Chevrolet - Element EX - Wiring Diagram - 2003 - 2004

Page 10007 Wire Color Coding Distinct Of Circuit By Wire Base Color All wires have color-coded insulation. Wires belonging to a system's main harness will have a single color. Wires belonging to a system's sub-circuits will have a colored stripe. Striped wires use the codes found in the chart to show wire size and colors. Abbreviations are used to indicate wire color within a circuit diagram. Wire Color Abbreviations The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics: WHT................................... White YEL................................... Yellow BLK................................... Black BLU................................... Blue GRN................................... Green RED................................... Red ORN................................... Orange PNK................................... Pink BRN................................... Brown GRY................................... Gray PUR................................... Purple LT BLU................................... Light Blue LT GRN................................... Light Green The wire insulation has one color or one color with another color stripe. The second color is the stripe. How to Identify Connector Terminals How to Identify Connector Terminals Page 4074 Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor: Description and Operation Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor The MAP sensor converts manifold absolute pressure into electrical signals to the ECM. Page 9697 Cavity Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity / terminal shown is # 6. Circuit Schematics Page 7653 Air Bag Control Module: Vehicle Damage Warnings SRS Unit Precautions - Be careful not to bump or impact the SRS unit whenever the ignition switch is ON (II), or for at least 3 minutes after the ignition switch is turned OFF. - During installation or replacement, be careful not to bump (by impact wrench, hammer, etc.) the area around the SRS unit. The airbags could accidentally deploy and cause damage or injury. - After a collision in which the airbags were deployed, replace the SRS unit. After a collision in which the airbags were not deployed, inspect for any damage or any deformation on the SRS unit. If there is any damage, replace the SRS unit. - Do not disassemble the SRS unit. - Turn the ignition switch OFF, disconnect the battery negative cable and wait at least 3 minutes before beginning installation or replacement of the SRS unit, and disconnection of the 18P connector. - Be sure the SRS unit is installed securely with the mounting bolts torqued to 9.8 N.m (1.0 kgf.m, 7.2 lbf.ft). - Do not spill water or oil on the SRS unit, and keep it away from dust. - Store the SRS unit in a cool (less than 104 °F/40 °C) and dry (less than 80% relative humidity, no moisture) area. Page 2614 Answer: For IMA battery prices and availability, go to the iN home page and select Parts, select Parts Locator, then select Parts Availability. Enter the part number found at the bottom the IMA Battery Order form in line 1, enter the quantity desired, then select Submit. The IMA battery price, availability, and shipping information is displayed in the Parts Availability field. Question: How can I track my order once I submit it? Answer: To track your order, go to the IMA VIN Inquiry Acknowledgement screen on the iN. 1. From the iN main menu, select SERVICE. 2. Select Remanufactured Parts. 3. Select Order Status Inquiry. 4. Enter a date in the All Orders Accepted Since box, make sure the Order Status Inquiry for Corel VIN is selected, then select Submit. The IMA VIN INQUIRY ACKNOWLEDGEMENT screen appears, listing orders by VIN, ORD REF (Order Reference), STAT (Status), SHIP DATE, SHIPPER, and PART NUMBER. The status of your order is displayed by one of these codes: Codes generated by RPO Tech Line: ^ PEND - Your order is waiting to be processed by RPO Tech Line. ^ HOLD - Your order is waiting for additional dealer diagnosis. ^ ERR - Your order caused an error; call (select option 2). ^ DENY - RPO Tech Line denied your order; call (select option 2). ^ APPR - RPO Tech Line approved your order and forwarded it to AHM Parts. Codes generated by AHM Parts Operations: ^ BO/TOS - Your order is on back order or is temporarily out of stock. ^ CAN/BOC - Your order has been cancelled; contact your assigned parts center. ^ ALO/BOA - Your order has been allocated, but not released for shipment. ^ REL/BOR - Your order has been picked, packed, and shipped. ^ INV - Your order has been invoiced to your dealer parts account. Page 2880 130. Motor Commutation Sensor Page 1981 Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution diagram set to get a more detailed picture of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Page 5789 Wire Color Abbreviations Page 3721 31. Left Front Side of Engine Compartment Page 3358 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. Page 3337 Diodes How to Identify Wiring Color-Coded Insulation Wire Color Page 1033 Dash Lights Brightness Controller - Circuit Diagram Page 7362 Wires ATF Level Check Fluid - CVT: Service and Repair ATF Level Check ATF Level Check NOTE: Keep all foreign particles out of the transmission. 1. Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature (the radiator fan comes on). 2. Park the vehicle on level ground, and turn the engine off. 3. Remove the dipstick (yellow loop) (A) from the transmission, and wipe it with a clean cloth. 4. Insert the dipstick back into the transmission. 5. Remove the dipstick and check the fluid level in 60 - 90 seconds after the engines is turned off. It should be between the upper mark (A) and lower mark (B) on the Hot portion of the gauge (C). Do not check the fluid level when the engine is cold. NOTE: Some dipsticks do not have HOT and Cold printed on them. 6. If the level is below the lower mark, check for fluid leaks at the transmission, hose and line joints, and cooler lines. 7. if the level exceeds the upper mark (A), drain the fluid for proper level. 8. Pour the recommended fluid into the opening of the dipstick pipe (A) to bring it to the upper mark. Always use genuine Honda ATF-Z1 Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF). Using a non-Honda ATF can affect shift quality. Page 5334 7. install the slave cylinder (A), then connect the clutch line (B). NOTE: Make sure the boot is installed on the slave cylinder. 8. Install the throttle drum cover. 9. Bleed the clutch hydraulic system. NOTE: Be careful not to damage the slave cylinder by overtightening the bleeder screw. ^ Attach a hose to the bleeder screw (A), and suspend the hose in a container of brake fluid. ^ Make sure there is an adequate supply of fluid at the clutch master cylinder, then slowly pump the clutch pedal until no more bubbles appear at the bleeder hose. ^ Tighten the bleeder screw to 8 Nm (0.8 kgf-m, 5.8 lbf.ft); do not overtighten it. ^ Refill the clutch master cylinder with fluid when done. ^ Always use only Honda DOT 3 brake fluid. ^ Confirm clutch operation, and check for leaking fluid. Page 4900 Terminals - "T" Shielding Switches Fuses Diagram Information and Instructions Relay Box: Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System Terminal Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown below is #6. Page 4172 Page 479 Engine Control Module: Service and Repair Monitors, Trips, and/or Drive Cycle (Readiness Codes) How to Set Readiness Codes Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) Indication (In relation to Readiness Codes) The vehicle has certain "readiness codes" that are part of the on-board diagnostics for the emissions systems. If the vehicle's battery has been disconnected or gone dead, if the DTCs have been cleared, or if the ECM has been reset, these codes are reset. In some states, part of the emissions testing is to make sure these codes are set to complete. If all of them are not set to complete, the vehicle may fail the emission test, or the test cannot be finished. To check if the readiness codes are complete, turn the ignition switch ON (II), but do not start the engine. The MIL will come on for 15 - 20 seconds. If it then goes off, the readiness codes are complete. If it blinks several times, one or more readiness codes are not complete. To set readiness codes from incomplete to complete, do the procedure for the appropriate code. Catalytic Converter Monitor and Readiness Code NOTE: - Do not turn the ignition switch off during the procedure. - All readiness codes are cleared when the battery is disconnected or when the ECM is cleared with the OBD II scan tool or Honda PGM Tester. - Low ambient temperatures or excessive stop-and-go traffic may increase the drive time needed to switch the readiness code from incomplete to complete. - The readiness code will not switch to complete until all the enable criteria are met. - If a fault in the secondary HO2S system caused the MIL to come on, the readiness code cannot be set to complete until you correct the fault. Enable Criteria - ECT at 158 °F (70 °C) or higher. - Intake air temperature (IAT) at 20 °F (-7 °C) or higher. - Vehicle speed is steady, and vehicle speed sensor (VSS) reads more then 25 mph (40 km/h). Procedure 1. Connect the scan tool to the vehicle's data link connector (DLC), and bring up the tool's generic OBD II mode. 2. Start the engine. 3. Test-drive the vehicle under stop-and-go conditions with short periods of steady cruise. After about 5 miles (8 km), the readiness code should switch from incomplete to complete. 4. If the readiness code is still set to incomplete, check for a temporary DTC. If there is no DTC, one or more of the enable criteria were probably not met; repeat the procedure. Evaporative Emissions (EVAP) Control System Monitor and Readiness code NOTE: - All readiness code are cleared when the battery is disconnected or when the ECM is cleared with the OBD II scan tool or Honda PGM Tester. - The enable criteria must be repeated if the intake air temperature (IAT) drops lower then 36 °F (2 °C) from its value at engine start up. Enable Criteria - At engine start up, ECT and IAT are higher then 32 °F (0 °C), but lower then 95 °F (35 °C). - At engine start up, the ECT and IAT are within 12 °F (7 °C) of each other. Procedure 1. Connect the scan tool to the vehicle's data link connector (DLC), and bring up the tool's generic OBD II mode. 2. Start the engine. 3. Test-drive the vehicle under stop-and-go conditions with short periods of steady cruise. After about 2.5 miles (4 km), the readiness code should switch from incomplete to complete. 4. If the readiness code is still set to incomplete, check for a temporary DTC. If there is no DTC, one or more of the enable criteria were probably not met; repeat the procedure. Air Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor Monitor and Readiness Code NOTE: - Do not turn the ignition switch off during the procedure. - All readiness codes are cleared when the battery is disconnected or when the ECM is cleared with the OBD II scan tool or Honda PGM Tester. Enable Criteria - ECT at 140 °F (60 °C) or higher. Page 966 1. Right Side of Engine Compartment Page 8455 2003-04 Accord DX with dealer-installed security system 2003-04 Element with dealer-installed keyless entry system or security system 2004 Element EX with factory-installed keyless entry system or dealer-installed security system 2003-04 Pilot EX models with factory-installed security system* Programming the Transmitter NOTES: ^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased. ^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the programming mode. ^ You must complete steps 1-6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from exiting the programming mode. 1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter can be used for this step.) 3. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 4. Repeat steps 1, 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2. 5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode. 7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted the transmitter's code. 8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda using normal parts ordering procedures. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery. 91-93 Accord 5-D00R EX Testing and Inspection Radiator Cap: Testing and Inspection Test 1. Remove the radiator cap (A), wet its seal with engine coolant, then install it on the pressure tester (B) (commercially available). 2. Apply a pressure of 93 - 123 kPa (0.95 - 1.25 kgf/cm2, 14 18 psi). 3. Check for a drop in pressure. 4. If the pressure drops, replace the cap. Diagram Information and Instructions Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System Terminal Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown below is #6. Locations Starter Motor: Locations 15. Front Top of Transmission Page 8632 Power Trunk / Liftgate Lock Switch: Diagrams 42. Hatch Opener Switch 85. Hatch Key Cylinder Switch Specifications Component Locations Climate Control - Component Location Index Diagram Information and Instructions Brake Lamp: Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System Terminal Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown below is #6. Page 1348 Vehicle Speed Sensor: Description and Operation Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) The VSS is driven by the differential. It generates a pulsed signal from an input of 5 volts. The number of pulses per minute increases/decreases with the speed of the vehicle. Page 8819 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Locations 6. Front of Engine Locations Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor: Locations PGM-FI System - Component Location Index Page 3257 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. Service and Repair Hood Latch: Service and Repair Hood Latch Replacement NOTE: Take care not to kink the cable. Replacement 1. Remove the hood latch as shown. 2. Install the hood latch in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - Apply multipurpose grease to the hood latch. - Make sure the hood opener cable is connected properly. - Adjust the hood latch alignment. - Make sure the hood locks securely. Grease Application 1. Remove the latch cover, and apply multipurpose grease to each location of the hood latch indicated by the arrows. Page 5833 Brake Pad: Service and Repair Front Inspection and Replacement CAUTION: Frequent inhalation of brake pad dust, regardless of material composition, could be hazardous to your health. ^ Avoid breathing dust particles. ^ Never use an air hose or brush to clean brake assemblies. Use an OHSA-Approved vacuum cleaner. NOTICE: To avoid damage, do not strike aluminum parts with a metal hammer. If necessary, tap gently with a plastic tipped hammer. NOTE: Nuts and bolts with the [star] mark are special corrosion-resistant Dacro fasteners. Use the same type if replacement is necessary. Replacement 1. Remove the brake hose bracket mounting bolts (A) from the damper. 2. Remove the bolt (B) and pivot the caliper (C) up out of the way. Check the hose, pin boot, and sleeve boots for damage and deterioration. 3. Remove the pad shim (A), pad retainers (B), and inner (C) and outer (D) pad. 4. Clean the caliper thoroughly; the caliper is aluminum, check for cracks. 5. Check the brake disc for damage and cracks. Locations Camshaft Position Sensor: Locations PGM-FI System - Component Location Index Page 3194 172. ECM Page 4876 EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 9339 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. Page 3187 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. Page 1850 Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box Page 566 EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 9106 Parking Brake Warning Switch: Diagrams 13. Parking Brake Switch 13. Parking Brake Switch Page 8840 Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Service Precautions Wiring Precautions Wiring Precautions SRS wiring can be identified by special yellow outer covering (except the SRS indicator light circuit). Never attempt to modify, splice, or repair SRS wiring. If there is an open or damage in SRS wiring, replace the harness. Be sure to install the harness wires so that they are not pinched, or interfere with other parts. Make sure all SRS ground locations are clean, and grounds are securely fastened for optimum metal-to-metal contact. Poor grounding can cause intermittent problems that are difficult to diagnose. Page 4530 Cavity Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity / terminal shown is # 6. Circuit Schematics Page 6756 The steering wheel offset gauge is a sticker that attaches to the steering wheel and the steering column cover. Place the sticker on the steering wheel when the steering wheel is straight. When you test-drive the vehicle, you can read how many millimeters the steering wheel is off-center. NOTE: If the vehicle is pulling, repairing the pull may correct the steering wheel offset. Page 9588 Connectors - "C" Page 353 Page 6778 3. Loosen the inner locknut (A) while holding the tie-rod arm (B), and loosen the outer locknut (C) while holding the tie-rod end (D). 4. Turn the adjusting bolt (E) until the toe is correct. 5. After adjusting, tighten the locknuts while holding the tie-rod arm or tie-rod end. Make sure the arrow (A) on the tie-rod arm (B) and the aligning mark (C) on the tie-rod end (D) are in line, viewing from the wheelhouse side along the axial direction of the tie-rod, on both right and left side of the vehicle. Make sure the toe setting does not change. Rear Toe Inspection Use commercially-available computerized four wheel alignment equipment to measure wheel alignment (caster, camber, toe, and turning angle). Follow the equipment manufacturer's instructions. 1. Release the parking brake. 2. Check the toe. If it is not within the specification, check for bent or damaged suspension components. Rear toe-in: 3 ± 3 mm (1/8 ± 1/8 inch) Turning Angle Inspection Use commercially-available computerized four wheel alignment equipment to measure wheel alignment (caster, camber, toe, and turning angle). Follow the equipment manufacturer's instructions. 1. Turn the steering wheel fully to the right and left while applying the brake, and check the turning angles of both front wheels. If the turning angle is not within the specification or the inward turning angles differ between the right and left side, go to step 2. Turning angle: Inward: 40°00' ± 2° Outward: 33°00' (reference) 2. Check the toe. If it is correct, but the turning angle is not within the specification, check for bent or damaged suspension components. Page 7782 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. Page 9461 Terminals - "T" Shielding Switches Fuses Page 945 47. In-car Temperature Sensor Page 595 Wire Color Abbreviations Page 552 All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416 etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector or by a capital letter (A, B, C etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Connector Views that shows the connector terminals wire colors connector cavity numbers and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints shown on diagram [8] . Except for the DLC (data link connector) disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554 for example means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Page 7596 Solar Sensor: Testing and Inspection Sunlight Sensor Test Turn the ignition switch ON (II). Measure the voltage between the terminals with the (+) probe on the No. 1 terminal and the (-) probe on the No. 2 terminal with the 2P connector connected. The voltage reading will not change under the light of a flashlight or a fluorescent lamp. Voltage should be: - 3.6 - 3.7 V or more with the sensor out of direct sunlight. - 3.6 - 3.5 V or less with the sensor in direct sunlight. Page 9928 Combination Switch: Service and Repair Combination Light Switch Test/Replacement 1. Remove the steering column covers. 2. Disconnect the 16P connector (B) from the combination light switch (A). 3. Remove the two screws, then pull out the switch. 4. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table. If the continuity check is not as specified, replace the switch. Page 7272 Terminals - "T" Shielding Switches Fuses Page 9386 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 3651 Page 6280 Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box Part 2 Page 6678 Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution diagram set to get a more detailed picture of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Page 68 Power Door Locks - Component Location Index Page 7567 65. Behind Glove Box Page 6066 3. Remove the battery module switch cover (two bolts), then remove the locking cover from the switch. 4. Flip the battery module switch to OFF, then reinstall the locking cover. 5. Wait at least 5 minutes for the capacitors in the system to discharge. 6. Remove the rear clips from the middle bulkhead carpet. Page 274 174. Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box Part 2 Page 8874 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 6344 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: Page 9362 Backup Lamp Switch: Testing and Inspection Reverse Position Switch Signal Circuit Troubleshooting M/T model 1. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). Are the back-up lights on when the shift lever is not in reverse position? YES - Inspect the reverse position switch. NO - Go to step 2. 2. Shift the transmission to reverse gear. Do the back-up lights come on? YES - Go to step 3. NO - Go to step 4. 3. Measure voltage between the ECM connector terminal B24 and B20. Is there battery voltage? YES - The reverse position switch signal is OK. NO - Repair open in the wire between the ECM (B24) and the reverse position switch. 4. Inspect the No.27 (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box. Is the fuse OK? YES - Repair open in the wire between the brake switch and the No.27 (7.5 A) fuse. Inspect the reverse position switch. NO - Repair short in the wire between the ECM (B24) and the No.27 (7.5 A) fuse. Replace the No.27 (7.5 A) fuse. Component Locations Brake Fluid Level Sensor/Switch: Component Locations Gauges - Component Location Index Page 6459 Relay Box: Electrical Diagrams Connector-to-Fuse/Relay Box Index Image 6-1 Page 1944 10. Remove the cotter pin (A) from the lower arm ball joint, and remove the castle nut (B). 11. Remove the lower arm ball joint from the knuckle using the special tool. NOTE: Make sure you position the ball joint remover jaw on the bushing (D) and not on the aluminum surface of the knuckle. 12. Loosen the damper pinch bolts (A) while holding the nuts (B), and remove the bolts and nuts. 13. Pull the knuckle off of the driveshaft while holding the outboard joint (c), and remove the knuckle from the damper. NOTE: Do not pull the driveshaft end outward. The driveshaft joint may come off. 14. Separate the hub (A) from the hub bearing unit (B) using the special tool and a press. Hold onto the hub to keep it from falling when pressed clear. Page 1109 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: - Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest OHMS" range. Page 7201 24. Blower Motor Page 4041 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. Page 4854 Wires Page 4504 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. Page 1139 Parking Brake Warning Switch: Testing and Inspection Parking Brake Switch Test 1. Remove the console, and disconnect the connector (A) from the switch (B). 2. Check for continuity between the positive terminal and body ground: ^ With the brake lever up, there should be continuity. ^ With the brake lever down, there should be no continuity. Page 6475 Connectors - "C" Page 4613 4. Disconnect the vacuum hoses (A) from the EVAP canister (B), then plug the ports with caps (C). 5. Disconnect the vacuum hose (D) from the EVAP canister vent shut valve (E), and connect a vacuum pump to the vacuum hose. 6. Pump the vacuum pump 80 times. - If the vacuum holds, go to step 7. - If the vacuum does not hold, go to step 9. 7. Connect a second vacuum pump to the fuel tank vapor signal tube (A). 8. Apply vacuum (1 pump) to the fuel tank vapor signal tube (A), then check the vacuum on the pump in step 6. - If the vacuum holds, replace the fuel tank vapor control valve. - If the vacuum is released, the fuel tank vapor control valve is OK. 9. Disconnect the fuel tank vapor recirculation tube from the EVAP canister, then cap the port on the canister. Reapply vacuum (80 pumps). - If the vacuum holds, replace the fuel tank vapor control valve. - If the vacuum does not hold, inspect the EVAP canister vent shut valve O-ring. If the O-ring is OK, replace the EVAP canister and repeat step 4. Locations Steering Control Module: Locations Dash Board View Page 147 All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416 etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector or by a capital letter (A, B, C etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Connector Views that shows the connector terminals wire colors connector cavity numbers and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints shown on diagram [8] . Except for the DLC (data link connector) disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554 for example means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Service and Repair Front Bumper: Service and Repair Front Bumper Removal/Installation NOTE: - Have an assistant help you remove and install the front bumper. - Take care not to scratch the front bumper and body. - Put on gloves to protect your hands. 1. Remove the front inner fender from each side as necessary. 2. Remove the front bumper as shown. 3. Install the bumper in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - If equipped, make sure the outside air temperature sensor connector is plugged in properly. - Make sure the front bumper engages the hooks of the center and corner upper beams securely. - Check for damaged or stress-whitened clips, and replace them with new ones. Page 9763 Number. See: Diagrams/Connector Views/Connector Views By View Number Page 4515 Variable Valve Timing Pressure Switch: Locations 6. Front of Engine Page 5858 6. If the brake lining thickness is less than the service limit, replace the brake shoes as a set. 7. Check the hub bearing for smooth operation. If it requires servicing, replace it. 8. Measure the inside diameter of the brake drum with inside vernier calipers. Drum inside diameter: Standard: 179.9 - 180.0 mm (7.083 - 7.087 inch) Service limit: 181.0 mm (126 inch) 9. If the inside diameter of the brake drum is beyond the service limit, replace the brake drum. 10. Check the brake drum for scoring, grooves, cracks, and corrosion. Specifications Rocker Arm Assembly: Specifications For further information regarding this component and the system it is a part of, please refer to Cylinder Head Assembly; Service and Repair. Page 3210 ECM/PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector D (16P) Part 1 Recall 04V086000: Headlamp Switch/Connector Defect Headlamp Switch: Recalls Recall 04V086000: Headlamp Switch/Connector Defect DEFECT: On certain passenger vehicles, the low-beam terminal on the head light wire harness can overheat and could cause the low beams to fail without warning. An unexpected loss of low beams could result in a crash. REMEDY: Dealers will inspect the head light switch and coupler for signs of heat damage. If heat damage is present, the dealer will replace the switch and coupler. If no heat damage is present, the dealer will replace the head light switch and one mating pin in the coupler. The manufacturer has reported that owner notification was to begin on April 5, 2004 . Owners may contact Honda at 1-800-999-1009. Page 6116 12. Install the IPU lid. Torque the bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb-ft). 13. Reinstall the right side trunk shelf support. Torque the bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb-ft). 14. Remove the battery module switch locking cover, and flip the switch to ON. Reinstall the locking cover. 15. Reinstall the battery module switch cover. 16. Reinstall the cargo floor mat. 17. Remove the No.15 (40A) fuse (EPS control unit) from the under-hood fuse/relay box. 18. With the transmission in Neutral, and the clutch released on M/T models, start the engine. Hold it at 3,500 rpm until the IMA battery level indicator shows at least 50 percent charge. 19. Turn off the engine, and reinstall the No.15 fuse. Disclaimer Page 3949 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 10292 Wiper Switch: Testing and Inspection Wiper/Washer Switch Test/Replacement 1. Remove the steering column covers. 2. Disconnect the 14P connector (B) from the wiper/washer switch (A). 3. Remove the two screws, then pull out the switch. 4. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table. If the continuity is not as specified, replace the switch. Page 8961 Splices Components Ground - "G" Component Locations Heater Core Temperature Sensor / Switch: Component Locations Heating/Cooling Unit View Page 797 131. Power Mirror Switch Locations Wiper Switch: Locations Wipers/Washers - Component Location Index Page 7051 15. Press the wheel bearing inner race (A) out of the hub (B) using the special tool, a commercially available bearing separator (C), and a press. 16. Remove the splash guard (A) from the knuckle (B). 17. Remove the flange bolts (A), and remove the hub bearing unit (B) from the knuckle. 18. Wash the knuckle and hub thoroughly in high flash point solvent before reassembly. Page 10074 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. Page 1768 Add the recommended refrigerant oil in the amount listed if you replace any of the following parts. - To avoid contamination, do not return the oil to the container once dispensed, and never mix it with other refrigerant oils. - Immediately after using the oil, reinstall the cap on the container, and seal it to avoid moisture absorption. - Do not spill the refrigerant oil on the vehicle; it may damage the paint; if it gets on the paint, wash it off immediately. Page 6378 Wire Color Coding Distinct Of Circuit By Wire Base Color All wires have color-coded insulation. Wires belonging to a system's main harness will have a single color. Wires belonging to a system's sub-circuits will have a colored stripe. Striped wires use the codes found in the chart to show wire size and colors. Abbreviations are used to indicate wire color within a circuit diagram. Wire Color Abbreviations The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics: WHT................................... White YEL................................... Yellow BLK................................... Black BLU................................... Blue GRN................................... Green RED................................... Red ORN................................... Orange PNK................................... Pink BRN................................... Brown GRY................................... Gray PUR................................... Purple LT BLU................................... Light Blue LT GRN................................... Light Green The wire insulation has one color or one color with another color stripe. The second color is the stripe. How to Identify Connector Terminals How to Identify Connector Terminals Page 3308 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 1892 Fuse-to-Components Index Image 6-3 Service and Repair Front Door Weatherstrip: Service and Repair Door Seal and Door Weatherstrip Spacer Replacement NOTE: - Take care not to scratch the door. - Use a clip remover to remove the clips. 1. Remove these items: - Before removing the door upper seal, remove the door panel and door sash outer trim. - Before removing the door weatherstrip spacer, remove the door panel. 2. Remove the door upper seal, door still seal, and door weatherstrip spacer as shown. 3. Install the seals and spacer in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - Replace any damaged clips. - If the old upper seal and spacer are to be reinstalled, scrape off all traces of old butyl tapes, EPT sealer, and adhesive tape, then clean the upper seal and spacer surfaces with alcohol. Attach the new butyl tapes, EPT sealer, and adhesive tape to the door upper seal and door weatherstrip spacer. - Press the butyl tape and adhesive tape portions to make the adhesive stick. - Check for water leaks. - Test-drive and check for wind noise. Locations Page 7344 133. Climate Control Unit/Heater Control Panel Page 3136 DTC P0158 thru P0400 Page 6784 134. Under Right Side of Kick Panel (CVT) Locations Brake Booster Vacuum Sensor: Locations PGM-FI System - Component Location Index Page 6391 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Locations Intake Air Temperature Sensor: Locations PGM-FI System - Component Location Index Page 773 179. Disarm Switch (Honda Accessory) Page 6285 Fuse: Connector Locations Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box Page 3353 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: Page 9801 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 4931 5. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). Measure voltage between body ground and PGM-FI main relay (fuel pump) 4P connector terminal No.2, and between PGM-FI main relay (IGP) 4P connector terminal No.4. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 7. NO - Go to step 6. 6. Check for a blown No.2 (15 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box. Is the fuse blown? YES - Repair the short in the wire between PGM-FI main relay and the No.2 fuse. NO - Repair the open in the wire between the PGM-FI main relay and the No.2 (15 A) fuse. 7. Turn the ignition switch OFF, and disconnect ECM connector A (32P). 8. Check for continuity between PGM-FI main relay (fuel pump) 4P connector terminal No.3 and ECM connector terminal A15. Is there continuity? YES - Go to step 9. NO - Repair open in the wire between the PGM-FI main relay and the ECM (A15). 9. Reconnect ECM connector A (32P) and the PGM-FI main relay connectors. Page 732 116. PGM-FI Main Relay And A/T Reverse Relay (CVT) Locations 136. Right Side of Engine Compartment Locations Air Bag Control Module: Locations Relay And Control Unit Locations - Dashboard Page 6918 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. Page 4980 5. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). Measure voltage between body ground and PGM-FI main relay (fuel pump) 4P connector terminal No.2, and between PGM-FI main relay (IGP) 4P connector terminal No.4. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 7. NO - Go to step 6. 6. Check for a blown No.2 (15 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box. Is the fuse blown? YES - Repair the short in the wire between PGM-FI main relay and the No.2 fuse. NO - Repair the open in the wire between the PGM-FI main relay and the No.2 (15 A) fuse. 7. Turn the ignition switch OFF, and disconnect ECM connector A (32P). 8. Check for continuity between PGM-FI main relay (fuel pump) 4P connector terminal No.3 and ECM connector terminal A15. Is there continuity? YES - Go to step 9. NO - Repair open in the wire between the PGM-FI main relay and the ECM (A15). 9. Reconnect ECM connector A (32P) and the PGM-FI main relay connectors. Page 3933 Connectors - "C" Page 1186 First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 8463 The 1999-00 transmitter is not interchangeable with the 2001-04 transmitter. To tell them apart, look at the FCC ID on the back. 1999-00 - FCC ID: E4EG8DN 2001-04 - FCC ID: OUCG8D-440H-A* Programming the Transmitter NOTES: ^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased. ^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the programming mode. You must complete steps 1-6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from exiting the programming mode. 1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter can be used for this step.) 3. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 4. Repeat steps 1, 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2. 5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode. 7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted the transmitter's code. 8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda using normal parts ordering procedures. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery. 99-01 Prelude With Factory-Installed Keyless Entry System 1999-01 Prelude with factory-installed keyless entry system Page 4704 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. Page 8768 Splices Components Ground - "G" Page 6565 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Page 4263 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 5804 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 8379 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: Page 8917 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Locations Intake Air System - Component Location Index Specifications Oil Filter: Specifications After the rubber seal seats, tighten the oil filter clockwise with the special tool. Tighten: 7/8 turn clockwise. Tightening torque: 22 Nm (2.2 kgf.m, 16 ft. lbs.) Page 3954 EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Component Locations Heater Core Temperature Sensor / Switch: Component Locations Heating/Cooling Unit View Page 5410 Shift Interlock Switch: Service and Repair Park Pin Switch Replacement 1. Remove the front console. 2. Remove the A/T gear position indicator panel light, and remove the bulb (A) from the socket (B). 3. Separate the A/T gear position indicator panel from the shift lever bracket base (C). 4. Disconnect the park pin switch connector (D), and remove it from the bracket base. 5. Remove the park pin switch clamp (E) and the park pin switch (F). 6. Install the new park pin switch in the shift lever bracket base, and install the park pin switch clamp to secure it. 7. Install the removed parts in the reverse order of removal. Page 7595 62. Sunlight Sensor Locations Wipers/Washers - Component Location Index Page 1596 3. Loosen the inner locknut (A) while holding the tie-rod arm (B), and loosen the outer locknut (C) while holding the tie-rod end (D). 4. Turn the adjusting bolt (E) until the toe is correct. 5. After adjusting, tighten the locknuts while holding the tie-rod arm or tie-rod end. Make sure the arrow (A) on the tie-rod arm (B) and the aligning mark (C) on the tie-rod end (D) are in line, viewing from the wheelhouse side along the axial direction of the tie-rod, on both right and left side of the vehicle. Make sure the toe setting does not change. Rear Toe Inspection Use commercially-available computerized four wheel alignment equipment to measure wheel alignment (caster, camber, toe, and turning angle). Follow the equipment manufacturer's instructions. 1. Release the parking brake. 2. Check the toe. If it is not within the specification, check for bent or damaged suspension components. Rear toe-in: 3 ± 3 mm (1/8 ± 1/8 inch) Turning Angle Inspection Use commercially-available computerized four wheel alignment equipment to measure wheel alignment (caster, camber, toe, and turning angle). Follow the equipment manufacturer's instructions. 1. Turn the steering wheel fully to the right and left while applying the brake, and check the turning angles of both front wheels. If the turning angle is not within the specification or the inward turning angles differ between the right and left side, go to step 2. Turning angle: Inward: 40°00' ± 2° Outward: 33°00' (reference) 2. Check the toe. If it is correct, but the turning angle is not within the specification, check for bent or damaged suspension components. Symptom Related Diagnostic Procedures Radiator Cooling Fan Motor: Symptom Related Diagnostic Procedures Symptom Troubleshooting Index Before performing any troubleshooting procedures check: Fuses - Grounds - Cleanliness and tightness of all connectors Page 9604 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 8730 Cavity Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity / terminal shown is # 6. Circuit Schematics Locations Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Locations Relay And Control Unit Locations - Dashboard A/T - Vehicle Speed Sensor Installation Precautions Transmission Speed Sensor: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Vehicle Speed Sensor Installation Precautions Install VSS Properly to Avoid Reman A/T Damage We can't emphasize enough how important it is to follow, to the letter, the installation instructions that come with a reman A/T. These instructions help ensure that you avoid damaging the A/T and score a successful repair. This is particularly true when it comes to installing the vehicle speed sensor (VSS). Step 6 of the instructions tells you to make sure its gear is fully engaged and the VSS is fully seated before you tighten the retaining bolt. If you don't install the VSS properly, the speed sensor gear will get stripped and the A/T will be seriously damaged. So don't take risks with your customer's vehicle. Always follow these instructions to the letter. You can rest assured you're doing the job right. Page 7244 Compressor Clutch: Service and Repair Compressor Clutch Overhaul Special Tool Required A/C clutch holder, Robinair 10204, Kent-Moore J37872, or Honda Tool and equipment KMT-J33939; commercially available. 1. Remove the center nut (A) while holding the armature plate with the commercially available A/C clutch holder (B). 2. Remove the armature plate (A) and shim(s) (B), taking care not to lose the shim(s). If the clutch needs adjustment, increase or decrease the number and thickness of shims as necessary, then reinstall the armature plate, and recheck its clearance. NOTE: The shims are available in four thickness: 0.1 mm, 0.2 mm, 0.4 mm, and 0.5 mm. 3. If you are replacing the field coil, remove the snap ring (A) with snap ring pliers, then remove the rotor pulley (B). Be careful not to damage the rotor pulley or the compressor. Campaign - Integrated Motor Assist Controller Update Technical Service Bulletin # 01-102 Date: 011127 Campaign - Integrated Motor Assist Controller Update 01-102 November 27, 2001 Applies To: 2000-01 Insight with M/T - See VEHICLES AFFECTED Product Update: IMA Controller Modification BACKGROUND The IMA (Integrated Motor Assist) system supplies power to various 12-volt loads on the vehicle (lights, radio, windows, etc.) and assists the engine to improve vehicle performance. In very cold weather, power demands on the IMA battery module can exceed output, causing permanent damage to the battery module. VEHICLES AFFECTED Not all 2000-01 Insights with M/T are affected by this product update. Only vehicles that are registered and normally driven in cold weather areas are affected. Before you begin, verify that the vehicle is registered in one of the states affected by the update (see the map). Then check for vehicle eligibility by doing one of the following. ^ Verify that the customer has a notification letter. ^ Check the vehicle's VIN on your campaign responsibility report. ^ Do a VIN status inquiry on DCS. CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION All owners of affected vehicles will be sent a notification of this product update. An example of the customer notification. CORRECTIVE ACTION Replace the battery condition monitor (BCM) module and the motor control module (MCM). PARTS INFORMATION Page 6029 Clutch Switch: Description and Operation Clutch pedal position Switch (M/T model) The clutch pedal position switch signals the ECM when the clutch pedal is pressed. Page 6671 Splices Components Ground - "G" Page 8752 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Page 181 4. Make these input tests at the connector. - If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system. - If all the input tests prove OK, the control unit must be faulty; replace it. Page 9561 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. Page 829 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 4320 First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 7461 Refrigerant: Fluid Type Specifications Refrigerant Type HFC-134a (R-134a) Page 8096 Immobilizer System Image 132 Specifications Crankshaft Main Bearing: Specifications Crankshaft Runout Out-of-Round and Taper Page 8980 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Page 1169 Wire Color Abbreviations Recall - Emissions/ECM Replacement Technical Service Bulletin # 02-081 Date: 021217 Recall - Emissions/ECM Replacement 02-081 December 17, 2002 Applies To: 2000 Insight - ALL 2001 Insight with M/T - ALL Emissions Recall: Insight ECM BACKGROUND The ECM does not correctly identify all malfunctions of the air/fuel ratio sensor (sensor 1). Because of this, the vehicle does not meet state and federal emissions regulations. CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION All owners of affected vehicles will be mailed a notification of this campaign. The customer notification letter is shown in this service bulletin. CORRECTIVE ACTION Replace the ECM. After you replace the ECM, reinitialize the immobilizer system, and do the idle learn procedure. PARTS INFORMATION WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION Operation Number: 122124 Flat Rate Time: 1.0 hour Failed Part: P/N 37820-PHM-A01 H/C 6344626 Defect Code: 5BL Contention Code: L78 Skill Level: Repair Technician REPAIR PROCEDURE NOTE: Make sure you have all of your customer's keys. 1. Carefully remove the passenger's door sill trim. If you break any of the trim clips, replace them (P/N 91560-S06-003, H/C 6353502). Page 575 Fuel Pump Relay: Description and Operation PGM-FI Main Relay The PGM-FI main relay contains two separate relays. One is energized whenever the ignition is on which supplies battery voltage to the ECM, power to the fuel injectors, and power for the fuel cut relay. The fuel cut relay is energized to supply power to the fuel pump for 2 seconds when the ignition is switched ON (II), and when the engine is running. Hybrid System - IMA Battery Module Warranty Extension Technical Service Bulletin # 06-057 Date: 110316 Hybrid System - IMA Battery Module Warranty Extension 06-057 March 16, 2011 Applies To: 2000-04 Insight - See VEHICLES AFFECTED Warranty Extension: Insight IMA Battery Module (Supersedes 06-057, dated October 18, 2007, to revise the information marked by the black bars and asterisks) *REVISION SUMMARY Under WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION, some operation number and flat rate time information was changed.* BACKGROUND NOTE: Because of a class action settlement, the warranty extension coverage for the IMA battery module on 2002-04 Insights purchased or leased between April 13, 2002, and November 7, 2006, is now 10 years or 157,500 miles, whichever occurs first. For more information, refer to Service Bulletin 06-085 Warranty Extension: Vehicle Warranty Mileage. To ensure continued reliability with the IMA system, American Honda is announcing an IMA battery module warranty extension for certain 2000-04 Insights. The IMA battery module is now covered for 10 years or 150,000 miles, whichever occurs first. This warranty extension applies to the 43 states not already covered by Service Bulletin 06-027, Warranty Extension: IMA Battery VEHICLES AFFECTED This warranty extension affects 2000-04 Insights registered in the shaded states on this map*: *2000-04 Insights registered in Arizona, California, Colorado, Florida, Hawaii, Nevada, and Texas are covered by Service Bulletin 06-027, Warranty Extension: IMA Battery. CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION Owners of affected vehicles within the 43 affected states will receive a notification of this warranty extension. An example of the warranty extension notification is at the end of this service bulletin. To verify warranty extension eligibility, you must do a VIN status inquiry. CORRECTIVE ACTION Replace the IMA battery module if it has failed. In addition, replace the battery condition monitor and the motor control module on 2000-01 models or, on 2002-04 models, replace the battery condition monitor only. Specifications Page 3906 ECM/PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector D (16P) Part 1 Page 5452 Shift Interlock Switch: Service and Repair Park Pin Switch Replacement 1. Remove the front console. 2. Remove the A/T gear position indicator panel light, and remove the bulb (A) from the socket (B). 3. Separate the A/T gear position indicator panel from the shift lever bracket base (C). 4. Disconnect the park pin switch connector (D), and remove it from the bracket base. 5. Remove the park pin switch clamp (E) and the park pin switch (F). 6. Install the new park pin switch in the shift lever bracket base, and install the park pin switch clamp to secure it. 7. Install the removed parts in the reverse order of removal. Page 7780 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. Page 9851 116. PGM-FI Main Relay And A/T Reverse Relay (CVT) Page 6314 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: Page 6988 10. Remove the cotter pin (A) from the lower arm ball joint, and remove the castle nut (B). 11. Remove the lower arm ball joint from the knuckle using the special tool. NOTE: Make sure you position the ball joint remover jaw on the bushing (D) and not on the aluminum surface of the knuckle. 12. Loosen the damper pinch bolts (A) while holding the nuts (B), and remove the bolts and nuts. 13. Pull the knuckle off of the driveshaft while holding the outboard joint (c), and remove the knuckle from the damper. NOTE: Do not pull the driveshaft end outward. The driveshaft joint may come off. 14. Separate the hub (A) from the hub bearing unit (B) using the special tool and a press. Hold onto the hub to keep it from falling when pressed clear. Page 7693 5. After installing the SRS unit, confirm proper system operation: Turn the ignition switch ON (II); the SRS indicator should come on for about 6 seconds and then go off. Page 447 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Page 1993 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. A/C - Heater Blows Cold Air/A/C Blows Hot Air Heater Control Valve Cable: Technical Service Bulletins A/C - Heater Blows Cold Air/A/C Blows Hot Air Heater Blows Cold Air; A/C Blows Warm Air NOTE: This article applies to all A/C-equipped Honda models that use a heater valve cable. Got a vehicle in your shop that blows cold air from the heater or warm air from the A/C? The problem could just be the heater valve cable has slipped off the heater valve arm. There's a real easy fix for this problem. Slip the heater valve cable back onto the heater valve arm. Then cut yourself a 10 mm length of 3.5 mm vacuum hose (P/N 95005-35008-10M, H/C 2325058), and slide it onto the arm. This holds the cable on the arm nice and snug so it won't slip off. Page 2402 5. If spark plugs need to be replaced, select the spark plugs according to the designation on the cylinder head and the table shown. 6. Apply a small quantity of anti-seize compound to the plug threads, and screw the plugs into the cylinder head finger-tight. The torque them to 23 N.m (2.3 kgf.m,17 lbf.ft). NOTE: If a spark plug is to be reused, use it in the cylinder where the plug was originally located. Page 9920 Brake Light Switch: Diagrams 185. Idle Stop Switch (CVT) Page 5644 116. PGM-FI Main Relay And A/T Reverse Relay (CVT) Page 4695 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 9081 NO - Repair open in the wire between the PGM-FI main relay and G101. 30. Measure voltage between body ground and ECM connector terminals B1 and B9 individually. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 37. NO - Go to step 31. 31. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 32. Remove the PGM-FI main relay (IGP). 33. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 34. Measure voltage between PGM-FI main relay (IGP) 4P connector terminal No.2 and body ground. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 35. NO - Repair open in the wire between the No.7 (15 A) fuse and the PGM-FI main relay (IGP). 35. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 36. Check for continuity between PGM-FI main relay (IGP) 4P connector terminal No.1 and ECM connector terminals B1 and B9 individually. Is there continuity? Page 6476 Splices Components Ground - "G" Page 6407 Connector-to-Fuse/Relay Box Index Image 6-4 Page 7369 Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow from power at the top of the diagram to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another for example is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors Page 5014 First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 9824 Parking Lamp: Diagnostic Aids Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Page 8665 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. Page 3812 DTC P0979 thru P1193 Page 6231 Wires Locations Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor: Locations EVAP System - Component Location Index 128. Right Side of Fuel Tank Page 3912 Engine Control Module: Service and Repair Monitors, Trips, and/or Drive Cycle (Readiness Codes) How to Set Readiness Codes Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) Indication (In relation to Readiness Codes) The vehicle has certain "readiness codes" that are part of the on-board diagnostics for the emissions systems. If the vehicle's battery has been disconnected or gone dead, if the DTCs have been cleared, or if the ECM has been reset, these codes are reset. In some states, part of the emissions testing is to make sure these codes are set to complete. If all of them are not set to complete, the vehicle may fail the emission test, or the test cannot be finished. To check if the readiness codes are complete, turn the ignition switch ON (II), but do not start the engine. The MIL will come on for 15 - 20 seconds. If it then goes off, the readiness codes are complete. If it blinks several times, one or more readiness codes are not complete. To set readiness codes from incomplete to complete, do the procedure for the appropriate code. Catalytic Converter Monitor and Readiness Code NOTE: - Do not turn the ignition switch off during the procedure. - All readiness codes are cleared when the battery is disconnected or when the ECM is cleared with the OBD II scan tool or Honda PGM Tester. - Low ambient temperatures or excessive stop-and-go traffic may increase the drive time needed to switch the readiness code from incomplete to complete. - The readiness code will not switch to complete until all the enable criteria are met. - If a fault in the secondary HO2S system caused the MIL to come on, the readiness code cannot be set to complete until you correct the fault. Enable Criteria - ECT at 158 °F (70 °C) or higher. - Intake air temperature (IAT) at 20 °F (-7 °C) or higher. - Vehicle speed is steady, and vehicle speed sensor (VSS) reads more then 25 mph (40 km/h). Procedure 1. Connect the scan tool to the vehicle's data link connector (DLC), and bring up the tool's generic OBD II mode. 2. Start the engine. 3. Test-drive the vehicle under stop-and-go conditions with short periods of steady cruise. After about 5 miles (8 km), the readiness code should switch from incomplete to complete. 4. If the readiness code is still set to incomplete, check for a temporary DTC. If there is no DTC, one or more of the enable criteria were probably not met; repeat the procedure. Evaporative Emissions (EVAP) Control System Monitor and Readiness code NOTE: - All readiness code are cleared when the battery is disconnected or when the ECM is cleared with the OBD II scan tool or Honda PGM Tester. - The enable criteria must be repeated if the intake air temperature (IAT) drops lower then 36 °F (2 °C) from its value at engine start up. Enable Criteria - At engine start up, ECT and IAT are higher then 32 °F (0 °C), but lower then 95 °F (35 °C). - At engine start up, the ECT and IAT are within 12 °F (7 °C) of each other. Procedure 1. Connect the scan tool to the vehicle's data link connector (DLC), and bring up the tool's generic OBD II mode. 2. Start the engine. 3. Test-drive the vehicle under stop-and-go conditions with short periods of steady cruise. After about 2.5 miles (4 km), the readiness code should switch from incomplete to complete. 4. If the readiness code is still set to incomplete, check for a temporary DTC. If there is no DTC, one or more of the enable criteria were probably not met; repeat the procedure. Air Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor Monitor and Readiness Code NOTE: - Do not turn the ignition switch off during the procedure. - All readiness codes are cleared when the battery is disconnected or when the ECM is cleared with the OBD II scan tool or Honda PGM Tester. Enable Criteria - ECT at 140 °F (60 °C) or higher. Page 3693 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 502 All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416 etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector or by a capital letter (A, B, C etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Connector Views that shows the connector terminals wire colors connector cavity numbers and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints shown on diagram [8] . Except for the DLC (data link connector) disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554 for example means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Page 4957 In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locater) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: - Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. Page 8294 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. Page 6719 Defect Code: 07406 Symptom Code: 03602 Skill Level: Repair Technician Diagnostic Trouble Code: To create the 15-digit DTC, see the applicable repair procedure. Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. TOOL DESCRIPTIONS The holding force gauge measures the amount of pull on the vehicle. It is a bracket that counts as one weight, plus five removable weights. During the test-drive, attach the bracket and the weights to the steering wheel on the side opposite the pulling direction. For example, if the vehicle pulls to the right, attach the bracket and weights to the left side of the steering wheel. Start with the maximum amount of weight on the steering wheel, and remove the weights until the vehicle drives in a straight line. When recording the pull on the worksheet, write down the direction of the pull (lefi or right) and the number of weights required to balance the pull (one through six). For example, if you have the bracket and two weights on the steering wheel, then record this as three weights. NOTE: The bracket counts as one weight. Page 3162 18. Remove the EPS fuse from the under-hood fusel relay box. 19. With the transmission in neutral and the clutch released, run the engine at 3,500 rpm until the battery level indicator shows at least 50 percent charge. 20. Turn off the engine, then install the EPS fuse. 21. Enter the radio station presets, and set the clock. 22. Center-punch a completion mark above the sixth character of the engine compartment VIN. Page 3937 Wire Color Coding Distinct Of Circuit By Wire Base Color All wires have color-coded insulation. Wires belonging to a system's main harness will have a single color. Wires belonging to a system's sub-circuits will have a colored stripe. Striped wires use the codes found in the chart to show wire size and colors. Abbreviations are used to indicate wire color within a circuit diagram. Wire Color Abbreviations The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics: WHT................................... White YEL................................... Yellow BLK................................... Black BLU................................... Blue GRN................................... Green RED................................... Red ORN................................... Orange PNK................................... Pink BRN................................... Brown GRY................................... Gray PUR................................... Purple LT BLU................................... Light Blue LT GRN................................... Light Green The wire insulation has one color or one color with another color stripe. The second color is the stripe. How to Identify Connector Terminals How to Identify Connector Terminals Locations Canister Purge Control Valve: Locations EVAP System - Component Location Index 13. Middle of Engine Page 5526 16. Unwind the boot band tool, and cut off the excess free end of the band to leave a 5 - 10 mm (0.2 - 0.4 inch) tail protruding from the clip. 17. Bend the band end (A) by tapping it down with a hammer. NOTE: Make sure the band and clip do not interfere with anything and the band does not move. - Remove any grease remaining on the surrounding surfaces 18. Install the new set ring. Outboard Joint Side: Starting System - Unable To Key In Ignition Switch Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: Technical Service Bulletins Starting System - Unable To Key In Ignition Switch Can't Turn Ignition Switch? Check for Locked Steering Got a service customer complaining he or she can't turn the ignition switch to start the engine? The reason could just be the steering column lock pin is engaged with the front wheels turned. Here's what typically happens: Some folks use the steering wheel to help support themselves while climbing in or out of the vehicle. This is very common among elderly or disabled drivers. Doing this turns the front wheels, which twists the tires against the ground. The twisted tires apply torque to the steering column. With the ignition switch in LOCK (0), the steering column lock pin is engaged. But the applied torque on the steering column binds the lock pin, making it tough to turn the ignition switch. The ignition switch won't turn to ON (II) if the lock pin isn't disengaged from the steering column. Tell your customer there's nothing wrong with the ignition switch itself. All he or she needs to do is turn the steering wheel from side to side while turning the switch. This usually releases the lock pin so the engine can be started. In some cases, though, your customer may need to give a good tug on the wheel. This could easily happen when parking on a hill and the wheels are turned sharply before the engine is shut off. Page 1389 Crankshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair Replacement 1. Disconnect the CKP sensor connector, then remove the CKP sensor (A). 2. Install the CKP sensor using a new O-ring (B). Page 4040 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. Page 4124 PARTS INFORMATION Engine Control Module: P/N 06380-PHM-A00, H/C 6441117 WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Carefully remove the passenger's side door sill trim. 2. Remove the two carpet hold-down clips on the door sill. 3. Remove the carpet hold-down clip in the passenger's footwell under the glove box. Pull back the carpet. 4. Remove the ECM cover mounting nuts. 5. Pivot the lower edge of the ECM cover off the mounting studs. Lift the upper edge of the cover off the mounting studs, then pull the cover down and back so it clears the evaporator drain tube. 6. Remove the two bolts mounting the ECM to the cover. Disconnect the ECM connectors. 7. Install the new ECM in the reverse order of removal. 8. Reinstall the carpet and the door sill trim. Page 4945 Wire Color Abbreviations Locations Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Locations Relay And Control Unit Locations - Dashboard Page 6882 Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Service Precautions Precautions For Electrical Inspections Precautions For Electrical Inspections When using electrical test equipment, insert the probe of the tester into the wire side of the connector. Do not insert the probe of the tester into the terminal side of the connector, and do not tamper with the connector. Use a U-shaped probe. Do not insert the probe forcibly. Use specified service connectors in troubleshooting. Using improper tools could cause an error in inspection due to poor metal-to-metal contact. Page 1107 Key Reminder Switch: Diagnostic Aids Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Page 3363 116. PGM-FI Main Relay And A/T Reverse Relay (CVT) Page 714 134. Under Right Side of Kick Panel (CVT) Locations Hazard Flasher Relay: Locations Turn Signal/Hazard Flasher Page 2851 12. Remove the mounting bolts for the battery condition monitor (BCM) module and the motor control module (MCM). Disconnect the electrical connectors, then remove the two modules. 13. Install the new BCM and the new MCM. Make sure all electrical connectors are secure. 14. Reinstall the IPU lid. 15. Remove the locking cover from the battery module switch, install the 5 mm bolt, turn the switch on, and reinstall the locking cover. 16. Reinstall the remaining parts in the reverse order of removal. 17. Reconnect the negative cable to the 12-volt battery in the engine compartment. 18. Remove the EPS fuse from the under-hood fusel relay box. 19. With the transmission in neutral and the clutch released, run the engine at 3,500 rpm until the battery level shows at least 50 percent charge. 20. Turn off the engine, then reinstall the EPS fuse. 21. Enter the radio station presets, and set the clock. Disclaimer Specifications Fuel Pressure: Specifications With the fuel pressure regulator vacuum hose disconnected and clamped ................................................ 270 - 320 kPa (2.8 - 3.3 kgf/sq.cm, 40 - 47 psi) With the engine running, unpinch and reconnect the vacuum hose ............................................................ 210 - 260 kPa (2.1 - 2.6 kgf/sq.cm, 30 - 37 psi) Page 6164 Is there about 5 V? YES - Replace the clutch pedal position switch. NO - Go to step 9. 9. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 10. Disconnect ECM connector B (25P). 11. Check for continuity between ECM connector terminal B14 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Repair short in the wire between the ECM (B14) and the clutch pedal position switch. NO - Update the ECM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM, replace the original ECM. 12. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 13. Disconnect the clutch pedal position switch 2P connector. 14. Check for continuity between clutch pedal position switch 2P connector terminals No.1 and No.2 with the clutch pedal pressed. Is there continuity? YES - Go to step 15. NO - Adjust the clutch pedal position switch. 15. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). Page 9275 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 464 ECM Inputs and Outputs at Connector D (16P) Part 1 Page 8290 Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution diagram set to get a more detailed picture of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Page 174 Backup Lamp Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relay Test Normally-open type A: 1. Turn the battery module switch OFF, and measure the voltage. 2. Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is disconnected. A/C compressor clutch relay - Air fuel ratio sensor relay - Condenser fan relay - Daytime running lights relay (Canada) - Headlight relay 1 - Headlight relay 2 - High speed battery module fan control relay - High speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - High voltage conductor control relay - Horn relay - Ignition hold relay - Low speed battery module fan control relay - Low speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - Power window relay - Radiator fan relay - Rear window defogger relay - Reverse relay - Starter cut relay Page 10351 Wiper Motor: Testing and Inspection Wiper Motor Test Windshield: 1. Open the hood. 2. Disconnect the 5P connector (A) from the windshield wiper motor (B). 3. Test the motor by connecting battery power and ground according to the table. If the motor does not run or fails to run smoothly, replace it. 4. Connect an analog voltmeter between the No. 2 (+) and No. 5 (-) terminals, and run the motor at low or high speed. The voltmeter should indicate 0 V and 4 V or less alternately. If it does not, replace the windshield wiper motor. Rear Window: 1. Open the hatch and remove the hatch trim panel. Page 157 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 4024 Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow from power at the top of the diagram to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another for example is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors Page 279 Fuse-to-Components Index Image 6-2 Page 1976 Diodes How to Identify Wiring Color-Coded Insulation Wire Color Page 10010 All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416 etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector or by a capital letter (A, B, C etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Connector Views that shows the connector terminals wire colors connector cavity numbers and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints shown on diagram [8] . Except for the DLC (data link connector) disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554 for example means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Page 6888 Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Description and Operation SRS Operation SRS Operation The main circuit in the SRS unit senses and judges the force of impact and, if necessary, ignites the inflator charges. If battery voltage is too low or power is disconnected due to impact, the voltage regulator and the back-up power circuit respectively will keep voltage at a constant level. For the SRS to operate: 1. The impact sensor must activate and send electronic signals to the microprocessor. 2. The microprocessor must compute the signals and send them to the airbag inflators (and seat belt tensioners). 3. The inflators must ignite and deploy the airbags (and activate the tensioners). Self-diagnosis System A self-diagnosis circuit is built into the SRS unit; when the ignition switch is turned ON (II), the SRS indicator comes on and goes off after about 6 seconds if the SRS is operating normally. If the indicator does not come on, or does not go off after six seconds, or if it comes on while driving, it indicates an abnormality in the SRS. The SRS must be inspected and repaired as soon as possible. For better serviceability, the memory will store the cause of the malfunction, and the data link circuit passes on information from memory to the data link connector (DLC). This information can be read with the Honda PGM Tester connected to the DLC (16P). Page 6402 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 9112 Wire Color Abbreviations Page 3262 Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Description and Operation PGM-FI Main Relay The PGM-FI main relay contains two separate relays. One is energized whenever the ignition is on which supplies battery voltage to the ECM, power to the fuel injectors, and power for the fuel cut relay. The fuel cut relay is energized to supply power to the fuel pump for 2 seconds when the ignition is switched ON (II), and when the engine is running. Page 2518 Radiator: Service and Repair Radiator and Fan Replacement 1. Drain the engine coolant. 2. Remove the upper and lower radiator hoses. 3. Disconnect the fan motor connector. 4. Remove the harness clamps, and remove the bulkhead, then pull up the radiator. 5. Remove the fan shroud assembly and other parts from the radiator. 6. Install the radiator in the reverse order of removal. Make sure the upper and lower cushions are set securely. 7. Fill the radiator with engine coolant and bleed the air. Page 8782 First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 7275 Cavity Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity / terminal shown is # 6. Circuit Schematics Page 6460 Connector-to-Fuse/Relay Box Index Image 6-4 Page 10009 Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow from power at the top of the diagram to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another for example is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors Description and Operation Clutch Switch: Description and Operation Clutch pedal position Switch The clutch pedal position switch signals the ECM when the clutch pedal is pressed. Page 1173 Terminals - "T" Shielding Switches Fuses Page 8404 A battery voltage (B+) circuit which is only powered with the ignition switch in the ON, or START positions. Initiator The electrical component inside the air bag assembly which, when sufficient current flows, sets off the chemical reaction that inflates the air bag. "Initiator Assembly Resistance Test" Tests performed once each ignition cycle when no malfunctions are detected during "Turn-ON" or "Continuous Monitoring." This test checks for the correct SDM configuration for the vehicle, shorts to "Ignition 1 in the deployment loops, high resistance or opens in the "Driver Side High", "Driver Side Low", "Passenger Side High" and "Passenger Side Low" circuits and measures the resistance of the inflator assembly consisting of: 1. Initiators. 2. SRS coil assembly (driver side only). 3. Connectors and associated wiring. Normal Operating Voltage Range The voltage measured between the SDM "Ignition 1" terminals and "Ground" terminals is between 9 and 16 volts. Passenger Current Source An output of the SDM which applies current into the passenger air bag assembly circuit during the "Initiator Assembly Resistance Test". Passenger Air Bag Assembly An assembly located in the right side of the instrument panel consisting of an inflatable bag, an inflator and an initiator. Scan Tool An external computer used to read diagnostic information from on-board computers via the data link connector. SDM Sensing and Diagnostic Module which provides reserve energy to the deployment loops, deploys the air bags when required and performs diagnostic monitoring of all SRS components. Serial Data Information representing the status of the SRS. SRS Supplemental Restraint System. SRS Coil Assembly An assembly of two current-carrying coils in the driver deployment loop that allows the rotation of the steering wheel while maintaining the continuous contact of the driver deployment loop to the driver air bag assembly. SRS Wiring Harness The wires and connectors that electrically connect the components in the SRS. "Turn-ON" Test which the SDM performs on the SRS once during each ignition cycle immediately after "Ignition 1" voltage is applied to the SDM and before "Continuous Monitoring". Page 9251 Terminals - "T" Shielding Switches Fuses Page 6136 12. Install the IPU lid. Torque the bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb-ft). 13. Reinstall the right side trunk shelf support. Torque the bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb-ft). 14. Remove the battery module switch locking cover, and flip the switch to ON. Reinstall the locking cover. 15. Reinstall the battery module switch cover. 16. Reinstall the cargo floor mat. 17. Remove the No.15 (40A) fuse (EPS control unit) from the under-hood fuse/relay box. 18. With the transmission in Neutral, and the clutch released on M/T models, start the engine. Hold it at 3,500 rpm until the IMA battery level indicator shows at least 50 percent charge. 19. Turn off the engine, and reinstall the No.15 fuse. Disclaimer Page 3948 First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: SRS Components Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Description and Operation SRS Components SRS Components The SRS is a safety device which, when used in conjunction with the seat belt, is designed to help protect the driver and passenger in a frontal impact exceeding a certain set limit. The system consists of the SRS unit, including a safing sensor and an impact sensor (A), the cable reel (B), the driver's airbag (C) and the passenger's airbag (D). The seat belt tensioner (E) is linked with the SRS airbags to further increase the effectiveness of the seat belt. In a front-end collision, the tensioner instantly retracts the belt firmly to secure the occupants in their seats. Page 3800 PARTS INFORMATION Engine Control Module: P/N 06380-PHM-A00, H/C 6441117 WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Carefully remove the passenger's side door sill trim. 2. Remove the two carpet hold-down clips on the door sill. 3. Remove the carpet hold-down clip in the passenger's footwell under the glove box. Pull back the carpet. 4. Remove the ECM cover mounting nuts. 5. Pivot the lower edge of the ECM cover off the mounting studs. Lift the upper edge of the cover off the mounting studs, then pull the cover down and back so it clears the evaporator drain tube. 6. Remove the two bolts mounting the ECM to the cover. Disconnect the ECM connectors. 7. Install the new ECM in the reverse order of removal. 8. Reinstall the carpet and the door sill trim. Page 8296 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. Specifications Fuel Pressure: Specifications With the fuel pressure regulator vacuum hose disconnected and clamped ................................................ 270 - 320 kPa (2.8 - 3.3 kgf/sq.cm, 40 - 47 psi) With the engine running, unpinch and reconnect the vacuum hose ............................................................ 210 - 260 kPa (2.1 - 2.6 kgf/sq.cm, 30 - 37 psi) Page 3145 DTC P1861 thru P2238 Page 4652 17. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 18. Measure voltage between idle stop switch 2P connector terminal No.2 and body ground. Is there battery voltage? YES - Repair open in the wire between the idle stop switch and G402. NO - Repair open in the wire between the ECM (A31) and the idle stop switch. Locations 19. Rear of Transmission (M/T) Page 8039 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. Recall - Emissions/ECM Replacement Technical Service Bulletin # 02-081 Date: 021217 Recall - Emissions/ECM Replacement 02-081 December 17, 2002 Applies To: 2000 Insight - ALL 2001 Insight with M/T - ALL Emissions Recall: Insight ECM BACKGROUND The ECM does not correctly identify all malfunctions of the air/fuel ratio sensor (sensor 1). Because of this, the vehicle does not meet state and federal emissions regulations. CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION All owners of affected vehicles will be mailed a notification of this campaign. The customer notification letter is shown in this service bulletin. CORRECTIVE ACTION Replace the ECM. After you replace the ECM, reinitialize the immobilizer system, and do the idle learn procedure. PARTS INFORMATION WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION Operation Number: 122124 Flat Rate Time: 1.0 hour Failed Part: P/N 37820-PHM-A01 H/C 6344626 Defect Code: 5BL Contention Code: L78 Skill Level: Repair Technician REPAIR PROCEDURE NOTE: Make sure you have all of your customer's keys. 1. Carefully remove the passenger's door sill trim. If you break any of the trim clips, replace them (P/N 91560-S06-003, H/C 6353502). Page 4867 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. Locations 23. Left Rear of Engine Compartment Page 4310 Cavity Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity / terminal shown is # 6. Circuit Schematics Page 9419 Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow from power at the top of the diagram to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another for example is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors Engine/Motor Controls - IMA Indicator ON/DTC's Set Motor Control Module (MCM): Customer Interest Engine/Motor Controls - IMA Indicator ON/DTC's Set 02-035 July 23, 2002 Applies To: 2000 Insight - ALL 2001 Insight With M/T - From JHMZE13...1T00001 thru JHMZE13...1T01925 IMA Indicator Comes On With DTC 63 or P1448 (Supersedes 02-035, IMA System Stores DTC 63 or P1448, dated June 25, 2002) Updated information is shown by black bars and asterisks. SYMPTOM The IMA (Integrated Motor Assist) system indicator is on and DIG 63 (P1448) is stored in the MCM memory. PROBABLE CAUSE The MCM (motor control module) software incorrectly reports an IMA battery cooling problem. CORRECTIVE ACTION Replace the battery condition monitor module and the motor control module. PARTS INFORMATION ECU Module Kit: P/N 06060-PHM-305 H/C 6912901 WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. * Operation Number: 118122 * Flat Rate Time: 0.8 hour Failed Part: P/N 1K100-PHM-010 H/C 6377170 Defect Code: 032 Contention Code: C99 Template ID: 02-035A Skill Level: Repair Technician Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. DIAGNOSIS Page 9195 Terminals - "T" Shielding Switches Fuses Page 8738 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 4925 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Page 9511 Diodes How to Identify Wiring Color-Coded Insulation Wire Color Page 8615 Power Door Lock Switch: Diagrams 81. Door Lock Knob Switch/Lock Actuator, Driver's 82. Door Lock Switch, Driver's Page 5004 Cavity Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity / terminal shown is # 6. Circuit Schematics Locations Heating - Component Location Index Diagrams 110. DRL And Low Beam Cut Relays (Canada) Page 6207 Starter Motor: Service and Repair Removal And Installation 1. Write down the frequencies for the radio's preset buttons. 2. Disconnect the battery negative cable, then disconnect the positive cable, and wait at least three minutes. 3. Remove the breather pipe (A) and brake booster vacuum hose bracket (B) from the air cleaner housing, then remove the air cleaner housing/intake air duct assembly. 4. Disconnect the starter cable (A) and BLK/WHT wire (B), then remove the wire harness clamps (C). 5. Remove the two bolts holding the starter, then remove the starter. 6. Install the starter in the reverse order of removal. Make sure the crimped side of the ring terminal is facing out. 7. Connect the battery positive cable and negative cable to the battery. 8. Enter the customer's radio station preset. 9. Remove the No.15 (40 A) fuse from the under-hood fuse box. 10. Start the engine. Hold the engine at 3,000 - 3,500 rpm with no load for 10 minutes. 11. The IMA Battery Level indicator should read full. 12. Reinstall the No.15 (40 A) fuse in the under-hood fuse box. Page 9042 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. Page 2940 9. Measure voltage at the junction board terminals. ^ If the reading is 30 V or less, the capacitors are discharged enough for you to continue; go to step 10. ^ If the reading is more than 30 V, there is a problem with the IMA system. Troubleshoot the system using the IMA section of the service manual, then continue with this procedure. 10. Lift out the battery module foam insert. 11. Replace the BCM (2002-04 Insights) or the BCM and the MCM (2000-01 Insights): ^ Remove the mounting bolts. ^ Disconnect the connectors: The BCM has three; the MCM has five. Page 6674 Wire Color Coding Distinct Of Circuit By Wire Base Color All wires have color-coded insulation. Wires belonging to a system's main harness will have a single color. Wires belonging to a system's sub-circuits will have a colored stripe. Striped wires use the codes found in the chart to show wire size and colors. Abbreviations are used to indicate wire color within a circuit diagram. Wire Color Abbreviations The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics: WHT................................... White YEL................................... Yellow BLK................................... Black BLU................................... Blue GRN................................... Green RED................................... Red ORN................................... Orange PNK................................... Pink BRN................................... Brown GRY................................... Gray PUR................................... Purple LT BLU................................... Light Blue LT GRN................................... Light Green The wire insulation has one color or one color with another color stripe. The second color is the stripe. How to Identify Connector Terminals How to Identify Connector Terminals Page 3938 Cavity Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity / terminal shown is # 6. Circuit Schematics Page 875 Braking Sensor/Switch: Adjustments Brake Pedal and Brake Pedal Position Switch/Idle Stop Switch Adjustment Pedal Height 1. Disconnect the brake pedal position switch connector, loosen the brake pedal position switch locknut (A), and back off the switch (B) until it is no longer touching the brake pedal. 2. Disconnect the idle stop switch connector, and loosen the idle stop switch (CVT). 3. Lift up the carpet. At the insulator cutout, measure the pedal height (C) from the middle of the right side center of the pedal pad (D). Standard pedal height (with carpet removed): 184 mm (7 1/4 inch) 4. Loosen the pushrod locknut (A), and screw the pushrod in or out with a pair of pliers until the standard pedal height from the floor is reached. After adjustment, tighten the locknut firmly. Do not adjust the pedal height with the pushrod pressed. Component Locations Speaker: Component Locations 76. In Front of Driver's Door 78. In Front of Passenger's Door 86. Behind Seat, Middle of Floor Page 8081 First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 4583 Canister Purge Control Valve: Description and Operation EVAP Canister Purge Valve When the engine coolant temperature is below 149 °F (65 °C), the ECM controls the EVAP canister purge valve which cuts vacuum to the EVAP canister. Page 3404 Part 1 Of 2 Page 9764 Map Light: Testing and Inspection Ceiling Light/Spotlights Test/Replacement 1. Turn the ceiling light/spotlights switches OFF. 2. Carefully pry off the lens (A) with a small screwdriver. 3. Remove the two screws and the housing (B). 4. Disconnect the 4P connector (C) from the housing. 5. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table. 6. If the continuity is not as specified, check the bulbs. If the bulbs are OK, replace the light. 7. When installing the ceiling/spotlights housing, if the thread in the ET screw is worn out, use an oversized ET screw made specifically for this application. Page 8056 Speaker: Service and Repair Speaker Replacement 1. Remove the door speaker cover (A). 2. Remove the screws from the speaker (B). 3. Disconnect the 2P connector (C) from the speaker. Page 3958 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. Page 8902 Cavity Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity / terminal shown is # 6. Circuit Schematics Page 4261 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. Page 6450 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. Page 1527 Wiper Switch: Service and Repair Wiper/Washer Switch Test/Replacement 1. Remove the steering column covers. 2. Disconnect the 14P connector (B) from the wiper/washer switch (A). 3. Remove the two screws, then pull out the switch. 4. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table. If the continuity is not as specified, replace the switch. Page 9720 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 828 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. Page 6079 12. Install the IPU lid. Torque the bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb-ft). 13. Reinstall the right side trunk shelf support. Torque the bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb-ft). 14. Remove the battery module switch locking cover, and flip the switch to ON. Reinstall the locking cover. 15. Reinstall the battery module switch cover. 16. Reinstall the cargo floor mat. 17. Remove the No.15 (40A) fuse (EPS control unit) from the under-hood fuse/relay box. 18. With the transmission in Neutral, and the clutch released on M/T models, start the engine. Hold it at 3,500 rpm until the IMA battery level indicator shows at least 50 percent charge. 19. Turn off the engine, and reinstall the No.15 fuse. Disclaimer Page 1576 NOTE: Do this repair procedure if, after doing step 10 of the test-drive, the vehicle pulled in the opposite direction after you swapped the front tires. 1. Swap wheels 2 and 4 on the passenger's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again. ^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 2, then go to step 3. ^ If the pull does not go away, put wheels 2 and 4 back to their original positions, and go to step 2. 2. Swap wheels 1 and 3 on the driver's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again. ^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 1, then go to step 3. ^ If the pull does not go away, use a known-good tire in position 1 and continue diagnosis. 3. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC. REPAIR PROCEDURE B Page 8806 Diodes How to Identify Wiring Color-Coded Insulation Wire Color Page 1643 5. If spark plugs need to be replaced, select the spark plugs according to the designation on the cylinder head and the table shown. 6. Apply a small quantity of anti-seize compound to the plug threads, and screw the plugs into the cylinder head finger-tight. The torque them to 23 N.m (2.3 kgf.m,17 lbf.ft). NOTE: If a spark plug is to be reused, use it in the cylinder where the plug was originally located. Page 9870 Hazard Flasher Relay: Testing and Inspection Turn Signal/Hazard Relay Input Test 1. Remove the turn signal/hazard relay (A) from the under-dash fuse/relay box (B). 2. Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are all making good contact. - If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system. - If the terminals look OK, make the following input tests at the fuse/relay box socket. If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system. - If all the input tests prove OK, the turn signal/hazard relay must be faulty; replace it. Page 7034 3. Position the damper bottom on the knuckle, install the damper pinch bolts (A) and nuts (B), and lightly tighten the bolts. 4. Connect the stabilizer link to the damper, and lightly tighten the nut. 5. Place a jack with a wood block under the lower arm ball joint, and raise the suspension to load the suspension. 6. Tighten the flange nuts on the top of the damper to the specified torque. 7. Tighten the damper pinch bolts to the specified torque. 8. Connect the stabilizer link to the damper, and tighten the flange nut (A) while holding the joint pin (B) with a hex wrench (C). 9. Connect the tie-rod to the steering arm, and tighten the nut (A) to the specified torque. Install the cotter pin (B) after tightening, and bend its end as shown. 10. Install the brake hose bracket and the flange bolt to the damper, and tighten the bolt to the specified torque. 11. Install the front wheel. Clean the mating surface of the brake disc and the inside of the wheel before installing. 12. Set the wheel alignment. Page 1972 Wires Page 7483 97. A/C Pressure Switch Page 5027 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Hatch Lock Actuator/Latch Switch/Unlock Switch Test Power Trunk / Liftgate Lock Actuator: Testing and Inspection Hatch Lock Actuator/Latch Switch/Unlock Switch Test Hatch Lock Actuator/Latch Switch/Unlock Switch Test 1. Open the hatch and remove the rear trim panel. 2. Disconnect the 6P connector (A) from the hatch lock actuator (B). Actuator Test: 3. Check actuator operation by connecting battery power and grounding according to the table. To prevent damage to the actuator, apply battery voltage only momentarily. Latch Switch Test: 4. Check for continuity between terminal No. 3 and terminal No. 6. - With the hatch open, there should be continuity. - With the hatch closed, there should be no continuity. Unlock Switch Test: 5. Check for continuity between terminal No. 1 and terminal No. 2. - With the hatch unlocked, there should be continuity. - With the hatch locked, there should be no continuity. 6. If the tests don't work as specified, replace the hatch latch assembly. Page 7711 Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Service and Repair Connector Disconnection / Connection Disconnecting System Connectors Before removing the airbag or SRS related devices (the SRS unit, the cable reel and the seat belt tensioner connector), disconnecting connectors from SRS related devices, or removing the dashboard or the steering column, disconnect the airbag connectors and seat belt tensioner connectors to prevent accidental deployment. Turn the ignition switch OFF, disconnect the negative cable from the battery, and wait at least 3 minutes before beginning the following procedures. - Before disconnecting the SRS unit connector A (18P) (A) from the SRS unit, disconnect both airbag 2P connectors (C, D) and both seat belt tensioner 2P connectors (E, F). - Before disconnecting the cable reel 2P connector (B), disconnect the driver's airbag 2P connector (C). 1. Disconnect the battery negative cable, and wait at least three minutes. Driver's Airbag 2. Remove the access panel from the steering wheel, then disconnect the driver's airbag 2P connector (A) from the cable reel. Passenger's Airbag Page 4866 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: - Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest OHMS" range. Page 1175 Wire Color Coding Distinct Of Circuit By Wire Base Color All wires have color-coded insulation. Wires belonging to a system's main harness will have a single color. Wires belonging to a system's sub-circuits will have a colored stripe. Striped wires use the codes found in the chart to show wire size and colors. Abbreviations are used to indicate wire color within a circuit diagram. Wire Color Abbreviations The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics: WHT................................... White YEL................................... Yellow BLK................................... Black BLU................................... Blue GRN................................... Green RED................................... Red ORN................................... Orange PNK................................... Pink BRN................................... Brown GRY................................... Gray PUR................................... Purple LT BLU................................... Light Blue LT GRN................................... Light Green The wire insulation has one color or one color with another color stripe. The second color is the stripe. How to Identify Connector Terminals How to Identify Connector Terminals Page 256 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. Locations Refrigerant Pressure Sensor / Switch: Locations Climate Control - Component Location Index Page 5806 First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 4832 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. Page 2463 Relay And Control Unit Locations - Floor And Rear Page 3231 Wires Page 6957 Steering Wheel: Service and Repair Removal SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations, precautions, and procedures in the SRS section before performing repairs or service. 1. Align the front wheels straight ahead, then remove the driver's airbag from the steering wheel. 2. Disconnect the horn switch connector (A). 3. Loosen the steering wheel bolt (A). 4. Install a commercially available steering wheel puller (A) on the steering wheel (B). Free the steering wheel from the steering column shaft by turning the pressure bolt (C) of the puller. Note these items when removing the steering wheel: Do not tap on the steering wheel or the steering column shaft when removing the steering wheel. - If you thread the puller bolts (D) into the wheel hub more than five threads, the bolts will hit the cable reel and damage it. To prevent this, install a pair of jam nuts five threads up on each puller bolt. Page 3196 ECM Inputs and Outputs at Connector A (32P) Part 2 Page 6432 Cavity Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity / terminal shown is # 6. Circuit Schematics Page 8791 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. Page 8950 3. Using the tool, loosen the fuel tank unit locknut (A). 4. Remove the bracket (A), the fuel pressure regulator assembly (B), the fuel filter (C), the fuel tank unit (D), the case (E), and the wire harness (F). 5. When connecting the fuel pump, make sure the connection is secure and the suction filter (G) is firmly connected to the fuel pump (H). 6. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal with a new base gasket (I), then check these items: - When connecting the wire harness, make sure the connection is secure and the connector (J) is firmly locked into the place. - Do not push the lower part of the suction filter. - When installing the fuel gauge sending unit, make sure the connection is secure and the connector is firmly locked into place. Be careful not to bend or twist it excessively. - When installing the fuel pump assembly, align the marks (K) on the fuel tank (L) and the fuel pump assembly (M). Interior - Seat Belts Slow to Retract Seat Belt: All Technical Service Bulletins Interior - Seat Belts Slow to Retract 03-062 September 16, 2003 Applies To: ALL Seat Belt Slow to Retract (Replaces 91-030, dated January 22, 1996) SYMPTOM The seat belt will not retract all the way, or retracts slowly. PROBABLE CAUSE Dirt on the seat belt webbing and guide. CORRECTIVE ACTION Clean the seat belts and guides with a mild soap and water solution, or isopropyl alcohol. This applies only to three-point active and passive seat belt systems, not to motorized systems. REQUIRED MATERIALS Required only for three-point passive seat belts. Teflon Tape (ten pieces per package): P/N 81496-SH3-505, H/C 4008041 WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION This repair is covered by the Lifetime Seat Belt Limited Warranty. Failed Part: P/N 818AD-SM1-A05ZB H/C 3478047 Defect Code: L11 Contention Code: B99 Skill Level: Repair Technician REPAIR PROCEDURE Three-Point Active Seat Belts 1. Use either isopropyl alcohol, or prepare a solution of 5 ounces of mild dishwashing liquid in a gallon of warm water. NOTICE Do not use strong cleaning solutions, upholstery cleaners or commercial automotive interior cleaners. They can affect the durability of the webbing. Page 8888 Dash Lights Brightness Controller - Circuit Diagram Page 7185 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 7033 3. Install the rest of the parts except for the washer and self-locking nut onto the damper unit referring to the Exploded View. Align the spring bottom end (A), the stepped part of the dust cover lower mount (B), and the step on the lower spring seat (C). 4. Install the damper assembly on a commercially available strut spring compressor (D). 5. Compress the damper spring with the strut: spring compressor. 6. Install a new washer (A) and a new self-locking nut (B) on the damper shaft. 7. Hold the damper shaft with a hex wrench (C), and tighten the self-locking nut to the specified torque. Installation 1. Lower the lower arm, and position the damper assembly (A) in the body. 2. Loosely install new self-locking nuts (B) onto the top of the damper. Page 9390 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Capacity Specifications Clutch Fluid: Capacity Specifications Transmission oil For fluid change ................................................................................................................................... ................................................ 1.5 L (1.59 US qt.) For overhaul ......................................................... ................................................................................................................................ 1.6 L (1.69 US qt.) Page 3160 7. Remove the rear clips from the middle bulkhead carpet. 8. Remove the under-cover (two bolts, two clips, and three screw clips). 9. Remove the intelligent power unit (I PU) lid (six Torx bolts and 17 hex bolts). 10. Measure the voltage between the junction board terminals. There should be 10 V or less. ^ If you have more than 10 V, there's a problem in the MA system. Look for and troubleshoot any DTCs before continuing. ^ If you have 10 V or less, continue to step 11. Campaign - ECM Update Engine Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins Campaign - ECM Update 00-042 April 5, 2000 Applies To: 2000 Insight - From VIN JHMZE1...YT000001 thru JHMZE1...YT000440 Product Update: Insight ECM BACKGROUND The engine may not start it the ambient temperature is below 0°F (-20°C). CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION All owners of affected vehicles will be mailed a notification of this campaign. An example of a customer notification is shown. CORRECTIVE ACTION Replace the ECM (engine control module) with an improved unit. After the ECM replacement, the immobilizer system must be reinitialized. Make sure you have all the customer's keys. Page 3979 All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416 etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector or by a capital letter (A, B, C etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Connector Views that shows the connector terminals wire colors connector cavity numbers and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints shown on diagram [8] . Except for the DLC (data link connector) disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554 for example means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Page 9114 Connectors - "C" Page 535 - Taillight relay Page 4712 Fuel Injector: Description and Operation Fuel injector The fuel injectors are a solenoid-actuated constant-stroke, pintleless-type consisting of a solenoid, plunger needle valve, and housing. When current is applied to the solenoid coil, the valve lifts up and pressurized fuel is injected. Because the needle valve lift and the fuel pressure are constant, the injection quantity is determined by the length of time that the valve is open (that is the duration the current is supplied to the solenoid coil). The fuel injector is sealed by an O-ring and seal ring at the top and bottom. These seals also reduce operating noise. Page 1182 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: - Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest OHMS" range. Page 5028 116. PGM-FI Main Relay And A/T Reverse Relay (CVT) Page 5844 Brake Rotor/Disc: Specifications Brake disc Thickness Front Standard or New ............................................................................................................................................ 16.9 17.1 mm (0.665 - 0.673 inch) Service Limit ......................................................................................... ................................................................................ 15.0 mm (0.59 inch) Runout Front Service Limit ........................................................................................................................................ ............................... 0.05 mm (0.002 inch) Parallelism Front Service Limit ........................................................................................................................................ ............................. 0.03 mm (0.0012 inch) Page 6922 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 8727 Terminals - "T" Shielding Switches Fuses Page 2099 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 5129 7. Front of Engine Page 6383 Relay Box: Diagnostic Aids Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Page 4814 Fuel Gauge Sender: Testing and Inspection Fuel Gauge Sending Unit Test/Replacement Special Tools Required Adjustable ring wrench 07XAA-001010A NOTE: This article has been updated as per TSB SN030415. NOTE: For the fuel gauge system circuit diagram, refer to the Gauges Circuit Diagram. Test 1. Check the No.6 fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box before testing. 2. Remove the middle floor panel. 3. Remove the access panel from the floor. 4. Turn the ignition switch OFF, then disconnect the fuel pump 5P connector. 5. Measure voltage between the fuel pump 5P connector terminals No.1 and No.2 with the ignition switch ON (II). There should be Battery Voltage. - If the voltage is as specified, go to step 6. - If the voltage is not as specified, check for: an open in the YEL/BLK or BLK wire. - poor ground (G502). 6. Turn the ignition switch OFF. Remove the No.18 (7.5 A) fuse from the under-dash fuse/relay box for at least 10 seconds, then reinstall it. 7. Install a 2 Ohms resistor between the fuel pump 5P connector terminals No.1 and No.2, then turn the ignition switch ON (II). 8. Check that the pointer of the fuel gauge starts moving toward the "F" mark. - If the pointer of the fuel gauge does not move at all, replace the gauge. - If the gauge is OK, inspect the fuel gauge sending unit. NOTE: Turn the ignition switch OFF before the pointer reaches "F" on the gauge dial. Failure to do so may damage the fuel gauge. - The fuel gauge is a bobbin (cross-coil) type, hence the fuel level is continuously indicated even when the ignition switch is OFF, and the pointer moves more slowly than that of a bimetal type. Replacement 1. Remove the fuel tank. 2. Disconnect the quick-connect fittings from the fuel pump. Removal and Installation Evaporator Core: Service and Repair Removal and Installation Evaporator Removal and Installation 1. Recover the refrigerant with a recovery/recycling/charging station. 2. Remove the bolt, then disconnect the suction line (A) and receiver line (B) from the evaporator. Plug or cap the lines immediately after disconnecting them to avoid moisture and dust contamination. 3. Remove the glove box. and the center lower cover. 4. Remove the plastic cross brace, then remove the glove box frame. 5. Disconnect the connector (A) from the evaporator temperature sensor, then remove the wire harness (B). Remove the drain hose (C), the self-tapping screws, the mounting bolts, and the evaporator (D). 6. Install the evaporator in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - If you're installing a new evaporator, add refrigerant oil (SANDEN SP-10). - Replace the O-rings with new ones at each fitting, and apply a thin coat of refrigerant oil before installing them. Be sure to use the O-rings for HFC-134a (R-134a) to avoid leakage. - Immediately after using the oil, the cap on the container, and seal it to avoid moisture absorption. - Do not spill the refrigerant oil on the vehicle; it may damage the paint. If the refrigerant oil contacts the paint, wash it off immediately. - Make sure that there is no air leakage. - Charge the system. Page 6031 Is there about 5 V? YES - Replace the clutch pedal position switch. NO - Go to step 9. 9. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 10. Disconnect ECM connector B (25P). 11. Check for continuity between ECM connector terminal B14 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Repair short in the wire between the ECM (B14) and the clutch pedal position switch. NO - Update the ECM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM, replace the original ECM. 12. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 13. Disconnect the clutch pedal position switch 2P connector. 14. Check for continuity between clutch pedal position switch 2P connector terminals No.1 and No.2 with the clutch pedal pressed. Is there continuity? YES - Go to step 15. NO - Adjust the clutch pedal position switch. 15. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). Page 1003 Connectors - "C" Page 8202 114. Middle of Cargo Area Page 8911 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. Page 511 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 10020 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Locations 47. Steering Wheel (Airbag Removed) Page 7938 Driver/Vehicle Information Display: Testing and Inspection Fuel Consumption Display Select Switch Test/Replacement 1. Remove the instrument panel. 2. Disconnect the 6P connector (A) from the switch (B). 3. Remove the two screws and the switch. 4. Check for continuity between the No. 6 and No. 1 terminals when the switch is pushed. There should be continuity. 5. If the continuity check is not as specified, replace the switch. Page 6525 Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box Part 2 Page 9434 EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 1840 Fuse Block: Connector Views 174. Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box Part 1 Page 6351 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. Page 1307 89. MAP Sensor Page 7114 Connectors - "C" Page 2862 Relay And Control Unit Locations - Floor And Rear Page 5601 50. Neutral Position Switch (M/T) Page 5773 71. Wheel Speed Sensor, Right Rear Locations Fuel Pump Relay: Locations Fuel Supply System - Relay Locations Page 3240 Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution diagram set to get a more detailed picture of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Page 6018 Wheel Speed Sensor: Diagrams 68. Wheel Speed Sensor, Left Front 68. Wheel Speed Sensor, Left Front 68. Wheel Speed Sensor, Left Front Page 8572 156. Keyless Door Lock Control Unit Page 2185 2. Loosen the idler pulley center nut (B). 3. Turn the adjusting bolt (C) to obtain the proper belt deflection, then retighten the idler pulley center nut. 4. Recheck the belt deflection. 5. If you installed a new belt, run the engine for five minutes, then readjust the belt to the used belt specification. Master Switch Replacement Power Window Switch: Service and Repair Master Switch Replacement Master Switch Test/Replacement 1. Remove the instrument panel. 2. Disconnect the 14P connector (A) from the power window master switch (B). 3. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table. Driver's Switch: The driver's switch is combined with the control unit, so you cannot isolate the switch to test it. Instead, run the master switch input test procedures. If the tests are normal, the driver's switch must be faulty. 4. If the continuity is not as specified, remove the three screws and replace the switch. Page 6727 ^ If the wheels are pointed to the right, shorten the driver's side tie-rod, and lengthen the passenger's side. ^ If the wheels are pointed to the left, shorten the passenger's side tie-rod, and lengthen the driver's side. ^ Each 360° turn of the tie-rod equals about 8 mm of steering wheel adjustment. For example, a steering wheel is off-center by 4 mm with the front wheels pointed right (when the steering wheel is centered). To correct the off-center, shorten the driver's side tie-rod by a half-turn, and lengthen the passenger's side tie-rod by a half-turn. 4. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC. Page 4192 DTC P1586 thru P1678 Locations Door Switch: Locations 85. Left B-pillar 90. Right B-pillar Page 1679 5. Remove the filter (A) from the housing (B), and replace the filter. 6. Install the filter in the reverse order of removal. Page 6200 9. Place the armature (A) on an armature tester (B). Hold a hacksaw blade (C) on the armature core. If the blade is attracted to the core or vibrates while the core is turned, the armature is shorted. Replace the armature. 10. Check with an meter that no continuity exists between the commutator (A) and armature coil core (B), and between the commutator and armature shaft (C). If continuity exists, replace the armature. Starter Brush Inspection 11. Measure the brush length. If it is not within the service limit, replace the brush holder assembly. Brush Length Standard (New): 11.1 - 11.5 mm (0.44 - 0.45 in.) Service Limit: 4.3 mm (0.17 in.) Starter Brush Holder Test Page 5689 Shift Interlock Solenoid: Service and Repair Shift Lock Solenoid Replacement 1. Remove the front console. 2. Disconnect the shift lock solenoid connector. 3. Pry the shift lock solenoid clamp (A) with a screwdriver, and remove it. 4. Remove the shift lock solenoid. 5. Install the shift lock solenoid plunger (B) and plunger spring (C) in the new shift lock solenoid (D). 6. Install the shift lock solenoid by aligning the joint of the shift lock solenoid plunger with the tip of the shift lock stop (E). 7. Secure the shift lock solenoid with the solenoid clamp. 8. Connect the shift lock solenoid connector. 9. Install the front console. Page 10084 Trunk Lamp: Service and Repair Cargo Area Light Replacement 1. Turn the cargo area light switch OFF. 2. Carefully pry off the lens (A) with a small screw driver. CARGO AREA LIGHT: 3.4 W 3. Carefully remove the light housing (B). 4. Disconnect the 2P connector (C) from the light. 5. Check the bulb (D). If the bulb is OK, check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table. Page 7850 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 606 Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Diagnostic Aids Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Page 3707 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Locations Parking Brake Warning Switch: Locations Gauges - Component Location Index Page 8971 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: - Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest OHMS" range. Page 5843 Finishing the Job Remove the vibration damper and the protective band (if used). Use a micrometer to measure the thickness of the brake disc. Make sure the thickness is within the service manual specifications. Clean the brake disc with soapy water or brake cleaner, then wipe it dry. Use a vacuum cleaner to remove any dust or chips, but do not use compressed air. Unplug the tool bed feed motor from the drive motor assembly, and remove the mounting yoke from the brake disc. Remove the speed mount from the steering knuckle. Apply a small amount of Molykote 77 grease to the brake pad shims. Reinstall the caliper assembly. (If you did not use the power drive system, use the brake pad spreader to push the pistons back into the caliper.) Torque the nuts and bolts to the required specification (see the appropriate service manual). Refinish the other front brake disc using the same guidelines. Check the brake fluid level, then test-drive the vehicle to make sure the brake pedal is firm and does not pulsate. Lightly apply the brakes about 20 times during the test-drive to seat the brake pads. REAR BRAKE DISCS It is possible to use an on-car lathe on some models if the rear caliper mounts are low enough to clear the vehicle body. A power driver is needed for front drive models. Refinish rear brake discs on bench-mounted equipment if necessary. Follow the same guidelines you used for refinishing front brake discs, noting these differences: ^ Mount the brake lathe to the rear knuckle with the Honda 2-Piece Adapter (P/N KWY-1 08102504). You can order the 2-piece adapter through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program (see ORDERING INFORMATION). Disclaimer Page 7862 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. Page 4247 In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locater) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: - Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. Page 6212 13. Install the brush into the brush holder, and set the armature (A) in the brush holder (B). 14. Squeezing a spring (C), insert it in the hole on the brush holder and push it until it bottoms. Repeat this for other three springs (D, E and F). 15. Install the armature and brush holder assembly in the housing. NOTE: Make sure the armature stays in the holder. Planetary Gear Inspection 16. Check the planetary gears (A) and ring gear (B) are worn or damaged. If they are worn or damaged, replace the planetary gears and ring gear. Overrunning Clutch Inspection 17. Holding the drive gear (A), turn the gear shaft (B) clockwise. Check that the drive gear comes out to the other end. If the drive gear does not move smoothly, replace the gear cover assembly. 18. Holding the drive gear, turn the gear shaft counterclockwise. The gear shaft should rotate freely. If the gear shaft does not rotate smoothly, replace the gear cover assembly. 19. If the starter drive gear is worn or damaged, replace the gear cover assembly. Check the condition of the flywheel ring gear if the drive gear teeth are damaged. 20. Reassemble the starter in reverse order of disassembly. Page 9125 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: - Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest OHMS" range. Page 7707 Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Description and Operation Definitions Air Bag An inflatable cloth cushion designed to deploy in certain frontal crashes. It supplements the protection offered by the seat belts by distributing the impact load more evenly over the vehicle occupant's head and torso. Asynchronous Performed in a nonperiodic fashion, (i.e., no defined time or interval). (B+) Battery voltage, (B+) The voltage available at the battery at the time of the indicated measurement. With the key "ON" and the engine not running, the system voltage will likely be between 12 and 12.5 volts. At idle the voltage may be 14 to 16 volts. The voltage could be as low as 10 volts during engine cranking. Bulb Check The SDM will cause the "AIR BAG" warning lamp to flash seven times and then go "OFF" whenever the ignition switch transitions to the ON position from any other ignition switch position and no malfunctions are detected. "CONTINUOUS MONITORING" Tests performed by the SDM on the SRS every 100 milliseconds while "Ignition 1" voltage is in the normal operating voltage range at the SDM. Data Link Connector (DLC) Formerly "DLC" a connector which allows communication with an external computer, such as a scan tool. Datum Line A base line parallel to the plane of the underbody or frame from which all vertical measurements originate. Deploy To inflate the air bag. Deployment Loops The circuits which supply current to the air bag assemblies to deploy the air bag. Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) Formerly "Code", a numerical designator used by the SDM to indicate specific SRS malfunctions. Driver Current Source An output of the SDM which applies current into the driver air bag assembly circuit during the "Initiator Assembly Resistance Test". Driver Air Bag Assembly An assembly located in the steering wheel hub consisting of an inflatable bag, an inflator and an initiator. EEPROM Electronically Erasable Programmable Read Only Memory. Memory which retains its contents when power is removed from the SDM. Ignition Cycle The voltage at the SDM "Ignition 1" inputs, with ignition switch "ON", is within the normal operating voltage range for at least ten seconds before turning ignition switch "OFF". Ignition 1 Page 6247 First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 7086 10. Remove the cotter pin (A) from the lower arm ball joint, and remove the castle nut (B). 11. Remove the lower arm ball joint from the knuckle using the special tool. NOTE: Make sure you position the ball joint remover jaw on the bushing (D) and not on the aluminum surface of the knuckle. 12. Loosen the damper pinch bolts (A) while holding the nuts (B), and remove the bolts and nuts. 13. Pull the knuckle off of the driveshaft while holding the outboard joint (c), and remove the knuckle from the damper. NOTE: Do not pull the driveshaft end outward. The driveshaft joint may come off. 14. Separate the hub (A) from the hub bearing unit (B) using the special tool and a press. Hold onto the hub to keep it from falling when pressed clear. Page 8528 131. Power Mirror Switch Page 667 6. Remove the right trunk shelf support (five clips and two bolts). 7. Remove the six mid-frame cover bolts. Remove the intelligent power unit (IPU) lid (17 bolts). 8. Measure the voltage at the junction board terminals. There should be 30 V or less. If you read more than 30 V, there is a problem in the circuit; do the DTC troubleshooting first. 9. Look at the part number on the motor control module (MCM), and refer to this chart. If there is a replacement part number listed for it, you need to order a replacement MCM. 10. Look at the part number on the battery condition monitor (BCM). If the part number is not 1K100-PHM-A01, you need to order a replacement BCM. Page 8044 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 4452 67. VTEC Oil Pressure Switch Page 7701 Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Service Precautions Wiring Precautions Wiring Precautions SRS wiring can be identified by special yellow outer covering (except the SRS indicator light circuit). Never attempt to modify, splice, or repair SRS wiring. If there is an open or damage in SRS wiring, replace the harness. Be sure to install the harness wires so that they are not pinched, or interfere with other parts. Make sure all SRS ground locations are clean, and grounds are securely fastened for optimum metal-to-metal contact. Poor grounding can cause intermittent problems that are difficult to diagnose. Page 10173 - Taillight relay Page 2193 6. If you installed a new belt, run the engine for five minutes, then readjust the belt to the used belt specification. Deflection Method Inspection 1. Apply a force of 98 N (10 kgf, 22 lbs.), and measure the deflection at the mid point (A) between the water pump and crankshaft pulleys. If the belt is worn or damaged, replace it. If the belt needs adjustment, go to step 2. Adjustment 2. Loosen the idler pulley center nut (B). 3. Turn the adjusting bolt (C) to obtain the proper belt deflection, then retighten the idler pulley center nut. 4. Recheck the belt deflection. 5. If you installed a new belt, run the engine for five minutes, then readjust the belt to the used belt specification. Diagnostic Aids Control Assembly: Diagnostic Aids Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Page 6326 175. Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box Page 3837 DTC P1253 thru P1459 Page 5847 2. Remove the center cap (A), wheel nuts (B), and front wheel (C). 3. Remove the brake hose bracket mounting bolt (A). 4. Remove the caliper bracket mounting bolts (B), and remove the caliper assembly (C) from the knuckle. To prevent damage to the caliper assembly or brake hose, use a short piece of wire to hang the caliper assembly from the undercarriage. Do not twist the brake hose with force. 5. Remove the spindle nut (A). Locations Steering Control Module: Locations Dash Board View Page 9719 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Page 8659 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 7631 Air Bag: Service Precautions Airbag Handling and Storage Do not disassemble an airbag. It has no serviceable parts. Once an airbag has been deployed, it cannot be repaired or reused. For temporary storage of the airbag during service, please observe the following precautions. - Store the removed airbag with the pad surface up. Never put anything on the removed airbag. - Keep free from any oil, grease, detergent, or water to prevent damage to the airbag assembly. - Store the removed airbag on a secure, flat surface away from any high heat source (exceeding 200 °F/93 °C). - Never perform electrical inspections to the airbags, such as measuring resistance. - Do not position yourself in front of the airbag assembly during removal, inspection, or replacement. - Refer to the scrapping procedures for disposal of the damaged airbag. Page 4880 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. Page 3778 P/N 17012-S01-A00 H/C 5999016 ECM/PCM: P/N 37820-P2P-A12 H/C 6104426 Defect Code: 072 Contention Code: C01 Skill Level: Repair Technician Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Connect the PGM Tester to the 16P data link connector. 2. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). Turn on the PGM Tester. 3. From the PROGRAM MENU screen, select HONDA SYSTEMS. 4. From the SYSTEM SELECT screen, select 1: PGM-FI. 5. From the TEST MODE MENU screen, select 6: INSPECTION. 6. From the INSPECTION MENU screen, select 2: EVAP TEST. 7. From the EVAP TEST MENU, select 1: SINGLE SOLENOIDS. 8. From the SINGLE SOLENOIDS MENU, activate the EVAP bypass solenoid valve. Listen for a click and feel for a light tap from the solenoid valve as you activate it. ^ If you can hear the solenoid valve click or feel it tap when activated, disregard this service bulletin, and look for other possible causes. ^ If you cannot hear the solenoid valve click or feel it tap when activated, go to step 9. 9. Replace the EVAP bypass solenoid valve (see section 11 of the appropriate service manual). 10. Test the new solenoid valve with the PGM Tester. ^ If you can hear the solenoid valve click or feel it tap when activated, go to step 15 or 16 as appropriate. ^ If you cannot hear the solenoid valve click or feel it tap when activated, go to step 11. 11. Check the wire harness and the connectors for damage. ^ If you find any damage, repair it, then go to step 12. ^ If you find no damage in the wire harness or connectors, go to step 13. 12. Test the solenoid valve again with the PGM Tester. ^ If you can hear the solenoid valve click or feel it tap when activated, go to step 15 or 16 as appropriate. ^ If you cannot hear the solenoid valve click or feel it tap when activated, go to step 13. 13. Replace the ECM/PCM (see section 11 of the appropriate service manual). 14. Use the PGM Tester to retest the solenoid valve. ^ If you can hear the solenoid valve click or feel it tap when activated, go to step 15 or 16 as appropriate. Page 4289 Engine Control Module: Service and Repair Monitors, Trips, and/or Drive Cycle (Readiness Codes) How to Set Readiness Codes Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) Indication (In relation to Readiness Codes) The vehicle has certain "readiness codes" that are part of the on-board diagnostics for the emissions systems. If the vehicle's battery has been disconnected or gone dead, if the DTCs have been cleared, or if the ECM has been reset, these codes are reset. In some states, part of the emissions testing is to make sure these codes are set to complete. If all of them are not set to complete, the vehicle may fail the emission test, or the test cannot be finished. To check if the readiness codes are complete, turn the ignition switch ON (II), but do not start the engine. The MIL will come on for 15 - 20 seconds. If it then goes off, the readiness codes are complete. If it blinks several times, one or more readiness codes are not complete. To set readiness codes from incomplete to complete, do the procedure for the appropriate code. Catalytic Converter Monitor and Readiness Code NOTE: - Do not turn the ignition switch off during the procedure. - All readiness codes are cleared when the battery is disconnected or when the ECM is cleared with the OBD II scan tool or Honda PGM Tester. - Low ambient temperatures or excessive stop-and-go traffic may increase the drive time needed to switch the readiness code from incomplete to complete. - The readiness code will not switch to complete until all the enable criteria are met. - If a fault in the secondary HO2S system caused the MIL to come on, the readiness code cannot be set to complete until you correct the fault. Enable Criteria - ECT at 158 °F (70 °C) or higher. - Intake air temperature (IAT) at 20 °F (-7 °C) or higher. - Vehicle speed is steady, and vehicle speed sensor (VSS) reads more then 25 mph (40 km/h). Procedure 1. Connect the scan tool to the vehicle's data link connector (DLC), and bring up the tool's generic OBD II mode. 2. Start the engine. 3. Test-drive the vehicle under stop-and-go conditions with short periods of steady cruise. After about 5 miles (8 km), the readiness code should switch from incomplete to complete. 4. If the readiness code is still set to incomplete, check for a temporary DTC. If there is no DTC, one or more of the enable criteria were probably not met; repeat the procedure. Evaporative Emissions (EVAP) Control System Monitor and Readiness code NOTE: - All readiness code are cleared when the battery is disconnected or when the ECM is cleared with the OBD II scan tool or Honda PGM Tester. - The enable criteria must be repeated if the intake air temperature (IAT) drops lower then 36 °F (2 °C) from its value at engine start up. Enable Criteria - At engine start up, ECT and IAT are higher then 32 °F (0 °C), but lower then 95 °F (35 °C). - At engine start up, the ECT and IAT are within 12 °F (7 °C) of each other. Procedure 1. Connect the scan tool to the vehicle's data link connector (DLC), and bring up the tool's generic OBD II mode. 2. Start the engine. 3. Test-drive the vehicle under stop-and-go conditions with short periods of steady cruise. After about 2.5 miles (4 km), the readiness code should switch from incomplete to complete. 4. If the readiness code is still set to incomplete, check for a temporary DTC. If there is no DTC, one or more of the enable criteria were probably not met; repeat the procedure. Air Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor Monitor and Readiness Code NOTE: - Do not turn the ignition switch off during the procedure. - All readiness codes are cleared when the battery is disconnected or when the ECM is cleared with the OBD II scan tool or Honda PGM Tester. Enable Criteria - ECT at 140 °F (60 °C) or higher. Page 1352 Vehicle Speed Sensor: Service and Repair VSS Replacement 1. Disconnect the 3P connector (A) from the VSS (vehicle speed sensor) (B). 2. Remove the mounting bolt, then remove the VSS. 3. Install in the reverse order of removal. General Precautions Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Service Precautions General Precautions General Precautions Please read the following precautions carefully before performing the airbag system service. Observe the instructions described or the airbags could accidentally deploy and cause damage or injuries. Except when performing electrical inspections, always turn the ignition switch OFF and disconnect the negative cable from the battery, and wait at least three minutes before beginning work. NOTE: The contents in the memory is not erased even if the ignition switch is turned OFF or the battery cables are disconnected from the battery. Use the replacement parts which are manufactured to the same standards as the original parts and quality. Do not install used SRS parts from another vehicle. Use only new parts when making SRS repairs. Carefully inspect any SRS part before you install it. Do not install any part that shows signs of being dropped or improperly handled, such as dents, cracks or deformation. Before removing any of the SRS parts (including the disconnection of the connectors), always disconnect the SRS connector. Use only a digital multimeter to check the system. If it is not a Honda multimeter, make sure its output is 10 mA (0.01 A) or less when switched to the lowest value in the ohmmeter range. A tester with a higher output could cause accidental deployment and possible injury. Do not put objects on the front passenger's airbag. The original radio has a coded theft protection circuit. Be sure to get the customer's radio code before disconnecting the battery cable. PGM-FI Main Relay Circuit Troubleshooting Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Testing and Inspection PGM-FI Main Relay Circuit Troubleshooting PGM-FI Main Relay Circuit Troubleshooting 1. Turn the ignition switch OFF, then disconnect the PGM-FI main relay connectors. 2. Check for continuity between body ground and PGM-FI main relay diode 2P connector terminal No.2. Is there continuity? YES - Go to step 3. NO - Repair open in the wire between the PGM-FI main relay and G101. 3. Measure voltage between body ground and PGM-FI main relay (IGP) 4P connector terminal No.2. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 5. NO - Go to step 4. 4. Check for a blown No.7 (15 A) fuse in the underhood fuse/relay box. Is the fuse blown? YES - Repair the short in the wire between the PGM-FI main relay and the No.7 (15 A) fuse. NO - Repair the open in the wire between the PGM-FI main relay and the No.7 (15 A) fuse. Page 6410 Fuse-to-Components Index Image 6-3 Page 9822 All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416 etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector or by a capital letter (A, B, C etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Connector Views that shows the connector terminals wire colors connector cavity numbers and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints shown on diagram [8] . Except for the DLC (data link connector) disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554 for example means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Locations Knock Sensor: Locations PGM-FI System - Component Location Index Page 3989 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Component Locations Relay Box: Component Locations 28. Left Front Side of Engine Compartment 33. Underside of Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box Page 1659 2. Loosen the idler pulley center nut (B). 3. Turn the adjusting bolt (C) to obtain the proper belt deflection, then retighten the idler pulley center nut. 4. Recheck the belt deflection. 5. If you installed a new belt, run the engine for five minutes, then readjust the belt to the used belt specification. Page 9052 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. Page 3710 Data Link Connector: Testing and Inspection DLC Circuit Troubleshooting - If the ECM does not communicate with the OBD II scan tool/Honda PGM Tester, or I/M test equipment, do this troubleshooting procedure. - Check that MIL circuit is normal, then do this troubleshooting. 1. Measure voltage between DLC terminal No.16 and body ground. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 2. NO - Repair open in the wire between DLC terminal No.16 and the No.18 (7.5 A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box. 2. Measure voltage between DLC terminals No.4 and No.16. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 3. NO - Repair open in the wire between DLC terminal No.4 and body ground. 3. Measure voltage between DLC terminals No.5 and No.16. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 4. NO - Repair open in the wire between DLC terminal No.5 and body ground. Page 109 Radiator Cooling Fan Motor Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relay Test Normally-open type A: 1. Turn the battery module switch OFF, and measure the voltage. 2. Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is disconnected. A/C compressor clutch relay - Air fuel ratio sensor relay - Condenser fan relay - Daytime running lights relay (Canada) - Headlight relay 1 - Headlight relay 2 - High speed battery module fan control relay - High speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - High voltage conductor control relay - Horn relay - Ignition hold relay - Low speed battery module fan control relay - Low speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - Power window relay - Radiator fan relay - Rear window defogger relay - Reverse relay - Starter cut relay Page 7020 Suspension Spring ( Coil / Leaf ): Service and Repair Rear Spring-Bump Stop Replacement Spring/Bump Stop Replacement NOTE: Bolts and nuts with the [star] mark are special corrosion-resistant Dacro fasteners. Use the same type if replacement is necessary. 1. Raise the rear of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper location. Remove the fender skirts and rear wheels on the right and left side of the vehicle. 2. Disconnect the wheel sensor connectors (A), and remove the wheel sensor brackets (B) and the brake hose brackets (C), on the right and left side. 3. Place a jack under each end of the rear axle beam. 4. Remove the flange bolts (A) at the bottom of the dampers on the right and left side. PGM-FI Main Relay Circuit Troubleshooting Fuel Pump Relay: Testing and Inspection PGM-FI Main Relay Circuit Troubleshooting PGM-FI Main Relay Circuit Troubleshooting 1. Turn the ignition switch OFF, then disconnect the PGM-FI main relay connectors. 2. Check for continuity between body ground and PGM-FI main relay diode 2P connector terminal No.2. Is there continuity? YES - Go to step 3. NO - Repair open in the wire between the PGM-FI main relay and G101. 3. Measure voltage between body ground and PGM-FI main relay (IGP) 4P connector terminal No.2. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 5. NO - Go to step 4. 4. Check for a blown No.7 (15 A) fuse in the underhood fuse/relay box. Is the fuse blown? YES - Repair the short in the wire between the PGM-FI main relay and the No.7 (15 A) fuse. NO - Repair the open in the wire between the PGM-FI main relay and the No.7 (15 A) fuse. Page 7133 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: Page 1720 Fluid - CVT: Fluid Type Specifications A/T Fluid Type ..................................................................................................................................................... ............................ Honda ATF-Z1 or new CVT fluid. Honda Service News Notice: If you're replacing transmission fluid in a CVT-equipped vehicle, or just topping it off, make sure you're using the new CVT fluid (P/N 08200-9006). From here on, DON'T put ATF-Z1 in a CVT. If you're topping off a CVT that's already got ATF-Z1, there's no need for concern; this fluid is compatible with ATF-Z1. All CVT-equipped Hondas starting with the 2006 models and onward will be factory-filled with the new CVT fluid. Page 10058 Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow from power at the top of the diagram to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another for example is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors Page 3653 Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Description and Operation ECT (Engine Coolant Temperature) Sensor The ECT sensor is a temperature dependent resistor (thermistor). The resistance of the thermistor decreases as the engine coolant temperature increases. Page 8975 First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 1056 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. Page 1150 Backup Lamp Switch: Testing and Inspection Reverse Position Switch Signal Circuit Troubleshooting M/T model 1. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). Are the back-up lights on when the shift lever is not in reverse position? YES - Inspect the reverse position switch. NO - Go to step 2. 2. Shift the transmission to reverse gear. Do the back-up lights come on? YES - Go to step 3. NO - Go to step 4. 3. Measure voltage between the ECM connector terminal B24 and B20. Is there battery voltage? YES - The reverse position switch signal is OK. NO - Repair open in the wire between the ECM (B24) and the reverse position switch. 4. Inspect the No.27 (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box. Is the fuse OK? YES - Repair open in the wire between the brake switch and the No.27 (7.5 A) fuse. Inspect the reverse position switch. NO - Repair short in the wire between the ECM (B24) and the No.27 (7.5 A) fuse. Replace the No.27 (7.5 A) fuse. Campaign - Integrated Motor Assist Controller Update Technical Service Bulletin # 01-102 Date: 011127 Campaign - Integrated Motor Assist Controller Update 01-102 November 27, 2001 Applies To: 2000-01 Insight with M/T - See VEHICLES AFFECTED Product Update: IMA Controller Modification BACKGROUND The IMA (Integrated Motor Assist) system supplies power to various 12-volt loads on the vehicle (lights, radio, windows, etc.) and assists the engine to improve vehicle performance. In very cold weather, power demands on the IMA battery module can exceed output, causing permanent damage to the battery module. VEHICLES AFFECTED Not all 2000-01 Insights with M/T are affected by this product update. Only vehicles that are registered and normally driven in cold weather areas are affected. Before you begin, verify that the vehicle is registered in one of the states affected by the update (see the map). Then check for vehicle eligibility by doing one of the following. ^ Verify that the customer has a notification letter. ^ Check the vehicle's VIN on your campaign responsibility report. ^ Do a VIN status inquiry on DCS. CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION All owners of affected vehicles will be sent a notification of this product update. An example of the customer notification. CORRECTIVE ACTION Replace the battery condition monitor (BCM) module and the motor control module (MCM). PARTS INFORMATION Page 150 In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locater) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: - Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. Recall - Emissions/ECM Replacement Technical Service Bulletin # 02-081 Date: 021217 Recall - Emissions/ECM Replacement 02-081 December 17, 2002 Applies To: 2000 Insight - ALL 2001 Insight with M/T - ALL Emissions Recall: Insight ECM BACKGROUND The ECM does not correctly identify all malfunctions of the air/fuel ratio sensor (sensor 1). Because of this, the vehicle does not meet state and federal emissions regulations. CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION All owners of affected vehicles will be mailed a notification of this campaign. The customer notification letter is shown in this service bulletin. CORRECTIVE ACTION Replace the ECM. After you replace the ECM, reinitialize the immobilizer system, and do the idle learn procedure. PARTS INFORMATION WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION Operation Number: 122124 Flat Rate Time: 1.0 hour Failed Part: P/N 37820-PHM-A01 H/C 6344626 Defect Code: 5BL Contention Code: L78 Skill Level: Repair Technician REPAIR PROCEDURE NOTE: Make sure you have all of your customer's keys. 1. Carefully remove the passenger's door sill trim. If you break any of the trim clips, replace them (P/N 91560-S06-003, H/C 6353502). Page 9898 - Taillight relay Specifications Compressor Clutch: Specifications Pulley-to-Pressure Plate Clearance 0.020 +/- 0.006 in Page 3879 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: Page 8815 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. Page 5937 1. Remove the rear console: ^ Remove the two screws. ^ Move the console forward to detach it from the hook. 2. Remove the parking brake lever: ^ Remove the adjusting nut and the spring. ^ Disconnect the parking brake switch connector. ^ Remove the two mounting bolts. 3. Install the new parking brake lever, and torque the mounting bolts to 22 Nm (16 lb-ft). 4. Connect the parking brake switch connector, then install the original spring and the adjusting nut. 5. Block the front wheels, then raise the rear of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands. 6. Pull up the parking brake lever one click. 7. Tighten the parking brake lever adjusting nut until you get a slight drag on the rear brakes when you turn the rear wheels. 8. Release the parking brake lever. If the rear wheels don't turn freely, repeat steps 6 thru 5. 9. Lower the vehicle. 10. Install the rear center console. Page 5342 Page 1731 Fluid - M/T: Service and Repair Transmission Fluid Inspection and Replacement 1. Park the vehicle on level ground, and turn the engine OFF. 2. Remove the left engine under-cover. 3. Remove the oil filler plug (A) and washer (B), check the condition of the fluid, and make sure the fluid is at the proper level (C). 4. If the transmission fluid is dirty, remove the oil filler plug and drain plug (D) and drain the fluid. 5. Reinstall the drain plug (D) with a new washer (E), and refill the transmission fluid to proper level. Oil Capacity 1.5 L (1.59 US qt) at fluid change 1.6 L (1.69 US qt) at overhaul Always use Honda Manual Transmission Fluid (MTF). Using motor oil can cause stiffer shifting because it does not contain the proper additives. 6. Reinstall the oil filler plug with a new washer. Page 8723 Wire Color Abbreviations Page 8539 Page 9632 60. Middle of Dash Locations Condenser Fan Motor Relay: Locations Relay And Control Unit Location - Engine Compartment Page 9565 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Locations Power Window Switch: Locations Power Windows - Component Location Index Page 9336 EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 4947 Connectors - "C" Page 7499 Compressor Clutch Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relay Test Normally-open type A: 1. Turn the battery module switch OFF, and measure the voltage. 2. Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is disconnected. A/C compressor clutch relay - Air fuel ratio sensor relay - Condenser fan relay - Daytime running lights relay (Canada) - Headlight relay 1 - Headlight relay 2 - High speed battery module fan control relay - High speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - High voltage conductor control relay - Horn relay - Ignition hold relay - Low speed battery module fan control relay - Low speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - Power window relay - Radiator fan relay - Rear window defogger relay - Reverse relay - Starter cut relay Page 5472 197. Driving Mode Buttons (CVT) Page 6088 11. Remove the mid-frame, then remove the front and rear IPU braces from the junction board. 12. Disconnect the high-voltage cables from the output terminals on the junction board, and wrap them with insulating tape. 13. Remove the battery module air duct mounting bolt, then push the duct forward. 14. Remove the mounting bolts from the battery module. Disconnect the connectors and the Y condenser terminal. NOTE: After disconnection, temporarily secure the Y condenser harness on the junction board. 15. Set the battery module lifting tool on the module, and install the six knurled bolts. Page 4639 Fuel Pressure: Testing and Inspection Fuel Pressure Test Special Tools Required Fuel pressure gauge 07406-004000A M/T model: 1. Relieve the fuel pressure. 2. Remove the sealing nut from the fuel rail. Attach the fuel pressure adapter nut, 12 mm (A) and the fuel pressure gauge. 3. Disconnect the vacuum hose (C) from the fuel pressure regulator (D), and pinch it closed with a clamp (E). 4. Start the engine and let it idle. - If the engine starts, go to step 6. - If the engine does not start, go to step 5. 5. Check to see if the fuel pump is running: Remove the fuel fill cap, and hold your ear to the fuel fill port while an assistant turns the ignition switch ON (II). You should hear the pump run for about two seconds when the ignition is turned ON (II). If the fuel pump runs, make sure there is sufficient fuel in the tank, then go to step 6. - If the fuel pump does not run, test it. 6. Read the pressure gauge (with the fuel pressure regulator vacuum hose disconnected and clamped). The pressure should be 270 - 320 kPa (2.8 3.3 kgf/sq.cm, 40 - 47 psi). If the pressure is OK and engine is running, go to step 8. If the engine is not running, repair the cause, then continue this test. - If the pressure is out of spec, go to step 8. 7. With the engine running, unpinch and reconnect the vacuum hose and read the gauge again. The pressure should be 210 - 260 kPa (2.1 - 2.6 kgf/sq.cm, 30 - 37 psi). If the fuel pressure is OK, the test is complete, go to step 9. - If the pressure is out of spec, go to step 8. 8. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the pressure regulator again while you watch the pressure gauge. The pressure should rise when you disconnect the hose. If the pressure did not rise, replace the fuel pressure regulator. - If the pressure rose, but all your readings were lower than specified, check for a clogged fuel filter and for leaks in the fuel lines. - If the pressure rose, but all your readings were higher than specified, check for a pinched or clogged fuel return hose or line. 9. Reconnect the vacuum hose, remove the pressure gauge, and reinstall the sealing nut with a new washer. Tighten the sealing nut to 22 N.m (2.2 kgf.m, 16 lbf.ft). NOTE: Disassemble and clean the fuel pressure gauge attachment thoroughly after use. CVT model: 1. Relieve the fuel pressure. Page 2034 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. Page 9749 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 3649 Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Locations 17. Rear of Engine Page 786 Doors - Component Location Index Page 3819 DTC U0100 thru U1288 Disclaimer Page 1524 50. Right Side of Steering Column Page 6011 84. Middle of Floor Page 555 In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locater) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: - Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. Page 2688 Failed Part: P/N 1K000-PHM-000 Defect Code: 03214 Symptom Code: 03205 Skill Level: Repair Technician INSPECTION PROCEDURE 1. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 2. Remove the cargo floor mat (see page 20-44 of the 2000-04 Insight Service Manual). (In ISIS, use the keyword FLOOR MAT, and select Interior Trim Removal/Installation - Cargo Area from the list.) 3. Remove the battery module switch cover (two bolts), then remove the locking cover from the switch. 4. Flip the battery module switch to OFF. Reinstall the locking cover. 5. Wait at least 5 minutes to let the capacitors in the system discharge. Page 3698 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Locations Heating/Cooling Unit View Page 5151 Camshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair Replacement 1. Disconnect connectors from the camshaft position (CMP) sensor A (top dead center (TDC) sensor 1) and CMP sensor B (TDC sensor 2) Remove the CMP sensor A (TDC sensor 1) sensor (A) and the CMP sensor B (TDC sensor 2) sensor (B). 2. Install the CMP sensor A (TDC sensor 1) sensor and the CMP sensor B (TDC sensor 2) using new O-rings (C). Page 5003 Wire Color Coding Distinct Of Circuit By Wire Base Color All wires have color-coded insulation. Wires belonging to a system's main harness will have a single color. Wires belonging to a system's sub-circuits will have a colored stripe. Striped wires use the codes found in the chart to show wire size and colors. Abbreviations are used to indicate wire color within a circuit diagram. Wire Color Abbreviations The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics: WHT................................... White YEL................................... Yellow BLK................................... Black BLU................................... Blue GRN................................... Green RED................................... Red ORN................................... Orange PNK................................... Pink BRN................................... Brown GRY................................... Gray PUR................................... Purple LT BLU................................... Light Blue LT GRN................................... Light Green The wire insulation has one color or one color with another color stripe. The second color is the stripe. How to Identify Connector Terminals How to Identify Connector Terminals Page 8571 43. Under Left Side of Dash (Honda Accessory) Page 9094 Odometer: Description and Operation Speedometer and Odometer The speedometer and odometer (part of the LCD Display) are controlled by the CPU in the gauge assembly. The CPU receives a pulsing input from the vehicle speed sensor. The pulse rate increases as the car accelerates. The frequency and duration of these input pulses are measured by the CPU. The CPU controls the LCD Display to turn on the correct number of segments to indicate the vehicles speed and mileage. Refer to the Gauges System for specific tests or troubleshooting procedures. Page 5964 Vacuum Brake Booster: Adjustments Master Cylinder Pushrod Clearance Adjustment Special Tools Required Pushrod adjustment gauge 07JAG-SD40100 NOTE: Master cylinder pushrod-to-piston clearance must be checked and adjustments made, if necessary, before installing the master cylinder. 1. Set the special tool (A) on the master cylinder body (B), push in the center shaft (C) until the top of it contacts the end of the secondary piston (D) by turning the adjusting nut (E). 2. Without disturbing the center shaft's position, install the special tool (A) backwards on the booster. 3. Install the master cylinder nuts (B), and tighten to the specified torque. 4. Connect the booster in-line with a vacuum gauge (C) 0 - 101 kPa (0 - 760 mm Hg, 30 inch Hg) to the booster's engine vacuum supply, and maintain an engine speed that will deliver 66 kPa (500 mm Hg, 20 inch Hg) vacuum. 5. With a feeler gauge (A), measure the clearance between the gauge body and the adjusting nut (B) as shown. If the clearance between the gauge body and the adjusting nut is 0.4 mm (0.02 inch), the pushrod-to-piston clearance is 0 mm. However, if the clearance between the gauge body and the adjusting nut is 0 mm, the pushrod-to-piston clearance is 0.4 mm (0.02 inch) or more. Therefore it must be adjusted and rechecked. Page 9690 Wire Color Abbreviations Page 681 Page 3722 83. ELD Unit Locations 39. Upper Left Kick Panel Area Specifications Axle Nut: Specifications Front Axle Nut 22 x 1.5 mm ......................................................................................................................................... ......................... 181 Nm (18.5 kgf-m, 134 ft. lbs.) Rear Axle Nut 20 x 1.5 mm ......................................................................................................................................... ......................... 162 Nm (16.5 kgf-m, 119 ft. lbs.) Page 4317 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. Page 5020 EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 3793 11. Lift out the battery module foam insert. 12. Remove the mounting bolts for the battery condition monitor (BCM) module and the motor control module (MCM). Disconnect the electrical connectors, then remove the modules. 13. Install the new BCM and MCM. Make sure all module connectors are secure. 14. Install the IPU lid. 15. Remove the locking cover from the battery module switch, install the 5 mm bolt, turn the switch on, reinstall the locking cover, and install the battery module switch cover. 16. Install the remaining parts in the reverse order of removal. 17. Reconnect the negative cable to the under-hood 12 V battery. Page 3489 67. VTEC Oil Pressure Switch Page 2932 Page 1333 Throttle Position Sensor: Description and Operation Throttle Position (TP) Sensor The TP sensor is a potentiometer connected to the throttle valve shaft. As the throttle position changes, the sensor varies the signal voltage to the ECM. The TP sensor is not replaceable apart from the throttle body. Page 2191 Drive Belt: Adjustments Water Pump - A/C Compressor Belt With A/C Water Pump-A/C Compressor Belt Inspection and Adjustment // With A/C Special Tools Required - Belt tension gauge 07JGG-001010A Belt Tension Gauge Method Inspection 1. Remove the right rear splash shield. 2. Attach the belt tension gauge to the belt, and measure the tension. Follow the gauge manufacturer's instructions. If the belt is worn or damaged, replace it. If the belt needs adjustment, go to step 3. Adjustment 3. Loosen the idler pulley center nut (A). 4. Turn the adjusting bolt (B) to obtain the proper belt tension, then retighten the idler pulley center nut. 5. Recheck the belt tension. 6. If you installed a new belt, run the engine for five minutes, then readjust the belt to the used belt specification. Deflection Method Inspection Page 5945 1. Remove the rear console: ^ Remove the two screws. ^ Move the console forward to detach it from the hook. 2. Remove the parking brake lever: ^ Remove the adjusting nut and the spring. ^ Disconnect the parking brake switch connector. ^ Remove the two mounting bolts. 3. Install the new parking brake lever, and torque the mounting bolts to 22 Nm (16 lb-ft). 4. Connect the parking brake switch connector, then install the original spring and the adjusting nut. 5. Block the front wheels, then raise the rear of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands. 6. Pull up the parking brake lever one click. 7. Tighten the parking brake lever adjusting nut until you get a slight drag on the rear brakes when you turn the rear wheels. 8. Release the parking brake lever. If the rear wheels don't turn freely, repeat steps 6 thru 5. 9. Lower the vehicle. 10. Install the rear center console. Page 4360 Clutch Switch: Testing and Inspection Clutch Switch Signal Circuit Troubleshooting 1. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 2. Measure voltage between ECM connector terminals B14 and B20. Is there approx. 5 V? YES - Go to step 3. NO - Go to step 5. 3. Press the clutch pedal. 4. Measure voltage between ECM connector terminals B14 and B20. Is voltage less than 1.0 V? YES - Clutch switch signal is OK. NO - Go to step 12. 5. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 6. Disconnect the clutch switch 2P connector. 7. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 8. Measure voltage between ECM connector terminals B14 and B20. Is there approx. 5 V? Page 8457 On the order form, you must include the serial number of the keyless control unit or the number from one of the original transmitters. If you need a transmitter shipped overnight, fill out the order form, then call Kenwood at (500) 552-4690, or fax them at (310) 595-1029 (weekdays from 5:30A.M. thru 4:00 P.M. Pacific time). You will need to give the information on the order form to the Kenwood representative. The transmitter will be sent to your dealership COD. Additional shipping and handling charges will be applied to the order. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery number is CR1220. Each transmitter uses two batteries. 94-97 Accord 5-Door EX, 95-98 Odyssey EX 1994-97 Accord 5-door EX with factory-installed keyless entry system 1995-98 Odyssey EX with factory-installed keyless entry system Programming the Transmitter NOTE: ^ The system accepts up to two transmitters. ^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the programming mode. 1. Open the driver's door. 2. Push the driver's power door lock switch to the unlock position and hold it. (Continue to hold the switch during this procedure.) 3. Insert the key into the ignition switch, then remove it. Repeat this four more times (five times total) within 10 seconds. (You must complete steps 3 and 4 within 10 seconds or the system will exit the programming mode.) 4. Insert the key into the ignition switch. After you insert the key, make sure the power door locks cycle to confirm that the system is in the programming mode. 5. Press the "LOCK" or "UNLOCK" button on the transmitter. All the power door locks (except the driver's door) should cycle to confirm that the system accepted the transmitter's code. 6. To program a second transmitter, press its "LOCK" or "UNLOCK" button within 10 seconds of programming the first transmitter. 7. Release the master power door lock switch to exit the programming mode. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda using normal parts ordering procedures. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery number is CR2016. Each transmitter uses two batteries. 96-04 Accord, CRV, DelSOL, Ody., Prelude, S2000, Insight, Pilot 1996-02 Accord with dealer-installed security system 1998-02 Accord DX & LX with dealer-installed keyless entry system Locations Throttle Position Sensor: Locations PGM-FI System - Component Location Index Page 9046 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 8623 36. Left Side of Dash Page 1481 8. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). Move the shift lever through all gear positions, and check the transmission range switch synchronization with the A/T gear position indicator. 9. Check that the engine can start in the [P] and [N] positions, and cannot start in any other shift lever position. 10. Check that the back-up lights come on when the shift lever is in the [R] position. 11. Allow the wheels to rotate freely, then start the engine, and check the shift lever operation. Control Unit Input Test Key Reminder Switch: Testing and Inspection Control Unit Input Test Lights-on, Key-in, Seat Belt Reminder, Key Light Timer, Indicator/Reminder Systems 1. Remove the gauge assembly. 2. Disconnect the gauge assembly 30P connector A and 22P connector B. 3. Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are making good contact. - If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system. - If the terminals are OK, go to step 4. Page 3925 Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor: Description and Operation Fuel Tank Pressure (FTP) Sensor The FTP sensor converts fuel tank absolute pressure into an electrical input to the ECM. Page 4027 Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Diagnostic Aids Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Page 8805 Terminals - "T" Shielding Switches Fuses Page 2152 Valve Clearance: Adjustments Adjustment NOTE: Adjust the valves only when the cylinder head temperature is less than 100°F (38°C). 1. Remove the engine cover. 2. Remove the cylinder head cover. 3. Set the No. 1 piston at top dead center (TDC). No. 1 piston TDC mark (A) on the camshaft sprocket should align with the cylinder head surface. 4. Select the correct thickness feeler gauge for the valves you're going to check. Intake: 0.18 - 0.22 mm (0.007 - 0.009 inch) Exhaust: 0.21 - 0.25 mm (0.008 - 0.010 inch) Adjusting screw location: 5. Insert the feeler gauge (A) between the adjusting screw and the end of the valve stem and slide it back and forth; you should feel a slight amount of drag. Page 138 Wire Color Abbreviations Page 7190 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 2755 169. BCM Module Connector A - C Pressure Plate and Clutch Disc Removal Clutch Disc: Service and Repair Pressure Plate and Clutch Disc Removal Pressure Plate and Clutch Disc Removal Special Tools Required ^ Clutch alignment shaft 07JAF-PM7012A ^ Remover handle 07936-3710100 ^ Ring gear holder 07LAB-PV00100 or 07924-PD20003 ^ Driver 07749-0010000 ^ Attachment, 32 x 35 mm 07746-0010100 1. Check the diaphragm spring fingers height using the dial indicator (A). If the height is more than the service limit, replace the pressure plate. 2. Install the special tools. 3. To prevent warping, unscrew the pressure plate mounting bolts (A) in a crisscross pattern in several steps, then remove the pressure plate (B). 4. Inspect the pressure plate (A) surface for wear, cracks, and burning. 5. Inspect the fingers of the diaphragm spring (B) for wear at the release bearing contact area. Page 4338 5. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). Measure voltage between body ground and PGM-FI main relay (fuel pump) 4P connector terminal No.2, and between PGM-FI main relay (IGP) 4P connector terminal No.4. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 7. NO - Go to step 6. 6. Check for a blown No.2 (15 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box. Is the fuse blown? YES - Repair the short in the wire between PGM-FI main relay and the No.2 fuse. NO - Repair the open in the wire between the PGM-FI main relay and the No.2 (15 A) fuse. 7. Turn the ignition switch OFF, and disconnect ECM connector A (32P). 8. Check for continuity between PGM-FI main relay (fuel pump) 4P connector terminal No.3 and ECM connector terminal A15. Is there continuity? YES - Go to step 9. NO - Repair open in the wire between the PGM-FI main relay and the ECM (A15). 9. Reconnect ECM connector A (32P) and the PGM-FI main relay connectors. Page 8577 Power Door Locks - Component Location Index Page 4953 Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow from power at the top of the diagram to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another for example is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors Page 4446 94. TP Sensor Page 9059 46. Ignition Key Switch/Key Light M/T, CVT Page 7227 53. Right Side of Steering Column Page 1862 Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow from power at the top of the diagram to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another for example is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors Page 1170 Wires Page 5704 116. PGM-FI Main Relay And A/T Reverse Relay (CVT) Page 9495 4. Make these input tests at the connector. - If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system. - If all the input tests prove OK, the control unit must be faulty; replace it. Diagram Information and Instructions Cigarette Lighter: Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System Terminal Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown below is #6. Page 7618 Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Description and Operation Definitions Air Bag An inflatable cloth cushion designed to deploy in certain frontal crashes. It supplements the protection offered by the seat belts by distributing the impact load more evenly over the vehicle occupant's head and torso. Asynchronous Performed in a nonperiodic fashion, (i.e., no defined time or interval). (B+) Battery voltage, (B+) The voltage available at the battery at the time of the indicated measurement. With the key "ON" and the engine not running, the system voltage will likely be between 12 and 12.5 volts. At idle the voltage may be 14 to 16 volts. The voltage could be as low as 10 volts during engine cranking. Bulb Check The SDM will cause the "AIR BAG" warning lamp to flash seven times and then go "OFF" whenever the ignition switch transitions to the ON position from any other ignition switch position and no malfunctions are detected. "CONTINUOUS MONITORING" Tests performed by the SDM on the SRS every 100 milliseconds while "Ignition 1" voltage is in the normal operating voltage range at the SDM. Data Link Connector (DLC) Formerly "DLC" a connector which allows communication with an external computer, such as a scan tool. Datum Line A base line parallel to the plane of the underbody or frame from which all vertical measurements originate. Deploy To inflate the air bag. Deployment Loops The circuits which supply current to the air bag assemblies to deploy the air bag. Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) Formerly "Code", a numerical designator used by the SDM to indicate specific SRS malfunctions. Driver Current Source An output of the SDM which applies current into the driver air bag assembly circuit during the "Initiator Assembly Resistance Test". Driver Air Bag Assembly An assembly located in the steering wheel hub consisting of an inflatable bag, an inflator and an initiator. EEPROM Electronically Erasable Programmable Read Only Memory. Memory which retains its contents when power is removed from the SDM. Ignition Cycle The voltage at the SDM "Ignition 1" inputs, with ignition switch "ON", is within the normal operating voltage range for at least ten seconds before turning ignition switch "OFF". Ignition 1 Page 3238 Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow from power at the top of the diagram to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another for example is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors Page 8674 Trunk / Liftgate Switch: Testing and Inspection Hatch Lock Actuator/Latch Switch/Unlock Switch Test 1. Open the hatch and remove the rear trim panel. 2. Disconnect the 6P connector (A) from the hatch lock actuator (B). Actuator Test: 3. Check actuator operation by connecting battery power and grounding according to the table. To prevent damage to the actuator, apply battery voltage only momentarily. Latch Switch Test: 4. Check for continuity between terminal No. 3 and terminal No. 6. - With the hatch open, there should be continuity. - With the hatch closed, there should be no continuity. Unlock Switch Test: 5. Check for continuity between terminal No. 1 and terminal No. 2. - With the hatch unlocked, there should be continuity. - With the hatch locked, there should be no continuity. 6. If the tests don't work as specified, replace the hatch latch assembly. Page 8626 Power Mirror Switch: Service and Repair Power Mirror Switch Test/Replacement 1. Remove the instrument panel. 2. Disconnect the 10P connector (A) from the power mirror switch (B). 3. Check for continuity between the terminals in switch position according to the table. 4. If the continuity is not as specified, remove the two screws and replace the switch. Locations 101. Left Front Side of Battery Module Component Locations 100. Left Front Side of Battery Module Page 3174 In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locater) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: - Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. Page 1863 All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416 etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector or by a capital letter (A, B, C etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Connector Views that shows the connector terminals wire colors connector cavity numbers and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints shown on diagram [8] . Except for the DLC (data link connector) disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554 for example means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Page 3808 DTC P0158 thru P0400 Service and Repair Front Door Latch: Service and Repair Door Latch Replacement NOTE: - Put on gloves to protect your hands. - Take care not to scratch the door - Take care not to bend each rod. 1. Remove the outer handle. 2. Remove the door latch in the numbered sequence. 3. Install the latch in the reverse order of removal, and note these items - Make sure the actuator connectors are plugged in properly, and each rod is connected securely - Make sure the door locks and opens properly - When reinstalling the door panel, make sure the plastic cover is installed properly and sealed around its perimeter. Page 4241 PARTS INFORMATION Engine Control Module: P/N 06380-PHM-A00, H/C 6441117 WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Carefully remove the passenger's side door sill trim. 2. Remove the two carpet hold-down clips on the door sill. 3. Remove the carpet hold-down clip in the passenger's footwell under the glove box. Pull back the carpet. 4. Remove the ECM cover mounting nuts. 5. Pivot the lower edge of the ECM cover off the mounting studs. Lift the upper edge of the cover off the mounting studs, then pull the cover down and back so it clears the evaporator drain tube. 6. Remove the two bolts mounting the ECM to the cover. Disconnect the ECM connectors. 7. Install the new ECM in the reverse order of removal. 8. Reinstall the carpet and the door sill trim. Locations Throttle Position Sensor: Locations PGM-FI System - Component Location Index Service and Repair Skid Plate: Service and Repair Front Floor Under Cover Replacement NOTE: - IMA wires are located in this area. Make sure you read the Service Precautions before performing repair or service. - Take care not to scratch the body. 1. Remove the front floor under cover as shown. 2. Install the front floor under cover in the reverse order of removal, and check for damaged or stress-whitened clips, and replace them with new ones. Page 2421 Coolant: Fluid Type Specifications Fluid Type .......................................................................................... MAX mark with Honda All Season Antifreeze/Coolant Type 2 (P/N OL 999-9001) Page 1082 - Do not fold over the lower part of the suction filter (C). - When installing the fuel gauge sending unit (A), make sure the connection is secure and the connector is firmly locked into place. Be careful not to bend or twist it excessively. Page 2030 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Page 8586 180. Unlock Relay (Honda Accessory) Page 6568 174. Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box Part 2 Page 12 Connectors - "C" Page 5793 Terminals - "T" Shielding Switches Fuses Page 9343 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 7747 Anchor Bolt Construction Page 7856 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: Page 1639 Ignition System - Component Location Index Page 8880 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. Locations Turn Signal Lamp: Locations 121. Above Right Front Wheel Well 123. Above Left Front Wheel Well Page 4922 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. Page 7533 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: Page 8828 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. Page 9098 125. Below Front of Engine Page 4421 89. MAP Sensor Page 3295 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 5509 Axle Shaft: Service and Repair Removal Special Tool Required - Ball joint remover, 28 mm 07MAC-SL00200 1. Loosen the wheel nuts slightly. 2. Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. Page 9398 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Hybrid System - IMA Indicator ON/DTC's P1447/P1449 Battery Condition Monitor: All Technical Service Bulletins Hybrid System - IMA Indicator ON/DTC's P1447/P1449 04-028 March 16, 2011 Applies To: 2000-04 Insight - ALL IMA System Indicator On With IMA DTC 77 (P1447) or DTC 78 (P1449) (Supersedes 04-028, dated April 30, 2010, to revise the information marked by the black bars and asterisks) *REVISION SUMMARY Under WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION, some operation number and flat rate time information was changed.* PROBLEM The IMA system indicator comes on and IMA DTC 77 (P1447) (battery module deterioration) or DTC 78 (P1449) (battery module deterioration) is set. CORRECTIVE ACTION Replace the battery module. Inspect the motor control module (MCM) and the battery condition monitor (BCM) to determine if they also need to be replaced. PARTS INFORMATION WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION The normal warranty applies. NOTE: IMA components (battery module, battery condition monitor, and motor control module) are covered under warranty for 8 years or 80,000 miles, whichever comes first. Page 4066 YES - Replace the sensor that restored about 5 V when disconnected. NO - Go to step 49. 49. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 50. Disconnect the 3P connectors from the following sensors. - Exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) valve position sensor - Brake booster pressure sensor - Fuel tank pressure (FTP) sensor - Throttle position (TP) sensor 51. Disconnect ECM connector C (31P). 52. Check for continuity between ECM connector terminal C28 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Repair short in the wire between the ECM (C28) and the EGR valve position sensor, brake booster pressure sensor, FTP sensor, or TP sensor. NO - Update the ECM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM, replace the original ECM. 53. Measure voltage between body ground and ECM connector terminal B6. Is there about 5 V? YES - Update the ECM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM, replace the original ECM. NO - Go to step 54. 54. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 55. Disconnect the TCM 22P connector. 56. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). Page 2093 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. Page 8742 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Removal and Installation Engine Control Module: Service and Repair Removal and Installation How to Remove the ECM for Testing NOTE: - Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the radio, then write down the frequencies for the radio's preset buttons before you disconnect the negative cable from the battery. - Enter the anti-theft code, then the customer's radio station presets, and set the clock after you reconnect the negative cable to the battery. 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. 2. Pull the passenger's side carpet back to expose the ECM (A). 3. Unbolt the ECM cover (B). 4. Lift the lower edge of the ECM cover off of the lower studs. Make sure the ECM is not touching the studs. 5. Lift the upper edge of the ECM cover enough to clear the upper studs, then pull the cover down away from the evaporator drain tube. 6. Unbolt the ECM from the cover. 7. Disconnect the ECM connectors. 8. Install the ECM in reverse order of removal. 9. Do the ECM idle learn procedure Diagram Information and Instructions Dome Lamp: Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System Terminal Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown below is #6. Page 9197 Wire Color Coding Distinct Of Circuit By Wire Base Color All wires have color-coded insulation. Wires belonging to a system's main harness will have a single color. Wires belonging to a system's sub-circuits will have a colored stripe. Striped wires use the codes found in the chart to show wire size and colors. Abbreviations are used to indicate wire color within a circuit diagram. Wire Color Abbreviations The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics: WHT................................... White YEL................................... Yellow BLK................................... Black BLU................................... Blue GRN................................... Green RED................................... Red ORN................................... Orange PNK................................... Pink BRN................................... Brown GRY................................... Gray PUR................................... Purple LT BLU................................... Light Blue LT GRN................................... Light Green The wire insulation has one color or one color with another color stripe. The second color is the stripe. How to Identify Connector Terminals How to Identify Connector Terminals Page 10051 Wires Page 2480 Part 1 Of 2 Page 2021 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: - Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest OHMS" range. Diagram Information and Instructions Control Module HVAC: Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System Terminal Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown below is #6. Diagram Information and Instructions Vanity Lamp: Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System Terminal Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown below is #6. Page 498 Diodes How to Identify Wiring Color-Coded Insulation Wire Color Page 2689 6. Remove the right trunk shelf support (five clips and two bolts). 7. Remove the six mid-frame cover bolts. Remove the intelligent power unit (IPU) lid (17 bolts). 8. Measure the voltage at the junction board terminals. There should be 30 V or less. If you read more than 30 V, there is a problem in the circuit; do the DTC troubleshooting first. 9. Look at the part number on the motor control module (MCM), and refer to this chart. If there is a replacement part number listed for it, you need to order a replacement MCM. 10. Look at the part number on the battery condition monitor (BCM). If the part number is not 1K100-PHM-A01, you need to order a replacement BCM. Page 5208 204. TCM (CVT) Page 4982 Fuel Pump Relay: Testing and Inspection PGM-FI Main Relay Test PGM-FI Main Relay Test Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No.3 and No.4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals when power is disconnected. Page 2032 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. Page 2938 CORRECTIVE ACTION Based on the model and/or model year, install the appropriate IMA repair kit or part. WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Turn the ignition switch to the LOCK (0 position). 2. Remove cargo floor mat: ^ Refer to page 20-44 of the 2000-2006 Insight Service Manual, or ^ Online, enter keywords FLOOR MAT, then select Interior Trim Removal/Installation - Cargo Area from the list. 3. Remove the battery module switch cover (two bolts), then remove the locking cover from the switch. Page 9757 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. Page 7148 NO - Go to step 9. 9. Turn the ignition switch ON(II), and check the same terminals for voltage. Is there any voltage? YES - Repair any short to power in the wire(s) between the climate control unit and the mode control motor. This short may also damage the climate control unit. Repair the short to power before replacing the climate control unit. NO - Go to step 10. 10. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 11. Check for continuity between the following terminals of climate control unit connector B (22P) and the mode control motor 7P connector. 22P: 7P: No.6 No.7 No.9 No.6 No.10 No.5 No.20 No.2 No.21 No.3 No.22 No.4 Is there continuity? YES - Check for loose wires or poor connections at climate control unit connector B (22P) and at mode control motor 7P connector. If the connections are good, substitute a known-good climate control unit, and recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away, replace the original climate control unit. NO - Repair any open in the wire(s) between the climate control unit and the mode control motor. 12. Remove the mode control motor. 13. Check the mode control linkage and doors for smooth movement. Do the mode control linkage and doors move smoothly? YES - Replace the mode control motor. Locations Knock Sensor: Locations PGM-FI System - Component Location Index Specifications Fuel Injector: Specifications Information not provided by the manufacturer. Component Locations Power Door Lock Switch: Component Locations Power Door Locks - Component Location Index Page 5566 5. Drive the new ball bearing into the flywheel using the special tools as shown. Apply a light coat of oil to the bearing surface. 6. Install the sensor disc. 7. Align the hole (A) in the flywheel with the crankshaft dowel pin (B), and install the flywheel (C). Install the mounting bolts finger-tight. Page 400 DTC P0401 thru P0562 Service and Repair Thermal Limiting Fuse: Service and Repair Compressor Thermal Protector Replacement 1. Remove the bolt, the ground terminal (A) and the holder (B). Disconnect the field coil connector (C), then remove the thermal protector (D). 2. Replace the thermal protector (A) with a new one, and apply silicone sealant (B) to the bottom of the thermal protector. 3. Install the protector in the reverse order of removal. Page 722 Steering Control Module: Service and Repair EPS Control Unit Removal/Installation 1. Write down the frequencies for the radio preset buttons. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. 2. Remove the right kick panel. 3. Remove the EPS control unit and the power relay. 4. Disconnect the EPS control unit connectors and power relay connector. 5. Install the EPS control unit in the reverse order of removal. 6. Reconnect the battery cable and do the following: 1. Power window control unit reset procedure. 2. Reset the radio station presets. 3. Set the clock. Page 6385 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: - Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest OHMS" range. Page 6355 Multiple Junction Connector: Service and Repair Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Page 3866 Engine Control Module: Locations PGM-FI System - Component Location Index Campaign - Integrated Motor Assist Controller Update Technical Service Bulletin # 01-102 Date: 011127 Campaign - Integrated Motor Assist Controller Update 01-102 November 27, 2001 Applies To: 2000-01 Insight with M/T - See VEHICLES AFFECTED Product Update: IMA Controller Modification BACKGROUND The IMA (Integrated Motor Assist) system supplies power to various 12-volt loads on the vehicle (lights, radio, windows, etc.) and assists the engine to improve vehicle performance. In very cold weather, power demands on the IMA battery module can exceed output, causing permanent damage to the battery module. VEHICLES AFFECTED Not all 2000-01 Insights with M/T are affected by this product update. Only vehicles that are registered and normally driven in cold weather areas are affected. Before you begin, verify that the vehicle is registered in one of the states affected by the update (see the map). Then check for vehicle eligibility by doing one of the following. ^ Verify that the customer has a notification letter. ^ Check the vehicle's VIN on your campaign responsibility report. ^ Do a VIN status inquiry on DCS. CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION All owners of affected vehicles will be sent a notification of this product update. An example of the customer notification. CORRECTIVE ACTION Replace the battery condition monitor (BCM) module and the motor control module (MCM). PARTS INFORMATION Page 449 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. Page 787 77. Rear of Driver's Door Locations Refrigerant Pressure Sensor / Switch: Locations Climate Control - Component Location Index Page 9549 Terminals - "T" Shielding Switches Fuses Page 7470 Refrigerant: Service and Repair System Evacuation CAUTION : - Air conditioning refrigerant or lubricant vapor can irritate your eyes, nose, or throat. - Be careful when connecting service equipment. - Do not breathe refrigerant or vapor. Use only service equipment that is U.L.-listed and is certified to meet the requirements of SAE J2210 to remove HFC-134a (R-134a) from the air conditioning system. If accidental system discharge occurs, ventilate work area before resuming service. Additional health and safety information may be obtained from the refrigerant and lubricant manufacturers. 1. When an A/C system has been opened to the atmosphere, such as during installation or repair, it must be evacuated using a R-134a refrigerant recovery/recycling/charging station (If the system has been open for several days, the receiver/dryer should be replaced, and the system should be evacuated for several hours.) 2. Connect a R-134 refrigerant recovery/recycling/charging station (A) to the high-pressure service port (B) and the low-pressure service port (C), as shown, following the equipment manufacturer's instructions. Evacuate the system. 3. If the low-pressure does not reach more than 93.3 kPa (700 mm Hg, 27.6 in.Hg) in 15 minutes, there is probably a leak in the system. Partially charge the system, and check for leaks. Page 3972 Connectors - "C" Page 9010 Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Service and Repair Connector Disconnection / Connection Disconnecting System Connectors Before removing the airbag or SRS related devices (the SRS unit, the cable reel and the seat belt tensioner connector), disconnecting connectors from SRS related devices, or removing the dashboard or the steering column, disconnect the airbag connectors and seat belt tensioner connectors to prevent accidental deployment. Turn the ignition switch OFF, disconnect the negative cable from the battery, and wait at least 3 minutes before beginning the following procedures. - Before disconnecting the SRS unit connector A (18P) (A) from the SRS unit, disconnect both airbag 2P connectors (C, D) and both seat belt tensioner 2P connectors (E, F). - Before disconnecting the cable reel 2P connector (B), disconnect the driver's airbag 2P connector (C). 1. Disconnect the battery negative cable, and wait at least three minutes. Driver's Airbag 2. Remove the access panel from the steering wheel, then disconnect the driver's airbag 2P connector (A) from the cable reel. Passenger's Airbag Page 1913 64. Check for continuity between ECM connector terminal B17 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Repair short in the wire between the DLC and the ECM (B17). NO - Update the ECM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM, replace the original ECM. 65. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 66. Disconnect ECM connector B (25P). 67. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). Is the MIL on? YES - Repair short in the wire between the gauge assembly and the ECM (B17). If the wires are OK, replace the gauge assembly. NO - Update the ECM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM, replace the original ECM. Page 8867 Dimmer Switch: Diagnostic Aids Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Testing and Inspection Fuel Cut Control Unit: Testing and Inspection Fuel Cut Relay Test / Normally-Open Type A Fuel Cut/PGM-FI Main - Relay 1. Turn the battery module switch OFF, and measure the voltage. 2. Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No.3 and No.4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals when power is disconnected. Page 5681 50. Neutral Position Switch (M/T) Tires - Tubless Tire Repair Information Tires: Technical Service Bulletins Tires - Tubless Tire Repair Information 06-082 December 15, 2006 Applies To: ALL Tubeless Tire Repair Information This service bulletin provides the resource information required to repair tubeless tires on Honda automobiles and light trucks. To properly repair a tire, follow the Rubber Manufacturers Association (RMA) "Puncture Repair Procedures for Passenger and Light Truck Tires" outlined on the RMA wall poster. One wall poster has been provided to your dealership. Additional posters can be ordered through Helm, the RMA website, www.rma.org, or the tire manufacturers. Michelin(R) PAX System(TM), tires can be repaired using the same repair procedures described on the RMA poster. Whenever you repair a PAX System tire, you must inspect the support ring. Refer to the PAX System support ring section of this service bulletin for inspection procedures. WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION Refer to the tire manufacturer for warranty information. REQUIRED MATERIALS ^ 1/8 inch Patch-plug with lead wire ^ 1/4 inch Patch-plug with lead wire ^ 1/8 inch Plugs (stem)* ^ 1/4 inch Plugs (stem)* ^ 1/4 inch Patches* ^ 3/4 inch Patches* ^ Chemical cement ^ Liquid buffer ^ Rim-bead sealer ^ Inner liner sealer REQUIRED TOOLS ^ Tire stitcher, 1-1/2 inch wheel ^ Tire crayons ^ Tire test tank ^ Awl or probe ^ Flexible blade skiving knife ^ 1/8 inch Carbide tire tool with adapter ^ 1/4 inch Carbide tire tool with adapter ^ Low speed buffer with quick release chuck and exhaust hose ^ Carbide buffing wheel with adapter Page 6431 Wire Color Coding Distinct Of Circuit By Wire Base Color All wires have color-coded insulation. Wires belonging to a system's main harness will have a single color. Wires belonging to a system's sub-circuits will have a colored stripe. Striped wires use the codes found in the chart to show wire size and colors. Abbreviations are used to indicate wire color within a circuit diagram. Wire Color Abbreviations The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics: WHT................................... White YEL................................... Yellow BLK................................... Black BLU................................... Blue GRN................................... Green RED................................... Red ORN................................... Orange PNK................................... Pink BRN................................... Brown GRY................................... Gray PUR................................... Purple LT BLU................................... Light Blue LT GRN................................... Light Green The wire insulation has one color or one color with another color stripe. The second color is the stripe. How to Identify Connector Terminals How to Identify Connector Terminals Page 10152 Rear Window Defogger - Component Location Index Page 7917 Programming the Transmitter NOTES: ^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased. ^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the programming mode. ^ You must complete steps 1-6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from exiting the programming mode. 1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter can be used for this step.) 3. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 4. Repeat steps 1, 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2. 5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode. 7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted the transmitter's code. 8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda using normal parts ordering procedures. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery. 88-91 Prelude With Dealer-Installed Security System 1988-91 Prelude with dealer-installed security system Page 7329 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. Page 1995 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. Locations Shift Indicator: Locations Component Location Index Recall - Emissions/ECM Replacement Technical Service Bulletin # 02-081 Date: 021217 Recall - Emissions/ECM Replacement 02-081 December 17, 2002 Applies To: 2000 Insight - ALL 2001 Insight with M/T - ALL Emissions Recall: Insight ECM BACKGROUND The ECM does not correctly identify all malfunctions of the air/fuel ratio sensor (sensor 1). Because of this, the vehicle does not meet state and federal emissions regulations. CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION All owners of affected vehicles will be mailed a notification of this campaign. The customer notification letter is shown in this service bulletin. CORRECTIVE ACTION Replace the ECM. After you replace the ECM, reinitialize the immobilizer system, and do the idle learn procedure. PARTS INFORMATION WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION Operation Number: 122124 Flat Rate Time: 1.0 hour Failed Part: P/N 37820-PHM-A01 H/C 6344626 Defect Code: 5BL Contention Code: L78 Skill Level: Repair Technician REPAIR PROCEDURE NOTE: Make sure you have all of your customer's keys. 1. Carefully remove the passenger's door sill trim. If you break any of the trim clips, replace them (P/N 91560-S06-003, H/C 6353502). Page 358 ECU Module Kit: P/N 06060-PHM-305, H/C 6912901 WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION Operation Number: 118121 Flat Rate Time: 0.8 hour Failed Part: P/N 1K100-PHM-010 H/C 6377170 Defect Code: 5AG Contention Code: L43 Template ID: 01-102A Skill Level: Repair Technician Disclaimer Repair Procedure 1. Write down the radio station presets. 2. Make sure the ignition switch is off, then disconnect the negative cable from the under-hood 12 V battery. 3. Remove the cargo floor mat and the cargo box (see page 20-43 of the 2000 Insight Service Manual). 4. Remove the battery module switch cover, then remove the locking cover from the switch. 5. Turn off the battery module switch. Reinstall the locking cover on the switch, and remove the 5 mm bolt on the side of the switch. 6. Wait at least 5 minutes for the capacitors in the system to discharge. Page 4413 7. Front of Engine Page 8446 Page 2828 8. Measure voltage at the junction board terminals. There should be 10.0 V or less. If voltage is present, there is a problem in the circuit; do the DTC troubleshooting first. Page 5608 Mainshaft: Testing and Inspection Mainshaft Inspection Inspect the gear surface and bearing surface for wear and damage, then measure the mainshaft at points A, B, C and D. If any part of the mainshaft is less than the service limit, replace it with a new one. Page 1313 16. Rear of Engine Page 4923 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. Page 9119 Cavity Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity / terminal shown is # 6. Circuit Schematics Page 4794 Fuel Shut-off Solenoid Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relay Test Normally-open type A: 1. Turn the battery module switch OFF, and measure the voltage. 2. Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is disconnected. A/C compressor clutch relay - Air fuel ratio sensor relay - Condenser fan relay - Daytime running lights relay (Canada) - Headlight relay 1 - Headlight relay 2 - High speed battery module fan control relay - High speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - High voltage conductor control relay - Horn relay - Ignition hold relay - Low speed battery module fan control relay - Low speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - Power window relay - Radiator fan relay - Rear window defogger relay - Reverse relay - Starter cut relay - Taillight relay Page 1435 Neutral Safety Switch: Description and Operation Neutral Position Switch (M/T model) The neutral position switch signals the ECM when the transmission is shifted out of neutral. Page 7406 65. Behind Glove Box Page 1020 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Diagnostic Aids Fuel Tank Unit: Diagnostic Aids Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Page 3554 Knock Sensor: Description and Operation Knock Sensor The knock control system adjusts the ignition timing to minimize knock. Specifications Camshaft Gear/Sprocket: Specifications Crankshaft Gear/Sprocket Align A & B (A) TDC Mark (B) Pulser Plate, (A) Install the cam chain with the colored piece (A) align with punch mark (B) on the crankshaft sprocket Page 825 Trunk / Liftgate Switch: Diagnostic Aids Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Page 10128 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. Emissions/Engine Controls - MIL ON/DTC P1457 (EVAP) Engine Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins Emissions/Engine Controls - MIL ON/DTC P1457 (EVAP) 03-001 January 28, 2003 Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED MIL Comes On With DTC P1457: EVAP Bypass Solenoid Valve Failure SYMPTOM The MIL is on, and DTC P1457 [leak detected in EVAP control system (EVAP control canister system)] is set. PROBABLE CAUSE The EVAP bypass solenoid valve can fail due to corrosion. The solenoid valve may get water inside. If the water contains road salt, the solenoid windings could corrode, causing the valve to fail. In a few rare instances, the corrosion could be severe enough to cause an internal short in the solenoid valve, which could damage the ECM/PCM. If this happens, both the bypass solenoid valve and the ECM/PCM would need to be replaced. Vehicles driven in the Northeastern part of the U.S. are more likely to have this problem because of the salting of roads during the winter months. Vehicles driven where salt is not used on the roads are much less likely to have this problem. VEHICLES AFFECTED 1998-02 Accord 1998-00 Civic 1998-01 CR-V 2000-02 Insight 1999-03 Odyssey 2003 Pilot 2000-03 S2000 CORRECTIVE ACTION Test and, if necessary, replace the EVAP bypass solenoid valve. Replace the ECM/PCM if needed. PARTS INFORMATION Refer to the parts catalog for the appropriate part number and Honda code. WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Failed Part: EVAP Bypass Solenoid Valve: Technician Safety Information Air Bag Control Module: Technician Safety Information Be careful not to bump or impact the SRS unit or the side impact sensors whenever the ignition switch is ON (II), or at least for three minutes after the ignition switch is turned OFF. During installation or replacement, be careful not to bump (by impact wrench, hammer, etc.) the area around the SRS unit and the side impact sensor. The airbags could accidentally deploy and cause damage or injury. After a collision in which the airbags were deployed, replace the SRS unit. After a collision in which the side airbag was deployed, replace the side impact sensor on the side where the side airbag deployed and the SRS unit. After a collision in which the airbags or the side airbags did not deploy, inspect for any damage or any deformation on the SRS unit and the side impact sensors. If there is any damage, replace the SRS unit and/or the side impact sensors. Do not disassemble the SRS unit or the side impact sensors. Turn the ignition switch OFF, disconnect the battery negative cable and wait at least three minutes before beginning installation or replacement of the SRS unit, and disconnect the connectors from the SRS unit. Be sure the SRS unit and side impact sensors are installed securely with the mounting bolts torqued to 9.8 Nm (1.0 kg.m, 7.2 lb.ft) Do not spill water or oil on the SRS unit or the side impact sensors and keep them away from dust. Store the SRS unit and the side impact sensors in a cool (less than 104°F / 40°C) and dry (less than 80% relative humidity, no moisture) area. Page 9575 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Component Locations Keyless Entry Module: Component Locations 38. Under Left Side of Dash 43. Under Left Side of Dash (Honda Accessory) Page 267 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. Locations 19. Rear of Transmission (M/T) Page 938 52. Outside Air Temperature Sensor Specifications Water Pump: Specifications Water pump belt Deflection with 98 N (9 kgf, 22 lbs.) applied mid-way between pulleys Without A/C Used belt ............................................................................................................................................................. 8.5 - 11.0 mm (0.33 - 0.43 inch) New belt .............................................................................................................................................................. 7.0 - 10.0 mm (0.28 - 0.39 inch) Tension (measured with belt tension gauges) Without A/C Used belt .................................................................................................................................................. 340 490 N (35 - 50 kgf, 77 - 110 lbs.) New belt ................................................................................................................................................... 440 640 N (45 - 65 kgf, 99 - 143 lbs.) (With A/C, see compressor belt in the A/C table) NOTE: Adjust a new belt to the new belt spec, run the engine for 5 minutes, then adjust it to the used belt spec. Locations 6. Front of Engine Page 546 Splices Components Ground - "G" Page 6801 125. EPS Torque Sensor Page 4761 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: Page 2678 ECU Module Kit: P/N 06060-PHM-305, H/C 6912901 WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION Operation Number: 118121 Flat Rate Time: 0.8 hour Failed Part: P/N 1K100-PHM-010 H/C 6377170 Defect Code: 5AG Contention Code: L43 Template ID: 01-102A Skill Level: Repair Technician Disclaimer Repair Procedure 1. Write down the radio station presets. 2. Make sure the ignition switch is off, then disconnect the negative cable from the under-hood 12 V battery. 3. Remove the cargo floor mat and the cargo box (see page 20-43 of the 2000 Insight Service Manual). 4. Remove the battery module switch cover, then remove the locking cover from the switch. 5. Turn off the battery module switch. Reinstall the locking cover on the switch, and remove the 5 mm bolt on the side of the switch. 6. Wait at least 5 minutes for the capacitors in the system to discharge. Page 3415 Crankshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair Replacement 1. Disconnect the CKP sensor connector, then remove the CKP sensor (A). 2. Install the CKP sensor using a new O-ring (B). Page 5233 130. Transmission Housing (CVT) Page 6500 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. Page 6474 Wires Page 6438 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: - Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest OHMS" range. Page 1401 7. Front of Engine Testing and Inspection Oxygen Sensor Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relay Test Normally-open type A: 1. Turn the battery module switch OFF, and measure the voltage. 2. Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is disconnected. A/C compressor clutch relay - Air fuel ratio sensor relay - Condenser fan relay - Daytime running lights relay (Canada) - Headlight relay 1 - Headlight relay 2 - High speed battery module fan control relay - High speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - High voltage conductor control relay - Horn relay - Ignition hold relay - Low speed battery module fan control relay - Low speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - Power window relay - Radiator fan relay - Rear window defogger relay - Reverse relay - Starter cut relay Page 3181 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 5514 9. Connect the front stabilizer link (A) and front stabilizer (B). Hold the stabilizer link ball joint pin (C) with a hex wrench (D), and tighten the new flange nut (E). 10. Install anew spindle nut (A), then tighten the nut. After tightening, use a drift to stake the spindle nut shoulder (B) against the driveshaft. 11. Clean the mating surfaces of the brake disc and the front wheel (C), then install the front wheel with the wheel nuts (D). Install the center cap (E). 12. Refill the transmission with recommended MTF. Refer to Manual Transmission Fluid. 13. Check the front wheel alignment, and adjust it if necessary. Page 480 Procedure 1. Connect the scan tool to the vehicle's data link connector (DLC), and bring up the tool's generic OBD II mode. 2. Start the engine. 3. Test-drive the vehicle under stop-and-go conditions with short periods of steady cruise. During the drive, decelerate (with the throttle fully closed) for 5 seconds. After about 3.5 miles (5.6 km), the readiness code should switch from incomplete to complete. 4. If the readiness code is still set to incomplete, check for a temporary DTC. If there is no DTC, the enable criteria was probably not met; repeat the procedure. Air/Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor Heater Monitor Readiness Code NOTE: All readiness codes are cleared when the battery is disconnected or when the ECM is cleared with the OBD II scan tool or Honda PGM Tester. Procedure 1. Connect the scan tool to the vehicle's data link connector (DLC), and bring up the tool's generic OBD II mode. 2. Start the engine, and let it idle for 1 minute. The readiness code should switch from incomplete to complete. 3. If the readiness code is still set to incomplete, check for a temporary DTC. If there is no DTC, repeat the procedure. Misfire Monitor and Readiness Code - This readiness code is always set to available because misfiring is continuously monitored. - Monitoring pauses, and the misfire counter resets, if the vehicle is driven over a rough road. - Monitoring also pauses, and the misfire counter holds at its current value, if the throttle position changes more than a predetermined value, or if driving conditions fall outside the range of any related enable criteria. Fuel System Monitor and Readiness Code - This readiness code is always set to available because the fuel system is continuously monitored during closed loop operation. - Monitoring pauses when the catalytic converter, EVAP control system, and A/F sensor monitors are active. - Monitoring also pauses when any related enable criteria are not being met. Monitoring resumes when the enable criteria is again being met. Comprehensive Component Monitor and Readiness Code This readiness code is always set to available because the comprehensive component monitor is continuously running whenever the engine is cranking or running. EGR Monitor and Readiness Code NOTE: - Do not turn the ignition switch off during the procedure. - All readiness codes are cleared when the battery is disconnected or when the ECM is cleared with the OBD II scan tool or Honda PGM Tester. Enable Criteria - ECT at 176 °F (80 °C) or higher Procedure 1. Connect the scan tool to the vehicle's data link connector (DLC), and bring up the tool's generic OBD II mode. 2. Start the engine. 3. Drive at a steady speed with the CVT in D position or M/T in 4th gear, 50 - 62 mph (80 - 100 km/h) or above for more than 10 seconds. 4. With the CVT in D position or M/T in 4th gear, decelerate from 62 mph (100 km/h) or above by completely releasing the throttle for at least 5 seconds. If the engine is stopped during this procedure, go to step 3 and do the procedure again. 5. If the readiness code is still set to incomplete, check for a temporary DTC. If there is no DTC, the enable criteria was probably not met; repeat the procedure. Page 8858 Connectors - "C" Specifications Brake Drum: Specifications Brake drum I.D. Rear Standard or New ........................................................................................................................................ 179.9 180.0 mm (7.083 - 7.087 inch) Service Limit ....................................................................................... .............................................................................. 181.0 mm (7.126 inch) Page 6497 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. Page 6688 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 6939 Key Reminder Switch: Testing and Inspection Ignition Key Switch Test Ignition Key Switch Test SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations, precautions, and procedures before performing repairs or service. 1. Remove the driver's pocket. 2. Disconnect the 2P connector from the dashboard wire harness B. 3. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position. - With the ignition key inserted, there should be continuity. - With the ignition key removed, there should be no continuity. 4. If the continuity is not as specified, replace the steering lock assembly. Component Locations Openers - Component Location Index Locations 86. Behind Seat, Middle of Floor Page 8755 Lights-on,key-in,and Seat Belt Reminders Image 73-1 Page 1830 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: Page 8918 EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 2457 4. Connect a jumper wire between radiator fan relay 4Psocketterminal No. 1 and No. 2. Does the radiator fan run? YES- Go to step 5. NO- Repair an open in the BLU/BLK wire between the under-hood fuse/relay box and the radiator fan. 5. Disconnect the jumper wire, and turn the ignition switch ON (II). Check for voltage between radiator fan relay 4P socket terminal No. 3 and body ground. Is the battery voltage? YES- Go to step 6. NO- Check for an open in the BLK/YEL wire between the under-hood fuse/relay box and the under-dash fuse/relay box. 6. Reinstall the radiator fan relay. 7. Disconnect the radiator fan switch 2P connector, then connect a jumper wire between terminal No. 1 and No. 2. Does the fan run? YES- Replace the radiator fan switch. NO- Go to step 8. Page 626 116. PGM-FI Main Relay And A/T Reverse Relay (CVT) Page 10082 Page 9205 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. Page 8633 Power Trunk / Liftgate Lock Switch: Testing and Inspection Hatch Opener Switch Test 1. Open the hatch and remove the hatch trim panel. 2. Disconnect the 2P connector (A) from the hatch opener switch. 3. Check for continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals. - With the switch lever pulled, there should be continuity. - With the switch lever released, there should be no continuity. 4. If the continuity check is not as specified, replace the switch. Page 3980 Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution diagram set to get a more detailed picture of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Page 9831 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 5103 126. Below Right Side of Engine Page 4942 Page 6612 Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box Starting System - Unable To Key In Ignition Switch Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: Technical Service Bulletins Starting System - Unable To Key In Ignition Switch Can't Turn Ignition Switch? Check for Locked Steering Got a service customer complaining he or she can't turn the ignition switch to start the engine? The reason could just be the steering column lock pin is engaged with the front wheels turned. Here's what typically happens: Some folks use the steering wheel to help support themselves while climbing in or out of the vehicle. This is very common among elderly or disabled drivers. Doing this turns the front wheels, which twists the tires against the ground. The twisted tires apply torque to the steering column. With the ignition switch in LOCK (0), the steering column lock pin is engaged. But the applied torque on the steering column binds the lock pin, making it tough to turn the ignition switch. The ignition switch won't turn to ON (II) if the lock pin isn't disengaged from the steering column. Tell your customer there's nothing wrong with the ignition switch itself. All he or she needs to do is turn the steering wheel from side to side while turning the switch. This usually releases the lock pin so the engine can be started. In some cases, though, your customer may need to give a good tug on the wheel. This could easily happen when parking on a hill and the wheels are turned sharply before the engine is shut off. Page 3364 Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Description and Operation PGM-FI Main Relay The PGM-FI main relay contains two separate relays. One is energized whenever the ignition is on which supplies battery voltage to the ECM, power to the fuel injectors, and power for the fuel cut relay. The fuel cut relay is energized to supply power to the fuel pump for 2 seconds when the ignition is switched ON (II), and when the engine is running. Page 6535 Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box Part 1 Locations 2. Right Front Side of Engine Compartment Page 1128 Key Reminder Switch: Electrical Diagrams Lights-on, Key-in, And Seat Belt Reminders Image 73 Page 686 Failed Part: P/N 1K000-PHM-000 Defect Code: 03214 Symptom Code: 03205 Skill Level: Repair Technician INSPECTION PROCEDURE 1. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 2. Remove the cargo floor mat (see page 20-44 of the 2000-04 Insight Service Manual). (In ISIS, use the keyword FLOOR MAT, and select Interior Trim Removal/Installation - Cargo Area from the list.) 3. Remove the battery module switch cover (two bolts), then remove the locking cover from the switch. 4. Flip the battery module switch to OFF. Reinstall the locking cover. 5. Wait at least 5 minutes to let the capacitors in the system discharge. Page 4798 Page 3152 2. Remove the carpet hold-down clips on the door sill. 3. Remove the carpet hold-down clip in the passenger's footwell under the glove box. Pull back the carpet. 4. Remove the ECM cover mounting nuts. 5. Pivot the lower edge of the ECM cover off the mounting studs. Lift the upper edge of the cover off the mounting studs, then pull the cover down and back so it clears the evaporator drain tube. 6. Remove the two bolts mounting the ECM to the cover. Disconnect the ECM connectors, and remove the ECM. 7. Install the new ECM and the cover in the reverse order of removal. 8. Reinstall the carpet and the door sill trim. 9. Connect the PGM Tester to the data link connector (DLC). 10. Use the PGM Tester to program the customer's immobilizer key codes into the ECM. Verify that all the keys will start the engine. NOTE: Make sure the PGM Tester software is SN32OP or later. 11. Do the idle learn procedure: ^ Warm the engine to normal operating temperature. ^ Let the engine idle for 10 minutes. If the radiator fan comes on, do not include its running time in the 10 minutes. 12. Center-punch a completion mark above the eighth character of the engine compartment VIN. 13. For California residents: Fill out and give to your customer a Vehicle Emission Recall - Proof of Correction certificate. Advise them to keep this certificate as proof that the emissions recall was completed. Your customer will need to submit this certificate to the DMV if the DMV requests it. A supply of these salmon-colored certificates was sent to your service manager. If you need more, use reorder number Y0657. Page 4908 In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locater) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: - Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. Page 4956 Fuel Pump Relay: Diagnostic Aids Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Diagram Information and Instructions Control Module HVAC: Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System Terminal Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown below is #6. Page 8453 The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery. 94-95 Accord, Civic, Del SOL, Prelude & 95 Odyssey 1994-95 Accord with dealer-installed security system 1994-95 Civic with dealer-installed security system 1994-95 del Sol with dealer-installed security system 1994-95 Prelude with dealer-installed security system 1995 Odyssey with dealer-installed security system Programming the Transmitter NOTES: ^ The system uses a stacking-type memory that accepts up to four transmitters. If you program a fifth transmitter, the system's memory for the first transmitter is pushed out, and it will no longer work. ^ To clear a lost or stolen transmitter from the system's memory, program a transmitter four times. This will remove the missing transmitter from memory, since only four transmitter codes can be accepted. ^ Another way to clear a lost or stolen transmitter is to erase all transmitter codes, and then reprogram them. To do this, refer to the security system owner's manual. 1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 2. Press and hold the Valet-Disarm button on the dashboard lower cover. (Continue to hold the button during this procedure, or programming will be cancelled.) The LED on the upper steering column cover flashes when the system is in programming mode. 3. Press the top button on the transmitter. Check that the parking lights flash to confirm that the transmitter's code was accepted. 4. Press the top button on each of the remaining transmitters. Check that the parking lights flash after each transmitter code is accepted. 5. Release the Valet-Disarm button to exit the programming mode. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda using normal parts ordering procedures. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery. 96-98 Civic EX & Except EX, Civic 1996-98 Civic EX with factory-installed keyless entry system 1996-98 Civic (except EX) with dealer-installed keyless entry system 1996-98 Civic with dealer-installed security system Page 3282 Connectors - "C" Page 8901 Wire Color Coding Distinct Of Circuit By Wire Base Color All wires have color-coded insulation. Wires belonging to a system's main harness will have a single color. Wires belonging to a system's sub-circuits will have a colored stripe. Striped wires use the codes found in the chart to show wire size and colors. Abbreviations are used to indicate wire color within a circuit diagram. Wire Color Abbreviations The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics: WHT................................... White YEL................................... Yellow BLK................................... Black BLU................................... Blue GRN................................... Green RED................................... Red ORN................................... Orange PNK................................... Pink BRN................................... Brown GRY................................... Gray PUR................................... Purple LT BLU................................... Light Blue LT GRN................................... Light Green The wire insulation has one color or one color with another color stripe. The second color is the stripe. How to Identify Connector Terminals How to Identify Connector Terminals Page 8921 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. Page 6300 39. Upper Left Kick Panel Area Page 7762 Wire Color Coding Distinct Of Circuit By Wire Base Color All wires have color-coded insulation. Wires belonging to a system's main harness will have a single color. Wires belonging to a system's sub-circuits will have a colored stripe. Striped wires use the codes found in the chart to show wire size and colors. Abbreviations are used to indicate wire color within a circuit diagram. Wire Color Abbreviations The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics: WHT................................... White YEL................................... Yellow BLK................................... Black BLU................................... Blue GRN................................... Green RED................................... Red ORN................................... Orange PNK................................... Pink BRN................................... Brown GRY................................... Gray PUR................................... Purple LT BLU................................... Light Blue LT GRN................................... Light Green The wire insulation has one color or one color with another color stripe. The second color is the stripe. How to Identify Connector Terminals How to Identify Connector Terminals Page 10334 4. Disconnect the wiper motor connector from the hatch harness connector. 5. Pull the hatch harness out through the opening between the hatch frame and the wiper motor mounting bracket. 6. Apply a piece of self-adhesive foam padding from the kit to the edge of the motor mounting bracket. 7. Connect the sub-harness from the kit to the wiper motor connector. Page 6495 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Page 9082 YES - Replace the PGM-FI main relay (IGP). NO - Repair open in the wire between the PGM-FI main relay (IGP) and the ECM (B1, B9). 37. Measure voltage between body ground and ECM connector terminals B2, B10, B20 and B22 individually. Is there more than 1.0 V? YES - Repair open in the wire(s) that had more than 1.0 V between G101 and the ECM (B2, B10, B20, B22). NO - Go to step 38. 38. Measure voltage between body ground and ECM connector terminal C19. Is there about 5 V? YES - Go to step 46. NO - Go to step 39. 39. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 40. Disconnect the manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor 3P connector. 41. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 42. Measure voltage between body ground and ECM connector terminal C19. Is there about 5 V? YES - Replace the MAP sensor. Campaign - Integrated Motor Assist Controller Update Technical Service Bulletin # 01-102 Date: 011127 Campaign - Integrated Motor Assist Controller Update 01-102 November 27, 2001 Applies To: 2000-01 Insight with M/T - See VEHICLES AFFECTED Product Update: IMA Controller Modification BACKGROUND The IMA (Integrated Motor Assist) system supplies power to various 12-volt loads on the vehicle (lights, radio, windows, etc.) and assists the engine to improve vehicle performance. In very cold weather, power demands on the IMA battery module can exceed output, causing permanent damage to the battery module. VEHICLES AFFECTED Not all 2000-01 Insights with M/T are affected by this product update. Only vehicles that are registered and normally driven in cold weather areas are affected. Before you begin, verify that the vehicle is registered in one of the states affected by the update (see the map). Then check for vehicle eligibility by doing one of the following. ^ Verify that the customer has a notification letter. ^ Check the vehicle's VIN on your campaign responsibility report. ^ Do a VIN status inquiry on DCS. CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION All owners of affected vehicles will be sent a notification of this product update. An example of the customer notification. CORRECTIVE ACTION Replace the battery condition monitor (BCM) module and the motor control module (MCM). PARTS INFORMATION Page 509 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. Page 7306 Condenser Fan: Testing and Inspection Radiator and Condenser Fans Low Speed Circuit Troubleshooting Radiator and Condenser Fans Low Speed Circuit Troubleshooting 1. Check the No. 19 (20 A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box, and the No. 16 (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box. Are the fuses OK? YES - Go to step 2. NO - Replace the fuse(s), and recheck. 2. Remove the condenser fan relay from the under-hood fuse/relay box, and test it. Is the relay OK? YES - Go to step 3. NO - Replace the condenser fan relay. 3. Measure the voltage between the No. 1 terminal of the condenser fan relay 4P socket and body ground. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 4. NO - Replace the under-hood fuse/relay box. 4. Connect the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals of the condenser fan relay 4P socket with a jumper wire. Does the condenser fan run? YES - Go to step 5. NO - Go to step 13. 5. Disconnect the jumper wire. 6. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). Page 8021 Cavity Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity / terminal shown is # 6. Circuit Schematics Page 6776 Alignment: Service and Repair Wheel Alignment The suspension can be adjusted for front camber and front toe. However, each of these adjustments are interrelated to each other. For example, when you adjust camber, the toe changes. Therefore, you must adjust the front wheel alignment whenever you adjust camber or toe. Pre-Alignment Checks For proper inspection and adjustment of the wheel alignment, do these checks: 1. Release the parking brake to avoid an incorrect measurement. 2. Make sure the suspension is not modified. 3. Check the tire size and tire pressure. Tire size: Front/rear: 165/65R14 78S Tire pressure: Front: 260 kPa (2.6 kgf/cm2, 38 psi) Rear: 240 kPa (2.4 kgf/cm2, 35 psi) 4. Check the runout of the wheels and tires. 5. Check the suspension ball joints. Hold a wheel with your hands, and move it up and down and right and left to check for wobbling. 6. Bounce the vehicle up and down several times to stabilize the suspension. Front Caster Inspection Use commercially available computerized four wheel alignment equipment to measure wheel alignment (caster, camber, toe, and turning angle). Follow the equipment manufacturer's instructions. Check the caster angle. If the caster angle is not within the specification, check for bent or damaged suspension components. Front caster angle: 2°00' ± 1° Front Camber Inspection Use commercially available computerized four wheel alignment equipment to measure wheel alignment (caster, camber, toe, and turning angle). Follow the equipment manufacturer's instructions. Check the camber angle. If the camber angle is not within the specification, adjust the camber. Front camber angle: 0°00' ± 1° Front Camber Adjustment The front camber can be adjusted by exchanging one or both of the damper pinch bolts with the smaller diameter adjusting bolt(s). The difference between the adjusting bolt diameter and the pinch bolt hole diameter allows a small range of adjustment. Page 7847 In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locater) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: - Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. Page 1112 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. Page 9744 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. Page 28 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 51 43. Under Left Side of Dash (Honda Accessory) Page 9960 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. Page 9799 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 7957 ^ For warranty repairs, go to the IN-WARRANTY EXCHANGE procedure. ^ For vehicle service contract (VSC) and certified used car (CUC) repairs, call. ^ For goodwill repairs, contact your dealership's District Parts and Service Manager (DPSM). IN-WARRANTY EXCHANGE Service Technician: NOTE: ^ Use the iN to order a remanufactured audio, navigation, or RES unit. Do not call the Remanufactured Parts Dealer Service Group. ^ A Tech Line reference number is not required to submit the order. Check Yes, and enter the Reference Number only when there is a preexisting Tech Line contact. 1. With your completed Audio/Navigation/RES Worksheet, go to an iN workstation. 2. From the iN main menu, click on SERVICE, then click on AUDIO, then select Warranty Audio Order. 3. Select the model, year, and keyword (AUDIO, NAVIGATION, or RES) for the vehicle you are working on, then click on Search. 4. Review all displayed publications for additional repair information. If you cannot repair the problem, go to step 5. Specifications Locations Heated Glass Element Relay: Locations Engine Compartment View Page 6564 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 8332 Removal - Remove the wheelhouse upper member, then replace the front wheelhouse NOTE: Do not section the wheelhouse upper member; replacement must be made at the factory seams. Page 6485 In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locater) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: - Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. Page 8612 75. In Driver's Door (Passenger's Similar) Page 4213 DTC P0979 thru P1193 Page 1295 Intake Air Temperature Sensor: Description and Operation Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor The IAT sensor is a temperature dependent resistor (thermistor). The resistance of the thermistor decreases as the intake air temperature increases. Page 10041 Relay And Control Unit Locations - Dashboard Service and Repair Constant Velocity Joint: Service and Repair Disassembly Special Tools Required - Threaded adapter, 22 x 1.5 mm 07XAC-001010A - Slide hammer, commercially available Inboard Joint Side: Page 6647 174. Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box Part 2 Page 3021 18. Middle Rear of Engine Page 10015 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. Component Locations Heater Core Temperature Sensor / Switch: Component Locations Heating/Cooling Unit View Page 9193 Connectors - "C" Page 23 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: - Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest OHMS" range. Description and Operation Injection Timing: Description and Operation Fuel Injector Timing and Duration The ECM contains the memory for basic discharge duration at various engine speeds and manifold pressures. The basic discharge duration, after being read out from the memory, is further modified by signals sent from various sensors to obtain the final discharge duration. By monitoring long term fuel trim, the ECM detects long term malfunctions in the fuel system, and will set a diagnostic trouble code (DTC) if the malfunction occurs during two consecutive trips. Page 7457 3. Connect the universal connect set and the Tracer- Stick dye capsule: (a) Be sure the quick coupler and control valves on the set are closed. (b) Remove the low-side service port sealing cap, and connect the set to the low-side service port using the quick coupler. (c) Hold a new dye capsule so that the embossed arrow is pointing up. Remove the black end cap, and carefully attach the capsule to the control valve fitting. NOTE: The capsule must be held with the embossed arrow pointing up or the dye will leak out of the capsule. (d) Turn the capsule so the embossed arrow is pointing down. Remove the orange end cap, and carefully attach the service valve fitting provided in the kit (finger tight). NOTE: The capsule must be held with the embossed arrow pointing down or the dye will leak out. 4. Connect the NC service equipment: With the universal connect set and dye capsule attached to the vehicle's low-side service port, connect the A/C refrigerant recovery and charging station's low-side hose quick coupler to the service valve fitting. Open the blue hand-wheel valves on both quick couplers. Leave the control valve (black knob) on the universal connect set closed. NOTE: * ^ If you have recovered refrigerant to weigh it as part of your diagnostics, or if there is a low charge, it is more efficient to recharge the system using normal procedures before installing the universal connect set. Dye can then be added using approximately 0.05 lb (0.02 kg) of refrigerant.* ^ You do not need to connect the service equipment's high-side hose to the vehicle to install the dye. If the high-side hose is connected, make sure its coupler valve is closed before proceeding. ^ Do not use the A/C recovery and charging station to recover or evacuate the A/C system when a full dye capsule is attached. The dye will be drawn into the service equipment instead of being added to the vehicle's A/C system. 5. Inspect the A/C system for leaks: (a) Run the A/C system for at least 15 minutes to circulate the dye through the system. Large leaks will be seen immediately as a fluorescent yellow glow. Smaller leaks may require at least 24 hours of vehicle operation before they become visible. Operate the A/C system as much as possible during this time to keep the dye circulating. (b) Stop the vehicle's engine and inspect the system for leaks using the ultraviolet (UV) lamp and fluorescence-enhancing glasses from the kit. Page 607 In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locater) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: - Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. Page 6184 Neutral Safety Switch: Description and Operation Neutral Position Switch (M/T model) The neutral position switch signals the ECM when the transmission is shifted out of neutral. Page 9623 40. Upper Left Kick Panel Area Page 3841 DTC P1861 thru P2238 Page 9253 Wire Color Coding Distinct Of Circuit By Wire Base Color All wires have color-coded insulation. Wires belonging to a system's main harness will have a single color. Wires belonging to a system's sub-circuits will have a colored stripe. Striped wires use the codes found in the chart to show wire size and colors. Abbreviations are used to indicate wire color within a circuit diagram. Wire Color Abbreviations The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics: WHT................................... White YEL................................... Yellow BLK................................... Black BLU................................... Blue GRN................................... Green RED................................... Red ORN................................... Orange PNK................................... Pink BRN................................... Brown GRY................................... Gray PUR................................... Purple LT BLU................................... Light Blue LT GRN................................... Light Green The wire insulation has one color or one color with another color stripe. The second color is the stripe. How to Identify Connector Terminals How to Identify Connector Terminals Page 42 Immobilizer System Image 132 Page 3523 9. Front of Engine Service and Repair Oil Pressure Switch (For Fuel Pump): Service and Repair VTEC Oil Pressure Switch Replacement 1. Disconnect the VTEC oil pressure switch connector, then remove the VTEC oil pressure switch (A). 2. Install the VTEC oil pressure switch using a new O-ring (B). Page 2780 Battery Current Sensor: Diagrams 78. Battery Current Sensor 92. MPI Module Current Sensor Page 720 73. Under Right Side of Kick Panel (M/T) 134. Under Right Side of Kick Panel (CVT) Page 4906 Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution diagram set to get a more detailed picture of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Locations Page 3375 96. Left Rear Side of PCU Locations Relay And Control Unit Locations - Dashboard Page 10065 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 2608 Using the SYMPTOM TROUBLESHOOTING INDEX or the DTC INDEX in the applicable service manual, follow the diagnostic procedure: ^ Refer to the appropriate section in the service manual, or ^ From the Interactive Network (iN) main menu: - Select SERVICE. - Select ISIS (Service Publications). - Select SEARCH BY VEHICLE. - Enter the model and the model year. - Enter a keyword: IMA or BATTERY - Select the appropriate Service Bulletin, ServiceNews article, or DTC Troubleshooting from the list. 2. Repair the vehicle according to your diagnosis: ^ If the problem is gone, return the vehicle to the customer. ^ If the problem is still there or your diagnosis leads you to replace the IMA battery, go to step 3. 3. Replace the IMA battery with a remanufactured one: ^ For vehicle service contract (VSC) and certified used car (CUC) repairs, call 800-999-5901. ^ For goodwill repairs, contact your dealership's district parts and service manager (DPSM). * ^ For 2003-08 Civic Hybrids and 2005-07 Accord Hybrids, refer to Service Bulletin 10-083, IMA Battery Software and Hardware Updates.* IMA BATTERY ORDERING Service Technician: NOTE: ^ Use the iN to order a remanufactured IMA battery. Do not call the Remanufactured Parts Dealer Service Group. ^ A Tech Line reference number is not required to submit the order. Check Yes, and enter the Reference Number only when there is a pre-existing Tech Line contact. 1. Go to an iN workstation. 2. From the iN main menu, select SERVICE, select Remanufactured Parts, then select IMA Battery Order. Page 8820 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Water Pump Belt (Without A/C) Drive Belt: Testing and Inspection Water Pump Belt (Without A/C) Inspection and Adjustment (Without A/C) Special Tools Required Belt tension gauge 07JGG-001010A Belt Tension Gauge Method Inspection 1. Remove the right rear splash shield. 2. Attach the belt tension gauge to the belt, and measure the tension. Follow the gauge manufacturer's instructions. If the belt is worn or damaged, replace it. If the belt needs adjustment, go to step 3. Tension: Used Belt: 340 - 490 N (35 - 50 kgf, 77 - 110 lbs) New Belt: 440 - 640 N (45 - 65 kgf, 99 - 143 lbs) Adjustment 3. Loosen the idler pulley center nut (A). 4. Turn the adjusting bolt (B) to obtain the proper belt tension, then retighten the idler pulley center nut. 5. Recheck the belt tension. 6. If you installed a new belt, run the engine for five minutes, then readjust the belt to the used belt specification. Deflection Method Inspection 1. Apply a force of 98 N (10 kgf, 22 lbs), and measure the deflection at the mid point (A) between the water pump and crankshaft pulleys. If the belt is worn or damaged, replace it. If the belt needs adjustment, go to step 2. Deflection: Used Belt: 8.5 - 11.0 mm (0.33 - 0.43 inch) New Belt: 7.0 - 10.0 mm (0.28 - 0.39 inch) Adjustment Page 9521 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 3791 ECU Module Kit: P/N 06060-PHM-305, H/C 6912901 WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION Operation Number: 118121 Flat Rate Time: 0.8 hour Failed Part: P/N 1K100-PHM-010 H/C 6377170 Defect Code: 5AG Contention Code: L43 Template ID: 01-102A Skill Level: Repair Technician Disclaimer Repair Procedure 1. Write down the radio station presets. 2. Make sure the ignition switch is off, then disconnect the negative cable from the under-hood 12 V battery. 3. Remove the cargo floor mat and the cargo box (see page 20-43 of the 2000 Insight Service Manual). 4. Remove the battery module switch cover, then remove the locking cover from the switch. 5. Turn off the battery module switch. Reinstall the locking cover on the switch, and remove the 5 mm bolt on the side of the switch. 6. Wait at least 5 minutes for the capacitors in the system to discharge. Page 3615 14. Check for continuity between body ground and ECM connector terminal A27. Is there continuity? YES-Repair short in the wire between the ECM (A27) and the A/C pressure switch. NO-Update the ECM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM, replace the original ECM. 15. Momentarily connect under-hood fuse/relay box 16P connector terminal No.11 to body ground with a jumper wire several times. NOTE: The under-hood fuse/relay box 16P connector is on the bottom of the fuse box. When you unbolt and invert the fuse box, leave the upper cover on to prevent short circuits. Is there a clicking noise from the A/C compressor clutch? YES-Repair open in the wire between the ECM (A17) and the A/C clutch relay. NO-Check the A/C system for other symptoms. 16. Measure voltage between ECM connector terminal A27 and B20. Is there less than 1.0 V? YES-Update the ECM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM, replace the original ECM. NO-Repair open in the wire between the ECM (A27) and the A/C pressure switch, or an open between the A/C pressure switch and the heater control panel. Diagram Information and Instructions Trunk / Liftgate Switch: Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System Terminal Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown below is #6. Page 9608 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Page 3663 Crankshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation Camshaft Position (CMP) A and B (Top Dead Center (TDC) 1 and 2), and Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensors The CMPA (TDC 1) and CMPB (TDC 2) sensors detect the position of the No.1 cylinder as a reference for sequential fuel injection to each cylinder. The CKP sensor detects engine speed and determines ignition timing and timing for fuel injection of each cylinder. Page 1601 Fuel Pressure: Service Precautions WARNING: Adhere to the following procedures any time the fuel system is being worked on in order to reduce the risk of fire and personal injury: - Keep a dry chemical (Class B) fire extinguisher near the work area. - Place a "CAUTION FLAMMABLE" sign in the work area. - Work in a well-ventilated area. Do not smoke, and keep sparks and open flames away. - Wear eye protection. - Use caution when working near the catalytic converter to prevent the possibility of burns or fire. (The temperatures within the converter can exceed 537 °C (1000 °F). - Relieve the fuel system pressure prior to disconnecting fuel system components. - Disconnect the negative battery cable except for tests where battery voltage is required. - Use a suitable container to store or catch fuel. - Do not replace fuel pipe with fuel hose. - Plug all disconnected fuel line fittings and hoses. - After making any fuel system repairs ALWAYS inspect for fuel leaks. Page 3835 DTC P0750 thru P0977 Page 5808 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 6938 4. With the connectors still disconnected, make these input tests at the connector. - If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system. - If all the input tests prove OK, go to step 5. 5. Connect the connectors to the gauge assembly and make these input tests at the connector. - If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system. - If all the input tests prove OK, replace the printed circuit board in the gauge assembly. Locations 135. Under Right Side of Kick Panel (CVT) Page 3458 89. MAP Sensor Service and Repair Fuel Pressure Release: Service and Repair Fuel Pressure Relieving Before disconnecting fuel pipes or hoses, release pressure from the system by loosening the sealing nut on top of the fuel rail. 1. Write down the frequencies for the radio's preset buttons. 2. Disconnect the battery negative cable from the battery negative terminal. 3. Remove the fuel fill cap. 4. Use a wrench on the sealing nut (A) at the fuel rail. 5. Place a rag or shop towel (B) over the sealing nut. 6. Slowly loosen the sealing nut one complete turn. NOTE: Replace all washers whenever the sealing nut is loosened or removed. Page 8248 115. Right Side of Cargo Area Page 6733 Defect Code: 07406 Symptom Code: 03602 Skill Level: Repair Technician Diagnostic Trouble Code: To create the 15-digit DTC, see the applicable repair procedure. Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. TOOL DESCRIPTIONS The holding force gauge measures the amount of pull on the vehicle. It is a bracket that counts as one weight, plus five removable weights. During the test-drive, attach the bracket and the weights to the steering wheel on the side opposite the pulling direction. For example, if the vehicle pulls to the right, attach the bracket and weights to the left side of the steering wheel. Start with the maximum amount of weight on the steering wheel, and remove the weights until the vehicle drives in a straight line. When recording the pull on the worksheet, write down the direction of the pull (lefi or right) and the number of weights required to balance the pull (one through six). For example, if you have the bracket and two weights on the steering wheel, then record this as three weights. NOTE: The bracket counts as one weight. Page 2218 Oil Pressure Sender: Testing and Inspection Test 1. Remove the oil pressure switch connector (A) from the engine oil pressure switch (B). 2. Check for continuity between the engine oil pressure switch and the engine (ground). There should be continuity with the engine stopped. There should be no continuity with the engine running. 3. If the switch fails to operate, check the engine oil level. If the engine oil level is OK, check the engine oil pressure. Page 2931 ^ Remove the module(s). ^ Install the new module(s) in the reverse order of removal, and torque the mounting bolts to 9.8 Nm (7.2 lb-ft). 12. Reinstall the foam insert. 13. Reinstall the IPU lid. Torque the bolts to 9.8 Nm (7.2 lb-ft). 14. Reinstall the trunk right side shelf support. Torque the bolts to 9.8 Nm (7.2 lb-ft). 15. Remove the battery module switch locking cover, flip the switch to ON, then reinstall the locking cover. 16. Reinstall the battery module switch cover. 17. Reinstall the rear clips on the middle bulkhead carpet. 18. Reinstall the cargo floor mat. 19. Check for and clear any DTCs with the HDS. 20. Remove the No. 15 (40A) fuse (EPS control unit) from the under-hood fuse/relay box. 21. With the transmission in neutral (M/T) or Park (CVT), and the clutch released (M/T), start the engine. Hold the engine speed at 3,500 rpm until the IMA battery level indicator shows at least 50 percent charge. 22. Turn off the engine, and reinstall the No. 15 fuse. 23. Center-punch a completion mark above the 14th character of the engine compartment VIN. Disclaimer Page 6618 Splices Components Ground - "G" Page 7728 4. Clean and dry the seat belt guide, then put a piece of teflon tape on the inside. Use the teflon tape specified in this service bulletin; other brands or types of tape may eventually peel off and restrict seat belt movement. 5. Install the seat belt guide and the door panel. 6. Test the belt for proper retraction by pulling the latch plate down to the floor of the vehicle and then releasing it. The belt should retract fully in four seconds or less. Disclaimer Page 6597 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Locations Relay And Control Unit Location - Engine Compartment Campaign - ECM Update Engine Control Module: Recalls Campaign - ECM Update 00-042 April 5, 2000 Applies To: 2000 Insight - From VIN JHMZE1...YT000001 thru JHMZE1...YT000440 Product Update: Insight ECM BACKGROUND The engine may not start it the ambient temperature is below 0°F (-20°C). CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION All owners of affected vehicles will be mailed a notification of this campaign. An example of a customer notification is shown. CORRECTIVE ACTION Replace the ECM (engine control module) with an improved unit. After the ECM replacement, the immobilizer system must be reinitialized. Make sure you have all the customer's keys. Page 4385 Cylinder Identification Sensor: Service and Repair TDC1/TDC2 Sensors Replacement 1. Disconnect connectors from the TDC1 sensor and TDC2 sensor. Remove the TDC1 sensor (A) and the TDC2 sensor (B). 2. Install the TDC1 sensor and the TDC2 sensor using new O-rings (C). Page 9194 Splices Components Ground - "G" Component Locations Hatch Opener - Component Location Index Page 8548 - Apply the body filler over the damaged area with a putty knife using light pressure. - After applying the body filler, allow 5-6 minutes of normal drying time, then force dry it with infrared lamps or other industrial dryer at 122 degrees F (50 degrees C) - 140 degrees F (60 degrees C). NOTE: Follow the body filler manufacturer's instructions for drying time. 2. Polishing The body filler is dry a white mark appears when the surface is scratched with your finger nail. 11. Throughly sand the body filler surface. Use the double action sander and #80-#120 disc paper. -2. Sand the surface evenly, particularly the area that was filled. Use the double block and #120-#180 sandpaper. -3. Featheredge the paint coat. Sand the body filler surface until the proper dimension are met. Page 3825 ^ If you still cannot hear the solenoid valve click or feel it tap when activated, continue with normal troubleshooting. 15. Insight only: Disconnect the PGM Tester, and return the vehicle to your customer. 16. All other affected models: Use the PGM Tester to run the EVAP system function test (see S/B 02-007, EVAP System Function Testing and Diagnostics With the PGM Tester). ^ If the EVAP system passes the function test, disconnect the PGM Tester, and return the vehicle to your customer. ^ If the EVAP system fails the function test, continue with normal troubleshooting. Disclaimer Page 2551 Radiator Cooling Fan Temperature Sensor / Switch: Testing and Inspection Radiator Fan Switch Test NOTE: Bleed air from the cooling system after installing the radiator fan switch. 1. Remove the radiator fan switch from the thermostat cover. 2. Suspend the radiator fan switch (A) in a container of water as shown. 3. Heat the water, and check the temperature with a thermometer. Do not let the thermometer (B) touch the bottom of hot container. 4. Measure the continuity between the terminal 1 and terminal 2 according to the table. Page 10198 4. With the connectors still disconnected, make this input test at the connector. - If the test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system. - If the input test proves OK, go to step 5. 5. Reconnect the connectors to the switch, and make these input tests at the appropriate connectors. - If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system. - If all the input tests prove OK, the power window master switch must be faulty, replace the switch. Locations 2. Right Front Side of Engine Compartment Locations Power Mirror Switch: Locations Power Mirrors - Component Location Index Page 2652 NOTE: Once you submit your order, you can track it using the Order Status Inquiry screen on the iN. For details, go to IMA BATTERY ORDER PROGRAM FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS in this service bulletin. 7. You will receive a remanufactured IMA battery unit packed in a reusable shipping box. Save this box and the packing materials. You must return the failed IMA battery core in this box. Otherwise, your dealership risks being billed a core loss charge of $3,000. 8. Remove the failed IMA battery: ^ Refer to the IMA section of the appropriate service manual, or ^ Online, enter keywords IMA REMOVAL, then select Battery Module Removal/Installation from the list. 9. Install the remanufactured IMA battery: ^ Refer to the IMA section of the appropriate service manual, or ^ Online, enter keywords IMA REMOVAL, then select Battery Module Removal/Installation from the list. 10. Put the failed IMA battery unit core in the same box that the remanufactured unit came in. NOTE: ^ Make sure the failed IMA battery core is not disassembled. If the core is disassembled, your dealership will be debited a core loss charge of $3,000. ^ If you do not return the IMA battery in this same box, your warranty claim will be debited, and the core will be sent back to your dealership. Parts Manager: 11. The IMA Battery Order form you submitted is kept on the iN for 60 days. Print out a copy to put in the box with your core return: ^ From the iN main menu, select SERVICE. ^ Select Transactions. ^ Select Advanced Search, and enter a date range. ^ Select Filtered by, then select Service. ^ Under Transaction Description, select IMA Battery Order, then go back to the top of the page and select Search. ^ Scroll down to the appropriate VIN, then select it to view the form. ^ Review the form, then print out a copy by selecting the printer icon. 12. Print out a copy of the Core Return Update Acknowledgement to put in the box with your core return: ^ From the iN main menu, select PARTS. ^ Select Returns and Surplus. ^ Select Core Return. ^ Select Core/VIN. ^ Select the order reference number associated with the VIN. ^ Enter the serial number from the core being returned, then select Submit. ^ Review the form, then print out a copy by selecting the printer icon. Emissions - OBD II DTC's And Associated Monitors Engine Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins Emissions - OBD II DTC's And Associated Monitors 03-020 April 2, 2010 Applies To: All OBD II-equipped models except Passport OBD II DTCs and Their Associated Monitors (Supersedes 03-020, dated March 29, 2003, to revise the information marked by the black bars and asterisks) *REVISION SUMMARY Numerous DTCs were added. Refer to the list for details.* Following is a list of all OBD II DTCs and their associated monitors for all Honda automobiles with OBD II. No one model has every DTC in the list. DTC P0AA6 thru P0A9E Page 9837 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. Page 9759 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Page 4537 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. Page 2732 6. Remove the right trunk shelf support (five clips and two bolts). 7. Remove the six mid-frame cover bolts. Remove the intelligent power unit (IPU) lid (17 bolts). 8. Measure the voltage at the junction board terminals. There should be 30 V or less. If you read more than 30 V, there is a problem in the circuit; do the DTC troubleshooting first. 9. Look at the part number on the motor control module (MCM), and refer to this chart. If there is a replacement part number listed for it, you need to order a replacement MCM. 10. Look at the part number on the battery condition monitor (BCM). If the part number is not 1K100-PHM-A01, you need to order a replacement BCM. Page 4784 Page 9834 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: Page 3950 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Diagnostic Aids Fuse Block: Diagnostic Aids Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Page 7763 Cavity Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity / terminal shown is # 6. Circuit Schematics Page 7109 69. Under Middle of Dash Service and Repair Mainshaft Bearing/Bushing: Service and Repair For further information regarding this component and the system that it is a part of, please refer to Manual Transmission/Transaxle; Service and Repair. Page 1198 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Page 6770 ^ Loosen the front subframe bolts. See the applicable service manual for more information. NOTE: The front wheels are being viewed from the rear of the vehicle. ^ Depending which way you need to shift the subframe, insert a pry bar between the subframe and body at both the front and rear positions of the subframe. NOTE: Be careful not to damage the vehicle. You could bend and damage the frame and/or body if you apply too much pressure. ^ Press on both pry bars to shift the subframe. It will move only a few millimeters. This should adjust the camber about 0.2-0.5°. ^ While holding the subframe in place, have an assistant torque the subframe bolts to their proper torque. Front Camber Adjustment, Strut Suspension ^ Raise the vehicle, and remove the front tires. ^ Loosen the damper pinch bolts and the flange nuts. ^ Adjust the camber by moving the bottom of the damper within the range of the damper pinch bolt free play. NOTE: Some vehicles have special pinch bolts that allow more adjustment. For more information, refer to the parts catalog. ^ Tighten the damper pinch bolts to the specified torque. ^ Reinstall the front wheels and lower the vehicle. Bounce the front of the vehicle several times to stabilize the suspension. Page 8018 Terminals - "T" Shielding Switches Fuses Page 8773 Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow from power at the top of the diagram to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another for example is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors Page 9133 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: Page 2543 Page 3260 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Locations 23. Left Rear of Engine Compartment Page 9472 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 1756 Refrigerant: Testing and Inspection Refrigerant Leak Test Special Tool Required Leak detector, Honda Tool and Equipment YGK-H-10PM, commercially available CAUTION: - Air conditioning refrigerant or lubricant vapor can irritate your eyes, nose, or throat. - Be careful when connecting service equipment. - Do not breathe refrigerant or vapor. WARNING: - Compressed air mixed with R-134a forms a combustible vapor. - The vapor can burn or explode causing serious injury. - Never use compressed air to pressure test R-134a service equipment or vehicle air conditioning system. Use only service equipment that is U.L.-listed and is certified to meet the requirements of SAE J2210 to remove HFC-134a (R-134a) from the air conditioning system. If accidental system discharge occurs, ventilate work area before resuming service. R-134a service equipment or vehicle air conditioning systems should not be pressure tested or leak tested with compressed air. Additional health and safety information may be obtained from the refrigerant and lubricant manufacturers. 1. Connect a R-134a refrigerant recovery/recycling/charging station (A) to the high-pressure service port (B) and the low-pressure service port (C), as shown, following the equipment manufacturer's instructions. 2. Open high pressure valve to charge the system to the specified capacity, then close the supply valve, and remove the charging system couplers. Refrigerant capacity: Select the appropriate units of measure for your refrigerant charging station. 500 to 550 g 0.50 to 0.55 kg 1.1 to 1.2 lbs 17.6 to 19.4 oz 3. Check the system for leaks using a R-134a refrigerant leak detector with an accuracy of 14g (0.5 oz) per year or better. 4. If you find leaks that require the system to be opened (to repair or replace hoses, fittings, etc.), recover the system. Page 6466 Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box Page 9746 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. Page 7741 Anchor Bolt Construction Page 1104 Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow from power at the top of the diagram to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another for example is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors Page 8008 4. Disconnect the wiper motor connector from the hatch harness connector. 5. Pull the hatch harness out through the opening between the hatch frame and the wiper motor mounting bracket. 6. Apply a piece of self-adhesive foam padding from the kit to the edge of the motor mounting bracket. 7. Connect the sub-harness from the kit to the wiper motor connector. Page 2482 34. ECT Sensor Page 8231 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. Page 7189 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 3898 ECM Inputs and Outputs at Connector D (16P) Part 2 Page 16 Wire Color Coding Distinct Of Circuit By Wire Base Color All wires have color-coded insulation. Wires belonging to a system's main harness will have a single color. Wires belonging to a system's sub-circuits will have a colored stripe. Striped wires use the codes found in the chart to show wire size and colors. Abbreviations are used to indicate wire color within a circuit diagram. Wire Color Abbreviations The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics: WHT................................... White YEL................................... Yellow BLK................................... Black BLU................................... Blue GRN................................... Green RED................................... Red ORN................................... Orange PNK................................... Pink BRN................................... Brown GRY................................... Gray PUR................................... Purple LT BLU................................... Light Blue LT GRN................................... Light Green The wire insulation has one color or one color with another color stripe. The second color is the stripe. How to Identify Connector Terminals How to Identify Connector Terminals Page 5173 Knock Sensor: Service and Repair Replacement 1. Remove the throttle body. 2. Disconnect the knock sensor connector, then remove the knock sensor. 3. Install the knock sensor. 4. Install the throttle body. Locations Ignition Hold Relay: Locations Relay And Control Unit Locations - Floor And Rear Page 6858 100. EPS Control Unit Page 4992 Fuel Supply System - Component Location Index Part 2 Page 1980 All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416 etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector or by a capital letter (A, B, C etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Connector Views that shows the connector terminals wire colors connector cavity numbers and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints shown on diagram [8] . Except for the DLC (data link connector) disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554 for example means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Page 7149 NO - Repair the mode control linkage or doors. Heating and Air Conditioning Mode Control Motor Circuit Troubleshooting 1. Check the No. 16 (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box. Is the fuse OK? YES - Go to step 2. NO - Replace the fuse, and recheck. 2. Disconnect the mode control motor 7P connector. 3. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 4. Measure the voltage between the No. 1 terminal of the mode control motor 7P connector and body ground. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 5. NO - Repair open in the wire between the mode control motor and the No. 16 fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box. 5. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 6. Test the mode control motor. Is the mode control motor OK? YES - Go to step 7. NO - Go to step 12. 7. Disconnect heater control panel connector B (22P). 8. Check for continuity between the No. 6, 9, 10, 20, 21, and No. 22 terminals of heater control panel connector B (22P) and body ground individually. Is there continuity? YES - Repair any short to body ground in the wire(s) between the heater control panel and the mode control motor. Page 815 Wires Page 9425 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. Page 3705 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. Page 721 100. EPS Control Unit Page 8302 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Page 9331 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 9603 First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 437 In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locater) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: - Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. Locations Cabin Temperature Sensor / Switch: Locations Climate Control - Component Location Index Page 3403 Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Locations 17. Rear of Engine Page 1579 6. Test-drive the vehicle to make sure it no longer pulls. If the steering wheel is now off-center by more than 2 mm, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE C. 7. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC. NOTE: Enter each reading in decimal degrees. Example 30' = 0.50. REPAIR PROCEDURE C 1. Make sure the steering wheel is centered. ^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the right until it stops. ^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left, and count the number of revolutions until it stops. ^ Divide the number of revolutions in half, and turn the steering wheel until it is centered. For example, if it takes four revolutions of the steering wheel to go from lock to lock, then two turns is centered. ^ If the steering wheel is off-center by a large amount (20 mm or more), it may not be centered on the steering column shaft. Reinstall the steering wheel before going to step 2. 2. Place the vehicle on a lift, turn the steering wheel until it is centered, and then raise the vehicle. 3. Adjust the tie-rods. Use your measurements from question 13 of the test-drive to make your adjustment. Page 3450 7. Front of Engine Page 9255 Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow from power at the top of the diagram to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another for example is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors Page 9493 136. DRL Control Unit (Canada) Page 5979 Electronic Brake Control Module: Service and Repair ABS Modulator-Control Unit Removal and Installation NOTE: ^ Do not spill brake fluid on the vehicle; it may damage the paint; if brake fluid gets on the paint, wash it off immediately with water. ^ Take care not to damage or deform the brake lines during removal and installation. ^ To prevent the brake fluid from flowing, plug and cover the hose ends and joints with a shop towel or equivalent material. Removal 1. Pull up the lock (C) of the ABS control unit 25P connector (B), then disconnect the connector. 2. Disconnect the six brake lines. 3. Remove the two 6 mm nuts. 4. Remove the ABS modulator-control unit (A). Installation 1. Install the ABS modulator-control unit, then tighten the two 6 mm nuts. 2. Align the connecting surface of the ABS control unit 25P connector. 3. Push in the lock of the ABS control unit 25P connector until you hear it click into place, then connect the connector. 4. Bleed the brake system, starting with the front wheels. 5. Start the engine, and check that the ABS indicator goes off. 6. Test-drive the vehicle, and check that the ABS indicator does not come on. Page 9260 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: - Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest OHMS" range. Page 7279 Condenser Fan: Diagnostic Aids Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Page 9494 Daytime Running Lamp Control Unit: Testing and Inspection Daytime Running Lights Control Unit Input Test - Canada 1. Remove the left door sill trim, and pull away the carpet from left front side of floor. 2. Disconnect the 14P connector (A) from the daytime running lights control unit (B). 3. Inspect all connector and socket terminals to be sure they are all making good contact. - If the terminals are bent, loose, or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system. - If the terminals look OK, go to step 4. Campaign - Premature IMA Battery Module Failures Technical Service Bulletin # 06-026 Date: 080205 Campaign - Premature IMA Battery Module Failures 06-026 February 5, 2008 Applies To: 2000-04 Insight - See VEHICLES AFFECTED Product Update: Premature IMA Battery Module Failure (Supersedes 06-026, dated May 13, 2006) Updated information is shown with black bars in the images and asterisks in the text. BACKGROUND *NOTE: Because of a class action settlement, the warranty coverage for the IMA battery on 2002-04 Insights purchased or leased between April 13, 2002, and November 7, 2006, is now 10 years or 157,500 miles, whichever occurs first. For more information, refer to Service Bulletin 06-085, Warranty Extension: Vehicle Warranty Mileage.* American Honda is announcing a product update to replace certain IMA components to help prevent IMA battery deterioration. This product update applies only in states where there is an abnormally high replacement rate for IMA batteries. The IMA battery control module(s) allows the battery to overcharge. Occasional overcharging is a desirable function, but too many frequently repeated cycles of overcharge can damage the IMA battery. This damage is the result of excessive current and heat build up. Unique local topographical and ambient conditions in affected states, combined with a driving cycle that typically keeps the IMA battery fully charged, create this potential problem. VEHICLES AFFECTED This product update affects all 2000-04 Insights registered in the states of Arizona, California, Colorado, Florida, Hawaii, Nevada, and Texas, the shaded states on this map) as shown. To verify vehicle eligibility, check for at least one of these items: ^ The customer has a notification letter. ^ The vehicle is shown as eligible on a VIN status inquiry. In addition to these verification items, check for a punch mark above the 14th character of the engine compartment VIN. A punch mark in that location means the product update has already been completed. CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION Owners of affected vehicles within the seven states have received a notification of this product update. An example of the notification is shown in this service bulletin. Page 2282 Terminals - "T" Shielding Switches Fuses Page 1019 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 8152 3. Install the handle in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - When installing the lock cylinder, leave the outer handle bolts loose so the outer handle protector does not interfere with the lock cylinder installation, then tighten the handle bolts. - Install the retainer clip on the outer handle, then install the lock cylinder. Be sure the retainer clip is fully seated in the slot on the lock cylinder. - Make sure the door locks and opens properly. - When reinstalling the door panel, make sure the plastic cover is installed properly and sealed around its perimeter. Page 10083 Trunk Lamp: Testing and Inspection Cargo Area Light Test 1. Turn the cargo area light switch OFF. 2. Carefully pry off the lens (A) with a small screw driver. CARGO AREA LIGHT: 3.4 W 3. Carefully remove the light housing (B). 4. Disconnect the 2P connector (C) from the light. 5. Check the bulb (D). If the bulb is OK, check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table. Page 7184 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. Page 2827 3. Remove the battery module cover (A) from the IPU lid, and remove the locking cover (B) from the battery module switch. 4. Turn the switch (A) OFF, then turn the locking cover around (B) and put it back on the switch. 5. Wait for at least five minutes to let the condensers discharge. 6. Remove the under-cover (2 screws, 4 clips). 7. Remove the IPU lid. Page 600 Diodes How to Identify Wiring Color-Coded Insulation Wire Color Page 6258 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 9315 Connectors - "C" Description and Operation Clutch Switch: Description and Operation Clutch pedal position Switch The clutch pedal position switch signals the ECM when the clutch pedal is pressed. Page 4220 DTC U0100 thru U1288 Disclaimer Page 5011 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. Page 1115 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 7540 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 1583 During the test-drive, attach the bracket and the weights to the steering wheel on the side opposite the pulling direction. For example, if the vehicle pulls to the right, attach the bracket and weights to the left side of the steering wheel. Start with the maximum amount of weight on the steering wheel, and remove the weights until the vehicle drives in a straight line. When recording the pull on the worksheet, write down the direction of the pull (lefi or right) and the number of weights required to balance the pull (one through six). For example, if you have the bracket and two weights on the steering wheel, then record this as three weights. NOTE: The bracket counts as one weight. The road crown gauge measures the amount of road crown. Almost all roads have a crown to help drain water during rainstorms. Use the suction cup to attach the road crown gauge bracket to the vehicle in a vertical position. If necessary, bend the bracket until the gauge is vertical. Once you attach and align the road crown gauge, calibrate the gauge to zero. There are two ways to calibrate the gauge: ^ Park the vehicle on a level surface, such as an alignment rack, and calibrate the gauge by moving the gauge until the ball is on the zero mark. ^ If you do not have a perfectly flat surface, park the vehicle on a reasonably flat surface and note the gauge reading. Turn the vehicle 1800 and, with the tires in the same spot, note the new gauge reading. Then move the gauge half of the difference. For example, if your first reading is +3 and, after moving the vehicle, the gauge reads -1, then the difference is 4 degrees. Position the gauge to read +1. Page 6433 Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow from power at the top of the diagram to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another for example is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors Diagram Information and Instructions Console Lamp: Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System Terminal Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown below is #6. Page 9289 Parking Brake Warning Switch: Diagrams 13. Parking Brake Switch 13. Parking Brake Switch Page 9176 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. Campaign - Integrated Motor Assist Controller Update Technical Service Bulletin # 01-102 Date: 011127 Campaign - Integrated Motor Assist Controller Update 01-102 November 27, 2001 Applies To: 2000-01 Insight with M/T - See VEHICLES AFFECTED Product Update: IMA Controller Modification BACKGROUND The IMA (Integrated Motor Assist) system supplies power to various 12-volt loads on the vehicle (lights, radio, windows, etc.) and assists the engine to improve vehicle performance. In very cold weather, power demands on the IMA battery module can exceed output, causing permanent damage to the battery module. VEHICLES AFFECTED Not all 2000-01 Insights with M/T are affected by this product update. Only vehicles that are registered and normally driven in cold weather areas are affected. Before you begin, verify that the vehicle is registered in one of the states affected by the update (see the map). Then check for vehicle eligibility by doing one of the following. ^ Verify that the customer has a notification letter. ^ Check the vehicle's VIN on your campaign responsibility report. ^ Do a VIN status inquiry on DCS. CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION All owners of affected vehicles will be sent a notification of this product update. An example of the customer notification. CORRECTIVE ACTION Replace the battery condition monitor (BCM) module and the motor control module (MCM). PARTS INFORMATION Page 8856 Wire Color Abbreviations Page 10228 Power Window Switch: Testing and Inspection Passenger's Window Switch Test/Replacement Passenger's Window Switch Test/Replacement 1. Remove the passenger's door panel. 2. Disconnect the 5P connector (A) from the passenger's power window switch (B). 3. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table. 4. If the continuity is not as specified, remove the two screws and replace the switch. Page 5958 22. Left Rear of Engine Compartment Page 2424 - Always use Honda All Season Antifreeze/Coolant Type 2 (P/N OL999-9001). Using a non-Honda coolant can result in corrosion, causing the cooling system to malfunction or fail. - Honda All Season Antifreeze/Coolant Type 2 is a mixture of 50% antifreeze and 50% water. Premixing is not required. Engine Coolant Refill Capacity [including reservoir capacity of 0.4 L (0.4 US qt.): 2.5 L (2.6 US qt.) 10. Tighten the bleed bolt as soon as coolant starts to run out in a steady stream. 11. Pour Honda All Season Antifreeze/Coolant Type 2 into the radiator to the bottom of the filler neck, and install the radiator cap. 12. Remove the cap (A) from the water outlet, then install an 8 mm hose (B) and a funnel (C). 13. Pour Honda All Season Antifreeze/Coolant Type 2 into the funnel until the coolant level reaches the base of the funnel, then start the engine and let it idle. 14. Add Honda All Season Antifreeze/Coolant Type 2 into the funnel as the level goes down. 15. Stop the engine, then remove the funnel and the 8 mm hose from the water outlet. Install the cap. 16. Start the engine, and let it run until warmed up (radiator fan comes on at least twice). Then, turn off the engine, and let it cool down. 17. If necessary, add more Honda All Season Antifreeze/Coolant Type 2 into the radiator up to the base of the filler neck and into the reservoir up to the MAX mark. Page 8969 Headlamp Reminder Indicator: Diagnostic Aids Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Specifications Valve Clearance: Specifications Valves Clearance (cold) Intake ................................................................................................................................................... ................ 0.18 - 0.22 mm (0.007 - 0.009 inch) Exhaust ..................................................................... ........................................................................................... 0.21 - 0.25 mm (0.008 - 0.010 inch) Page 1730 Fluid - M/T: Testing and Inspection For further information, refer to Service and Repair. Service and Repair Fuel Pressure Release: Service and Repair Fuel Pressure Relieving Before disconnecting fuel pipes or hoses, release pressure from the system by loosening the sealing nut on top of the fuel rail. 1. Write down the frequencies for the radio's preset buttons. 2. Disconnect the battery negative cable from the battery negative terminal. 3. Remove the fuel fill cap. 4. Use a wrench on the sealing nut (A) at the fuel rail. 5. Place a rag or shop towel (B) over the sealing nut. 6. Slowly loosen the sealing nut one complete turn. NOTE: Replace all washers whenever the sealing nut is loosened or removed. Page 9748 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 4531 Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow from power at the top of the diagram to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another for example is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors Page 6429 Terminals - "T" Shielding Switches Fuses Locations Gauges - Component Location Index Page 3572 Idle Speed: Adjustments Idle Speed Adjustment NOTE: - Leave the idle air control (IAC) valve connected. - Before checking the idle speed, check these items: The malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) has not been reported on. - Ignition timing - Spark plugs - Air cleaner - PCV system - Pull the parking brake lever up. Start the engine, and make sure the headlights are off. 1. Disconnect the evaporative emission (EVAP) canister purge valve 2P connector. 2. Connect a tachometer (A) to the test tachometer connector (B), or connect the Honda PGM Tester (C) or an OBD II scan tool to the data link connector (DLC) (D) located under the driver's side of the dashboard. 3. Start the engine. Hold the engine at 3,000 rpm with no load (in Park or neutral) until the radiator fan comes on, then let it idle. 4. Check the idle speed with no-load conditions: headlights, blower fan, radiator fan, and air conditioner off. Page 4483 Splices Components Ground - "G" Page 9715 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. Page 1318 Oxygen Sensor: Description and Operation Secondary Oxygen Sensor Secondary Heated Oxygen Sensor (Secondary HO2S) The secondary HO2S detects the oxygen content in the exhaust gas downstream of the Three Way Catalytic Converter (TWC) and sends signals to the ECM which varies the duration of fuel injection accordingly. To stabilize its output, the sensor has an internal heater. The secondary HO2S is installed behind the TWC. Page 8074 Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution diagram set to get a more detailed picture of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Emissions - OBD II DTC's And Associated Monitors Engine Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins Emissions - OBD II DTC's And Associated Monitors 03-020 April 2, 2010 Applies To: All OBD II-equipped models except Passport OBD II DTCs and Their Associated Monitors (Supersedes 03-020, dated March 29, 2003, to revise the information marked by the black bars and asterisks) *REVISION SUMMARY Numerous DTCs were added. Refer to the list for details.* Following is a list of all OBD II DTCs and their associated monitors for all Honda automobiles with OBD II. No one model has every DTC in the list. DTC P0AA6 thru P0A9E Page 4063 30. Measure voltage between body ground and ECM connector terminals B1 and B9 individually. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 37. NO - Go to step 31. 31. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 32. Remove the PGM-FI main relay (IGP). 33. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 34. Measure voltage between PGM-FI main relay (IGP) 4P connector terminal No.2 and body ground. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 35. NO - Repair open in the wire between the No.7 (15 A) fuse and the PGM-FI main relay (IGP). 35. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 36. Check for continuity between PGM-FI main relay (IGP) 4P connector terminal No.1 and ECM connector terminals B1 and B9 individually. Is there continuity? YES - Replace the PGM-FI main relay (IGP). Page 3984 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. A/T - Vehicle Speed Sensor Installation Precautions Vehicle Speed Sensor: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Vehicle Speed Sensor Installation Precautions Install VSS Properly to Avoid Reman A/T Damage We can't emphasize enough how important it is to follow, to the letter, the installation instructions that come with a reman A/T. These instructions help ensure that you avoid damaging the A/T and score a successful repair. This is particularly true when it comes to installing the vehicle speed sensor (VSS). Step 6 of the instructions tells you to make sure its gear is fully engaged and the VSS is fully seated before you tighten the retaining bolt. If you don't install the VSS properly, the speed sensor gear will get stripped and the A/T will be seriously damaged. So don't take risks with your customer's vehicle. Always follow these instructions to the letter. You can rest assured you're doing the job right. Page 6033 Clutch Switch: Adjustments Clutch Pedal and Clutch Switch Adjustment NOTE: The clutch is self-adjusting to compensate for wear. - If there is no clearance between the master cylinder piston and push rod, the release bearing is held against the diaphragm spring, which can result in clutch slippage or other clutch problems. 1. Loosen locknut (A), and back off the adjusting bolt (B) until it no longer touches the clutch pedal (C). 2. Loosen locknut (D), and turn the push rod (E) in or out to get the specified stroke (F) and height (G) at the clutch pedal. Clutch Pedal Stroke: 130 - 140 mm (5.12 - 5.51 inch) Clutch Pedal Height: 192 mm (7.56 inch) to the floor 3. Tighten locknut (D). 4. Turn the adjusting bolt (B) in until it contacts the clutch pedal (C). 5. Turn the adjusting bolt (B) in an additional 3/4 to 1 turn. 6. Tighten locknut (A). 7. Loosen locknut (H) and the clutch interlock switch (1). 8. Fully depress the clutch pedal. 9. Release the clutch pedal 15 - 20 mm (0.59 - 0.79 inch) from the fully depressed position, and hold it there. Adjust the position of the clutch interlock switch (1) so that the engine will start with the clutch pedal in this position. 10. Tighten locknut (H). Master Switch Test/Replacement Power Window Switch: Testing and Inspection Master Switch Test/Replacement Master Switch Test/Replacement 1. Remove the instrument panel. 2. Disconnect the 14P connector (A) from the power window master switch (B). 3. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table. Driver's Switch: The driver's switch is combined with the control unit, so you cannot isolate the switch to test it. Instead, run the master switch input test procedures. If the tests are normal, the driver's switch must be faulty. 4. If the continuity is not as specified, remove the three screws and replace the switch. Page 1344 Vehicle Speed Sensor: Locations Gauges - Component Location Index Locations 42. Under Left Side of Dash Page 8670 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Page 4801 Front Page 4329 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. Page 8082 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Testing and Inspection Oxygen Sensor Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relay Test Normally-open type A: 1. Turn the battery module switch OFF, and measure the voltage. 2. Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is disconnected. A/C compressor clutch relay - Air fuel ratio sensor relay - Condenser fan relay - Daytime running lights relay (Canada) - Headlight relay 1 - Headlight relay 2 - High speed battery module fan control relay - High speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - High voltage conductor control relay - Horn relay - Ignition hold relay - Low speed battery module fan control relay - Low speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - Power window relay - Radiator fan relay - Rear window defogger relay - Reverse relay - Starter cut relay Page 2857 1. Inspect the cooling air intake behind the passenger seat and the cooling exhaust holes in the IMA case above the spare tire. If either is obstructed, remove the obstruction, and clear the code. Advise the customer that blocking the vents can cause this problem. 2. Remove the IMA cover (steps 3-10 of REPAIR PROCEDURE). Refer to page 12-4 of the 2000 Insight Service Manual. 3. Make sure the cooling fan on the battery pack is operating normally. Use the PGM Tester to run the fan in high and low speed modes. ^ If the fan is OK, check the part number on the battery condition monitor module. If the part number is not 1K100-PHM-030, then the battery condition monitor module and the motor control module need to be replaced. Go to REPAIR PROCEDURE. ^ If the fan is not OK, repair as needed. REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Write down the radio station presets. 2. Turn the ignition switch off, then disconnect the negative cable from the 12-volt battery in the engine compartment. 3. Remove the cargo area carpet and the cargo box. (Refer to page 20-43 of the Insight Service Manual). Page 6593 Multiple Junction Connector: Service and Repair How to Install New Terminals HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. Page 7173 Ambient Temperature Sensor / Switch HVAC: Service and Repair Outside Air Temperature Sensor Replacement 1. Remove the outside air temperature sensor (A), then disconnect the 2P connector (B). 2. Install the sensor in the reverse order of removal. Page 6560 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. Page 5888 35. Left Rear of Engine Compartment Page 8771 Wire Color Coding Distinct Of Circuit By Wire Base Color All wires have color-coded insulation. Wires belonging to a system's main harness will have a single color. Wires belonging to a system's sub-circuits will have a colored stripe. Striped wires use the codes found in the chart to show wire size and colors. Abbreviations are used to indicate wire color within a circuit diagram. Wire Color Abbreviations The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics: WHT................................... White YEL................................... Yellow BLK................................... Black BLU................................... Blue GRN................................... Green RED................................... Red ORN................................... Orange PNK................................... Pink BRN................................... Brown GRY................................... Gray PUR................................... Purple LT BLU................................... Light Blue LT GRN................................... Light Green The wire insulation has one color or one color with another color stripe. The second color is the stripe. How to Identify Connector Terminals How to Identify Connector Terminals Page 7538 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. Page 4749 All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416 etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector or by a capital letter (A, B, C etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Connector Views that shows the connector terminals wire colors connector cavity numbers and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints shown on diagram [8] . Except for the DLC (data link connector) disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554 for example means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Page 739 111. Rear Window Defogger, Fuel Cut, Radiator Fan Main (Climate Control) And Intermittent Wiper Relays Page 9701 License Plate Lamp: Diagnostic Aids Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Diagram Information and Instructions Map Light: Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System Terminal Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown below is #6. Page 315 9. Connect the PGM Tester to the data link connector (DLC). 10. Use the PGM Tester to program the customer's immobilizer key codes into the ECM. Verity that all the keys will start the engine. 11. Center-punch a completion mark above the first character (J) of the engine compartment VIN. Disclaimer Page 1739 Engine Oil: Service Precautions SAFETY PRECAUTIONS WARNING: Prolonged and repeated contact with used engine oil may cause skin cancer. Avoid prolonged and repeated contact with oils, particularly used engine oils. - Wear protective clothing, including impervious gloves where practicable. - Do not put oily rags in pockets. - Avoid contaminating clothes, particularly underpants, with oil. - Heavily soiled clothing and oil-impregnated footwear should not be worn. Overalls must be cleaned regularly. - First Aid treatment should be obtained immediately for open cuts and wounds. - Use barrier creams, applying them before each work period, to help the removal of oil from the skin. - Wash with soap and water to ensure all oil is removed (skin cleansers and nail brushes will help). Preparations containing lanolin replace the natural skin oils which have been removed. - Do not use gasoline, kerosine, diesel fuel, gas oil, thinner or solvents for cleaning skin. - If skin disorders develop, obtain medical advice without delay. - Where practicable, degrease components prior to handling. - Where there is a risk of eye contact, eye protection should be worn, for example, chemical goggles or face shields; in addition an eye wash facility should be provided. Page 1895 Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box Page 5458 Shifter CVT: Service and Repair Shift Lever Installation Shift Lever Installation 1. Install the shift lever assembly. 2. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and verify that the R position indicator comes on. 3. If necessary, push the shift cable (A) until it stops, then release it. Pull the shift cable back one step so that the shift position is in the R. Do not push and pull the shift cable by holding the shift cable guide (B). 4. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 5. Insert a 6.0 mm (0.24 inch) pin (A) through the positioning hole (B) on the shift lever bracket base and into the positioning hole (C) on the shift lever. The shift lever is secured in the R position. Page 276 Relay Box: Electrical Diagrams Connector-to-Fuse/Relay Box Index Image 6-1 Recall - Emissions/ECM Replacement Technical Service Bulletin # 02-081 Date: 021217 Recall - Emissions/ECM Replacement 02-081 December 17, 2002 Applies To: 2000 Insight - ALL 2001 Insight with M/T - ALL Emissions Recall: Insight ECM BACKGROUND The ECM does not correctly identify all malfunctions of the air/fuel ratio sensor (sensor 1). Because of this, the vehicle does not meet state and federal emissions regulations. CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION All owners of affected vehicles will be mailed a notification of this campaign. The customer notification letter is shown in this service bulletin. CORRECTIVE ACTION Replace the ECM. After you replace the ECM, reinitialize the immobilizer system, and do the idle learn procedure. PARTS INFORMATION WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION Operation Number: 122124 Flat Rate Time: 1.0 hour Failed Part: P/N 37820-PHM-A01 H/C 6344626 Defect Code: 5BL Contention Code: L78 Skill Level: Repair Technician REPAIR PROCEDURE NOTE: Make sure you have all of your customer's keys. 1. Carefully remove the passenger's door sill trim. If you break any of the trim clips, replace them (P/N 91560-S06-003, H/C 6353502). Page 6927 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. Diagrams 185. Idle Stop Switch (CVT) Page 4548 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. Page 3310 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 4281 ECM/PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector C (31P) Part 1 Page 386 DTC U0100 thru U1288 Disclaimer Page 9085 57. Measure voltage between body ground and ECM connector terminal B6. Is there about 5 V? YES - Substitute a known-good TCM and recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away, replace the original TCM. NO - Go to step 58. 58. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 59. Disconnect ECM connector B (25P). 60. Check for continuity between ECM connector terminal B6 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Repair short in the wire between the ECM (B6) and the TCM. NO - Update the ECM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM, replace the original ECM. 61. Measure voltage between ECM connector terminal B17 and body ground. Is there about 5 V (or battery voltage)? YES - Go to step 65. NO - Go to step 62. 62. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 63. Disconnect ECM connector B (25P). Page 2112 Connecting Rod: Testing and Inspection Connecting Rod and Crankshaft End Play Inspection 1. Remove the cam chain. 2. Measure the connecting rod end play with a feeler gauge between the connecting rod and crankshaft. Connecting Rod End Play: Standard (New): 0.15 - 0.30 mm (0.006 - 0.012 inch) Service Limit: 0.40 mm (0.016 inch) 3. If the connecting rod end play is out-of-tolerance, install a new connecting rod, and recheck. If it is still out-of-tolerance; replace the crankshaft. 4. Push the crankshaft firmly away from the dial indicator, and zero the dial against the end of the crankshaft. Then pull the crankshaft firmly back toward the indicator; the dial reading should not exceed the service limit. Crankshaft End Play: Standard (New): 0.10 - 0.35 mm (0.004 - 0.014 inch) Service Limit: 0.45 mm (0.018 inch) 5. If end play is excessive, replace the thrust washers and recheck. If it is still out-of-tolerance, replace the crankshaft. Page 1183 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. Page 3022 130. Motor Commutation Sensor Page 3978 Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow from power at the top of the diagram to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another for example is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors Page 8775 Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution diagram set to get a more detailed picture of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Page 8651 Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution diagram set to get a more detailed picture of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Page 6386 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. Page 9628 Hazard Warning Flasher: Application and ID PLEASE NOTE: The flasher function for this vehicle is provided by the Turn Signal/Hazard Relay. Service and Repair Fuel Door Release Lever: Service and Repair Fuel Fill Door Opener Replacement NOTE: Take care not to kink the cable. 1. Remove the carpet as necessary. 2. Remove the fuel fill door opener as shown. 3. Install the fuel fill door opener in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - Make sure the fuel fill door opener cable is connected properly. - Make sure the fuel fill door opens properly. Page 7115 Splices Components Ground - "G" Page 1590 ^ If the wheels are pointed to the right, shorten the driver's side tie-rod, and lengthen the passenger's side. ^ If the wheels are pointed to the left, shorten the passenger's side tie-rod, and lengthen the driver's side. ^ Each 360° turn of the tie-rod equals about 8 mm of steering wheel adjustment. For example, a steering wheel is off-center by 4 mm with the front wheels pointed right (when the steering wheel is centered). To correct the off-center, shorten the driver's side tie-rod by a half-turn, and lengthen the passenger's side tie-rod by a half-turn. 4. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC. Page 6653 Fuse-to-Components Index Image 6-3 Page 6923 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: Page 2414 Water Pump: Testing and Inspection Inspection 1. Loosen the idler pulley center nut (A). Turn the adjusting bolt (B) clockwise (counterclockwise for models without A/C compressor), then remove the water pump-A/C compressor belt or water pump belt (C). 2. Turn the water pump pulley clockwise. Check that it turns freely. 3. Check for signs of seal leakage. A small amount of "weeping" from the bleed hole (A) is normal. Locations 39. Upper Left Kick Panel Area Page 4482 Connectors - "C" Page 2192 1. Apply a force of 98 N (10 kgf, 22 lbs.), and measure the deflection at the mid point (A) between the water pump and crankshaft pulleys. If the belt is worn or damaged, replace it. If the belt needs adjustment, go to step 2. Adjustment 2. Loosen the idler pulley center nut (B). 3. Turn the adjusting bolt (C) to obtain the proper belt deflection, then retighten the idler pulley center nut. 4. Recheck the belt deflection. 5. If you installed a new belt, run the engine for five minutes, then readjust the belt to the used belt specification. Without A/C Water Pump-A/C Compressor Belt Inspection and Adjustment // Without A/C Special Tools Required - Belt tension gauge 07JGG-001010A Belt Tension Gauge Method Inspection 1. Remove the right rear splash shield. 2. Attach the belt tension gauge to the belt, and measure the tension. Follow the gauge manufacturer's instructions. If the belt is worn or damaged, replace it. If the belt needs adjustment, gotostep3. Adjustment 3. Loosen the idler pulley center nut (A). 4. Turn the adjusting bolt (B) to obtain the proper belt tension, then retighten the idler pulley center nut. 5. Recheck the belt tension. Component Locations Power Door Locks - Component Location Index Component Locations Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Component Locations Component Location Index Page 6592 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Ball Joint Removal Ball Joint: Service and Repair Ball Joint Removal Removal Special Tools Required Ball joint remover, 28 mm 07MAC-SL00200 NOTE: Always use a ball joint remover to disconnect a ball joint. Do not strike the housing or any other part of the ball joint connection to disconnect it. 1. Install a hex nut onto the threads of the ball joint. Make sure the nut is flush with the ball joint pin end to prevent damage to the thread end of the ball joint pin. 2. Apply grease to the special tool on the areas shown (A). This will ease installation of the tool and prevent damage to the pressure bolt (B) threads. 3. Install the special tool as shown. Insert the jaws carefully, making sure not to damage the ball joint boot. Adjust the jaw spacing by turning the pressure bolt. 4. Once the special tool is in place, turn the adjusting bolt (A) as necessary to make the jaws parallel. Then hand-tighten the pressure bolt (B), and recheck the jaws to make sure they are still parallel. 5. After making the adjustment to the adjusting bolt, make sure the head of the adjusting bolt (A) is in the position shown to allow the jaw (C) to Page 4021 Diodes How to Identify Wiring Color-Coded Insulation Wire Color Page 7908 2003-04 Accord DX with dealer-installed security system 2003-04 Element with dealer-installed keyless entry system or security system 2004 Element EX with factory-installed keyless entry system or dealer-installed security system 2003-04 Pilot EX models with factory-installed security system* Programming the Transmitter NOTES: ^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased. ^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the programming mode. ^ You must complete steps 1-6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from exiting the programming mode. 1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter can be used for this step.) 3. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 4. Repeat steps 1, 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2. 5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode. 7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted the transmitter's code. 8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda using normal parts ordering procedures. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery. 91-93 Accord 5-D00R EX Page 7053 Wheel Bearing: Service and Repair Rear Hub Bearing Unit Replacement NOTICE: To avoid damage, do not strike aluminum parts with a metal hammer. If necessary, tap gently with a plastic tipped hammer. NOTE: Bolts and nuts with the [star] mark are special corrosion-resistant Dacro fasteners. Use the same type if replacement is necessary. 1. Raise the rear of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper location. 2. Remove the fender skirt. 3. Remove the center cap (A), wheel nuts (B), and rear wheel (C). Page 2707 11. Use the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) with version 1.011.014 or later software to clear any set DTCs. 12. Reinstall the IPU lid and the mid-frame cover bolts. Torque the bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb-ft). 13. Reinstall the right trunk shelf support. Torque the bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb-ft). 14. Remove the battery module switch locking cover, and flip the switch to ON. Reinstall the locking cover. 15. Reinstall the battery module switch cover. 16. Reinstall the cargo floor mat. 17. Return the vehicle to your customer. Advise your customer that it is OK to drive the vehicle as is until the replacement parts arrive, but the vehicle will have reduced power (no IMA assist). 18. Order a battery module and, if needed, a BCM, an MCM, or both. REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Remove the battery module from the vehicle (see page 12-113 of the service manual). (In ISIS, use the keyword BAT MOD, and select Battery Module Removal/Installation from the list.) 2. Remove the lifting tool from the battery module. 3. Remove the mounting bolts for the MCM and the BCM (eight total). Unplug the electrical connectors (five for the MCM and three for the BCM), then remove the modules. 4. Install the MCM and the BCM in the new battery module. Use the original MCM and BCM if no replacement was needed; otherwise, use the appropriate replacement parts. Torque the mounting bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb-ft). 5. Install the lifting tool on the battery module. 6. With someone to help you, carefully lift the battery module into the vehicle, and set it down into position. Remove the lifting tool. 7. Plug in the connectors, and install the Y condenser harness. Then install the mounting bolts. Torque the bolts to 24 N.m (17 lb-ft). 8. Install the battery module air duct. Torque the bolt to 9.8 N~m (7.2 lb-ft). 9. Connect the high voltage cables to the junction board. Torque the bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb-ft). 10. Install the front and rear IPU braces and the mid-frame. Torque the bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb-ft). 11. Install the foam inserts. Page 8214 Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow from power at the top of the diagram to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another for example is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors Page 2029 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: Driver's Air Bag - Replace Torx Bolts Properly Air Bag: Technical Service Bulletins Driver's Air Bag - Replace Torx Bolts Properly SOURCE: Honda Service News September 2004 TITLE: Replace Drivers Air Bag Torx Bolts Properly APPLIES TO: All Models SERVICE TIP: When replacing a drivers's side air bag, make sure you replace the torx bolts properly. When removing the bolts, use a high-quality bit, making sure the bit is aligned. DON'T USE AIR TOOLS. When installing bolts, always start the bolts by hand to avoid cross-treading, and torque the bolts to the value listed in the service manual. Page 4651 10. Measure voltage between ECM connector terminals A31 and B20. Is there battery voltage? YES - Replace the idle stop switch. NO - Go to step 11. 11. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 12. Disconnect ECM connector A (32P). 13. Check for continuity between ECM connector terminal A31 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Repair short in the wire between the ECM (A31) and the idle stop switch. NO - Update the ECM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM, replace the original ECM. 14. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 15. Disconnect the idle stop switch 2P connector. 16. Check for continuity between the idle stop switch 2P connector terminals No.1 and No.2. Is there continuity? YES - Go to step 17. NO - Replace the idle stop switch. A/F Sensor Replacement Oxygen Sensor: Service and Repair A/F Sensor Replacement A/F Sensor Replacement 1. Disconnect the A/F sensor 4P or 8P connector (A), and remove the A/F sensor (B). 2. Install the A/F sensor in the reverse order of removal. Locations Condenser Fan Motor Relay: Locations Relay And Control Unit Location - Engine Compartment Page 4847 112. Fuel Tank Unit Page 7197 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. Page 3420 Cylinder Identification Sensor: Diagrams TDC Sensor #1 TDC Sensor #2 Diagram Information and Instructions Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System Terminal Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown below is #6. Page 10181 40. Upper Left Kick Panel Area Page 7155 1. Check the No. 16 (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box. Is the fuse OK? YES - Go to step 2. NO - Replace the fuse, and recheck. 2. Disconnect the recirculation control motor 4P connector. 3. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 4. Measure the voltage between the No. 1 terminal of the recirculation control motor 4P connector and body ground. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 5. NO - Repair open in the wire between the recirculation control motor and the No. 16 fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box. 5. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 6. Test the recirculation control motor. Is the recirculation control motor OK? YES - Go to step 7. NO - Go to step 12. 7. Disconnect heater control panel connector B (22P). 8. Check for continuity between the No. 18 and No. 19 terminals of heater control panel connector B (22P) and body ground individually. Is there continuity? YES - Repair any short to body ground in the wire(s) between the heater control panel and the recirculation control motor. NO - Go to step 9. Page 9487 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 1678 Cabin Air Filter: Service and Repair Climate Control Dust and Pollen Filter Replacement The dust and pollen filter should be replaced every 15,000 miles (24,000 km) or 12 months whichever comes first. Replace the filter more often if the air flow is less than usual. 1. Remove the glove box and the center lower cover. 2. Cut the plastic cross brace in the glove box opening with diagonal cutters in the area shown, and discard it. 3. Remove the bolts and the glove box frame. 4. Remove the filter lid (A) from the evaporator, then remove the dust and pollen filter (B) by pulling it. Page 8367 All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416 etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector or by a capital letter (A, B, C etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Connector Views that shows the connector terminals wire colors connector cavity numbers and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints shown on diagram [8] . Except for the DLC (data link connector) disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554 for example means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Page 1612 17. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 18. Measure voltage between idle stop switch 2P connector terminal No.2 and body ground. Is there battery voltage? YES - Repair open in the wire between the idle stop switch and G402. NO - Repair open in the wire between the ECM (A31) and the idle stop switch. Page 6558 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Page 9475 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 3903 ECM/PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector B (25P) Part 2 Page 8731 Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow from power at the top of the diagram to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another for example is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors Page 3855 ECU Module Kit: P/N 06060-PHM-305, H/C 6912901 WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION Operation Number: 118121 Flat Rate Time: 0.8 hour Failed Part: P/N 1K100-PHM-010 H/C 6377170 Defect Code: 5AG Contention Code: L43 Template ID: 01-102A Skill Level: Repair Technician Disclaimer Repair Procedure 1. Write down the radio station presets. 2. Make sure the ignition switch is off, then disconnect the negative cable from the under-hood 12 V battery. 3. Remove the cargo floor mat and the cargo box (see page 20-43 of the 2000 Insight Service Manual). 4. Remove the battery module switch cover, then remove the locking cover from the switch. 5. Turn off the battery module switch. Reinstall the locking cover on the switch, and remove the 5 mm bolt on the side of the switch. 6. Wait at least 5 minutes for the capacitors in the system to discharge. Page 7911 1997-01 CR-V with dealer-installed security system 1996-97 del Sol with dealer-installed security system 1996-98 Odyssey with dealer-installed security system *1999-04 Odyssey LX with dealer-installed keyless entry system or security system* 1996-01 Prelude with dealer-installed security system *2000-04 S2000 with dealer-installed security system 2000-04 Insight with dealer-installed security system 2003-04 Pilot LX with dealer-installed keyless entry system or security system* Programming the Transmitter NOTES: ^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased. ^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the programming mode. ^ You must complete steps 1-6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from exiting the programming mode. 1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter can be used for this step.) 3. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 4. Repeat steps 1, 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2. 5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode. 7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted the transmitter's code. 8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda using normal parts ordering procedures. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery. Page 2280 Connectors - "C" Page 6703 Connector-to-Fuse/Relay Box Index Image 6-4 Page 5106 Crankshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair Replacement 1. Disconnect the CKP sensor connector, then remove the CKP sensor (A). 2. Install the CKP sensor using a new O-ring (B). Page 4407 10. Middle of Engine Page 154 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. Page 9244 48. Left Side of Steering Column Page 1851 Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box Page 8227 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: Page 1946 19. Install the hub bearing unit (A) on the knuckle (B), and tighten the flange bolts (C) to the specified torque. 20. Install the splash guard. NOTE: Replace the splash guard if it is corroded. 21. Press a new hub bearing unit (A) into the hub (B) using the special tools and a press. 22. Install the knuckle/hub/hub bearing unit in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - Use a new spindle nut on reassembly. - Before installing the new spindle nut, apply a small amount of engine oil to the seating surface of the nut. After tightening, use a drift to stake the spindle nut shoulder against the driveshaft. - Tighten all mounting hardware to the specified torque values. - Before installing the hub/hub bearing unit, clean the mating surface of the hub/hub bearing unit and the knuckle. - Before installing the brake disc, clean the mating surface of the hub and the inside of the brake disc. - Before installing the wheel, clean the mating surface of the brake disc and the inside of the wheel. - Set the wheel alignment. Page 4004 7. Front of Engine Locations Body Control Module: Locations 109. Top Front of Battery Module 110. Top Rear of Battery Module Page 8040 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. Page 4688 Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow from power at the top of the diagram to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another for example is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors Page 580 Fuel Pump Relay: Testing and Inspection PGM-FI Main Relay Test PGM-FI Main Relay Test Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No.3 and No.4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals when power is disconnected. Hybrid System - IMA Battery Module Warranty Extension Technical Service Bulletin # 06-057 Date: 110316 Hybrid System - IMA Battery Module Warranty Extension 06-057 March 16, 2011 Applies To: 2000-04 Insight - See VEHICLES AFFECTED Warranty Extension: Insight IMA Battery Module (Supersedes 06-057, dated October 18, 2007, to revise the information marked by the black bars and asterisks) *REVISION SUMMARY Under WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION, some operation number and flat rate time information was changed.* BACKGROUND NOTE: Because of a class action settlement, the warranty extension coverage for the IMA battery module on 2002-04 Insights purchased or leased between April 13, 2002, and November 7, 2006, is now 10 years or 157,500 miles, whichever occurs first. For more information, refer to Service Bulletin 06-085 Warranty Extension: Vehicle Warranty Mileage. To ensure continued reliability with the IMA system, American Honda is announcing an IMA battery module warranty extension for certain 2000-04 Insights. The IMA battery module is now covered for 10 years or 150,000 miles, whichever occurs first. This warranty extension applies to the 43 states not already covered by Service Bulletin 06-027, Warranty Extension: IMA Battery VEHICLES AFFECTED This warranty extension affects 2000-04 Insights registered in the shaded states on this map*: *2000-04 Insights registered in Arizona, California, Colorado, Florida, Hawaii, Nevada, and Texas are covered by Service Bulletin 06-027, Warranty Extension: IMA Battery. CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION Owners of affected vehicles within the 43 affected states will receive a notification of this warranty extension. An example of the warranty extension notification is at the end of this service bulletin. To verify warranty extension eligibility, you must do a VIN status inquiry. CORRECTIVE ACTION Replace the IMA battery module if it has failed. In addition, replace the battery condition monitor and the motor control module on 2000-01 models or, on 2002-04 models, replace the battery condition monitor only. Page 9817 Terminals - "T" Shielding Switches Fuses Emissions/Engine Controls - MIL ON/DTC P1457 (EVAP) Engine Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins Emissions/Engine Controls - MIL ON/DTC P1457 (EVAP) 03-001 January 28, 2003 Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED MIL Comes On With DTC P1457: EVAP Bypass Solenoid Valve Failure SYMPTOM The MIL is on, and DTC P1457 [leak detected in EVAP control system (EVAP control canister system)] is set. PROBABLE CAUSE The EVAP bypass solenoid valve can fail due to corrosion. The solenoid valve may get water inside. If the water contains road salt, the solenoid windings could corrode, causing the valve to fail. In a few rare instances, the corrosion could be severe enough to cause an internal short in the solenoid valve, which could damage the ECM/PCM. If this happens, both the bypass solenoid valve and the ECM/PCM would need to be replaced. Vehicles driven in the Northeastern part of the U.S. are more likely to have this problem because of the salting of roads during the winter months. Vehicles driven where salt is not used on the roads are much less likely to have this problem. VEHICLES AFFECTED 1998-02 Accord 1998-00 Civic 1998-01 CR-V 2000-02 Insight 1999-03 Odyssey 2003 Pilot 2000-03 S2000 CORRECTIVE ACTION Test and, if necessary, replace the EVAP bypass solenoid valve. Replace the ECM/PCM if needed. PARTS INFORMATION Refer to the parts catalog for the appropriate part number and Honda code. WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Failed Part: EVAP Bypass Solenoid Valve: Page 442 First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 1196 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. Page 6925 EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 9488 Interior Lights - Dash And Console LightsCeiling Lights Image 114-1 Page 8649 Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow from power at the top of the diagram to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another for example is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors Page 4879 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. Page 5967 8. Raise the front of the battery box bracket (A), and pull out the brake booster (B) from the engine compartment. 9. Install the brake booster in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: ^ Adjust the pushrod length before installing the brake booster. ^ After installing, adjust the brake pedal height and brake pedal free play. ^ Use a new O-ring and cotter pin whenever installing. Page 2501 Heater Control Valve Cable: Adjustments Heater Valve Cable Adjustment 1. From under the hood, open the cable clamp (A), then disconnect the heater valve cable (B) from the heater valve arm (C). 2. From under the dash, disconnect the heater valve cable housing from the cable clamp (A), and disconnect the heater valve cable (B) from the air mix control linkage (C). 3. Set the temperature control dial on Max Cool with the ignition switch ON (II). 4. Attach the heater valve cable (B) to the air mix control linkage (C) as shown. Hold the end of the heater valve cable housing against the stop (D), then snap the heater valve cable housing into the cable clamp (A). 5. From under the hood, turn the heater valve arm (C) to the fully closed position as shown, and hold it. Attach the heater valve cable (B) to the heater valve arm, and gently pull on the heater valve cable housing to take up any slack, then install the heater valve cable housing into the cable clamp (A). Locations Air Bag Control Module: Locations Relay And Control Unit Locations - Dashboard Page 7619 A battery voltage (B+) circuit which is only powered with the ignition switch in the ON, or START positions. Initiator The electrical component inside the air bag assembly which, when sufficient current flows, sets off the chemical reaction that inflates the air bag. "Initiator Assembly Resistance Test" Tests performed once each ignition cycle when no malfunctions are detected during "Turn-ON" or "Continuous Monitoring." This test checks for the correct SDM configuration for the vehicle, shorts to "Ignition 1 in the deployment loops, high resistance or opens in the "Driver Side High", "Driver Side Low", "Passenger Side High" and "Passenger Side Low" circuits and measures the resistance of the inflator assembly consisting of: 1. Initiators. 2. SRS coil assembly (driver side only). 3. Connectors and associated wiring. Normal Operating Voltage Range The voltage measured between the SDM "Ignition 1" terminals and "Ground" terminals is between 9 and 16 volts. Passenger Current Source An output of the SDM which applies current into the passenger air bag assembly circuit during the "Initiator Assembly Resistance Test". Passenger Air Bag Assembly An assembly located in the right side of the instrument panel consisting of an inflatable bag, an inflator and an initiator. Scan Tool An external computer used to read diagnostic information from on-board computers via the data link connector. SDM Sensing and Diagnostic Module which provides reserve energy to the deployment loops, deploys the air bags when required and performs diagnostic monitoring of all SRS components. Serial Data Information representing the status of the SRS. SRS Supplemental Restraint System. SRS Coil Assembly An assembly of two current-carrying coils in the driver deployment loop that allows the rotation of the steering wheel while maintaining the continuous contact of the driver deployment loop to the driver air bag assembly. SRS Wiring Harness The wires and connectors that electrically connect the components in the SRS. "Turn-ON" Test which the SDM performs on the SRS once during each ignition cycle immediately after "Ignition 1" voltage is applied to the SDM and before "Continuous Monitoring". Page 9633 129. Hazard Warning Switch Page 4654 5. Adjust the idle speed. If necessary, by turning the idle adjusting screw (A) 1/2-turn clockwise or counterclockwise. NOTE: - Do not turn the idle adjusting screw (A) more than 1/2-turn without checking the idle speed. - Do not turn the idle adjusting screw when the air conditioner is on. 6. After turning the idle adjusting screw (A) 1/2-turn, check the idle speed again. If it is out of spec, turn the idle adjusting screw (A) 1/2-turn again. 7. Let the engine idle for 1 minute with the heater fan switch on HI and air conditioner on, then check the idle speed. NOTE: If the idle speed is not within specification, go to the Symptom Troubleshooting index. See: Computers and Control Systems/Testing and Inspection/Symptom Related Diagnostic Procedures 8. Reconnect the EVAP canister purge valve 2P connector. 9. Do the ECM idle learn procedure. Specifications Valve Clearance: Specifications Valves Clearance (cold) Intake ................................................................................................................................................... ................ 0.18 - 0.22 mm (0.007 - 0.009 inch) Exhaust ..................................................................... ........................................................................................... 0.21 - 0.25 mm (0.008 - 0.010 inch) Page 4719 Fuel Line Coupler: Service and Repair Fuel Line/Quick-Connect Fittings Precaution The fuel tube/quick-connect fittings assembly connects the in-tank fuel pump to the fuel feed pipe and the fuel return pipe. When removing or installing the fuel pump and fuel tank, it is necessary to disconnect or connect the quick-connect fittings. Pay attention to following: - The fuel tubes (A) and quick-connect fittings (B) are not heat-resistant; be careful not to damage them during welding or other heat-generating procedures. - The fuel tubes and quick-connect fittings are not acid-proof; do not touch them with a shop towel which was used for wiping battery electrolyte. Replace them if they came into contact with electrolyte or something similar. - When connecting or disconnecting the fuel tubes and quick-connect fittings, be careful not to bend or twist them excessively. Replace them if damaged. A disconnected quick-connect fitting can be reconnected, but the retainer on the mating pipe cannot be reused once it has been removed from the pipe. Replace the retainer when - replacing the fuel tank. - replacing the fuel pump. - replacing the fuel filter. - replacing the fuel feed pipe. - replacing the fuel return pipe. - it has been removed from the pipe. - it is damaged. Fuel Line/Quick-Connect Fittings Removal 1. Disconnect the battery negative cable. 2. Remove the fuel fill cap, and relieve fuel pressure in the tank. 3. Relieve fuel pressure. 4. Check the fuel quick-connect fittings for dirt, and clean if necessary. 5. Hold the connector (A) with one hand, and squeeze the retainer tabs (B) with the other hand to release them from the locking pawls (C). Pull the connector off. NOTE: - Be careful not to damage the pipe (D) or other parts. Do not use tools. - If the connector does not move, keep the retainer tabs pressed down, and alternately pull and push the connector until it comes off easily. - Do not remove the retainer from the pipe; once removed, the retainer must be replaced with a new one. Page 6269 Removal/Installation Throttle Body: Service and Repair Removal/Installation Throttle Body Removal/Installation NOTE: - Do not adjust the throttle stop screw. - After reassembly, adjust the throttle cable. - The TP sensor is not removable. Page 6553 First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 8992 - If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system. - If all the input tests prove OK, go to step 5. 5. Connect the connectors to the gauge assembly and make these input tests at the connector. - If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system. - If all the input tests prove OK, replace the printed circuit board in the gauge assembly. Page 9643 32. Left Front Side of Engine Compartment Page 3232 Connectors - "C" Page 7368 Cavity Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity / terminal shown is # 6. Circuit Schematics Locations 135. Under Right Side of Kick Panel (CVT) Locations Page 3316 10. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and measure voltage between ECM connector terminals B1 and B20, and between B9 and B20. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 11. NO - Check for an open in the wires between the PGM-FI main relay and the ECM (B1, B9). If the wires are OK, replace the PGM-FI main relay. 11. Turn the ignition switch OFF, then ON (II) again, and measure voltage between ECM connector terminals A15 and B2 within the first two seconds after the ignition switch is turned ON (II). Is there 1.0 V or less? YES - The PGM-FI main relay may be faulty. NO - Update the ECM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM, replace the original ECM. Page 9992 8. Horn Switch Page 3704 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. Locations Windshield Washer Switch: Locations 50. Right Side of Steering Column Page 457 172. ECM Page 6589 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 788 Power Door Lock Switch: Diagrams 81. Door Lock Knob Switch/Lock Actuator, Driver's 82. Door Lock Switch, Driver's Page 7700 Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Service Precautions Precautions For Electrical Inspections Precautions For Electrical Inspections When using electrical test equipment, insert the probe of the tester into the wire side of the connector. Do not insert the probe of the tester into the terminal side of the connector, and do not tamper with the connector. Use a U-shaped probe. Do not insert the probe forcibly. Use specified service connectors in troubleshooting. Using improper tools could cause an error in inspection due to poor metal-to-metal contact. Page 2552 Radiator Cooling Fan Temperature Sensor / Switch: Service and Repair Radiator Fan Switch Replacement 1. Disconnect the radiator fan switch connector, then remove the radiator fan switch (A). 2. Install the radiator fen switch using a new O-ring (B). Page 4177 PARTS INFORMATION Engine Control Module: P/N 06380-PHM-A00, H/C 6441117 WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Carefully remove the passenger's side door sill trim. 2. Remove the two carpet hold-down clips on the door sill. 3. Remove the carpet hold-down clip in the passenger's footwell under the glove box. Pull back the carpet. 4. Remove the ECM cover mounting nuts. 5. Pivot the lower edge of the ECM cover off the mounting studs. Lift the upper edge of the cover off the mounting studs, then pull the cover down and back so it clears the evaporator drain tube. 6. Remove the two bolts mounting the ECM to the cover. Disconnect the ECM connectors. 7. Install the new ECM in the reverse order of removal. 8. Reinstall the carpet and the door sill trim. Page 3457 11. Middle of Engine Locations Radiator Cooling Fan Motor Relay: Locations Relay And Control Unit Location - Engine Compartment Page 2227 Engine Oil Pressure: Testing and Inspection Test If the low oil pressure indicator stays on with the engine running, check the engine oil level. If the oil level is correct: 1. Connect a tachometer. 2. Remove the oil pressure switch, and install an oil pressure gauge (A). 3. Install the throttle body. 4. Start the engine. Shut it off immediately if the gauge registers no oil pressure. Repair the problem before continuing. 5. Allow the engine to reach operating temperature (fan comes on at least twice). The pressure should be: Engine Oil Temperature: 176°F (80°C) Engine Oil Pressure: At Idle: 70 kPa (0.7 kgf/cm2, 10 psi) minimum At 3,000 rpm: 340 kPa (3.5 kgf/cm2, 50 psi) minimum 6. If oil pressure is NOT within specifications, inspect the oil pump. 7. After inspection, install the oil pressure switch. Page 4981 10. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and measure voltage between ECM connector terminals B1 and B20, and between B9 and B20. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 11. NO - Check for an open in the wires between the PGM-FI main relay and the ECM (B1, B9). If the wires are OK, replace the PGM-FI main relay. 11. Turn the ignition switch OFF, then ON (II) again, and measure voltage between ECM connector terminals A15 and B2 within the first two seconds after the ignition switch is turned ON (II). Is there 1.0 V or less? YES - The PGM-FI main relay may be faulty. NO - Update the ECM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM, replace the original ECM. Locations Alarm/Immobilizer Control Unit: Locations Relay And Control Unit Locations - Dashboard 44. Under Left Side of Dash (Honda Accessory) Page 6680 In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locater) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: - Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. Page 5181 5. If spark plugs need to be replaced, select the spark plugs according to the designation on the cylinder head and the table shown. 6. Apply a small quantity of anti-seize compound to the plug threads, and screw the plugs into the cylinder head finger-tight. The torque them to 23 N.m (2.3 kgf.m,17 lbf.ft). NOTE: If a spark plug is to be reused, use it in the cylinder where the plug was originally located. Front Seat Belt: Service and Repair Front Seat Belt Replacement SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations and the precautions and procedures before performing repairs or service. NOTE: Check the seat belts for damage, and replace them if necessary. Be careful not to damage them during removal and installation. Seat Belt Buckle 1. Remove the seat, and remove the center cover. NOTE: On the driver's seat belt buckle, to get to the seat belt switch connector, pull the seat cushion cover back by releasing the hooks. 2. Remove the seat belt buckle in the numbered sequence. 3. Install in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - Assemble the washer and collar on the center anchor bolt. Refer to the Anchor Bolt Construction. - Apply liquid thread lock to the center anchor bolt before reinstallation. - To prevent wrinkles in the seat cushion cover, stretch the material evenly over the pad (on the driver's seat). - Apply liquid thread lock to the seat mounting bolts before reinstallation. Page 3810 DTC P0563 thru P0748 Page 8866 Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution diagram set to get a more detailed picture of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Page 7070 Tires: Testing and Inspection Tread Wear Indicators The original equipment tires have built-in tread wear indicators (l) to show when tires need replacement. These indicators may appear as wide bands. When the indicators appear in two or more grooves at three locations, tire replacement is recommended. Page 9167 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 9055 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. Page 3689 Data Link Connector: Diagnostic Aids Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Page 361 18. Remove the EPS fuse from the under-hood fusel relay box. 19. With the transmission in neutral and the clutch released, run the engine at 3,500 rpm until the battery level indicator shows at least 50 percent charge. 20. Turn off the engine, then install the EPS fuse. 21. Enter the radio station presets, and set the clock. 22. Center-punch a completion mark above the sixth character of the engine compartment VIN. Page 7977 ^ Click on Returns and Surplus. ^ Click on Audio Core Return. ^ Select the appropriate VIN to view the Update Core Return information screen. ^ Review the form, then print out a copy by clicking on the printer icon. 14. Place the printed copies of the Warranty Audio/Navigation/RES Unit Order form and the Core Return Update Acknowledgement into the core return box with the failed audio/navigation/RES unit core. NOTE: If you return a failed audio/navigation/RES core without the proper forms, your warranty claim will be debited and the core will be sent back to your dealership. 15. Ship the failed audio/navigation/RES unit core to the appropriate location by using the prepaid shipping label that came with the remanufactured audio/navigation/RES unit. NOTE: If the failed audio/navigation/RES unit core is not received at the specified address within 30 days from the order date of the remanufactured audio/navigation/RES unit, your warranty claim will be debited, and your dealership will be issued a core loss charge ranging between $800 and $2,500. If you know that you cannot return the core within 30 days, call the Remanufactured Parts Dealer Service Group, and ask for an extension. ^ If you call for an extension and the core is not received within 60 days from the order date, you will be debited the full amount of the warranty claim. ^ If you do not call for an extension, and the core is received between 31 and 60 days from the order date of the remanufactured audio/navigation/RES unit, a $250 late core charge will be assessed. WARRANTY AUDIO ORDER PROGRAM FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS Here is a list of answers to the most frequently asked questions about the warranty audio order program: Question: When do I use the warranty audio order program? Answer: Use the program when you are replacing an audio/navigation/RES unit under warranty (including goodwill) that has an internal failure. NOTE: The customer's media (CD, CD magazine, DVD, DVD-A, cassette tape, etc.) is removed by the supplier at tear down and inspection of the failed unit, and mailed to your dealership. Any failed audio/navigation/RES unit core that is returned disassembled is considered an unusable core, and your dealership will be issued a core loss charge ranging between $800 and $2,500. Remanufactured audio/navigation/RES units are not available for non-warranty repairs. New components should be used to repair new, unsold vehicles. A new component may be used to repair a customer's vehicle only if the remanufactured component is currently unavailable from American Honda. Your DPSM must authorize ordering a new component. Question: How do I order a remanufactured audio/navigation/RES unit? Answer: For a warranty replacement, use the ordering information IN WARRANTY EXCHANGE. For goodwill repair, contact your DPSM. For a non-warranty repair, see OUT-OF-WARRANTY REPAIR. Question: Who do I call for questions on the Warranty Audio Order Program? Answer: For administrative questions, call the Remanufactured Parts Dealer Service Group. Page 1063 EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 5382 Fluid - CVT: Fluid Type Specifications A/T Fluid Type ..................................................................................................................................................... ............................ Honda ATF-Z1 or new CVT fluid. Honda Service News Notice: If you're replacing transmission fluid in a CVT-equipped vehicle, or just topping it off, make sure you're using the new CVT fluid (P/N 08200-9006). From here on, DON'T put ATF-Z1 in a CVT. If you're topping off a CVT that's already got ATF-Z1, there's no need for concern; this fluid is compatible with ATF-Z1. All CVT-equipped Hondas starting with the 2006 models and onward will be factory-filled with the new CVT fluid. Page 6153 Auto-Stop System Under certain conditions, the ECM automatically stops the engine to conserve fuel and minimize tailpipe emissions when the car comes to a stop. The Auto-Stop indicator will come on, either as a steady light or as a blinking light, to warn the driver that the Auto-Stop system is on. The engine will not stop and enter Auto-Stop mode under the following conditions: - When the transmission is in 1st gear or reverse gear. - When the AUTO or DEF button of the climate control unit is pushed, or when the passenger compartment temperature has not stabilized at the set temperature. - When the engine coolant temperature is approximately 122 °F (50 °C) or below. - For approximately 2 minutes after starting the engine. - When the battery state of charge is low. - When the electric load on the 12 V system is high. - When the accelerator pedal is pressed. - When an Auto-Stop related component is faulty. When the engine is stopped by the Auto-Stop function, it will restart under the following conditions: - When the transmission is moved into any position other than neutral with the clutch pedal pressed - When the accelerator pedal is pressed while the transmission in neutral and the clutch pedal is pressed. Idle Vibration Reduction The IMA system is equipped with an Idle Vibration Reduction control function that minimizes fluctuations in the engine's crankshaft. The motor applies opposite phase torque to the engine when the crankshaft is rotating. Page 18 Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow from power at the top of the diagram to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another for example is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors Diagram Information and Instructions Variable Valve Timing Actuator: Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System Terminal Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown below is #6. Page 1525 139. Wiper/Washer Switch Diagram Information and Instructions Door Switch: Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System Terminal Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown below is #6. Locations Wheel Speed Sensor: Locations Service and Repair Air Cleaner Element Replacement Page 6443 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 4072 11. Middle of Engine Diagrams Page 6339 203. C108 (Junction Connector) (CVT) Page 3720 PGM-FI System - Component Location Index Page 9781 Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution diagram set to get a more detailed picture of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Page 6669 Wires Page 6684 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. Locations 42. Under Left Side of Dash Page 1990 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Emissions - OBD II DTC's And Associated Monitors Engine Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins Emissions - OBD II DTC's And Associated Monitors 03-020 April 2, 2010 Applies To: All OBD II-equipped models except Passport OBD II DTCs and Their Associated Monitors (Supersedes 03-020, dated March 29, 2003, to revise the information marked by the black bars and asterisks) *REVISION SUMMARY Numerous DTCs were added. Refer to the list for details.* Following is a list of all OBD II DTCs and their associated monitors for all Honda automobiles with OBD II. No one model has every DTC in the list. DTC P0AA6 thru P0A9E Locations Page 198 - Taillight relay Page 1108 In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locater) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: - Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. Page 9361 Backup Lamp Switch: Description and Operation Reverse Position Switch (M/T model) The reverse position switch signals the ECM when the transmission is shifted into reverse. A/T - ATF Cooler Cleaner Information Transmission Cooler: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - ATF Cooler Cleaner Information Use Worm-Style Clamps With the ATF Cooler Cleaner The spring-style clamps used on the ATF cooler lines are made to hold the cooler lines to the ATF cooler under normal operating conditions. The ATF Cooler Cleaner (P/N GHTTTCF6H) uses high pressure (100 psi) to do its job. With the pump motor running, the spring-style clamps can walk off or disconnect, and you'll wind up with a real mess to clean up in your shop. In March of this year, we sent each Honda dealership a pair of high-quality worm-style clamps to replace the original spring-style clamps. These clamps were part of a cooler cleaner update kit, and securely hold the cooler line in place. They've got a blue cap for easy identification. Need some more? Just call G-TFC, Inc. Page 17 Cavity Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity / terminal shown is # 6. Circuit Schematics Page 4861 Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow from power at the top of the diagram to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another for example is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors Page 186 Daytime Running Lamp Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relay Test Normally-open type A: 1. Turn the battery module switch OFF, and measure the voltage. 2. Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is disconnected. A/C compressor clutch relay - Air fuel ratio sensor relay - Condenser fan relay - Daytime running lights relay (Canada) - Headlight relay 1 - Headlight relay 2 - High speed battery module fan control relay - High speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - High voltage conductor control relay - Horn relay - Ignition hold relay - Low speed battery module fan control relay - Low speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - Power window relay - Radiator fan relay - Rear window defogger relay - Reverse relay - Starter cut relay Page 1404 Knock Sensor: Service and Repair Replacement 1. Remove the throttle body. 2. Disconnect the knock sensor connector, then remove the knock sensor. 3. Install the knock sensor. 4. Install the throttle body. Page 4267 172. ECM Page 8283 Splices Components Ground - "G" Page 6786 Power Steering Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relay Test Normally-open type B: EPS Motor Relay 1. Turn the battery module switch OFF, and measure the voltage. 2. Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 3 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 2 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 3 terminals when power is disconnected. Page 9758 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 8554 Use of the Repair Material (Reference) Use of the Repair Material (reference) NOTE: Follow the materials manufacturer's instructions. The use of a special polyester putty for PP bumper is described here: 1. Filler Locations 94. Left Side of PCU (PCU Removed) Page 2891 11. Use the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) with version 1.011.014 or later software to clear any set DTCs. 12. Reinstall the IPU lid and the mid-frame cover bolts. Torque the bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb-ft). 13. Reinstall the right trunk shelf support. Torque the bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb-ft). 14. Remove the battery module switch locking cover, and flip the switch to ON. Reinstall the locking cover. 15. Reinstall the battery module switch cover. 16. Reinstall the cargo floor mat. 17. Return the vehicle to your customer. Advise your customer that it is OK to drive the vehicle as is until the replacement parts arrive, but the vehicle will have reduced power (no IMA assist). 18. Order a battery module and, if needed, a BCM, an MCM, or both. REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Remove the battery module from the vehicle (see page 12-113 of the service manual). (In ISIS, use the keyword BAT MOD, and select Battery Module Removal/Installation from the list.) 2. Remove the lifting tool from the battery module. 3. Remove the mounting bolts for the MCM and the BCM (eight total). Unplug the electrical connectors (five for the MCM and three for the BCM), then remove the modules. 4. Install the MCM and the BCM in the new battery module. Use the original MCM and BCM if no replacement was needed; otherwise, use the appropriate replacement parts. Torque the mounting bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb-ft). 5. Install the lifting tool on the battery module. 6. With someone to help you, carefully lift the battery module into the vehicle, and set it down into position. Remove the lifting tool. 7. Plug in the connectors, and install the Y condenser harness. Then install the mounting bolts. Torque the bolts to 24 N.m (17 lb-ft). 8. Install the battery module air duct. Torque the bolt to 9.8 N~m (7.2 lb-ft). 9. Connect the high voltage cables to the junction board. Torque the bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb-ft). 10. Install the front and rear IPU braces and the mid-frame. Torque the bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb-ft). 11. Install the foam inserts. Page 8690 - If necessary, replace the damper housing, damper base, and wheelhouse B as an assembly. - Drill holes completely through the part because the replacement wheelhouse B and damper base will be attached by plug welding. Installation 1. Set the new damper housing, and front wheelhouse into position, and measure the front compartment diagonally. Check the body dimensions. 2. Tack weld the clamped position. 3. Check the front damper position. Temporarily install the hood, front fender, headlight, and front bumper, and check for differences in level and clearance. Make sure the body lines flow smoothly. 4. Perform the main welding Page 590 Fuel Supply System - Component Location Index Part 2 Page 9421 Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution diagram set to get a more detailed picture of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. A/C Compressor Belt Drive Belt: Adjustments A/C Compressor Belt Water Pump-A/C Compressor Belt Inspection and Adjustment // With A/C Special Tools Required - Belt tension gauge 07JGG-001010A Belt Tension Gauge Method Inspection 1. Remove the right rear splash shield. 2. Attach the belt tension gauge to the belt, and measure the tension. Follow the gauge manufacturer's instructions. If the belt is worn or damaged, replace it. If the belt needs adjustment, go to step 3. Adjustment 3. Loosen the idler pulley center nut (A). 4. Turn the adjusting bolt (B) to obtain the proper belt tension, then retighten the idler pulley center nut. 5. Recheck the belt tension. 6. If you installed a new belt, run the engine for five minutes, then readjust the belt to the used belt specification. Deflection Method Inspection Page 5965 6. If the clearance is incorrect, loosen the star locknut (A), and turn the adjuster (B) in or out to adjust. ^ Adjust the clearance while the specified vacuum is applied to the booster. ^ Hold the clevis (C) while adjusting. 7. Tighten the star locknut securely. 8. Remove the special tool (D). 9. Check the pushrod length (A) as shown if the booster is removed. If the length is incorrect, loosen the pushrod locknut (B), and turn the clevis (C) in or out to adjust. 10. Install the master cylinder. Locations Power Window Relay: Locations Power Window Component Locations Page 8870 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. Page 6883 Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Service Precautions Wiring Precautions Wiring Precautions SRS wiring can be identified by special yellow outer covering (except the SRS indicator light circuit). Never attempt to modify, splice, or repair SRS wiring. If there is an open or damage in SRS wiring, replace the harness. Be sure to install the harness wires so that they are not pinched, or interfere with other parts. Make sure all SRS ground locations are clean, and grounds are securely fastened for optimum metal-to-metal contact. Poor grounding can cause intermittent problems that are difficult to diagnose. Page 8301 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: Page 8208 Connectors - "C" Page 3690 In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locater) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: - Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. Page 8223 First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Specifications Child Seat Tether Attachment: Specifications Child Seat Anchor Tether Anchor (8 X 1.25 mm) ....................................................................................................................................................... 22 Nm (2.2 kg.m, 16 lb.ft) Page 4196 DTC U0100 thru U1288 Disclaimer Page 3939 Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow from power at the top of the diagram to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another for example is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors Page 6354 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Page 6342 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. Page 10293 Wiper Switch: Service and Repair Wiper/Washer Switch Test/Replacement 1. Remove the steering column covers. 2. Disconnect the 14P connector (B) from the wiper/washer switch (A). 3. Remove the two screws, then pull out the switch. 4. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table. If the continuity is not as specified, replace the switch. Page 7867 Immobilizer System Image 132 Page 6352 Multiple Junction Connector: Service and Repair How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough Locations Mirrors - Component Location Index Diagram Information and Instructions Door Switch: Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System Terminal Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown below is #6. Page 4733 2. Remove the sealing nut from the fuel rail. Attach the fuel pressure adapter nut, 12 mm (A) and the fuel pressure gauge (B). Remove the vacuum hose (C) from the fuel pulsation damper (D), and pinch off the hose with a clamp (E). 3. Start the engine and let it idle. - If the engine starts, go to step 5. - If the engine does not start, go to step 4. 4. See if the fuel pump is running: listen to the fuel fill port with the fuel fill cap removed. The fuel pump should run for 2 seconds when the ignition switch is first turned on. If the pump runs, go to step 5. - If the fuel pump does not run, perform the fuel pump circuit troubleshooting. 5. Read the pressure gauge. The pressure should be 270 - 320 kPa (2.8 - 3.3 kgf/sq.cm, 40 - 47 psi) - If the pressure is OK, the test is complete. - If the pressure is out of specification, replace the fuel pressure regulator and the fuel filter, and recheck the fuel pressure. 6. Remove the pressure gauge, and reinstall the sealing nut with a new washer. Tighten the sealing nut to 22 N.m (2.2 kgf.m, 16 lbf.ft). NOTE: Disassemble and clean the fuel pressure gauge attachment thoroughly after use. Page 4577 Catalytic Converter: Description and Operation Catalytic Converter System NOX Adsorptive Three Way Catalyst (NOX Adsorptive TWC) The NOx adsorptive TWC absorbs NOx created during lean burn running when the oxygen concentration is high. Then the engine is put into a richer running mode where the oxygen concentration and NOx levels are low, and the absorbed NOx is released, keeping the average NOx emissions low. Three-Way Catalytic Converter (TWC) The TWC converts hydrocarbons (HC), carbon monoxide (CO), and oxides of nitrogen (NOx) in the exhaust gas to carbon dioxide (CO2), dinitrogen (N2), and water vapor. Hybrid System - IMA Indicator ON/DTC's P1447/P1449 Battery Condition Monitor: Customer Interest Hybrid System - IMA Indicator ON/DTC's P1447/P1449 04-028 March 16, 2011 Applies To: 2000-04 Insight - ALL IMA System Indicator On With IMA DTC 77 (P1447) or DTC 78 (P1449) (Supersedes 04-028, dated April 30, 2010, to revise the information marked by the black bars and asterisks) *REVISION SUMMARY Under WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION, some operation number and flat rate time information was changed.* PROBLEM The IMA system indicator comes on and IMA DTC 77 (P1447) (battery module deterioration) or DTC 78 (P1449) (battery module deterioration) is set. CORRECTIVE ACTION Replace the battery module. Inspect the motor control module (MCM) and the battery condition monitor (BCM) to determine if they also need to be replaced. PARTS INFORMATION WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION The normal warranty applies. NOTE: IMA components (battery module, battery condition monitor, and motor control module) are covered under warranty for 8 years or 80,000 miles, whichever comes first. Page 4156 ^ If you still cannot hear the solenoid valve click or feel it tap when activated, continue with normal troubleshooting. 15. Insight only: Disconnect the PGM Tester, and return the vehicle to your customer. 16. All other affected models: Use the PGM Tester to run the EVAP system function test (see S/B 02-007, EVAP System Function Testing and Diagnostics With the PGM Tester). ^ If the EVAP system passes the function test, disconnect the PGM Tester, and return the vehicle to your customer. ^ If the EVAP system fails the function test, continue with normal troubleshooting. Disclaimer Locations Power Window Switch: Locations Power Windows - Component Location Index Fuel Pump/Fuel Gauge Sending Unit Replacement Fuel Gauge Sender: Service and Repair Fuel Pump/Fuel Gauge Sending Unit Replacement Fuel Pump/Fuel Gauge Sending Unit Replacement Special Tools Required Adjustable ring wrench 07XAA-001010A M/T model: 1. Remove the fuel tank. 2. Disconnect the quick-connect fittings from the fuel pump. 3. Using the tool, loosen the fuel tank unit locknut (A). 4. Remove the bracket (A), the fuel filter (B), the fuel tank unit (C), the case (D), and the wire harness (E). 5. When connecting the fuel pump, make sure the connection is secure and the suction filter (F) is firmly connected to the fuel pump (G). 6. Install the part in the reverse order of removal with a new base gasket, then check these items: - When connecting the wire harness, make sure the connection is secure and the connector (H) is firmly locked into the place. - Do not push the lower part of the suction filter. - When installing the fuel gauge sending unit, make sure the connection is secure and the connector is firmly locked into place. Be careful not to bend or twist it excessively. - When installing the fuel pump assembly, align the marks (J) on the fuel tank (K) and the fuel pump assembly (L). CVT model: 1. Remove the fuel tank. 2. Disconnect the quick-connect fittings from the fuel pump. Page 10090 145. Combination Light Switch Page 2205 Engine Oil: Fluid Type Specifications New standard for engine oil, GF-4. See TSB SN050109 for Honda Service News 050109 for additional information. Engine Oil API Classification ................................................................................................................................. ..................................... SJ "Energy Conserving" oil. SAE Viscosity ................................................... .......................................................................................................................................................... 0W-20 Locations Oil Pressure Sender: Locations Gauges - Component Location Index Service and Repair Cabin Ventilation Duct: Service and Repair Rear Air Outlet Replacement 1. Remove the rear bumper. 2. Detach the hooks, then remove the rear air outlet (A). Take care not to scratch the body. 3. Install the rear air outlet by pushing the hook portions into place securely. Page 8656 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 2830 MDM (Motor Driver Module) The MDM consists of the MPI module, voltage converter module, capacitor, and the U/V/W phase motor current sensors. The voltage converter acts as a preamplifier for the IGBTs. The IGBTs are used to transfer electrical energy to the motor from the 144 V battery and vice versa. The IGBTs are activated by the MCM based on the amount of assist/regeneration is needed. The voltage converter module monitors voltage and temperature of the MDM, and sends this information to the MCM. Page 1043 Splices Components Ground - "G" Page 283 Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box A/T - Avoiding Fluid Contamination Fluid - A/T: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Avoiding Fluid Contamination SOURCE: Honda Service News TITLE: Avoiding Comebacks From A/T Contamination APPLIES TO: All models SERVICE TIP: Installing a reman A/T? Here are some important tips to keep in mind to ensure a first-time fix and to avoid any come-backs: - If the vehicle has an ATF cooler, make sure you clean the cooler with the ATF Cooler Cleaner (P/N GHTTTCF6H). See S/B 89-022, ATF Cooler Cleaner, for details. - If the reman A/T kit includes an in-line filter, don't forget to install it. If the vehicle already has an in-line filter from an earlier A/T replacement, then remove the existing filter, and install the new one. - Spray the driveshaft splines with solvent and compressed air before installing them in the reman A/T. If the failed A/T had a speed sensor, make sure it's clean before you install it. Debris from the failed A/T can catch in the driveshaft splines or on the speed sensor and contaminate the reman A/T. - If the reman A/T comes with a heater/cooler, make sure you install the reman A/T with that heater/cooler. Never install the heater/cooler from the failed A/T; you could contaminate the reman A/T. Locations Page 4030 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. Page 2601 ^ Remove the module(s). ^ Install the new module(s) in the reverse order of removal, and torque the mounting bolts to 9.8 Nm (7.2 lb-ft). 12. Reinstall the foam insert. 13. Reinstall the IPU lid. Torque the bolts to 9.8 Nm (7.2 lb-ft). 14. Reinstall the trunk right side shelf support. Torque the bolts to 9.8 Nm (7.2 lb-ft). 15. Remove the battery module switch locking cover, flip the switch to ON, then reinstall the locking cover. 16. Reinstall the battery module switch cover. 17. Reinstall the rear clips on the middle bulkhead carpet. 18. Reinstall the cargo floor mat. 19. Check for and clear any DTCs with the HDS. 20. Remove the No. 15 (40A) fuse (EPS control unit) from the under-hood fuse/relay box. 21. With the transmission in neutral (M/T) or Park (CVT), and the clutch released (M/T), start the engine. Hold the engine speed at 3,500 rpm until the IMA battery level indicator shows at least 50 percent charge. 22. Turn off the engine, and reinstall the No. 15 fuse. 23. Center-punch a completion mark above the 14th character of the engine compartment VIN. Disclaimer Page 8981 EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 10021 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 8454 Programming the Transmitter NOTES: ^ The system accepts up to four transmitters. ^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all the transmitters once you're in the programming mode. 1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 2. Press and hold the Valet-Disarm button on the radio (between the AM/FM and CD/TAPE buttons) to enter the programming mode. (Continue to hold the button during this procedure, or programming will be cancelled.) Check that the power door locks cycle to confirm that you're in the programming mode. 3. Within 5 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the transmitter. Check that the power door locks cycle to confirm that the code was accepted. 4. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each of the remaining transmitters. 5. After all the transmitters have been programmed, release the Valet-Disarm button to exit programming mode. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda using normal parts ordering procedures. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery. 99-04 Civic, 03-04 Accord, Element, Pilot 1999-00 Civic Value Package with factory-installed keyless entry system 1999-04 Civic EX with factory-installed keyless entry system or dealer-installed security system *1999-03 Civic (except EX) with dealer-installed keyless entry system or security system 2002-04 Civic Si with factory-installed keyless entry system or dealer-installed security system 2003-04 Civic Hybrid with factory-installed keyless entry system or dealer-installed security system 2004 Civic (except LX & EX) with dealer-installed keyless entry system or security system 2004 Civic LX with factory-installed keyless entry system or dealer-installed security system Page 8374 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. Page 3945 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. Page 2346 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. Page 432 9. Connect the PGM Tester to the data link connector (DLC). 10. Use the PGM Tester to program the customer's immobilizer key codes into the ECM. Verity that all the keys will start the engine. 11. Center-punch a completion mark above the first character (J) of the engine compartment VIN. Disclaimer Page 376 DTC P0401 thru P0562 Page 4764 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. Page 4555 Page 4684 Terminals - "T" Shielding Switches Fuses Locations 135. Under Right Side of Kick Panel (CVT) Page 9221 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 9914 Backup Lamp Switch: Description and Operation Reverse Position Switch (M/T model) The reverse position switch signals the ECM when the transmission is shifted into reverse. Page 8201 Power Door Locks - Component Location Index Page 8066 Connectors - "C" Page 8850 Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Service and Repair Connector Disconnection / Connection Disconnecting System Connectors Before removing the airbag or SRS related devices (the SRS unit, the cable reel and the seat belt tensioner connector), disconnecting connectors from SRS related devices, or removing the dashboard or the steering column, disconnect the airbag connectors and seat belt tensioner connectors to prevent accidental deployment. Turn the ignition switch OFF, disconnect the negative cable from the battery, and wait at least 3 minutes before beginning the following procedures. - Before disconnecting the SRS unit connector A (18P) (A) from the SRS unit, disconnect both airbag 2P connectors (C, D) and both seat belt tensioner 2P connectors (E, F). - Before disconnecting the cable reel 2P connector (B), disconnect the driver's airbag 2P connector (C). 1. Disconnect the battery negative cable, and wait at least three minutes. Driver's Airbag 2. Remove the access panel from the steering wheel, then disconnect the driver's airbag 2P connector (A) from the cable reel. Passenger's Airbag Locations EVAP System - Component Location Index Page 8287 Cavity Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity / terminal shown is # 6. Circuit Schematics Page 1939 Wheel Bearing: Testing and Inspection Wheel Bearing End Play Inspection 1. Raise the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper location. Remove the wheels. On the rear, remove the fender skirts before removing the wheels. 2. Install suitable flat washers (A) and wheel nuts, and tighten the nuts to the specified torque to hold the brake disc or drum securely against the hub. Front Rear 3. Set up the dial gauge against the hub flange as shown, and measure the bearing end play while moving the brake disc or drum inward and outward. Bearing end play: Standard: Front/Rear: 0 - 0.05 mm (0 - 0.002 inch) 4. If the bearing end play is more than the standard, replace the wheel bearing. Page 86 102. Hatch Opener Relay Page 4962 First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 8305 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. Page 3936 Diodes How to Identify Wiring Color-Coded Insulation Wire Color Page 3032 169. BCM Module Exploded Views 179. Disarm Switch (Honda Accessory) Page 4462 Vehicle Speed Sensor: Description and Operation Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) The VSS is driven by the differential. It generates a pulsed signal from an input of 5 volts. The number of pulses per minute increases/decreases with the speed of the vehicle. Page 9724 License Plate Lamp: Service and Repair License Plate Light Replacement Remove the two screws, and remove the license plate light (A). Turn the bulb socket (B) 45 ° counterclockwise, remove it from the light, then replace the bulb (C). Page 3901 ECM/PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector A (32P) Part 2 Campaign - Premature IMA Battery Module Failures Technical Service Bulletin # 06-026 Date: 080205 Campaign - Premature IMA Battery Module Failures 06-026 February 5, 2008 Applies To: 2000-04 Insight - See VEHICLES AFFECTED Product Update: Premature IMA Battery Module Failure (Supersedes 06-026, dated May 13, 2006) Updated information is shown with black bars in the images and asterisks in the text. BACKGROUND *NOTE: Because of a class action settlement, the warranty coverage for the IMA battery on 2002-04 Insights purchased or leased between April 13, 2002, and November 7, 2006, is now 10 years or 157,500 miles, whichever occurs first. For more information, refer to Service Bulletin 06-085, Warranty Extension: Vehicle Warranty Mileage.* American Honda is announcing a product update to replace certain IMA components to help prevent IMA battery deterioration. This product update applies only in states where there is an abnormally high replacement rate for IMA batteries. The IMA battery control module(s) allows the battery to overcharge. Occasional overcharging is a desirable function, but too many frequently repeated cycles of overcharge can damage the IMA battery. This damage is the result of excessive current and heat build up. Unique local topographical and ambient conditions in affected states, combined with a driving cycle that typically keeps the IMA battery fully charged, create this potential problem. VEHICLES AFFECTED This product update affects all 2000-04 Insights registered in the states of Arizona, California, Colorado, Florida, Hawaii, Nevada, and Texas, the shaded states on this map) as shown. To verify vehicle eligibility, check for at least one of these items: ^ The customer has a notification letter. ^ The vehicle is shown as eligible on a VIN status inquiry. In addition to these verification items, check for a punch mark above the 14th character of the engine compartment VIN. A punch mark in that location means the product update has already been completed. CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION Owners of affected vehicles within the seven states have received a notification of this product update. An example of the notification is shown in this service bulletin. Page 439 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. Page 1040 Wire Color Abbreviations Page 1572 Failed Part: P/N 53560-SDA-AO1 H/C 7139652 Defect Code: 07406 Symptom Code: 03602 Skill Level: Repair Technician Diagnostic Trouble Code: To create the 15-digit DTC, see the applicable repair procedure. Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. TOOL DESCRIPTIONS The holding force gauge measures the amount of pull on the vehicle. It is a bracket that counts as one weight, plus five removable weights. During the test-drive, attach the bracket and the weights to the steering wheel on the side opposite the pulling direction. For example, if the vehicle pulls to the right, attach the bracket and weights to the left side of the steering wheel. Start with the maximum amount of weight on the steering wheel, and remove the weights until the vehicle drives in a straight line. When recording the pull on the worksheet, write down the direction of the pull (lefi or right) and the number of weights required to balance the pull (one through six). For example, if you have the bracket and two weights on the steering wheel, then record this as three weights. NOTE: The bracket counts as one weight. Page 2422 Coolant: Service Precautions Always use Genuine Honda Antifreeze/Coolant. Using a non-Honda coolant can result in corrosion, causing the cooling system to malfunction or fail. For best corrosion protection, the coolant concentration must be maintained year-round at 50% minimum. Coolant concentrations less than 50% may not provide sufficient protection against corrosion or freezing. Coolant concentrations greater than 60% will impair cooling efficiency and are not recommended. Do not use additional rust inhibitors or anti-rust products; they may not be compatible with the coolant. Mixing green and red colored coolants is not recommended. Page 1589 6. Test-drive the vehicle to make sure it no longer pulls. If the steering wheel is now off-center by more than 2 mm, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE C. 7. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC. NOTE: Enter each reading in decimal degrees. Example 30' = 0.50. REPAIR PROCEDURE C 1. Make sure the steering wheel is centered. ^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the right until it stops. ^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left, and count the number of revolutions until it stops. ^ Divide the number of revolutions in half, and turn the steering wheel until it is centered. For example, if it takes four revolutions of the steering wheel to go from lock to lock, then two turns is centered. ^ If the steering wheel is off-center by a large amount (20 mm or more), it may not be centered on the steering column shaft. Reinstall the steering wheel before going to step 2. 2. Place the vehicle on a lift, turn the steering wheel until it is centered, and then raise the vehicle. 3. Adjust the tie-rods. Use your measurements from question 13 of the test-drive to make your adjustment. Page 488 Fuel Supply System - Component Location Index Part 2 Page 2620 Disclaimer Page 9053 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. Page 6817 6. Remove the brake disc retaining flat screws (A). 7. Screw two 8 x 1.25 mm bolts (B) into the disc to push it away from the hub. Turn each bolt two turns at a time to prevent cocking the disc excessively. 8. Remove the flange bolts (A) and wheel sensor (B) from the knuckle. Do not disconnect the wheel sensor connector. 9. Turn the front of the knuckle outward. Tap the driveshaft (A) inward with a plastic hammer to allow space to install the special tool on the lower arm ball joint. Page 4875 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Page 6764 TOOL INFORMATION Centering Tape (enough to diagnose 240 vehicles): T/N O7AAJ-001A300 Steering Drift Set Level: T/N 07AAJ-00100 Steering Drift Set: T/N O7MJ-001A140 Replacement Weight for Steering Drift Set: T/N 07AAJ-001A400 WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Failed Part: P/N 53560-SDA-AO1 H/C 7139652 Defect Code: 07406 Symptom Code: 03602 Skill Level: Repair Technician Diagnostic Trouble Code: To create the 15-digit DTC, see the applicable repair procedure. Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. TOOL DESCRIPTIONS The holding force gauge measures the amount of pull on the vehicle. It is a bracket that counts as one weight, plus five removable weights. Page 3042 DISCLAIMER Page 8655 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. Page 6768 NOTE: Do this repair procedure if, after doing step 10 of the test-drive, the vehicle pulled in the opposite direction after you swapped the front tires. 1. Swap wheels 2 and 4 on the passenger's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again. ^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 2, then go to step 3. ^ If the pull does not go away, put wheels 2 and 4 back to their original positions, and go to step 2. 2. Swap wheels 1 and 3 on the driver's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again. ^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 1, then go to step 3. ^ If the pull does not go away, use a known-good tire in position 1 and continue diagnosis. 3. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC. REPAIR PROCEDURE B Rack Guide Removal & Installation Steering Gear: Service and Repair Rack Guide Removal & Installation Removal/Installation NOTE: During removal/installation, do not allow dust, dirt, or other foreign materials to enter the gearbox. 1. Loosen the locknut (A), then remove the rack guide screw (B), disc washer (C), spring (D), and rack guide (E). 2. Grease the sliding surface of the rack guide, and install it onto the gearbox housing. 3. Install the spring. 4. Install the disc washer with its convex side facing in. 5. Remove the old sealant from rack guide screw, and apply new sealant all around the threads. Loosely install the rack guide screw on the steering gearbox. 6. Loosely install the locknut. 7. Adjust the rack guide screw. After adjusting, check that the rack moves smoothly by sliding the rack right and left. Page 8979 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: Paint - Industrial Fallout Paint Damage Paint: Technical Service Bulletins Paint - Industrial Fallout Paint Damage 99-062 January 15, 2007 Applies To: ALL Paint Damage From Environmental Fallout (Supersedes 99-062, dated October 12, 1999 to update the information marked by the black bars and asterisks) SYMPTOM The exterior paint surface does not feel smooth after the vehicle is washed. PROBABLE CAUSE Environmental fallout (airborne metallic particles, tree sap, paint overspray, road tar, insect residue, etc.) has adhered to the exterior paint surface. NOTE: This form of paint damage should not be confused with acid rain damage. Unlike environmental fallout damage, acid rain damage appears on the paint surface as pits or water spots-possibly black or brown in the center-which may feel smooth to the touch. PREVENTION The shipping wax/wrap guard applied to the vehicle at the factory provides the best protection for the paint finish from environmental fallout and acid rain damage. American Honda strongly recommends that you leave the shipping wax/wrap guard on the vehicle for as long as possible. Your dealership is responsible for maintaining the vehicle's finish after the shipping wax/ wrap guard is removed. CORRECTIVE ACTION Select a product line from one of the manufacturers listed in REQUIRED MATERIALS to clean the paint surface and to wax it after cleaning. Make sure you follow the manufacturer's instructions for each of the products you use. REQUIRED MATERIALS Each of the clays listed should do at least three vehicles. WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION Recall - Emissions/ECM Replacement Technical Service Bulletin # 02-081 Date: 021217 Recall - Emissions/ECM Replacement 02-081 December 17, 2002 Applies To: 2000 Insight - ALL 2001 Insight with M/T - ALL Emissions Recall: Insight ECM BACKGROUND The ECM does not correctly identify all malfunctions of the air/fuel ratio sensor (sensor 1). Because of this, the vehicle does not meet state and federal emissions regulations. CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION All owners of affected vehicles will be mailed a notification of this campaign. The customer notification letter is shown in this service bulletin. CORRECTIVE ACTION Replace the ECM. After you replace the ECM, reinitialize the immobilizer system, and do the idle learn procedure. PARTS INFORMATION WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION Operation Number: 122124 Flat Rate Time: 1.0 hour Failed Part: P/N 37820-PHM-A01 H/C 6344626 Defect Code: 5BL Contention Code: L78 Skill Level: Repair Technician REPAIR PROCEDURE NOTE: Make sure you have all of your customer's keys. 1. Carefully remove the passenger's door sill trim. If you break any of the trim clips, replace them (P/N 91560-S06-003, H/C 6353502). Page 8284 Terminals - "T" Shielding Switches Fuses Page 9736 Wire Color Coding Distinct Of Circuit By Wire Base Color All wires have color-coded insulation. Wires belonging to a system's main harness will have a single color. Wires belonging to a system's sub-circuits will have a colored stripe. Striped wires use the codes found in the chart to show wire size and colors. Abbreviations are used to indicate wire color within a circuit diagram. Wire Color Abbreviations The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics: WHT................................... White YEL................................... Yellow BLK................................... Black BLU................................... Blue GRN................................... Green RED................................... Red ORN................................... Orange PNK................................... Pink BRN................................... Brown GRY................................... Gray PUR................................... Purple LT BLU................................... Light Blue LT GRN................................... Light Green The wire insulation has one color or one color with another color stripe. The second color is the stripe. How to Identify Connector Terminals How to Identify Connector Terminals Page 3309 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Page 4793 111. Rear Window Defogger, Fuel Cut, Radiator Fan Main (Climate Control) And Intermittent Wiper Relays Page 9036 Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow from power at the top of the diagram to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another for example is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors Page 8766 Wires Component Locations Relay Box: Component Locations 28. Left Front Side of Engine Compartment 33. Underside of Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box Page 4308 Diodes How to Identify Wiring Color-Coded Insulation Wire Color Page 1507 Power Window Switch: Testing and Inspection Master Switch Input Test Power Windows Master Switch Input Test NOTE: The power window control unit is built into the power window master switch, and it only controls the driver's window operations. 1. Remove the instrument panel. 2. Disconnect the 14P connector (A) from the master switch (B). 3. Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are all making good contact. - If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system. - If the terminals look OK, go to step 4. Page 7517 Diodes How to Identify Wiring Color-Coded Insulation Wire Color Air Fuel (A/F) Ratio Sensor Oxygen Sensor: Description and Operation Air Fuel (A/F) Ratio Sensor Air Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor The A/F Sensor operates over a wide air/fuel range. The A/F Sensor is installed in the exhaust manifold. Page 4694 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. Page 8269 Trunk / Liftgate Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relay Test Normally-open type B: Hatch Opener Relay 1. Turn the battery module switch OFF, and measure the voltage. 2. Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 3 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 2 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 3 terminals when power is disconnected. Page 7638 Air Bag: Service and Repair Airbag Handling and Storage Airbag Handling and Storage Do not disassemble an airbag. It has no serviceable parts. Once an airbag has been deployed, it cannot be repaired or reused. For temporary storage of the airbag during service, please observe the following precautions. - Store the removed airbag with the pad surface up. Never put any things on the removed airbag. - To prevent damage to the airbag, keep it free from any oil, grease, detergent, or water. - Store the removed airbag on a secure, flat surface away from any high heat source (exceeding 200 °F/93 °C). - Never perform electrical inspections to the airbags, such as measuring resistance. Diagram Information and Instructions Seat Belt Reminder Lamp: Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System Terminal Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown below is #6. Page 4837 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: Page 3688 Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution diagram set to get a more detailed picture of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Page 3896 ECM Inputs And Outputs At Connector C (31P) Part 2 Page 615 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 6067 7. Remove the under-cover (two bolts, two clips, and three screw clips). 8. Remove the IPU (intelligent power unit) lid (six Torx bolts and 17 hex bolts). 9. Measure voltage at the junction board terminals. ^ If the reading is 30 V or less, the capacitors are discharged enough for you to continue; go to step 10. ^ If the reading is more than 30 V, there is a problem with the IMA system. Troubleshoot the system using the IMA section of the service manual, then continue with this procedure. 10. Lift out the battery module foam insert. Page 9545 Wire Color Abbreviations Page 10061 Trunk Lamp: Diagnostic Aids Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Page 9751 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: Page 7288 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 1479 Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Testing and Inspection Mode Switch Test 1. Remove the screws securing the mode switch, then remove the switch. 2. Disconnect the connector from the switch. 3. Check the S mode switch for continuity between connector terminals No. 3 and No. 5. There should be continuity while pressing the S mode switch, and no continuity when the switch released. 4. Check the D mode switch for continuity between connector terminals No. 1 and No. 5. There should be continuity while pressing the D mode switch, and no continuity when the switch is released. 5. If either switch is faulty, replace it. 6. If the switch is OK, but switch failure occurred, check and repair the wire harness on the mode switch circuit. Page 1181 In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locater) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: - Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. Page 7656 5. After installing the SRS unit, confirm proper system operation: Turn the ignition switch ON (II); the SRS indicator should come on for about 6 seconds and then go off. Page 2577 Catalytic Converter: Technical Service Bulletins Catalytic Converter - Rotten Egg Smell SOURCE: Honda Service News July 2003 TITLE: Rotten Egg Smell? Could Be the Catalytic Converter APPLIES TO: All Models SERVICE TIP: Are customers complaining of a rotten egg smell, but you can't find anything wrong with their vehicles to account for it [there's no DTC(s) set, no driveability problems reported, nothing damaged or broken]? Then it could well be coming from the catalytic converter. That smell is a release of built up hydrogen sulfide (H2S) from the reaction of organic sulfur compounds in the gasoline with the catalyst in the converter. Almost all gasoline contains some amount of organic sulfur compounds, and that amount varies by region. The more sulfur there is in the gasoline, the more H2S is built up and released by the catalytic converter, so the stronger the smell. In California, where low-sulfur gasoline is actually required by state law, sulfur smell complaints are few and far between. The folks at the Environmental Protection Agency have issued a requirement for the phasing-in of low-sulfur gasoline nationwide between 2004 and 2006. This low-sulfur gasoline should go a long way toward making complaints of rotten egg smell a thing of the past. Page 3184 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Page 7836 Wires Page 9381 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: - Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest OHMS" range. Page 8105 43. Under Left Side of Dash (Honda Accessory) Emissions - OBD II DTC's And Associated Monitors Engine Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins Emissions - OBD II DTC's And Associated Monitors 03-020 April 2, 2010 Applies To: All OBD II-equipped models except Passport OBD II DTCs and Their Associated Monitors (Supersedes 03-020, dated March 29, 2003, to revise the information marked by the black bars and asterisks) *REVISION SUMMARY Numerous DTCs were added. Refer to the list for details.* Following is a list of all OBD II DTCs and their associated monitors for all Honda automobiles with OBD II. No one model has every DTC in the list. DTC P0AA6 thru P0A9E Page 7839 Terminals - "T" Shielding Switches Fuses Page 10170 29. Left Front Side of Engine Compartment Campaign - Integrated Motor Assist Controller Update Technical Service Bulletin # 01-102 Date: 011127 Campaign - Integrated Motor Assist Controller Update 01-102 November 27, 2001 Applies To: 2000-01 Insight with M/T - See VEHICLES AFFECTED Product Update: IMA Controller Modification BACKGROUND The IMA (Integrated Motor Assist) system supplies power to various 12-volt loads on the vehicle (lights, radio, windows, etc.) and assists the engine to improve vehicle performance. In very cold weather, power demands on the IMA battery module can exceed output, causing permanent damage to the battery module. VEHICLES AFFECTED Not all 2000-01 Insights with M/T are affected by this product update. Only vehicles that are registered and normally driven in cold weather areas are affected. Before you begin, verify that the vehicle is registered in one of the states affected by the update (see the map). Then check for vehicle eligibility by doing one of the following. ^ Verify that the customer has a notification letter. ^ Check the vehicle's VIN on your campaign responsibility report. ^ Do a VIN status inquiry on DCS. CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION All owners of affected vehicles will be sent a notification of this product update. An example of the customer notification. CORRECTIVE ACTION Replace the battery condition monitor (BCM) module and the motor control module (MCM). PARTS INFORMATION Page 7254 Compressor Clutch Relay: Description and Operation Air Conditioning (A/C) Compressor Clutch Relay When the ECM receives a demand for cooling from the A/C system, it delays the compressor from being energized, and enriches the mixture to assure smooth transition to the A/C mode. Page 9380 In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locater) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: - Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. Page 1062 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Page 9028 Wire Color Abbreviations Page 1767 Refrigerant Oil: Service and Repair A/C Refrigerant Oil Replacement Recommended PAG oil: SANDEN SP-10: - P/N 38897-P13-A01AH: 120 ml (4 fl.oz) - P/N 38899-P13-A01: 40 ml (1 1/3 fl.oz) Page 2454 8. Remove the jumper, and measure the voltage between the No. 2 terminal on the radiator fan switch connector and body ground. Is there battery voltage? YES - Check for an open in the BLK wire between the radiator fan switch connector and body ground. If the wire is OK, check for a poor ground at G101. NO - Repair open in the GRN wire and BLU/RED wire between the radiator fan switch connector and under-hood fuse/relay box. Radiator Fan Relay Circuit Troubleshooting Troubleshooting (without A/C) 1. Check the No. 11 (30 A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box and the No. 16 (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box. Are the fuses OK? YES- Go to step 2. NO- Replace the fuse(s) and rechecks 2. Remove the radiator fan relay from the under-hood fuse/relay box, and test it. Is the relay OK? YES- Go to step 3. NO- Replace the radiator fan relay. 3. Measure the voltage between radiator fan relay 4P socket terminal No. 1 and body ground. Is there battery voltage? YES- Go to step 4. NO- Replace the under-hood fuse/relay box. 4. Connect a jumper wire between radiator fan relay 4P socket terminal No. 1 and No. 2. Does the radiator fan run? YES- Go to step 5. Capacity Specifications Fluid - CVT: Capacity Specifications CAPACITY (CVT Transmission) Change ................................................................................................................................................ ............................................................... 3.5 Qt (3.3L) Complete Refill ............................................... ................................................................................................................................................... 5.8 Qt (5.5L) Page 5796 Cavity Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity / terminal shown is # 6. Circuit Schematics Page 6569 175. Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box Locations Instrument Panel View Page 1571 Alignment: By Symptom Technical Service Bulletin # 06-068 Date: 090502 Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right 06-068 May 2, 2009 Applies To: ALL *Vehicle Pulls or Drifts, and/or Steering Wheel Is Off-Center (Supersedes 06-068, Vehicle Pulling or Drifting, dated October 4, 2007, to revise the information marked by asterisks) (Replaces 90-011, Steering Wheel Off-Center Adjustment at PDI)* *REVISION SUMMARY The title description was revised.* SYMPTOM While driving on a straight road, the vehicle pulls or drifts to the right or left. BACKGROUND New tools were developed to help you diagnose and correct a pulling and/or steering wheel off-center issue. There is a diagnosis worksheet included to take on your test-drive and record your findings. These values are used to build the 15-digit DTC (diagnostic trouble code) that is required for your warranty claim. The last step in each repair procedure helps you create the correct code. In the rare case that you have to repair a vehicle that pulls and has the steering wheel off-center, use REPAIR PROCEDURE B to file your warranty claim. For more information, refer to Training Module SSC 44 - Steering Drift or Pull Interactive Service Bulletin. PROBABLE CAUSES Several conditions can cause the vehicle to pull or drift: ^ Wheel alignment ^ Tires ^ Off-center steering wheel (no pulling or drifting, but a customer may believe this is the case) CORRECTIVE ACTION Diagnose the problem using the special tools and the worksheet on page 4 that guides you to one of four repair procedures. TOOL INFORMATION Centering Tape (enough to diagnose 240 vehicles): T/N O7AAJ-001A300 Steering Drift Set Level: T/N 07AAJ-00100 Steering Drift Set: T/N O7MJ-001A140 Replacement Weight for Steering Drift Set: T/N 07AAJ-001A400 WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Page 10134 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Blower (Heater) Motor Gets Hot and Blows A Fuse Blower Motor: Technical Service Bulletins Blower (Heater) Motor Gets Hot and Blows A Fuse SOURCE: Honda Service News November 2003 TITLE: Heater Blower Motor Gets Hot or Blows a Fuse APPLIES TO: 1990-04 Accords, 1992-04 Civics, 1997-04 CR-Vs, 2003 Elements, 2000-04 Insights, 1995-04 Odysseys, 1996-02 Passports, 2003-04 Pilots, 1997-01 Preludes, and 2000-04 S2000s SERVICE TIP: A blocked cooling hose for the heater blower motor can cause the motor to overheat, draw more current, blow a fuse, or even melt its plastic impeller. Before you order a replacement blower motor, make sure the cooling hose isn't blocked. On some models, you'll find the cooling hose molded into the blower motor housing; on other models, it's a separate piece. Check the S/M for the vehicle you're working on to determine the actual location of the cooling hose. Page 6976 pivot. 6. With a wrench, tighten the pressure bolt (B) until the ball joint pin pops loose from the steering arm or suspension arm. If necessary, apply penetrating type lubricant to loosen the ball joint pin. 7. Remove the tool, then remove the nut from the end of the ball joint pin, and pull the ball joint out of the steering arm or suspension arm. Inspect the ball joint boot, and replace it if damaged. Page 9534 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 1010 All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416 etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector or by a capital letter (A, B, C etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Connector Views that shows the connector terminals wire colors connector cavity numbers and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints shown on diagram [8] . Except for the DLC (data link connector) disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554 for example means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Page 6753 Alignment: By Symptom Technical Service Bulletin # 06-068 Date: 090502 Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right 06-068 May 2, 2009 Applies To: ALL *Vehicle Pulls or Drifts, and/or Steering Wheel Is Off-Center (Supersedes 06-068, Vehicle Pulling or Drifting, dated October 4, 2007, to revise the information marked by asterisks) (Replaces 90-011, Steering Wheel Off-Center Adjustment at PDI)* *REVISION SUMMARY The title description was revised.* SYMPTOM While driving on a straight road, the vehicle pulls or drifts to the right or left. BACKGROUND New tools were developed to help you diagnose and correct a pulling and/or steering wheel off-center issue. There is a diagnosis worksheet included to take on your test-drive and record your findings. These values are used to build the 15-digit DTC (diagnostic trouble code) that is required for your warranty claim. The last step in each repair procedure helps you create the correct code. In the rare case that you have to repair a vehicle that pulls and has the steering wheel off-center, use REPAIR PROCEDURE B to file your warranty claim. For more information, refer to Training Module SSC 44 - Steering Drift or Pull Interactive Service Bulletin. PROBABLE CAUSES Several conditions can cause the vehicle to pull or drift: ^ Wheel alignment ^ Tires ^ Off-center steering wheel (no pulling or drifting, but a customer may believe this is the case) CORRECTIVE ACTION Diagnose the problem using the special tools and the worksheet on page 4 that guides you to one of four repair procedures. TOOL INFORMATION Centering Tape (enough to diagnose 240 vehicles): T/N O7AAJ-001A300 Steering Drift Set Level: T/N 07AAJ-00100 Steering Drift Set: T/N O7MJ-001A140 Replacement Weight for Steering Drift Set: T/N 07AAJ-001A400 WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Hybrid System - IMA Indicator ON/DTC's P1447/P1449 Hybrid Power Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins Hybrid System - IMA Indicator ON/DTC's P1447/P1449 04-028 March 16, 2011 Applies To: 2000-04 Insight - ALL IMA System Indicator On With IMA DTC 77 (P1447) or DTC 78 (P1449) (Supersedes 04-028, dated April 30, 2010, to revise the information marked by the black bars and asterisks) *REVISION SUMMARY Under WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION, some operation number and flat rate time information was changed.* PROBLEM The IMA system indicator comes on and IMA DTC 77 (P1447) (battery module deterioration) or DTC 78 (P1449) (battery module deterioration) is set. CORRECTIVE ACTION Replace the battery module. Inspect the motor control module (MCM) and the battery condition monitor (BCM) to determine if they also need to be replaced. PARTS INFORMATION WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION The normal warranty applies. NOTE: IMA components (battery module, battery condition monitor, and motor control module) are covered under warranty for 8 years or 80,000 miles, whichever comes first. Page 6191 Disassembly/Reassembly Page 6437 In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locater) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: - Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. Page 8744 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: Page 6274 Page 4769 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Page 4706 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. Hybrid System - IMA Battery Module Warranty Extension Technical Service Bulletin # 06-057 Date: 110316 Hybrid System - IMA Battery Module Warranty Extension 06-057 March 16, 2011 Applies To: 2000-04 Insight - See VEHICLES AFFECTED Warranty Extension: Insight IMA Battery Module (Supersedes 06-057, dated October 18, 2007, to revise the information marked by the black bars and asterisks) *REVISION SUMMARY Under WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION, some operation number and flat rate time information was changed.* BACKGROUND NOTE: Because of a class action settlement, the warranty extension coverage for the IMA battery module on 2002-04 Insights purchased or leased between April 13, 2002, and November 7, 2006, is now 10 years or 157,500 miles, whichever occurs first. For more information, refer to Service Bulletin 06-085 Warranty Extension: Vehicle Warranty Mileage. To ensure continued reliability with the IMA system, American Honda is announcing an IMA battery module warranty extension for certain 2000-04 Insights. The IMA battery module is now covered for 10 years or 150,000 miles, whichever occurs first. This warranty extension applies to the 43 states not already covered by Service Bulletin 06-027, Warranty Extension: IMA Battery VEHICLES AFFECTED This warranty extension affects 2000-04 Insights registered in the shaded states on this map*: *2000-04 Insights registered in Arizona, California, Colorado, Florida, Hawaii, Nevada, and Texas are covered by Service Bulletin 06-027, Warranty Extension: IMA Battery. CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION Owners of affected vehicles within the 43 affected states will receive a notification of this warranty extension. An example of the warranty extension notification is at the end of this service bulletin. To verify warranty extension eligibility, you must do a VIN status inquiry. CORRECTIVE ACTION Replace the IMA battery module if it has failed. In addition, replace the battery condition monitor and the motor control module on 2000-01 models or, on 2002-04 models, replace the battery condition monitor only. Page 3964 Vacuum Hose Routing - CVT Model Page 6233 Splices Components Ground - "G" Pressure Plate and Clutch Disc Removal Pressure Plate: Service and Repair Pressure Plate and Clutch Disc Removal Clutch Replacement Special Tools Required ^ Clutch alignment shaft 07JAF-PM7012A ^ Remover handle 07936-3710100 ^ Ring gear holder 07LAB-PV00100 or 07924-PD20003 ^ Driver 07749-0010000 ^ Attachment, 32 x 35 mm 07746-0010100 Pressure Plate and Clutch Disc Removal 1. Check the diaphragm spring fingers height using the dial indicator (A). If the height is more than the service limit, replace the pressure plate. 2. Install the special tools. 3. To prevent warping, unscrew the pressure plate mounting bolts (A) in a crisscross pattern in several steps, then remove the pressure plate (B). 4. Inspect the pressure plate (A) surface for wear, cracks, and burning. 5. Inspect the fingers of the diaphragm spring (B) for wear at the release bearing contact area. Page 278 Fuse-to-components Index Image 6 Page 6791 100. EPS Control Unit Locations Throttle Position Sensor: Locations PGM-FI System - Component Location Index Page 7389 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 2653 13. Place the printed copies of the IMA Battery Order form and the Core Return Update Acknowledgement into the core return box with the failed IMA battery core. NOTE: If you return a failed IMA battery core without the proper forms, your warranty claim will be debited, and the core will be sent back to your dealership. 14. Return the failed IMA battery core: ^ Backtrack Dealers - Use the backtrack service provided by your daily delivery carrier to return the IMA battery. ^ Non-Backtrack Dealers - Ship the failed IMA battery core to the appropriate location by using the prepaid shipping label included with the new IMA battery. NOTE: ^ If the IMA battery return form is incomplete or not included with the failed IMA core, you will be charged a $50 diagnostic fee. ^ If the IMA battery core is not received at the specific address within 21 days from the order date of the remanufactured IMA battery, your warranty claim will be debited, and your dealership will be issued a core loss charge of $3,000. IMA BATTERY ORDER PROGRAM FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS Question: When do I use the IMA battery order program? Answer: Use the program whenever you are replacing an IMA battery. Question: How do I order an IMA battery? Answer: To order an IMA battery, refer to IMA BATTERY ORDERING on page 2. Question: Who do I call for questions on the IMA battery order program? Answer: For questions about the program, call the RPO Tech Line. Question: Who do I call if I need help diagnosing the problem, or if I have technical questions about the IMA battery? Answer: If you cannot find the answers in the appropriate service manual, service bulletins, or ServiceNews articles on iN, create a Tech Line access code, then call Automobile Tech Line: 1. From the iN main menu, select Service, then select ISIS. 2. Under Search by Vehicle, enter the model, year, and enter a keyword like IMA or BATTERY, then select Search. 3. If you cannot repair the problem with the service information provided, select Tech Line Help. 4. The Tech Line access code screen appears. Fill in all the required fields, then select SUBMIT. 5. Have the access number ready when you call Tech Line. Question: Do I need a Tech Line reference number to order an IMA battery? Answer: No. Question: What year and model IMA batteries can I order through the IMA battery order program? Answer: All current models are available. Question: There are several numbers on the battery module, which one is the serial number? Page 8087 EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 8441 156. Keyless Door Lock Control Unit Page 3406 34. ECT Sensor Page 4700 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 8785 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 7575 63. Behind Center Lower Cover Page 9254 Cavity Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity / terminal shown is # 6. Circuit Schematics Page 7640 Air Bag: Service and Repair Driver Airbag Spring-Loaded Lock Connector Spring-loaded Lock Connector Some SRS system connectors have a spring-loaded lock. Disconnecting 1. To release the lock, pull the spring-loaded sleeve (A) toward the stop (B) while holding the opposite half of the connector. Then pull the connector halves apart. Be sure to pull on the sleeve and not on the connector. Connecting 2. To reconnect, hold the pawl-side connector, and press on the back of the sleeve-side connector half in the direction shown. As the two connector halves are pressed together, the sleeve (A) is pushed back by the pawl. Do not touch the sleeve. 3. When the connector halves are completely connected, the pawl is released, and the spring-loaded sleeve locks the connector. Removal and Installation Driver's Airbag Replacement Removal 1. Disconnect the battery negative cable, and wait at least 3 minutes before beginning work. Page 8983 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. Page 510 First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 9210 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 9890 Page 9156 Terminals - "T" Shielding Switches Fuses Page 9198 Cavity Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity / terminal shown is # 6. Circuit Schematics Page 9903 40. Upper Left Kick Panel Area Page 5774 Wheel Speed Sensor: Description and Operation Wheel Sensors The wheel sensors are the magnetic contactless type. As the gear purser teeth rotate past the wheel sensor's magnetic coil, AC current is generated. The AC frequency changes in accordance with the wheel speed. The ABS control unit detects the wheel sensor signal frequency and thereby detects the wheel speed. When the wheel speed drops sharply below the vehicle speed, the inlet valve closes and if necessary, the outlet valve opens momentarily to reduce the caliper fluid pressure. The pump motor starts at this time. As the wheel speed is restored, and the outlet valve closes, the inlet valve opens momentarily to increase the caliper fluid pressure. Page 981 101. Left Front Side of Battery Module Page 1650 Valve Clearance: Adjustments Adjustment NOTE: Adjust the valves only when the cylinder head temperature is less than 100°F (38°C). 1. Remove the engine cover. 2. Remove the cylinder head cover. 3. Set the No. 1 piston at top dead center (TDC). No. 1 piston TDC mark (A) on the camshaft sprocket should align with the cylinder head surface. 4. Select the correct thickness feeler gauge for the valves you're going to check. Intake: 0.18 - 0.22 mm (0.007 - 0.009 inch) Exhaust: 0.21 - 0.25 mm (0.008 - 0.010 inch) Adjusting screw location: 5. Insert the feeler gauge (A) between the adjusting screw and the end of the valve stem and slide it back and forth; you should feel a slight amount of drag. Page 8772 Cavity Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity / terminal shown is # 6. Circuit Schematics Locations Page 9478 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: Page 6907 Diodes How to Identify Wiring Color-Coded Insulation Wire Color Page 10063 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: - Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest OHMS" range. Page 4042 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. Page 1706 Coolant: Fluid Type Specifications Fluid Type .......................................................................................... MAX mark with Honda All Season Antifreeze/Coolant Type 2 (P/N OL 999-9001) Page 2643 ^ Remove the module(s). ^ Install the new module(s) in the reverse order of removal, and torque the mounting bolts to 9.8 Nm (7.2 lb-ft). 12. Reinstall the foam insert. 13. Reinstall the IPU lid. Torque the bolts to 9.8 Nm (7.2 lb-ft). 14. Reinstall the trunk right side shelf support. Torque the bolts to 9.8 Nm (7.2 lb-ft). 15. Remove the battery module switch locking cover, flip the switch to ON, then reinstall the locking cover. 16. Reinstall the battery module switch cover. 17. Reinstall the rear clips on the middle bulkhead carpet. 18. Reinstall the cargo floor mat. 19. Check for and clear any DTCs with the HDS. 20. Remove the No. 15 (40A) fuse (EPS control unit) from the under-hood fuse/relay box. 21. With the transmission in neutral (M/T) or Park (CVT), and the clutch released (M/T), start the engine. Hold the engine speed at 3,500 rpm until the IMA battery level indicator shows at least 50 percent charge. 22. Turn off the engine, and reinstall the No. 15 fuse. 23. Center-punch a completion mark above the 14th character of the engine compartment VIN. Disclaimer Locations 19. Rear of Transmission (M/T) Page 1487 Transmission Speed Sensor: Diagrams 188. CVT Drive Pulley Speed Sensor 189. CVT Driven Pulley Speed Sensor 190. CVT Speed Sensor Page 489 51. Under Left Side of Dash Page 1058 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 5666 199. Transmission Range Switch (CVT) Page 6434 All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416 etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector or by a capital letter (A, B, C etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Connector Views that shows the connector terminals wire colors connector cavity numbers and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints shown on diagram [8] . Except for the DLC (data link connector) disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554 for example means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics A/T - Fixing Banjo Bolt Leaks Fluid Line/Hose: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Fixing Banjo Bolt Leaks SOURCE: Honda Service News TITLE: Fixing A/T Banjo Bolt Leaks APPLIES TO: All models SERVICE TIP: Got ATF leaking from any of the A/T banjo bolts? The first thing you need to do is replace the sealing washers. Next, start threading the banjo and line bracket bolts in their holes. Finally, torque the banjo bolt to 31 Nm (22 lb-ft) and the line bracket bolt to 9.8 Nm (7.2 lb-ft.). NOTE: The banjo bolt torque spec we're recommending is slightly higher than what's listed in the S/M. This is intentional. If you torque just the banjo bolt, you won't really fix the leak. ATF leaks at the banjo bolt stem from the line bracket getting tightened before the banjo bolt. This can misalign the banjo joint, causing the banjo bolt sealing washers not to contact their mating surfaces evenly. Once the sealing washers have been used, you must replace them. Page 2333 In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locater) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: - Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. Page 4965 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 8249 Power Trunk / Liftgate Lock Switch: Diagrams 42. Hatch Opener Switch 85. Hatch Key Cylinder Switch Page 2334 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: - Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest OHMS" range. Page 9961 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. Page 4680 Wire Color Abbreviations Page 9846 Number. See: Diagrams/Connector Views/Connector Views By View Number Page 1747 3. Connect the universal connect set and the Tracer- Stick dye capsule: (a) Be sure the quick coupler and control valves on the set are closed. (b) Remove the low-side service port sealing cap, and connect the set to the low-side service port using the quick coupler. (c) Hold a new dye capsule so that the embossed arrow is pointing up. Remove the black end cap, and carefully attach the capsule to the control valve fitting. NOTE: The capsule must be held with the embossed arrow pointing up or the dye will leak out of the capsule. (d) Turn the capsule so the embossed arrow is pointing down. Remove the orange end cap, and carefully attach the service valve fitting provided in the kit (finger tight). NOTE: The capsule must be held with the embossed arrow pointing down or the dye will leak out. 4. Connect the NC service equipment: With the universal connect set and dye capsule attached to the vehicle's low-side service port, connect the A/C refrigerant recovery and charging station's low-side hose quick coupler to the service valve fitting. Open the blue hand-wheel valves on both quick couplers. Leave the control valve (black knob) on the universal connect set closed. NOTE: * ^ If you have recovered refrigerant to weigh it as part of your diagnostics, or if there is a low charge, it is more efficient to recharge the system using normal procedures before installing the universal connect set. Dye can then be added using approximately 0.05 lb (0.02 kg) of refrigerant.* ^ You do not need to connect the service equipment's high-side hose to the vehicle to install the dye. If the high-side hose is connected, make sure its coupler valve is closed before proceeding. ^ Do not use the A/C recovery and charging station to recover or evacuate the A/C system when a full dye capsule is attached. The dye will be drawn into the service equipment instead of being added to the vehicle's A/C system. 5. Inspect the A/C system for leaks: (a) Run the A/C system for at least 15 minutes to circulate the dye through the system. Large leaks will be seen immediately as a fluorescent yellow glow. Smaller leaks may require at least 24 hours of vehicle operation before they become visible. Operate the A/C system as much as possible during this time to keep the dye circulating. (b) Stop the vehicle's engine and inspect the system for leaks using the ultraviolet (UV) lamp and fluorescence-enhancing glasses from the kit. Page 9045 First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 9329 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. Removal and Installation Brake Caliper: Service and Repair Removal and Installation Front Inspection and Replacement CAUTION: Frequent inhalation of brake pad dust, regardless of material composition, could be hazardous to your health. ^ Avoid breathing dust particles. ^ Never use an air hose or brush to clean brake assemblies. Use an OHSA-Approved vacuum cleaner. NOTICE: To avoid damage, do not strike aluminum parts with a metal hammer. If necessary, tap gently with a plastic tipped hammer. NOTE: Nuts and bolts with the [star] mark are special corrosion-resistant Dacro fasteners. Use the same type if replacement is necessary. Replacement 1. Remove the brake hose bracket mounting bolts (A) from the damper. 2. Remove the bolt (B) and pivot the caliper (C) up out of the way. Check the hose, pin boot, and sleeve boots for damage and deterioration. 3. Remove the pad shim (A), pad retainers (B), and inner (C) and outer (D) pad. 4. Clean the caliper thoroughly; the caliper is aluminum, check for cracks. 5. Check the brake disc for damage and cracks. Page 8423 Trim Panel: Service and Repair Trim Removal/Installation - Cargo Area Trim Removal/Installation - Cargo Area Special Tools Required KTC trim tool set SOJATP2014 * * Available through the American Honda Tool and Equipment Program NOTE: - Put on gloves to protect your hands. - Use the appropriate tool from the KTC trim tool set to avoid damage when prying components. - Take care not to bend or scratch the trim and panels. - Remove the child seat tether anchor. 1. Remove the trim as shown. 2. Install the trim in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - Check for damaged or stress-whitened clips, and replace them with new ones. - Push the clips into place securely. Locations Turn Signal Relay: Locations Turn Signal/Hazard Flasher Page 2995 173. MCM Part 2 Page 3253 EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 6639 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. Page 1978 Cavity Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity / terminal shown is # 6. Circuit Schematics Page 3230 Wire Color Abbreviations Page 2025 First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Service and Repair Front Door Panel: Service and Repair Door Panel Removal/Installation Special Tools Required - KTC trim tool set SOJATP2014 - Trim pad remover Snap-on A 177A or equivalent, commercially available NOTE: - Take care not to scratch the door panel and door. - Use the appropriate tool from the KTC trim tool set to avoid damage when prying components. 1. Remove the mirror mount cover. 2. Remove the door panel in the numbered sequence. Remove the door panel with as little bending as possible to avoid creasing or breaking it. 3. Install the panel in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - Replace any damaged clips. - Make sure the connectors are plugged in properly. - Check the window and power door lock operations. Locations Cylinder Identification Sensor: Locations Part 1 Of 2 ECM/PCM Terminal Values Engine Control Module: Testing and Inspection ECM/PCM Terminal Values ECM/PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector A (32P) Part 1 Page 6544 Fuse Block: Connector Locations Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box Page 2296 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: PGM-FI Main Relay Circuit Troubleshooting Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Testing and Inspection PGM-FI Main Relay Circuit Troubleshooting PGM-FI Main Relay Circuit Troubleshooting 1. Turn the ignition switch OFF, then disconnect the PGM-FI main relay connectors. 2. Check for continuity between body ground and PGM-FI main relay diode 2P connector terminal No.2. Is there continuity? YES - Go to step 3. NO - Repair open in the wire between the PGM-FI main relay and G101. 3. Measure voltage between body ground and PGM-FI main relay (IGP) 4P connector terminal No.2. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 5. NO - Go to step 4. 4. Check for a blown No.7 (15 A) fuse in the underhood fuse/relay box. Is the fuse blown? YES - Repair the short in the wire between the PGM-FI main relay and the No.7 (15 A) fuse. NO - Repair the open in the wire between the PGM-FI main relay and the No.7 (15 A) fuse. Page 7050 10. Remove the cotter pin (A) from the lower arm ball joint, and remove the castle nut (B). 11. Remove the lower arm ball joint from the knuckle using the special tool. NOTE: Make sure you position the ball joint remover jaw on the bushing (D) and not on the aluminum surface of the knuckle. 12. Loosen the damper pinch bolts (A) while holding the nuts (B), and remove the bolts and nuts. 13. Pull the knuckle off of the driveshaft while holding the outboard joint (c), and remove the knuckle from the damper. NOTE: Do not pull the driveshaft end outward. The driveshaft joint may come off. 14. Separate the hub (A) from the hub bearing unit (B) using the special tool and a press. Hold onto the hub to keep it from falling when pressed clear. Page 8281 Wires Page 1151 Backup Lamp Switch: Service and Repair Back-Up Light and Neutral Position Switch Test 1. Disconnect the back-up light (A) or neutral position (B) switch 2P connector. 2. Check the continuity between the terminals (C). There should be continuity with the shift lever in reverse or neutral position. 3. If necessary, replace the switch. Page 261 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 6017 ERROR: stackunderflow OFFENDING COMMAND: ~ STACK: Page 8664 EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 8786 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: Page 7613 Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Service Precautions Airbag Handling and Storage Airbag Handling and Storage Do not disassemble an airbag. It has no serviceable parts. Once an airbag has been deployed, it cannot be repaired or reused. For temporary storage of the airbag during service, please observe the following precautions. - Store the removed airbag with the pad surface up. Never put anything on the removed airbag. - Keep free from any oil, grease, detergent, or water to prevent damage to the airbag assembly. - Store the removed airbag on a secure, flat surface away from any high heat source (exceeding 200 °F/93 °C). - Never perform electrical inspections to the airbags, such as measuring resistance. - Do not position yourself in front of the airbag assembly during removal, inspection, or replacement. Page 9535 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Page 6478 Diodes How to Identify Wiring Color-Coded Insulation Wire Color Service and Repair Clutch Master Cylinder: Service and Repair Clutch Master Cylinder Replacement NOTE: Do not spill brake fluid on the vehicle; it may damage the paint; if brake fluid does contact the paint, wash it off immediately with water. 1. Remove the left front inner fender. 2. The brake fluid may be sucked out through the top of the master cylinder reservoir with a syringe. 3. Disconnect the reservoir hose (A) and clutch line (B) from the clutch master cylinder. Plug the end of the clutch line and reservoir hose with a shop towel to prevent brake fluid from coming out. 4. Pry out the lock pin (A), and pull the pedal pin (B) out of the yoke. Remove the nuts (C). 5. Remove the clutch master cylinder. 6. Install the clutch master cylinder in the reverse order of removal. Tighten the master cylinder mounting nuts to 13 Nm (1.3 kgf-cm, 9.4 ft. lbs.). 7. Bleed the clutch hydraulic system. NOTE: Reservoir filling is covered in the bleeding procedure. Page 6492 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the secondary locks. A/T - Vehicle Speed Sensor Installation Precautions Transmission Speed Sensor: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Vehicle Speed Sensor Installation Precautions Install VSS Properly to Avoid Reman A/T Damage We can't emphasize enough how important it is to follow, to the letter, the installation instructions that come with a reman A/T. These instructions help ensure that you avoid damaging the A/T and score a successful repair. This is particularly true when it comes to installing the vehicle speed sensor (VSS). Step 6 of the instructions tells you to make sure its gear is fully engaged and the VSS is fully seated before you tighten the retaining bolt. If you don't install the VSS properly, the speed sensor gear will get stripped and the A/T will be seriously damaged. So don't take risks with your customer's vehicle. Always follow these instructions to the letter. You can rest assured you're doing the job right. Page 5029 Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Description and Operation PGM-FI Main Relay The PGM-FI main relay contains two separate relays. One is energized whenever the ignition is on which supplies battery voltage to the ECM, power to the fuel injectors, and power for the fuel cut relay. The fuel cut relay is energized to supply power to the fuel pump for 2 seconds when the ignition is switched ON (II), and when the engine is running. Specifications Fuel Pressure: Specifications With the fuel pressure regulator vacuum hose disconnected and clamped ................................................ 270 - 320 kPa (2.8 - 3.3 kgf/sq.cm, 40 - 47 psi) With the engine running, unpinch and reconnect the vacuum hose ............................................................ 210 - 260 kPa (2.1 - 2.6 kgf/sq.cm, 30 - 37 psi) Page 4495 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 2299 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: Page 7450 93. Blower Power Transistor Page 5429 Transmission Speed Sensor: Locations 13. Middle of Engine 15. Front Top of Transmission Locations Evaporative Shut Valve: Locations EVAP System - Component Location Index 128. Right Side of Fuel Tank Audio System - CD/DVD Precautions DVD Player: Technical Service Bulletins Audio System - CD/DVD Precautions Adhesive Labels or Protective Disc Covers on CDs or DVDs: A Big Taboo NOTE: This article applies to all Honda models with a factory- or dealer-installed CD/DVD player or changer. We can't emphasize this enough: Never put adhesive labels or protective disc covers on recordable CDs or DVDs to be used in automotive CD/DVD players or changers. Here's why: ^ Recordable CDs and DVDs are actually thicker than their pre-recorded brethern. Automotive players and changers use rollers to draw the disc into the unit. The added thickness of an adhesive label or a protective disc cover can cause the disc to jam when it's loaded into or ejected from the unit. ^ CD/DVD players or changers are exposed to high temperatures inside the vehicle. High temperature can cause the label adhesive to soften. This can cause the label to curl on the edges and even form bubbles. Curled edges can catch on the rollers and bubbles add thickness to the disc. Either one can cause the disc to jam. To cut down on customer-caused damage, all '05 and later 0/Ms include this notice: Do not use CDs with adhesive labels. The label can curl up and cause the CD to jam in the unit. Anytime a service customer comes in with a loading or ejecting problem for a CD/DVD player or changer, ask if he or she used any discs with adhesive labels or protective disc covers. If the answer is yes, contact your DPSM for possible goodwill assistance. If the answer is no, then replace the audio unit under normal warranty. Page 4143 DTC P0979 thru P1193 Page 5993 25. Brake Fluid Level Switch Page 2901 12. Install the IPU lid. Torque the bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb-ft). 13. Reinstall the right side trunk shelf support. Torque the bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb-ft). 14. Remove the battery module switch locking cover, and flip the switch to ON. Reinstall the locking cover. 15. Reinstall the battery module switch cover. 16. Reinstall the cargo floor mat. 17. Remove the No.15 (40A) fuse (EPS control unit) from the under-hood fuse/relay box. 18. With the transmission in Neutral, and the clutch released on M/T models, start the engine. Hold it at 3,500 rpm until the IMA battery level indicator shows at least 50 percent charge. 19. Turn off the engine, and reinstall the No.15 fuse. Disclaimer Page 9761 99. Ceiling Light/Spotlights Page 1520 Windshield Washer Switch: Service and Repair Wiper/Washer Switch Test/Replacement 1. Remove the steering column covers. 2. Disconnect the 14P connector (B) from the wiper/washer switch (A). 3. Remove the two screws, then pull out the switch. 4. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table. If the continuity is not as specified, replace the switch. Specifications Connecting Rod Bearing: Specifications Connecting Rod Bearing-to-Journal Oil Clearance Standard (New) ................................................................................................................................................. 0.020 0.038 mm (0.0008 - 0.0014 inch) Service Limit ................................................................................... ............................................................................................ 0.050 mm (0.0020 inch) Page 1932 Wheels: Description and Operation Replacement wheels or tires must be equivalent to the originals in load capacity, specified dimension and mounting configuration. Improper size or type may affect bearing life, brake performance, speedometer/odometer calibration, vehicle ground clearance and tire clearance to the body and chassis. All model are equipped with metric sized tubeless steel belted radial tires. Correct tire pressures and driving habits have an important influence on tire life. Heavy cornering, excessively rapid acceleration and unnecessary sharp braking increase premature and uneven wear. Page 6419 Relay Box: Connector Locations Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box Page 6090 27. Remove the No.15 (40 A) fuse (EPS control unit) from the under-hood fuse/relay box. 28. With the transmission in neutral (M/T) or Park (CVT), and the clutch released (Mm, start the engine. Hold the engine speed at 3,500 rpm until the IMA battery level indicator shows at least 50 percent charge. 29. Turn off the engine, and reinstall the No.15 fuse. Disclaimer Page 2825 8. Measure voltage at the junction board terminals. There should be 10.0 V or less. If voltage is present, there is a problem in the circuit; do the DTC troubleshooting first. Page 9313 Wire Color Abbreviations Page 7298 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 1179 Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution diagram set to get a more detailed picture of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Page 9953 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Emissions - OBD II DTC's And Associated Monitors Engine Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins Emissions - OBD II DTC's And Associated Monitors 03-020 April 2, 2010 Applies To: All OBD II-equipped models except Passport OBD II DTCs and Their Associated Monitors (Supersedes 03-020, dated March 29, 2003, to revise the information marked by the black bars and asterisks) *REVISION SUMMARY Numerous DTCs were added. Refer to the list for details.* Following is a list of all OBD II DTCs and their associated monitors for all Honda automobiles with OBD II. No one model has every DTC in the list. DTC P0AA6 thru P0A9E Page 3101 ECU Module Kit: P/N 06060-PHM-305, H/C 6912901 WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION Operation Number: 118121 Flat Rate Time: 0.8 hour Failed Part: P/N 1K100-PHM-010 H/C 6377170 Defect Code: 5AG Contention Code: L43 Template ID: 01-102A Skill Level: Repair Technician Disclaimer Repair Procedure 1. Write down the radio station presets. 2. Make sure the ignition switch is off, then disconnect the negative cable from the under-hood 12 V battery. 3. Remove the cargo floor mat and the cargo box (see page 20-43 of the 2000 Insight Service Manual). 4. Remove the battery module switch cover, then remove the locking cover from the switch. 5. Turn off the battery module switch. Reinstall the locking cover on the switch, and remove the 5 mm bolt on the side of the switch. 6. Wait at least 5 minutes for the capacitors in the system to discharge. Locations SRS Components Page 5828 Brake Caliper: Service and Repair Disassembly and Reassembly Overhaul CAUTION: Frequent inhalation of brake pad dust, regardless of material composition, could be hazardous to your health. ^ Avoid breathing dust particles. ^ Never use an air hose or brush to clean brake assemblies. Use an OSHA-approved vacuum cleaner. NOTICE: To avoid damage, do not strike aluminum parts with a metal hammer. If necessary, tap gently with a plastic-tipped hammer. NOTE: Nuts and bolts with the mark are special corrosion-resistant Dacro fasteners. Use the same type if replacement is necessary. Remove, disassemble, inspect, reassemble, and install the caliper, and note these items: ^ Do not spill brake fluid on the vehicle; it may damage the paint; if brake fluid gets on the paint, wash it off immediately with water. ^ To prevent dripping, cover disconnected hose joints with rags or shop towels. ^ Clean all parts in brake fluid and air dry; blow out all passages with compressed air. ^ Before reassembling, check that all parts are free of dirt and other foreign particles. ^ Replace parts with new ones as specified in the illustration. ^ Make sure no dirt or other foreign matter gets into the brake fluid. ^ Make sure no grease or oil gets on the brake discs or pads. ^ When reusing pads, always reinstall them in their original positions to prevent loss of braking efficiency. ^ Do not reuse drained brake fluid. ^ Always use Honda DOT 3 Brake Fluid. Non-Honda brake fluid can cause corrosion and shorten the life of the system. ^ Coat the piston, piston seal groove, and caliper bore with clean brake fluid. ^ Replace all rubber parts with new ones. ^ After installing the caliper, check the brake hose and line for leaks, interference, and twisting. Page 8688 Removal - Remove the wheelhouse upper member, then replace the front wheelhouse NOTE: Do not section the wheelhouse upper member; replacement must be made at the factory seams. Locations Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor: Locations EVAP System - Component Location Index 128. Right Side of Fuel Tank Page 7408 Evaporator Temperature Sensor / Switch: Description and Operation Evaporator Temperature Sensor The evaporator temperature sensor is located on the evaporator housing. It the temperature at the evaporator gets too cold, the evaporator temperature sensor sends a signal to the climate control unit to turn off the A/C compressor clutch. This prevents condensation from freezing on the evaporator fins and blocking air delivery into the passenger compartment. Page 332 DTC P0750 thru P0977 Page 8478 79. Rear of Passenger's Door Page 1200 5. Door Switch, Driver's Or Passenger's Page 6524 Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box Part 1 Page 4887 Idle Air Control Valve: Description and Operation IAC (Idle Air Control) Valve To maintain the proper idle speed, the IAC valve changes the amount of air bypassing the throttle body in response to an electrical signal from the ECM. Page 4395 83. ELD Unit Locations Trunk / Liftgate Relay: Locations Page 4811 Fuel Gauge Sender: Technical Service Bulletins Fuel Gauge Sending Unit - Service Manual Revision SOURCE: Honda Service News April 2003 TITLE: S/M Fix: Fuel Gauge Sending Unit Test APPLIES TO: 2000-03 Insight SERVICE TIP: Step 6 on page 11-192 of the 2000-03 Insight S/M lists the wrong measured voltage between terminals No. 1 and No. 2 of the fuel pump 5P connector. The right measured voltage should be battery voltage. Fix your copies of the S/M to look like this: Page 5590 Fluid - M/T: Service and Repair Transmission Fluid Inspection and Replacement 1. Park the vehicle on level ground, and turn the engine OFF. 2. Remove the left engine under-cover. 3. Remove the oil filler plug (A) and washer (B), check the condition of the fluid, and make sure the fluid is at the proper level (C). 4. If the transmission fluid is dirty, remove the oil filler plug and drain plug (D) and drain the fluid. 5. Reinstall the drain plug (D) with a new washer (E), and refill the transmission fluid to proper level. Oil Capacity 1.5 L (1.59 US qt) at fluid change 1.6 L (1.69 US qt) at overhaul Always use Honda Manual Transmission Fluid (MTF). Using motor oil can cause stiffer shifting because it does not contain the proper additives. 6. Reinstall the oil filler plug with a new washer. Page 2355 5. If the filter is not clogged, push the VTEC solenoid valve with your finger and check its movement. If the VTEC solenoid valve is normal, check the engine oil pressure. Page 4162 DISCLAIMER Locations 23. Left Rear of Engine Compartment Page 5330 8. Refill the fluid in the reservoir at the MAX (upper) level line (see step 10 in Slave Cylinder Replacement). Page 8530 Power Mirror Switch: Service and Repair Power Mirror Switch Test/Replacement 1. Remove the instrument panel. 2. Disconnect the 10P connector (A) from the power mirror switch (B). 3. Check for continuity between the terminals in switch position according to the table. 4. If the continuity is not as specified, remove the two screws and replace the switch. Page 10140 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. Service and Repair Wheel Cylinder: Service and Repair Rear Wheel Cylinder Replacement NOTE: ^ Do not spill brake fluid on the vehicle; it may damage the paint; if brake fluid does contact the paint, wash it off immediately with water. ^ To prevent spills, cover the hose joints with rags or shop towels. ^ Use only a Honda wheel cylinder special bolt. 1. Remove the brake shoes. 2. Disconnect the brake line (A) from the wheel cylinder (B). 3. Remove the bolt (C) and the wheel cylinder from the backing plate. 4. Apply Three Bond 1109G sealant (E) between the wheel cylinder (B) and backing plate (D), and install the wheel cylinder. 5. Install the removed parts in the reverse order of removal. 6. Bleed the brake system. 7. Check for leaks at the line joint and bleed screw, and retighten if necessary. Page 4031 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 6134 6. Remove the right trunk shelf support (five clips and two bolts). 7. Remove the six mid-frame cover bolts. Remove the intelligent power unit (IPU) lid (17 bolts). 8. Measure the voltage at the junction board terminals. There should be 30 V or less. If you read more than 30 V, there is a problem in the circuit; do the DTC troubleshooting first. 9. Look at the part number on the motor control module (MCM), and refer to this chart. If there is a replacement part number listed for it, you need to order a replacement MCM. 10. Look at the part number on the battery condition monitor (BCM). If the part number is not 1K100-PHM-A01, you need to order a replacement BCM. Page 924 Oil Pressure Sender: Service and Repair Oil Pressure Switch Replacement 1. Remove the throttle body. 2. Disconnect the oil pressure switch connector, then remove the oil pressure switch. 3. Apply liquid gasket to the oil pressure switch, then install the oil pressure switch. 4. Install the throttle body. Page 4703 EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 9168 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. Page 8536 In warranty: American Honda will reimburse for this repair only under these conditions: ^ It is done during PDI ^ No more than 30 days have elapsed since the vehicle was received at the dealership (according to the date noted on the motor carrier's bill of lading) Operation number: 812355 Flat rate time: 1.0 hour Failed P/N: PDI-PAINT, H/C 3173994 *Defect code: 08103 Symptom code 08811* Skill level: Repair Technician *NOTE: When submitting the claim, make sure you enter the vehicle's date of receipt in the customer contention comment section. The claim will be rejected without this information.* REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Wash and dry the vehicle out of direct sunlight. 2. Tear off a piece of clay. Shape the piece with your hands into a flat disk about 3 inches in diameter. 3. Spray a 2-to 3-square-foot area of the affected panel with the manufacturer's lubricant. 4. Clean a 1-square-foot section of the sprayed area by rubbing it with the clay. Page 10253 Glass Primer and Adhesive Application Page 1860 Wire Color Coding Distinct Of Circuit By Wire Base Color All wires have color-coded insulation. Wires belonging to a system's main harness will have a single color. Wires belonging to a system's sub-circuits will have a colored stripe. Striped wires use the codes found in the chart to show wire size and colors. Abbreviations are used to indicate wire color within a circuit diagram. Wire Color Abbreviations The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics: WHT................................... White YEL................................... Yellow BLK................................... Black BLU................................... Blue GRN................................... Green RED................................... Red ORN................................... Orange PNK................................... Pink BRN................................... Brown GRY................................... Gray PUR................................... Purple LT BLU................................... Light Blue LT GRN................................... Light Green The wire insulation has one color or one color with another color stripe. The second color is the stripe. How to Identify Connector Terminals How to Identify Connector Terminals Page 1503 Doors - Component Location Index Capacity Specifications Clutch Fluid: Capacity Specifications Transmission oil For fluid change ................................................................................................................................... ................................................ 1.5 L (1.59 US qt.) For overhaul ......................................................... ................................................................................................................................ 1.6 L (1.69 US qt.) Locations 135. Under Right Side of Kick Panel (CVT) Page 4191 DTC P1486 thru P1585 Campaign - Park Brake Lever Update Technical Service Bulletin # 03-030 Date: 030515 Campaign - Park Brake Lever Update 03-030 May 15, 2003 Applies To: 2000 Insight - ALL 2001 Insight with M/T - From VIN JHMZE1...1T000001 thru JHMZE1...1T001923 Product Update: Insight Parking Brake Lever BACKGROUND A weak support rod in the parking brake lever can cause the release button to stick. This condition makes the parking brake difficult to set, but it does not affect normal braking while driving. CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION All owners of affected vehicles will be mailed a notification of this product update. A copy of the customer notification is shown in this service bulletin. Not all of the vehicles in the VIN range are affected by this campaign, and some have already been repaired. Before beginning work on a vehicle, verify its eligibility by checking one of these items: ^ The customer has a notification letter. ^ The vehicle is shown on your campaign responsibility report. ^ The vehicle is shown as eligible on an IN VIN status inquiry. If any affected vehicles are in your new or used vehicle inventory, repair them as described in this service bulletin. CORRECTIVE ACTION Replace the parking brake lever. PARTS INFORMATION Parking Brake Lever: P/N 47105-S3Y-033ZA, H/C 6819478 WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION Operation Number: 412108 Flat Rate Time: 0.3 hour Failed Part: P/N 47105-S3Y-033ZA H/C 6819478 Defect Code: 5BK Contention Code: L89 Template ID: 03-030A Skill Level: Repair Technician REPAIR PROCEDURE Page 8069 Diodes How to Identify Wiring Color-Coded Insulation Wire Color Page 8352 Carpet: Service and Repair Middle Bulkhead Carpet Replacement Middle Bulkhead Carpet Replacement Special Tools Required KTC trim tool set SOJATP2014 * * Available through the American Honda Tool and Equipment Program NOTE: - Put on gloves to protect your hands. - Use the appropriate tool from the KTC trim tool set to avoid damage when prying components. - Take care not to damage, wrinkle or twist the carpets. - Be careful not to damage the dashboard or other interior trim pieces. 1. Remove these items: - B-pillar lower trim panel, both sides - Rear console - Cargo floor mat, as necessary 2. Remove the middle bulkhead carpet as shown. 3. Install the carpet in the reverse order of removal, and check for damaged or stress-whitened clips, and replace them with new ones. Page 9423 In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locater) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: - Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. Page 1264 Crankshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair Replacement 1. Disconnect the CKP sensor connector, then remove the CKP sensor (A). 2. Install the CKP sensor using a new O-ring (B). Page 2020 In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locater) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: - Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. Page 512 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Hybrid System - IMA Battery Warranty Extension Battery Module: All Technical Service Bulletins Hybrid System - IMA Battery Warranty Extension 06-027 March 16, 2011 Applies To: 2000-2004 Insight - See VEHICLES AFFECTED Warranty Extension: IMA Battery (Supersedes 06-027, dated February 5, 2008, to revise the information marked by the black bars and asterisks) *REVISION SUMMARY Under WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION, some operation number and flat rate time information was changed.* BACKGROUND NOTE: Because of a class action settlement, the warranty extension coverage for the IMA battery on 2002-04 Insights purchased or leased between April 13, 2002, and November 7, 2006, is now 10 years or 157,500 miles, whichever occurs first. For more information, refer to Service Bulletin 06-085, Warranty Extension: Vehicle Warranty Mileage. To ensure continued reliability with the IMA system, American Honda is announcing an IMA battery warranty extension for certain 2000-2004 Insights. The IMA battery is now covered for 10 years or 150,000 miles, whichever comes first. This warranty extension applies only in states where there is an abnormally high replacement rate for IMA batteries. VEHICLES AFFECTED This warranty extension affects all 2000-2004 Insights registered in the states of Arizona, California, Colorado, Florida, Hawaii, Nevada, and Texas, the shaded states on this map. CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION Owners of affected vehicles within the seven-state area have received a notification of this warranty extension and a related product update. An example of the product update/warranty extension notification is at the end of Service Bulletin 06-026, Product Update: Premature IMA Battery Module Failure. To verify warranty extension eligibility, you must do a VIN status inquiry. CORRECTIVE ACTION Replace the IMA battery if it has failed. WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION Failed Part: P/N 1K000-PHM-906 Defect Code: 5KH00 Symptom Code: Q1200 Skill Level: Repair Technician REPAIR PROCEDURE Replace the IMA battery. Refer to Service Bulletin 00-070, IMA Battery Module In-Warranty Exchange Program. Page 3159 ECU Module Kit: P/N 06060-PHM-305, H/C 6912901 WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION Operation Number: 118121 Flat Rate Time: 0.8 hour Failed Part: P/N 1K100-PHM-010 H/C 6377170 Defect Code: 5AG Contention Code: L43 Template ID: 01-102A Skill Level: Repair Technician Disclaimer Repair Procedure 1. Write down the radio station presets. 2. Make sure the ignition switch is off, then disconnect the negative cable from the under-hood 12 V battery. 3. Remove the cargo floor mat and the cargo box (see page 20-43 of the 2000 Insight Service Manual). 4. Remove the battery module switch cover, then remove the locking cover from the switch. 5. Turn off the battery module switch. Reinstall the locking cover on the switch, and remove the 5 mm bolt on the side of the switch. 6. Wait at least 5 minutes for the capacitors in the system to discharge. Page 699 16. With the help of an assistant, lift the battery module out of the vehicle, and carefully set it down on a flat surface. 17. Install the new battery module in the reverse order of removal (steps 16, 15, 14, 13, 12, and 11). 18. Install a new BCM (2002-04 Insights) ora new BCM and MCM (2000-01 Insights): ^ Remove the mounting bolts. ^ Disconnect the connectors: The BCM has three the MCM has five. ^ Remove the module(s). ^ Install the new module(s) in the reverse order of removal, and torque the mounting bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb-ft). 19. Reinstall the foam insert. 20. Reinstall the IPU lid. Torque the bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb.ft). 21. Reinstall the under-cover (two bolts, two clips, and three screw clips.) Torque the bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb.ft). 22. Remove the battery module switch locking cover, flip the switch to ON, then reinstall the locking cover. 23. Reinstall the battery module switch cover. 24. Reinstall the rear clips on the middle bulkhead carpet. 25. Reinstall the cargo floor mat. 26. Check for and clear any DTCs with the HDS. Page 2565 Thermostat: Testing and Inspection Test Replace the thermostat if it is open at room temperature. To test a closed thermostat: 1. Suspend the thermostat (A) in a container of water. Do not let the thermometer (B) touch the bottom of the hot container. 2. Heat the water, and check the temperature with the thermometer. Check the temperature at which the thermostat first opens, and at which it is fully open. 3. Measure the lift height of the thermostat when it is fully open. Standard Thermostat Lift height: above 8.0 mm (0.31 inch) Starts opening: 187 - 194°F (86 - 90°C) Fully open: 212°F (100°C) Page 811 Trunk / Liftgate Switch: Connector Locations 114. Middle of Cargo Area 118. Middle of Hatch Service and Repair Oil Pressure Switch (For Fuel Pump): Service and Repair VTEC Oil Pressure Switch Replacement 1. Disconnect the VTEC oil pressure switch connector, then remove the VTEC oil pressure switch (A). 2. Install the VTEC oil pressure switch using a new O-ring (B). Page 8652 Trunk / Liftgate Switch: Diagnostic Aids Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Page 6682 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. Page 3390 11. Middle of Engine Page 8282 Connectors - "C" Page 469 ECM/PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector B (25P) Part 1 Diagrams Front Strut Assembly Page 7371 Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution diagram set to get a more detailed picture of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Page 7375 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. Locations 41. Under Left Side of Dash Page 10054 Terminals - "T" Shielding Switches Fuses Locations Ambient Temperature Sensor / Switch HVAC: Locations Heating - Component Location Index Page 1289 Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor: Description and Operation Fuel Tank Pressure (FTP) Sensor The FTP sensor converts fuel tank absolute pressure into an electrical input to the ECM. Page 8002 Example of Customer Letter April 2000 Product Update: Insight Radio Reception Dear Insight Owner: We have sent you this letter to notify you of a potential problem with your Insight and what you need to do to have it repaired. What is the problem? If you are listening to an AM radio station, you may hear static when you use the rear window wiper. This is caused by inadequate grounding of the rear window wiper motor. What should you do? Call your local Honda dealer and make an appointment to have your Insight updated. The dealer will add a ground to the rear window wiper motor. This update will be done free of charge. Please plan to leave your car at the dealer for half a day to allow them flexibility in scheduling. What to do if you feel this notice is in error. Our records show that you are the current owner or lessee of a 2000 Insight involved in this update. If this is not the case, or the name/address information is incorrect, please fill out and return the enclosed, postage-paid Information Change Card. This will help us update our records. If you have questions. If you have any questions about this notice, or need assistance with contacting a Honda dealer, please call the Honda Consumer Affairs Department at (800)999-1009. Thank you for your cooperation. Disclaimer Page 3695 First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Gas Tank - Fuel Pump/Sending Unit Installation Tip Fuel Gauge Sender: Technical Service Bulletins Gas Tank - Fuel Pump/Sending Unit Installation Tip SOURCE: Honda Service News March 2003 TITLE: Installing an In-Tank Fuel Pump/Sending Unit? Don't Forget a New Base Gasket, Locknut, and Fuel Line Retainers APPLIES TO: See Models Listed In Illustration SERVICE TIP: Whenever you install an in-tank fuel pump/sending unit into a plastic fuel tank, the S/M tells you to install a new base gasket. But did you know you also need to replace the locknut and the fuel line retainers as well? Make a note in the Fuel Supply System subsection of the appropriate S/Ms to also replace the locknut and the fuel line retainers. Then follow this handy chart to order the appropriate parts. Install the new gasket on the fuel tank side, not on the fuel pump/sending unit side; this ensures that the gasket doesn't get pinched or rolled. If you don't install the fuel pump/sending unit correctly, the MIL could come on with an EVAP control system leakage DTC set. The gasket and the locknut are currently available in Honda parts stock under separate part numbers. But soon, they'll be packaged under a single part number. The fuel sending unit, gasket, and locknut will also be packaged together under a single part number. The gasket and the locknut will then be discontinued as separate part numbers. Page 448 EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 2285 Cavity Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity / terminal shown is # 6. Circuit Schematics Page 7438 43. Heater Core Temperature Sensor Page 10116 Connectors - "C" Engine/Motor Controls - IMA Indicator ON/DTC's Set Battery Condition Monitor: Customer Interest Engine/Motor Controls - IMA Indicator ON/DTC's Set 02-035 July 23, 2002 Applies To: 2000 Insight - ALL 2001 Insight With M/T - From JHMZE13...1T00001 thru JHMZE13...1T01925 IMA Indicator Comes On With DTC 63 or P1448 (Supersedes 02-035, IMA System Stores DTC 63 or P1448, dated June 25, 2002) Updated information is shown by black bars and asterisks. SYMPTOM The IMA (Integrated Motor Assist) system indicator is on and DIG 63 (P1448) is stored in the MCM memory. PROBABLE CAUSE The MCM (motor control module) software incorrectly reports an IMA battery cooling problem. CORRECTIVE ACTION Replace the battery condition monitor module and the motor control module. PARTS INFORMATION ECU Module Kit: P/N 06060-PHM-305 H/C 6912901 WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. * Operation Number: 118122 * Flat Rate Time: 0.8 hour Failed Part: P/N 1K100-PHM-010 H/C 6377170 Defect Code: 032 Contention Code: C99 Template ID: 02-035A Skill Level: Repair Technician Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. DIAGNOSIS Master Switch Replacement Power Window Switch: Service and Repair Master Switch Replacement Master Switch Test/Replacement 1. Remove the instrument panel. 2. Disconnect the 14P connector (A) from the power window master switch (B). 3. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table. Driver's Switch: The driver's switch is combined with the control unit, so you cannot isolate the switch to test it. Instead, run the master switch input test procedures. If the tests are normal, the driver's switch must be faulty. 4. If the continuity is not as specified, remove the three screws and replace the switch. Page 5508 Axle Shaft: Testing and Inspection Driveshaft Inspection 1. Check the inboard boot (A) and the outboard boot (B) on the driveshaft (C) for cracks, damage, leaking grease, and loose boot bands (D). If any damage is found, replace the boot and boot bands. 2. Turn the driveshaft by hand, and make sure the splines (E) and joint are not excessively loose. 3. Make sure the driveshaft is not twisted or cracked; if it is, replace it. Page 8831 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Testing and Inspection Vacuum Brake Booster Check Valve: Testing and Inspection BOOSTER CHECK VALVE TEST 1. Disconnect the brake booster vacuum hose (check valve built in) (A) at the booster (B). 2. Start the engine and let it idle. There should be vacuum available. If no vacuum is available, the check valve is not working properly. Replace the brake booster vacuum hose and check valve and retest. Page 401 DTC P0563 thru P0748 Locations Battery Cooling Fan Resistor: Locations 97. Left Rear Side of PCU 98. Left Rear Side of PCU 104. Left Front Side of Battery Module (Connectors Disconnected) Page 9823 Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution diagram set to get a more detailed picture of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Page 9776 Diodes How to Identify Wiring Color-Coded Insulation Wire Color Page 6446 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: Page 2329 Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow from power at the top of the diagram to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another for example is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors Page 6309 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. Page 2506 5. Remove the mounting nut from the heater unit. Take care not to damage or bend the fuel lines, the brake lines, etc. 6. Remove the dashboard. 7. With air conditioning remove the evaporator. Without air conditioning remove the heater duct. 8. Remove the mounting bolts in the following sequence, then remove the center bracket (A), knee bolster (B), and the hanger beam (C). Page 625 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 481 Engine Control Module: Service and Repair Updating the ECM/PCM How To Substitute The ECM For Tosting Purposes-'00-01 M/T Models Use this procedure if you need a known-good ECM to test a vehicle. It allows you to swap a ECM from a "donor" vehicle without having to program it to the test vehicle's ignition key. 1. Cut a temporary ignition key for the test vehicle with a non-immobilizer key blank. 2. Remove the ECM from the test vehicle. 3. Write the test vehicle's VIN on the ECM you just removed to avoid confusing it with the donor vehicle's ECM. 4. Remove the known-good ECM from the donor vehicle, and install it in the test vehicle. 5. Tape the donor vehicle's ignition key head-to-head to the test vehicle's temporary key (A). The ECM will recognize the code from the donor vehicle's key (B) and allow you to start the engine with the temporary key. 6. After completing your tests, reinstall both ECMs, and destroy the temporary key. Page 1253 Part 1 Of 2 Page 1778 Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Service Precautions Precautions For Electrical Inspections Precautions For Electrical Inspections When using electrical test equipment, insert the probe of the tester into the wire side of the connector. Do not insert the probe of the tester into the terminal side of the connector, and do not tamper with the connector. Use a U-shaped probe. Do not insert the probe forcibly. Use specified service connectors in troubleshooting. Using improper tools could cause an error in inspection due to poor metal-to-metal contact. Page 6805 125. EPS Torque Sensor Page 9099 12. Oil Pressure Switch Page 9827 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. Page 1098 Connectors - "C" Page 6091 Page 7537 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. Page 2861 Motor Control Module (MCM): Locations 108. Top Front of Battery Module 110. Top Rear of Battery Module Page 6790 73. Under Right Side of Kick Panel (M/T) 134. Under Right Side of Kick Panel (CVT) Page 8068 Terminals - "T" Shielding Switches Fuses SRS Components Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Description and Operation SRS Components SRS Components The SRS is a safety device which, when used in conjunction with the seat belt, is designed to help protect the driver and passenger in a frontal impact exceeding a certain set limit. The system consists of the SRS unit, including a safing sensor and an impact sensor (A), the cable reel (B), the driver's airbag (C) and the passenger's airbag (D). The seat belt tensioner (E) is linked with the SRS airbags to further increase the effectiveness of the seat belt. In a front-end collision, the tensioner instantly retracts the belt firmly to secure the occupants in their seats. Page 3940 All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416 etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector or by a capital letter (A, B, C etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Connector Views that shows the connector terminals wire colors connector cavity numbers and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints shown on diagram [8] . Except for the DLC (data link connector) disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554 for example means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Page 3502 Does the meter indicate pulsing voltage? YES - Replace the speedometer. NO - Repair open in the BLU/WHT wire between the VSS and the speedometer. Testing and Inspection Radiator Cooling Fan Control Module Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relay Test Normally-open type A: 1. Turn the battery module switch OFF, and measure the voltage. 2. Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is disconnected. A/C compressor clutch relay - Air fuel ratio sensor relay - Condenser fan relay - Daytime running lights relay (Canada) - Headlight relay 1 - Headlight relay 2 - High speed battery module fan control relay - High speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - High voltage conductor control relay - Horn relay - Ignition hold relay - Low speed battery module fan control relay - Low speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - Power window relay - Radiator fan relay - Rear window defogger relay - Reverse relay - Starter cut relay Page 5627 Shifter M/T: Service and Repair Shift Lever Clearance Inspection For further information regarding this component and the system that it is a part of, please refer to Manual Transmission/Transaxle; Service and Repair. Page 9469 In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locater) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: - Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. Page 8808 Cavity Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity / terminal shown is # 6. Circuit Schematics Page 3340 Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow from power at the top of the diagram to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another for example is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors Page 4997 Wire Color Abbreviations Page 4692 In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locater) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: - Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. Page 7381 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 4533 Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution diagram set to get a more detailed picture of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Page 3924 84. Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor Page 1989 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 5816 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. Page 5385 9. Insert the dipstick back into the transmission. Page 3997 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. Page 9706 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. Page 8793 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 8091 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. Page 6240 Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution diagram set to get a more detailed picture of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Page 1332 94. TP Sensor Page 3186 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. Page 1889 Connector-to-Fuse/Relay Box Index Image 6-4 Page 3398 YES - Replace the clutch switch. NO - Go to step 9. 9. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 10. Disconnect ECM connector B (25P). 11. Check for continuity between ECM connector terminal B14 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Repair short in the wire between the ECM (B14) and the clutch switch. NO - Substitute a known-good ECM and recheck. If symptom/indication goes away, replace the original ECM. See: Computers and Control Systems/Testing and Inspection/Initial Inspection and Diagnostic Overview/Diagnostic Strategies 12. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 13. Disconnect the clutch switch 2P connector. 14. Check for continuity between the clutch switch 2P connector terminals No.1 and No.2 with the clutch pedal pressed. Is there continuity? YES - Go to step 15. NO - Adjust the clutch switch. 15. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). Page 4045 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Page 4536 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: - Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest OHMS" range. Page 7717 Child Seat Tether Attachment: Description and Operation Attachment points are provided for a rear seat mounted child restraint system which uses a top tether. The attachment points are located on the rear shelf, just behind the rear seat-back. When using a child seat with a top tether, install the child seat anchor plates securely. WARNING: Do not use the child seat anchor plate for any other purpose; it is designed exclusively for installation of a child seat. Page 4367 Part 1 Of 2 Page 10053 Splices Components Ground - "G" Page 9439 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 4968 EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 8472 Keyless Entry Transmitter: Service and Repair Transmitter Programming Storing transmitter codes: The codes of up to three transmitters can be stored into the keyless receiver unit memory. (A fourth code cannot be stored.) NOTE: It is important to maintain the time limits between the steps. 1. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 2. Within 1 to 4 sec., push the transmitter lock or unlock button with the transmitter aimed at the receiver (control unit). 3. Within 1 to 4 sec., turn the ignition switch OFF. 4. Within 1 to 4 sec., turn the ignition switch ON (II). 5. Within 1 to 4 sec., push the transmitter lock or unlock button with the transmitter aimed at the receiver (control unit). 6. Within 1 to 4 sec., turn the ignition switch OFF. 7. Within 4 sec., turn the ignition switch ON (II). 8. Within 1 to 4 sec., push the transmitter lock or unlock button with the transmitter aimed at the receiver (control unit). 9. Within 1 to 4 sec., turn the ignition switch OFF. 10. Within 4 sec., turn the ignition switch ON (II). 11. Within 1 to 4 sec., push the transmitter lock or unlock button with the transmitter aimed at the receiver (control unit). 12. Confirm you can hear the sound of the door lock actuators. Within 1 to 4 sec., push the transmitter lock or unlock button again. 13. Within 10 sec., aim the transmitters (up to three) whose codes you want to store at the receiver, and press the transmitter lock or unlock buttons. Confirm that you can hear the sound of the door lock actuators after each transmitter code is stored. 14. Turn the ignition switch OFF, and pull out the key. 15. Confirm proper operation with the new code(s). Page 7006 Removal - Remove the wheelhouse upper member, then replace the front wheelhouse NOTE: Do not section the wheelhouse upper member; replacement must be made at the factory seams. Page 5820 Locations Windshield Washer Motor: Locations Wipers/Washers - Component Location Index Page 1557 ^ Loosen the front subframe bolts. See the applicable service manual for more information. NOTE: The front wheels are being viewed from the rear of the vehicle. ^ Depending which way you need to shift the subframe, insert a pry bar between the subframe and body at both the front and rear positions of the subframe. NOTE: Be careful not to damage the vehicle. You could bend and damage the frame and/or body if you apply too much pressure. ^ Press on both pry bars to shift the subframe. It will move only a few millimeters. This should adjust the camber about 0.2-0.5°. ^ While holding the subframe in place, have an assistant torque the subframe bolts to their proper torque. Front Camber Adjustment, Strut Suspension ^ Raise the vehicle, and remove the front tires. ^ Loosen the damper pinch bolts and the flange nuts. ^ Adjust the camber by moving the bottom of the damper within the range of the damper pinch bolt free play. NOTE: Some vehicles have special pinch bolts that allow more adjustment. For more information, refer to the parts catalog. ^ Tighten the damper pinch bolts to the specified torque. ^ Reinstall the front wheels and lower the vehicle. Bounce the front of the vehicle several times to stabilize the suspension. A/T - Do Not Remove Torque Converter From Mainshaft Torque Converter: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Do Not Remove Torque Converter From Mainshaft SOURCE: Honda Service News TITLE: Keep Torque Converter on Mainshaft to Avoid Damage APPLIES TO: All models SERVICE TIP: We can't emphasize enough how important it is to keep the torque converter in place when you're handling or installing a reman A/T. If the torque converter slips off the mainshaft, and you don't put it back on the shaft exactly right, you could cut the O-ring. This could result in loss of lock-up control and ATF leakage. Page 7009 - Weld the damper housing, wheelhouse B, and front damper base. - From passenger compartment side, plug weld the holes in the dashboard lower, wheelhouse B and damper base. Locations Intake Air Temperature Sensor: Locations PGM-FI System - Component Location Index Page 7192 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Emissions/Engine Controls - MIL ON/DTC P1457 (EVAP) Engine Control Module: Customer Interest Emissions/Engine Controls - MIL ON/DTC P1457 (EVAP) 03-001 January 28, 2003 Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED MIL Comes On With DTC P1457: EVAP Bypass Solenoid Valve Failure SYMPTOM The MIL is on, and DTC P1457 [leak detected in EVAP control system (EVAP control canister system)] is set. PROBABLE CAUSE The EVAP bypass solenoid valve can fail due to corrosion. The solenoid valve may get water inside. If the water contains road salt, the solenoid windings could corrode, causing the valve to fail. In a few rare instances, the corrosion could be severe enough to cause an internal short in the solenoid valve, which could damage the ECM/PCM. If this happens, both the bypass solenoid valve and the ECM/PCM would need to be replaced. Vehicles driven in the Northeastern part of the U.S. are more likely to have this problem because of the salting of roads during the winter months. Vehicles driven where salt is not used on the roads are much less likely to have this problem. VEHICLES AFFECTED 1998-02 Accord 1998-00 Civic 1998-01 CR-V 2000-02 Insight 1999-03 Odyssey 2003 Pilot 2000-03 S2000 CORRECTIVE ACTION Test and, if necessary, replace the EVAP bypass solenoid valve. Replace the ECM/PCM if needed. PARTS INFORMATION Refer to the parts catalog for the appropriate part number and Honda code. WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Failed Part: EVAP Bypass Solenoid Valve: Fuel Pump/Fuel Gauge Sending Unit Replacement Fuel Gauge Sender: Service and Repair Fuel Pump/Fuel Gauge Sending Unit Replacement Fuel Pump/Fuel Gauge Sending Unit Replacement Special Tools Required Adjustable ring wrench 07XAA-001010A M/T model: 1. Remove the fuel tank. 2. Disconnect the quick-connect fittings from the fuel pump. 3. Using the tool, loosen the fuel tank unit locknut (A). 4. Remove the bracket (A), the fuel filter (B), the fuel tank unit (C), the case (D), and the wire harness (E). 5. When connecting the fuel pump, make sure the connection is secure and the suction filter (F) is firmly connected to the fuel pump (G). 6. Install the part in the reverse order of removal with a new base gasket, then check these items: - When connecting the wire harness, make sure the connection is secure and the connector (H) is firmly locked into the place. - Do not push the lower part of the suction filter. - When installing the fuel gauge sending unit, make sure the connection is secure and the connector is firmly locked into place. Be careful not to bend or twist it excessively. - When installing the fuel pump assembly, align the marks (J) on the fuel tank (K) and the fuel pump assembly (L). CVT model: 1. Remove the fuel tank. 2. Disconnect the quick-connect fittings from the fuel pump. Page 10223 Power Window Switch: Diagrams 119. Window Switch, Passenger's 138. Power Window Switch, Master Page 7103 Is there battery voltage? YES - Check for loose wires or poor connections at climate control unit connector B (22P) and at the A/C pressure switch 4P connector. If the connections are good, substitute a known-good climate control unit, and recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away, replace the original climate control unit. NO - Repair open in the wire between the climate control unit and the A/C pressure switch. 10. Check for proper A/C system pressure. Is the pressure within specifications? YES - Replace the A/C pressure switch. NO - Repair the A/C pressure problem. Page 9077 Malfunction Indicator Lamp: Testing and Inspection MIL Circuit Troubleshooting 1. Connect an OBD II scan tool/Honda PGM Tester. 2. Turn the ignition switch ON (II) and read the OBD II scan tool/Honda PGM Tester. Does the OBD II scan tool/Honda PGM Tester communicate with the ECM? YES - Go to step 3. NO - Go to troubleshooting "DLC Circuit Troubleshooting". 3. Check the OBD II scan tool/Honda PGM Tester for DTCs Are any DTCs indicated? YES - Go to the DTC Troubleshooting Index. See: Powertrain Management/Computers and Control Systems/Testing and Inspection/Diagnostic Trouble Code Descriptions NO - Go to step 4. 4. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 5. Turn the ignition switch ON (II) and watch the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL). Does the MIL come on and stay on for more than 20 seconds after turning the ignition switch ON (II)? YES - If the MIL always comes on and stays on, go to step 61. But if the MIL sometimes works normally, first check for these problems. An intermittent short in the wire between the ECM (B17) and the Data Link Connector (DLC). - An intermittent short in the wire between the ECM (A18) and the gauge assembly. NO - If the MIL is always off, go to step 6. But if the MIL sometimes works normally, first check for these problems. A loose No.6 (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box. - A loose No.1 (50 A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box. - A loose No.7 (15 A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box. - A loose No.2 (15 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box. - A poor connection at ECM terminal A18. - An intermittent open in the GRN/ORN wire between the ECM (A18) and the gauge assembly. - An intermittent short in the wire between the ECM (C19) and the manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor. - An intermittent short in the wire between the ECM (C28) and the throttle position (TP) sensor, brake booster pressure sensor, fuel tank pressure (FTP) sensor, exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) valve position sensor. - An intermittent short in the wire between the ECM (B6) and the TCM. 6. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 7. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). Is the low oil pressure light on? YES - Go to step 10. NO - Go to step 8. 8. Inspect the No.6 (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box. Is the fuse OK? YES - Go to step 9. NO - Repair short in the wire between the No.6 (7.5 A) fuse and the gauge assembly. Also replace the No.6 (7.5 A) fuse. 9. Inspect the No.1 (50 A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box. Is the fuse OK? YES - Repair open in the wire between the No.1 (50 A) fuse and the gauge assembly. If the wires are OK, test the ignition switch. Page 5078 Throttle Position Sensor: Description and Operation Throttle Position (TP) Sensor The TP sensor is a potentiometer connected to the throttle valve shaft. As the throttle position changes, the sensor varies the signal voltage to the ECM. The TP sensor is not replaceable apart from the throttle body. PGM-FI Main Relay Circuit Troubleshooting Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Testing and Inspection PGM-FI Main Relay Circuit Troubleshooting PGM-FI Main Relay Circuit Troubleshooting 1. Turn the ignition switch OFF, then disconnect the PGM-FI main relay connectors. 2. Check for continuity between body ground and PGM-FI main relay diode 2P connector terminal No.2. Is there continuity? YES - Go to step 3. NO - Repair open in the wire between the PGM-FI main relay and G101. 3. Measure voltage between body ground and PGM-FI main relay (IGP) 4P connector terminal No.2. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 5. NO - Go to step 4. 4. Check for a blown No.7 (15 A) fuse in the underhood fuse/relay box. Is the fuse blown? YES - Repair the short in the wire between the PGM-FI main relay and the No.7 (15 A) fuse. NO - Repair the open in the wire between the PGM-FI main relay and the No.7 (15 A) fuse. Diagrams 185. Idle Stop Switch (CVT) Locations Turn Signal/Hazard Flasher - Component Location Index Page 110 - Taillight relay Five-terminal type: Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 5 terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 4 terminals when power is disconnected. - Fan control relay - Low beam cut relay (Canada) - Windshield wiper intermittent relay Page 9829 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. Page 1585 DIAGNOSTIC WORKSHEET REPAIR PROCEDURE A Page 4507 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. Description and Operation Barometric Pressure Sensor: Description and Operation Barometric Pressure (BARO) Sensor The BARO sensor is inside the ECM. It converts atmospheric pressure into a voltage signal that modifies the basic duration of the fuel injection discharge. Page 8898 Splices Components Ground - "G" Page 9580 Dome Lamp: Service and Repair Ceiling Light/Spotlights Test/Replacement 1. Turn the ceiling light/spotlights switches OFF. 2. Carefully pry off the lens (A) with a small screwdriver. 3. Remove the two screws and the housing (B). 4. Disconnect the 4P connector (C) from the housing. 5. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table. 6. If the continuity is not as specified, check the bulbs. If the bulbs are OK, replace the light. 7. When installing the ceiling/spotlights housing, if the thread in the ET screw is worn out, use an oversized ET screw made specifically for this application. Page 3530 11. Middle of Engine Locations 133. Middle of Floor (CVT) Page 7521 All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416 etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector or by a capital letter (A, B, C etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Connector Views that shows the connector terminals wire colors connector cavity numbers and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints shown on diagram [8] . Except for the DLC (data link connector) disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554 for example means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Page 34 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. Page 2602 Service and Repair Air Dam: Service and Repair Front Air Dam Replacement NOTE: Take care not to scratch the front bumper. 1. Remove the front air dam as shown. 2. Install the front air dam in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - Before installing the air dam, clean the front bumper bonding surface with alcohol, and apply primer. - If the old air dam will be reinstalled, scrape off the double-sided adhesive tape, then clean the air dam surface with alcohol where adhesive tape will be applied. Attach the new double-sided adhesive tape to the air dam. - Before installing the air dam, fold the edge of the adhesive backing from the double-sided adhesive tape. After installing the air dam, carefully pull the adhesive backing away. General Precautions Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Service Precautions General Precautions General Precautions Please read the following precautions carefully before performing the airbag system service. Observe the instructions described or the airbags could accidentally deploy and cause damage or injuries. Except when performing electrical inspections, always turn the ignition switch OFF and disconnect the negative cable from the battery, and wait at least three minutes before beginning work. NOTE: The contents in the memory is not erased even if the ignition switch is turned OFF or the battery cables are disconnected from the battery. Use the replacement parts which are manufactured to the same standards as the original parts and quality. Do not install used SRS parts from another vehicle. Use only new parts when making SRS repairs. Carefully inspect any SRS part before you install it. Do not install any part that shows signs of being dropped or improperly handled, such as dents, cracks or deformation. Before removing any of the SRS parts (including the disconnection of the connectors), always disconnect the SRS connector. Use only a digital multimeter to check the system. If it is not a Honda multimeter, make sure its output is 10 mA (0.01 A) or less when switched to the lowest value in the ohmmeter range. A tester with a higher output could cause accidental deployment and possible injury. Do not put objects on the front passenger's airbag. The original radio has a coded theft protection circuit. Be sure to get the customer's radio code before disconnecting the battery cable. Page 465 ECM Inputs and Outputs at Connector D (16P) Part 2 Page 4393 PGM-FI System - Component Location Index Page 7526 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. Page 3893 ECM Inputs and Outputs at Connector B (25P) Part 1 Page 277 Connector-to-Fuse/Relay Box Index Image 6-4 Page 1493 50. Neutral Position Switch (M/T) Page 1013 In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locater) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: - Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. Page 1552 The road crown gauge measures the amount of road crown. Almost all roads have a crown to help drain water during rainstorms. Use the suction cup to attach the road crown gauge bracket to the vehicle in a vertical position. If necessary, bend the bracket until the gauge is vertical. Once you attach and align the road crown gauge, calibrate the gauge to zero. There are two ways to calibrate the gauge: ^ Park the vehicle on a level surface, such as an alignment rack, and calibrate the gauge by moving the gauge until the ball is on the zero mark. ^ If you do not have a perfectly flat surface, park the vehicle on a reasonably flat surface and note the gauge reading. Turn the vehicle 1800 and, with the tires in the same spot, note the new gauge reading. Then move the gauge half of the difference. For example, if your first reading is +3 and, after moving the vehicle, the gauge reads -1, then the difference is 4 degrees. Position the gauge to read +1. NOTE: You must calibrate the gauge with the same weight in the vehicle that you will use for the test-drive. If you plan to have an assistant help you during the test-drive, calibrate the gauge while both of you are sitting in the vehicle. Page 7981 - The name as it appears on the credit card - Signature (authorized card holder) - Phone number - Authorized charge amount NOTE: If you send in a faulty unit without a check or complete credit card information, the manufacturer may send it back to you unrepaired, or they may repair it and send it back to you C.O.D. ^ Print two copies of the completed Out-of-Warranty/New Replacement component repair form. Keep one copy with the repair order, and include the other copy with the faulty unit when you send it to the manufacturer. 8. Carefully pack the faulty unit and the paperwork in a suitable box, and label the box clearly. You are responsible for lost or damaged units; keep all shipping documents and insurance receipts. 9. Ship the faulty unit to the appropriate manufacturer via UPS. Alpine Electronics of America c/o Standard Radio Engineering Corp. 2012 Abalone Ave., Unit D Torrance, CA 90501 800-421-2284, Ext. 860304 Bose Corporation Automotive Systems Division-Service Framingham, MA 01701-9168 800-231-2673 S3 Clarion Factory Service Center 241 Beaver Rd. Walton, KY 41094 800-347-8667 (You must get authorization from Clarion before shipping units) Fujitsu Ten 19600 5. Vermont Ave. Torrance, CA 90502 800-237-5413 FTH Group Inc. (Kenwood Accessory Parts) 16685 E. Johnson Dr. City of Industry, CA 91745 626-333-2435 (You must get an RMA authorization number from www.fthgroupinc.com; from the home page, select Consumer Products) Komtec Electronics (Panasonic) 6590 Darin Way Cypress, CA 90630 714-903-3300 (Make sure your check is made out to Komtec) * Pioneer Electronics Service, Inc. 1925 E. Dominguez St. Long Beach, CA 90801 800-553-3756* Visteon c/o Model Electronics 615 E. Crescent Ave. Page 9143 Seat Belt Reminder Lamp: Electrical Diagrams Lights-on, Key-in, And Seat Belt Reminders Image 73 Page 7960 ^ Click on Returns and Surplus. ^ Click on Audio Core Return. ^ Select the appropriate VIN to view the Update Core Return information screen. ^ Review the form, then print out a copy by clicking on the printer icon. 14. Place the printed copies of the Warranty Audio/Navigation/RES Unit Order form and the Core Return Update Acknowledgement into the core return box with the failed audio/navigation/RES unit core. NOTE: If you return a failed audio/navigation/RES core without the proper forms, your warranty claim will be debited and the core will be sent back to your dealership. 15. Ship the failed audio/navigation/RES unit core to the appropriate location by using the prepaid shipping label that came with the remanufactured audio/navigation/RES unit. NOTE: If the failed audio/navigation/RES unit core is not received at the specified address within 30 days from the order date of the remanufactured audio/navigation/RES unit, your warranty claim will be debited, and your dealership will be issued a core loss charge ranging between $800 and $2,500. If you know that you cannot return the core within 30 days, call the Remanufactured Parts Dealer Service Group, and ask for an extension. ^ If you call for an extension and the core is not received within 60 days from the order date, you will be debited the full amount of the warranty claim. ^ If you do not call for an extension, and the core is received between 31 and 60 days from the order date of the remanufactured audio/navigation/RES unit, a $250 late core charge will be assessed. WARRANTY AUDIO ORDER PROGRAM FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS Here is a list of answers to the most frequently asked questions about the warranty audio order program: Question: When do I use the warranty audio order program? Answer: Use the program when you are replacing an audio/navigation/RES unit under warranty (including goodwill) that has an internal failure. NOTE: The customer's media (CD, CD magazine, DVD, DVD-A, cassette tape, etc.) is removed by the supplier at tear down and inspection of the failed unit, and mailed to your dealership. Any failed audio/navigation/RES unit core that is returned disassembled is considered an unusable core, and your dealership will be issued a core loss charge ranging between $800 and $2,500. Remanufactured audio/navigation/RES units are not available for non-warranty repairs. New components should be used to repair new, unsold vehicles. A new component may be used to repair a customer's vehicle only if the remanufactured component is currently unavailable from American Honda. Your DPSM must authorize ordering a new component. Question: How do I order a remanufactured audio/navigation/RES unit? Answer: For a warranty replacement, use the ordering information IN WARRANTY EXCHANGE. For goodwill repair, contact your DPSM. For a non-warranty repair, see OUT-OF-WARRANTY REPAIR. Question: Who do I call for questions on the Warranty Audio Order Program? Answer: For administrative questions, call the Remanufactured Parts Dealer Service Group. Page 7356 Control Assembly: Service and Repair Manual Control Panel 1. Remove the instrument panel together with the heater control panel. 2. Remove the self-tapping screws and the heater control panel (A) from the instrument panel (B). 3. Install in the reverse order of removal, and note these items. - Be sure to install the short black self-tapping screw in the position shown. If a longer screw is used, it will damage the instrument panel. - After installation, make sure the heater control panel works properly. 4. Run the self-diagnosis function to confirm that there are no problems in the system. Page 4319 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. Page 10006 Diodes How to Identify Wiring Color-Coded Insulation Wire Color Page 7118 Wire Color Coding Distinct Of Circuit By Wire Base Color All wires have color-coded insulation. Wires belonging to a system's main harness will have a single color. Wires belonging to a system's sub-circuits will have a colored stripe. Striped wires use the codes found in the chart to show wire size and colors. Abbreviations are used to indicate wire color within a circuit diagram. Wire Color Abbreviations The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics: WHT................................... White YEL................................... Yellow BLK................................... Black BLU................................... Blue GRN................................... Green RED................................... Red ORN................................... Orange PNK................................... Pink BRN................................... Brown GRY................................... Gray PUR................................... Purple LT BLU................................... Light Blue LT GRN................................... Light Green The wire insulation has one color or one color with another color stripe. The second color is the stripe. How to Identify Connector Terminals How to Identify Connector Terminals Page 9594 Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow from power at the top of the diagram to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another for example is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter Information Technical Service Bulletin # 98-011 Date: 040220 Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter Information 98-011 February 20, 2004 Applies To: ALL Keyless Remote Transmitter Information (Supersedes 98-011, dated February 6, 2003) Updated information is shown by asterisks and a black bar. This service bulletin gives you information about keyless remote transmitters for most Honda vehicles. Each procedure describes transmitter programming (if applicable), transmitter ordering, and transmitter batteries. A remote transmitter quick reference guide is shown below. Locations Heated Glass Element Relay: Locations Engine Compartment View Page 5351 8. Move the release fork (A) right and left to make sure that it fits properly against the release bearing (B) and that the release bearing slides smoothly. Page 5032 5. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). Measure voltage between body ground and PGM-FI main relay (fuel pump) 4P connector terminal No.2, and between PGM-FI main relay (IGP) 4P connector terminal No.4. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 7. NO - Go to step 6. 6. Check for a blown No.2 (15 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box. Is the fuse blown? YES - Repair the short in the wire between PGM-FI main relay and the No.2 fuse. NO - Repair the open in the wire between the PGM-FI main relay and the No.2 (15 A) fuse. 7. Turn the ignition switch OFF, and disconnect ECM connector A (32P). 8. Check for continuity between PGM-FI main relay (fuel pump) 4P connector terminal No.3 and ECM connector terminal A15. Is there continuity? YES - Go to step 9. NO - Repair open in the wire between the PGM-FI main relay and the ECM (A15). 9. Reconnect ECM connector A (32P) and the PGM-FI main relay connectors. Page 5863 7. Remove the U-clip (A), and remove the parking brake lever (B) from the rear side shoe (C). Reassembly 1. Install the parking brake lever (A) on the rear brake shoe (B), and secure it with a new U-clip (C). Pinch the U-clip securely to prevent it from coming off. 2. Apply Molykote 44 MA to the backside edges of the brake shoes where shown. Wipe off any excess. Do not get grease on the brake linings. 3. Install the self-adjuster (C) and self-adjuster spring (D) on the front side brake shoe (E). 4. Connect the parking brake cable to the rear side brake shoe (F), and assemble the brake shoes with the clevis (A), adjuster bolt (G), and clevis (B). 5. Install the shoes on the backing plate, fitting the top of the brake shoes on the wheel cylinder pistons and the bottom of the brake shoes on the locating plate. Locations 35. Left Rear of Engine Compartment Testing and Inspection Mini ISO Relay: Testing and Inspection Normally-Open Type A Fuel Cut/PGM-FI Main - Relay 1. Turn the battery module switch OFF, and measure the voltage. 2. Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No.3 and No.4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals when power is disconnected. Normally-Open Type B EPS Motor Relay 1. Turn the battery module switch OFF, and measure the voltage. 2. Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No.1 and No.3 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No.2 and No.4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No.1 and No.3 terminals when power is disconnected. Page 1821 In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locater) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: - Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. Page 217 Relay And Control Unit Locations - Dashboard Page 9667 Low Beam Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relay Test Five-terminal type: Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 5 terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 4 terminals when power is disconnected. - Fan control relay - Low beam cut relay (Canada) - Windshield wiper intermittent relay Component Locations Power Door Locks - Component Location Index Page 8250 Power Trunk / Liftgate Lock Switch: Testing and Inspection Hatch Opener Switch Test 1. Open the hatch and remove the hatch trim panel. 2. Disconnect the 2P connector (A) from the hatch opener switch. 3. Check for continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals. - With the switch lever pulled, there should be continuity. - With the switch lever released, there should be no continuity. 4. If the continuity check is not as specified, replace the switch. Page 9196 Diodes How to Identify Wiring Color-Coded Insulation Wire Color Page 4142 DTC P0750 thru P0977 Page 556 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: - Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest OHMS" range. Page 10089 48. Left Side of Steering Column Page 5797 Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow from power at the top of the diagram to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another for example is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors Page 9250 Splices Components Ground - "G" Page 456 Engine Control Module: Connector Views 137. MPI Module Page 7853 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 8812 Cigarette Lighter: Diagnostic Aids Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Page 8658 First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 1847 39. Upper Left Kick Panel Area Page 5827 6. Install the pad retainers (A). 7. Apply Dow Corning Molykote M77 grease to both sides of the pad shim (A), the back of the pads (B) and other areas indicated by the arrows. Wipe excess grease off the shim. Contaminated brake discs or pads reduce stopping ability. Keep grease off the discs and pads. 8. Install the brake pads and pad shim correctly. Install the pad with the wear indicator (C) on the inside. If you are reusing the pads, always reinstall the brake pads in their original positions to prevent a momentary loss of braking efficiency. 9. Push in the piston (A) so the caliper will fit over the pads. Make sure the piston boot is in position to prevent damaging it when pivoting the caliper down. 10. Pivot the caliper down into position. Being careful not to damage the pin boot, install the bolt (B), and tighten it to the specified torque. 11. Install the brake hose bracket onto the damper. 12. Press the brake pedal several times to make sure the brakes work, then test-drive. NOTE: Engagement of the brake may require a greater pedal stroke immediately after the brake pads have been replaced as a set. Several applications of the brake pedal will restore the normal pedal stroke. 13. After installation, check for leaks at hose and line joints or connections, and retighten if necessary. Page 8842 - Refer to the scrapping procedures for disposal of the damaged airbag. Page 1593 Alignment: Specifications Trim Height Honda Motor Company does not list ride height/trim height specifications. Locations Crankshaft Position Sensor: Locations PGM-FI System - Component Location Index Page 2500 Heating/Cooling Unit View Page 6453 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 4998 Wires Page 873 Braking Sensor/Switch: Description and Operation Brake pedal position Switch The brake pedal position switch signals the ECM when the brake pedal is pressed. Page 9181 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Page 3127 DTC P1861 thru P2238 Page 270 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 2012 Terminals - "T" Shielding Switches Fuses Page 7278 Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution diagram set to get a more detailed picture of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Page 7612 Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Service Precautions Wiring Precautions Wiring Precautions SRS wiring can be identified by special yellow outer covering (except the SRS indicator light circuit). Never attempt to modify, splice, or repair SRS wiring. If there is an open or damage in SRS wiring, replace the harness. Be sure to install the harness wires so that they are not pinched, or interfere with other parts. Make sure all SRS ground locations are clean, and grounds are securely fastened for optimum metal-to-metal contact. Poor grounding can cause intermittent problems that are difficult to diagnose. Page 4461 95. VSS Diagram Information and Instructions Radio/Stereo: Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System Terminal Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown below is #6. Alignment Alignment: Specifications Alignment Wheel alignment Camber Front .................................................................................................................................................... ........................................................ 0°00' ± 1° Rear ........................................................................... ................................................................................................................................ -1°00' ± 1° Caster Front .................................................................................................................................................... ........................................................ 2°00' ± 1° Total toe Front .................................................................................................................................................... ............................. 0 ± 2 mm (0 ± 0.08 inch) Rear ............................................................................... ................................................................................................. 3 mm ± 3 mm (0.12 ± 0.12) Front wheel turning angle Inside wheel ......................................................................................................................................... ...................................................... 40°00' ± 2° Outside wheel ............................................................ ................................................................................................................... 33°00' (Reference) Page 5033 10. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and measure voltage between ECM connector terminals B1 and B20, and between B9 and B20. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 11. NO - Check for an open in the wires between the PGM-FI main relay and the ECM (B1, B9). If the wires are OK, replace the PGM-FI main relay. 11. Turn the ignition switch OFF, then ON (II) again, and measure voltage between ECM connector terminals A15 and B2 within the first two seconds after the ignition switch is turned ON (II). Is there 1.0 V or less? YES - The PGM-FI main relay may be faulty. NO - Update the ECM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM, replace the original ECM. Page 9038 Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution diagram set to get a more detailed picture of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Page 6454 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Page 4486 Wire Color Coding Distinct Of Circuit By Wire Base Color All wires have color-coded insulation. Wires belonging to a system's main harness will have a single color. Wires belonging to a system's sub-circuits will have a colored stripe. Striped wires use the codes found in the chart to show wire size and colors. Abbreviations are used to indicate wire color within a circuit diagram. Wire Color Abbreviations The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics: WHT................................... White YEL................................... Yellow BLK................................... Black BLU................................... Blue GRN................................... Green RED................................... Red ORN................................... Orange PNK................................... Pink BRN................................... Brown GRY................................... Gray PUR................................... Purple LT BLU................................... Light Blue LT GRN................................... Light Green The wire insulation has one color or one color with another color stripe. The second color is the stripe. How to Identify Connector Terminals How to Identify Connector Terminals Hybrid System - IMA Indicator ON/DTC's P1447/P1449 Battery Condition Monitor: All Technical Service Bulletins Hybrid System - IMA Indicator ON/DTC's P1447/P1449 04-028 March 16, 2011 Applies To: 2000-04 Insight - ALL IMA System Indicator On With IMA DTC 77 (P1447) or DTC 78 (P1449) (Supersedes 04-028, dated April 30, 2010, to revise the information marked by the black bars and asterisks) *REVISION SUMMARY Under WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION, some operation number and flat rate time information was changed.* PROBLEM The IMA system indicator comes on and IMA DTC 77 (P1447) (battery module deterioration) or DTC 78 (P1449) (battery module deterioration) is set. CORRECTIVE ACTION Replace the battery module. Inspect the motor control module (MCM) and the battery condition monitor (BCM) to determine if they also need to be replaced. PARTS INFORMATION WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION The normal warranty applies. NOTE: IMA components (battery module, battery condition monitor, and motor control module) are covered under warranty for 8 years or 80,000 miles, whichever comes first. Page 4898 Connectors - "C" Service and Repair Hood Insulator / Pad: Service and Repair Hood Insulator Replacement NOTE: - Take care not to scratch the hood. - Use a clip remover to remove the clips. 1. Remove the hood insulator as shown. 2. Install the insulator in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - Check for damaged or stress-whitened clips, and replace them with new ones. - Push the clips into place securely. - Make sure the windshield washer tubes are connected properly. Page 6595 Multiple Junction Connector: Service and Repair How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough Page 3524 94. TP Sensor Page 5105 Crankshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation Camshaft Position (CMP) A and B (Top Dead Center (TDC) 1 and 2), and Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensors The CMPA (TDC 1) and CMPB (TDC 2) sensors detect the position of the No.1 cylinder as a reference for sequential fuel injection to each cylinder. The CKP sensor detects engine speed and determines ignition timing and timing for fuel injection of each cylinder. Page 5110 88. Ignition Coils Air Fuel (A/F) Ratio Sensor Oxygen Sensor: Description and Operation Air Fuel (A/F) Ratio Sensor Air Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor The A/F Sensor operates over a wide air/fuel range. The A/F Sensor is installed in the exhaust manifold. Page 4592 Evaporative Check Valve: Description and Operation EVAP Two-Way Valve The EVAP two way valve is installed between the fuel tank and the EVAP canister line. The EVAP two way valve sends fuel vapor to the EVAP canister corresponding to the pressure inside the fuel tank and vacuum, and returns it to in the fuel tank. The EVAP bypass solenoid valve opens to bypass the two way valve during the EVAP leak check. Page 10123 All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416 etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector or by a capital letter (A, B, C etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Connector Views that shows the connector terminals wire colors connector cavity numbers and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints shown on diagram [8] . Except for the DLC (data link connector) disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554 for example means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Page 4037 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: Diagram Information and Instructions Auxiliary Power Outlet: Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System Terminal Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown below is #6. Locations High/Low Speed Battery Module Fan Control Relay: Locations 96. Left Rear Side of PCU 100. Left Front Side of Battery Module Page 6445 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 8242 Power Trunk / Liftgate Lock Actuator: Testing and Inspection Hatch Opener Actuator Test Hatch Opener Actuator Test 1. Open the hatch and remove the rear trim panel. 2. Disconnect the 2P connector (A) from the hatch opener actuator. 3. Check actuator operation by connecting terminal No. 2 to body ground, and momentarily apply battery voltage to terminal No. 1. The actuator should unlock. 4. If the operation check is not as specified, replace the actuator. Page 9572 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. Page 9387 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 4250 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 6483 Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution diagram set to get a more detailed picture of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Page 814 Wire Color Abbreviations Fuel Pump/Fuel Gauge Sending Unit Replacement Fuel Gauge Sender: Service and Repair Fuel Pump/Fuel Gauge Sending Unit Replacement Fuel Pump/Fuel Gauge Sending Unit Replacement Special Tools Required Adjustable ring wrench 07XAA-001010A M/T model: 1. Remove the fuel tank. 2. Disconnect the quick-connect fittings from the fuel pump. 3. Using the tool, loosen the fuel tank unit locknut (A). 4. Remove the bracket (A), the fuel filter (B), the fuel tank unit (C), the case (D), and the wire harness (E). 5. When connecting the fuel pump, make sure the connection is secure and the suction filter (F) is firmly connected to the fuel pump (G). 6. Install the part in the reverse order of removal with a new base gasket, then check these items: - When connecting the wire harness, make sure the connection is secure and the connector (H) is firmly locked into the place. - Do not push the lower part of the suction filter. - When installing the fuel gauge sending unit, make sure the connection is secure and the connector is firmly locked into place. Be careful not to bend or twist it excessively. - When installing the fuel pump assembly, align the marks (J) on the fuel tank (K) and the fuel pump assembly (L). CVT model: 1. Remove the fuel tank. 2. Disconnect the quick-connect fittings from the fuel pump. Page 9673 Horn Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relay Test Normally-open type A: 1. Turn the battery module switch OFF, and measure the voltage. 2. Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is disconnected. A/C compressor clutch relay - Air fuel ratio sensor relay - Condenser fan relay - Daytime running lights relay (Canada) - Headlight relay 1 - Headlight relay 2 - High speed battery module fan control relay - High speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - High voltage conductor control relay - Horn relay - Ignition hold relay - Low speed battery module fan control relay - Low speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - Power window relay - Radiator fan relay - Rear window defogger relay - Reverse relay - Starter cut relay Page 2615 Disclaimer Page 440 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 7845 Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution diagram set to get a more detailed picture of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Page 8337 Front Fender Liner: Service and Repair Front Inner Fender Replacement Front Inner Fender Replacement NOTE: Take care not to scratch the body. 1. Remove the front inner fender as shown. 2. Install the front inner fender in the reverse order of removal, and check for damaged or stress-whitened clips, and replace them with new ones. Emissions/Engine Controls - MIL ON/DTC P1457 (EVAP) Engine Control Module: Customer Interest Emissions/Engine Controls - MIL ON/DTC P1457 (EVAP) 03-001 January 28, 2003 Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED MIL Comes On With DTC P1457: EVAP Bypass Solenoid Valve Failure SYMPTOM The MIL is on, and DTC P1457 [leak detected in EVAP control system (EVAP control canister system)] is set. PROBABLE CAUSE The EVAP bypass solenoid valve can fail due to corrosion. The solenoid valve may get water inside. If the water contains road salt, the solenoid windings could corrode, causing the valve to fail. In a few rare instances, the corrosion could be severe enough to cause an internal short in the solenoid valve, which could damage the ECM/PCM. If this happens, both the bypass solenoid valve and the ECM/PCM would need to be replaced. Vehicles driven in the Northeastern part of the U.S. are more likely to have this problem because of the salting of roads during the winter months. Vehicles driven where salt is not used on the roads are much less likely to have this problem. VEHICLES AFFECTED 1998-02 Accord 1998-00 Civic 1998-01 CR-V 2000-02 Insight 1999-03 Odyssey 2003 Pilot 2000-03 S2000 CORRECTIVE ACTION Test and, if necessary, replace the EVAP bypass solenoid valve. Replace the ECM/PCM if needed. PARTS INFORMATION Refer to the parts catalog for the appropriate part number and Honda code. WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Failed Part: EVAP Bypass Solenoid Valve: Page 9415 Terminals - "T" Shielding Switches Fuses Service and Repair Front Strut / Shock Tower: Service and Repair Locations Intake Air System - Component Location Index Locations 2. Right Front Side of Engine Compartment Diagram Information and Instructions Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System Terminal Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown below is #6. Page 6310 First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Air Bag Disarming and Arming Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Service and Repair Air Bag Disarming and Arming General Precautions Please read the following precautions carefully before performing the airbag system service. Observe the instructions described or the airbags could accidentally deploy and cause damage or injuries. Except when performing electrical inspections, always turn the ignition switch OFF and disconnect the negative cable from the battery, and wait at least three minutes before beginning work. NOTE: The contents in the memory is not erased even if the ignition switch is turned OFF or the battery cables are disconnected from the battery. Use the replacement parts which are manufactured to the same standards as the original parts and quality. Do not install used SRS parts from another vehicle. Use only new parts when making SRS repairs. Carefully inspect any SRS part before you install it. Do not install any part that shows signs of being dropped or improperly handled, such as dents, cracks or deformation. Before removing any of the SRS parts (including the disconnection of the connectors), always disconnect the SRS connector. Use only a digital multimeter to check the system. If it is not a Honda multimeter, make sure its output is 10 mA (0.01 A) or less when switched to the lowest value in the ohmmeter range. A tester with a higher output could cause accidental deployment and possible injury. Do not put objects on the front passenger's airbag. The original radio has a coded theft protection circuit. Be sure to get the customer's radio code before disconnecting the battery cable. Hybrid System - IMA Indicator ON/DTC's P1447/P1449 Hybrid Power Control Module: Customer Interest Hybrid System - IMA Indicator ON/DTC's P1447/P1449 04-028 March 16, 2011 Applies To: 2000-04 Insight - ALL IMA System Indicator On With IMA DTC 77 (P1447) or DTC 78 (P1449) (Supersedes 04-028, dated April 30, 2010, to revise the information marked by the black bars and asterisks) *REVISION SUMMARY Under WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION, some operation number and flat rate time information was changed.* PROBLEM The IMA system indicator comes on and IMA DTC 77 (P1447) (battery module deterioration) or DTC 78 (P1449) (battery module deterioration) is set. CORRECTIVE ACTION Replace the battery module. Inspect the motor control module (MCM) and the battery condition monitor (BCM) to determine if they also need to be replaced. PARTS INFORMATION WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION The normal warranty applies. NOTE: IMA components (battery module, battery condition monitor, and motor control module) are covered under warranty for 8 years or 80,000 miles, whichever comes first. Page 9484 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. Page 861 Page 7590 Solar Sensor: Service and Repair Sunlight Sensor Replacement 1. Remove the sunlight sensor from the dashboard, then disconnect the 2P connector. Be careful not to damage the sensor or the dashboard. 2. Install the sensor in the reverse order of removal. Page 1963 5. Lower the vehicle onto the stands. Page 8825 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. Page 8579 43. Under Left Side of Dash (Honda Accessory) Page 7179 72. Under Right Side of Dash Page 10003 Connectors - "C" Hybrid System - IMA Indicator ON/DTC's P1447/P1449 Battery Control Module: Customer Interest Hybrid System - IMA Indicator ON/DTC's P1447/P1449 04-028 March 16, 2011 Applies To: 2000-04 Insight - ALL IMA System Indicator On With IMA DTC 77 (P1447) or DTC 78 (P1449) (Supersedes 04-028, dated April 30, 2010, to revise the information marked by the black bars and asterisks) *REVISION SUMMARY Under WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION, some operation number and flat rate time information was changed.* PROBLEM The IMA system indicator comes on and IMA DTC 77 (P1447) (battery module deterioration) or DTC 78 (P1449) (battery module deterioration) is set. CORRECTIVE ACTION Replace the battery module. Inspect the motor control module (MCM) and the battery condition monitor (BCM) to determine if they also need to be replaced. PARTS INFORMATION WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION The normal warranty applies. NOTE: IMA components (battery module, battery condition monitor, and motor control module) are covered under warranty for 8 years or 80,000 miles, whichever comes first. Page 4766 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. Service and Repair Quarter Window Glass: Service and Repair Quarter Glass Replacement NOTE: Familiarize yourself with the glass replacement process . Parts Removal First remove these items: - Quarter trim panel - Quarter glass trim NOTE: Replace the quarter glass trim with a new one. Cutting Positions Slip the piano wire through the adhesive at each position as shown, and pull it back as indicated by the arrows. Page 6911 All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416 etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector or by a capital letter (A, B, C etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Connector Views that shows the connector terminals wire colors connector cavity numbers and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints shown on diagram [8] . Except for the DLC (data link connector) disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554 for example means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Page 8754 Audible Warning Device: Electrical Diagrams Lights-on, Key-in, And Seat Belt Reminders Image 73 Page 1280 31. Left Front Side of Engine Compartment Page 6679 Relay Box: Diagnostic Aids Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Page 10029 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 764 111. Rear Window Defogger, Fuel Cut, Radiator Fan Main (Climate Control) And Intermittent Wiper Relays Specifications Locations Camshaft Position Sensor: Locations PGM-FI System - Component Location Index Page 5367 Shift Interlock Solenoid: Diagrams 186. Inhibitor Solenoid (CVT) 187. Shift Lock Solenoid (CVT) Page 2291 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: - Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest OHMS" range. Page 7031 2. Remove the cotter pin (A) from the tie-rod end ball joint, and remove the nut (B). 3. Remove the tie-rod end ball joint from the damper using the special tool. 4. Remove the flange nut (A) while holding the joint pin (B) with a hex wrench (C), and disconnect the stabilizer link (D) from the damper. 5. Remove the bolts (A), and remove the wheel sensor harness bracket (B) and brake hose bracket (C) from the damper. Do not disconnect the wheel sensor connector. 6. Remove the damper pinch bolts (D) while holding the nuts (E). Page 9127 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 8947 - Do not fold over the lower part of the suction filter (C). - When installing the fuel gauge sending unit (A), make sure the connection is secure and the connector is firmly locked into place. Be careful not to bend or twist it excessively. Page 6634 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 6045 9. Measure voltage between ECM connector terminals B16 and B20. Is there battery voltage? YES - Replace the neutral position switch. NO - Go to step 10. 10. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 11. Disconnect ECM connector B (25P). 12. Check for continuity between ECM connector terminal B16 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Repair short in the wire between the ECM (B16) and the neutral position switch. NO - Update the ECM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM, replace the original ECM. 13. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 14. Disconnect the neutral position switch 2P connector. 15. Check for continuity between neutral position switch 2P connector terminals No.1 and No.2 with the transmission in 1st gear. Is there continuity? YES - Go to step 15. Page 7906 The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery. 94-95 Accord, Civic, Del SOL, Prelude & 95 Odyssey 1994-95 Accord with dealer-installed security system 1994-95 Civic with dealer-installed security system 1994-95 del Sol with dealer-installed security system 1994-95 Prelude with dealer-installed security system 1995 Odyssey with dealer-installed security system Programming the Transmitter NOTES: ^ The system uses a stacking-type memory that accepts up to four transmitters. If you program a fifth transmitter, the system's memory for the first transmitter is pushed out, and it will no longer work. ^ To clear a lost or stolen transmitter from the system's memory, program a transmitter four times. This will remove the missing transmitter from memory, since only four transmitter codes can be accepted. ^ Another way to clear a lost or stolen transmitter is to erase all transmitter codes, and then reprogram them. To do this, refer to the security system owner's manual. 1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 2. Press and hold the Valet-Disarm button on the dashboard lower cover. (Continue to hold the button during this procedure, or programming will be cancelled.) The LED on the upper steering column cover flashes when the system is in programming mode. 3. Press the top button on the transmitter. Check that the parking lights flash to confirm that the transmitter's code was accepted. 4. Press the top button on each of the remaining transmitters. Check that the parking lights flash after each transmitter code is accepted. 5. Release the Valet-Disarm button to exit the programming mode. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda using normal parts ordering procedures. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery. 96-98 Civic EX & Except EX, Civic 1996-98 Civic EX with factory-installed keyless entry system 1996-98 Civic (except EX) with dealer-installed keyless entry system 1996-98 Civic with dealer-installed security system Page 3986 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. Page 1275 121. EGR Valve And EGR Valve Position Sensor Page 8814 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: - Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest OHMS" range. Service and Repair Maintenance Required Lamp/Indicator: Service and Repair To Reset the MAINT REQD Indicator: 1. Turn off engine. 2. Press and hold the trip button in the instrument panel, then turn the ignition switch ON (II). 3. Hold the button until the indicator resets (approximately ten seconds.) Page 3871 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: - Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest OHMS" range. Page 8873 First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 3201 ECM Inputs and Outputs at Connector D (16P) Part 1 Page 7132 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 9942 Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow from power at the top of the diagram to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another for example is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors Page 9202 Door Switch: Diagnostic Aids Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Page 6956 Page 3354 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Page 9519 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: - Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest OHMS" range. Page 6917 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 8375 First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 523 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 9061 Lights-on,key-in,and Seat Belt Reminders Image 73-1 Page 3089 ^ If you still cannot hear the solenoid valve click or feel it tap when activated, continue with normal troubleshooting. 15. Insight only: Disconnect the PGM Tester, and return the vehicle to your customer. 16. All other affected models: Use the PGM Tester to run the EVAP system function test (see S/B 02-007, EVAP System Function Testing and Diagnostics With the PGM Tester). ^ If the EVAP system passes the function test, disconnect the PGM Tester, and return the vehicle to your customer. ^ If the EVAP system fails the function test, continue with normal troubleshooting. Disclaimer Page 816 Connectors - "C" Page 8033 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 10343 8. Reinstall the wiper motor connector retaining clip in the motor mounting bracket. 9. Route the sub-harness around the motor mounting bracket, then connect it to the hatch harness. 10. Attach the sub-harness ground lead to the motor mounting bracket. 11. Cover the sub-harness with the self-adhesive foam padding from the kit. 12. Remove the grounding clip from the wiper motor bracket mount. Torque the bolt to 9.8 Nm (7.2 lb-ft). 13. Center-punch a completion mark above the fourth character (Z) of the engine compartment VIN. Page 2865 Motor Control Module (MCM): Description and Operation MDM (Motor Driver Module) The MDM consists of the MPI module, voltage converter module, capacitor, and the U/V/W phase motor current sensors. The voltage converter acts as a preamplifier for the IGBTs. The IGBTs are used to transfer electrical energy to the motor from the 144 V battery and vice versa. The IGBTs are activated by the MCM based on the amount of assist/regeneration is needed. The voltage converter module monitors voltage and temperature of the MDM, and sends this information to the MCM. Page 10241 15. Align the molding lip end (A) and the edge of the new rear window upper seal (B) on each side, as shown, and attach the seal with the adhesive tape (C) and the adhesive tape (D) to the inside face of the upper portion of the rear window molding (E). 16. Check that the molding and seal are not wrinkled or lifted away. 17. Reinstall the upper rear window onto the body. Page 5896 Brake Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch: Adjustments For information regarding the Adjustment of this component and the system that it is a part of, please refer to Brake Pedal Assy; Adjustments. General Precautions Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Service Precautions General Precautions General Precautions Please read the following precautions carefully before performing the airbag system service. Observe the instructions described or the airbags could accidentally deploy and cause damage or injuries. Except when performing electrical inspections, always turn the ignition switch OFF and disconnect the negative cable from the battery, and wait at least three minutes before beginning work. NOTE: The contents in the memory is not erased even if the ignition switch is turned OFF or the battery cables are disconnected from the battery. Use the replacement parts which are manufactured to the same standards as the original parts and quality. Do not install used SRS parts from another vehicle. Use only new parts when making SRS repairs. Carefully inspect any SRS part before you install it. Do not install any part that shows signs of being dropped or improperly handled, such as dents, cracks or deformation. Before removing any of the SRS parts (including the disconnection of the connectors), always disconnect the SRS connector. Use only a digital multimeter to check the system. If it is not a Honda multimeter, make sure its output is 10 mA (0.01 A) or less when switched to the lowest value in the ohmmeter range. A tester with a higher output could cause accidental deployment and possible injury. Do not put objects on the front passenger's airbag. The original radio has a coded theft protection circuit. Be sure to get the customer's radio code before disconnecting the battery cable. Page 604 All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416 etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector or by a capital letter (A, B, C etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Connector Views that shows the connector terminals wire colors connector cavity numbers and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints shown on diagram [8] . Except for the DLC (data link connector) disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554 for example means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Page 8905 Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution diagram set to get a more detailed picture of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Page 2980 4. Remove the switch cover from the battery module, then remove the locking cover from the battery module switch. 5. Turn off the battery module switch. Reinstall the locking cover on the switch, and remove the 5 mm bolt on the side of the switch. 6. Wait at least 5 minutes to allow the capacitors to discharge. 7. Remove the three clips from the middle bulkhead carpet. 8. Remove the under-cover (two bolts, two clips, and three screw clips). Locations Gauges - Component Location Index Page 444 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 10044 - Taillight relay Page 6746 12. Test-drive your customer¡C■s vehicle on the same road you used earlier. - If the drift is now within spec, swap the tires back to the donor vehicle one at a time, and test-drive your customer¡C■s vehicle on the same road you used earlier. Do this until the drift comes back. Replace the bad tire(s), then return the vehicle to your customer. - If the drift is still out of spec using the donor vehicle tires, contact Tech Line for further action. Specifications Page 5034 Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Testing and Inspection PGM-FI Main Relay Test PGM-FI Main Relay Test Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No.3 and No.4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals when power is disconnected. Page 9233 - Do not fold over the lower part of the suction filter (C). - When installing the fuel gauge sending unit (A), make sure the connection is secure and the connector is firmly locked into place. Be careful not to bend or twist it excessively. Hatch Lock Actuator/Latch Switch/Unlock Switch Test Power Door Lock Switch: Testing and Inspection Hatch Lock Actuator/Latch Switch/Unlock Switch Test Hatch Lock Actuator/Latch Switch/Unlock Switch Test 1. Open the hatch and remove the rear trim panel. 2. Disconnect the 6P connector (A) from the hatch lock actuator (B). Actuator Test: 3. Check actuator operation by connecting battery power and grounding according to the table. To prevent damage to the actuator, apply battery voltage only momentarily. Latch Switch Test: 4. Check for continuity between terminal No. 3 and terminal No. 6. - With the hatch open, there should be continuity. - With the hatch closed, there should be no continuity. Unlock Switch Test: 5. Check for continuity between terminal No. 1 and terminal No. 2. - With the hatch unlocked, there should be continuity. - With the hatch locked, there should be no continuity. 6. If the tests don't work as specified, replace the hatch latch assembly. Page 8872 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. Page 839 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. Page 3838 DTC P1486 thru P1585 Page 1848 Relay Box: Connector Locations Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box Page 2631 Page 8459 1997 Accord SE With Factory-Installed Security System 1997 Accord SE with factory-installed security system Programming the Transmitter NOTES: ^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased. ^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the programming mode. ^ You must complete steps 1-6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from exiting the programming mode. 1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter can be used for this step.) 3. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 4. Repeat steps 1, 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2. 5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode. 7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted the transmitter's code. 5. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda using normal parts ordering procedures. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery. 98-02 Accord EX & 00-02 Accord SE 1998-02 Accord EX with factory-installed security system 2000 and 2002 Accord SE with factory-installed security system Page 237 Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box Page 1064 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. Page 1544 6. Test-drive the vehicle to make sure it no longer pulls. If the steering wheel is now off-center by more than 2 mm, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE C. 7. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC. NOTE: Enter each reading in decimal degrees. Example 30' = 0.50. REPAIR PROCEDURE C 1. Make sure the steering wheel is centered. ^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the right until it stops. ^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left, and count the number of revolutions until it stops. ^ Divide the number of revolutions in half, and turn the steering wheel until it is centered. For example, if it takes four revolutions of the steering wheel to go from lock to lock, then two turns is centered. ^ If the steering wheel is off-center by a large amount (20 mm or more), it may not be centered on the steering column shaft. Reinstall the steering wheel before going to step 2. 2. Place the vehicle on a lift, turn the steering wheel until it is centered, and then raise the vehicle. 3. Adjust the tie-rods. Use your measurements from question 13 of the test-drive to make your adjustment. Service and Repair Suspension Travel Bumper: Service and Repair Spring/Bump Stop Replacement NOTE: Bolts and nuts with the [star] mark are special corrosion-resistant Dacro fasteners. Use the same type if replacement is necessary. 1. Raise the rear of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper location. Remove the fender skirts and rear wheels on the right and left side of the vehicle. 2. Disconnect the wheel sensor connectors (A), and remove the wheel sensor brackets (B) and the brake hose brackets (C), on the right and left side. 3. Place a jack under each end of the rear axle beam. 4. Remove the flange bolts (A) at the bottom of the dampers on the right and left side. Page 5729 8. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). Move the shift lever through all gear positions, and check the transmission range switch synchronization with the A/T gear position indicator. 9. Check that the engine can start in the [P] and [N] positions, and cannot start in any other shift lever position. 10. Check that the back-up lights come on when the shift lever is in the [R] position. 11. Allow the wheels to rotate freely, then start the engine, and check the shift lever operation. Page 4053 Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Testing and Inspection PGM-FI Main Relay Test PGM-FI Main Relay Test Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No.3 and No.4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals when power is disconnected. Page 10011 Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution diagram set to get a more detailed picture of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Page 9552 Cavity Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity / terminal shown is # 6. Circuit Schematics Page 7419 Heating/Cooling Unit View Page 2849 4. Remove the switch cover from the battery module, then remove the locking cover from the battery module switch. 5. Turn off the battery module switch. Reinstall the locking cover on the switch, and remove the 5 mm bolt on the side of the switch. 6. Wait at least 5 minutes to allow the capacitors to discharge. 7. Remove the three clips from the middle bulkhead carpet. 8. Remove the under-cover (two bolts, two clips, and three screw clips). Page 71 Power Door Lock Control Module: Testing and Inspection Power Door Locks Control Unit Input Test 1. Remove the driver's pocket. 2. Disconnect the 18P connector (B) from the keyless door lock control unit (A). 3. Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are making good contact. - If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system. - If the terminals look OK, go to step 4. Page 10024 EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 9078 NO - Repair short in the wire between the No.1 (50 A) fuse and the under-dash fuse/relay box. Also replace the No.1 (50 A) fuse. 10. Try to start the engine. Does the engine start? YES - Go to step 11. NO - Go to step 14. 11. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 12. Connect ECM connector terminal A18 to body ground with a jumper wire. 13. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). Is the MIL on? YES - Update the ECM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM, replace the original ECM. NO - Check for an open in the wire between the ECM (A18) and the gauge assembly. Also check for a blown MIL bulb. If the wires and the bulb are OK, replace the gauge assembly. 14. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 15. Inspect the No.7 (15 A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box. Is the fuse OK? YES - Go to step 22. NO - Go to step 16. 16. Remove the blown No.7 (15 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box. 17. Remove the PGM-FI main relay (IGP). 18. Check for continuity between body ground and the PGM-FI main relay (IGP) 4P connector terminal No.2. Is there continuity? YES - Repair short in the wire between the No.7 (15 A) fuse and the PGM-FI main relay (IGP). Also replace the No.7 (15 A) fuse. Page 507 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. Page 6463 Fuse-to-Components Index Image 6-3 Page 9057 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Page 3500 Vehicle Speed Sensor: Testing and Inspection Vehicle Speed Signal Circuit Troubleshooting Special Tools Required: Test Harness 07LAJ-PT3020A Before testing, inspect the No. 4 (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box. 1. Disconnect the 3P connector from the VSS (vehicle speed sensor) (A). 2. Connect the test harness only to the engine wire harness. 3. Connect the RED test harness clip (B) to the positive prove of an ohmmeter. Cover the white (C) and green (D) test harness with protective tape (E). 4. Check for continuity between the RED test harness clip and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Go to step 5. NO - Repair open in the BLK wire between the VSS and G101. 5. Connect the WHT test harness clip (C) to the positive probe of a voltmeter, and connect the RED test harness clip (B) to the negative probe. 6. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 7. NO - Repair open in the BLK/YEL wire between the VSS and the under-dash fuse/relay box. 7. Disconnect the WHT test harness clip (C). Page 298 2. Remove the carpet hold-down clips on the door sill. 3. Remove the carpet hold-down clip in the passenger's footwell under the glove box. Pull back the carpet. 4. Remove the ECM cover mounting nuts. 5. Pivot the lower edge of the ECM cover off the mounting studs. Lift the upper edge of the cover off the mounting studs, then pull the cover down and back so it clears the evaporator drain tube. 6. Remove the two bolts mounting the ECM to the cover. Disconnect the ECM connectors, and remove the ECM. 7. Install the new ECM and the cover in the reverse order of removal. 8. Reinstall the carpet and the door sill trim. 9. Connect the PGM Tester to the data link connector (DLC). 10. Use the PGM Tester to program the customer's immobilizer key codes into the ECM. Verify that all the keys will start the engine. NOTE: Make sure the PGM Tester software is SN32OP or later. 11. Do the idle learn procedure: ^ Warm the engine to normal operating temperature. ^ Let the engine idle for 10 minutes. If the radiator fan comes on, do not include its running time in the 10 minutes. 12. Center-punch a completion mark above the eighth character of the engine compartment VIN. 13. For California residents: Fill out and give to your customer a Vehicle Emission Recall - Proof of Correction certificate. Advise them to keep this certificate as proof that the emissions recall was completed. Your customer will need to submit this certificate to the DMV if the DMV requests it. A supply of these salmon-colored certificates was sent to your service manager. If you need more, use reorder number Y0657. Page 9064 4. With the connectors still disconnected, make these input tests at the connector. - If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system. - If all the input tests prove OK, go to step 5. 5. Connect the connectors to the gauge assembly and make these input tests at the connector. - If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system. - If all the input tests prove OK, replace the printed circuit board in the gauge assembly. Page 5179 5. If spark plugs need to be replaced, select the spark plugs according to the designation on the cylinder head and the table shown. 6. Apply a small quantity of anti-seize compound to the plug threads, and screw the plugs into the cylinder head finger-tight. The torque them to 23 N.m (2.3 kgf.m,17 lbf.ft). NOTE: If a spark plug is to be reused, use it in the cylinder where the plug was originally located. Page 8824 EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 3942 Idle Air Control Valve: Diagnostic Aids Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Page 340 DTC U0100 thru U1288 Disclaimer Diagrams 185. Idle Stop Switch (CVT) Page 6501 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 9160 Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow from power at the top of the diagram to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another for example is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors Page 791 Power Door Lock Switch: Testing and Inspection Driver's Door Lock Knob Switch Test Driver's Door Lock Knob Switch Test 1. Remove the driver's door panel. 2. Disconnect the 3P connector (A) from the actuator (B). 3. Check for continuity between the A1 and A2 terminals. - With the driver's door locked, there should be continuity. - With the driver's door unlocked, there should be no continuity. 4. If the continuity is not as specified, replace the driver's door lock knob switch. Page 2821 - Keep out of the path of an undeployed front airbag, and do not cut into the center of the steering wheel or dashboard where the front airbags are stored. - Do not cut into the rear (C) pillar on the Accord Hybrid where the side curtain inflator is stored. You should also be aware that extreme heat (320-356°F; 160-180°C) can cause unintended airbag inflation. ELECTRIC SHOCK POTENTIAL Unprotected contact with any electrically charged (hot or live) high-voltage component can cause serious injury or death. However, receiving an electric shock from a Honda hybrid is highly unlikely because of these facts: - Contact with the battery module or other components inside the battery box can occur only if the box is damaged and the contents are exposed, or the box is opened without following proper precautions. - Contact with the electric motor can occur only after one or more components are removed. - The high-voltage cables can be easily identified by their distinctive orange color, and contact with them can be avoided. It's also important to understand that there are only two situations in which the cables can potentially be hot in a Honda Insight or a Civic Hybrid: 1. The ignition switch is on, the engine is running, and the vehicle is accelerating. In this case, the high-voltage battery module is sending current to the motor. 2. The ignition switch is on, the engine is running, and the vehicle is decelerating. In this case, the motor is generating electric current and sending it to the battery module. Locations Knock Sensor: Locations PGM-FI System - Component Location Index Page 6259 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Page 6946 Steering Gear: Adjustments Rack Guide Adjustment Special Tools Required Locknut wrench, 40 mm, 07916-SA50001 1. Set the wheels in the straight ahead position. 2. Remove the left engine under-cover. 3. Loosen the rack guide screw locknut (A) with the special tool, then remove the rack guide screw (B). 4. Remove the old sealant from rack guide screw, and apply new sealant all around the threads. Loosely install the rack guide screw on the steering gearbox. 5. Tighten the rack guide screw to 25 Nm (2.5 kgf-cm, 18 ft. lbs.), then loosen it. 6. Retighten the rack guide screw to 3.9 Nm (0.4 kgf-cm, 2.9 ft. lbs.) then back it off to specified angle. Specified Return Angle: 15° Max 7. Tighten the locknut while holding the rack guide screw. 8. Check for unusual steering effort through the complete turning travel. 9. Check the steering wheel rotational play and the power assist. Page 21 Alarm/Immobilizer Control Unit: Diagnostic Aids Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Page 6622 Cavity Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity / terminal shown is # 6. Circuit Schematics Page 7213 Relay And Control Unit Locations - Dashboard 31. Left Front Side of Engine Compartment Page 3540 Crankshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair Replacement 1. Disconnect the CKP sensor connector, then remove the CKP sensor (A). 2. Install the CKP sensor using a new O-ring (B). Page 7905 This system uses ROM chips that match the transmitter to the security system control unit. When replacing a lost or stolen transmitter, you need to use the three ROM chips (provided with the new transmitter) to match the old transmitter with the new transmitter and the control unit. 1. Remove the rear cover from the old transmitter and the new one. 2. Remove the ROM chip from the old transmitter by sliding its socket holder toward the ROM chip. 3. Insert a new ROM chip into the socket holder, then slide the socket holder toward the socket to lock the chip in place. 4. Repeat step 3 to install a ROM chip into the new transmitter. 5. Reinstall the rear covers on the transmitters. 6. Remove the security system control unit from under the driver's seat. 7. Open the access cover on the control unit, and replace the ROM chip. (Use the same procedure as in steps 2 and 3.) 8. Press the reset button next to the ROM chip. 9. Close the access cover, and reinstall the control unit. If you are replacing a damaged transmitter, don't replace the ROM chips in the transmitters and the control unit; just remove the chip from the old transmitter and install it in the new one. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda using normal parts ordering procedures. If your customer wants to add a third transmitter to the system, you need to order a four ROM chip set directly from Alpine Electronics of America. The Alpine part number for the four ROM chip set is 5319. This ROM chip set does not come with a transmitter. Order the additional transmitter from American Honda. If you have questions about how to order a four ROM chip set, call Alpine's parts department at (800) 421-2284, extension 8885. Batteries for the Transmitter Page 2488 55. Radiator Fan Switch Page 4806 37. EVAP Canister Vent Shut Valve Page 7172 Ambient Temperature Sensor / Switch HVAC: Testing and Inspection Outside Air Temperature Sensor Test Dip the sensor in ice water, and measure the resistance. Then pour hot water on the sensor, and check for a change in resistance. Compare the resistance reading between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals of the outside air temperature sensor with the specifications shown in the graph; the resistance should be within the specifications. Page 9172 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 3444 10. Middle of Engine Page 7645 2. Connect the passenger's airbag 2P connector (A) to the floor wire harness. Attach the passenger's airbag connector to the connector holder (B), then reinstall the glove box. 3. Reconnect the battery negative cable. 4. After installing the airbag, confirm proper system operation: Turn the ignition switch ON (II); the SRS indicator should come on for about 6 seconds and then go off. Page 2022 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. Page 380 DTC P1253 thru P1459 Exploded Views 179. Disarm Switch (Honda Accessory) Page 1002 Wires Page 8751 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 4819 3. Using the tool, loosen the fuel tank unit locknut (A). 4. Remove the bracket (A), the fuel pressure regulator assembly (B), the fuel filter (C), the fuel tank unit (D), the case (E), and the wire harness (F). 5. When connecting the fuel pump, make sure the connection is secure and the suction filter (G) is firmly connected to the fuel pump (H). 6. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal with a new base gasket (I), then check these items: - When connecting the wire harness, make sure the connection is secure and the connector (J) is firmly locked into the place. - Do not push the lower part of the suction filter. - When installing the fuel gauge sending unit, make sure the connection is secure and the connector is firmly locked into place. Be careful not to bend or twist it excessively. - When installing the fuel pump assembly, align the marks (K) on the fuel tank (L) and the fuel pump assembly (M). Page 1708 Coolant: Service and Repair Replacement 1. Start the engine. Set the heater temperature control dial to maximum heat, then turn off the engine. Make sure the engine and radiator are cool to the touch. 2. Remove the radiator cap. 3. Remove the splash shields. 4. Loosen the drain plug (A), and drain the coolant. 5. Remove the drain bolt (A) from the rear side of the cylinder block. 6. After the coolant has drained, apply liquid gasket to the drain bolt threads, then reinstall the bolt with a new washer and tighten it securely. 7. Tighten the radiator drain plug securely. 8. Remove, drain and reinstall the coolant reservoir. Fill the tank to the MAX mark with Honda All Season Antifreeze/Coolant Type 2 (P/N OL 999-9001). 9. Loosen the air bleed bolt (A) in the water outlet, then pour Honda All Season Antifreeze/Coolant Type 2 into the radiator to the bottom of the filler neck. Do not let coolant spill on any electrical parts or the paint. If any coolant spills, rinse it off immediately. NOTE: Page 4435 Oxygen Sensor: Service and Repair Secondary HO2S Replacement Secondary HO2S Replacement NOTE: When Secondary HO2S is replaced, Third HO2S must be replaced at the same time. ('02-03 M/T model only) 1. Disconnect the secondary HO2S 4P connector (A), and remove the secondary HO2S (B). 2. Install the secondary HO2S in the reverse order of removal. Page 559 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. Page 4721 2. Insert a new retainer (A) into the connector (B) if the retainer is damaged, or after - replacing the fuel tank. - replacing the fuel pump. - replacing the fuel filter. - replacing the fuel feed pipe. - replacing the fuel return pipe. - removing the retainer from the pipe. 3. Before connecting a new fuel tube/quick-connect fitting assembly (A), remove the old retainer from the mating pipe. Page 6022 Wheel Speed Sensor: Service and Repair WHEEL SENSOR REPLACEMENT NOTE: Install the sensors carefully to avoid twisting the wires. Page 4526 Splices Components Ground - "G" Locations 39. Upper Left Kick Panel Area Page 6908 Wire Color Coding Distinct Of Circuit By Wire Base Color All wires have color-coded insulation. Wires belonging to a system's main harness will have a single color. Wires belonging to a system's sub-circuits will have a colored stripe. Striped wires use the codes found in the chart to show wire size and colors. Abbreviations are used to indicate wire color within a circuit diagram. Wire Color Abbreviations The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics: WHT................................... White YEL................................... Yellow BLK................................... Black BLU................................... Blue GRN................................... Green RED................................... Red ORN................................... Orange PNK................................... Pink BRN................................... Brown GRY................................... Gray PUR................................... Purple LT BLU................................... Light Blue LT GRN................................... Light Green The wire insulation has one color or one color with another color stripe. The second color is the stripe. How to Identify Connector Terminals How to Identify Connector Terminals Page 1808 Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box Part 1 Page 4928 Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Description and Operation PGM-FI Main Relay The PGM-FI main relay contains two separate relays. One is energized whenever the ignition is on which supplies battery voltage to the ECM, power to the fuel injectors, and power for the fuel cut relay. The fuel cut relay is energized to supply power to the fuel pump for 2 seconds when the ignition is switched ON (II), and when the engine is running. Page 7614 - Refer to the scrapping procedures for disposal of the damaged airbag. Locations Crankshaft Position Sensor: Locations PGM-FI System - Component Location Index Locations 10. Middle of Engine Page 7925 Keyless Entry Transmitter: Service and Repair Transmitter Programming Storing transmitter codes: The codes of up to three transmitters can be stored into the keyless receiver unit memory. (A fourth code cannot be stored.) NOTE: It is important to maintain the time limits between the steps. 1. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 2. Within 1 to 4 sec., push the transmitter lock or unlock button with the transmitter aimed at the receiver (control unit). 3. Within 1 to 4 sec., turn the ignition switch OFF. 4. Within 1 to 4 sec., turn the ignition switch ON (II). 5. Within 1 to 4 sec., push the transmitter lock or unlock button with the transmitter aimed at the receiver (control unit). 6. Within 1 to 4 sec., turn the ignition switch OFF. 7. Within 4 sec., turn the ignition switch ON (II). 8. Within 1 to 4 sec., push the transmitter lock or unlock button with the transmitter aimed at the receiver (control unit). 9. Within 1 to 4 sec., turn the ignition switch OFF. 10. Within 4 sec., turn the ignition switch ON (II). 11. Within 1 to 4 sec., push the transmitter lock or unlock button with the transmitter aimed at the receiver (control unit). 12. Confirm you can hear the sound of the door lock actuators. Within 1 to 4 sec., push the transmitter lock or unlock button again. 13. Within 10 sec., aim the transmitters (up to three) whose codes you want to store at the receiver, and press the transmitter lock or unlock buttons. Confirm that you can hear the sound of the door lock actuators after each transmitter code is stored. 14. Turn the ignition switch OFF, and pull out the key. 15. Confirm proper operation with the new code(s). Page 891 Wheel Speed Sensor: Service and Repair WHEEL SENSOR REPLACEMENT NOTE: Install the sensors carefully to avoid twisting the wires. Removal and Installation Blower Motor: Service and Repair Removal and Installation Blower Unit Removal and Installation 1. With air conditioning, remove the evaporator. Without air conditioning, remove the heater duct. 2. Disconnect the connectors (A) from the blower motor, the blower motor high relay, the power transistor and the recirculation control motor, then remove the wire harness clips (B). Remove the mounting bolts, the mounting nut and the blower unit (C). 3. Install the unit in the reverse order of removal. Make sure that there is no air leakage. Page 5118 Ignition Hold Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relay Test Normally-open type A: 1. Turn the battery module switch OFF, and measure the voltage. 2. Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is disconnected. A/C compressor clutch relay - Air fuel ratio sensor relay - Condenser fan relay - Daytime running lights relay (Canada) - Headlight relay 1 - Headlight relay 2 - High speed battery module fan control relay - High speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - High voltage conductor control relay - Horn relay - Ignition hold relay - Low speed battery module fan control relay - Low speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - Power window relay - Radiator fan relay - Rear window defogger relay - Reverse relay - Starter cut relay Locations Ambient Temperature Sensor / Switch HVAC: Locations Heating - Component Location Index Page 4284 ECM/PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector D (16P) Part 2 Page 1028 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. Page 4767 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. Page 3154 Page 3322 111. Rear Window Defogger, Fuel Cut, Radiator Fan Main (Climate Control) And Intermittent Wiper Relays Locations Relay And Control Unit Locations - Dashboard Page 7437 63. Behind Center Lower Cover Testing and Inspection Fuel Cut Control Unit: Testing and Inspection Fuel Cut Relay Test / Normally-Open Type A Fuel Cut/PGM-FI Main - Relay 1. Turn the battery module switch OFF, and measure the voltage. 2. Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No.3 and No.4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals when power is disconnected. Service and Repair Coolant Outlet: Service and Repair Water Outlet Replacement Removal 1. Write down the frequencies for the radio's preset buttons. 2. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery first, then disconnect the positive cable. 3. Drain the engine coolant. 4. Remove the engine cover. 5. Remove the breather pipe (A) and brake booster vacuum hose bracket (B) from the air cleaner housing, then remove the air cleaner housing/ intake air duct assembly (C). Page 4822 - When connecting the wire harness, make sure the connection is secure and the connector (B) is firmly locked into place. - Do not fold over the lower part of the suction filter (C). - When installing the fuel gauge sending unit (A), make sure the connection is secure and the connector is firmly locked into place. Be careful not to bend or twist it excessively. Page 6691 EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 2679 7. Remove the rear clips from the middle bulkhead carpet. 8. Remove the under-cover (two bolts, two clips, and three screw clips). 9. Remove the intelligent power unit (I PU) lid (six Torx bolts and 17 hex bolts). 10. Measure the voltage between the junction board terminals. There should be 10 V or less. ^ If you have more than 10 V, there's a problem in the MA system. Look for and troubleshoot any DTCs before continuing. ^ If you have 10 V or less, continue to step 11. Page 3702 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. Diagram Information and Instructions Door Switch: Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System Terminal Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown below is #6. Page 8657 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. Page 1519 Windshield Washer Switch: Testing and Inspection Wiper/Washer Switch Test/Replacement 1. Remove the steering column covers. 2. Disconnect the 14P connector (B) from the wiper/washer switch (A). 3. Remove the two screws, then pull out the switch. 4. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table. If the continuity is not as specified, replace the switch. Page 5900 Brake Hose/Line: Service and Repair Brake Hose Replacement NOTICE: To avoid damage, do not strike aluminum parts with a metal hammer. If necessary, tap gently with a plastic tipped hammer. NOTE: ^ Bolts and nuts with the [star] mark are special corrosion resistant Dacro fasteners. Use the same type if replacement is necessary. Before reassembling, check that all parts are free of dust and other foreign particles. ^ Replace parts with new ones whenever specified to do so. Do not spill brake fluid on the vehicle; it may damage the paint; if brake fluid gets on the paint, wash it off immediately with water. 1. Replace the brake hose (A) if the hose is twisted, cracked, or if it leaks. 2. Disconnect the brake hose from the brake line (B) using a 10 mm flare-nut wrench (C). 3. Remove the 6 mm flange bolts (A) and 8 mm flange bolt (B), and remove the brake hose brackets from the body and damper. 4. Remove the banjo bolt (C), and remove the brake hose from the caliper. 5. Install the brake hose bracket (A) on the damper with the 8 mm flange bolt (B) first, then connect the brake hose to the caliper with the banjo bolt (C) and new sealing washers (D). Page 9465 Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow from power at the top of the diagram to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another for example is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors Page 8952 3. Using the tool, loosen the fuel pump locknut (A), and remove the fuel pump. 4. Measure the resistance between the No.1 and No.2 terminals with the float at E (EMPTY), 1/2 (HALF FULL), and F (FULL) positions. If you do not get the given readings, replace the fuel gauge sending unit (A). 5. Install the pants in the reverse order of removal with a new base gasket and new quick connect retainers, then check these items: Deployment Tool Check Procedure Seat Belt Tensioner: Service and Repair Deployment Tool Check Procedure Deployment Tool Check 1. Connect the yellow clips to both switch protector handles on the tool; connect the tool to a battery. 2. Push the operation switch: green means the tool is OK; red means the tool is faulty. 3. Disconnect the battery and the yellow clips. Locations Horn Relay: Locations Relay And Control Unit Location - Engine Compartment Page 7623 3. Remove the glove box, then disconnect the passenger's airbag 2P connector (A) from the floor wire harness. Seat Belt Tensioner: 4. Remove the B-pillar lower trim panel, then disconnect the seat belt tensioner2P connector (A) from the floor wire harness. Page 3001 High/Bypass Contactor Control Relay: Testing and Inspection High Voltage Contractor Control Relay Normally-Open Type A 1. Turn the battery module switch OFF, and measure the voltage. 2. Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No.3 and No.4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals when power is disconnected. Page 7117 Diodes How to Identify Wiring Color-Coded Insulation Wire Color Page 4747 Cavity Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity / terminal shown is # 6. Circuit Schematics Page 3198 ECM Inputs and Outputs at Connector B (25P) Part 2 Page 6914 In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locater) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: - Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. Page 4427 16. Rear of Engine Water Pump Belt (Without A/C) Drive Belt: Testing and Inspection Water Pump Belt (Without A/C) Inspection and Adjustment (Without A/C) Special Tools Required Belt tension gauge 07JGG-001010A Belt Tension Gauge Method Inspection 1. Remove the right rear splash shield. 2. Attach the belt tension gauge to the belt, and measure the tension. Follow the gauge manufacturer's instructions. If the belt is worn or damaged, replace it. If the belt needs adjustment, go to step 3. Tension: Used Belt: 340 - 490 N (35 - 50 kgf, 77 - 110 lbs) New Belt: 440 - 640 N (45 - 65 kgf, 99 - 143 lbs) Adjustment 3. Loosen the idler pulley center nut (A). 4. Turn the adjusting bolt (B) to obtain the proper belt tension, then retighten the idler pulley center nut. 5. Recheck the belt tension. 6. If you installed a new belt, run the engine for five minutes, then readjust the belt to the used belt specification. Deflection Method Inspection 1. Apply a force of 98 N (10 kgf, 22 lbs), and measure the deflection at the mid point (A) between the water pump and crankshaft pulleys. If the belt is worn or damaged, replace it. If the belt needs adjustment, go to step 2. Deflection: Used Belt: 8.5 - 11.0 mm (0.33 - 0.43 inch) New Belt: 7.0 - 10.0 mm (0.28 - 0.39 inch) Adjustment Locations Blower Motor Relay: Locations Heating - Component Location Index Page 5021 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. Page 2370 10. Measure voltage between ECM connector terminals A31 and B20. Is there battery voltage? YES - Replace the idle stop switch. NO - Go to step 11. 11. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 12. Disconnect ECM connector A (32P). 13. Check for continuity between ECM connector terminal A31 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Repair short in the wire between the ECM (A31) and the idle stop switch. NO - Update the ECM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM, replace the original ECM. 14. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 15. Disconnect the idle stop switch 2P connector. 16. Check for continuity between the idle stop switch 2P connector terminals No.1 and No.2. Is there continuity? YES - Go to step 17. NO - Replace the idle stop switch. Page 7507 - Taillight relay Page 473 ECM/PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector D (16P) Part 1 Page 6401 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Lower Rear Window Replacement Back Window Glass: Service and Repair Lower Rear Window Replacement Lower Rear Window Replacement NOTE: Familiarize yourself with the glass replacement process. Parts Removal Disconnect the lower rear window defogger connectors, and remove these items: - Hatch spoiler trim - Hatch opener switch Cutting Positions Slip the piano wire through the adhesive at each position as shown, and pull it back as indicated by the arrows. Page 9891 Low Beam Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relay Test Five-terminal type: Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 5 terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 4 terminals when power is disconnected. - Fan control relay - Low beam cut relay (Canada) - Windshield wiper intermittent relay Component Locations Oxygen Sensor: Component Locations PGM-FI System - Component Location Index Part 1 Page 9965 5. Door Switch, Driver's Or Passenger's Connector Views 177. In-Line Fuse (Honda Accessory) General Precautions Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Service Precautions General Precautions General Precautions Please read the following precautions carefully before performing the airbag system service. Observe the instructions described or the airbags could accidentally deploy and cause damage or injuries. Except when performing electrical inspections, always turn the ignition switch OFF and disconnect the negative cable from the battery, and wait at least three minutes before beginning work. NOTE: The contents in the memory is not erased even if the ignition switch is turned OFF or the battery cables are disconnected from the battery. Use the replacement parts which are manufactured to the same standards as the original parts and quality. Do not install used SRS parts from another vehicle. Use only new parts when making SRS repairs. Carefully inspect any SRS part before you install it. Do not install any part that shows signs of being dropped or improperly handled, such as dents, cracks or deformation. Before removing any of the SRS parts (including the disconnection of the connectors), always disconnect the SRS connector. Use only a digital multimeter to check the system. If it is not a Honda multimeter, make sure its output is 10 mA (0.01 A) or less when switched to the lowest value in the ohmmeter range. A tester with a higher output could cause accidental deployment and possible injury. Do not put objects on the front passenger's airbag. The original radio has a coded theft protection circuit. Be sure to get the customer's radio code before disconnecting the battery cable. Page 1011 Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution diagram set to get a more detailed picture of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Page 10155 Heated Glass Element Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relay Test Normally-open type A: 1. Turn the battery module switch OFF, and measure the voltage. 2. Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is disconnected. A/C compressor clutch relay - Air fuel ratio sensor relay - Condenser fan relay - Daytime running lights relay (Canada) - Headlight relay 1 - Headlight relay 2 - High speed battery module fan control relay - High speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - High voltage conductor control relay - Horn relay - Ignition hold relay - Low speed battery module fan control relay - Low speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - Power window relay - Radiator fan relay - Rear window defogger relay - Reverse relay - Starter cut relay Page 3341 All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416 etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector or by a capital letter (A, B, C etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Connector Views that shows the connector terminals wire colors connector cavity numbers and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints shown on diagram [8] . Except for the DLC (data link connector) disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554 for example means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Page 9722 License Plate Lamp: Electrical Diagrams Diagram 110-8 Diagrams: Other diagrams referred to by number (See Diagram ##-#, etc.) within these diagrams can be found at Diagrams by Number. See: Diagrams/Electrical Diagrams/Diagrams By Number Locations: Location photographs (references to PHOTOS) referred to within these diagrams can be found at Locations by Photo Number. See: Locations/Component Locations/Locations By Photo Number Connector Views: Connector terminal views (references to VIEWS) referred to within these diagrams can be found at Connector Views by View Page 10091 Combination Switch: Testing and Inspection Combination Light Switch Test/Replacement 1. Remove the steering column covers. 2. Disconnect the 16P connector (B) from the combination light switch (A). 3. Remove the two screws, then pull out the switch. 4. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table. If the continuity check is not as specified, replace the switch. Component Locations Power Door Lock Control Module: Component Locations Relay And Control Unit Locations - Dashboard Page 4969 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. Page 314 PARTS INFORMATION Engine Control Module: P/N 06380-PHM-A00, H/C 6441117 WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Carefully remove the passenger's side door sill trim. 2. Remove the two carpet hold-down clips on the door sill. 3. Remove the carpet hold-down clip in the passenger's footwell under the glove box. Pull back the carpet. 4. Remove the ECM cover mounting nuts. 5. Pivot the lower edge of the ECM cover off the mounting studs. Lift the upper edge of the cover off the mounting studs, then pull the cover down and back so it clears the evaporator drain tube. 6. Remove the two bolts mounting the ECM to the cover. Disconnect the ECM connectors. 7. Install the new ECM in the reverse order of removal. 8. Reinstall the carpet and the door sill trim. Page 2750 11. Lift out the battery module foam insert. 12. Remove the mounting bolts for the battery condition monitor (BCM) module and the motor control module (MCM). Disconnect the electrical connectors, then remove the modules. 13. Install the new BCM and MCM. Make sure all module connectors are secure. 14. Install the IPU lid. 15. Remove the locking cover from the battery module switch, install the 5 mm bolt, turn the switch on, reinstall the locking cover, and install the battery module switch cover. 16. Install the remaining parts in the reverse order of removal. 17. Reconnect the negative cable to the under-hood 12 V battery. Locations 23. Left Rear of Engine Compartment Page 6389 First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 8210 Terminals - "T" Shielding Switches Fuses Page 8990 Lights-on,key-in,and Seat Belt Reminders Image 73-1 Page 2018 Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution diagram set to get a more detailed picture of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Page 9468 Console Lamp: Diagnostic Aids Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Page 3445 45. IAT Sensor Page 4212 DTC P0750 thru P0977 Page 1864 Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution diagram set to get a more detailed picture of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Page 4958 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: - Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest OHMS" range. Page 7560 47. In-car Temperature Sensor PGM-FI Main Relay Circuit Troubleshooting Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Testing and Inspection PGM-FI Main Relay Circuit Troubleshooting PGM-FI Main Relay Circuit Troubleshooting 1. Turn the ignition switch OFF, then disconnect the PGM-FI main relay connectors. 2. Check for continuity between body ground and PGM-FI main relay diode 2P connector terminal No.2. Is there continuity? YES - Go to step 3. NO - Repair open in the wire between the PGM-FI main relay and G101. 3. Measure voltage between body ground and PGM-FI main relay (IGP) 4P connector terminal No.2. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 5. NO - Go to step 4. 4. Check for a blown No.7 (15 A) fuse in the underhood fuse/relay box. Is the fuse blown? YES - Repair the short in the wire between the PGM-FI main relay and the No.7 (15 A) fuse. NO - Repair the open in the wire between the PGM-FI main relay and the No.7 (15 A) fuse. Page 2513 Temperature Gauge: Testing and Inspection Coolant Temperature Gauge Troubleshooting Before testing, check the No. 6 (7.5 A) fuse and No. 18 (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box. 1. Start the engine and check the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL). Does the MIL come on? YES - Troubleshooting the DTC, and recheck. NO - Inspect the connector and socket terminals of the gauge assembly connectors. If the terminals look OK, replace the printed circuit board in the gauge assembly. Page 1586 NOTE: Do this repair procedure if, after doing step 10 of the test-drive, the vehicle pulled in the opposite direction after you swapped the front tires. 1. Swap wheels 2 and 4 on the passenger's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again. ^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 2, then go to step 3. ^ If the pull does not go away, put wheels 2 and 4 back to their original positions, and go to step 2. 2. Swap wheels 1 and 3 on the driver's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again. ^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 1, then go to step 3. ^ If the pull does not go away, use a known-good tire in position 1 and continue diagnosis. 3. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC. REPAIR PROCEDURE B Page 6013 Parking Brake Warning Switch: Testing and Inspection Parking Brake Switch Test 1. Remove the console, and disconnect the connector (A) from the switch (B). 2. Check for continuity between the positive terminal and body ground: ^ With the brake lever up, there should be continuity. ^ With the brake lever down, there should be no continuity. Page 4033 First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 3887 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Page 6320 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. Page 9391 EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 867 Brake Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch: Diagrams 25. Brake Fluid Level Switch 205. Brake Fluid Pressure Sensor A 206. Brake Fluid Pressure Sensor B Page 7245 4. Remove the bolt and holder (A), then disconnect the field coil connector (B). Loosen the clamp screw (C) to free the field coil wire. Remove the snap ring (D) with snap ring pliers, then remove the field coil (E). Be careful not to damage the field coil or the compressor. 5. Reassemble in the reverse order of disassembly, and note these items: - Install the field coil with the wire side facing down, and align the boss on the field coil with the hole in the compressor. - Clean the rotor pulley and compressor sliding surfaces with contact cleaner or other non-petroleum solvent. - Install new snap rings and make sure they are fully seated in the groove. - Make sure that the rotor pulley turns smoothly after it's reassembled. - Route and clamp the wires properly or they can be damaged by the rotor pulley. Testing and Inspection Ambient Light Sensor: Testing and Inspection Lights-on, Key-in, Seat Belt Reminder, Key Light Timer, Indicator/Reminder Systems 1. Remove the gauge assembly. 2. Disconnect the gauge assembly 30P connector A and 22P connector B. 3. Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are making good contact. - If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system. - If the terminals are OK, go to step 4. 4. With the connectors still disconnected, make these input tests at the connector. Page 7535 EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 3283 Splices Components Ground - "G" Locations Turn Signal/Hazard Flasher - Component Location Index Page 2879 18. Middle Rear of Engine Page 6523 Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box Part 2 Description and Operation Ignition Timing Connector: Description and Operation Ignition Timing Control The ECM contains the memory for basic ignition timing at various engine speeds and manifold absolute pressure. It also adjusts the timing according to engine coolant temperature. Page 9507 Wires Page 6924 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Idle Control System Idle Speed: Description and Operation Idle Control System Idle Control System The idle speed of the engine is controlled by the IAC (idle air control) valve: - After the engine starts, the IAC valve opens for a certain time. The amount of air is increased to raise the idle speed. - When the engine coolant temperature is low, the IAC valve is opened to obtain the proper fast idle speed. The amount of bypassed air is controlled in relation to engine coolant temperature to maintain the proper idle speed. Page 7632 Air Bag: Description and Operation SRS / Airbags The SRS is a safety device which, when used in conjunction with the seat belt, is designed to help protect the driver and passenger in a frontal impact exceeding a certain set limit. The system consists of the SRS unit, including a safing sensor and an impact sensor (A), the cable reel (B), the driver's airbag (C) and the passenger's airbag (D). The seat belt tensioner (E) is linked with the SRS airbags to further increase the effectiveness of the seat belt. In a front-end collision, the tensioner instantly retracts the belt firmly to secure the occupants in their seats. Page 2979 1. Inspect the cooling air intake behind the passenger seat and the cooling exhaust holes in the IMA case above the spare tire. If either is obstructed, remove the obstruction, and clear the code. Advise the customer that blocking the vents can cause this problem. 2. Remove the IMA cover (steps 3-10 of REPAIR PROCEDURE). Refer to page 12-4 of the 2000 Insight Service Manual. 3. Make sure the cooling fan on the battery pack is operating normally. Use the PGM Tester to run the fan in high and low speed modes. ^ If the fan is OK, check the part number on the battery condition monitor module. If the part number is not 1K100-PHM-030, then the battery condition monitor module and the motor control module need to be replaced. Go to REPAIR PROCEDURE. ^ If the fan is not OK, repair as needed. REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Write down the radio station presets. 2. Turn the ignition switch off, then disconnect the negative cable from the 12-volt battery in the engine compartment. 3. Remove the cargo area carpet and the cargo box. (Refer to page 20-43 of the Insight Service Manual). Page 9308 Temperature Gauge: Testing and Inspection Coolant Temperature Gauge Troubleshooting Before testing, check the No. 6 (7.5 A) fuse and No. 18 (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box. 1. Start the engine and check the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL). Does the MIL come on? YES - Troubleshooting the DTC, and recheck. NO - Inspect the connector and socket terminals of the gauge assembly connectors. If the terminals look OK, replace the printed circuit board in the gauge assembly. Page 4924 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 9547 Connectors - "C" Page 7048 2. Remove the center cap (A), wheel nuts (B), and front wheel (C). 3. Remove the brake hose bracket mounting bolt (A). 4. Remove the caliper bracket mounting bolts (B), and remove the caliper assembly (C) from the knuckle. To prevent damage to the caliper assembly or brake hose, use a short piece of wire to hang the caliper assembly from the undercarriage. Do not twist the brake hose with force. 5. Remove the spindle nut (A). Page 7668 6. If necessary, center the cable reel. (New replacement cable reels come centered.) Do this by first rotating the cable reel clockwise until it stops. Then rotate it counterclockwise (approximately 2 1/2 turns) until the arrow mark on the cable reel label points straight up. 7. Position the two tabs (A) of the turn signal cancelling sleeve (B) as shown, and install the steering wheel on to the steering column shaft, making sure the steering wheel hub (C) engages the pins (D) of the cable reel and tabs of the cancelling sleeve. Do not tap on the steering wheel or steering column shaft when installing the steering wheel. 8. Install the steering wheel bolt (A), and tighten it to 38 N.m (3.9 kgf.m, 28 lbf.ft). 9. Install the driver's airbag. 10. Reconnect the battery negative cable. 11. After installing the cable reel, confirm proper system operation: - Turn the ignition switch ON (II); the SRS indicator should come on for about 6 seconds and then go off. - After the SRS indicator has turned off, turn the steering wheel fully left and right to confirm the indicator does not come on. - Make sure the horn works. Page 4108 2. Remove the carpet hold-down clips on the door sill. 3. Remove the carpet hold-down clip in the passenger's footwell under the glove box. Pull back the carpet. 4. Remove the ECM cover mounting nuts. 5. Pivot the lower edge of the ECM cover off the mounting studs. Lift the upper edge of the cover off the mounting studs, then pull the cover down and back so it clears the evaporator drain tube. 6. Remove the two bolts mounting the ECM to the cover. Disconnect the ECM connectors, and remove the ECM. 7. Install the new ECM and the cover in the reverse order of removal. 8. Reinstall the carpet and the door sill trim. 9. Connect the PGM Tester to the data link connector (DLC). 10. Use the PGM Tester to program the customer's immobilizer key codes into the ECM. Verify that all the keys will start the engine. NOTE: Make sure the PGM Tester software is SN32OP or later. 11. Do the idle learn procedure: ^ Warm the engine to normal operating temperature. ^ Let the engine idle for 10 minutes. If the radiator fan comes on, do not include its running time in the 10 minutes. 12. Center-punch a completion mark above the eighth character of the engine compartment VIN. 13. For California residents: Fill out and give to your customer a Vehicle Emission Recall - Proof of Correction certificate. Advise them to keep this certificate as proof that the emissions recall was completed. Your customer will need to submit this certificate to the DMV if the DMV requests it. A supply of these salmon-colored certificates was sent to your service manager. If you need more, use reorder number Y0657. Page 3189 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. Page 8430 180. Unlock Relay (Honda Accessory) Page 1103 Cavity Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity / terminal shown is # 6. Circuit Schematics Page 9624 Hazard Flasher Relay: Testing and Inspection Turn Signal/Hazard Relay Input Test 1. Remove the turn signal/hazard relay (A) from the under-dash fuse/relay box (B). 2. Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are all making good contact. - If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system. - If the terminals look OK, make the following input tests at the fuse/relay box socket. If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system. - If all the input tests prove OK, the turn signal/hazard relay must be faulty; replace it. Campaign - Premature IMA Battery Module Failures Technical Service Bulletin # 06-026 Date: 080205 Campaign - Premature IMA Battery Module Failures 06-026 February 5, 2008 Applies To: 2000-04 Insight - See VEHICLES AFFECTED Product Update: Premature IMA Battery Module Failure (Supersedes 06-026, dated May 13, 2006) Updated information is shown with black bars in the images and asterisks in the text. BACKGROUND *NOTE: Because of a class action settlement, the warranty coverage for the IMA battery on 2002-04 Insights purchased or leased between April 13, 2002, and November 7, 2006, is now 10 years or 157,500 miles, whichever occurs first. For more information, refer to Service Bulletin 06-085, Warranty Extension: Vehicle Warranty Mileage.* American Honda is announcing a product update to replace certain IMA components to help prevent IMA battery deterioration. This product update applies only in states where there is an abnormally high replacement rate for IMA batteries. The IMA battery control module(s) allows the battery to overcharge. Occasional overcharging is a desirable function, but too many frequently repeated cycles of overcharge can damage the IMA battery. This damage is the result of excessive current and heat build up. Unique local topographical and ambient conditions in affected states, combined with a driving cycle that typically keeps the IMA battery fully charged, create this potential problem. VEHICLES AFFECTED This product update affects all 2000-04 Insights registered in the states of Arizona, California, Colorado, Florida, Hawaii, Nevada, and Texas, the shaded states on this map) as shown. To verify vehicle eligibility, check for at least one of these items: ^ The customer has a notification letter. ^ The vehicle is shown as eligible on a VIN status inquiry. In addition to these verification items, check for a punch mark above the 14th character of the engine compartment VIN. A punch mark in that location means the product update has already been completed. CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION Owners of affected vehicles within the seven states have received a notification of this product update. An example of the notification is shown in this service bulletin. Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box Service and Repair Control Arm: Service and Repair Front Lower Arm Removal/Installation Special Tools Required Ball joint remover, 28 mm 07MAC-SL00200 NOTICE: To avoid damage, do not strike aluminum parts with a metal hammer. If necessary, tap gently with a plastic tipped hammer. NOTE: Bolts and nuts with the [star] mark are special corrosion-resistant Dacro fasteners. Use the same type if replacement is necessary. 1. Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper location. Remove the front wheels. 2. Turn the front of the knuckle outward. Tap the driveshaft inward with a plastic hammer to allow space to install the special tool on the lower arm ball joint. 3. Remove the lower arm ball joint from the knuckle. 4. Remove the front lower arm cover (A). 5. Remove the flange bolts (A) and nut (B), and remove the beam under-cover (C) and the lower arm (D). Note the lengths of the bolts (1) is longer than (2), and (2) is longer than (3). 6. Install the lower arm in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - Be careful not to damage the ball joint boot when connecting the lower arm to the knuckle. - Tighten all mounting hardware to the specified torque values. - First install all the components and lightly tighten bolts and nuts, then raise the suspension to load the weight before fully tightening to the specified torques. - Tighten the castle nut to the lower torque specification, then tighten it only far enough to align the slot with the ball joint pin hole. Do not align Page 9032 Terminals - "T" Shielding Switches Fuses Page 9747 First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right Alignment: All Technical Service Bulletins Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right 06-068 May 2, 2009 Applies To: ALL *Vehicle Pulls or Drifts, and/or Steering Wheel Is Off-Center (Supersedes 06-068, Vehicle Pulling or Drifting, dated October 4, 2007, to revise the information marked by asterisks) (Replaces 90-011, Steering Wheel Off-Center Adjustment at PDI)* *REVISION SUMMARY The title description was revised.* SYMPTOM While driving on a straight road, the vehicle pulls or drifts to the right or left. BACKGROUND New tools were developed to help you diagnose and correct a pulling and/or steering wheel off-center issue. There is a diagnosis worksheet included to take on your test-drive and record your findings. These values are used to build the 15-digit DTC (diagnostic trouble code) that is required for your warranty claim. The last step in each repair procedure helps you create the correct code. In the rare case that you have to repair a vehicle that pulls and has the steering wheel off-center, use REPAIR PROCEDURE B to file your warranty claim. For more information, refer to Training Module SSC 44 - Steering Drift or Pull Interactive Service Bulletin. PROBABLE CAUSES Several conditions can cause the vehicle to pull or drift: ^ Wheel alignment ^ Tires ^ Off-center steering wheel (no pulling or drifting, but a customer may believe this is the case) CORRECTIVE ACTION Diagnose the problem using the special tools and the worksheet on page 4 that guides you to one of four repair procedures. TOOL INFORMATION Centering Tape (enough to diagnose 240 vehicles): T/N O7AAJ-001A300 Steering Drift Set Level: T/N 07AAJ-00100 Steering Drift Set: T/N O7MJ-001A140 Replacement Weight for Steering Drift Set: T/N 07AAJ-001A400 WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Failed Part: P/N 53560-SDA-AO1 H/C 7139652 Diagnostic Aids Engine Control Module: Diagnostic Aids Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Page 974 Solar Sensor: Testing and Inspection Sunlight Sensor Test Turn the ignition switch ON (II). Measure the voltage between the terminals with the (+) probe on the No. 1 terminal and the (-) probe on the No. 2 terminal with the 2P connector connected. The voltage reading will not change under the light of a flashlight or a fluorescent lamp. Voltage should be: - 3.6 - 3.7 V or more with the sensor out of direct sunlight. - 3.6 - 3.5 V or less with the sensor in direct sunlight. Page 3692 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. Page 4765 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. Locations SRS Components Page 9080 23. Remove the blown No.2 (15 A) fuse in the underdash fuse/relay box. 24. Remove the PGM-FI main relay (FUEL PUMP). 25. Remove the fuel tank. 26. Check for continuity between fuel pump 5P connector terminal No.5 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Repair short in the wire between the fuel pump and the PGM-FI main relay (FUEL PUMP). Also replace the No.2 (15 A) fuse. NO - Go to step 27. 27. Reinstall the PGM-FI main relay (FUEL PUMP). 28. Check for continuity between fuel pump 5P connector terminal No.5 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Replace the PGM-FI main relay (FUEL PUMP). Also replace the No.2 (15 A) fuse. NO - Check the fuel pump, and replace it if necessary. Also replace the No.2 (15 A) fuse. 29. Check for continuity between body ground and PGM-FI main relay diode 2P connector terminal No.2. Is there continuity? YES - Go to step 30. Page 8464 Programming the Transmitter NOTES: ^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased. ^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the programming mode. ^ You must complete steps 1-6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from exiting the programming mode. 1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter can be used for this step.) 3. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 4. Repeat steps 1, 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2. 5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode. 7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted the transmitter's code. 8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda using normal parts ordering procedures. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery. 88-91 Prelude With Dealer-Installed Security System 1988-91 Prelude with dealer-installed security system Page 7424 Heater Core: Service and Repair Heater Unit/Core Replacement SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations, precautions, and procedures before performing repair or service. 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. 2. From under the hood, open the cable clamp (A), then disconnect the heater valve cable (B) from the heater valve arm (C). Turn the heater valve arm to the fully opened position as shown. 3. When the engine is cool, drain the engine coolant from the radiator. 4. Remove the mounting bolt from the heater valve. Slide the hose clamps (A) back, then disconnect the inlet heater hose (B) and the outlet heater hose (C) from the heater unit. Engine coolant will run out when the hoses are disconnected; drain it into a clean drip pan. Be sure not to let coolant spill on the electrical parts or the painted surfaces. If any coolant spills, rinse it off immediately. Page 6958 5. Remove the steering wheel puller, then remove the steering wheel bolt and steering wheel from the steering column. Disassembly/Reassembly Installation 1. Before installing the steering wheel, make sure the front wheels are aligned straight ahead, then center the cable reel (A). Do this by first rotating the cable reel clockwise until it stops. Then rotate it counterclockwise approximately two and half turns. The arrow mark (B) on the cable reel label point should point straight up. Page 3237 Cavity Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity / terminal shown is # 6. Circuit Schematics Page 7835 Wire Color Abbreviations Page 7858 EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Engine/Motor Controls - IMA Indicator ON/DTC's Set Motor Control Module (MCM): Customer Interest Engine/Motor Controls - IMA Indicator ON/DTC's Set 02-035 July 23, 2002 Applies To: 2000 Insight - ALL 2001 Insight With M/T - From JHMZE13...1T00001 thru JHMZE13...1T01925 IMA Indicator Comes On With DTC 63 or P1448 (Supersedes 02-035, IMA System Stores DTC 63 or P1448, dated June 25, 2002) Updated information is shown by black bars and asterisks. SYMPTOM The IMA (Integrated Motor Assist) system indicator is on and DIG 63 (P1448) is stored in the MCM memory. PROBABLE CAUSE The MCM (motor control module) software incorrectly reports an IMA battery cooling problem. CORRECTIVE ACTION Replace the battery condition monitor module and the motor control module. PARTS INFORMATION ECU Module Kit: P/N 06060-PHM-305 H/C 6912901 WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. * Operation Number: 118122 * Flat Rate Time: 0.8 hour Failed Part: P/N 1K100-PHM-010 H/C 6377170 Defect Code: 032 Contention Code: C99 Template ID: 02-035A Skill Level: Repair Technician Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. DIAGNOSIS Page 4741 Wires Page 3199 ECM Inputs and Outputs at Connector C (31P) Part 1 Page 7868 Alarm/Immobilizer Control Unit: Description and Operation How the Immobilizer System Circuit Works The immobilizer system is designed to prevent the car from being started without the owner's ignition key. If an attempt is made to start the car with any other key, the immobilizer system will disable the car's fuel supply. The immobilizer system consists of the ignition key, immobilizer receiver unit, immobilizer system indicator, PGM-FI main relay, fuel pump, fuel cut relay, and the ECM. With the ignition switch in ON (II) or START (III), the immobilizer receiver unit and the ECM receive an "ignition on" signal through fuse 7 and the PGM-FI main relay. The ECM then sends power to the ignition key transponder through the immobilizer receiver unit. The transponder then sends a coded signal back to the ECM through the receiver. If the signal is correct, the ECM will enable the car's fuel supply system by grounding the fuel cut relay. The immobilizer system indicator then flashes a code to indicate that the correct key has been inserted. If the ignition key signal is not correct, the ECM will disable the car's fuel supply system by not grounding the fuel cut relay. The immobilizer system indicator then flashes a code to indicate that an incorrect key has been inserted. Refer to the Body Electrical System for specific tests and troubleshooting procedures. Page 3412 126. Below Right Side of Engine Page 9785 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. Page 4275 ECM Inputs and Outputs at Connector D (16P) Part 2 Service and Repair Fuel Pressure Release: Service and Repair Fuel Pressure Relieving Before disconnecting fuel pipes or hoses, release pressure from the system by loosening the sealing nut on top of the fuel rail. 1. Write down the frequencies for the radio's preset buttons. 2. Disconnect the battery negative cable from the battery negative terminal. 3. Remove the fuel fill cap. 4. Use a wrench on the sealing nut (A) at the fuel rail. 5. Place a rag or shop towel (B) over the sealing nut. 6. Slowly loosen the sealing nut one complete turn. NOTE: Replace all washers whenever the sealing nut is loosened or removed. Air Mix Control Motor Air Door Actuator / Motor: Service and Repair Air Mix Control Motor Air Mix Control Motor Replacement 1. Disconnect the 5P connector (A) from the air mix control motor (B). Remove the self-tapping screws, the air mix control motor and the flange collar (C) from the heater unit. 2. Install the motor in the reverse order of removal. Make sure the pin on the motor is properly engaged with the linkage. After installation, make sure the motor runs smoothly. Page 2079 Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution diagram set to get a more detailed picture of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Page 7370 All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416 etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector or by a capital letter (A, B, C etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Connector Views that shows the connector terminals wire colors connector cavity numbers and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints shown on diagram [8] . Except for the DLC (data link connector) disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554 for example means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Page 4568 8. Connect the GRN test harness clip (D) to the positive probe of a voltmeter. Is there 5 V or more? YES - Go to step 9. NO - Repair short in the BLU/WHT wire between the VSS and the ECM. 9. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 10. Connect the other test harness connector (A) to the VSS (B). 11. Raise the front of the vehicle, and make sure it is securely supported. 12. Put the vehicle in neutral with the ignition switch ON (II). 13. Slowly rotate one wheel with the other wheel blocked. Does voltage pulse from 0 to approx. 5 V or more? YES - Go to step 14. NO - Replace the VSS. 14. Disconnect the 30P connector "A" from the gauge assembly. 15. Connect a voltmeter between the BLU/WHT wire and body ground. 16. Slowly rotate one wheel with the other wheel blocked. Page 7664 Clockspring Assembly / Spiral Cable: Service Precautions Steering-related Precautions Cable Reel Alignment - Misalignment of the cable reel could cause an open in the wiring, making the SRS system and the horns inoperative. Center the cable reel whenever the following is performed. Installation of the steering wheel - Installation of the cable reel - Installation of the steering column - Other steering-related adjustment or installation - Do not disassemble the cable reel. - Do not apply grease on the cable reel. - If the cable reel shows any signs of damage or contamination, replace it with a new one. For example, it does not rotate smoothly. Page 9710 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 9121 All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416 etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector or by a capital letter (A, B, C etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Connector Views that shows the connector terminals wire colors connector cavity numbers and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints shown on diagram [8] . Except for the DLC (data link connector) disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554 for example means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Page 6506 Diagram 155 Diagrams: Other diagrams referred to by number (See Diagram ##-#, etc.) within these diagrams can be found at Diagrams by Number. See: Diagrams/Electrical Diagrams/Diagrams By Number Locations: Location photographs (references to PHOTOS) referred to within these diagrams can be found at Locations by Photo Number. See: Locations/Component Locations/Locations By Photo Number Connector Views: Connector terminal views (references to VIEWS) referred to within these diagrams can be found at Connector Views by View Number. See: Diagrams/Connector Views/Connector Views By View Number Page 1872 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 2303 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. Page 9395 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. Page 7848 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: - Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest OHMS" range. Page 8504 Doors - Component Location Index Page 8846 Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Description and Operation Definitions Air Bag An inflatable cloth cushion designed to deploy in certain frontal crashes. It supplements the protection offered by the seat belts by distributing the impact load more evenly over the vehicle occupant's head and torso. Asynchronous Performed in a nonperiodic fashion, (i.e., no defined time or interval). (B+) Battery voltage, (B+) The voltage available at the battery at the time of the indicated measurement. With the key "ON" and the engine not running, the system voltage will likely be between 12 and 12.5 volts. At idle the voltage may be 14 to 16 volts. The voltage could be as low as 10 volts during engine cranking. Bulb Check The SDM will cause the "AIR BAG" warning lamp to flash seven times and then go "OFF" whenever the ignition switch transitions to the ON position from any other ignition switch position and no malfunctions are detected. "CONTINUOUS MONITORING" Tests performed by the SDM on the SRS every 100 milliseconds while "Ignition 1" voltage is in the normal operating voltage range at the SDM. Data Link Connector (DLC) Formerly "DLC" a connector which allows communication with an external computer, such as a scan tool. Datum Line A base line parallel to the plane of the underbody or frame from which all vertical measurements originate. Deploy To inflate the air bag. Deployment Loops The circuits which supply current to the air bag assemblies to deploy the air bag. Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) Formerly "Code", a numerical designator used by the SDM to indicate specific SRS malfunctions. Driver Current Source An output of the SDM which applies current into the driver air bag assembly circuit during the "Initiator Assembly Resistance Test". Driver Air Bag Assembly An assembly located in the steering wheel hub consisting of an inflatable bag, an inflator and an initiator. EEPROM Electronically Erasable Programmable Read Only Memory. Memory which retains its contents when power is removed from the SDM. Ignition Cycle The voltage at the SDM "Ignition 1" inputs, with ignition switch "ON", is within the normal operating voltage range for at least ten seconds before turning ignition switch "OFF". Ignition 1 Page 7307 7. Measure the voltage between the No. 4 terminal of the condenser fan relay 4P socket and body ground. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 8. NO - Repair open in the wire between the No. 16 fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box and the condenser fan relay. 8. Reinstall the condenser fan relay. 9. Remove the A/C diode from the left side of dash. 10. On the A/C diode, check for current flow in both directions between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals, and between the No. 2 and No. 3 terminals. Does current flow match the diagram? YES - Go to step 11. NO - Replace the A/C diode. 11. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 12. Measure the voltage between the No. 2 terminal of the A/C diode 3P connector and body ground. Is there battery voltage? YES - Repair open in the wire between the A/C diode and the A/C pressure switch. Page 132 Condenser Fan Motor Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relay Test Normally-open type A: 1. Turn the battery module switch OFF, and measure the voltage. 2. Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is disconnected. A/C compressor clutch relay - Air fuel ratio sensor relay - Condenser fan relay - Daytime running lights relay (Canada) - Headlight relay 1 - Headlight relay 2 - High speed battery module fan control relay - High speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - High voltage conductor control relay - Horn relay - Ignition hold relay - Low speed battery module fan control relay - Low speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - Power window relay - Radiator fan relay - Rear window defogger relay - Reverse relay - Starter cut relay Page 6915 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: - Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest OHMS" range. Page 4081 Oxygen Sensor: Diagrams 103. Secondary HO2S 128. Primary HO2S ('00 And Early Production '01) Page 10022 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: Page 8976 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 4038 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Page 2371 17. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 18. Measure voltage between idle stop switch 2P connector terminal No.2 and body ground. Is there battery voltage? YES - Repair open in the wire between the idle stop switch and G402. NO - Repair open in the wire between the ECM (A31) and the idle stop switch. Page 8311 123. Hatch Latch/Unlock Switch Page 932 Air Conditioning Switch: Testing and Inspection A/C Pressure Switch Circuit Troubleshooting 1. Disconnect the A/C pressure switch 4P connector. 2. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 3. Measure the voltage between the No. 1 terminal of the A/C pressure switch 4P connector and body ground. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 4. NO - Repair open in the wire between the A/C diode, the ECM and the A/C pressure switch. 4. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 5. Check for continuity between the No. 1 and No. 4 terminals of the A/C pressure switch. Is there continuity? YES - Go to step 6. NO - Go to step 10. 6. Reconnect the A/C pressure switch 4P connector. 7. Disconnect climate control unit connector B (22P). 8. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 9. Measure the voltage between the No. 17 terminal of climate control unit connector B (22P) and body ground. Page 4062 24. Remove the PGM-FI main relay (FUEL PUMP). 25. Remove the fuel tank. 26. Check for continuity between fuel pump 5P connector terminal No.5 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Repair short in the wire between the fuel pump and the PGM-FI main relay (FUEL PUMP). Also replace the No.2 (15 A) fuse. NO - Go to step 27. 27. Reinstall the PGM-FI main relay (FUEL PUMP). 28. Check for continuity between fuel pump 5P connector terminal No.5 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Replace the PGM-FI main relay (FUEL PUMP). Also replace the No.2 (15 A) fuse. NO - Check the fuel pump, and replace it if necessary. Also replace the No.2 (15 A) fuse. 29. Check for continuity between body ground and PGM-FI main relay diode 2P connector terminal No.2. Is there continuity? YES - Go to step 30. NO - Repair open in the wire between the PGM-FI main relay and G101. Connector Views 54. Radiator Fan Motor Page 9702 In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locater) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: - Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. PGM-FI Main Relay Circuit Troubleshooting Fuel Pump Relay: Testing and Inspection PGM-FI Main Relay Circuit Troubleshooting PGM-FI Main Relay Circuit Troubleshooting 1. Turn the ignition switch OFF, then disconnect the PGM-FI main relay connectors. 2. Check for continuity between body ground and PGM-FI main relay diode 2P connector terminal No.2. Is there continuity? YES - Go to step 3. NO - Repair open in the wire between the PGM-FI main relay and G101. 3. Measure voltage between body ground and PGM-FI main relay (IGP) 4P connector terminal No.2. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 5. NO - Go to step 4. 4. Check for a blown No.7 (15 A) fuse in the underhood fuse/relay box. Is the fuse blown? YES - Repair the short in the wire between the PGM-FI main relay and the No.7 (15 A) fuse. NO - Repair the open in the wire between the PGM-FI main relay and the No.7 (15 A) fuse. Page 5259 Page 8868 In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locater) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: - Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. Page 6566 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 1160 48. Left Side of Steering Column Page 921 125. Below Front of Engine Page 6920 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 4713 Fuel Injector: Service and Repair Injector Replacement 1. Relieve fuel pressure. 2. Remove the fuel rail cover (A), then disconnect the connectors from the fuel injectors (B). 3. Disconnect the vacuum hose and fuel return hose from the fuel pressure regulator (C). Place a rag or shop towel over the hoses before disconnecting them. 4. Remove the retainer nuts (D). 5. Disconnect the PCV valve (E). 6. Disconnect the fuel rail. 7. Remove the fuel injectors from the cylinder head (F). 8. Slide new cushion rings (A) onto the fuel injectors (B). 9. Coat new O-rings (C) with clean engine oil, and put them on the fuel injectors 10. Insert the fuel injectors into the fuel rail (D) first. Locations 23. Left Rear of Engine Compartment Page 2708 12. Install the IPU lid. Torque the bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb-ft). 13. Reinstall the right side trunk shelf support. Torque the bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb-ft). 14. Remove the battery module switch locking cover, and flip the switch to ON. Reinstall the locking cover. 15. Reinstall the battery module switch cover. 16. Reinstall the cargo floor mat. 17. Remove the No.15 (40A) fuse (EPS control unit) from the under-hood fuse/relay box. 18. With the transmission in Neutral, and the clutch released on M/T models, start the engine. Hold it at 3,500 rpm until the IMA battery level indicator shows at least 50 percent charge. 19. Turn off the engine, and reinstall the No.15 fuse. Disclaimer Page 872 26. Brake Pedal Position Switch Page 7328 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 1302 Knock Sensor: Service and Repair Replacement 1. Remove the throttle body. 2. Disconnect the knock sensor connector, then remove the knock sensor. 3. Install the knock sensor. 4. Install the throttle body. Page 9442 28. Cargo Area Light Page 6885 - Refer to the scrapping procedures for disposal of the damaged airbag. Page 4897 Wires Page 6760 ^ Loosen the front subframe bolts. See the applicable service manual for more information. NOTE: The front wheels are being viewed from the rear of the vehicle. ^ Depending which way you need to shift the subframe, insert a pry bar between the subframe and body at both the front and rear positions of the subframe. NOTE: Be careful not to damage the vehicle. You could bend and damage the frame and/or body if you apply too much pressure. ^ Press on both pry bars to shift the subframe. It will move only a few millimeters. This should adjust the camber about 0.2-0.5°. ^ While holding the subframe in place, have an assistant torque the subframe bolts to their proper torque. Front Camber Adjustment, Strut Suspension ^ Raise the vehicle, and remove the front tires. ^ Loosen the damper pinch bolts and the flange nuts. ^ Adjust the camber by moving the bottom of the damper within the range of the damper pinch bolt free play. NOTE: Some vehicles have special pinch bolts that allow more adjustment. For more information, refer to the parts catalog. ^ Tighten the damper pinch bolts to the specified torque. ^ Reinstall the front wheels and lower the vehicle. Bounce the front of the vehicle several times to stabilize the suspension. Page 2691 12. Install the IPU lid. Torque the bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb-ft). 13. Reinstall the right side trunk shelf support. Torque the bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb-ft). 14. Remove the battery module switch locking cover, and flip the switch to ON. Reinstall the locking cover. 15. Reinstall the battery module switch cover. 16. Reinstall the cargo floor mat. 17. Remove the No.15 (40A) fuse (EPS control unit) from the under-hood fuse/relay box. 18. With the transmission in Neutral, and the clutch released on M/T models, start the engine. Hold it at 3,500 rpm until the IMA battery level indicator shows at least 50 percent charge. 19. Turn off the engine, and reinstall the No.15 fuse. Disclaimer Page 3999 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Page 1137 84. Middle of Floor Page 7182 In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locater) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: - Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. Page 1594 Alignment: Service and Repair Wheel Alignment The suspension can be adjusted for front camber and front toe. However, each of these adjustments are interrelated to each other. For example, when you adjust camber, the toe changes. Therefore, you must adjust the front wheel alignment whenever you adjust camber or toe. Pre-Alignment Checks For proper inspection and adjustment of the wheel alignment, do these checks: 1. Release the parking brake to avoid an incorrect measurement. 2. Make sure the suspension is not modified. 3. Check the tire size and tire pressure. Tire size: Front/rear: 165/65R14 78S Tire pressure: Front: 260 kPa (2.6 kgf/cm2, 38 psi) Rear: 240 kPa (2.4 kgf/cm2, 35 psi) 4. Check the runout of the wheels and tires. 5. Check the suspension ball joints. Hold a wheel with your hands, and move it up and down and right and left to check for wobbling. 6. Bounce the vehicle up and down several times to stabilize the suspension. Front Caster Inspection Use commercially available computerized four wheel alignment equipment to measure wheel alignment (caster, camber, toe, and turning angle). Follow the equipment manufacturer's instructions. Check the caster angle. If the caster angle is not within the specification, check for bent or damaged suspension components. Front caster angle: 2°00' ± 1° Front Camber Inspection Use commercially available computerized four wheel alignment equipment to measure wheel alignment (caster, camber, toe, and turning angle). Follow the equipment manufacturer's instructions. Check the camber angle. If the camber angle is not within the specification, adjust the camber. Front camber angle: 0°00' ± 1° Front Camber Adjustment The front camber can be adjusted by exchanging one or both of the damper pinch bolts with the smaller diameter adjusting bolt(s). The difference between the adjusting bolt diameter and the pinch bolt hole diameter allows a small range of adjustment. Page 7950 Make sure the "Compilations" setting is switched off in the settings menu on the customer's iPod: - Go to the Main Menu. - Select Settings. - See Compilation. Is the "Compilations" setting switched off? Yes - There is a TTS software program error. Tell the customer to rerun the TTS software. No - Change the "Compilations" setting on the customer's iPod to off. Song/Artist is not categorized in the correct grouping when using Disc 1-4 search functions. Remind the customer that the TTS software must be run after any songs are changed on the iPod, and advise them to run the TTS software and retest the iPod search functions. Explain to the customer that once the TTS software has run: ^ If the iPod functions properly, there was an intermittent TTS software program error. ^ If the iPod does not function properly, direct the customer to contact Customer Service for assistance with TTS software loading problems. CUSTOMER INFORMATION NEEDED BEFORE CALLING HONDA'S CUSTOMER SERVICE DEPARTMENT Print this page, and give it to the customer if they are experiencing a ITS software-related issue. Direct them to answer the questions, then contact American Honda's Automobile Customer Service Department at (800) 999-1009. Customer Information Before calling customer service, go to http//musiclink.honda.com/Tech_Faq.html and view the technical FAQs and troubleshooting. Also, go to www.apple.com, select support, and view the technical FAQs and troubleshooting. Please have the following information ready when contacting customer service: ^ What is the main issue? ^ What type of iPod do you have? Refer to www.apple.com. ^ What version iPod firmware (unit software) is loaded? To find out what firmware (unit software) is loaded on the iPod: - Go to the Main Menu. - Select Settings. - Select About. ^ What version iTunes are you using on your home computer? ^ When you connect your iPod to the vehicle's Music Link connector, is the check mark displayed on your iPod display screen? ^ What type of computer do you have (Mac or PC)? ^ What operating system are you using? ^ Have you loaded the ITS software on your home computer? ^ Do you run the ITS software every time you connect your iPod to your home computer? Page 9699 All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416 etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector or by a capital letter (A, B, C etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Connector Views that shows the connector terminals wire colors connector cavity numbers and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints shown on diagram [8] . Except for the DLC (data link connector) disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554 for example means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Page 7934 178. Security LED (Honda Accessory) Locations Horn Relay: Locations Relay And Control Unit Location - Engine Compartment Page 4484 Terminals - "T" Shielding Switches Fuses Locations Body Control Module: Locations 109. Top Front of Battery Module 110. Top Rear of Battery Module Page 5766 Hydraulic Control Assembly - Antilock Brakes: Description and Operation ABS Modulator The ABS modulator consists of the inlet solenoid valve, outlet solenoid valve, reservoir, pump, pump motor, and the damping chamber. The modulator reduces the caliper fluid pressure directly. It is a circulating-type modulator because the brake fluid circulates through the caliper, reservoir, and the master cylinder. The hydraulic control has three modes: pressure intensifying, pressure retaining, and pressure reducing. The hydraulic circuit is an independent four-channel type, one channel for each wheel. Pressure intensifying mode ................................................................................................................. ................................................................ Inlet valve open, outlet valve closed; ........................................................................................................................................................... Master cylinder fluid is pumped out to the caliper. Pressure retaining mode ..................................................................................................................... .......................................................... Inlet valve closed, outlet valve closed. .............................................................................................................................................. Caliper fluid is retained by the inlet valve and outlet valve. Pressure reducing mode ..................................................................................................................... ............................................................ Inlet valve closed, outlet valve open. ............................................................................................................................................ Caliper fluid flows through the outlet valve to the reservoir. Motor operation mode ................................................................................................................................. When starting the pressure reducing mode, the pump motor is ON. .................................................................................................................................................. When stopping ABS operation, the pump motor is OFF. ............................................................................. The caliper fluid is pumped out by the pump, through the damping chamber, to the master cylinder. Page 6324 Fuse Block: Connector Views 174. Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box Part 1 Page 6313 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 832 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 10146 Number. See: Diagrams/Connector Views/Connector Views By View Number Page 8232 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. Page 9508 Connectors - "C" Page 3202 ECM Inputs and Outputs at Connector D (16P) Part 2 Page 4517 Variable Valve Timing Pressure Switch: Service and Repair VTEC Pressure Switch Replacement 1. Disconnect the VTEC pressure switch connector, then remove the VTEC pressure switch (A). 2. Install the VTEC pressure switch using a new O-ring (B). Page 8926 5. Door Switch, Driver's Or Passenger's Page 741 - Taillight relay Page 5007 Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution diagram set to get a more detailed picture of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Page 1177 Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow from power at the top of the diagram to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another for example is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors Page 9086 64. Check for continuity between ECM connector terminal B17 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Repair short in the wire between the DLC and the ECM (B17). NO - Update the ECM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM, replace the original ECM. 65. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 66. Disconnect ECM connector B (25P). 67. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). Is the MIL on? YES - Repair short in the wire between the gauge assembly and the ECM (B17). If the wires are OK, replace the gauge assembly. NO - Update the ECM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM, replace the original ECM. Page 6065 PARTS INFORMATION WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION NOTE: The IMA battery module warranty extension does not apply to any vehicle that has ever been declared a total loss, or any that has been issued a salvage, branded, or similar title under any state's law. Failed Part: P/N 1K000-PHM-000 Defect Code: 5KH00 Symptom Code: Q1600 Skill Level: Repair Technician REPAIR PROCEDURE NOTE: Do this procedure only if troubleshooting indicates a problem with the IMA battery module. 1. Turn the ignition switch to the LOCK (0) position. 2. Remove the cargo floor mat: ^ Refer to page 20-44 of the 2000-2006 Insight Service Manual, or ^ Online, enter keywords FLOOR MAT, then select Interior Trim Removal/Installation - Cargo Area from the list. Page 2625 PARTS INFORMATION WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION NOTE: The IMA battery module warranty extension does not apply to any vehicle that has ever been declared a total loss, or any that has been issued a salvage, branded, or similar title under any state's law. Failed Part: P/N 1K000-PHM-000 Defect Code: 5KH00 Symptom Code: Q1600 Skill Level: Repair Technician REPAIR PROCEDURE NOTE: Do this procedure only if troubleshooting indicates a problem with the IMA battery module. 1. Turn the ignition switch to the LOCK (0) position. 2. Remove the cargo floor mat: ^ Refer to page 20-44 of the 2000-2006 Insight Service Manual, or ^ Online, enter keywords FLOOR MAT, then select Interior Trim Removal/Installation - Cargo Area from the list. Campaign - ECM Update Engine Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins Campaign - ECM Update 00-042 April 5, 2000 Applies To: 2000 Insight - From VIN JHMZE1...YT000001 thru JHMZE1...YT000440 Product Update: Insight ECM BACKGROUND The engine may not start it the ambient temperature is below 0°F (-20°C). CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION All owners of affected vehicles will be mailed a notification of this campaign. An example of a customer notification is shown. CORRECTIVE ACTION Replace the ECM (engine control module) with an improved unit. After the ECM replacement, the immobilizer system must be reinitialized. Make sure you have all the customer's keys. Page 3941 Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution diagram set to get a more detailed picture of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Interior - Fabric Upholstery Wrinkle Information Seat Cover: Technical Service Bulletins Interior - Fabric Upholstery Wrinkle Information Use a Steamer to Smooth Out Fabric Upholstery A garment steamer and a stiff-bristle brush make a great team for removing those nasty wrinkles, lines, or impressions in fabric upholstery. You can buy an inexpensive, small, hand-held garment/ fabric steamer from a number of different manufacturers. Some of these units even come with a handy built-in brush. Once you've got your steamer, follow the manufacturer's instructions to get it ready for use. Then apply a generous amount of steam to the problem area. Keep the steamer moving slowly over the area until it's hot and moist. A Word of Caution: Go easy on the steam if you're cleaning the front passenger seat in a vehicle with side airbags. Moisture can adversely affect or damage the OPDS sensors in the seatback. While the area is hot and moist, use a stiff-bristle brush, or the built-in brush if your steamer has one, to work the fabric back and forth and up and down. Stubborn areas might need more steam and brushing, so be patient and stay with it. It's worth the effort. Page 8922 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. SRS Components Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Description and Operation SRS Components SRS Components The SRS is a safety device which, when used in conjunction with the seat belt, is designed to help protect the driver and passenger in a frontal impact exceeding a certain set limit. The system consists of the SRS unit, including a safing sensor and an impact sensor (A), the cable reel (B), the driver's airbag (C) and the passenger's airbag (D). The seat belt tensioner (E) is linked with the SRS airbags to further increase the effectiveness of the seat belt. In a front-end collision, the tensioner instantly retracts the belt firmly to secure the occupants in their seats. Page 5939 Page 3931 Wire Color Abbreviations Engine/Motor Controls - IMA Indicator ON/DTC's Set Motor Control Module (MCM): All Technical Service Bulletins Engine/Motor Controls - IMA Indicator ON/DTC's Set 02-035 July 23, 2002 Applies To: 2000 Insight - ALL 2001 Insight With M/T - From JHMZE13...1T00001 thru JHMZE13...1T01925 IMA Indicator Comes On With DTC 63 or P1448 (Supersedes 02-035, IMA System Stores DTC 63 or P1448, dated June 25, 2002) Updated information is shown by black bars and asterisks. SYMPTOM The IMA (Integrated Motor Assist) system indicator is on and DIG 63 (P1448) is stored in the MCM memory. PROBABLE CAUSE The MCM (motor control module) software incorrectly reports an IMA battery cooling problem. CORRECTIVE ACTION Replace the battery condition monitor module and the motor control module. PARTS INFORMATION ECU Module Kit: P/N 06060-PHM-305 H/C 6912901 WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. * Operation Number: 118122 * Flat Rate Time: 0.8 hour Failed Part: P/N 1K100-PHM-010 H/C 6377170 Defect Code: 032 Contention Code: C99 Template ID: 02-035A Skill Level: Repair Technician Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. DIAGNOSIS Hybrid System - IMA Battery Module Warranty Extension Technical Service Bulletin # 06-057 Date: 110316 Hybrid System - IMA Battery Module Warranty Extension 06-057 March 16, 2011 Applies To: 2000-04 Insight - See VEHICLES AFFECTED Warranty Extension: Insight IMA Battery Module (Supersedes 06-057, dated October 18, 2007, to revise the information marked by the black bars and asterisks) *REVISION SUMMARY Under WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION, some operation number and flat rate time information was changed.* BACKGROUND NOTE: Because of a class action settlement, the warranty extension coverage for the IMA battery module on 2002-04 Insights purchased or leased between April 13, 2002, and November 7, 2006, is now 10 years or 157,500 miles, whichever occurs first. For more information, refer to Service Bulletin 06-085 Warranty Extension: Vehicle Warranty Mileage. To ensure continued reliability with the IMA system, American Honda is announcing an IMA battery module warranty extension for certain 2000-04 Insights. The IMA battery module is now covered for 10 years or 150,000 miles, whichever occurs first. This warranty extension applies to the 43 states not already covered by Service Bulletin 06-027, Warranty Extension: IMA Battery VEHICLES AFFECTED This warranty extension affects 2000-04 Insights registered in the shaded states on this map*: *2000-04 Insights registered in Arizona, California, Colorado, Florida, Hawaii, Nevada, and Texas are covered by Service Bulletin 06-027, Warranty Extension: IMA Battery. CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION Owners of affected vehicles within the 43 affected states will receive a notification of this warranty extension. An example of the warranty extension notification is at the end of this service bulletin. To verify warranty extension eligibility, you must do a VIN status inquiry. CORRECTIVE ACTION Replace the IMA battery module if it has failed. In addition, replace the battery condition monitor and the motor control module on 2000-01 models or, on 2002-04 models, replace the battery condition monitor only. Page 2361 Fuel Pressure: Testing and Inspection Fuel Pressure Test Special Tools Required Fuel pressure gauge 07406-004000A M/T model: 1. Relieve the fuel pressure. 2. Remove the sealing nut from the fuel rail. Attach the fuel pressure adapter nut, 12 mm (A) and the fuel pressure gauge. 3. Disconnect the vacuum hose (C) from the fuel pressure regulator (D), and pinch it closed with a clamp (E). 4. Start the engine and let it idle. - If the engine starts, go to step 6. - If the engine does not start, go to step 5. 5. Check to see if the fuel pump is running: Remove the fuel fill cap, and hold your ear to the fuel fill port while an assistant turns the ignition switch ON (II). You should hear the pump run for about two seconds when the ignition is turned ON (II). If the fuel pump runs, make sure there is sufficient fuel in the tank, then go to step 6. - If the fuel pump does not run, test it. 6. Read the pressure gauge (with the fuel pressure regulator vacuum hose disconnected and clamped). The pressure should be 270 - 320 kPa (2.8 3.3 kgf/sq.cm, 40 - 47 psi). If the pressure is OK and engine is running, go to step 8. If the engine is not running, repair the cause, then continue this test. - If the pressure is out of spec, go to step 8. 7. With the engine running, unpinch and reconnect the vacuum hose and read the gauge again. The pressure should be 210 - 260 kPa (2.1 - 2.6 kgf/sq.cm, 30 - 37 psi). If the fuel pressure is OK, the test is complete, go to step 9. - If the pressure is out of spec, go to step 8. 8. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the pressure regulator again while you watch the pressure gauge. The pressure should rise when you disconnect the hose. If the pressure did not rise, replace the fuel pressure regulator. - If the pressure rose, but all your readings were lower than specified, check for a clogged fuel filter and for leaks in the fuel lines. - If the pressure rose, but all your readings were higher than specified, check for a pinched or clogged fuel return hose or line. 9. Reconnect the vacuum hose, remove the pressure gauge, and reinstall the sealing nut with a new washer. Tighten the sealing nut to 22 N.m (2.2 kgf.m, 16 lbf.ft). NOTE: Disassemble and clean the fuel pressure gauge attachment thoroughly after use. CVT model: 1. Relieve the fuel pressure. Page 7894 156. Keyless Door Lock Control Unit Page 6692 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. Page 8113 179. Disarm Switch (Honda Accessory) Adjustments Clutch Pedal Assembly: Adjustments Clutch Pedal and Clutch Switch Adjustment NOTE: The clutch is self-adjusting to compensate for wear. - If there is no clearance between the master cylinder piston and push rod, the release bearing is held against the diaphragm spring, which can result in clutch slippage or other clutch problems. 1. Loosen locknut (A), and back off the adjusting bolt (B) until it no longer touches the clutch pedal (C). 2. Loosen locknut (D), and turn the push rod (E) in or out to get the specified stroke (F) and height (G) at the clutch pedal. Clutch Pedal Stroke: 130 - 140 mm (5.12 - 5.51 inch) Clutch Pedal Height: 192 mm (7.56 inch) to the floor 3. Tighten locknut (D). 4. Turn the adjusting bolt (B) in until it contacts the clutch pedal (C). 5. Turn the adjusting bolt (B) in an additional 3/4 to 1 turn. 6. Tighten locknut (A). 7. Loosen locknut (H) and the clutch interlock switch (1). 8. Fully depress the clutch pedal. 9. Release the clutch pedal 15 - 20 mm (0.59 - 0.79 inch) from the fully depressed position, and hold it there. Adjust the position of the clutch interlock switch (1) so that the engine will start with the clutch pedal in this position. 10. Tighten locknut (H). Page 8543 Paint: Application and ID Paint Code and Color Label Location Paint / USA Paint / Canada Page 7140 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 2160 Rocker Arm Assembly: Testing and Inspection VTEC Rocker Arms Test Special Tools Required ^ Air pressure regulator 07AAJ-PNAA100 ^ VTEC air adapter 07VAJ-P8A010A 1. Remove the engine cover. 2. Remove the cylinder head cover. 3. Set the No. 1 piston at top dead center (TDC). 4. Move the primary rocker arm (A) for No. 1 cylinder. The primary rocker arm should move independently of the secondary rocker arm (B). ^ If the primary rocker arm does not move, remove the primary and secondary rocker arms as an assembly, and check that the piston in the secondary rocker arm moves smoothly. ^ If any rocker arm needs replacing, replace the primary and secondary rocker arms as an assembly. 5. Check that the air pressure on the shop air compressor gauge indicates over 400 kPa (4 kgf/cm2, 57 psi). 6. Inspect the valve clearance. 7. Remove a rocker shaft mounting bolt (A), then connect the VTEC air adapter (B) and the VTEC air pressure regulator (C) to the bolt hole. 8. Loosen the valve on the regulator, and apply the specified air pressure. Specified Air Pressure: 250 kPa (2.5 kgf/cm2, 36 psi) Service and Repair Valve Seat: Service and Repair For further information regarding this component and the system it is a part of, please refer to Cylinder Head Assembly; Service and Repair. Page 3499 Vehicle Speed Sensor: Description and Operation Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) The VSS is driven by the differential. It generates a pulsed signal from an input of 5 volts. The number of pulses per minute increases/decreases with the speed of the vehicle. Page 6077 6. Remove the right trunk shelf support (five clips and two bolts). 7. Remove the six mid-frame cover bolts. Remove the intelligent power unit (IPU) lid (17 bolts). 8. Measure the voltage at the junction board terminals. There should be 30 V or less. If you read more than 30 V, there is a problem in the circuit; do the DTC troubleshooting first. 9. Look at the part number on the motor control module (MCM), and refer to this chart. If there is a replacement part number listed for it, you need to order a replacement MCM. 10. Look at the part number on the battery condition monitor (BCM). If the part number is not 1K100-PHM-A01, you need to order a replacement BCM. Page 3011 101. Left Front Side of Battery Module Page 10005 Terminals - "T" Shielding Switches Fuses Page 6318 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. Front Wheelhouse / Damper House Front Fender Liner: Service and Repair Front Wheelhouse / Damper House Locations Radiator Cooling Fan Motor Relay: Locations Relay And Control Unit Location - Engine Compartment Page 3599 Spark Plug: Testing and Inspection Spark Plug Inspection/Replacement 1. Remove the spark plugs, and note which cylinder each one came from. 2. Inspect the electrodes and ceramic insulator. Burned or worn electrodes may be caused by: Advanced ignition timing - Loose spark plug - Insufficient cooling Fouled plug may be caused by: Retarded ignition timing - Oil in combustion chamber - Incorrect spark plug gap - Excessive idling/low speed running - Clogged air cleaner element - Deteriorated ignition coil 3. Do not adjust the gap of iridium tip plugs (A); replace the spark plug if the gap is out of specification. Electrode Gap: Standard (New): 1.0 - 1.1 mm (0.039 - 0.043 in.) Service Limit: 1.3 mm (0.051 in.) 4. Replace the plug at the specified interval, or if the center electrode is rounded (A). Page 6623 Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow from power at the top of the diagram to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another for example is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors Page 8581 4. With the connector still disconnected, make these input tests at the connector. - If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system. - If all the input tests prove OK, go to step 5. Locations Low Beam Relay: Locations Instrument Panel View Page 10028 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. Page 952 65. Behind Glove Box Page 5498 132. Valve Body (Remove) (CVT) Page 1096 Wire Color Abbreviations Page 1537 Defect Code: 07406 Symptom Code: 03602 Skill Level: Repair Technician Diagnostic Trouble Code: To create the 15-digit DTC, see the applicable repair procedure. Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. TOOL DESCRIPTIONS The holding force gauge measures the amount of pull on the vehicle. It is a bracket that counts as one weight, plus five removable weights. During the test-drive, attach the bracket and the weights to the steering wheel on the side opposite the pulling direction. For example, if the vehicle pulls to the right, attach the bracket and weights to the left side of the steering wheel. Start with the maximum amount of weight on the steering wheel, and remove the weights until the vehicle drives in a straight line. When recording the pull on the worksheet, write down the direction of the pull (lefi or right) and the number of weights required to balance the pull (one through six). For example, if you have the bracket and two weights on the steering wheel, then record this as three weights. NOTE: The bracket counts as one weight. Page 3990 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 5317 6. Inspect for warpage using a straight edge (A) and feeler gauge (B). Measure across the pressure plate (C). If the warpage is more than the service limit, replace the pressure plate. 7. Remove the clutch disc and special tools. 8. Inspect the lining of the clutch disc for signs of slipping or oil. If the clutch disc is burned black or oil soaked, replace it. 9. Measure the clutch disc thickness. If the thickness is less than the service limit, replace the clutch disc. Page 4283 ECM/PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector D (16P) Part 1 Locations Alarm/Immobilizer Control Unit: Locations Relay And Control Unit Locations - Dashboard 44. Under Left Side of Dash (Honda Accessory) Page 4552 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Campaign - Integrated Motor Assist Controller Update Technical Service Bulletin # 01-102 Date: 011127 Campaign - Integrated Motor Assist Controller Update 01-102 November 27, 2001 Applies To: 2000-01 Insight with M/T - See VEHICLES AFFECTED Product Update: IMA Controller Modification BACKGROUND The IMA (Integrated Motor Assist) system supplies power to various 12-volt loads on the vehicle (lights, radio, windows, etc.) and assists the engine to improve vehicle performance. In very cold weather, power demands on the IMA battery module can exceed output, causing permanent damage to the battery module. VEHICLES AFFECTED Not all 2000-01 Insights with M/T are affected by this product update. Only vehicles that are registered and normally driven in cold weather areas are affected. Before you begin, verify that the vehicle is registered in one of the states affected by the update (see the map). Then check for vehicle eligibility by doing one of the following. ^ Verify that the customer has a notification letter. ^ Check the vehicle's VIN on your campaign responsibility report. ^ Do a VIN status inquiry on DCS. CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION All owners of affected vehicles will be sent a notification of this product update. An example of the customer notification. CORRECTIVE ACTION Replace the battery condition monitor (BCM) module and the motor control module (MCM). PARTS INFORMATION Page 1381 Camshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation Camshaft Position (CMP) A and B (Top Dead Center (TDC) 1 and 2), and Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensors The CMPA (TDC 1) and CMPB (TDC 2) sensors detect the position of the No.1 cylinder as a reference for sequential fuel injection to each cylinder. The CKP sensor detects engine speed and determines ignition timing and timing for fuel injection of each cylinder. Page 8382 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. Page 1809 Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box Part 2 Page 2452 8. Check for continuity between the No. 1 terminal of the radiator fan connector and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Replace the radiator fan motored NO - Check for an open in the BLK wire between the radiator fan connector and body ground. If the wire is OK, check for a poor ground at G301. 9. Reinstall the radiator fan relay. 10. Disconnect the radiator fan switch connector. Jump terminals 1 and 2 to see if the fan runs. Does the fan run? YES - Replace the radiator fan switch. NO - Go to step 11. 11. Remove the jumper, and measure the voltage between the No. 2 terminal on the radiator fan switch connector and body ground. Is there battery voltage? YES - Check for an open in the BLK wire between the radiator fan switch connector and body ground. If the wire is OK, check for a poor ground at G101. NO - Repair open in the GRN wire and BLU/RED wire between the radiator fan switch connector and under-hood fuse/relay box. With A/C Radiator Fan Circuit Troubleshooting (with A/C) 1. Check the No. 11 (30 A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box. Is the fuse OK? YES - Go to step 2. NO - Replace the fuse and recheck. 2. Remove the radiator fan relay from the under-hood fuse/relay box, and test it. Is the relay OK? YES - Go to step 3. NO - Replace the radiator fan relay. Page 3885 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. Recall 04V086000: Headlamp Switch/Connector Defect Headlamp Switch: All Technical Service Bulletins Recall 04V086000: Headlamp Switch/Connector Defect DEFECT: On certain passenger vehicles, the low-beam terminal on the head light wire harness can overheat and could cause the low beams to fail without warning. An unexpected loss of low beams could result in a crash. REMEDY: Dealers will inspect the head light switch and coupler for signs of heat damage. If heat damage is present, the dealer will replace the switch and coupler. If no heat damage is present, the dealer will replace the head light switch and one mating pin in the coupler. The manufacturer has reported that owner notification was to begin on April 5, 2004 . Owners may contact Honda at 1-800-999-1009. Page 10347 20. Right Rear of Engine Compartment Page 1087 3. Using the tool, loosen the fuel pump locknut (A), and remove the fuel pump. 4. Measure the resistance between the No.1 and No.2 terminals with the float at E (EMPTY), 1/2 (HALF FULL), and F (FULL) positions. If you do not get the given readings, replace the fuel gauge sending unit (A). 5. Install the pants in the reverse order of removal with a new base gasket and new quick connect retainers, then check these items: Page 9219 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Locations Page 337 DTC P1679 thru P1860 Page 627 Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Description and Operation PGM-FI Main Relay The PGM-FI main relay contains two separate relays. One is energized whenever the ignition is on which supplies battery voltage to the ECM, power to the fuel injectors, and power for the fuel cut relay. The fuel cut relay is energized to supply power to the fuel pump for 2 seconds when the ignition is switched ON (II), and when the engine is running. Hybrid System - IMA Battery Exchange Program Information Battery Module: All Technical Service Bulletins Hybrid System - IMA Battery Exchange Program Information 10-061 March 25, 2011 Applies To: 2000 and Later Hybrid Vehicles - ALL IMA Battery Exchange Program (Supersedes 10-061, dated October 8, 2010, to revise the information marked by the asterisks.) *REVISION SUMMARY Under DIAGNOSIS, Service Technician, a reference was added to Service Bulletin 10-083, IMA Battery Software and Hardware Updates.* COVERAGE This bulletin applies to all Honda IMA batteries, both in-warranty and out-of-warranty. COMPONENT REPLACEMENT POLICY Only remanufactured IMA battery modules are available for repair; new units are not available. Any internal failure requiring IMA battery module disassembly qualifies for this program. Follow the warranty information and procedures given in this service bulletin. NOTE: ^ On out-of-warranty repairs, make sure to tell the customer that new units are not available and that a remanufactured IMA battery module is used. ^ While Honda remanufactured batteries may reuse some components, the battery cells are replaced with new parts. WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION The normal warranty applies. Operation Number: 1181H5 Flat Rate Time: From the Flat Rate Manual Failed Part: Use the part number from the parts catalogue (example: 1D010-RMX-X01). Defect Code: 03214 Symptom Code: 01201 Part used for repair: Use the RM part number located at the bottom of the battery order form, or the order status inquiry screen (example: 1D100-RMX-X05RM). DIAGNOSIS Service Advisor: Interview the customer to get as much information as possible, such as where and when the symptom occurs. This information is vital to the diagnosis, and it also helps determine whether there is a problem with the IMA system. Write the complaint on the repair order. Service Technician: 1. Confirm the problem using the customer information written on the repair order or have the customer demonstrate the problem, then write down the results on the repair order. Page 165 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. Locations Instrument Panel View Page 6126 16. With the help of an assistant, lift the battery module out of the vehicle, and carefully set it down on a flat surface. 17. Install the new battery module in the reverse order of removal (steps 16, 15, 14, 13, 12, and 11). 18. Install a new BCM (2002-04 Insights) ora new BCM and MCM (2000-01 Insights): ^ Remove the mounting bolts. ^ Disconnect the connectors: The BCM has three the MCM has five. ^ Remove the module(s). ^ Install the new module(s) in the reverse order of removal, and torque the mounting bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb-ft). 19. Reinstall the foam insert. 20. Reinstall the IPU lid. Torque the bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb.ft). 21. Reinstall the under-cover (two bolts, two clips, and three screw clips.) Torque the bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb.ft). 22. Remove the battery module switch locking cover, flip the switch to ON, then reinstall the locking cover. 23. Reinstall the battery module switch cover. 24. Reinstall the rear clips on the middle bulkhead carpet. 25. Reinstall the cargo floor mat. 26. Check for and clear any DTCs with the HDS. Page 139 Wires Page 5275 Shift Interlock Solenoid: Diagrams 186. Inhibitor Solenoid (CVT) 187. Shift Lock Solenoid (CVT) Page 5156 29. CKP Sensor Page 10252 Quarter Glass Trim, Clip, Rubber Dam, and Fastener Installation - After installing the quarter glass trim onto the quarter glass, attach the clips with adhesive tape onto the inside face of the quarter glass. - Starting at the upper portion, attach the rubber dam with adhesive tape around the edge of the quarter glass. - After installing the fastener with adhesive tape onto the quarter glass, install the fastener of the body side onto the attached fastener. Just before installing the quarter glass, peel the adhesive backing off of the body side of the fastener. Body Primer Application Diagram Information and Instructions Alarm/Immobilizer Control Unit: Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System Terminal Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown below is #6. Page 383 DTC P1679 thru P1860 Page 2322 Wires Page 954 Evaporator Temperature Sensor / Switch: Description and Operation Evaporator Temperature Sensor The evaporator temperature sensor is located on the evaporator housing. It the temperature at the evaporator gets too cold, the evaporator temperature sensor sends a signal to the climate control unit to turn off the A/C compressor clutch. This prevents condensation from freezing on the evaporator fins and blocking air delivery into the passenger compartment. Page 7767 Seat Belt Reminder Lamp: Diagnostic Aids Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Page 8595 102. Hatch Opener Relay Page 833 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Locations 41. Under Left Side of Dash Page 9451 Center Mounted Brake Lamp: Service and Repair High Mount Brake Light Replacement 1. Remove the screw covers (A) and the mounting screws from the high mount brake light (B). 2. Disconnect the connectors (C), then remove the high mount brake light. Page 2967 Failed Part: P/N 1K000-PHM-000 Defect Code: 03214 Symptom Code: 03205 Skill Level: Repair Technician INSPECTION PROCEDURE 1. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 2. Remove the cargo floor mat (see page 20-44 of the 2000-04 Insight Service Manual). (In ISIS, use the keyword FLOOR MAT, and select Interior Trim Removal/Installation - Cargo Area from the list.) 3. Remove the battery module switch cover (two bolts), then remove the locking cover from the switch. 4. Flip the battery module switch to OFF. Reinstall the locking cover. 5. Wait at least 5 minutes to let the capacitors in the system discharge. Page 1294 45. IAT Sensor Page 4546 EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 4714 11. Coat new seal rings (E) with clean engine oil, and press them into the cylinder head. 12. To prevent damage to the O-rings, install the fuel injectors in the fuel rail first, then install them in the cylinder head. 13. Install and tighten the retainer nuts. 14. Connect the fuel hose to the fuel rail with new washers. 15. Connect the vacuum hoses and fuel return hose to the fuel pressure regulator. 16. Connect the PCV valve. 17. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), but do not operate the starter. After the fuel pump runs for approximately two seconds, the fuel pressure in the fuel line rises. Repeat this two or three times, then check whether there is any fuel leakage. Page 9183 Dimmer Switch: Electrical Diagrams Page 6581 162. C105 (Junction Connector) 202. C107 (Junction Connector) (CVT) Page 3180 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 1208 Hazard Warning Switch: Service and Repair Hazard Warning Switch Test/Replacement 1. Remove the instrument panel. 2. Disconnect the 10P connector (A) from the hazard warning switch (B). 3. Remove the two screws from the switch. 4. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table. 5. If the continuity check is not as specified, replace the illumination bulb (B) or the switch. Locations Page 3277 Page 2186 Drive Belt: Testing and Inspection Water Pump-A/C Compressor Belt Inspection and Adjustment Special Tools Required Belt tension gauge 07JGG-001010A Belt Tension Gauge Method Inspection 1. Remove the right rear splash shield. 2. Attach the belt tension gauge to the belt, and measure the tension. Follow the gauge manufacturer's instructions. If the belt is worn or damaged, replace it. If the belt needs adjustment, go to step 3. Tension: Used Belt: 390 - 540 N (40 - 55 kgf, 88 - 121 lbs) New Belt: 930 - 1,130 N (95 - 115 kgf, 209 - 254 lbs) Adjustment 3. Loosen the idler pulley center nut (A). 4. Turn the adjusting bolt (B) to obtain the proper belt tension, then retighten the idler pulley center nut. 5. Recheck the belt tension. 6. If you installed a new belt, run the engine for five minutes, then readjust the belt to the used belt specification. Deflection Method Inspection 1. Apply a force of 98 N (10 kgf, 22 lbs), and measure the deflection at the mid point (A) between the water pump and crankshaft pulleys. If the belt is worn or damaged, replace it. If the belt needs adjustment, go to step 2. Deflection: Locations Door Switch: Locations 85. Left B-pillar 90. Right B-pillar Page 1983 In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locater) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: - Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. Page 5991 35. Left Rear of Engine Compartment Page 7559 53. Right Side of Steering Column Page 4683 Splices Components Ground - "G" Page 2517 Radiator: Testing and Inspection Test 1. Wait until the engine is cool, then carefully remove the radiator cap and fill the radiator with engine coolant to the top of the filler neck. 2. Attach the pressure tester (A)(commercially available) to the radiator. 3. Apply a pressure of 93 123 kPa (0.95 - 1.25 kgf/cm2, 14 - 18 psi). 4. Inspect for engine coolant leaks and a drop in pressure. 5. Remove the tester and reinstall the radiator cap. 6. Check for engine oil in the coolant and/or coolant in the engine oil. Page 257 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 7589 Solar Sensor: Testing and Inspection Sunlight Sensor Test Turn the ignition switch ON (II). Measure the voltage between the terminals with the (+) probe on the No. 1 terminal and the (-) probe on the No. 2 terminal with the 2P connector connected. The voltage reading will not change under the light of a flashlight or a fluorescent lamp. Voltage should be: - 3.6 - 3.7 V or more with the sensor out of direct sunlight. - 3.6 - 3.5 V or less with the sensor in direct sunlight. Page 9416 Diodes How to Identify Wiring Color-Coded Insulation Wire Color Page 84 Relay And Control Unit Locations - Floor And Rear Page 7010 - Weld the front wheelhouse. - Weld the wheelhouse upper member. Page 4059 Malfunction Indicator Lamp: Testing and Inspection MIL Circuit Troubleshooting 1. Connect an OBD II scan tool/Honda PGM Tester. 2. Turn the ignition switch ON (II) and read the OBD II scan tool/Honda PGM Tester. Does the OBD II scan tool/Honda PGM Tester communicate with the ECM? YES - Go to step 3. NO - Go to troubleshooting "DLC Circuit Troubleshooting". 3. Check the OBD II scan tool/Honda PGM Tester for DTCs Are any DTCs indicated? YES - Go to the DTC Troubleshooting Index. See: Testing and Inspection/Diagnostic Trouble Code Descriptions NO - Go to step 4. 4. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 5. Turn the ignition switch ON (II) and watch the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL). Does the MIL come on and stay on for more than 20 seconds after turning the ignition switch ON (II)? YES - If the MIL always comes on and stays on, go to step 61. But if the MIL sometimes works normally, first check for these problems. An intermittent short in the wire between the ECM (B17) and the Data Link Connector (DLC). - An intermittent short in the wire between the ECM (A18) and the gauge assembly. NO - If the MIL is always off, go to step 6. But if the MIL sometimes works normally, first check for these problems. A loose No.6 (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box. - A loose No.1 (50 A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box. - A loose No.7 (15 A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box. - A loose No.2 (15 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box. - A poor connection at ECM terminal A18. - An intermittent open in the GRN/ORN wire between the ECM (A18) and the gauge assembly. - An intermittent short in the wire between the ECM (C19) and the manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor. - An intermittent short in the wire between the ECM (C28) and the throttle position (TP) sensor, brake booster pressure sensor, fuel tank pressure (FTP) sensor, exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) valve position sensor. - An intermittent short in the wire between the ECM (B6) and the TCM. 6. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 7. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). Is the low oil pressure light on? YES - Go to step 10. NO - Go to step 8. 8. Inspect the No.6 (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box. Is the fuse OK? YES - Go to step 9. NO - Repair short in the wire between the No.6 (7.5 A) fuse and the gauge assembly. Also replace the No.6 (7.5 A) fuse. 9. Inspect the No.1 (50 A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box. Is the fuse OK? YES - Repair open in the wire between the No.1 (50 A) fuse and the gauge assembly. If the wires are OK, test the ignition switch. NO - Repair short in the wire between the No.1 (50 A) fuse and the under-dash fuse/relay box. Also replace the No.1 (50 A) fuse. Page 6699 Relay Box: Connector Views 174. Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box Part 1 Page 9485 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 2715 9. Remove the Intelligent Power Unit (IPU) lid (six Torx bolts and 17 hex bolts). 10. Measure the voltage between the junction board terminals. There should be 10 volts or less. ^ If you have more than 10 volts, there is a problem in the IMA system. Look for and troubleshoot any DTCs before continuing. ^ If you have 10 volts or less, continue to step 11. 11. Lift the foam insert out of the battery module. Page 7637 Disposal of Damaged Components Disposal of Damaged Components 1. If installed in a vehicle, follow the removal procedure for the driver's airbag, front passenger's airbag, side airbag, seat belt tensioner, and seat belt buckle tensioner. 2. In all cases, make a short circuit by cutting, stripping, and twisting together the two inflator wires. NOTE: The driver's and passenger's airbag each have four wires: twist each pair of like-colored wires together 3. Package the component in the same packaging that the new replacement part came in. 4. Mark the outside of the box "DAMAGED AIRBAG NOT DEPLOYED", "DAMAGED SIDE AIRBAG NOT DEPLOYED", "DAMAGED SEAT BELT TENSIONER NOT DEPLOYED" or "DAMAGED SEAT BELT BUCKLE TENSIONER NOT DEPLOYED" so it does not get confused with your parts stock. 5. Contact your Honda District Service Manager for how and where to return it for disposal. Page 333 DTC P0979 thru P1193 Locations 35. Left Rear of Engine Compartment Description and Operation Air Conditioning Switch: Description and Operation A/C Switch The A/C (air conditioning) switch signals the PCM/ECM whenever there is a demand for cooling. Page 10237 Moldings, Rubber Dam, Clips, and Spacers Installation - To attach the molding, apply a light coat of primer to the areas between the alignment marks on the tower rear window, and attach the molding with urethane adhesive and adhesive tape and the side molding with adhesive tape. - Attach the rubber dam, the clips, and the spacers with adhesive tape. - Be sure the rubber dam, clips, and spacers line up with the alignment marks. Body Primer Application Page 6398 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. Page 5171 9. Knock Sensor Page 1518 139. Wiper/Washer Switch Page 1226 47. Steering Wheel (Airbag Removed) Page 2409 Valve Clearance: Adjustments Adjustment NOTE: Adjust the valves only when the cylinder head temperature is less than 100°F (38°C). 1. Remove the engine cover. 2. Remove the cylinder head cover. 3. Set the No. 1 piston at top dead center (TDC). No. 1 piston TDC mark (A) on the camshaft sprocket should align with the cylinder head surface. 4. Select the correct thickness feeler gauge for the valves you're going to check. Intake: 0.18 - 0.22 mm (0.007 - 0.009 inch) Exhaust: 0.21 - 0.25 mm (0.008 - 0.010 inch) Adjusting screw location: 5. Insert the feeler gauge (A) between the adjusting screw and the end of the valve stem and slide it back and forth; you should feel a slight amount of drag. Page 1859 Diodes How to Identify Wiring Color-Coded Insulation Wire Color Page 7316 - Taillight relay Component Locations Power Door Lock Switch: Component Locations Power Door Locks - Component Location Index Page 1985 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. Page 2036 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 9041 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: - Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest OHMS" range. Page 3350 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 4249 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. Service and Repair Brake Bleeding: Service and Repair Brake System Bleeding NOTE: ^ Do not reuse the drained fluid. ^ Always use Honda DOT 3 Brake Fluid. Using a non-Honda brake fluid can cause corrosion and decrease the life of the system. ^ Make sure no dirt or other foreign matter is allowed to contaminate the brake fluid. ^ Do not spill brake fluid on the vehicle, it may damage the paint; if brake fluid does contact the paint, wash it off immediately with water. ^ The reservoir on the master cylinder must be at the MAX (upper) level mark at the start of the bleeding procedure and checked after bleeding each brake caliper or wheel cylinder. Add fluid as required. 1. Make sure the brake fluid level in the reservoir is at the MAX (upper) level line (A). 2. Have someone slowly pump the brake pedal several times, then apply steady pressure. 3. Starting at the left-front, loosen the brake bleed screw to allow air to escape from the system. Then tighten the bleed screw securely. 4. Repeat the procedure for each wheel in the sequence shown until air bubbles no longer appear in the fluid. Page 417 Page 8739 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. Page 6421 Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box Page 5741 50. Neutral Position Switch (M/T) Page 2898 Failed Part: P/N 1K000-PHM-000 Defect Code: 03214 Symptom Code: 03205 Skill Level: Repair Technician INSPECTION PROCEDURE 1. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 2. Remove the cargo floor mat (see page 20-44 of the 2000-04 Insight Service Manual). (In ISIS, use the keyword FLOOR MAT, and select Interior Trim Removal/Installation - Cargo Area from the list.) 3. Remove the battery module switch cover (two bolts), then remove the locking cover from the switch. 4. Flip the battery module switch to OFF. Reinstall the locking cover. 5. Wait at least 5 minutes to let the capacitors in the system discharge. Locations Ignition Coil: Locations 16. Rear of Engine Ignition System - Component Location Index Page 3188 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. Page 2129 Crankshaft: Testing and Inspection End Play Inspection Connecting Rod and Crankshaft End Play Inspection 1. Remove the cam chain. 2. Measure the connecting rod end play with a feeler gauge between the connecting rod and crankshaft. Connecting Rod End Play: Standard (New): 0.15 - 0.30 mm (0.006 - 0.012 inch) Service Limit: 0.40 mm (0.016 inch) 3. If the connecting rod end play is out-of-tolerance, install a new connecting rod, and recheck. If it is still out-of-tolerance; replace the crankshaft. 4. Push the crankshaft firmly away from the dial indicator, and zero the dial against the end of the crankshaft. Then pull the crankshaft firmly back toward the indicator; the dial reading should not exceed the service limit. Crankshaft End Play: Standard (New): 0.10 - 0.35 mm (0.004 - 0.014 inch) Service Limit: 0.45 mm (0.018 inch) 5. If end play is excessive, replace the thrust washers and recheck. If it is still out-of-tolerance, replace the crankshaft. Page 2024 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. Page 7901 Page 3765 DTC P0750 thru P0977 Rear Window Wiper Motor - Radio Static Wiper Motor: Customer Interest Rear Window Wiper Motor - Radio Static 00-043 April 5, 2000 Applies To: 2000 Insight - From VIN JHMZE1...YT000001 thru JHMZE1...YT000569 Product Update: Insight Rear Window Wiper Motor BACKGROUND Because the rear window wiper motor is not adequately grounded, static is developed on AM radio stations when the wiper is operating. CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION All owners of affected vehicles will be mailed a notification of this product update. The text of the customer notification is at the end of this service bulletin. CORRECTIVE ACTION Add a grounding sub-harness to the rear window wiper motor. PARTS INFORMATION Sub-harness Kit: P/N 06320-S3Y-000, H/C 6441109 WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION Operation Number: 741104 Flat Rate Time: 0.5 hour Failed Part: P/N 76710-S3Y-A01 H/C 6350052 Defect Code: 546 Contention Code: K86 Template ID: 00-043A Skill Level: Repair Technician REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Open the rear hatch. Remove the two trim panel clips next to the striker. 2. Use a flat-tip screwdriver wrapped with tape or a cloth to remove the rear hatch trim panel. 3. Unclip the connector retaining clip from the wiper motor mounting bracket. Page 8944 Gauges - Component Location Index Page 6926 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. Page 140 Connectors - "C" Music Link(R) - System Information/Diagnostics Technical Service Bulletin # 07-012 Date: 070216 Music Link(R) - System Information/Diagnostics 07-012 February 16, 2007 Applies To: ALL - with accessory Music Link installed Music Link (For iPod) General Information and Symptom Troubleshooting BACKGROUND Honda Music Link is a Honda accessory designed to let the customer play music from an Apple(R) ipod(R) through the vehicle's audio system. The basic Music Link kit includes the Music Link interface unit, an audio unit bus cable, the Music Link harness, a CD-ROM, and the Quick Reference Guide. The CD-ROM includes a detailed User's Guide and some optional ITS (text-to-speech) software that lets the customer play music by playlist, artist, album, or genre. ^ The CD-ROM is for home computer use only. Do not insert it into a vehicle CD player. ^ Quick Reference Guides, User's Guides, and the latest TTS software versions can be downloaded from http://musiclink.honda.com. ^ For customer assistance and questions regarding TTS software loading, have the customer contact American Honda's Automobile Customer Service Department. The GENERAL INFORMATION section of this service bulletin covers these subjects: ^ Music Link iPod Information Resources ^ Resources for Installation Instructions ^ Music Link First-Use Information ^ iPod Reset Procedure Information The TROUBLESHOOTING section includes troubleshooting for these symptoms: ^ Check mark is not shown on the iPod display screen, radio will not switch to CD-C or CD-4 mode. ^ Static, or weak or no volume over speakers only in Music Link mode. ^ Music Link has no sound, check mark is shown on the iPod display screen. ^ Music Link has no sound, the disc number and track number flashes on the audio display. ^ Check mark is shown on the iPod display screen, radio will not switch to CD-C or CD-4 mode. ^ iPod music and XM radio music play at the same time (Pilot). ^ Music Link will not do Disc 1-4 search functions. ^ Artist is not categorized in the correct grouping when using (Disc 2) search function. ^ Song/artist is not categorized in the correct grouping when using Disc 1-4 search functions. PARTS INFORMATION Bus Harness: P/N 08-8-1H1-10030, H/C 8387060 Music Link Harness: P/N 08-8-1H1-10031, H/C 8387052 2-Port Bus Harness: Page 2949 High/Low Speed Battery Module Fan Control Relay: Diagrams 113. Battery Module Fan Control Relay, High Speed & Battery Module Fan Control Relay, Low Speed 114. MPI Module Fan Control Relay, High Speed; High Voltage Contactor Relay; Ignition Hold Relay; And MPI Module Fan Control Relay, Low Speed Page 886 129. Right Rear Underside of Vehicle (Left Similar) Page 3998 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 3129 DTC U0100 thru U1288 Disclaimer Page 9445 Cargo Lamp: Testing and Inspection Cargo Area Light Test/Replacement 1. Turn the cargo area light switch OFF. 2. Carefully pry off the lens (A) with a small screw driver. 3. Carefully remove the light housing (B). 4. Disconnect the 2P connector (C) from the light. 5. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table. 6. If the continuity is not as specified, check the bulb. If the bulb is OK, replace the light. 7. If the continuity check is not as specified, replace the cargo area light. Page 10127 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: - Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest OHMS" range. Page 9137 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. Page 4217 DTC P1679 thru P1860 Page 8802 Wires Page 10368 139. Wiper/Washer Switch Page 2942 Page 2011 Splices Components Ground - "G" Diagram Information and Instructions Relay Box: Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System Terminal Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown below is #6. Page 10135 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: Page 9076 Malfunction Indicator Lamp: Description and Operation Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) Indication (In relation to Readiness Codes) The vehicle has certain "readiness codes" that are part of the on-board diagnostics for the emissions systems. If the vehicle's battery has been disconnected or gone dead, these codes are reset. In some states, part of the emissions testing is to make sure these codes are set to complete. If all of them are not set to complete, the vehicle may fail the test. To check if the readiness codes are set, turn the ignition switch ON (II), but do not start the engine. The MIL will come of for 15 - 20 seconds. If it then goes off, the readiness codes are set. If it blinks several times, one or more readiness codes are not set to complete. To set each code, drive the vehicle or run the engine as described in the procedures to set them in this section. Page 2930 9. Measure voltage at the junction board terminals. ^ If the reading is 30 V or less, the capacitors are discharged enough for you to continue; go to step 10. ^ If the reading is more than 30 V, there is a problem with the IMA system. Troubleshoot the system using the IMA section of the service manual, then continue with this procedure. 10. Lift out the battery module foam insert. 11. Replace the BCM (2002-04 Insights) or the BCM and the MCM (2000-01 Insights): ^ Remove the mounting bolts. ^ Disconnect the connectors: The BCM has three; the MCM has five. Page 564 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: Page 8817 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. Page 2994 Motor Control Module (MCM): Diagrams 173. MCM Part 1 Page 5772 Wheel Speed Sensor: Diagrams 68. Wheel Speed Sensor, Left Front 68. Wheel Speed Sensor, Left Front 68. Wheel Speed Sensor, Left Front Page 6345 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Air Bag Disarming and Arming Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Service and Repair Air Bag Disarming and Arming General Precautions Please read the following precautions carefully before performing the airbag system service. Observe the instructions described or the airbags could accidentally deploy and cause damage or injuries. Except when performing electrical inspections, always turn the ignition switch OFF and disconnect the negative cable from the battery, and wait at least three minutes before beginning work. NOTE: The contents in the memory is not erased even if the ignition switch is turned OFF or the battery cables are disconnected from the battery. Use the replacement parts which are manufactured to the same standards as the original parts and quality. Do not install used SRS parts from another vehicle. Use only new parts when making SRS repairs. Carefully inspect any SRS part before you install it. Do not install any part that shows signs of being dropped or improperly handled, such as dents, cracks or deformation. Before removing any of the SRS parts (including the disconnection of the connectors), always disconnect the SRS connector. Use only a digital multimeter to check the system. If it is not a Honda multimeter, make sure its output is 10 mA (0.01 A) or less when switched to the lowest value in the ohmmeter range. A tester with a higher output could cause accidental deployment and possible injury. Do not put objects on the front passenger's airbag. The original radio has a coded theft protection circuit. Be sure to get the customer's radio code before disconnecting the battery cable. Page 5358 6. Inspect for warpage using a straight edge (A) and feeler gauge (B). Measure across the pressure plate (C). If the warpage is more than the service limit, replace the pressure plate. 7. Remove the clutch disc and special tools. 8. Inspect the lining of the clutch disc for signs of slipping or oil. If the clutch disc is burned black or oil soaked, replace it. 9. Measure the clutch disc thickness. If the thickness is less than the service limit, replace the clutch disc. Page 5938 11. Center-punch a completion mark above the tenth character of the engine compartment VIN. Disclaimer Page 2721 ECU Module Kit: P/N 06060-PHM-305, H/C 6912901 WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION Operation Number: 118121 Flat Rate Time: 0.8 hour Failed Part: P/N 1K100-PHM-010 H/C 6377170 Defect Code: 5AG Contention Code: L43 Template ID: 01-102A Skill Level: Repair Technician Disclaimer Repair Procedure 1. Write down the radio station presets. 2. Make sure the ignition switch is off, then disconnect the negative cable from the under-hood 12 V battery. 3. Remove the cargo floor mat and the cargo box (see page 20-43 of the 2000 Insight Service Manual). 4. Remove the battery module switch cover, then remove the locking cover from the switch. 5. Turn off the battery module switch. Reinstall the locking cover on the switch, and remove the 5 mm bolt on the side of the switch. 6. Wait at least 5 minutes for the capacitors in the system to discharge. Page 3359 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. Component Locations Power Door Lock Actuator: Component Locations Power Door Locks - Component Location Index Exploded Views 179. Disarm Switch (Honda Accessory) Page 5525 12. Mark a position (A) on the band 10 - 14 mm (0.4 - 0.6 inch) from the clip (B). 13. Thread the free end of the band through the nose section of the commercially available boot band tool KD-3191 or equivalent (A), and into the slot on the winding mandrel (B). 14. Place a wrench on the winding mandrel of the boot band tool, and tighten the band until the marked spot (C) on the band meets the edge of the clip. 15. Lift up the boot band tool to bend the free end of the band 90 degrees to the clip. Center-punch the clip, then fold over the remaining tail onto the clip. Locations Turn Signal Relay: Locations Turn Signal/Hazard Flasher Page 1781 - Refer to the scrapping procedures for disposal of the damaged airbag. Diagram Information and Instructions Variable Valve Timing Solenoid: Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System Terminal Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown below is #6. Page 3794 18. Remove the EPS fuse from the under-hood fusel relay box. 19. With the transmission in neutral and the clutch released, run the engine at 3,500 rpm until the battery level indicator shows at least 50 percent charge. 20. Turn off the engine, then install the EPS fuse. 21. Enter the radio station presets, and set the clock. 22. Center-punch a completion mark above the sixth character of the engine compartment VIN. Locations Wheel Speed Sensor: Locations 1. Right Side of Engine Compartment 34. Left Side of Engine Compartment Page 10193 Doors - Component Location Index Page 9247 Wire Color Abbreviations Page 1124 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 9970 60. Middle of Dash Page 1227 8. Horn Switch Page 7548 Is there battery voltage? YES - Check for loose wires or poor connections at climate control unit connector B (22P) and at the A/C pressure switch 4P connector. If the connections are good, substitute a known-good climate control unit, and recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away, replace the original climate control unit. NO - Repair open in the wire between the climate control unit and the A/C pressure switch. 10. Check for proper A/C system pressure. Is the pressure within specifications? YES - Replace the A/C pressure switch. NO - Repair the A/C pressure problem. Locations Crankshaft Position Sensor: Locations PGM-FI System - Component Location Index Page 406 DTC P1586 thru P1678 Page 900 34. ECT Sensor Page 6875 125. EPS Torque Sensor Page 9512 Wire Color Coding Distinct Of Circuit By Wire Base Color All wires have color-coded insulation. Wires belonging to a system's main harness will have a single color. Wires belonging to a system's sub-circuits will have a colored stripe. Striped wires use the codes found in the chart to show wire size and colors. Abbreviations are used to indicate wire color within a circuit diagram. Wire Color Abbreviations The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics: WHT................................... White YEL................................... Yellow BLK................................... Black BLU................................... Blue GRN................................... Green RED................................... Red ORN................................... Orange PNK................................... Pink BRN................................... Brown GRY................................... Gray PUR................................... Purple LT BLU................................... Light Blue LT GRN................................... Light Green The wire insulation has one color or one color with another color stripe. The second color is the stripe. How to Identify Connector Terminals How to Identify Connector Terminals Page 8861 Diodes How to Identify Wiring Color-Coded Insulation Wire Color Page 7299 31. A/C Condenser Fan Assembly Page 6007 5. Screw in the brake pedal position switch (A) until its plunger is fully pressed (threaded end (B) is touching the pad (C) on the pedal arm). Then back off the switch 1/4 turn to make 0.3 mm (0.01 inch) of clearance between the threaded end and the pad. Tighten the locknut firmly. Connect the brake pedal position switch connector. Make sure the brake lights go off when the pedal is released. 6. After adjusting the brake pedal position switch, adjust the idle stop switch (D) with the same procedure used in step 5. When finished, start the engine, and make sure the engine stops when the brake pedal is pressed (CVT). Note these items during adjustment: ^ When either the brake pedal position switch or the idle stop switch needs adjusting, both switches must be adjusted together to keep their functions synchronized. Always adjust the brake pedal position switch first, then adjust the idle stop switch; never adjust the switches independently. ^ When the brake pedal is released, the brake pedal position switch is normally open and the idle stop switch is normally closed. 7. Check the brake pedal free play. Page 6206 13. Set the clock. Page 9207 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. Page 424 11. Lift out the battery module foam insert. 12. Remove the mounting bolts for the battery condition monitor (BCM) module and the motor control module (MCM). Disconnect the electrical connectors, then remove the modules. 13. Install the new BCM and MCM. Make sure all module connectors are secure. 14. Install the IPU lid. 15. Remove the locking cover from the battery module switch, install the 5 mm bolt, turn the switch on, reinstall the locking cover, and install the battery module switch cover. 16. Install the remaining parts in the reverse order of removal. 17. Reconnect the negative cable to the under-hood 12 V battery. Locations Page 6687 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 3888 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 3668 Page 5473 Transmission Mode Switch: Service and Repair Mode Switch Replacement 1. Remove the screws securing the mode switch, then remove the switch. 2. Disconnect the connector from the switch. 3. Install the new mode switch. Page 6057 6. Remove the right trunk shelf support (five clips and two bolts). 7. Remove the six mid-frame cover bolts. Remove the intelligent power unit (IPU) lid (17 bolts). 8. Measure the voltage at the junction board terminals. There should be 30 V or less. If you read more than 30 V, there is a problem in the circuit; do the DTC troubleshooting first. 9. Look at the part number on the motor control module (MCM), and refer to this chart. If there is a replacement part number listed for it, you need to order a replacement MCM. 10. Look at the part number on the battery condition monitor (BCM). If the part number is not 1K100-PHM-A01, you need to order a replacement BCM. Page 550 Cavity Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity / terminal shown is # 6. Circuit Schematics Page 4366 Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Locations 17. Rear of Engine Diagram Information and Instructions Relay Box: Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System Terminal Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown below is #6. Page 8875 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Specifications Axle Nut: Specifications Front Axle Nut 22 x 1.5 mm ......................................................................................................................................... ......................... 181 Nm (18.5 kgf-m, 134 ft. lbs.) Rear Axle Nut 20 x 1.5 mm ......................................................................................................................................... ......................... 162 Nm (16.5 kgf-m, 119 ft. lbs.) Hybrid System - IMA Battery Module Warranty Extension Technical Service Bulletin # 06-057 Date: 110316 Hybrid System - IMA Battery Module Warranty Extension 06-057 March 16, 2011 Applies To: 2000-04 Insight - See VEHICLES AFFECTED Warranty Extension: Insight IMA Battery Module (Supersedes 06-057, dated October 18, 2007, to revise the information marked by the black bars and asterisks) *REVISION SUMMARY Under WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION, some operation number and flat rate time information was changed.* BACKGROUND NOTE: Because of a class action settlement, the warranty extension coverage for the IMA battery module on 2002-04 Insights purchased or leased between April 13, 2002, and November 7, 2006, is now 10 years or 157,500 miles, whichever occurs first. For more information, refer to Service Bulletin 06-085 Warranty Extension: Vehicle Warranty Mileage. To ensure continued reliability with the IMA system, American Honda is announcing an IMA battery module warranty extension for certain 2000-04 Insights. The IMA battery module is now covered for 10 years or 150,000 miles, whichever occurs first. This warranty extension applies to the 43 states not already covered by Service Bulletin 06-027, Warranty Extension: IMA Battery VEHICLES AFFECTED This warranty extension affects 2000-04 Insights registered in the shaded states on this map*: *2000-04 Insights registered in Arizona, California, Colorado, Florida, Hawaii, Nevada, and Texas are covered by Service Bulletin 06-027, Warranty Extension: IMA Battery. CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION Owners of affected vehicles within the 43 affected states will receive a notification of this warranty extension. An example of the warranty extension notification is at the end of this service bulletin. To verify warranty extension eligibility, you must do a VIN status inquiry. CORRECTIVE ACTION Replace the IMA battery module if it has failed. In addition, replace the battery condition monitor and the motor control module on 2000-01 models or, on 2002-04 models, replace the battery condition monitor only. Page 3182 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 4864 Idle Air Control Valve: Diagnostic Aids Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Page 3141 DTC P1253 thru P1459 Page 266 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. Locations 42. Under Left Side of Dash Page 7045 Wheel Bearing: Testing and Inspection Wheel Bearing End Play Inspection 1. Raise the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper location. Remove the wheels. On the rear, remove the fender skirts before removing the wheels. 2. Install suitable flat washers (A) and wheel nuts, and tighten the nuts to the specified torque to hold the brake disc or drum securely against the hub. Front Rear 3. Set up the dial gauge against the hub flange as shown, and measure the bearing end play while moving the brake disc or drum inward and outward. Bearing end play: Standard: Front/Rear: 0 - 0.05 mm (0 - 0.002 inch) 4. If the bearing end play is more than the standard, replace the wheel bearing. Page 2507 9. Disconnect the connectors (A) from the mode control motor and the air mix control motor, then remove the wire harness clips (B). Remove the mounting bolt and the heater unit (C). 10. Remove the clips (A), the sensor clamp (B), and the heater core temperature sensor (C). Remove the grommet (D), then remove the self-tapping screw and the pipe bracket (E). Remove the self-tapping screws and the core cover (F). While being careful not to bend the inlet and outlet pipes. Pull out the heater core (G). 11. Install the heater core in the reverse order of removal. Install the heater core temperature sensor directly against the inlet pipe, and install the sensor clamp securely. 12. Install the heater unit in the reverse order of removal, and note these items. - Install the grommets of the heater core and the heater valve cable securely. - Do not interchange the inlet and outlet heater hoses, and install the hose clamps securely. - Refill the cooling system with engine coolant. - Adjust the heater valve cable. - Make sure that there is no coolant leakage. - Make sure that there is no air leakage. - For evaporator and A/C-related information, refer to evaporator removal and installation. - Do the ECM idle learn procedure. Page 7249 77. A/C Diode Page 8767 Connectors - "C" Page 1994 EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 8106 156. Keyless Door Lock Control Unit Page 7914 Programming the Transmitter NOTES: ^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased. ^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the programming mode. ^ You must complete steps 1-6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from exiting the programming mode. 1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter can be used for this step.) 3. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 4. Repeat steps 1 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2. 5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode. 7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted the transmitter's code. 8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda using normal parts ordering procedures. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery number is CR1616. Each transmitter uses one battery. 97-04 CR-V & 00-04 S2000 *1997-04 CR-V LX with dealer-installed keyless entry system 1998-04 CR-V EX with factory-installed keyless entry system 2000-01 CR-V SE with factory-installed keyless entry system 2000-04 S2000 with factory-installed keyless entry system 2002-04 CR-V with dealer-installed security system* Page 271 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Description and Operation Ignition Timing Connector: Description and Operation Ignition Timing Control The ECM contains the memory for basic ignition timing at various engine speeds and manifold absolute pressure. It also adjusts the timing according to engine coolant temperature. Page 9399 Brake Lamp: Electrical Diagrams Wiring Diagrams Diagram 110-7 Diagrams: Other diagrams referred to by number (See Diagram ##-#, etc.) within these diagrams can be found at Diagrams by Number. See: Diagrams/Electrical Diagrams/Diagrams By Number Locations: Location photographs (references to PHOTOS) referred to within these diagrams can be found at Locations by Photo Number. See: Page 9948 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. Page 2134 Harmonic Balancer - Crankshaft Pulley: Service and Repair Special Tools Required - Holder handle 07JAB-001020A - Holder attachment, HEX 50 mm, offset 07MAB-PY30100 - Socket, 17 mm 07JAA-001010A ore commercially available 17 mm socket Removal 1. Hold the pulley with holder handle (A) and holder attachment (B). 2. Remove the bolt with a heavy-duty 17 mm socket (C) and breaker bar. Installation 1. Clean the bolt (A), washer (B), pulley (C) and crankshaft (D). Lubricate as shown. 2. Install the crankshaft pulley, and tighten the bolt to 20 Nm (2.0 kgf-m, 14 ft. lbs.). Page 874 Braking Sensor/Switch: Testing and Inspection Brake Switch Signal Circuit Troubleshooting 1. Check the brake lights. Are the brake lights on without pressing the brake pedal? YES - Inspect the brake switch adjustment. NO - Go to step 2. 2. Press the brake pedal. Do the brake lights come on? YES - Go to step 3. NO - Go to step 4. 3. Measure voltage between ECM connector terminals A32 and B20 with the brake pedal pressed. Is there battery voltage? YES - The brake switch signal is OK. NO - Repair open in the wire between the ECM (A32) and the brake switch. 4. Inspect the No.6 (10 A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box. Is the fuse OK? YES - Repair open in the wire between the brake switch and the No.6 (10 A) fuse. Inspect the brake switch. NO - Repair short in the wire between the ECM(A32) and the No.6 (10 A) fuse. Replace the No.6 (10 A) fuse. Page 6462 Fuse-to-Components Index Image 6-2 Page 8907 In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locater) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: - Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. Page 7350 Control Assembly: Testing and Inspection Heater Control Power and Ground Circuits Troubleshooting Heater Control Power and Ground Circuits Troubleshooting 1. Check the No. 16 (30 A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box, and the No. 16 (7.5 A) and No. 18 (7.5 A) fuses in the under-dash fuse/relay box. Are the fuses OK? YES - Go to step 2. NO - Replace the fuse(s), and recheck. 2. Disconnect heater control panel connector A (12P). 3. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 4. Measure the voltage between the No. 2 terminal of heater control panel connector A (12P) and body ground. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 5. NO - Repair open in the wire between the No. 16 fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box and the heater control panel. 5. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 6. Measure the voltage between the No. 3 terminal of heater control panel connector A (12P) and body ground. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 7. NO - Repair open in the wire between the No. 18 fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box and the heater control panel. Page 1386 126. Below Right Side of Engine Page 446 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: Page 9818 Diodes How to Identify Wiring Color-Coded Insulation Wire Color Page 1055 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 6913 Key Reminder Switch: Diagnostic Aids Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Specifications Idle Speed: Specifications Idle Speed ........................................................................................................................................... .............................................................. 900 ± 50 rpm Page 9755 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. Page 9950 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. Page 5966 Vacuum Brake Booster: Service and Repair Brake Booster Replacement NOTE: Bolts and nuts with the [star] mark are special corrosion-resistant Dacro fasteners. Use the same type if replacement is necessary. 1. Remove the master cylinder. 2. Disconnect the battery cables, and remove the battery from the battery box (A). 3. Remove the six flange bolts (B) and the battery box. 4. Remove the two 6 mm flange bolts (A), and detach the fuel line/hose (B) from the battery box bracket (C). 5. Remove the flange bolts (D). 6. Remove the clip (A) and the joint pin (B) in the passenger compartment. 7. Remove the brake booster mounting flange nuts (C). Specifications Page 5430 Transmission Speed Sensor: Diagrams 188. CVT Drive Pulley Speed Sensor 189. CVT Driven Pulley Speed Sensor 190. CVT Speed Sensor Page 1122 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. Page 4919 EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 5023 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. Page 9192 Wires Page 7361 Wire Color Abbreviations Page 3111 9. Connect the PGM Tester to the data link connector (DLC). 10. Use the PGM Tester to program the customer's immobilizer key codes into the ECM. Verity that all the keys will start the engine. 11. Center-punch a completion mark above the first character (J) of the engine compartment VIN. Disclaimer Diagram Information and Instructions Idle Air Control Valve: Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System Terminal Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown below is #6. Service and Repair Valve Cover: Service and Repair Cylinder Head Cover Installation 1. Install the head cover gasket in the groove of the cylinder head cover. 2. Install the cylinder head cover on the cylinder head. 3. Tighten the bolts in two or three steps. In the final step, tighten all bolts, in sequence, to 12 Nm (1.2 kgf-cm, 8.7 ft. lbs.). Page 6235 Diodes How to Identify Wiring Color-Coded Insulation Wire Color Page 454 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Page 2399 Spark Plug: Testing and Inspection Spark Plug Inspection/Replacement 1. Remove the spark plugs, and note which cylinder each one came from. 2. Inspect the electrodes and ceramic insulator. Burned or worn electrodes may be caused by: Advanced ignition timing - Loose spark plug - Insufficient cooling Fouled plug may be caused by: Retarded ignition timing - Oil in combustion chamber - Incorrect spark plug gap - Excessive idling/low speed running - Clogged air cleaner element - Deteriorated ignition coil 3. Do not adjust the gap of iridium tip plugs (A); replace the spark plug if the gap is out of specification. Electrode Gap: Standard (New): 1.0 - 1.1 mm (0.039 - 0.043 in.) Service Limit: 1.3 mm (0.051 in.) 4. Replace the plug at the specified interval, or if the center electrode is rounded (A). Page 9201 Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution diagram set to get a more detailed picture of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Page 3082 DTC P2240 thru U0073 Page 6487 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. Page 1760 Refrigerant: Service and Repair System Evacuation CAUTION : - Air conditioning refrigerant or lubricant vapor can irritate your eyes, nose, or throat. - Be careful when connecting service equipment. - Do not breathe refrigerant or vapor. Use only service equipment that is U.L.-listed and is certified to meet the requirements of SAE J2210 to remove HFC-134a (R-134a) from the air conditioning system. If accidental system discharge occurs, ventilate work area before resuming service. Additional health and safety information may be obtained from the refrigerant and lubricant manufacturers. 1. When an A/C system has been opened to the atmosphere, such as during installation or repair, it must be evacuated using a R-134a refrigerant recovery/recycling/charging station (If the system has been open for several days, the receiver/dryer should be replaced, and the system should be evacuated for several hours.) 2. Connect a R-134 refrigerant recovery/recycling/charging station (A) to the high-pressure service port (B) and the low-pressure service port (C), as shown, following the equipment manufacturer's instructions. Evacuate the system. 3. If the low-pressure does not reach more than 93.3 kPa (700 mm Hg, 27.6 in.Hg) in 15 minutes, there is probably a leak in the system. Partially charge the system, and check for leaks. Page 3963 Idle Air Control Valve: Vacuum and Vapor Hose Diagrams Vacuum Hose Routing - M/T Model Page 6442 First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 7308 NO - Repair open in the wire between the condenser fan relay and the A/C diode. 13. Disconnect the jumper wire. 14. Reinstall the condenser fan relay. 15. Disconnect the condenser fan 2P connector. 16. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), then turn the A/C and fan switches ON. 17. Measure the voltage between the No. 2 terminal of the condenser fan 2P connector and body ground. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 18. NO - Repair open in the wire between the condenser fan relay and the condenser fan. 18. Turn the A/C and fan switches OFF, then turn the ignition switch OFF. 19. Reconnect the condenser fan 2P connector. 20. Connect the No.1 terminal of the condenser fan 2P connector to body ground with a jumper wire. 21. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), then turn the A/C and fan switches ON. Does the condenser fan run? YES - Go to step 22. NO - Replace the condenser fan motor. 22. Turn the A/C and fan switches OFF, then turn the ignition switch OFF. 23. Disconnect the jumper wire. 24. Remove the fan control relay from the multi-relay box, and test it. Is the relay OK? YES - Go to step 25. NO - Replace the fan control relay. 25. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), then turn the A/C and fan switches ON. Hybrid Systems - High Temp. Effect ON Hybrid Batteries Battery Module: All Technical Service Bulletins Hybrid Systems - High Temp. Effect ON Hybrid Batteries 08-062 August 6, 2008 Applies To: 2000-06 Insight - ALL 2003-09 Civic Hybrid - ALL 2005-07 Accord Hybrid - ALL Hybrid Batteries Can Be Affected by High Temperatures The high-voltage batteries in the 2000-06 Insight, the 2003-09 Civic Hybrid, and the 2005-07 Accord Hybrid can be affected and damaged by excessively high temperatures. The temperature in some body shop paint booths can exceed 150° F. Therefore, during refinishing operations, the paint booth temperature must be set at or below 150° F. As a reminder, every Honda Hybrid has a sticker on the driver's door stating the maximum temperature. Disclaimer Page 10106 Turn Signal Relay: Testing and Inspection 1. Remove the turn signal/hazard relay (A) from the under-dash fuse/relay box (B). 2. Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are all making good contact. - If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system. - If the terminals look OK, make the following input tests at the fuse/relay box socket. - If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system. - If all the input tests prove Ok, the turn signal/hazard relay must be faulty; replace it. Page 5326 Clutch Fluid: Fluid Type Specifications Clutch Fluid type ................................................................................................................................................ Always use only Honda DOT 3 brake fluid Page 9842 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Specifications Drain Plug: Specifications Drain Plug Torque Oil Filler Plug, With New Washer ........................................................................................................ ..................................................................... 44 Nm Oil Drain Plug, With New Washer ........................................................................................................ ..................................................................... 39 Nm Page 6395 EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 4746 Wire Color Coding Distinct Of Circuit By Wire Base Color All wires have color-coded insulation. Wires belonging to a system's main harness will have a single color. Wires belonging to a system's sub-circuits will have a colored stripe. Striped wires use the codes found in the chart to show wire size and colors. Abbreviations are used to indicate wire color within a circuit diagram. Wire Color Abbreviations The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics: WHT................................... White YEL................................... Yellow BLK................................... Black BLU................................... Blue GRN................................... Green RED................................... Red ORN................................... Orange PNK................................... Pink BRN................................... Brown GRY................................... Gray PUR................................... Purple LT BLU................................... Light Blue LT GRN................................... Light Green The wire insulation has one color or one color with another color stripe. The second color is the stripe. How to Identify Connector Terminals How to Identify Connector Terminals Page 5907 168. ABS Modulator-Control Unit Page 2096 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. Page 5117 114. MPI Module Fan Control Relay, High Speed; High Voltage Contactor Relay; Ignition Hold Relay; And MPI Module Fan Control Relay, Low Speed Page 5335 10. Make sure the fluid level in the reservoir is at the MAX (upper) level line (A). Page 3832 DTC P0158 thru P0400 Recall 04V086000: Headlamp Switch/Connector Defect Headlamp Switch: Recalls Recall 04V086000: Headlamp Switch/Connector Defect DEFECT: On certain passenger vehicles, the low-beam terminal on the head light wire harness can overheat and could cause the low beams to fail without warning. An unexpected loss of low beams could result in a crash. REMEDY: Dealers will inspect the head light switch and coupler for signs of heat damage. If heat damage is present, the dealer will replace the switch and coupler. If no heat damage is present, the dealer will replace the head light switch and one mating pin in the coupler. The manufacturer has reported that owner notification was to begin on April 5, 2004 . Owners may contact Honda at 1-800-999-1009. Page 6338 162. C105 (Junction Connector) 202. C107 (Junction Connector) (CVT) Page 3985 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 4259 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. Description and Operation Hybrid Battery Service Switch: Description and Operation Battery Module Switch The battery module switch is connected in series to the battery module fuse. Always turn the battery module switch to the OFF position whenever service or checks are required on or around the high voltage circuits. Follow these steps exactly: 1. Remove the switch cover from the IPU lid, then turn the switch OFF. 2. Wait at least 5 minutes. 3. Remove the IPU lid. 4. Measure voltage at the output terminals. Make sure the voltage is low enough for safe operation before any service is done to the car. Page 4696 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. Page 5010 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: - Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest OHMS" range. Page 6668 Wire Color Abbreviations Page 2290 In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locater) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: - Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. Page 2306 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 1926 ^ Reversible drill motor (800 RPM MAX) ^ Tire spreader ^ Inspection lamp * For repairable injuries that exceed 25 degrees TIRE REPAIR GUIDELINES Never repair tires worn below 2/32 inch of tread. Never repair a tire without removing the tire from the wheel for internal inspection. Never repair a tire with a tread injury larger than 1/4 inch (6 mm). Never use only a plug (stem) or a patch only to repair a tire injury. NOTE: If the angle of the tire injury exceeds 25 degrees, you must use the two-piece repair system as recommended by the RMA. MICHELIN PAX SYSTEM SUPPORT RING INSPECTION PAX System support rings are not repairable, under any circumstances, but they can be reused if no damage is found during a thorough inspection. If a PAX System tire ran flat or underinflated, dismount the tire from the wheel and inspect the wheel, tire, and support ring for damage. Refer to the Michelin PAX Support Rings Technical Bulletin in ISIS. Enter SEARCH BY PUBLICATION, select Job Aids, then select Michelin PAX Support Rings Technical Bulletin from the list. Disclaimer Page 8937 Fuel Gauge: Testing and Inspection Fuel Gauge Test Special Tools Required Adjustable ring wrench 07XAA-001010A NOTE: Refer the fuel gauge system circuit diagram. 1. Check the No.6 fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box before testing. 2. Remove the middle floor panel. 3. Remove the access panel from the floor. 4. Turn the ignition switch OFF, then disconnect the fuel pump 5P connector. 5. Measure voltage between the fuel pump 5P connector terminals No.1 and No.2 with the ignition switch ON (II). There should be between 5 and 8 V. If the voltage is as specified, go to step 6. - If the voltage is not as specified, check for: an open in the YEL/BLK or BLK wire. - poor ground (G502). 6. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 7. Install a 2 Ohms resistor between the fuel pump 5P connector terminals No.1 and No.2, then turn the ignition switch ON (II). 8. Check that the pointer of the fuel gauge starts moving toward the "F" mark. - If the pointer of the fuel gauge does not move at all, replace the gauge. - If the gauge is OK, inspect the fuel gauge sending unit. NOTE: Turn the ignition switch OFF before the pointer reaches "F" on the gauge dial. Failure to do so may damage the fuel gauge. - The fuel gauge is a bobbin (cross-coil) type, hence the fuel level is continuously indicated even when the ignition switch is OFF, and the pointer moves more slowly than that of a bimetal type. Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box Fuse: Application and ID Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box Part 1 Page 9742 In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locater) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: - Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. Page 9743 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: - Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest OHMS" range. Page 4582 39. EVAP Canister Purge Valve Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box Speedo/Odometer Read Excessive Speed & Distance Odometer: Technical Service Bulletins Speedo/Odometer Read Excessive Speed & Distance SOURCE: Honda Service News February 2004 TITLE: Speedo/Odo Read Excessive Speed and Distance APPLIES TO: 2000-04 Insight, 2000-04 S2000 SERVICE TIP: If an owner complains of the speedometer reading way too high and the odometer clicking off way too many miles, the problem could simply be the speedometer and odometer are set to read kilometers instead of miles. The mph/km/h button on the Insight gauge assembly (it's the SEL button for S2000s) switches the speedometer reading between miles per hour and kilometers per hour. It also switches the odometer and the trip meters to read in miles or kilometers. To switch the speedometer/odometer readings in an Insight, press the mph/km/h button. To switch the readings in an S2000, press and hold the SEL button until you hear a beep. Locations Map Light: Locations Middle Front of Roof Page 10227 4. With the connectors still disconnected, make this input test at the connector. - If the test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system. - If the input test proves OK, go to step 5. 5. Reconnect the connectors to the switch, and make these input tests at the appropriate connectors. - If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system. - If all the input tests prove OK, the power window master switch must be faulty, replace the switch. Page 6253 EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 1478 199. Transmission Range Switch (CVT) Page 3905 ECM/PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector C (31P) Part 2 Page 5401 204. TCM (CVT) Page 8046 Radio/Stereo: Electrical Diagrams Stereo Sound System - Circuit Diagram Page 9601 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Locations Combination Switch: Locations Exterior Lights - Component Location Index Page 167 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Page 5999 Brake Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch: Adjustments For information regarding the Adjustment of this component and the system that it is a part of, please refer to Brake Pedal Assy; Adjustments. Page 6142 PARTS INFORMATION WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION NOTE: The IMA battery module warranty extension does not apply to any vehicle that has ever been declared a total loss, or any that has been issued a salvage, branded, or similar title under any state's law. Failed Part: P/N 1K000-PHM-000 Defect Code: 5KH00 Symptom Code: Q1600 Skill Level: Repair Technician REPAIR PROCEDURE NOTE: Do this procedure only if troubleshooting indicates a problem with the IMA battery module. 1. Turn the ignition switch to the LOCK (0) position. 2. Remove the cargo floor mat: ^ Refer to page 20-44 of the 2000-2006 Insight Service Manual, or ^ Online, enter keywords FLOOR MAT, then select Interior Trim Removal/Installation - Cargo Area from the list. Page 27 First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 4541 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 7804 6. Remove the B-pillar lower trim panel assembly, then disconnect the seat belt tensioner 2P connector (A) from the floor wire harness. 7. Pull the seat belt (A) out all the way and cut it. 8. Cut off the air-bag or seat belt tensioner connector, strip the ends of the airbag wires and seat belt tensioner wires and connect the deployment tool alligator clips (A) to the airbags and seat belt tensioners. Place the deployment tool at least 30 feet (10 meters) away from the vehicle. 9. Connect a 12 volt battery to the tool. - If the green light on the tool comes on, the igniter circuit is defective and cannot deploy the airbag or seat belt tensioner. Go to Disposal of Damaged Components. Specifications Rocker Arm Assembly: Specifications For further information regarding this component and the system it is a part of, please refer to Cylinder Head Assembly; Service and Repair. Page 9437 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. Page 202 32. Left Front Side of Engine Compartment Page 462 ECM Inputs and Outputs at Connector C (31P) Part 1 Page 8237 41. Hatch Opener Actuator Page 9056 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Color Chart Paint Specifications Page 6422 Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box Page 8951 Fuel Gauge Sender: Service and Repair Fuel Gauge Sending Unit Test/Replacement Fuel Gauge Sending Unit Test/Replacement Special Tools Required Adjustable ring wrench 07XAA-001010A NOTE: This article has been updated as per TSB SN030415. NOTE: For the fuel gauge system circuit diagram, refer to the Gauges Circuit Diagram. Test 1. Check the No.6 fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box before testing. 2. Remove the middle floor panel. 3. Remove the access panel from the floor. 4. Turn the ignition switch OFF, then disconnect the fuel pump 5P connector. 5. Measure voltage between the fuel pump 5P connector terminals No.1 and No.2 with the ignition switch ON (II). There should be Battery Voltage. - If the voltage is as specified, go to step 6. - If the voltage is not as specified, check for: an open in the YEL/BLK or BLK wire. - poor ground (G502). 6. Turn the ignition switch OFF. Remove the No.18 (7.5 A) fuse from the under-dash fuse/relay box for at least 10 seconds, then reinstall it. 7. Install a 2 Ohms resistor between the fuel pump 5P connector terminals No.1 and No.2, then turn the ignition switch ON (II). 8. Check that the pointer of the fuel gauge starts moving toward the "F" mark. - If the pointer of the fuel gauge does not move at all, replace the gauge. - If the gauge is OK, inspect the fuel gauge sending unit. NOTE: Turn the ignition switch OFF before the pointer reaches "F" on the gauge dial. Failure to do so may damage the fuel gauge. - The fuel gauge is a bobbin (cross-coil) type, hence the fuel level is continuously indicated even when the ignition switch is OFF, and the pointer moves more slowly than that of a bimetal type. Replacement 1. Remove the fuel tank. 2. Disconnect the quick-connect fittings from the fuel pump. Page 4547 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. Page 459 ECM Inputs and Outputs at Connector A (32P) Part 2 Diagrams Page 7490 Relay And Control Unit Locations - Dashboard 31. Left Front Side of Engine Compartment Locations Throttle Position Sensor: Locations PGM-FI System - Component Location Index Page 7628 Air Bag: Specifications Driver's Airbag Torx Bolt ..................................... 9.8 Nm (1.0 kg-m, 7.2 lb-ft) Passenger's Airbag Torx Bolt ..................................... 9.8 Nm (1.0 kg-m, 7.2 lb-ft) Page 1281 83. ELD Unit Page 3571 17. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 18. Measure voltage between idle stop switch 2P connector terminal No.2 and body ground. Is there battery voltage? YES - Repair open in the wire between the idle stop switch and G402. NO - Repair open in the wire between the ECM (A31) and the idle stop switch. Page 563 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 6146 16. With the help of an assistant, lift the battery module out of the vehicle, and carefully set it down on a flat surface. 17. Install the new battery module in the reverse order of removal (steps 16, 15, 14, 13, 12, and 11). 18. Install a new BCM (2002-04 Insights) ora new BCM and MCM (2000-01 Insights): ^ Remove the mounting bolts. ^ Disconnect the connectors: The BCM has three the MCM has five. ^ Remove the module(s). ^ Install the new module(s) in the reverse order of removal, and torque the mounting bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb-ft). 19. Reinstall the foam insert. 20. Reinstall the IPU lid. Torque the bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb.ft). 21. Reinstall the under-cover (two bolts, two clips, and three screw clips.) Torque the bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb.ft). 22. Remove the battery module switch locking cover, flip the switch to ON, then reinstall the locking cover. 23. Reinstall the battery module switch cover. 24. Reinstall the rear clips on the middle bulkhead carpet. 25. Reinstall the cargo floor mat. 26. Check for and clear any DTCs with the HDS. Page 8055 60. Speaker, Left Or Right, Rear Service and Repair Fuel Pressure Release: Service and Repair Fuel Pressure Relieving Before disconnecting fuel pipes or hoses, release pressure from the system by loosening the sealing nut on top of the fuel rail. 1. Write down the frequencies for the radio's preset buttons. 2. Disconnect the battery negative cable from the battery negative terminal. 3. Remove the fuel fill cap. 4. Use a wrench on the sealing nut (A) at the fuel rail. 5. Place a rag or shop towel (B) over the sealing nut. 6. Slowly loosen the sealing nut one complete turn. NOTE: Replace all washers whenever the sealing nut is loosened or removed. Page 8732 All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416 etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector or by a capital letter (A, B, C etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Connector Views that shows the connector terminals wire colors connector cavity numbers and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints shown on diagram [8] . Except for the DLC (data link connector) disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554 for example means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Locations 128. Right Side of Fuel Tank Page 4785 Fuel Return Line: Testing and Inspection Fuel Line Inspection Page 4508 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Service and Repair Trunk / Liftgate Weatherstrip: Service and Repair Hatch Weatherstrip Replacement 1. Remove the hatch support strut from each side of the body. 2. Remove the hatch weatherstrip (A) by pulling it off. 3. Apply clear sealant (B) into the groove of the hatch weatherstrip all the way around. Sealant: Cemedine P/N 08712-0004, or equivalent 4. Locate the painted alignment mark (C) on the hatch weatherstrip. Align the painted mark with the alignment tab in the center of the hatch opening, and install the weatherstrip all the way around in the direction shown. Make sure there are no wrinkles in the weatherstrip. 5. Reinstall the hatch support struts. 6. Check for water leaks. Page 8769 Terminals - "T" Shielding Switches Fuses Page 1867 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: - Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest OHMS" range. Page 650 157. SRS Unit Page 7798 90. Right B-pillar Page 4328 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. Page 2062 Rocker Arm Assembly: Testing and Inspection VTEC Rocker Arms Test Special Tools Required ^ Air pressure regulator 07AAJ-PNAA100 ^ VTEC air adapter 07VAJ-P8A010A 1. Remove the engine cover. 2. Remove the cylinder head cover. 3. Set the No. 1 piston at top dead center (TDC). 4. Move the primary rocker arm (A) for No. 1 cylinder. The primary rocker arm should move independently of the secondary rocker arm (B). ^ If the primary rocker arm does not move, remove the primary and secondary rocker arms as an assembly, and check that the piston in the secondary rocker arm moves smoothly. ^ If any rocker arm needs replacing, replace the primary and secondary rocker arms as an assembly. 5. Check that the air pressure on the shop air compressor gauge indicates over 400 kPa (4 kgf/cm2, 57 psi). 6. Inspect the valve clearance. 7. Remove a rocker shaft mounting bolt (A), then connect the VTEC air adapter (B) and the VTEC air pressure regulator (C) to the bolt hole. 8. Loosen the valve on the regulator, and apply the specified air pressure. Specified Air Pressure: 250 kPa (2.5 kgf/cm2, 36 psi) Page 1189 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Component Locations Relay Box: Component Locations 28. Left Front Side of Engine Compartment 33. Underside of Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box Page 4323 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 3335 Splices Components Ground - "G" Page 8803 Connectors - "C" Service and Repair Trunk / Liftgate Shock / Support: Service and Repair Hatch Support Strut Replacement Special Tools Required KTC trim tool set SOJATP2014 * * Available through the American Honda Tool and Equipment Program NOTE: - Have an assistant help you remove and install the support strut. - Take care not to scratch the hatch and body. - Use the appropriate tool from the KTC trim tool set to avoid damage when prying components. 1. Remove the hatch support strut as shown. 2. Install the hatch support strut in the reverse order of removal, and first install the pivot bolt on the hatch. Page 385 DTC P2240 thru U0073 Page 10169 Rear Window Defogger - Component Location Index Locations 120. In Hatch Diagram Information and Instructions Relay Box: Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System Terminal Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown below is #6. Page 5459 6. Align the socket holder (A) on the shift cable (B) with the slot in the bracket base (C), then slide the holder into the base. Install the shift cable end (D) over the mounting stud (E) by aligning its square hole (F) with the square fitting (G) at the bottom of the stud. Rotate the holder a quarter turn to secure the shift cable. Do not install the shift cable by twisting the shift cable guide (H). 7. Verify that the shift cable end (A) is properly installed on the mounting stud (B). 8. If improperly installed, remove the shift cable from the shift cable bracket base, and reinstall the shift cable. Do not install the shift cable end on the mounting stud while the shift cable is on the shift cable bracket base. 9. Install and tighten the nut. 10. Remove the 6.0 mm (0.24 inch) pin that was installed to hold the shift lever. 11. Connect the shift lock solenoid connector and park pin switch/indicator lamp connector. 12. Move the shift lever to each position, and verify that the A/T gear position indicator follows the transmission range switch. 13. Push the shift lock release, and verify that the shift lever releases. 14. Reinstall the front console. Page 9784 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: - Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest OHMS" range. Page 9438 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. Page 5228 Transmission Mode Switch: Service and Repair Mode Switch Replacement 1. Remove the screws securing the mode switch, then remove the switch. 2. Disconnect the connector from the switch. 3. Install the new mode switch. Page 2354 Variable Valve Timing Solenoid: Testing and Inspection VTEC Solenoid Valve Test 1. Remove the engine cover. 2. Disconnect the 1P connector from the VTEC solenoid valve. 3. Measure resistance between the terminal and body ground. 4. If the resistance is within specifications, remove the VTEC solenoid valve assembly (A) from the cylinder head, and check the VTEC solenoid valve filter/O-ring (B) for clogging. If there is clogging, replace the engine oil filter and the engine oil. Locations 1. Right Side of Engine Compartment Page 9083 NO - Go to step 43. 43. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 44. Disconnect ECM connector C (31P). 45. Check for continuity between ECM connector terminal C19 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Repair short in the wire between the ECM (C19) and the MAP sensor. NO - Update the ECM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM, replace the original ECM. 46. Measure voltage between body ground and ECM connector terminal C28. Is there about 5 V? YES - Go to step 53. (CVT model) - Update the ECM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM, replace the original ECM. (M/T model) NO - Go to step 47. 47. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 48. Disconnect the 3P connector from each of these sensors, one at a time, and measure voltage between body ground and ECM connector terminal C28 with the ignition switch ON (II). Exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) valve position sensor - Brake booster pressure sensor - Fuel tank pressure (FTP) sensor - Throttle position (TP) sensor Page 9602 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. Page 9420 All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416 etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector or by a capital letter (A, B, C etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Connector Views that shows the connector terminals wire colors connector cavity numbers and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints shown on diagram [8] . Except for the DLC (data link connector) disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554 for example means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Page 3211 ECM/PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector D (16P) Part 2 Page 10104 Relay And Control Unit Locations - Dashboard Locations 36. Left Side of Dash Page 3993 EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Front Suspension Strut / Shock Absorber: Service and Repair Front Front Strut Assembly Damper/Spring Replacement Special Tools Required Strut spring compressor, Branick MST-580A or Model 7200, or equivalent, commercially-available NOTICE: To avoid damage, do not strike aluminum parts with a metal hammer. If necessary, tap gently with a plastic tipped hammer. NOTE: Bolts and nuts with the [star] mark are special corrosion-resistant Dacro fasteners. Use the same type if replacement is necessary. Removal 1. Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper location. Remove the front wheels. Page 5792 Splices Components Ground - "G" Page 7363 Connectors - "C" Page 7032 7. Remove the self-locking nuts (A) from the top of the damper. 8. Lower the lower arm, and remove the damper assembly (B). Disassembly/Inspection 1. Compress the damper spring with a commercially available strut spring compressor (A) according to the manufacturer's instructions, then remove the self-locking nut (B) while holding the damper shaft (C) with a hex wrench (D). Do not compress the spring more than necessary to remove the nut. 2. Release the pressure from the strut spring compressor, then disassemble the damper as shown in the Exploded View. 3. Reassemble all the parts, except for the spring. 4. Compress the damper assembly by hand, and check for smooth operation through a full stroke, both compression and extension. The damper should extend smoothly and constantly when compression is released. If it does not, the gas is leaking and the damper should be replaced. 5. Check for oil leaks, abnormal noises, and binding during these tests. Reassembly 1. Install the dust cover end inside the top of the dust cover sleeve, and install the dust cover lower mount on the bottom of the dust cover sleeve. 2. Install the bump stop on the damper shaft, then install the set of the dust cover (assembled in step 1) over it. Locations 19. Rear of Transmission (M/T) Page 4506 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. Page 5249 50. Neutral Position Switch (M/T) Page 8014 Wire Color Abbreviations Page 4480 Wire Color Abbreviations Page 410 DTC U0100 thru U1288 Disclaimer Page 6059 12. Install the IPU lid. Torque the bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb-ft). 13. Reinstall the right side trunk shelf support. Torque the bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb-ft). 14. Remove the battery module switch locking cover, and flip the switch to ON. Reinstall the locking cover. 15. Reinstall the battery module switch cover. 16. Reinstall the cargo floor mat. 17. Remove the No.15 (40A) fuse (EPS control unit) from the under-hood fuse/relay box. 18. With the transmission in Neutral, and the clutch released on M/T models, start the engine. Hold it at 3,500 rpm until the IMA battery level indicator shows at least 50 percent charge. 19. Turn off the engine, and reinstall the No.15 fuse. Disclaimer Page 5022 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. Page 8011 Radio/Stereo: Locations Dash Board View Service and Repair Windshield Washer Reservoir: Service and Repair Washer Motors/Washer Reservoir Replacement 1. Pull away the right front inner fender. 2. Disconnect the 2P connectors (A) from the washer motors (B). 3. Disconnect the washer tubes (C) from the washer motors. 4. Remove the three mounting bolts and washer reservoir. Page 4971 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. Page 345 P/N 17012-S01-A00 H/C 5999016 ECM/PCM: P/N 37820-P2P-A12 H/C 6104426 Defect Code: 072 Contention Code: C01 Skill Level: Repair Technician Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Connect the PGM Tester to the 16P data link connector. 2. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). Turn on the PGM Tester. 3. From the PROGRAM MENU screen, select HONDA SYSTEMS. 4. From the SYSTEM SELECT screen, select 1: PGM-FI. 5. From the TEST MODE MENU screen, select 6: INSPECTION. 6. From the INSPECTION MENU screen, select 2: EVAP TEST. 7. From the EVAP TEST MENU, select 1: SINGLE SOLENOIDS. 8. From the SINGLE SOLENOIDS MENU, activate the EVAP bypass solenoid valve. Listen for a click and feel for a light tap from the solenoid valve as you activate it. ^ If you can hear the solenoid valve click or feel it tap when activated, disregard this service bulletin, and look for other possible causes. ^ If you cannot hear the solenoid valve click or feel it tap when activated, go to step 9. 9. Replace the EVAP bypass solenoid valve (see section 11 of the appropriate service manual). 10. Test the new solenoid valve with the PGM Tester. ^ If you can hear the solenoid valve click or feel it tap when activated, go to step 15 or 16 as appropriate. ^ If you cannot hear the solenoid valve click or feel it tap when activated, go to step 11. 11. Check the wire harness and the connectors for damage. ^ If you find any damage, repair it, then go to step 12. ^ If you find no damage in the wire harness or connectors, go to step 13. 12. Test the solenoid valve again with the PGM Tester. ^ If you can hear the solenoid valve click or feel it tap when activated, go to step 15 or 16 as appropriate. ^ If you cannot hear the solenoid valve click or feel it tap when activated, go to step 13. 13. Replace the ECM/PCM (see section 11 of the appropriate service manual). 14. Use the PGM Tester to retest the solenoid valve. ^ If you can hear the solenoid valve click or feel it tap when activated, go to step 15 or 16 as appropriate. Page 9576 99. Ceiling Light/Spotlights Page 5015 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 4214 DTC P1253 thru P1459 Page 3664 Crankshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair Replacement 1. Disconnect the CKP sensor connector, then remove the CKP sensor (A). 2. Install the CKP sensor using a new O-ring (B). Diagram Information and Instructions Air Door Actuator / Motor: Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System Terminal Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown below is #6. Page 5346 16. Measure voltage between the clutch pedal position switch 2P connector terminal No.2 and body ground. Is there about 5 V? YES - Repair open in the wire between the clutch pedal position switch and G402. NO - Repair open in the wire between the ECM (B14) and the clutch pedal position switch. Page 1402 9. Knock Sensor Page 8211 Diodes How to Identify Wiring Color-Coded Insulation Wire Color Page 6736 DIAGNOSTIC WORKSHEET REPAIR PROCEDURE A Page 3177 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 8447 Page 716 Power Steering Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relay Test Normally-open type B: EPS Motor Relay 1. Turn the battery module switch OFF, and measure the voltage. 2. Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 3 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 2 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 3 terminals when power is disconnected. Page 8484 Power Door Lock Actuator: Testing and Inspection Door Lock Actuator/Passenger's Passenger's Door Lock Actuator Test 1. Remove the passenger's door panel. 2. Disconnect the 2P connector (A) from the actuator (B). 3. Check actuator operation by connecting power and ground according to the table. To prevent damage to the actuator, apply battery voltage only momentarily. 4. If the actuator does not operate as specified, replace the passenger's door lock actuator. Locations 39. Upper Left Kick Panel Area Page 1816 39. Upper Left Kick Panel Area Page 1379 11. Middle of Engine Page 5675 Transmission Speed Sensor: Diagrams 188. CVT Drive Pulley Speed Sensor 189. CVT Driven Pulley Speed Sensor 190. CVT Speed Sensor Page 9717 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. Removal and Installation Evaporator Case: Service and Repair Removal and Installation 1. Recover the refrigerant with a recovery/recycling/ charging station. 2. Remove the bolt, then disconnect the suction line (A) and receiver line (B) from the evaporator. Plug or cap the lines immediately after disconnecting them to avoid moisture and dust contamination. 3. Remove the glove box and the center lower cover. 4. Remove the plastic cross brace, then remove the glove box frame. 5. Disconnect the connector (A) from the evaporator temperature sensor, then remove the wire harness (B). Remove the drain hose (C), the self-tapping screws, the mounting bolts, and the evaporator (D). 6. Install in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - If you're installing a new evaporator, add refrigerant oil (SANDEN SP-10). - Replace the O-rings with new ones at each fitting, and apply a thin coat of refrigerant oil before installing them. Be sure to use the right O-rings for HFC-134a (R-134a) to avoid leakage. - Immediately after using the oil, replace the cap on the container, and seal it to avoid moisture absorption. - Do not spill the refrigerant oil on the vehicle; it may damage the paint; if the refrigerant oil contacts the paint, wash it off immediately. -Make sure that there is no air leakage. - Charge the system, and test its performance. Page 8675 Trunk / Liftgate Switch: Service and Repair Hatch Opener Switch Replacement NOTE: - Take care not to scratch the hatch. - Put on gloves to protect your hands. 1. Remove the hatch trim panel. 2. Remove the hatch opener switch as shown. 3. Install the hatch opener switch in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - Make sure the connector is plugged in properly. - Make sure the hatch opens properly. Page 5845 Brake Rotor/Disc: Testing and Inspection Front Brake Disc Inspection Runout 1. Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper location. Remove the front wheels. 2. Remove the brake pads. 3. Inspect the disc surface for damage and cracks. Clean the disc thoroughly and remove all rust. 4. Install suitable flat washers (A) and wheel nuts, and tighten the nuts to the specified torque to hold the brake disc securely against the hub. 5. Set up the dial gauge against the brake disc as shown, and measure the runout at 5 mm (0.2 inch) from the outer edge of the disc. Brake disc runout: Service limit: 0.05 mm (0.002 inch) 6. If the disc is beyond the service limit, refinish the brake disc with an on-car brake lathe. The KwikLathe produced by Kwik-way Manufacturing Co. and the "Front Brake Disc Lathe" offered by Snap-on Tools Co. are approved for this operation. Max. refinish limit: 15.0 mm (0.59 inch) NOTE: If the brake disc is beyond the service limit for refinishing, replace it. A new disc should be refinished if its runout is greater then 0.10 mm (0.004 inch). Thickness and Parallelism 1. Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper location. Remove the front wheels. 2. Remove the brake pads. 3. Using a micrometer, measure disc thickness at eight points, approximately 45° apart and 10 mm (0.4 inch) in from the outer edge of the disc. Replace the brake disc if the smallest measurement is less than the max. refinishing limit. Brake disc thickness: Standard: 16.9 - 17.1 mm (0.665 - 0.673 inch) Max. refinishing limit: 15.0 mm 10.59 inch) Brake disc parallelism: 0.03 mm (0.0012 inch) max. NOTE: This is the maximum allowable difference between the thickness measurements. 4. If the disc is beyond the service limit for parallelism, refinish the brake disc with an on-car brake lathe. The Kwik-Lathe produced by Kwik-way Manufacturing Co. and the "Front Brake Disc Lathe" offered by Snap-on Tools Co. are approved for this operation. NOTE: If the brake disc is beyond the service limit for refinishing, replace it. Page 9144 Lights-on,key-in,and Seat Belt Reminders Image 73-1 Page 4902 Wire Color Coding Distinct Of Circuit By Wire Base Color All wires have color-coded insulation. Wires belonging to a system's main harness will have a single color. Wires belonging to a system's sub-circuits will have a colored stripe. Striped wires use the codes found in the chart to show wire size and colors. Abbreviations are used to indicate wire color within a circuit diagram. Wire Color Abbreviations The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics: WHT................................... White YEL................................... Yellow BLK................................... Black BLU................................... Blue GRN................................... Green RED................................... Red ORN................................... Orange PNK................................... Pink BRN................................... Brown GRY................................... Gray PUR................................... Purple LT BLU................................... Light Blue LT GRN................................... Light Green The wire insulation has one color or one color with another color stripe. The second color is the stripe. How to Identify Connector Terminals How to Identify Connector Terminals Locations Electric Load Sensor: Locations Relay And Control Unit Location - Engine Compartment Page 4116 7. Remove the rear clips from the middle bulkhead carpet. 8. Remove the under-cover (two bolts, two clips, and three screw clips). 9. Remove the intelligent power unit (I PU) lid (six Torx bolts and 17 hex bolts). 10. Measure the voltage between the junction board terminals. There should be 10 V or less. ^ If you have more than 10 V, there's a problem in the MA system. Look for and troubleshoot any DTCs before continuing. ^ If you have 10 V or less, continue to step 11. Page 1723 9. Insert the dipstick back into the transmission. Page 3124 DTC P1486 thru P1585 Page 836 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Page 6284 Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box Page 6076 Failed Part: P/N 1K000-PHM-000 Defect Code: 03214 Symptom Code: 03205 Skill Level: Repair Technician INSPECTION PROCEDURE 1. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 2. Remove the cargo floor mat (see page 20-44 of the 2000-04 Insight Service Manual). (In ISIS, use the keyword FLOOR MAT, and select Interior Trim Removal/Installation - Cargo Area from the list.) 3. Remove the battery module switch cover (two bolts), then remove the locking cover from the switch. 4. Flip the battery module switch to OFF. Reinstall the locking cover. 5. Wait at least 5 minutes to let the capacitors in the system discharge. Page 4409 Intake Air Temperature Sensor: Description and Operation Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor The IAT sensor is a temperature dependent resistor (thermistor). The resistance of the thermistor decreases as the intake air temperature increases. Page 9951 First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 2779 101. Left Front Side of Battery Module Page 3328 51. Under Left Side of Dash Diagram Information and Instructions Dimmer Switch: Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System Terminal Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown below is #6. Page 9966 5. Door Switch, Driver's Or Passenger's Locations Idle Control System - Component Location Index Page 6632 First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 1270 Cylinder Identification Sensor: Description and Operation TDC Sensor 1/2 CKP Sensor TDC (Top Dead Center) 1/2 and CKP (Crankshaft Position) Sensors The TDC 1 and TDC 2 sensors detect the position of the No.1 cylinder as a reference for sequential fuel injection to each cylinder. The CKP sensor detects engine speed and determines ignition timing and timing for fuel injection of each cylinder. ECM/PCM Terminal Values Engine Control Module: Testing and Inspection ECM/PCM Terminal Values ECM/PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector A (32P) Part 1 Page 7200 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 6365 39. Upper Left Kick Panel Area Page 3095 DISCLAIMER Page 5528 7. To completely seat the outboard joint, pick up the driveshaft and joint, and drop them from about 10 cm (4 inch) onto a hard surface. Do not use a hammer as excessive force may damage the driveshaft. 8. Check the alignment of the paint mark (A) with the outboard joint end (B). 9. Pack the outboard joint with the joint grease included in the new joint boot set. Page 689 12. Install the IPU lid. Torque the bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb-ft). 13. Reinstall the right side trunk shelf support. Torque the bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb-ft). 14. Remove the battery module switch locking cover, and flip the switch to ON. Reinstall the locking cover. 15. Reinstall the battery module switch cover. 16. Reinstall the cargo floor mat. 17. Remove the No.15 (40A) fuse (EPS control unit) from the under-hood fuse/relay box. 18. With the transmission in Neutral, and the clutch released on M/T models, start the engine. Hold it at 3,500 rpm until the IMA battery level indicator shows at least 50 percent charge. 19. Turn off the engine, and reinstall the No.15 fuse. Disclaimer Page 160 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Locations Oil Pressure Sender: Locations Gauges - Component Location Index Page 9571 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. Page 9249 Connectors - "C" Page 346 ^ If you still cannot hear the solenoid valve click or feel it tap when activated, continue with normal troubleshooting. 15. Insight only: Disconnect the PGM Tester, and return the vehicle to your customer. 16. All other affected models: Use the PGM Tester to run the EVAP system function test (see S/B 02-007, EVAP System Function Testing and Diagnostics With the PGM Tester). ^ If the EVAP system passes the function test, disconnect the PGM Tester, and return the vehicle to your customer. ^ If the EVAP system fails the function test, continue with normal troubleshooting. Disclaimer Page 4067 57. Measure voltage between body ground and ECM connector terminal B6. Is there about 5 V? YES - Substitute a known-good TCM and recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away, replace the original TCM. NO - Go to step 58. 58. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 59. Disconnect ECM connector B (25P). 60. Check for continuity between ECM connector terminal B6 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Repair short in the wire between the ECM (B6) and the TCM. NO - Update the ECM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM, replace the original ECM. 61. Measure voltage between ECM connector terminal B17 and body ground. Is there about 5 V (or battery voltage)? YES - Go to step 65. NO - Go to step 62. 62. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 63. Disconnect ECM connector B (25P). Page 7390 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Locations Immobilizer Receiver Unit: Locations Relay And Control Unit Locations - Dashboard Page 3716 121. EGR Valve And EGR Valve Position Sensor Page 7841 Wire Color Coding Distinct Of Circuit By Wire Base Color All wires have color-coded insulation. Wires belonging to a system's main harness will have a single color. Wires belonging to a system's sub-circuits will have a colored stripe. Striped wires use the codes found in the chart to show wire size and colors. Abbreviations are used to indicate wire color within a circuit diagram. Wire Color Abbreviations The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics: WHT................................... White YEL................................... Yellow BLK................................... Black BLU................................... Blue GRN................................... Green RED................................... Red ORN................................... Orange PNK................................... Pink BRN................................... Brown GRY................................... Gray PUR................................... Purple LT BLU................................... Light Blue LT GRN................................... Light Green The wire insulation has one color or one color with another color stripe. The second color is the stripe. How to Identify Connector Terminals How to Identify Connector Terminals Page 8923 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 7376 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Capacity Specifications Refrigerant: Capacity Specifications Refrigerant Capacity 1.10 - 1.20 lbs (US) Page 6232 Connectors - "C" Front Wheel Bearing: Service and Repair Front Knuckle/Hub/Hub Bearing Unit Replacement Special Tools Required Hub assembly driver attachment 07GAF-SD40200 - Ball joint remover, 28 mm 07MAC-SL00200 - Hub dis/assembly tool 07965-SA70100 - Support base 07965-SD90100 NOTICE: To avoid damage, do not strike aluminum parts with a metal hammer. If necessary, tap gently with a plastic tipped hammer. NOTE: Nuts and bolts with the [star] mark are special corrosion-resistant Dacro fasteners. Use the same type if replacement is necessary. 1. Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper location. Page 6323 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 5749 Braking Sensor/Switch: Testing and Inspection Brake Switch Signal Circuit Troubleshooting 1. Check the brake lights. Are the brake lights on without pressing the brake pedal? YES - Inspect the brake switch adjustment. NO - Go to step 2. 2. Press the brake pedal. Do the brake lights come on? YES - Go to step 3. NO - Go to step 4. 3. Measure voltage between ECM connector terminals A32 and B20 with the brake pedal pressed. Is there battery voltage? YES - The brake switch signal is OK. NO - Repair open in the wire between the ECM (A32) and the brake switch. 4. Inspect the No.6 (10 A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box. Is the fuse OK? YES - Repair open in the wire between the brake switch and the No.6 (10 A) fuse. Inspect the brake switch. NO - Repair short in the wire between the ECM(A32) and the No.6 (10 A) fuse. Replace the No.6 (10 A) fuse. Page 478 Engine Control Module: Service and Repair ECM/PCM Idle Learn Procedure ECM Idle Learn Procedure The idle learn procedure must be done so that the ECM can learn the engine idle characteristics. Do the idle learn procedure whenever you do any of these actions: - Disconnect the battery. - Replace the ECM or disconnect its connector. - Reset the ECM. NOTE: Erasing DTCs with Honda PGM Tester does require the idle learn procedure to be done again. - Remove the No.18 (7.5 A) fuse from the under-dash fuse/relay box. - Remove the No.2 (80 A) fuse from the under-hood fuse/relay box. - Remove the PGM-FI main relay. - Remove the battery wire from the under-hood fuse/relay box. - Disconnect any of the connectors from the under-hood fuse/relay box. - Disconnect the connector (C103, C502) between the dashborad wire harness and engine wire harness. - Disconnect the G1 terminal from the transmission housing. - Adjust the idle speed. To complete the idle learn procedure do this: 1. Make sure all electrical items (A/C, audio, rear defogger, lights, etc.) are turned off. 2. Start the engine. Hold the engine speed at 3,000 rpm with no load (in Park or neutral) until the radiator fan comes on, or the engine coolant temperature reaches 176 °F (80 °) - 221 °F (100 °). 3. Let the engine idle for about 5 minutes with the throttle fully closed and with all electrical items off. NOTE: If the radiator fan comes on during this step, the time when it is operating must not be included in the 5 minutes. Page 4497 First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 8032 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 10355 5. Remove the nut and link (A) from the wiper motor (B). 6. Disconnect the 5P connector (A), then remove the four mounting nuts and wiper motor (B). 7. Apply a multipurpose grease to the moving parts and install in the reverse order of removal. Page 3192 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 8967 All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416 etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector or by a capital letter (A, B, C etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Connector Views that shows the connector terminals wire colors connector cavity numbers and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints shown on diagram [8] . Except for the DLC (data link connector) disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554 for example means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Page 7016 2. Remove the cotter pin (A) from the tie-rod end ball joint, and remove the nut (B). 3. Remove the tie-rod end ball joint from the damper using the special tool. 4. Remove the flange nut (A) while holding the joint pin (B) with a hex wrench (C), and disconnect the stabilizer link (D) from the damper. 5. Remove the bolts (A), and remove the wheel sensor harness bracket (B) and brake hose bracket (C) from the damper. Do not disconnect the wheel sensor connector. 6. Remove the damper pinch bolts (D) while holding the nuts (E). Page 3041 2. Remove the carpet hold-down clips on the door sill. 3. Remove the carpet hold-down clip in the passenger's footwell under the glove box. Pull back the carpet. 4. Remove the ECM cover mounting nuts. 5. Pivot the lower edge of the ECM cover off the mounting studs. Lift the upper edge of the cover off the mounting studs, then pull the cover down and back so it clears the evaporator drain tube. 6. Remove the two bolts mounting the ECM to the cover. Disconnect the ECM connectors, and remove the ECM. 7. Install the new ECM and the cover in the reverse order of removal. 8. Reinstall the carpet and the door sill trim. 9. Connect the PGM Tester to the data link connector (DLC). 10. Use the PGM Tester to program the customer's immobilizer key codes into the ECM. Verify that all the keys will start the engine. NOTE: Make sure the PGM Tester software is SN32OP or later. 11. Do the idle learn procedure: ^ Warm the engine to normal operating temperature. ^ Let the engine idle for 10 minutes. If the radiator fan comes on, do not include its running time in the 10 minutes. 12. Center-punch a completion mark above the eighth character of the engine compartment VIN. 13. For California residents: Fill out and give to your customer a Vehicle Emission Recall - Proof of Correction certificate. Advise them to keep this certificate as proof that the emissions recall was completed. Your customer will need to submit this certificate to the DMV if the DMV requests it. A supply of these salmon-colored certificates was sent to your service manager. If you need more, use reorder number Y0657. Locations Hazard Flasher Relay: Locations Turn Signal/Hazard Flasher Page 1828 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 796 36. Left Side of Dash Page 9734 Terminals - "T" Shielding Switches Fuses Page 6252 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Diagram Information and Instructions Alarm/Immobilizer Control Unit: Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System Terminal Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown below is #6. Page 6621 Wire Color Coding Distinct Of Circuit By Wire Base Color All wires have color-coded insulation. Wires belonging to a system's main harness will have a single color. Wires belonging to a system's sub-circuits will have a colored stripe. Striped wires use the codes found in the chart to show wire size and colors. Abbreviations are used to indicate wire color within a circuit diagram. Wire Color Abbreviations The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics: WHT................................... White YEL................................... Yellow BLK................................... Black BLU................................... Blue GRN................................... Green RED................................... Red ORN................................... Orange PNK................................... Pink BRN................................... Brown GRY................................... Gray PUR................................... Purple LT BLU................................... Light Blue LT GRN................................... Light Green The wire insulation has one color or one color with another color stripe. The second color is the stripe. How to Identify Connector Terminals How to Identify Connector Terminals Component Locations Parking Lamp: Component Locations 3. Right Front of Engine Compartment 25. Left Front of Engine Compartment Shift Lever Disassembly and Reassembly Shifter CVT: Service and Repair Shift Lever Disassembly and Reassembly Shift Lever Disassembly and Reassembly Locations Heated Glass Element Relay: Locations Engine Compartment View Page 609 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. Page 7774 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 9238 3. Using the tool, loosen the fuel pump locknut (A), and remove the fuel pump. 4. Measure the resistance between the No.1 and No.2 terminals with the float at E (EMPTY), 1/2 (HALF FULL), and F (FULL) positions. If you do not get the given readings, replace the fuel gauge sending unit (A). 5. Install the pants in the reverse order of removal with a new base gasket and new quick connect retainers, then check these items: Page 4193 DTC P1679 thru P1860 Page 10025 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. Page 844 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 7156 9. Turn the ignition switch ON(II), and check the same terminals for voltage. Is there any voltage? YES - Repair any short to power in the wire(s) between the heater control panel and the recirculation control motor. This short may also damage the heater control panel. Repair the short to power before replacing the heater control panel. NO - Go to step 10. 10. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 11. Check for continuity between the following terminals of heater control panel connector B (22P) and the recirculation control motor 4P connector. 22P: 4P: No. 18 No. 4 No. 19 No. 2 Is there continuity? YES - Check for loose wires or poor connections at heater control panel connector B (22P) and at recirculation control motor 4P connector. If the connections are good, substitute a known-good heater control panel, and recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away, replace the original heater control panel. NO - Repair any open in the wire(s) between the heater control panel and the recirculation control motor. 12. Remove the recirculation control motor. 13. Check the recirculation control linkage and door for smooth movement. Do the recirculation control linkage and door move smoothly? YES - Replace the recirculation control motor. NO - Repair the recirculation control linkage or door. Page 9740 Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution diagram set to get a more detailed picture of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Page 2069 Wire Color Abbreviations Page 8076 In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locater) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: - Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. Page 4755 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 3225 Fuel Supply System - Component Location Index Part 2 Page 6283 Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box Page 7281 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: - Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest OHMS" range. Page 1049 All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416 etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector or by a capital letter (A, B, C etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Connector Views that shows the connector terminals wire colors connector cavity numbers and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints shown on diagram [8] . Except for the DLC (data link connector) disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554 for example means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Page 4538 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 5148 11. Middle of Engine Page 4131 P/N 17012-S01-A00 H/C 5999016 ECM/PCM: P/N 37820-P2P-A12 H/C 6104426 Defect Code: 072 Contention Code: C01 Skill Level: Repair Technician Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Connect the PGM Tester to the 16P data link connector. 2. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). Turn on the PGM Tester. 3. From the PROGRAM MENU screen, select HONDA SYSTEMS. 4. From the SYSTEM SELECT screen, select 1: PGM-FI. 5. From the TEST MODE MENU screen, select 6: INSPECTION. 6. From the INSPECTION MENU screen, select 2: EVAP TEST. 7. From the EVAP TEST MENU, select 1: SINGLE SOLENOIDS. 8. From the SINGLE SOLENOIDS MENU, activate the EVAP bypass solenoid valve. Listen for a click and feel for a light tap from the solenoid valve as you activate it. ^ If you can hear the solenoid valve click or feel it tap when activated, disregard this service bulletin, and look for other possible causes. ^ If you cannot hear the solenoid valve click or feel it tap when activated, go to step 9. 9. Replace the EVAP bypass solenoid valve (see section 11 of the appropriate service manual). 10. Test the new solenoid valve with the PGM Tester. ^ If you can hear the solenoid valve click or feel it tap when activated, go to step 15 or 16 as appropriate. ^ If you cannot hear the solenoid valve click or feel it tap when activated, go to step 11. 11. Check the wire harness and the connectors for damage. ^ If you find any damage, repair it, then go to step 12. ^ If you find no damage in the wire harness or connectors, go to step 13. 12. Test the solenoid valve again with the PGM Tester. ^ If you can hear the solenoid valve click or feel it tap when activated, go to step 15 or 16 as appropriate. ^ If you cannot hear the solenoid valve click or feel it tap when activated, go to step 13. 13. Replace the ECM/PCM (see section 11 of the appropriate service manual). 14. Use the PGM Tester to retest the solenoid valve. ^ If you can hear the solenoid valve click or feel it tap when activated, go to step 15 or 16 as appropriate. Page 5178 Spark Plug: Testing and Inspection Spark Plug Inspection/Replacement 1. Remove the spark plugs, and note which cylinder each one came from. 2. Inspect the electrodes and ceramic insulator. Burned or worn electrodes may be caused by: Advanced ignition timing - Loose spark plug - Insufficient cooling Fouled plug may be caused by: Retarded ignition timing - Oil in combustion chamber - Incorrect spark plug gap - Excessive idling/low speed running - Clogged air cleaner element - Deteriorated ignition coil 3. Do not adjust the gap of iridium tip plugs (A); replace the spark plug if the gap is out of specification. Electrode Gap: Standard (New): 1.0 - 1.1 mm (0.039 - 0.043 in.) Service Limit: 1.3 mm (0.051 in.) 4. Replace the plug at the specified interval, or if the center electrode is rounded (A). Campaign - ECM Update Engine Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins Campaign - ECM Update 00-042 April 5, 2000 Applies To: 2000 Insight - From VIN JHMZE1...YT000001 thru JHMZE1...YT000440 Product Update: Insight ECM BACKGROUND The engine may not start it the ambient temperature is below 0°F (-20°C). CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION All owners of affected vehicles will be mailed a notification of this campaign. An example of a customer notification is shown. CORRECTIVE ACTION Replace the ECM (engine control module) with an improved unit. After the ECM replacement, the immobilizer system must be reinitialized. Make sure you have all the customer's keys. Page 4274 ECM Inputs and Outputs at Connector D (16P) Part 1 Testing and Inspection Windshield Washer Control Module: Testing and Inspection Wiper/Washers Control Circuit Input Test 1. Remove the gauge assembly. 2. Disconnect the 22P connector from the gauge assembly. 3. Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are making good contact. - If the terminals are bent, loose, or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system. - If the terminals look OK, go to step 4. 4. With the connector still disconnected, make these input tests at the connector. - If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system. - If all the input tests prove OK, replace the printed circuit board in the gauge assembly. Page 3498 95. VSS Page 2833 7. Remove the bolts (A). 8. Remove the motor stator (A). NOTE: Clean the mating surfaces of the housing assembly and block, and apply the liquid gasket, P/N 08718-0009, to the mating surfaces. 9. Remove the cover (A) and motor power cables (B). NOTE: ^ Check the position of the U phase, V phase and W phase before disconnecting the motor power cable. Locations 10. Middle of Engine Page 4318 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 9171 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 7292 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. Page 3539 Crankshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation Camshaft Position (CMP) A and B (Top Dead Center (TDC) 1 and 2), and Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensors The CMPA (TDC 1) and CMPB (TDC 2) sensors detect the position of the No.1 cylinder as a reference for sequential fuel injection to each cylinder. The CKP sensor detects engine speed and determines ignition timing and timing for fuel injection of each cylinder. Page 7861 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. Page 8072 Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow from power at the top of the diagram to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another for example is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors Page 7274 Wire Color Coding Distinct Of Circuit By Wire Base Color All wires have color-coded insulation. Wires belonging to a system's main harness will have a single color. Wires belonging to a system's sub-circuits will have a colored stripe. Striped wires use the codes found in the chart to show wire size and colors. Abbreviations are used to indicate wire color within a circuit diagram. Wire Color Abbreviations The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics: WHT................................... White YEL................................... Yellow BLK................................... Black BLU................................... Blue GRN................................... Green RED................................... Red ORN................................... Orange PNK................................... Pink BRN................................... Brown GRY................................... Gray PUR................................... Purple LT BLU................................... Light Blue LT GRN................................... Light Green The wire insulation has one color or one color with another color stripe. The second color is the stripe. How to Identify Connector Terminals How to Identify Connector Terminals Page 8399 - Refer to the scrapping procedures for disposal of the damaged airbag. Page 5802 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: - Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest OHMS" range. Page 7090 4. Remove the hub cap (A), raise the stake (B), and remove the spindle nut (C). 5. Remove the brake drum (A), and remove the hub bearing unit (B) from the spindle. If the brake drum has stuck to the hub bearing unit, pull them out together. Do not tap on the aluminum brake drum. 6. If the hub bearing unit has been removed together with the brake drum, separate these by placing the brake drum on a flat surface, and lightly tapping the hub flange (A) with a plastic hammer. 7. Install the hub bearing unit in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - Use a new spindle nut on reassembly. - Before installing the new spindle nut, apply a small amount of engine oil to the seating surface of the nut. After tightening, use a drift to stake the spindle nut shoulder against the spindle. - Tighten all mounting hardware to the specified torque values. - Before installing the brake drum, clean the mating surface of the hub and the inside of the brake drum, and apply grease (Dow Corning Molykote M77) to the inside circumference (A) of the center hole edge of the brake drum. Do not contaminate the brake drum sliding surface with grease. - Use a new hub cap on reassembly. - Before installing the wheel, clean the mating surface of the brake disc and the inside of the wheel. Page 20 Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution diagram set to get a more detailed picture of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Page 4776 10. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and measure voltage between ECM connector terminals B1 and B20, and between B9 and B20. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 11. NO - Check for an open in the wires between the PGM-FI main relay and the ECM (B1, B9). If the wires are OK, replace the PGM-FI main relay. 11. Turn the ignition switch OFF, then ON (II) again, and measure voltage between ECM connector terminals A15 and B2 within the first two seconds after the ignition switch is turned ON (II). Is there 1.0 V or less? YES - The PGM-FI main relay may be faulty. NO - Update the ECM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM, replace the original ECM. Locations 36. Left Side of Dash Page 4332 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Page 9017 127. DC-DC Converter Page 4759 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Locations Power Transistor HVAC: Locations Heating/Cooling Unit View Page 10014 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: - Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest OHMS" range. Page 1415 33. Seat Belt Switch, Driver's Page 7130 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 10100 66. Turn Signal Light, Left Or Right, Front Page 3733 Page 4820 Fuel Gauge Sender: Service and Repair Fuel Gauge Sending Unit Test/Replacement Fuel Gauge Sending Unit Test/Replacement Special Tools Required Adjustable ring wrench 07XAA-001010A NOTE: This article has been updated as per TSB SN030415. NOTE: For the fuel gauge system circuit diagram, refer to the Gauges Circuit Diagram. Test 1. Check the No.6 fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box before testing. 2. Remove the middle floor panel. 3. Remove the access panel from the floor. 4. Turn the ignition switch OFF, then disconnect the fuel pump 5P connector. 5. Measure voltage between the fuel pump 5P connector terminals No.1 and No.2 with the ignition switch ON (II). There should be Battery Voltage. - If the voltage is as specified, go to step 6. - If the voltage is not as specified, check for: an open in the YEL/BLK or BLK wire. - poor ground (G502). 6. Turn the ignition switch OFF. Remove the No.18 (7.5 A) fuse from the under-dash fuse/relay box for at least 10 seconds, then reinstall it. 7. Install a 2 Ohms resistor between the fuel pump 5P connector terminals No.1 and No.2, then turn the ignition switch ON (II). 8. Check that the pointer of the fuel gauge starts moving toward the "F" mark. - If the pointer of the fuel gauge does not move at all, replace the gauge. - If the gauge is OK, inspect the fuel gauge sending unit. NOTE: Turn the ignition switch OFF before the pointer reaches "F" on the gauge dial. Failure to do so may damage the fuel gauge. - The fuel gauge is a bobbin (cross-coil) type, hence the fuel level is continuously indicated even when the ignition switch is OFF, and the pointer moves more slowly than that of a bimetal type. Replacement 1. Remove the fuel tank. 2. Disconnect the quick-connect fittings from the fuel pump. Page 7597 Solar Sensor: Service and Repair Sunlight Sensor Replacement 1. Remove the sunlight sensor from the dashboard, then disconnect the 2P connector. Be careful not to damage the sensor or the dashboard. 2. Install the sensor in the reverse order of removal. Page 2656 Answer: For IMA battery prices and availability, go to the iN home page and select Parts, select Parts Locator, then select Parts Availability. Enter the part number found at the bottom the IMA Battery Order form in line 1, enter the quantity desired, then select Submit. The IMA battery price, availability, and shipping information is displayed in the Parts Availability field. Question: How can I track my order once I submit it? Answer: To track your order, go to the IMA VIN Inquiry Acknowledgement screen on the iN. 1. From the iN main menu, select SERVICE. 2. Select Remanufactured Parts. 3. Select Order Status Inquiry. 4. Enter a date in the All Orders Accepted Since box, make sure the Order Status Inquiry for Corel VIN is selected, then select Submit. The IMA VIN INQUIRY ACKNOWLEDGEMENT screen appears, listing orders by VIN, ORD REF (Order Reference), STAT (Status), SHIP DATE, SHIPPER, and PART NUMBER. The status of your order is displayed by one of these codes: Codes generated by RPO Tech Line: ^ PEND - Your order is waiting to be processed by RPO Tech Line. ^ HOLD - Your order is waiting for additional dealer diagnosis. ^ ERR - Your order caused an error; call (select option 2). ^ DENY - RPO Tech Line denied your order; call (select option 2). ^ APPR - RPO Tech Line approved your order and forwarded it to AHM Parts. Codes generated by AHM Parts Operations: ^ BO/TOS - Your order is on back order or is temporarily out of stock. ^ CAN/BOC - Your order has been cancelled; contact your assigned parts center. ^ ALO/BOA - Your order has been allocated, but not released for shipment. ^ REL/BOR - Your order has been picked, packed, and shipped. ^ INV - Your order has been invoiced to your dealer parts account. Page 4428 Oxygen Sensor: Connector Locations 16. Rear of Engine 127. Below Rear of Engine Page 1982 Variable Valve Timing Actuator: Diagnostic Aids Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Locations 42. Under Left Side of Dash Page 3378 - Taillight relay Description and Operation Clutch Switch: Description and Operation Clutch pedal position Switch The clutch pedal position switch signals the ECM when the clutch pedal is pressed. Page 8919 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. Specifications Page 168 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 4830 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. Page 5798 All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416 etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector or by a capital letter (A, B, C etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Connector Views that shows the connector terminals wire colors connector cavity numbers and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints shown on diagram [8] . Except for the DLC (data link connector) disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554 for example means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Page 1060 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 2612 Page 7342 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Page 1337 Variable Valve Timing Pressure Switch: Locations 6. Front of Engine Page 820 Wire Color Coding Distinct Of Circuit By Wire Base Color All wires have color-coded insulation. Wires belonging to a system's main harness will have a single color. Wires belonging to a system's sub-circuits will have a colored stripe. Striped wires use the codes found in the chart to show wire size and colors. Abbreviations are used to indicate wire color within a circuit diagram. Wire Color Abbreviations The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics: WHT................................... White YEL................................... Yellow BLK................................... Black BLU................................... Blue GRN................................... Green RED................................... Red ORN................................... Orange PNK................................... Pink BRN................................... Brown GRY................................... Gray PUR................................... Purple LT BLU................................... Light Blue LT GRN................................... Light Green The wire insulation has one color or one color with another color stripe. The second color is the stripe. How to Identify Connector Terminals How to Identify Connector Terminals Page 10277 111. Rear Window Defogger, Fuel Cut, Radiator Fan Main (Climate Control) And Intermittent Wiper Relays Page 9529 EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 10356 Wiper Motor: Service and Repair Rear Window Wiper Motor Replacement Rear Window Wiper Motor Replacement 1. Remove the nut (A), the wiper arm (B) and the special nut(C). 2. Open the hatch and remove the hatch trim panel. 3. Disconnect the 4P connector (A) from the motor (B). 4. Remove the three mounting bolts, then remove the motor. Locations Wiper Relay: Locations Relay And Control Unit Location - Engine Compartment Page 7334 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: Page 309 Locations Solar Sensor: Locations Climate Control - Component Location Index Page 2000 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Page 360 11. Lift out the battery module foam insert. 12. Remove the mounting bolts for the battery condition monitor (BCM) module and the motor control module (MCM). Disconnect the electrical connectors, then remove the modules. 13. Install the new BCM and MCM. Make sure all module connectors are secure. 14. Install the IPU lid. 15. Remove the locking cover from the battery module switch, install the 5 mm bolt, turn the switch on, reinstall the locking cover, and install the battery module switch cover. 16. Install the remaining parts in the reverse order of removal. 17. Reconnect the negative cable to the under-hood 12 V battery. Page 4243 Engine Control Module: Locations PGM-FI System - Component Location Index Page 6198 3. Inspect the armature for wear or damage from contact with the permanent magnet. If there is wear or damage, replace the armature. 4. Check the commutator (A) surface. If the surface is dirty or burnt, resurface with emery cloth or a lathe within the following specifications, or recondition with #500 or #600 sandpaper (B). 5. Check the commutator diameter. If the diameter is below the service limit, replace the armature. Commutator Diameter Standard (New): 28.0 - 28.1 mm (1.102 - 1.106 in.) Service Limit: 27.5 mm (1.083 in.) Page 3639 Camshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair Replacement 1. Disconnect connectors from the camshaft position (CMP) sensor A (top dead center (TDC) sensor 1) and CMP sensor B (TDC sensor 2) Remove the CMP sensor A (TDC sensor 1) sensor (A) and the CMP sensor B (TDC sensor 2) sensor (B). 2. Install the CMP sensor A (TDC sensor 1) sensor and the CMP sensor B (TDC sensor 2) using new O-rings (C). Page 4549 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. Page 6319 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. Page 3482 9. Front of Engine Page 2343 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Page 7803 Seat Belt Tensioner: Service and Repair Deploying Airbags/Tensioner (Inside Vehicle) Airbag Disposal Special Tool Required Deployment tool 07HAZ-SG00500 Before scrapping any airbags (including those in a whole vehicle to be scrapped), the airbags must be deployed. If the vehicle is still within the warranty period, the Honda District Service Manager must give approval and/or special instructions before you deploy the airbags (and seat belt tensioners). Only after the airbags (and seat belt tensioners) have been deployed (as the result of vehicle collision, for example), can they be scrapped. If the airbags (and seat belt tensioners) appear intact (not deployed), treat them with extreme caution. Follow this procedure. Deploying Airbags In the Vehicle If an SRS equipped vehicle is to be entirely scrapped, its airbags (and seat belt tensioners) should be deployed while still in the vehicle. The airbags (and seat belt tensioners) should not be considered as salvageable parts and should never be installed in another vehicle. 1. Turn the ignition switch OFF, disconnect the battery negative cable, and wait at least 3 minutes. 2. Confirm that each airbag and each seat belt tensioner is securely mounted. 3. Confirm that the special tool is functioning properly by following the check procedure on the tool label. Driver's Airbag: 4. Remove the access panel (A), then disconnect the driver's airbag 2P connector (B) from the cable reel. Passenger's Airbag: 5. Remove the glove box, then disconnect the passenger's airbag 2P connector (A) from the floor wire harness. Seat Belt Tensioner: Page 8047 Page 3679 Wires Page 4961 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. Component Locations 111. Top Rear of Battery Module Page 9169 First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 8491 43. Under Left Side of Dash (Honda Accessory) Page 6642 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. Page 3075 DTC P0750 thru P0977 Page 8041 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. Component Locations Power Door Lock Control Module: Component Locations Relay And Control Unit Locations - Dashboard Page 3696 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 7727 2. Soak a clean cloth in the cleaner. Insert the cloth between the seat belt and metal loop on the upper anchor. Use a credit card or similar item to help insert the cloth into the loop. Work the cloth back and forth to clean the dirt out of the inside of the loop. 3. Pull the seat belt out fully. Soak a clean cloth in the cleaner, and clean both sides of the seat belt webbing. Dry the webbing thoroughly with a clean cloth. Do not use a hair dryer or similar device. 4. Test the belt for proper retraction by pulling the latch plate down to the floor of the vehicle and then releasing it. The belt should retract fully in 4 seconds or less. Three-Point Passive Seat Belts 1. Clean the metal loop in the upper anchor as described for Three-Point Active Seat Belts. 2. Remove the door panel and the seat belt guide. Refer to the appropriate service manual. 3. Soak a clean cloth in the cleaner, and clean both sides of the seat belt webbing. Dry the webbing thoroughly with a clean cloth. Do not use a hair dryer or similar device. Page 547 Terminals - "T" Shielding Switches Fuses Page 4524 Wires Page 1097 Wires Diagrams 185. Idle Stop Switch (CVT) Locations Knock Sensor: Locations PGM-FI System - Component Location Index Page 7687 157. SRS Unit Page 1380 Camshaft Position Sensor: Diagrams 63. TDC Sensor 1 64. TDC Sensor 2 Page 4017 Wires Page 4911 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 4853 Wire Color Abbreviations Page 7864 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Page 887 Wheel Speed Sensor: Diagrams 68. Wheel Speed Sensor, Left Front 68. Wheel Speed Sensor, Left Front 68. Wheel Speed Sensor, Left Front Specifications Page 4316 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: - Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest OHMS" range. Page 4155 P/N 17012-S01-A00 H/C 5999016 ECM/PCM: P/N 37820-P2P-A12 H/C 6104426 Defect Code: 072 Contention Code: C01 Skill Level: Repair Technician Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Connect the PGM Tester to the 16P data link connector. 2. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). Turn on the PGM Tester. 3. From the PROGRAM MENU screen, select HONDA SYSTEMS. 4. From the SYSTEM SELECT screen, select 1: PGM-FI. 5. From the TEST MODE MENU screen, select 6: INSPECTION. 6. From the INSPECTION MENU screen, select 2: EVAP TEST. 7. From the EVAP TEST MENU, select 1: SINGLE SOLENOIDS. 8. From the SINGLE SOLENOIDS MENU, activate the EVAP bypass solenoid valve. Listen for a click and feel for a light tap from the solenoid valve as you activate it. ^ If you can hear the solenoid valve click or feel it tap when activated, disregard this service bulletin, and look for other possible causes. ^ If you cannot hear the solenoid valve click or feel it tap when activated, go to step 9. 9. Replace the EVAP bypass solenoid valve (see section 11 of the appropriate service manual). 10. Test the new solenoid valve with the PGM Tester. ^ If you can hear the solenoid valve click or feel it tap when activated, go to step 15 or 16 as appropriate. ^ If you cannot hear the solenoid valve click or feel it tap when activated, go to step 11. 11. Check the wire harness and the connectors for damage. ^ If you find any damage, repair it, then go to step 12. ^ If you find no damage in the wire harness or connectors, go to step 13. 12. Test the solenoid valve again with the PGM Tester. ^ If you can hear the solenoid valve click or feel it tap when activated, go to step 15 or 16 as appropriate. ^ If you cannot hear the solenoid valve click or feel it tap when activated, go to step 13. 13. Replace the ECM/PCM (see section 11 of the appropriate service manual). 14. Use the PGM Tester to retest the solenoid valve. ^ If you can hear the solenoid valve click or feel it tap when activated, go to step 15 or 16 as appropriate. Page 5540 Locations Solar Sensor: Locations Climate Control - Component Location Index Page 516 EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 9696 Wire Color Coding Distinct Of Circuit By Wire Base Color All wires have color-coded insulation. Wires belonging to a system's main harness will have a single color. Wires belonging to a system's sub-circuits will have a colored stripe. Striped wires use the codes found in the chart to show wire size and colors. Abbreviations are used to indicate wire color within a circuit diagram. Wire Color Abbreviations The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics: WHT................................... White YEL................................... Yellow BLK................................... Black BLU................................... Blue GRN................................... Green RED................................... Red ORN................................... Orange PNK................................... Pink BRN................................... Brown GRY................................... Gray PUR................................... Purple LT BLU................................... Light Blue LT GRN................................... Light Green The wire insulation has one color or one color with another color stripe. The second color is the stripe. How to Identify Connector Terminals How to Identify Connector Terminals Page 4257 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Page 2042 5. If the filter is not clogged, push the VTEC solenoid valve with your finger and check its movement. If the VTEC solenoid valve is normal, check the engine oil pressure. Page 7512 Wire Color Abbreviations Page 4447 Throttle Position Sensor: Description and Operation Throttle Position (TP) Sensor The TP sensor is a potentiometer connected to the throttle valve shaft. As the throttle position changes, the sensor varies the signal voltage to the ECM. The TP sensor is not replaceable apart from the throttle body. Page 10202 Power Window Switch: Service and Repair Passenger's Window Switch Test/Replacement Passenger's Window Switch Test/Replacement 1. Remove the passenger's door panel. 2. Disconnect the 5P connector (A) from the passenger's power window switch (B). 3. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table. 4. If the continuity is not as specified, remove the two screws and replace the switch. Page 9838 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. Page 7900 Page 9779 Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow from power at the top of the diagram to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another for example is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors Page 1161 145. Combination Light Switch Page 8085 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: Page 7265 3. Right Front of Engine Compartment Page 6951 11. Remove the ground cable terminal (A) from the gearbox housing. 12. Remove the four gearbox mounting bolts. Right side Left side Page 1029 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 881 Parking Brake Warning Switch: Diagrams 13. Parking Brake Switch 13. Parking Brake Switch Page 8017 Splices Components Ground - "G" Page 368 9. Connect the PGM Tester to the data link connector (DLC). 10. Use the PGM Tester to program the customer's immobilizer key codes into the ECM. Verity that all the keys will start the engine. 11. Center-punch a completion mark above the first character (J) of the engine compartment VIN. Disclaimer Page 3265 5. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). Measure voltage between body ground and PGM-FI main relay (fuel pump) 4P connector terminal No.2, and between PGM-FI main relay (IGP) 4P connector terminal No.4. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 7. NO - Go to step 6. 6. Check for a blown No.2 (15 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box. Is the fuse blown? YES - Repair the short in the wire between PGM-FI main relay and the No.2 fuse. NO - Repair the open in the wire between the PGM-FI main relay and the No.2 (15 A) fuse. 7. Turn the ignition switch OFF, and disconnect ECM connector A (32P). 8. Check for continuity between PGM-FI main relay (fuel pump) 4P connector terminal No.3 and ECM connector terminal A15. Is there continuity? YES - Go to step 9. NO - Repair open in the wire between the PGM-FI main relay and the ECM (A15). 9. Reconnect ECM connector A (32P) and the PGM-FI main relay connectors. Page 4000 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 4140 DTC P0401 thru P0562 Locations Camshaft Position Sensor: Locations PGM-FI System - Component Location Index Page 7484 Refrigerant Pressure Sensor / Switch: Description and Operation A/C Pressure Switch The A/C pressure switch is located in the condenser outlet line where refrigerant is in a high temperature/high pressure liquid state. The switch will sense abnormally high or low pressure, and open the circuit. This removes ground from the PCM, and turns off the compressor. Page 7407 Evaporator Temperature Sensor / Switch: Diagrams 38. Evaporator Temperature Sensor 58. Evaporator Temperature Sensor Page 8830 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Locations Heating/Cooling Unit View Page 3360 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 656 5. After installing the SRS unit, confirm proper system operation: Turn the ignition switch ON (II); the SRS indicator should come on for about 6 seconds and then go off. Page 8314 Trunk / Liftgate Switch: Service and Repair Hatch Opener Switch Replacement NOTE: - Take care not to scratch the hatch. - Put on gloves to protect your hands. 1. Remove the hatch trim panel. 2. Remove the hatch opener switch as shown. 3. Install the hatch opener switch in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - Make sure the connector is plugged in properly. - Make sure the hatch opens properly. Testing and Inspection Oxygen Sensor Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relay Test Normally-open type A: 1. Turn the battery module switch OFF, and measure the voltage. 2. Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is disconnected. A/C compressor clutch relay - Air fuel ratio sensor relay - Condenser fan relay - Daytime running lights relay (Canada) - Headlight relay 1 - Headlight relay 2 - High speed battery module fan control relay - High speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - High voltage conductor control relay - Horn relay - Ignition hold relay - Low speed battery module fan control relay - Low speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - Power window relay - Radiator fan relay - Rear window defogger relay - Reverse relay - Starter cut relay Description and Operation Barometric Pressure Sensor: Description and Operation Barometric Pressure (BARO) Sensor The BARO sensor is inside the ECM. It converts atmospheric pressure into a voltage signal that modifies the basic duration of the fuel injection discharge. Page 9971 129. Hazard Warning Switch Page 7522 Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution diagram set to get a more detailed picture of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Page 250 Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow from power at the top of the diagram to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another for example is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors Page 6406 Relay Box: Electrical Diagrams Connector-to-Fuse/Relay Box Index Image 6-1 Page 2968 6. Remove the right trunk shelf support (five clips and two bolts). 7. Remove the six mid-frame cover bolts. Remove the intelligent power unit (IPU) lid (17 bolts). 8. Measure the voltage at the junction board terminals. There should be 30 V or less. If you read more than 30 V, there is a problem in the circuit; do the DTC troubleshooting first. 9. Look at the part number on the motor control module (MCM), and refer to this chart. If there is a replacement part number listed for it, you need to order a replacement MCM. 10. Look at the part number on the battery condition monitor (BCM). If the part number is not 1K100-PHM-A01, you need to order a replacement BCM. Page 8653 In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locater) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: - Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. Page 8480 77. Rear of Driver's Door Page 3944 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: - Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest OHMS" range. Page 4551 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 7703 - Refer to the scrapping procedures for disposal of the damaged airbag. Page 7832 50. Right Side of Steering Column Page 5928 Parking Brake Cable: Service and Repair Replacement 1. Remove the brake drum and shoes, and disconnect the parking brake cable from the brake shoe. 2. Remove the clip (A) from the cable holder (B), and remove the parking brake cable end (C) from the backing plate. 3. Insert the parking brake cable end into the cable holder, and align the protrusion (D) on the cable with the cutout (E) on the cable holder. Install the clip (A) into the groove (F) on the cable holder. Make sure the round side (G) of the clip faces toward the backing plate. 4. Connect the parking brake cable to the brake shoe, and install the shoe assembly and brake drum. Testing and Inspection Windshield Washer Control Module: Testing and Inspection Wiper/Washers Control Circuit Input Test 1. Remove the gauge assembly. 2. Disconnect the 22P connector from the gauge assembly. 3. Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are making good contact. - If the terminals are bent, loose, or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system. - If the terminals look OK, go to step 4. 4. With the connector still disconnected, make these input tests at the connector. - If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system. - If all the input tests prove OK, replace the printed circuit board in the gauge assembly. Page 4576 Catalytic Converter: Technical Service Bulletins Catalytic Converter - Rotten Egg Smell SOURCE: Honda Service News July 2003 TITLE: Rotten Egg Smell? Could Be the Catalytic Converter APPLIES TO: All Models SERVICE TIP: Are customers complaining of a rotten egg smell, but you can't find anything wrong with their vehicles to account for it [there's no DTC(s) set, no driveability problems reported, nothing damaged or broken]? Then it could well be coming from the catalytic converter. That smell is a release of built up hydrogen sulfide (H2S) from the reaction of organic sulfur compounds in the gasoline with the catalyst in the converter. Almost all gasoline contains some amount of organic sulfur compounds, and that amount varies by region. The more sulfur there is in the gasoline, the more H2S is built up and released by the catalytic converter, so the stronger the smell. In California, where low-sulfur gasoline is actually required by state law, sulfur smell complaints are few and far between. The folks at the Environmental Protection Agency have issued a requirement for the phasing-in of low-sulfur gasoline nationwide between 2004 and 2006. This low-sulfur gasoline should go a long way toward making complaints of rotten egg smell a thing of the past. Page 1504 Power Window Switch: Diagrams 119. Window Switch, Passenger's 138. Power Window Switch, Master Page 2748 ECU Module Kit: P/N 06060-PHM-305, H/C 6912901 WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION Operation Number: 118121 Flat Rate Time: 0.8 hour Failed Part: P/N 1K100-PHM-010 H/C 6377170 Defect Code: 5AG Contention Code: L43 Template ID: 01-102A Skill Level: Repair Technician Disclaimer Repair Procedure 1. Write down the radio station presets. 2. Make sure the ignition switch is off, then disconnect the negative cable from the under-hood 12 V battery. 3. Remove the cargo floor mat and the cargo box (see page 20-43 of the 2000 Insight Service Manual). 4. Remove the battery module switch cover, then remove the locking cover from the switch. 5. Turn off the battery module switch. Reinstall the locking cover on the switch, and remove the 5 mm bolt on the side of the switch. 6. Wait at least 5 minutes for the capacitors in the system to discharge. Page 6375 Splices Components Ground - "G" Page 573 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 2057 8. Remove the camshaft holders. Measure the widest portion of plastigage on each journal. ^ If the camshaft-to-holder clearance is within limits, go to step 10. ^ If the camshaft-to-holder clearance is beyond the service limit and the camshaft has been replaced, replace the cylinder head. ^ If the camshaft-to-holder clearance is beyond the service limit and the camshaft has not been replaced, go to step 9. Camshaft-to-Holder Oil Clearance: Standard (New): 0.050 - 0.089 mm (0.0020 - 0.0035 inch) Service Limit: 0.15 mm (0.006 inch) 9. Check the total runout with the camshaft supported on V-blocks. ^ If the total runout of the camshaft is within the service limit, replace the cylinder head. ^ If the total runout is beyond the service limit, replace the camshaft and recheck the camshaft-to-holder oil clearance. If the oil clearance is still out of tolerance, replace the cylinder head. Camshaft Total Runout: Standard (New): 0.03 mm (0.001 inch) max. Service Limit: 0.04 mm (0.002 inch) Page 6095 Starting System - Component Location Index Page 6851 134. Under Right Side of Kick Panel (CVT) Page 1374 Throttle Position Sensor: Description and Operation Throttle Position (TP) Sensor The TP sensor is a potentiometer connected to the throttle valve shaft. As the throttle position changes, the sensor varies the signal voltage to the ECM. The TP sensor is not replaceable apart from the throttle body. Page 1988 First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 7918 Programming the Transmitter This transmitter is not programmable. Ordering a Transmitter This transmitter is no longer available. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses two batteries. 97-99 EV Plus With Factory-Installed Security System 1997-99 EV Plus with factory-installed security system Programming the Transmitter NOTES: ^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased. ^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the programming mode. ^ You must complete steps 1-6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from exiting the programming mode. 1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter can be used for this step.) 3. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 4. Repeat steps 1, 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2. 5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode. 7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted the transmitter's code. 5. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered only through Tech Line. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery. 00-04 Insight With Factory-Installed Keyless Entry System 2000-04 Insight with factory-installed keyless entry system Page 9550 Diodes How to Identify Wiring Color-Coded Insulation Wire Color Page 1959 - Shift to the D position, then to the N position. - Turn off the engine. It is best to tow the vehicle no farther than 50 miles (80 km), and keep the speed below 35 mph (55 km/h). NOTE: - Improper preparation will damage the transmission. Follow the above procedure exactly. If you cannot shift the transmission, the vehicle must be transported on a flat-bed. - Trying to lift or tow the vehicle by the bumpers will cause serious damage. The bumpers are not designed to support the vehicle's weight. Locations Gauges - Component Location Index Locations Idle Control System - Component Location Index Page 7532 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 3816 DTC P1679 thru P1860 Page 9326 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: - Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest OHMS" range. Page 5850 15. Press the wheel bearing inner race (A) out of the hub (B) using the special tool, a commercially available bearing separator (C), and a press. 16. Remove the splash guard (A) from the knuckle (B). 17. Remove the flange bolts (A), and remove the hub bearing unit (B) from the knuckle. 18. Wash the knuckle and hub thoroughly in high flash point solvent before reassembly. Diagram Information and Instructions Variable Valve Timing Solenoid: Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System Terminal Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown below is #6. Page 3786 Page 8958 Wire Color Abbreviations Page 308 18. Remove the EPS fuse from the under-hood fusel relay box. 19. With the transmission in neutral and the clutch released, run the engine at 3,500 rpm until the battery level indicator shows at least 50 percent charge. 20. Turn off the engine, then install the EPS fuse. 21. Enter the radio station presets, and set the clock. 22. Center-punch a completion mark above the sixth character of the engine compartment VIN. Page 8726 Splices Components Ground - "G" Page 5818 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Locations 48. Left Side of Steering Column Page 6097 Starter Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relay Test Normally-open type A: 1. Turn the battery module switch OFF, and measure the voltage. 2. Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is disconnected. A/C compressor clutch relay - Air fuel ratio sensor relay - Condenser fan relay - Daytime running lights relay (Canada) - Headlight relay 1 - Headlight relay 2 - High speed battery module fan control relay - High speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - High voltage conductor control relay - Horn relay - Ignition hold relay - Low speed battery module fan control relay - Low speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - Power window relay - Radiator fan relay - Rear window defogger relay - Reverse relay - Starter cut relay Page 8913 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 888 71. Wheel Speed Sensor, Right Rear Page 1875 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: Locations 93. Left Side of PCU (PCU Removed) Page 6087 7. Remove the under-cover (two bolts, two clips, and three screw clips). 8. Remove the IPU (intelligent power unit) lid (six Torx bolts and 17 hex bolts). 9. Measure voltage at the junction board terminals. ^ If the reading is 30 V or less, the capacitors are discharged enough for you to continue; go to step 10. ^ If the reading is more than 30 V, there is a problem with the IMA system. Troubleshoot the system using the IMA section of the service manual, then continue with this procedure. 10. Lift out the battery module foam insert. Trim Removal/Installation - Door Areas Trim Panel: Service and Repair Trim Removal/Installation - Door Areas Trim Removal/Installation - Door Areas Special Tools Required KTC trim tool set SOJATP2014 * *Available through the American Honda Tool and Equipment Program NOTE: - Put on gloves to protect your hands. - Use the appropriate tool from the KTC trim tool set to avoid damage when prying components. - Take care not to bend or scratch the trim and panels. 1. Remove the trim as shown. Use the numbered sequence on the A-pillar trim. 2. Install the trim in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - Check for damaged or stress-whitened clips, and replace them with new ones. - Before reinstalling the door weatherstrip, clean the body bonding surface with alcohol. - Apply clear sealant (Cemedine P/N 08712-0004, or equivalent) into the groove of the door weatherstrip all the way around. Attach the door weatherstrip with sealant and adhesive tape. - Push the clips into place securely. Page 2017 All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416 etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector or by a capital letter (A, B, C etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Connector Views that shows the connector terminals wire colors connector cavity numbers and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints shown on diagram [8] . Except for the DLC (data link connector) disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554 for example means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Page 2939 4. Flip the battery module switch to OFF, then reinstall the locking cover. 5. Wait at least 5 minutes for the capacitors in the system to discharge. 6. Remove the rear clips from the middle bulkhead carpet. 7. Remove the under-cover (two bolts, two clips, and three screw clips). 8. Remove the IPU (intelligent power unit) lid (six Torx bolts and 17 hex bolts). Page 2681 18. Remove the EPS fuse from the under-hood fusel relay box. 19. With the transmission in neutral and the clutch released, run the engine at 3,500 rpm until the battery level indicator shows at least 50 percent charge. 20. Turn off the engine, then install the EPS fuse. 21. Enter the radio station presets, and set the clock. 22. Center-punch a completion mark above the sixth character of the engine compartment VIN. Page 4227 Page 9615 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Page 3552 7. Front of Engine Page 2483 Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Description and Operation ECT (Engine Coolant Temperature) Sensor The ECT sensor is a temperature dependent resistor (thermistor). The resistance of the thermistor decreases as the engine coolant temperature increases. Page 8029 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 6236 Wire Color Coding Distinct Of Circuit By Wire Base Color All wires have color-coded insulation. Wires belonging to a system's main harness will have a single color. Wires belonging to a system's sub-circuits will have a colored stripe. Striped wires use the codes found in the chart to show wire size and colors. Abbreviations are used to indicate wire color within a circuit diagram. Wire Color Abbreviations The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics: WHT................................... White YEL................................... Yellow BLK................................... Black BLU................................... Blue GRN................................... Green RED................................... Red ORN................................... Orange PNK................................... Pink BRN................................... Brown GRY................................... Gray PUR................................... Purple LT BLU................................... Light Blue LT GRN................................... Light Green The wire insulation has one color or one color with another color stripe. The second color is the stripe. How to Identify Connector Terminals How to Identify Connector Terminals Page 8966 Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow from power at the top of the diagram to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another for example is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors Page 6820 19. Install the hub bearing unit (A) on the knuckle (B), and tighten the flange bolts (C) to the specified torque. 20. Install the splash guard. NOTE: Replace the splash guard if it is corroded. 21. Press a new hub bearing unit (A) into the hub (B) using the special tools and a press. 22. Install the knuckle/hub/hub bearing unit in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - Use a new spindle nut on reassembly. - Before installing the new spindle nut, apply a small amount of engine oil to the seating surface of the nut. After tightening, use a drift to stake the spindle nut shoulder against the driveshaft. - Tighten all mounting hardware to the specified torque values. - Before installing the hub/hub bearing unit, clean the mating surface of the hub/hub bearing unit and the knuckle. - Before installing the brake disc, clean the mating surface of the hub and the inside of the brake disc. - Before installing the wheel, clean the mating surface of the brake disc and the inside of the wheel. - Set the wheel alignment. Page 10118 Terminals - "T" Shielding Switches Fuses Page 4619 121. EGR Valve And EGR Valve Position Sensor Page 4952 Cavity Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity / terminal shown is # 6. Circuit Schematics Page 5513 4. Install the inboard boot heat cover (A). 5. Install the outboard joint (A) into the front hub (B). 6. Install the knuckle (A) onto the lower arm (B). Be careful not to damage the ball joint boot (C). Wipe off the grease before tightening the nut at the ball joint. Torque the castle nut (D) to the lower torque specification, then tighten it only far enough to align the slot with the pin hole. Do not align the nut by loosening. 7. Install the new cotter pin (E) into the pin hole, and bend the cotter pin as shown. 8. Install the ABS wheel sensor harness clamp (A) and brake hose clamp (B). Page 4460 18. Middle Rear of Engine 130. Transmission Housing (CVT) Page 503 Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution diagram set to get a more detailed picture of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Page 1498 Rear Window Defogger - Component Location Index Carpet Replacement Carpet: Service and Repair Carpet Replacement Carpet Replacement SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations and the precautions and procedures before performing repairs or service. NOTE: - Put on gloves to protect your hands. - Take care not to damage, wrinkle or twist the carpet. - Be careful not to damage the dashboard or other interior trim pieces. - Before disconnecting the negative cable from the battery, make sure you have the anti-theft code for the radio, then write down the customer's radio station presets. - Disconnect the negative cable from the battery, and wait at least 3 minutes before beginning work. - Use a T30 Torx bit to remove the SRS unit mounting bolts and ground bolt. 1. Remove these items, then remove the carpet in the numbered sequence: - Seats - B-pillar lower trim panel, both sides - Front console and rear console - Instrument panel and gauge assembly - Glove box Locations Fuel Shut-off Solenoid Relay: Locations Relay And Control Unit Location - Engine Compartment Page 8857 Wires Page 8646 Diodes How to Identify Wiring Color-Coded Insulation Wire Color Component Locations Fuse: Component Locations Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box Part 1 Page 6902 Wire Color Abbreviations Page 599 Terminals - "T" Shielding Switches Fuses Page 224 Relay And Control Unit Locations - Dashboard Page 5180 Spark Plug: Service and Repair Spark Plug Inspection/Replacement 1. Remove the spark plugs, and note which cylinder each one came from. 2. Inspect the electrodes and ceramic insulator. Burned or worn electrodes may be caused by: Advanced ignition timing - Loose spark plug - Insufficient cooling Fouled plug may be caused by: Retarded ignition timing - Oil in combustion chamber - Incorrect spark plug gap - Excessive idling/low speed running - Clogged air cleaner element - Deteriorated ignition coil 3. Do not adjust the gap of iridium tip plugs (A); replace the spark plug if the gap is out of specification. Electrode Gap: Standard (New): 1.0 - 1.1 mm (0.039 - 0.043 in.) Service Limit: 1.3 mm (0.051 in.) 4. Replace the plug at the specified interval, or if the center electrode is rounded (A). Page 3817 DTC P1861 thru P2238 Page 617 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Page 2824 3. Remove the battery module cover (A) from the IPU lid, and remove the locking cover (B) from the battery module switch. 4. Turn the switch (A) OFF, then turn the locking cover around (B) and put it back on the switch. 5. Wait for at least five minutes to let the condensers discharge. 6. Remove the under-cover (2 screws, 4 clips). 7. Remove the IPU lid. Page 9612 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. Page 10143 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Page 9482 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. Page 4326 EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 1880 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. Page 8061 50. Right Side of Steering Column Page 6624 All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416 etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector or by a capital letter (A, B, C etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Connector Views that shows the connector terminals wire colors connector cavity numbers and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints shown on diagram [8] . Except for the DLC (data link connector) disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554 for example means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Diagram Information and Instructions Parking Lamp: Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System Terminal Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown below is #6. Testing and Inspection Wiper Control Module: Testing and Inspection Control Circuit Input Test 1. Remove the gauge assembly. 2. Disconnect the 22P connector from the gauge assembly. 3. Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are making good contact. - If the terminals are bent, loose, or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system. - If the terminals look OK, go to step 4. 4. With the connector still disconnected, make these input tests at the connector. - If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system. - If all the input tests prove OK, replace the printed circuit board in the gauge assembly. Page 4115 ECU Module Kit: P/N 06060-PHM-305, H/C 6912901 WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION Operation Number: 118121 Flat Rate Time: 0.8 hour Failed Part: P/N 1K100-PHM-010 H/C 6377170 Defect Code: 5AG Contention Code: L43 Template ID: 01-102A Skill Level: Repair Technician Disclaimer Repair Procedure 1. Write down the radio station presets. 2. Make sure the ignition switch is off, then disconnect the negative cable from the under-hood 12 V battery. 3. Remove the cargo floor mat and the cargo box (see page 20-43 of the 2000 Insight Service Manual). 4. Remove the battery module switch cover, then remove the locking cover from the switch. 5. Turn off the battery module switch. Reinstall the locking cover on the switch, and remove the 5 mm bolt on the side of the switch. 6. Wait at least 5 minutes for the capacitors in the system to discharge. Page 3754 P/N 17012-S01-A00 H/C 5999016 ECM/PCM: P/N 37820-P2P-A12 H/C 6104426 Defect Code: 072 Contention Code: C01 Skill Level: Repair Technician Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Connect the PGM Tester to the 16P data link connector. 2. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). Turn on the PGM Tester. 3. From the PROGRAM MENU screen, select HONDA SYSTEMS. 4. From the SYSTEM SELECT screen, select 1: PGM-FI. 5. From the TEST MODE MENU screen, select 6: INSPECTION. 6. From the INSPECTION MENU screen, select 2: EVAP TEST. 7. From the EVAP TEST MENU, select 1: SINGLE SOLENOIDS. 8. From the SINGLE SOLENOIDS MENU, activate the EVAP bypass solenoid valve. Listen for a click and feel for a light tap from the solenoid valve as you activate it. ^ If you can hear the solenoid valve click or feel it tap when activated, disregard this service bulletin, and look for other possible causes. ^ If you cannot hear the solenoid valve click or feel it tap when activated, go to step 9. 9. Replace the EVAP bypass solenoid valve (see section 11 of the appropriate service manual). 10. Test the new solenoid valve with the PGM Tester. ^ If you can hear the solenoid valve click or feel it tap when activated, go to step 15 or 16 as appropriate. ^ If you cannot hear the solenoid valve click or feel it tap when activated, go to step 11. 11. Check the wire harness and the connectors for damage. ^ If you find any damage, repair it, then go to step 12. ^ If you find no damage in the wire harness or connectors, go to step 13. 12. Test the solenoid valve again with the PGM Tester. ^ If you can hear the solenoid valve click or feel it tap when activated, go to step 15 or 16 as appropriate. ^ If you cannot hear the solenoid valve click or feel it tap when activated, go to step 13. 13. Replace the ECM/PCM (see section 11 of the appropriate service manual). 14. Use the PGM Tester to retest the solenoid valve. ^ If you can hear the solenoid valve click or feel it tap when activated, go to step 15 or 16 as appropriate. Page 4254 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 8811 Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution diagram set to get a more detailed picture of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Page 8537 5. Check your work by running your fingers over the cleaned and lubricated surface to feel for any remaining contamination. ^ If you feel any particles on the cleaned surface fold the clay in half, knead it back into a disk shape, clean the section again, and recheck your work. ^ If the cleaned surface feels smooth, fold the clay in half, knead it back into a disk shape, and go to step 6. NOTE: You must carefully fold and knead the clay to keep a clean side next to the paint surface. Never use clay that has fallen on the ground. Any small pieces of dirt or sand that imbed in the clay will scratch the paint surface. If the clay falls on the ground, discard it and get a fresh piece. 6. Clean the remaining sections of the sprayed area (repeat steps 4 and 5). 7. Wipe the lubricant from all the cleaned sections with a clean terry cloth towel. 8. Clean the rest of the affected panel and any additional panels that need cleaning (repeat steps 3 thru 7). 9. Apply the manufacturer's recommended wax or glaze to all the cleaned panels. Disclaimer Page 9135 EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 7336 EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 822 Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow from power at the top of the diagram to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another for example is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors Page 8306 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. Page 9276 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Page 514 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: Page 9130 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 4516 67. VTEC Oil Pressure Switch Locations Solar Sensor: Locations Climate Control - Component Location Index Page 9840 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. Page 1132 4. With the connectors still disconnected, make these input tests at the connector. - If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system. - If all the input tests prove OK, go to step 5. 5. Connect the connectors to the gauge assembly and make these input tests at the connector. - If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system. - If all the input tests prove OK, replace the printed circuit board in the gauge assembly. Page 1558 6. Test-drive the vehicle to make sure it no longer pulls. If the steering wheel is now off-center by more than 2 mm, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE C. 7. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC. NOTE: Enter each reading in decimal degrees. Example 30' = 0.50. REPAIR PROCEDURE C 1. Make sure the steering wheel is centered. ^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the right until it stops. ^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left, and count the number of revolutions until it stops. ^ Divide the number of revolutions in half, and turn the steering wheel until it is centered. For example, if it takes four revolutions of the steering wheel to go from lock to lock, then two turns is centered. ^ If the steering wheel is off-center by a large amount (20 mm or more), it may not be centered on the steering column shaft. Reinstall the steering wheel before going to step 2. 2. Place the vehicle on a lift, turn the steering wheel until it is centered, and then raise the vehicle. 3. Adjust the tie-rods. Use your measurements from question 13 of the test-drive to make your adjustment. Page 8667 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. Page 9433 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Page 6769 1. Place the vehicle on a commercially available, computerized, four-wheel alignment rack, and record the following measurements. Follow the equipment manufacturer's instructions. NOTE: Enter each reading in decimal degrees. Example 30' = 0.50. 2. If any measurement is out of specification, inspect the front suspension for any damage. Repair any damaged parts before continuing your diagnosis. 3. Determine how the front wheel camber is affecting the pull. Pick the combination of left- and right-front camber that best matches the vehicle you are repairing, then note the camber thrust direction for that combination: NOTE: ^ If the camber of both front wheels is negative, but one wheel is grossly more negative than the other, the camber thrust direction will be opposite the wheel with more negative camber (for example, if the left-front wheel is more negative, the camber thrust direction is right). ^ If the camber of both front wheels is positive, but one wheel is grossly more positive than the other, the camber thrust direction will be the same as the wheel with more positive camber (for example, if the left-front wheel is more positive, the camber thrust direction is left). 4. Determine how the camber needs to be adjusted. 5. Adjust the camber as needed. Front Camber Adjustment, Double Wishbone Suspension Page 513 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 6651 Fuse-to-components Index Image 6 Page 1315 Oxygen Sensor: Diagrams 103. Secondary HO2S 128. Primary HO2S ('00 And Early Production '01) Page 5849 10. Remove the cotter pin (A) from the lower arm ball joint, and remove the castle nut (B). 11. Remove the lower arm ball joint from the knuckle using the special tool. NOTE: Make sure you position the ball joint remover jaw on the bushing (D) and not on the aluminum surface of the knuckle. 12. Loosen the damper pinch bolts (A) while holding the nuts (B), and remove the bolts and nuts. 13. Pull the knuckle off of the driveshaft while holding the outboard joint (C), and remove the knuckle from the damper. NOTE: Do not pull the driveshaft end outward. The driveshaft joint may come off. 14. Separate the hub (A) from the hub bearing unit (B) using the special tool and a press. Hold onto the hub to keep it from falling when pressed clear. Page 967 97. A/C Pressure Switch Locations 80. Middle Front of Roof Page 6931 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Page 9228 Fuel Gauge Sender: Technical Service Bulletins Fuel Gauge Sending Unit - Service Manual Revision SOURCE: Honda Service News April 2003 TITLE: S/M Fix: Fuel Gauge Sending Unit Test APPLIES TO: 2000-03 Insight SERVICE TIP: Step 6 on page 11-192 of the 2000-03 Insight S/M lists the wrong measured voltage between terminals No. 1 and No. 2 of the fuel pump 5P connector. The right measured voltage should be battery voltage. Fix your copies of the S/M to look like this: Page 144 Wire Color Coding Distinct Of Circuit By Wire Base Color All wires have color-coded insulation. Wires belonging to a system's main harness will have a single color. Wires belonging to a system's sub-circuits will have a colored stripe. Striped wires use the codes found in the chart to show wire size and colors. Abbreviations are used to indicate wire color within a circuit diagram. Wire Color Abbreviations The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics: WHT................................... White YEL................................... Yellow BLK................................... Black BLU................................... Blue GRN................................... Green RED................................... Red ORN................................... Orange PNK................................... Pink BRN................................... Brown GRY................................... Gray PUR................................... Purple LT BLU................................... Light Blue LT GRN................................... Light Green The wire insulation has one color or one color with another color stripe. The second color is the stripe. How to Identify Connector Terminals How to Identify Connector Terminals Page 142 Terminals - "T" Shielding Switches Fuses Locations Oil Pressure Sender: Locations Gauges - Component Location Index Locations Fuel Shut-off Solenoid Relay: Locations Relay And Control Unit Location - Engine Compartment Page 3050 11. Lift out the battery module foam insert. 12. Remove the mounting bolts for the battery condition monitor (BCM) module and the motor control module (MCM). Disconnect the electrical connectors, then remove the modules. 13. Install the new BCM and MCM. Make sure all module connectors are secure. 14. Install the IPU lid. 15. Remove the locking cover from the battery module switch, install the 5 mm bolt, turn the switch on, reinstall the locking cover, and install the battery module switch cover. 16. Install the remaining parts in the reverse order of removal. 17. Reconnect the negative cable to the under-hood 12 V battery. Page 4638 Fuel Pressure: Service Precautions WARNING: Adhere to the following procedures any time the fuel system is being worked on in order to reduce the risk of fire and personal injury: - Keep a dry chemical (Class B) fire extinguisher near the work area. - Place a "CAUTION FLAMMABLE" sign in the work area. - Work in a well-ventilated area. Do not smoke, and keep sparks and open flames away. - Wear eye protection. - Use caution when working near the catalytic converter to prevent the possibility of burns or fire. (The temperatures within the converter can exceed 537 °C (1000 °F). - Relieve the fuel system pressure prior to disconnecting fuel system components. - Disconnect the negative battery cable except for tests where battery voltage is required. - Use a suitable container to store or catch fuel. - Do not replace fuel pipe with fuel hose. - Plug all disconnected fuel line fittings and hoses. - After making any fuel system repairs ALWAYS inspect for fuel leaks. Page 4954 All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416 etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector or by a capital letter (A, B, C etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Connector Views that shows the connector terminals wire colors connector cavity numbers and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints shown on diagram [8] . Except for the DLC (data link connector) disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554 for example means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Page 2283 Diodes How to Identify Wiring Color-Coded Insulation Wire Color Front Page 9141 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Page 5493 Transmission Speed Sensor: Service and Repair Speed Sensors Replacement 1. Disconnect the connectors from the drive pulley speed sensor (A), the driven pulley speed sensor (B), and the CVT speed sensor (C). 2. Remove the 6 mm bolts, then remove the speed sensors. 3. Replace the O-rings (D) with new ones before installing the speed sensors. 4. Install the drive pulley speed sensor, driven pulley speed sensor, and CVT speed sensor. 5. Check the speed sensor connectors for rust, dirt, or oil, then connect the connectors securely. Page 2918 Voltage Inverter: Testing and Inspection MPI Module Fan Keeps Running, or Always Runs at High Speed MPI module fan keeps running, or always runs at high speed NOTE: Information marked with an asterisk (*) applies to PDUFANH line. 1. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 2. Remove the cargo floor mat. 3. Turn the battery module switch OFF. 4. Remove the IPU lid. 5. Disconnect MCM connector A (32P). Does the MPI module fan run? YES- Go to step 6. NO- Substitute a known-good MCM and recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away, replace the original MCM. 6. Disconnect the low speed motor power inverter module fan control relay 4P connector and high speed motor power inverter module fan control relay 4P connector. 7. Check for continuity between body ground and MCM connector terminals AS and A7*. Is there continuity? YES- Repair short in the wire between the MCM (A 6, A7*) and the low (high)* speed motor power inverter module fan control relay. NO- Go to step 8. 8. Check the low (high)* speed motor inverter module fan control relay. Is the relay OK ? YES- Repair short in the wire between the MPI module fan and high speed motor power inverter module fan control relay. NO- Replace the low (high)* speed motor inverter module fan control relay. Testing and Inspection Seat Belt Retractor: Testing and Inspection Seat Belts Inspection SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations and the precautions and procedures before performing repairs or service. Retractor 1. Before installing the retractor, check that the seat belt can be pulled out freely. 2. Make sure that the seat belt does not lock when the retractor (A) is leaned slowly up to 15 ° from the mounted position. The seat belt should lock when the retractor is leaned over 40 °. Do not attempt to disassemble the retractor. 3. Replace the seat belt with a new assembly if there is any abnormality. Do not disassemble any part of the seat belt for any reason. In-vehicle 1. Check that the seat belt is not twisted or caught on anything. 2. After installing the anchors, check for free movement on the anchor bolts. If necessary, remove the anchor bolts and check that the washers and other parts are not damaged or improperly installed. 3. Check the seat belts for damage or discoloration. Clean with a shop towel if necessary. Use only soap and water to clean. NOTE: Dirt build-up in the loops of the upper anchors can cause the seat belts to retract slowly. Wipe the inside of the loops with a clean cloth dampened in isopropyl alcohol. 4. Check that the seat belt does not lock when pulled out slowly. The seat belt is designed to lock only during a sudden stop or impact. 5. Make sure that the seat belt will retract automatically when released. 6. On the passenger's seat belt, check the seat belt retractor locking mechanism ALR (automatic locking retractor). This function is for securing child seats. -1 Pull the seat belt all the way out to engage the ALR. The seat belt should retract with a ratcheting sound, but not extend. This is normal. -2 To disengage the ALR, release the seat belt and allow it to fully retract, then pull the seat belt out part-way. The seat belt should retract and extend normally. 7. Replace the seat belt with a new assembly if there is any abnormality. Do not disassemble any part of the seat belt for any reason. Locations Fuel Supply System - Component Location Index Page 2654 Page 1811 Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box Page 9030 Connectors - "C" Page 3884 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. Page 7577 Heater Core Temperature Sensor / Switch: Testing and Inspection Heater Core Temperature Sensor Test Dip the sensor in ice water, and measure the resistance. Then pour hot water on the sensor, and check for a change in resistance. Compare the resistance reading between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals of the heater core temperature sensor with the specifications shown in the graph; the resistance should be within the specifications. Page 4312 All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416 etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector or by a capital letter (A, B, C etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Connector Views that shows the connector terminals wire colors connector cavity numbers and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints shown on diagram [8] . Except for the DLC (data link connector) disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554 for example means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Cam Chain Removal Timing Chain: Service and Repair Cam Chain Removal Removal Special Tools Required ^ Holder handle 07JAB-001020A ^ Holder attachment, HEX 50 mm offset 07MAB-PY3010A ^ Socket, 17 mm 07JAA-001010A or a commercially available 17 mm socket Engine removal is required before removing the timing chain. NOTE: ^ To avoid damage, unplug the wiring connectors carefully while holding the connector portion. ^ Mark all wiring and hoses to avoid misconnection. Also, be sure that they do not contact other wiring or hoses, or interfere with other parts. 1. Remove the engine. 2. Remove the cylinder head. 3. Remove the idler pulley bracket mounting bolt. 4. Remove the water pump. 5. Hold the pulley with holder handle (A) and holder attachment (B). 6. Remove the bolt with a heavy-duty 17 mm socket (C) and breaker bar. Locations 44. Under Left Side of Dash Page 9457 Wire Color Abbreviations Page 10052 Connectors - "C" Page 6630 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 10240 8. Cut the ends of the molding at the alignment marks (E) made in step 5. 9. Clean the upper rear window surface with alcohol where the new molding is to be installed, and degrease the inner surfaces of the new molding thoroughly. Make sure the bonding surface is kept free of water, oil, and grease. 10. With a brush, apply a light coat of primer (A) around the edge of the upper rear window (B) and around the entire groove of the new molding (C). 11. Run a bead of urethane adhesive (A) in the groove of the molding (B). 12. Attach the new molding (A) around the edge of the upper rear window (B): - Be sure the alignment mark (C) of the molding lines up with the alignment mark (printed dot) (D) on the upper rear window. - Press the molding into position around the entire edge of the window. - Make sure the molding is not wrinkled or lifted away at the corners. 13. Scrape or wipe the excess adhesive off with a putty knife or towel. To remove the adhesive from a painted surface or glass, wipe with a soft shop towel dampened with alcohol. 14. Let the adhesive dry for at least one hour. With tape, hold the molding to prevent it from lifting away. Page 1613 Idle Speed: Adjustments Idle Speed Adjustment NOTE: - Leave the idle air control (IAC) valve connected. - Before checking the idle speed, check these items: The malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) has not been reported on. - Ignition timing - Spark plugs - Air cleaner - PCV system - Pull the parking brake lever up. Start the engine, and make sure the headlights are off. 1. Disconnect the evaporative emission (EVAP) canister purge valve 2P connector. 2. Connect a tachometer (A) to the test tachometer connector (B), or connect the Honda PGM Tester (C) or an OBD II scan tool to the data link connector (DLC) (D) located under the driver's side of the dashboard. 3. Start the engine. Hold the engine at 3,000 rpm with no load (in Park or neutral) until the radiator fan comes on, then let it idle. 4. Check the idle speed with no-load conditions: headlights, blower fan, radiator fan, and air conditioner off. Page 8015 Wires Locations Tail Lamp Relay: Locations Vehicle Locations Page 9376 Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow from power at the top of the diagram to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another for example is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors Page 2530 Relay And Control Unit Locations - Floor And Rear Page 7374 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: - Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest OHMS" range. Page 6752 12. Test-drive your customer¡C■s vehicle on the same road you used earlier. - If the drift is now within spec, swap the tires back to the donor vehicle one at a time, and test-drive your customer¡C■s vehicle on the same road you used earlier. Do this until the drift comes back. Replace the bad tire(s), then return the vehicle to your customer. - If the drift is still out of spec using the donor vehicle tires, contact Tech Line for further action. Page 8804 Splices Components Ground - "G" Page 305 ECU Module Kit: P/N 06060-PHM-305, H/C 6912901 WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION Operation Number: 118121 Flat Rate Time: 0.8 hour Failed Part: P/N 1K100-PHM-010 H/C 6377170 Defect Code: 5AG Contention Code: L43 Template ID: 01-102A Skill Level: Repair Technician Disclaimer Repair Procedure 1. Write down the radio station presets. 2. Make sure the ignition switch is off, then disconnect the negative cable from the under-hood 12 V battery. 3. Remove the cargo floor mat and the cargo box (see page 20-43 of the 2000 Insight Service Manual). 4. Remove the battery module switch cover, then remove the locking cover from the switch. 5. Turn off the battery module switch. Reinstall the locking cover on the switch, and remove the 5 mm bolt on the side of the switch. 6. Wait at least 5 minutes for the capacitors in the system to discharge. Page 5748 Braking Sensor/Switch: Description and Operation Brake pedal position Switch The brake pedal position switch signals the ECM when the brake pedal is pressed. Page 10363 Wiper Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relay Test Five-terminal type: Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 5 terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 4 terminals when power is disconnected. - Fan control relay - Low beam cut relay (Canada) - Windshield wiper intermittent relay Locations Relay And Control Unit Locations - Dashboard Page 5840 Honda 1-Piece Speed Mounts P/N KWY-108006000 (for most models), P/N KWY-108007500 (Odysseys, Pilots, and Ridgelines with two-piston calipers) Attaching the Power Drive System 1. Make sure the drive motor assembly on the power drive system is level with the brake disc. 2. Attach the mounting yoke to the brake disc, and secure it with one of the wheel nuts. Torque the wheel nut to the required specification (see the appropriate service manual). Page 680 27. Remove the No.15 (40 A) fuse (EPS control unit) from the under-hood fuse/relay box. 28. With the transmission in neutral (M/T) or Park (CVT), and the clutch released (Mm, start the engine. Hold the engine speed at 3,500 rpm until the IMA battery level indicator shows at least 50 percent charge. 29. Turn off the engine, and reinstall the No.15 fuse. Disclaimer A/T - Vehicle Speed Sensor Installation Precautions Transmission Speed Sensor: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Vehicle Speed Sensor Installation Precautions Install VSS Properly to Avoid Reman A/T Damage We can't emphasize enough how important it is to follow, to the letter, the installation instructions that come with a reman A/T. These instructions help ensure that you avoid damaging the A/T and score a successful repair. This is particularly true when it comes to installing the vehicle speed sensor (VSS). Step 6 of the instructions tells you to make sure its gear is fully engaged and the VSS is fully seated before you tighten the retaining bolt. If you don't install the VSS properly, the speed sensor gear will get stripped and the A/T will be seriously damaged. So don't take risks with your customer's vehicle. Always follow these instructions to the letter. You can rest assured you're doing the job right. Page 7838 Splices Components Ground - "G" Page 553 Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution diagram set to get a more detailed picture of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Service and Repair Shift Fork: Service and Repair For further information regarding this component and the system that it is a part of, please refer to Manual Transmission/Transaxle; Service and Repair. Page 3824 P/N 17012-S01-A00 H/C 5999016 ECM/PCM: P/N 37820-P2P-A12 H/C 6104426 Defect Code: 072 Contention Code: C01 Skill Level: Repair Technician Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Connect the PGM Tester to the 16P data link connector. 2. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). Turn on the PGM Tester. 3. From the PROGRAM MENU screen, select HONDA SYSTEMS. 4. From the SYSTEM SELECT screen, select 1: PGM-FI. 5. From the TEST MODE MENU screen, select 6: INSPECTION. 6. From the INSPECTION MENU screen, select 2: EVAP TEST. 7. From the EVAP TEST MENU, select 1: SINGLE SOLENOIDS. 8. From the SINGLE SOLENOIDS MENU, activate the EVAP bypass solenoid valve. Listen for a click and feel for a light tap from the solenoid valve as you activate it. ^ If you can hear the solenoid valve click or feel it tap when activated, disregard this service bulletin, and look for other possible causes. ^ If you cannot hear the solenoid valve click or feel it tap when activated, go to step 9. 9. Replace the EVAP bypass solenoid valve (see section 11 of the appropriate service manual). 10. Test the new solenoid valve with the PGM Tester. ^ If you can hear the solenoid valve click or feel it tap when activated, go to step 15 or 16 as appropriate. ^ If you cannot hear the solenoid valve click or feel it tap when activated, go to step 11. 11. Check the wire harness and the connectors for damage. ^ If you find any damage, repair it, then go to step 12. ^ If you find no damage in the wire harness or connectors, go to step 13. 12. Test the solenoid valve again with the PGM Tester. ^ If you can hear the solenoid valve click or feel it tap when activated, go to step 15 or 16 as appropriate. ^ If you cannot hear the solenoid valve click or feel it tap when activated, go to step 13. 13. Replace the ECM/PCM (see section 11 of the appropriate service manual). 14. Use the PGM Tester to retest the solenoid valve. ^ If you can hear the solenoid valve click or feel it tap when activated, go to step 15 or 16 as appropriate. Page 654 Air Bag Control Module: Description and Operation The SRS is a safety device which, when used in conjunction with the seat belt, is designed to help protect the driver and passenger in a frontal impact exceeding a certain set limit. The system consists of the SRS unit, including a safing sensor and an impact sensor (A), the cable reel (B), the driver's airbag (C) and the passenger's airbag (D). The seat belt tensioner (E) is linked with the SRS airbags to further increase the effectiveness of the seat belt. In a front-end collision, the tensioner instantly retracts the belt firmly to secure the occupants in their seats. Operation The main circuit in the SRS unit senses and judges the force of impact and, if necessary, ignites the inflator charges. If battery voltage is too low or power is disconnected due to impact, the voltage regulator and the back-up power circuit respectively will keep voltage at a constant level For the SRS to operate: 1. The impact sensor must activate and send electronic signals to the microprocessor. 2. The microprocessor must compute the signals and send them to the airbag inflators (and seat belt tensioners). 3. The inflators must ignite and deploy the airbags land activate the tensioners). Page 3361 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Page 7243 14. Using the backprobe set, measure the voltage between the No. 27 terminal of ECM connector A (32P) and body ground with the ECM connectors connected. Is there battery voltage ? YES - Check for loose wires or poor connections at ECM connector A (32P). If the connections are good, substitute a known-good ECM, and recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away, replace the original ECM. NO - Repair open in the wire between the ECM and the A/C pressure switch. 15. Disconnect the jumper wire. 16. Disconnect the compressor clutch IP connector. 17. Check for continuity between the No. 2 terminal of the compressor clutch relay 4P socket and the No. 1 terminal of the compressor clutch IP connector. Is there continuity? YES - Check the compressor clutch clearance, the thermal protector, and the compressor clutch field coil. NO - Repair open in the wire between the compressor clutch relay and the compressor clutch. Page 2583 Exhaust Pipe: Service and Repair Exhaust Pipe and Muffler Replacement Page 3684 Wire Color Coding Distinct Of Circuit By Wire Base Color All wires have color-coded insulation. Wires belonging to a system's main harness will have a single color. Wires belonging to a system's sub-circuits will have a colored stripe. Striped wires use the codes found in the chart to show wire size and colors. Abbreviations are used to indicate wire color within a circuit diagram. Wire Color Abbreviations The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics: WHT................................... White YEL................................... Yellow BLK................................... Black BLU................................... Blue GRN................................... Green RED................................... Red ORN................................... Orange PNK................................... Pink BRN................................... Brown GRY................................... Gray PUR................................... Purple LT BLU................................... Light Blue LT GRN................................... Light Green The wire insulation has one color or one color with another color stripe. The second color is the stripe. How to Identify Connector Terminals How to Identify Connector Terminals Page 156 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 9804 Number. See: Diagrams/Connector Views/Connector Views By View Number Page 2267 11. Clean the bolt (A), washer (B), pulley (C) and, crankshaft (D). 12. Install the crankshaft pulley, and tighten the bolt to 20 Nm (2.0 kgf-m, 14 ft. lbs.). 13. Tighten the pulley bolt an additional 90°. 14. Clean the cylinder head and block surfaces. 15. Apply liquid gasket, part No. 08718-0009, to the shaded areas of the cylinder head gasket mating surface of the block and oil pump. 16. Install the dowel pins and new cylinder head gasket. 17. Apply liquid gasket, part No. 08718-0009, to the cylinder head mating surface of the block and oil pump along the broken line. 18. Install the cylinder head on the block. 19. Apply engine oil to the threads and under the heads of all the cylinder head bolts. 20. Tighten the cylinder head bolts in sequence to 39 Nm (4.0 kgf-cm, 29 ft. lbs.). Use a beam-type torque wrench. When using a preset-type torque wrench, be sure to tighten slowly and do not overtighten. If a bolt makes any noise while you are torquing it, loosen the bolt and retighten it. 21. Turn the cylinder head bolts 90°. 22. Tighten the 6 mm bolts to 12 Nm (1.2 kgf-cm, 8.7 ft. lbs.). 23. Make sure the crankshaft pulley is at TDC. 24. Place the camshaft sprocket into the cylinder head. Page 9943 All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416 etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector or by a capital letter (A, B, C etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Connector Views that shows the connector terminals wire colors connector cavity numbers and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints shown on diagram [8] . Except for the DLC (data link connector) disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554 for example means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Service and Repair Clutch Release Bearing: Service and Repair Release Bearing Replacement Special Tools Required ^ Clutch alignment shaft 07JAF-PM7012A ^ Remover handle 07936-3710100 ^ Ring gear holder 07LAB-PV00100 or 07924-PD20003 ^ Driver 07749-0010000 ^ Attachment, 32 x 35 mm 07746-0010100 1. Remove the release fork boot (A) from the clutch housing (B). 2. Remove the release fork (C) from the clutch housing by squeezing the release fork set spring (D) with pliers. Remove the release bearing (E). 3. Check the release bearing for play by spinning it by hand. If there is excessive play, replace the release bearing with a new one. NOTE: The release bearing is packed with grease. Do not wash it in solvent. 4. Apply super high tamp urea grease (P/N 08798-9002) to the release fork (A), the release fork bolt (B), the release bearing (C), and the release bearing guide (D) in the shaded areas. 5. With the release fork slid between the release bearing pawls, install the release bearing on the mainshaft while inserting the release fork through the hole in the clutch housing. 6. Align the detent of the release fork with the release fork bolt, then press the release fork over the release fork bolt squarely. 7. Install the release fork boot (E), make sure the boot seals around the release fork and clutch housing. Page 10322 Slide the new blade into the holder, and push from behind with your thumb until you feel the tabs snap into place. Make sure the blade is locked in place before you reinstall the blade assembly. If it's not, the blade could come off during use and the blade assembly could scratch the windshield. Page 2040 Page 4750 Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution diagram set to get a more detailed picture of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Page 9957 EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Locations Page 631 10. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and measure voltage between ECM connector terminals B1 and B20, and between B9 and B20. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 11. NO - Check for an open in the wires between the PGM-FI main relay and the ECM (B1, B9). If the wires are OK, replace the PGM-FI main relay. 11. Turn the ignition switch OFF, then ON (II) again, and measure voltage between ECM connector terminals A15 and B2 within the first two seconds after the ignition switch is turned ON (II). Is there 1.0 V or less? YES - The PGM-FI main relay may be faulty. NO - Update the ECM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM, replace the original ECM. Page 3304 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. Page 4910 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. Specifications Brake Pad: Specifications Brake pads Thickness Front Standard or New .................................................................................................................................................. 9.0 10.0 mm (0.35 - 0.39 inch) Service Limit ............................................................................................. .............................................................................. 2.0 mm (0.08 inch) Page 1578 ^ Loosen the front subframe bolts. See the applicable service manual for more information. NOTE: The front wheels are being viewed from the rear of the vehicle. ^ Depending which way you need to shift the subframe, insert a pry bar between the subframe and body at both the front and rear positions of the subframe. NOTE: Be careful not to damage the vehicle. You could bend and damage the frame and/or body if you apply too much pressure. ^ Press on both pry bars to shift the subframe. It will move only a few millimeters. This should adjust the camber about 0.2-0.5°. ^ While holding the subframe in place, have an assistant torque the subframe bolts to their proper torque. Front Camber Adjustment, Strut Suspension ^ Raise the vehicle, and remove the front tires. ^ Loosen the damper pinch bolts and the flange nuts. ^ Adjust the camber by moving the bottom of the damper within the range of the damper pinch bolt free play. NOTE: Some vehicles have special pinch bolts that allow more adjustment. For more information, refer to the parts catalog. ^ Tighten the damper pinch bolts to the specified torque. ^ Reinstall the front wheels and lower the vehicle. Bounce the front of the vehicle several times to stabilize the suspension. Page 9404 Brake Light Switch: Diagrams 185. Idle Stop Switch (CVT) Page 7913 (Not interchangeable with CR-V and S2000 remote transmitter) Transmitter Identification The transmitter for the 1995-99 Accord and the 2000-02 Accord look identical, but they are not interchangeable. The 1995-99 transmitter works the doors of a 2000-02 Accord, but it does not open the trunk. If you are not sure which transmitter you have, press and hold the trunk release button while looking at the LED. The LED on the 1995-99 transmitter comes on in about 1.1 seconds. The LED on the 2000-02 transmitter comes on in about 0.5 second. Programming the Transmitter NOTES: ^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased. ^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the programming mode. ^ You must complete steps 1-6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from exiting the programming mode. 1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter can be used for this step.) 3. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 4. Repeat steps 1 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2. 5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode. 7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted the transmitter's code. 8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda using normal parts ordering procedures. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery. 03-04 Accord LX and EX 2003-04 Accord LX and EX with factory-installed keyless entry system Page 2248 Oil Pressure Sender: Service and Repair Oil Pressure Switch Replacement 1. Remove the throttle body. 2. Disconnect the oil pressure switch connector, then remove the oil pressure switch. 3. Apply liquid gasket to the oil pressure switch, then install the oil pressure switch. 4. Install the throttle body. Page 7430 Heater Core Case: Service and Repair Heater Unit/Core Replacement SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations, precautions, and procedures before performing repair or service. 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. 2. From under the hood, open the cable clamp (A), then disconnect the heater valve cable (B) from the heater valve arm (C). Turn the heater valve arm to the fully opened position as shown. 3. When the engine is cool, drain the engine coolant from the radiator. 4. Remove the mounting bolt from the heater valve. Slide the hose clamps (A) back, then disconnect the inlet heater hose (B) and the outlet heater hose (C) from the heater unit. Engine coolant will run out when the hoses are disconnected; drain it into a clean drip pan. Be sure not to let coolant spill on the electrical parts or the painted surfaces. If any coolant spills, rinse it off immediately. Page 3503 Vehicle Speed Sensor: Service and Repair VSS Replacement 1. Disconnect the 3P connector (A) from the VSS (vehicle speed sensor) (B). 2. Remove the mounting bolt, then remove the VSS. 3. Install in the reverse order of removal. Page 3537 126. Below Right Side of Engine Locations Idle Control System - Component Location Index Page 4150 DTC U0100 thru U1288 Disclaimer Page 7126 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. Page 2630 27. Remove the No.15 (40 A) fuse (EPS control unit) from the under-hood fuse/relay box. 28. With the transmission in neutral (M/T) or Park (CVT), and the clutch released (Mm, start the engine. Hold the engine speed at 3,500 rpm until the IMA battery level indicator shows at least 50 percent charge. 29. Turn off the engine, and reinstall the No.15 fuse. Disclaimer Page 7735 4. Clean and dry the seat belt guide, then put a piece of teflon tape on the inside. Use the teflon tape specified in this service bulletin; other brands or types of tape may eventually peel off and restrict seat belt movement. 5. Install the seat belt guide and the door panel. 6. Test the belt for proper retraction by pulling the latch plate down to the floor of the vehicle and then releasing it. The belt should retract fully in four seconds or less. Disclaimer Diagrams 127. DC-DC Converter Page 1346 18. Middle Rear of Engine 130. Transmission Housing (CVT) Page 2058 10. Measure cam lobe height. Cam Lobe Height Standard (New) Page 9162 Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution diagram set to get a more detailed picture of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Page 3965 Idle Air Control Valve: Description and Operation IAC (Idle Air Control) Valve To maintain the proper idle speed, the IAC valve changes the amount of air bypassing the throttle body in response to an electrical signal from the ECM. Page 8207 Wires Page 7966 Page 2208 Engine Oil: Service and Repair Replacement NOTE: Under normal conditions, the oil filter should be replaced at every other oil change. Under severe conditions, the oil filter should be replaced at each oil change. Change interval Every 7,500 miles (12,000 km or 12 months (Normal conditions) Every 3,500 miles (6,000 km) or 6 months (Severe conditions) 1. Warm up the engine. 2. Remove the right rear splash shield. 3. Remove the drain bolt (A), and drain the engine oil. 4. Reinstall the drain bolt with a new washer (B). 5. Refill with the recommended oil. Capacity 2.3 L (2.4 US qt.) at oil change. 2.5 L (2.6 US qt.) at oil change including filter. 3.0 L (3.2 US qt.) after engine overhaul. 6. Run the engine for more than three minutes, then check for oil leakage. Page 9775 Terminals - "T" Shielding Switches Fuses Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right Alignment: Customer Interest Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right 06-068 May 2, 2009 Applies To: ALL *Vehicle Pulls or Drifts, and/or Steering Wheel Is Off-Center (Supersedes 06-068, Vehicle Pulling or Drifting, dated October 4, 2007, to revise the information marked by asterisks) (Replaces 90-011, Steering Wheel Off-Center Adjustment at PDI)* *REVISION SUMMARY The title description was revised.* SYMPTOM While driving on a straight road, the vehicle pulls or drifts to the right or left. BACKGROUND New tools were developed to help you diagnose and correct a pulling and/or steering wheel off-center issue. There is a diagnosis worksheet included to take on your test-drive and record your findings. These values are used to build the 15-digit DTC (diagnostic trouble code) that is required for your warranty claim. The last step in each repair procedure helps you create the correct code. In the rare case that you have to repair a vehicle that pulls and has the steering wheel off-center, use REPAIR PROCEDURE B to file your warranty claim. For more information, refer to Training Module SSC 44 - Steering Drift or Pull Interactive Service Bulletin. PROBABLE CAUSES Several conditions can cause the vehicle to pull or drift: ^ Wheel alignment ^ Tires ^ Off-center steering wheel (no pulling or drifting, but a customer may believe this is the case) CORRECTIVE ACTION Diagnose the problem using the special tools and the worksheet on page 4 that guides you to one of four repair procedures. TOOL INFORMATION Centering Tape (enough to diagnose 240 vehicles): T/N O7AAJ-001A300 Steering Drift Set Level: T/N 07AAJ-00100 Steering Drift Set: T/N O7MJ-001A140 Replacement Weight for Steering Drift Set: T/N 07AAJ-001A400 WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Failed Part: P/N 53560-SDA-AO1 H/C 7139652 Locations Fuel Supply System - Component Location Index Page 7386 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. Page 8783 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 7204 Blower Motor: Description and Operation Manual HVAC Blower Controls The blower motor is controlled by the heater control panel which receives battery voltage at all times through fuse 18. With the ignition switch in ACC (I) or ON (II), battery voltage is supplied to the heater control panel through fuse 16. The heater control panel is grounded at G404. Battery voltage is applied through fuse 12 to the blower motor relay contacts at all times. With the ignition switch in ACC (I) or ON (II) and the engine not cranking, the blower motor relay in the under-hood fuse/relay box is energized which feeds battery voltage to the blower motor. The blower power transistor controls the blower motor in all speeds except HIGH. The blower power transistor is controlled by the heater control panel. When the heater control panel requests HIGH blower speed, it grounds the blower motor through the contacts of the blower motor high relay, making the blower run at high speed. Refer to the HVAC system for specific tests or troubleshooting procedures. Page 4523 Wire Color Abbreviations Page 1254 Page 2900 11. Use the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) with version 1.011.014 or later software to clear any set DTCs. 12. Reinstall the IPU lid and the mid-frame cover bolts. Torque the bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb-ft). 13. Reinstall the right trunk shelf support. Torque the bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb-ft). 14. Remove the battery module switch locking cover, and flip the switch to ON. Reinstall the locking cover. 15. Reinstall the battery module switch cover. 16. Reinstall the cargo floor mat. 17. Return the vehicle to your customer. Advise your customer that it is OK to drive the vehicle as is until the replacement parts arrive, but the vehicle will have reduced power (no IMA assist). 18. Order a battery module and, if needed, a BCM, an MCM, or both. REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Remove the battery module from the vehicle (see page 12-113 of the service manual). (In ISIS, use the keyword BAT MOD, and select Battery Module Removal/Installation from the list.) 2. Remove the lifting tool from the battery module. 3. Remove the mounting bolts for the MCM and the BCM (eight total). Unplug the electrical connectors (five for the MCM and three for the BCM), then remove the modules. 4. Install the MCM and the BCM in the new battery module. Use the original MCM and BCM if no replacement was needed; otherwise, use the appropriate replacement parts. Torque the mounting bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb-ft). 5. Install the lifting tool on the battery module. 6. With someone to help you, carefully lift the battery module into the vehicle, and set it down into position. Remove the lifting tool. 7. Plug in the connectors, and install the Y condenser harness. Then install the mounting bolts. Torque the bolts to 24 N.m (17 lb-ft). 8. Install the battery module air duct. Torque the bolt to 9.8 N~m (7.2 lb-ft). 9. Connect the high voltage cables to the junction board. Torque the bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb-ft). 10. Install the front and rear IPU braces and the mid-frame. Torque the bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb-ft). 11. Install the foam inserts. Page 6701 175. Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box Page 2135 3. Tighten the pulley bolt an additional 90°. Diagram Information and Instructions Console Lamp: Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System Terminal Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown below is #6. Locations 7. Front of Engine Page 9443 Cargo Lamp: Electrical Diagrams Diagram 114-0 Diagrams: Other diagrams referred to by number (See Diagram ##-#, etc.) within these diagrams can be found at Diagrams by Number. See: Diagrams/Electrical Diagrams/Diagrams By Number Locations: Location photographs (references to PHOTOS) referred to within these diagrams can be found at Locations by Photo Number. See: Locations/Component Locations/Locations By Photo Number Connector Views: Connector terminal views (references to VIEWS) referred to within these diagrams can be found at Connector Views by View Page 8308 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 5908 Hydraulic Control Assembly - Antilock Brakes: Description and Operation ABS Modulator The ABS modulator consists of the inlet solenoid valve, outlet solenoid valve, reservoir, pump, pump motor, and the damping chamber. The modulator reduces the caliper fluid pressure directly. It is a circulating-type modulator because the brake fluid circulates through the caliper, reservoir, and the master cylinder. The hydraulic control has three modes: pressure intensifying, pressure retaining, and pressure reducing. The hydraulic circuit is an independent four-channel type, one channel for each wheel. Pressure intensifying mode ................................................................................................................. ................................................................ Inlet valve open, outlet valve closed; ........................................................................................................................................................... Master cylinder fluid is pumped out to the caliper. Pressure retaining mode ..................................................................................................................... .......................................................... Inlet valve closed, outlet valve closed. .............................................................................................................................................. Caliper fluid is retained by the inlet valve and outlet valve. Pressure reducing mode ..................................................................................................................... ............................................................ Inlet valve closed, outlet valve open. ............................................................................................................................................ Caliper fluid flows through the outlet valve to the reservoir. Motor operation mode ................................................................................................................................. When starting the pressure reducing mode, the pump motor is ON. .................................................................................................................................................. When stopping ABS operation, the pump motor is OFF. ............................................................................. The caliper fluid is pumped out by the pump, through the damping chamber, to the master cylinder. Page 5563 Flywheel: Specifications Standards and Service Limits Flywheel Runout on clutch mating surface Standard or New .................................................................................................................................. ...................................... 0.05 mm (0.002 inch) Limit ........................................................................... ............................................................................................................... 0.15 mm (0.006 inch) Page 9476 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 8295 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Locations Shift Interlock Solenoid: Locations 132. Valve Body (Remove) (CVT) 133. Middle of Floor (CVT) Page 36 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. Page 6935 Lights-on,key-in,and Seat Belt Reminders Image 73-1 Page 1081 3. Using the tool, loosen the fuel pump locknut (A), and remove the fuel pump. 4. Measure the resistance between the No.1 and No.2 terminals with the float at E (EMPTY), 1/2 (HALF FULL), and F (FULL) positions. If you do not get the given readings, replace the fuel gauge sending unit (A). 5. Install the pants in the reverse order of removal with a new base gasket and new quick connect retainers, then check these items: - When connecting the wire harness, make sure the connection is secure and the connector (B) is firmly locked into place. Page 7372 Control Module HVAC: Diagnostic Aids Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Page 1041 Wires Page 7663 27. Cable Reel Page 2323 Connectors - "C" Page 5878 6. Install the pad retainers (A). 7. Apply Dow Corning Molykote M77 grease to both sides of the pad shim (A), the back of the pads (B) and other areas indicated by the arrows. Wipe excess grease off the shim. Contaminated brake discs or pads reduce stopping ability. Keep grease off the discs and pads. 8. Install the brake pads and pad shim correctly. Install the pad with the wear indicator (C) on the inside. If you are reusing the pads, always reinstall the brake pads in their original positions to prevent a momentary loss of braking efficiency. 9. Push in the piston (A) so the caliper will fit over the pads. Make sure the piston boot is in position to prevent damaging it when pivoting the caliper down. 10. Pivot the caliper down into position. Being careful not to damage the pin boot, install the bolt (B), and tighten it to the specified torque. 11. Install the brake hose bracket onto the damper. 12. Press the brake pedal several times to make sure the brakes work, then test-drive. NOTE: Engagement of the brake may require a greater pedal stroke immediately after the brake pads have been replaced as a set. Several applications of the brake pedal will restore the normal pedal stroke. 13. After installation, check for leaks at hose and line joints or connections, and retighten if necessary. Page 830 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. Page 4964 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Locations 62. Middle of Dash Page 7738 Seat Belt: Testing and Inspection SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations, precautions, and procedures before preforming repairs or service WARNING: To avoid accidental deployment and possible injury, always disconnect the seat belt tensioner connector before removing the retractor 1. Check that the seat belt is not twisted or caught on anything. 2. After installing the anchors, check for free movement on the anchor bolts. If necessary, remove the anchor bolts, and check that the washers and other parts are not damaged or improperly installed. 3. Check the seat belts for damage or discoloration. Clean with a shop towel if necessary. CAUTION: Use only soap and water to clean. NOTE: Dirt build-up in the metal loops of the upper anchors can cause the seat belts to retract slowly. Wipe the inside of the loops with a clean cloth dampened in isopropyl alcohol. 4. Check that the seat belt does not lock when pulled out slowly. The seat belt is designed to lock only during a sudden stop or impact. 5. Make sure that the seat belt will retract automatically when released. 6. For each passenger's seat belt, make sure that the locking mechanism in the seat belt retractor will engage when the seat belt is pulled all the way out. 7. Replace the seat belt with a new assembly if there is any abnormality. Do not disassemble any part of the seat belt for any reason. Page 8360 Connectors - "C" Page 4058 Malfunction Indicator Lamp: Description and Operation Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) Indication (In relation to Readiness Codes) The vehicle has certain "readiness codes" that are part of the on-board diagnostics for the emissions systems. If the vehicle's battery has been disconnected or gone dead, these codes are reset. In some states, part of the emissions testing is to make sure these codes are set to complete. If all of them are not set to complete, the vehicle may fail the test. To check if the readiness codes are set, turn the ignition switch ON (II), but do not start the engine. The MIL will come of for 15 - 20 seconds. If it then goes off, the readiness codes are set. If it blinks several times, one or more readiness codes are not set to complete. To set each code, drive the vehicle or run the engine as described in the procedures to set them in this section. Page 4884 87. IAC Valve Page 8915 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 6556 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 8910 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 2327 Wire Color Coding Distinct Of Circuit By Wire Base Color All wires have color-coded insulation. Wires belonging to a system's main harness will have a single color. Wires belonging to a system's sub-circuits will have a colored stripe. Striped wires use the codes found in the chart to show wire size and colors. Abbreviations are used to indicate wire color within a circuit diagram. Wire Color Abbreviations The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics: WHT................................... White YEL................................... Yellow BLK................................... Black BLU................................... Blue GRN................................... Green RED................................... Red ORN................................... Orange PNK................................... Pink BRN................................... Brown GRY................................... Gray PUR................................... Purple LT BLU................................... Light Blue LT GRN................................... Light Green The wire insulation has one color or one color with another color stripe. The second color is the stripe. How to Identify Connector Terminals How to Identify Connector Terminals Page 8052 89. Behind Passenger's Seat Page 9607 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: Page 9532 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. Page 4885 Idle Air Control Valve: Vacuum and Vapor Hose Diagrams Vacuum Hose Routing - M/T Model Page 265 EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 7108 54. Under Middle of Dash 66. Behind Glove Box Page 8748 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. Page 4881 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 6195 6. Make sure the transmission is in neutral, then disconnect the BLK/WHT wire (A) from the starter solenoid (B). Connect a jumper wire from the battery positive terminal to the solenoid terminal. Did the starter crank the engine? YES-Go to step 7. NO-Remove the starter and diagnose its internal problems. 7. Check the following items in the order listed until you find the open circuit. - Check for an open circuit or loose connections in the BLK/WHT wire and connectors between the starter cut relay and the ignition switch, and between the starter cut relay and the starter. - Check the ignition switch. 8. Check engine speed during cranking. Is engine speed above 100 rpm? YES-Go to step 9. NO-Remove and disassemble the starter, and check for the following until you find the cause. - Excessively worn starter brushes - Open circuit in commutator brushes - Dirty or damaged helical spline or drive gear 9. Check the cranking voltage and current draw. Is cranking voltage no less than 8.5 volts, and current draw no more than 350 amps? YES-Go to step 10. NO-Remove and disassemble the starter, and check for the following until you find the cause. - Open circuit in starter armature commutator segments - Starter armature dragging - Shorted armature winding - Excessive drag in engine 10. Remove the starter and inspect its drive gear and the flywheel ring gear for damage. Replace any damaged parts. Page 7007 - Check the damper housing position and for damage. Windshield Wiper Motor Replacement Wiper Motor: Service and Repair Windshield Wiper Motor Replacement Windshield Wiper Motor Replacement 1. Open the hood. Remove the nuts and the windshield wiper arms. 2. Remove the hood seal and cowl cover. 3. Remove the bolts and wiper linkage assembly (A). 4. Scribe a line (A) across the link (B) and body to show the original adjustment. Page 7432 9. Disconnect the connectors (A) from the mode control motor and the air mix control motor, then remove the wire harness clips (B). Remove the mounting bolt and the heater unit (C). 10. Remove the clips (A), the sensor clamp (B), and the heater core temperature sensor (C). Remove the grommet (D), then remove the self-tapping screw and the pipe bracket (E). Remove the self-tapping screws and the core cover (F). While being careful not to bend the inlet and outlet pipes. Pull out the heater core (G). 11. Install the heater core in the reverse order of removal. Install the heater core temperature sensor directly against the inlet pipe, and install the sensor clamp securely. 12. Install the heater unit in the reverse order of removal, and note these items. - Install the grommets of the heater core and the heater valve cable securely. - Do not interchange the inlet and outlet heater hoses, and install the hose clamps securely. - Refill the cooling system with engine coolant. - Adjust the heater valve cable. - Make sure that there is no coolant leakage. - Make sure that there is no air leakage. - For evaporator and A/C-related information, refer to evaporator removal and installation. - Do the ECM idle learn procedure. Page 3553 9. Knock Sensor Locations Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Locations Relay And Control Unit Locations - Dashboard Page 8292 In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locater) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: - Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. Page 8506 Power Door Lock Switch: Diagrams 81. Door Lock Knob Switch/Lock Actuator, Driver's 82. Door Lock Switch, Driver's Page 3117 DTC P0A94 thru P0157 Page 2473 Radiator Cooling Fan Temperature Sensor / Switch: Testing and Inspection Radiator Fan Switch Test NOTE: Bleed air from the cooling system after installing the radiator fan switch. 1. Remove the radiator fan switch from the thermostat cover. 2. Suspend the radiator fan switch (A) in a container of water as shown. 3. Heat the water, and check the temperature with a thermometer. Do not let the thermometer (B) touch the bottom of hot container. 4. Measure the continuity between the terminal 1 and terminal 2 according to the table. Page 7547 Air Conditioning Switch: Testing and Inspection A/C Pressure Switch Circuit Troubleshooting 1. Disconnect the A/C pressure switch 4P connector. 2. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 3. Measure the voltage between the No. 1 terminal of the A/C pressure switch 4P connector and body ground. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 4. NO - Repair open in the wire between the A/C diode, the ECM and the A/C pressure switch. 4. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 5. Check for continuity between the No. 1 and No. 4 terminals of the A/C pressure switch. Is there continuity? YES - Go to step 6. NO - Go to step 10. 6. Reconnect the A/C pressure switch 4P connector. 7. Disconnect climate control unit connector B (22P). 8. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 9. Measure the voltage between the No. 17 terminal of climate control unit connector B (22P) and body ground. Page 2989 4. Remove the switch cover from the battery module, then remove the locking cover from the battery module switch. 5. Turn off the battery module switch. Reinstall the locking cover on the switch, and remove the 5 mm bolt on the side of the switch. 6. Wait at least 5 minutes to allow the capacitors to discharge. 7. Remove the three clips from the middle bulkhead carpet. 8. Remove the under-cover (two bolts, two clips, and three screw clips). Page 9173 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: Page 6706 Fuse-to-Components Index Image 6-3 Locations Page 2128 10. Measure runout on all main journals to make sure the crank is not bent. Rotate the crankshaft two complete revolutions. The difference between measurements on each journal must not be more than the service limit. Crankshaft Total Indicator Runout: Standard (New): 0.03 mm (0.001 inch) max. Service Limit: 0.04 mm (0.002 inch) Page 3103 11. Lift out the battery module foam insert. 12. Remove the mounting bolts for the battery condition monitor (BCM) module and the motor control module (MCM). Disconnect the electrical connectors, then remove the modules. 13. Install the new BCM and MCM. Make sure all module connectors are secure. 14. Install the IPU lid. 15. Remove the locking cover from the battery module switch, install the 5 mm bolt, turn the switch on, reinstall the locking cover, and install the battery module switch cover. 16. Install the remaining parts in the reverse order of removal. 17. Reconnect the negative cable to the under-hood 12 V battery. Page 187 - Taillight relay Page 4322 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 4314 Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Diagnostic Aids Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Page 4860 Cavity Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity / terminal shown is # 6. Circuit Schematics Page 7878 179. Disarm Switch (Honda Accessory) Campaign - Integrated Motor Assist Controller Update Technical Service Bulletin # 01-102 Date: 011127 Campaign - Integrated Motor Assist Controller Update 01-102 November 27, 2001 Applies To: 2000-01 Insight with M/T - See VEHICLES AFFECTED Product Update: IMA Controller Modification BACKGROUND The IMA (Integrated Motor Assist) system supplies power to various 12-volt loads on the vehicle (lights, radio, windows, etc.) and assists the engine to improve vehicle performance. In very cold weather, power demands on the IMA battery module can exceed output, causing permanent damage to the battery module. VEHICLES AFFECTED Not all 2000-01 Insights with M/T are affected by this product update. Only vehicles that are registered and normally driven in cold weather areas are affected. Before you begin, verify that the vehicle is registered in one of the states affected by the update (see the map). Then check for vehicle eligibility by doing one of the following. ^ Verify that the customer has a notification letter. ^ Check the vehicle's VIN on your campaign responsibility report. ^ Do a VIN status inquiry on DCS. CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION All owners of affected vehicles will be sent a notification of this product update. An example of the customer notification. CORRECTIVE ACTION Replace the battery condition monitor (BCM) module and the motor control module (MCM). PARTS INFORMATION Page 9474 First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 3686 Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow from power at the top of the diagram to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another for example is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors Page 5440 7. Loosen the locknut (A) on the shift cable (B). 8. Remove the spring clip (C) and washers (D), and separate the shift cable from the control lever (E) and the shift cable bracket (F). 9. Remove the grommet, and pull the shift cable out. 10. Insert the new shift cable through the grommet hole, then install the grommet. 11. Verify that the transmission is in the [A] position on the control lever. 12. Install the shift cable end (A) on the control lever (B). Install the shift cable on its bracket (C), and tighten the locknut (D). Do not bend the shift cable excessively. 13. Install the plastic washer (E), then the steel washer (F), and install the spring clip (G) in the direction shown. 14. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and verify that the [R] position indicator comes on. Page 7498 Compressor Clutch Relay: Description and Operation Air Conditioning (A/C) Compressor Clutch Relay When the ECM receives a demand for cooling from the A/C system, it delays the compressor from being energized, and enriches the mixture to assure smooth transition to the A/C mode. Page 4005 9. Knock Sensor Page 8222 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. Component Locations Fuse Block: Component Locations 28. Left Front Side of Engine Compartment 33. Underside of Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box Alignment Alignment: Specifications Alignment Wheel alignment Camber Front .................................................................................................................................................... ........................................................ 0°00' ± 1° Rear ........................................................................... ................................................................................................................................ -1°00' ± 1° Caster Front .................................................................................................................................................... ........................................................ 2°00' ± 1° Total toe Front .................................................................................................................................................... ............................. 0 ± 2 mm (0 ± 0.08 inch) Rear ............................................................................... ................................................................................................. 3 mm ± 3 mm (0.12 ± 0.12) Front wheel turning angle Inside wheel ......................................................................................................................................... ...................................................... 40°00' ± 2° Outside wheel ............................................................ ................................................................................................................... 33°00' (Reference) Page 218 40. Upper Left Kick Panel Area Page 3842 DTC P2240 thru U0073 Page 7712 3. Remove the glove box, then disconnect the passenger's airbag 2P connector (A) from the floor wire harness. Seat Belt Tensioner: 4. Remove the B-pillar lower trim panel, then disconnect the seat belt tensioner2P connector (A) from the floor wire harness. Page 9590 Terminals - "T" Shielding Switches Fuses Page 7916 The 1999-00 transmitter is not interchangeable with the 2001-04 transmitter. To tell them apart, look at the FCC ID on the back. 1999-00 - FCC ID: E4EG8DN 2001-04 - FCC ID: OUCG8D-440H-A* Programming the Transmitter NOTES: ^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased. ^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the programming mode. You must complete steps 1-6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from exiting the programming mode. 1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter can be used for this step.) 3. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 4. Repeat steps 1, 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2. 5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode. 7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted the transmitter's code. 8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda using normal parts ordering procedures. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery. 99-01 Prelude With Factory-Installed Keyless Entry System 1999-01 Prelude with factory-installed keyless entry system Page 8668 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. Page 2873 114. MPI Module Fan Control Relay, High Speed; High Voltage Contactor Relay; Ignition Hold Relay; And MPI Module Fan Control Relay, Low Speed Page 6610 Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box Page 3843 DTC U0100 thru U1288 Disclaimer Page 9592 Wire Color Coding Distinct Of Circuit By Wire Base Color All wires have color-coded insulation. Wires belonging to a system's main harness will have a single color. Wires belonging to a system's sub-circuits will have a colored stripe. Striped wires use the codes found in the chart to show wire size and colors. Abbreviations are used to indicate wire color within a circuit diagram. Wire Color Abbreviations The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics: WHT................................... White YEL................................... Yellow BLK................................... Black BLU................................... Blue GRN................................... Green RED................................... Red ORN................................... Orange PNK................................... Pink BRN................................... Brown GRY................................... Gray PUR................................... Purple LT BLU................................... Light Blue LT GRN................................... Light Green The wire insulation has one color or one color with another color stripe. The second color is the stripe. How to Identify Connector Terminals How to Identify Connector Terminals Page 3680 Connectors - "C" Page 1314 Oxygen Sensor: Connector Locations 16. Rear of Engine 127. Below Rear of Engine Page 6705 Fuse-to-Components Index Image 6-2 Page 697 7. Remove the under-cover (two bolts, two clips, and three screw clips). 8. Remove the IPU (intelligent power unit) lid (six Torx bolts and 17 hex bolts). 9. Measure voltage at the junction board terminals. ^ If the reading is 30 V or less, the capacitors are discharged enough for you to continue; go to step 10. ^ If the reading is more than 30 V, there is a problem with the IMA system. Troubleshoot the system using the IMA section of the service manual, then continue with this procedure. 10. Lift out the battery module foam insert. Page 10244 Glass Primer And Adhesive Application Page 9514 Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow from power at the top of the diagram to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another for example is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors Diagnostic Aids Engine Control Module: Diagnostic Aids Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Page 8036 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Rear Window Wiper Motor - Radio Static Radio/Stereo: Customer Interest Rear Window Wiper Motor - Radio Static 00-043 April 5, 2000 Applies To: 2000 Insight - From VIN JHMZE1...YT000001 thru JHMZE1...YT000569 Product Update: Insight Rear Window Wiper Motor BACKGROUND Because the rear window wiper motor is not adequately grounded, static is developed on AM radio stations when the wiper is operating. CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION All owners of affected vehicles will be mailed a notification of this product update. The text of the customer notification is at the end of this service bulletin. CORRECTIVE ACTION Add a grounding sub-harness to the rear window wiper motor. PARTS INFORMATION Sub-harness Kit: P/N 06320-S3Y-000, H/C 6441109 WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION Operation Number: 741104 Flat Rate Time: 0.5 hour Failed Part: P/N 76710-S3Y-A01 H/C 6350052 Defect Code: 546 Contention Code: K86 Template ID: 00-043A Skill Level: Repair Technician REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Open the rear hatch. Remove the two trim panel clips next to the striker. 2. Use a flat-tip screwdriver wrapped with tape or a cloth to remove the rear hatch trim panel. 3. Unclip the connector retaining clip from the wiper motor mounting bracket. Page 7555 Ambient Temperature Sensor / Switch HVAC: Service and Repair Outside Air Temperature Sensor Replacement 1. Remove the outside air temperature sensor (A), then disconnect the 2P connector (B). 2. Install the sensor in the reverse order of removal. Page 8226 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 9778 Cavity Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity / terminal shown is # 6. Circuit Schematics Page 8654 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: - Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest OHMS" range. Page 3501 8. Connect the GRN test harness clip (D) to the positive probe of a voltmeter. Is there 5 V or more? YES - Go to step 9. NO - Repair short in the BLU/WHT wire between the VSS and the ECM. 9. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 10. Connect the other test harness connector (A) to the VSS (B). 11. Raise the front of the vehicle, and make sure it is securely supported. 12. Put the vehicle in neutral with the ignition switch ON (II). 13. Slowly rotate one wheel with the other wheel blocked. Does voltage pulse from 0 to approx. 5 V or more? YES - Go to step 14. NO - Replace the VSS. 14. Disconnect the 30P connector "A" from the gauge assembly. 15. Connect a voltmeter between the BLU/WHT wire and body ground. 16. Slowly rotate one wheel with the other wheel blocked. Locations High/Low Speed Battery Module Fan Control Relay: Locations 96. Left Rear Side of PCU 100. Left Front Side of Battery Module Page 6028 Page 2981 9. Remove the Intelligent Power Unit (IPU) lid (six Torx bolts and 17 hex bolts). 10. Measure the voltage between the junction board terminals. There should be 10 volts or less. ^ If you have more than 10 volts, there is a problem in the IMA system. Look for and troubleshoot any DTCs before continuing. ^ If you have 10 volts or less, continue to step 11. 11. Lift the foam insert out of the battery module. Page 8293 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: - Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest OHMS" range. Page 9477 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 3960 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Page 2245 125. Below Front of Engine Page 3645 16. Measure voltage between the clutch switch 2P connector terminal No.2 and body ground with the clutch pedal pressed. Is there approx. 5 V? YES - Repair short in the wire between the clutch switch and G402. NO - Repair open in the wire between the ECM (B14) and the clutch switch. Page 9678 SRS - Component Location Index Page 6656 Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box Page 9328 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 603 Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow from power at the top of the diagram to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another for example is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors Page 1015 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. Page 7691 Air Bag Control Module: Description and Operation The SRS is a safety device which, when used in conjunction with the seat belt, is designed to help protect the driver and passenger in a frontal impact exceeding a certain set limit. The system consists of the SRS unit, including a safing sensor and an impact sensor (A), the cable reel (B), the driver's airbag (C) and the passenger's airbag (D). The seat belt tensioner (E) is linked with the SRS airbags to further increase the effectiveness of the seat belt. In a front-end collision, the tensioner instantly retracts the belt firmly to secure the occupants in their seats. Operation The main circuit in the SRS unit senses and judges the force of impact and, if necessary, ignites the inflator charges. If battery voltage is too low or power is disconnected due to impact, the voltage regulator and the back-up power circuit respectively will keep voltage at a constant level For the SRS to operate: 1. The impact sensor must activate and send electronic signals to the microprocessor. 2. The microprocessor must compute the signals and send them to the airbag inflators (and seat belt tensioners). 3. The inflators must ignite and deploy the airbags land activate the tensioners). Page 7027 Suspension Strut / Shock Absorber: Specifications Rear TIGHTENING SPECIFICATIONS Upper Flange Bolts .............................................................................................................................. ............................................... 54 N.m (40 ft. lbs.) Lower Flange Bolt ................................................. ............................................................................................................................. 59 N.m (43 ft. lbs.) Air Bag Disarming and Arming Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Service and Repair Air Bag Disarming and Arming General Precautions Please read the following precautions carefully before performing the airbag system service. Observe the instructions described or the airbags could accidentally deploy and cause damage or injuries. Except when performing electrical inspections, always turn the ignition switch OFF and disconnect the negative cable from the battery, and wait at least three minutes before beginning work. NOTE: The contents in the memory is not erased even if the ignition switch is turned OFF or the battery cables are disconnected from the battery. Use the replacement parts which are manufactured to the same standards as the original parts and quality. Do not install used SRS parts from another vehicle. Use only new parts when making SRS repairs. Carefully inspect any SRS part before you install it. Do not install any part that shows signs of being dropped or improperly handled, such as dents, cracks or deformation. Before removing any of the SRS parts (including the disconnection of the connectors), always disconnect the SRS connector. Use only a digital multimeter to check the system. If it is not a Honda multimeter, make sure its output is 10 mA (0.01 A) or less when switched to the lowest value in the ohmmeter range. A tester with a higher output could cause accidental deployment and possible injury. Do not put objects on the front passenger's airbag. The original radio has a coded theft protection circuit. Be sure to get the customer's radio code before disconnecting the battery cable. Page 4313 Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution diagram set to get a more detailed picture of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Page 9371 Splices Components Ground - "G" Page 5901 6. Install the upper brake hose bracket (A) with the 6 mm flange bolts (B). 7. Connect the brake line (C) to the brake hose. 8. Bleed the brake system. 9. Do the following checks: ^ Check the brake hose and line joint for leaks, and tighten if necessary. ^ Check the brake hoses for interference and twisting. Page 2086 First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 10278 Wiper Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relay Test Five-terminal type: Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 5 terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 4 terminals when power is disconnected. - Fan control relay - Low beam cut relay (Canada) - Windshield wiper intermittent relay Locations Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Locations Relay And Control Unit Locations - Dashboard Page 4499 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 6562 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. Page 940 Ambient Temperature Sensor / Switch HVAC: Service and Repair Outside Air Temperature Sensor Replacement 1. Remove the outside air temperature sensor (A), then disconnect the 2P connector (B). 2. Install the sensor in the reverse order of removal. Page 1614 5. Adjust the idle speed. If necessary, by turning the idle adjusting screw (A) 1/2-turn clockwise or counterclockwise. NOTE: - Do not turn the idle adjusting screw (A) more than 1/2-turn without checking the idle speed. - Do not turn the idle adjusting screw when the air conditioner is on. 6. After turning the idle adjusting screw (A) 1/2-turn, check the idle speed again. If it is out of spec, turn the idle adjusting screw (A) 1/2-turn again. 7. Let the engine idle for 1 minute with the heater fan switch on HI and air conditioner on, then check the idle speed. NOTE: If the idle speed is not within specification, go to the Symptom Troubleshooting index. See: Powertrain Management/Computers and Control Systems/Testing and Inspection/Symptom Related Diagnostic Procedures 8. Reconnect the EVAP canister purge valve 2P connector. 9. Do the ECM idle learn procedure. Page 2281 Splices Components Ground - "G" Page 8213 Cavity Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity / terminal shown is # 6. Circuit Schematics Page 7150 NO - Go to step 9. 9. Turn the ignition switch ON(II), and check the same terminals for voltage. Is there any voltage? YES - Repair any short to power in the wire(s) between the heater control panel and the mode control motor. This short may also damage the heater control panel. Repair the short to power before replacing the heater control panel. NO - Go to step 10. 10. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 11. Check for continuity between the following terminals of heater control panel connector B (22P) and the mode control motor 7P connector. 22P: 7P: No. 6 No. 7 No. 9 No. 6 No. 10 No. 5 No. 20 No. 2 No. 21 No. 3 No. 22 No. 4 Is there continuity? YES - Check for loose wires or poor connections at heater control panel connector B (22P) and at mode control motor 7P connector. If the connections are good, substitute a known-good heater control panel, and recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away, replace the original heater control panel. NO - Repair any open in the wire(s) between the heater control panel and the mode control motor. 12. Remove the mode control motor. 13. Check the mode control linkage and doors for smooth movement. Do the mode control linkage and doors move smoothly? Page 8689 - Check the damper housing position and for damage. Page 10306 Windshield Washer Motor: Testing and Inspection Washer Motor Test 1. Remove the right front inner fender. 2. Disconnect the 2P connectors (A) from the washer motors (B). 3. Test the washer motor by connecting battery power to terminal No. 1 and connect terminal No. 2 to body ground. The washer motor should operate. If the washer motor does not operate, replace it. Page 9325 In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locater) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: - Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. Page 4362 16. Measure voltage between the clutch switch 2P connector terminal No.2 and body ground with the clutch pedal pressed. Is there approx. 5 V? YES - Repair short in the wire between the clutch switch and G402. NO - Repair open in the wire between the ECM (B14) and the clutch switch. Page 8642 Wires Page 2808 Page 4307 Terminals - "T" Shielding Switches Fuses Campaign - Premature IMA Battery Module Failures Technical Service Bulletin # 06-026 Date: 080205 Campaign - Premature IMA Battery Module Failures 06-026 February 5, 2008 Applies To: 2000-04 Insight - See VEHICLES AFFECTED Product Update: Premature IMA Battery Module Failure (Supersedes 06-026, dated May 13, 2006) Updated information is shown with black bars in the images and asterisks in the text. BACKGROUND *NOTE: Because of a class action settlement, the warranty coverage for the IMA battery on 2002-04 Insights purchased or leased between April 13, 2002, and November 7, 2006, is now 10 years or 157,500 miles, whichever occurs first. For more information, refer to Service Bulletin 06-085, Warranty Extension: Vehicle Warranty Mileage.* American Honda is announcing a product update to replace certain IMA components to help prevent IMA battery deterioration. This product update applies only in states where there is an abnormally high replacement rate for IMA batteries. The IMA battery control module(s) allows the battery to overcharge. Occasional overcharging is a desirable function, but too many frequently repeated cycles of overcharge can damage the IMA battery. This damage is the result of excessive current and heat build up. Unique local topographical and ambient conditions in affected states, combined with a driving cycle that typically keeps the IMA battery fully charged, create this potential problem. VEHICLES AFFECTED This product update affects all 2000-04 Insights registered in the states of Arizona, California, Colorado, Florida, Hawaii, Nevada, and Texas, the shaded states on this map) as shown. To verify vehicle eligibility, check for at least one of these items: ^ The customer has a notification letter. ^ The vehicle is shown as eligible on a VIN status inquiry. In addition to these verification items, check for a punch mark above the 14th character of the engine compartment VIN. A punch mark in that location means the product update has already been completed. CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION Owners of affected vehicles within the seven states have received a notification of this product update. An example of the notification is shown in this service bulletin. Page 6987 6. Remove the brake disc retaining flat screws (A). 7. Screw two 8 x 1.25 mm bolts (B) into the disc to push it away from the hub. Turn each bolt two turns at a time to prevent cocking the disc excessively. 8. Remove the flange bolts (A) and wheel sensor (B) from the knuckle. Do not disconnect the wheel sensor connector. 9. Turn the front of the knuckle outward. Tap the driveshaft (A) inward with a plastic hammer to allow space to install the special tool on the lower arm ball joint. Locations Starter Relay: Locations Under Dash Relay Box View Page 6306 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: - Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest OHMS" range. Page 5236 Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Service and Repair Transmission Range Switch Replacement 1. Remove the air cleaner housing. 2. Remove the transmission range switch connector from the connector bracket (A), then disconnect it. 3. Remove the transmission range switch (B). 4. Shift the transmission into the [N] position by turning the control lever (A). Do not squeeze the end (B) of the control shaft tips together when shifting. If the tips are squeezed together it will cause a faulty signal or position due to the play between the control shaft and the switch. 5. Set the transmission range switch to the [N] position. The switch clicks in the [N] position. 6. Install the transmission range switch gently on the control shaft, then tighten the bolts. Do not move the switch when tightening the bolts. 7. Connect the connector securely, then install it on its bracket. Page 5895 Brake Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch: Diagrams 25. Brake Fluid Level Switch 205. Brake Fluid Pressure Sensor A 206. Brake Fluid Pressure Sensor B Page 7629 Air Bag: Locations 47. Steering Wheel (Airbag Removed) 65. Behind Glove Box Page 8173 Front Door Window Motor: Connector Locations 76. In Front of Driver's Door 78. In Front of Passenger's Door Page 5800 Brake Warning Indicator: Diagnostic Aids Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Page 6202 17. Holding the drive gear (A), turn the gear shaft (B) clockwise. Check that the drive gear comes out to the other end. If the drive gear does not move smoothly, replace the gear cover assembly. 18. Holding the drive gear, turn the gear shaft counterclockwise. The gear shaft should rotate freely. If the gear shaft does not rotate smoothly, replace the gear cover assembly. 19. If the starter drive gear is worn or damaged, replace the gear cover assembly. Check the condition of the flywheel ring gear if the drive gear teeth are damaged. 20. Reassemble the starter in reverse order of disassembly. Page 9874 32. Left Front Side of Engine Compartment Page 8746 EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 9368 Wire Color Abbreviations Testing and Inspection Brake Master Cylinder: Testing and Inspection MASTER CYLINDER INSPECTION NOTE: ^ Before reassembling, check that all parts are free of dust and other foreign particles. ^ Do not try to disassemble the master cylinder assembly. Replace the master cylinder assembly with a new part if necessary. ^ Do not allow dirt or foreign matter to contaminate the brake fluid. Locations 23. Left Rear of Engine Compartment Page 6071 Page 3421 Cylinder Identification Sensor: Description and Operation TDC Sensor 1/2 CKP Sensor TDC (Top Dead Center) 1/2 and CKP (Crankshaft Position) Sensors The TDC 1 and TDC 2 sensors detect the position of the No.1 cylinder as a reference for sequential fuel injection to each cylinder. The CKP sensor detects engine speed and determines ignition timing and timing for fuel injection of each cylinder. Page 6890 A battery voltage (B+) circuit which is only powered with the ignition switch in the ON, or START positions. Initiator The electrical component inside the air bag assembly which, when sufficient current flows, sets off the chemical reaction that inflates the air bag. "Initiator Assembly Resistance Test" Tests performed once each ignition cycle when no malfunctions are detected during "Turn-ON" or "Continuous Monitoring." This test checks for the correct SDM configuration for the vehicle, shorts to "Ignition 1 in the deployment loops, high resistance or opens in the "Driver Side High", "Driver Side Low", "Passenger Side High" and "Passenger Side Low" circuits and measures the resistance of the inflator assembly consisting of: 1. Initiators. 2. SRS coil assembly (driver side only). 3. Connectors and associated wiring. Normal Operating Voltage Range The voltage measured between the SDM "Ignition 1" terminals and "Ground" terminals is between 9 and 16 volts. Passenger Current Source An output of the SDM which applies current into the passenger air bag assembly circuit during the "Initiator Assembly Resistance Test". Passenger Air Bag Assembly An assembly located in the right side of the instrument panel consisting of an inflatable bag, an inflator and an initiator. Scan Tool An external computer used to read diagnostic information from on-board computers via the data link connector. SDM Sensing and Diagnostic Module which provides reserve energy to the deployment loops, deploys the air bags when required and performs diagnostic monitoring of all SRS components. Serial Data Information representing the status of the SRS. SRS Supplemental Restraint System. SRS Coil Assembly An assembly of two current-carrying coils in the driver deployment loop that allows the rotation of the steering wheel while maintaining the continuous contact of the driver deployment loop to the driver air bag assembly. SRS Wiring Harness The wires and connectors that electrically connect the components in the SRS. "Turn-ON" Test which the SDM performs on the SRS once during each ignition cycle immediately after "Ignition 1" voltage is applied to the SDM and before "Continuous Monitoring". Page 9567 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Page 2097 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 7018 3. Install the rest of the parts except for the washer and self-locking nut onto the damper unit referring to the Exploded View. Align the spring bottom end (A), the stepped part of the dust cover lower mount (B), and the step on the lower spring seat (C). 4. Install the damper assembly on a commercially available strut spring compressor (D). 5. Compress the damper spring with the strut: spring compressor. 6. Install a new washer (A) and a new self-locking nut (B) on the damper shaft. 7. Hold the damper shaft with a hex wrench (C), and tighten the self-locking nut to the specified torque. Installation 1. Lower the lower arm, and position the damper assembly (A) in the body. 2. Loosely install new self-locking nuts (B) onto the top of the damper. Page 1030 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Page 159 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: Page 426 Page 8549 Use the double action sander and #240-#320-#400 disc papers. 3. Air blowing / degreasing Also clean and degrease the surfaces where masking tape will be attached. Use the alcohol, wax and grease remover. Undercoating Undercoating 1. Masking Mask the area surrounding the damage to prevent over spray from the primer surfacer. Use the masking tape and paper. 2. Spraying primer surfacer - Spray the primer surfacer over a wider area than the body filler and the exposed surface of the paint film. - Spray 2-3 coats to get 30 microns of thickness. Use the 2-part urethane primer surfacer and a spray gun. - Mix the primer surfacer with the additive and solvent, and in the correct ratio. - Follow the primer surfacer manufacturer's instructions. 3. Drying After spraying primer surfacer, allow for 5-10 minutes of normal drying time, then force dry it with infrared lamps or other industrial dryer. NOTE: Follow the primer surfacer manufacturer's instruction for drying time. 4. Polishing Check that the primer surfacer has dried thoroughly, then sand the primer surfacer. Page 8816 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Description and Operation Malfunction Lamp / Indicator: Description and Operation SRS Indicator Light / Self-diagnosis System A self-diagnosis circuit is built into the SRS unit; when the ignition switch is turned ON (II), the SRS indicator light comes on and goes off after about six seconds if the system is operating normally. If the light does not come on, does not go off after six seconds, or it comes on while driving, it indicates an abnormality in the system. The system must be inspected and repaired as soon as possible. For battery serviceability, the memory will store the cause of the malfunction, and the data link circuit passes on the information from the memory to the data link connector (DLC). This information can be read with the Honda PGM Tester connected to the DLC (16P). Page 2340 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 4757 First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 1810 Fuse: Application and ID Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box Page 62 43. Under Left Side of Dash (Honda Accessory) Page 7420 Heater Control Valve Cable: Adjustments Heater Valve Cable Adjustment 1. From under the hood, open the cable clamp (A), then disconnect the heater valve cable (B) from the heater valve arm (C). 2. From under the dash, disconnect the heater valve cable housing from the cable clamp (A), and disconnect the heater valve cable (B) from the air mix control linkage (C). 3. Set the temperature control dial on Max Cool with the ignition switch ON (II). 4. Attach the heater valve cable (B) to the air mix control linkage (C) as shown. Hold the end of the heater valve cable housing against the stop (D), then snap the heater valve cable housing into the cable clamp (A). 5. From under the hood, turn the heater valve arm (C) to the fully closed position as shown, and hold it. Attach the heater valve cable (B) to the heater valve arm, and gently pull on the heater valve cable housing to take up any slack, then install the heater valve cable housing into the cable clamp (A). Page 3700 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Page 6815 Front Steering Knuckle: Service and Repair Knuckle/Hub/Hub Bearing Unit Replacement Special Tools Required Hub assembly driver attachment 07GAF-SD40200 - Ball joint remover, 28 mm 07MAC-SL00200 - Hub dis/assembly tool 07965-SA70100 - Support base 07965-SD90100 NOTICE: To avoid damage, do not strike aluminum parts with a metal hammer. If necessary, tap gently with a plastic tipped hammer. NOTE: Nuts and bolts with the [star] mark are special corrosion-resistant Dacro fasteners. Use the same type if replacement is necessary. 1. Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper location. Page 1471 197. Driving Mode Buttons (CVT) Page 275 175. Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box Page 3833 DTC P0401 thru P0562 Page 5131 Knock Sensor: Description and Operation Knock Sensor The knock control system adjusts the ignition timing to minimize knock. Component Locations Fuse Block: Component Locations 28. Left Front Side of Engine Compartment 33. Underside of Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right Alignment: All Technical Service Bulletins Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right 06-068 May 2, 2009 Applies To: ALL *Vehicle Pulls or Drifts, and/or Steering Wheel Is Off-Center (Supersedes 06-068, Vehicle Pulling or Drifting, dated October 4, 2007, to revise the information marked by asterisks) (Replaces 90-011, Steering Wheel Off-Center Adjustment at PDI)* *REVISION SUMMARY The title description was revised.* SYMPTOM While driving on a straight road, the vehicle pulls or drifts to the right or left. BACKGROUND New tools were developed to help you diagnose and correct a pulling and/or steering wheel off-center issue. There is a diagnosis worksheet included to take on your test-drive and record your findings. These values are used to build the 15-digit DTC (diagnostic trouble code) that is required for your warranty claim. The last step in each repair procedure helps you create the correct code. In the rare case that you have to repair a vehicle that pulls and has the steering wheel off-center, use REPAIR PROCEDURE B to file your warranty claim. For more information, refer to Training Module SSC 44 - Steering Drift or Pull Interactive Service Bulletin. PROBABLE CAUSES Several conditions can cause the vehicle to pull or drift: ^ Wheel alignment ^ Tires ^ Off-center steering wheel (no pulling or drifting, but a customer may believe this is the case) CORRECTIVE ACTION Diagnose the problem using the special tools and the worksheet on page 4 that guides you to one of four repair procedures. TOOL INFORMATION Centering Tape (enough to diagnose 240 vehicles): T/N O7AAJ-001A300 Steering Drift Set Level: T/N 07AAJ-00100 Steering Drift Set: T/N O7MJ-001A140 Replacement Weight for Steering Drift Set: T/N 07AAJ-001A400 WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Failed Part: P/N 53560-SDA-AO1 H/C 7139652 Page 4270 ECM Inputs and Outputs at Connector B (25P) Part 1 Page 3439 84. Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor Page 1997 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. Page 8490 38. Under Left Side of Dash 43. Under Left Side of Dash (Honda Accessory) Locations 2. Right Front Side of Engine Compartment Page 6649 Relay Box: Electrical Diagrams Connector-to-Fuse/Relay Box Index Image 6-1 Page 4378 Crankshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair Replacement 1. Disconnect the CKP sensor connector, then remove the CKP sensor (A). 2. Install the CKP sensor using a new O-ring (B). Page 5660 Transmission Mode Switch: Service and Repair Mode Switch Replacement 1. Remove the screws securing the mode switch, then remove the switch. 2. Disconnect the connector from the switch. 3. Install the new mode switch. Page 2179 Valve: Service and Repair For further information regarding this component and the system it is a part of, please refer to Cylinder Head Assembly; Service and Repair. Page 7465 Page 6950 8. Unbend the locking tabs (A) on the stop plate (B), and loosen the 12 mm bolts (C). 9. Separate the tie-rods (A), by removing the 12 mm bolts (B), the stop plate (C), tie-rod plate (D), and seal washers (E). 10. Disconnect the motor 2P connector (A) and torque sensor 7P connector (B). After disconnecting the connectors, tape them connectors to keep out dust, dirt, and foreign materials. Page 6223 16. Starter Solenoid Page 10068 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 9714 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. Page 2130 Crankshaft: Service and Repair For further information regarding this component and the system it is a part of, please refer to Cylinder Block Assembly; Service and Repair. Page 7186 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. Page 8863 Cavity Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity / terminal shown is # 6. Circuit Schematics Page 264 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Page 1061 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: Page 9499 110. DRL And Low Beam Cut Relays (Canada) A/T - Vehicle Speed Sensor Installation Precautions Vehicle Speed Sensor: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Vehicle Speed Sensor Installation Precautions Install VSS Properly to Avoid Reman A/T Damage We can't emphasize enough how important it is to follow, to the letter, the installation instructions that come with a reman A/T. These instructions help ensure that you avoid damaging the A/T and score a successful repair. This is particularly true when it comes to installing the vehicle speed sensor (VSS). Step 6 of the instructions tells you to make sure its gear is fully engaged and the VSS is fully seated before you tighten the retaining bolt. If you don't install the VSS properly, the speed sensor gear will get stripped and the A/T will be seriously damaged. So don't take risks with your customer's vehicle. Always follow these instructions to the letter. You can rest assured you're doing the job right. Page 4324 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: Page 4463 Vehicle Speed Sensor: Testing and Inspection Vehicle Speed Signal Circuit Troubleshooting Special Tools Required: Test Harness 07LAJ-PT3020A Before testing, inspect the No. 4 (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box. 1. Disconnect the 3P connector from the VSS (vehicle speed sensor) (A). 2. Connect the test harness only to the engine wire harness. 3. Connect the RED test harness clip (B) to the positive prove of an ohmmeter. Cover the white (C) and green (D) test harness with protective tape (E). 4. Check for continuity between the RED test harness clip and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Go to step 5. NO - Repair open in the BLK wire between the VSS and G101. 5. Connect the WHT test harness clip (C) to the positive probe of a voltmeter, and connect the RED test harness clip (B) to the negative probe. 6. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 7. NO - Repair open in the BLK/YEL wire between the VSS and the under-dash fuse/relay box. 7. Disconnect the WHT test harness clip (C). Page 4382 Page 7665 Clockspring Assembly / Spiral Cable: Adjustments Cable Reel Alignment - Misalignment of the cable reel could cause an open in the wiring making the SRS system and the horns inoperative. Center the cable reel whenever the following is performed. Installation of the steering wheel - Installation of the cable reel - Installation of the steering column - Other steering-related adjustment or installation - Do not disassemble the cable reel. - Do not apply grease on the cable reel. - If the cable reel shows any signs of damage (for example, it does not rotate smoothly) replace it with a new one. Page 863 Brake Fluid Level Sensor/Switch: Testing and Inspection Brake Fluid Level Switch Test Check for continuity between the terminals (A) with the float in the down position and the up position: ^ Remove the brake fluid completely from the reservoir. With the float down, there should be continuity. ^ Fill the reservoir with brake fluid to MAX (upper) level (B). With the float up, there should be no continuity. Page 9215 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. Page 4034 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Service and Repair Windshield: Service and Repair Windshield Replacement NOTE: Familiarize yourself with the glass replacement process. Parts Removal First remove these items: - Rearview mirror - Headliner, as necessary - Windshield wiper arms - Cowl cover - A-pillar exterior trim Cutting Positions Slip the piano wire through the adhesive at each position as shown, and pull it back as indicated by the arrows. Page 1707 Coolant: Service Precautions Always use Genuine Honda Antifreeze/Coolant. Using a non-Honda coolant can result in corrosion, causing the cooling system to malfunction or fail. For best corrosion protection, the coolant concentration must be maintained year-round at 50% minimum. Coolant concentrations less than 50% may not provide sufficient protection against corrosion or freezing. Coolant concentrations greater than 60% will impair cooling efficiency and are not recommended. Do not use additional rust inhibitors or anti-rust products; they may not be compatible with the coolant. Mixing green and red colored coolants is not recommended. Page 5234 199. Transmission Range Switch (CVT) Page 1838 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Page 2996 Motor Control Module (MCM): Description and Operation MDM (Motor Driver Module) The MDM consists of the MPI module, voltage converter module, capacitor, and the U/V/W phase motor current sensors. The voltage converter acts as a preamplifier for the IGBTs. The IGBTs are used to transfer electrical energy to the motor from the 144 V battery and vice versa. The IGBTs are activated by the MCM based on the amount of assist/regeneration is needed. The voltage converter module monitors voltage and temperature of the MDM, and sends this information to the MCM. Page 9218 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. Page 10291 139. Wiper/Washer Switch Page 9252 Diodes How to Identify Wiring Color-Coded Insulation Wire Color Removal and Installation Engine Control Module: Service and Repair Removal and Installation How to Remove the ECM for Testing NOTE: - Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the radio, then write down the frequencies for the radio's preset buttons before you disconnect the negative cable from the battery. - Enter the anti-theft code, then the customer's radio station presets, and set the clock after you reconnect the negative cable to the battery. 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. 2. Pull the passenger's side carpet back to expose the ECM (A). 3. Unbolt the ECM cover (B). 4. Lift the lower edge of the ECM cover off of the lower studs. Make sure the ECM is not touching the studs. 5. Lift the upper edge of the ECM cover enough to clear the upper studs, then pull the cover down away from the evaporator drain tube. 6. Unbolt the ECM from the cover. 7. Disconnect the ECM connectors. 8. Install the ECM in reverse order of removal. 9. Do the ECM idle learn procedure Description and Operation Brake Signal: Description and Operation Brake Switch The brake switch signals the ECM when the brake pedal is pressed. Page 4865 In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locater) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: - Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. Page 4650 Idle Speed: Testing and Inspection Idle Stop Switch Signal Circuit Troubleshooting CVT model 1. Check the idle stop switch position. Is the position OK? YES - Go to step 2. NO - Check the idle stop switch adjustment. 2. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 3. Press the brake pedal. 4. Measure voltage between the ECM connector terminals A31 and B20. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 5. NO - Go to step 7. 5. Release the brake pedal. 6. Measure voltage between ECM connector terminals A31 and B20. Is voltage less than 1.0 V? YES - Idle Stop Switch signal is OK. NO - Go to step 14. 7. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 8. Disconnect the Idle Stop Switch switch 2P connector. 9. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). Page 4503 EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 8481 Power Door Lock Actuator: Diagrams 32. Door Lock Actuator, Passenger's 81. Door Lock Knob Switch/Lock Actuator, Driver's Page 7737 Seat Belt: Description and Operation Seat Belt and Seat Belt Buckle Tensioners The seat belt and seat belt buckle tensioners are linked with the SRS airbags to further increase the effectiveness of the seat belt. In a front-end collision, the tensioners instantly retract the belt and buckle firmly to secure the occupants in their seats. Page 7102 Air Conditioning Switch: Testing and Inspection A/C Pressure Switch Circuit Troubleshooting 1. Disconnect the A/C pressure switch 4P connector. 2. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 3. Measure the voltage between the No. 1 terminal of the A/C pressure switch 4P connector and body ground. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 4. NO - Repair open in the wire between the A/C diode, the ECM and the A/C pressure switch. 4. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 5. Check for continuity between the No. 1 and No. 4 terminals of the A/C pressure switch. Is there continuity? YES - Go to step 6. NO - Go to step 10. 6. Reconnect the A/C pressure switch 4P connector. 7. Disconnect climate control unit connector B (22P). 8. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 9. Measure the voltage between the No. 17 terminal of climate control unit connector B (22P) and body ground. Page 7904 Remote Transmitter Quick Reference Guide 90-93 Accord, 92-93 Civic & Prelude, 93 Del SOL 1990-93 Accord (2-door and 4-door) with dealer-installed security system 1992-93 Civic with dealer-installed security system 1993 del Sol with dealer-installed security system 1992-93 Prelude with dealer-installed security system Programming the Transmitter NOTE: Page 8492 Power Door Lock Control Module: Testing and Inspection Power Door Locks Control Unit Input Test 1. Remove the driver's pocket. 2. Disconnect the 18P connector (B) from the keyless door lock control unit (A). 3. Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are making good contact. - If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system. - If the terminals look OK, go to step 4. Page 7194 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. Page 10133 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Diagram Information and Instructions Information Bus: Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System Terminal Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown below is #6. Page 6230 Wire Color Abbreviations Page 6665 Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box Page 7985 NOTE: It is very important that you fill out this form fully and accurately. An accurate explanation of the problem and conditions helps the manufacturer to duplicate the problem, speeding the repair, and reducing the number of No Trouble Found" (NTF) units. Disclaimer Campaign - Integrated Motor Assist Controller Update Technical Service Bulletin # 01-102 Date: 011127 Campaign - Integrated Motor Assist Controller Update 01-102 November 27, 2001 Applies To: 2000-01 Insight with M/T - See VEHICLES AFFECTED Product Update: IMA Controller Modification BACKGROUND The IMA (Integrated Motor Assist) system supplies power to various 12-volt loads on the vehicle (lights, radio, windows, etc.) and assists the engine to improve vehicle performance. In very cold weather, power demands on the IMA battery module can exceed output, causing permanent damage to the battery module. VEHICLES AFFECTED Not all 2000-01 Insights with M/T are affected by this product update. Only vehicles that are registered and normally driven in cold weather areas are affected. Before you begin, verify that the vehicle is registered in one of the states affected by the update (see the map). Then check for vehicle eligibility by doing one of the following. ^ Verify that the customer has a notification letter. ^ Check the vehicle's VIN on your campaign responsibility report. ^ Do a VIN status inquiry on DCS. CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION All owners of affected vehicles will be sent a notification of this product update. An example of the customer notification. CORRECTIVE ACTION Replace the battery condition monitor (BCM) module and the motor control module (MCM). PARTS INFORMATION Page 8225 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 7497 30. Left Front Side of Engine Compartment Page 9863 110. DRL And Low Beam Cut Relays (Canada) Locations Camshaft Position Sensor: Locations PGM-FI System - Component Location Index Page 1420 Page 621 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. Page 5242 Transmission Speed Sensor: Locations 13. Middle of Engine 15. Front Top of Transmission Page 6737 NOTE: Do this repair procedure if, after doing step 10 of the test-drive, the vehicle pulled in the opposite direction after you swapped the front tires. 1. Swap wheels 2 and 4 on the passenger's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again. ^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 2, then go to step 3. ^ If the pull does not go away, put wheels 2 and 4 back to their original positions, and go to step 2. 2. Swap wheels 1 and 3 on the driver's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again. ^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 1, then go to step 3. ^ If the pull does not go away, use a known-good tire in position 1 and continue diagnosis. 3. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC. REPAIR PROCEDURE B Page 3466 Oxygen Sensor: Diagrams 103. Secondary HO2S 128. Primary HO2S ('00 And Early Production '01) Service and Repair Vehicle Lifting: Service and Repair Lift and Support Points Frame Hoist Position the hoist lift blocks (A), on safety stands, under the vehicle's front support points (B) and rear support points (C). 1. Raise the hoist a few inches (centimeters), and rock the vehicle gently to be sure it is firmly supported. 2. Raise the hoist to full height, and inspect the lift points for solid contact with the lift blocks. If you are going to remove heavy components such as suspension or the fuel tank from the rear of the vehicle, first support the front of the vehicle with a tall safety stand. When substantial weight is removed from the rear of the vehicle, the center of gravity can change and cause the vehicle to tip forward on the hoist. Safety Stands To support the vehicle on safety stands, use the same support points (B and C) as for a frame hoist. Always use safety stands when working on or under any vehicle that is supported only by a jack. Floor Jack 1. Set the parking brake. 2. Place a rubber pad between the lift platform and the center support point. NOTE: The platform must contact the center support point only; it must not come in contact with any other part of the vehicle. 3. Position the floor jack under the left or right center support point (A), center the jack lift platform (B) on the jacking point, and jack up the vehicle high enough to fit the safety stands under it. 4. Position the safety stands under the support points and adjust them so the vehicle will be level. Page 3119 DTC P0401 thru P0562 Diagrams Page 6249 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 10262 Rubber Dams, Dashboard Seal and Fastener Installation and Primer Application - Be sure the rubber dams, dashboard seal and fasteners line up with the alignment marks. - Attach the rubber dams, the dashboard seal, and the fasteners with adhesive tape. - To attach the molding, apply primer to the areas between the alignment marks of the windshield. Molding Installation - Be sure the alignment marks on the molding lines up with the alignment marks on the windshield. - Attach the molding with adhesive tape. Page 10182 Power Window Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relay Test Normally-open type A: 1. Turn the battery module switch OFF, and measure the voltage. 2. Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is disconnected. A/C compressor clutch relay - Air fuel ratio sensor relay - Condenser fan relay - Daytime running lights relay (Canada) - Headlight relay 1 - Headlight relay 2 - High speed battery module fan control relay - High speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - High voltage conductor control relay - Horn relay - Ignition hold relay - Low speed battery module fan control relay - Low speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - Power window relay - Radiator fan relay - Rear window defogger relay - Reverse relay - Starter cut relay Page 3840 DTC P1679 thru P1860 Diagram Information and Instructions Trunk / Liftgate Switch: Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System Terminal Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown below is #6. Page 5076 9. Front of Engine Page 9467 Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution diagram set to get a more detailed picture of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Page 8045 Page 9553 Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow from power at the top of the diagram to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another for example is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors Page 7161 Air Door Actuator / Motor: Service and Repair Recirculation Control Motor Recirculation Control Motor Replacement 1. Remove the glove box. 2. Remove the wire harness clip (A), then disconnect the 4P connector (B) from the recirculation control motor (C). Remove the self-tapping screws and the recirculation control motor from the blower unit. 3. Install the motor in the reverse order of removal. Make sure the pin on the motor is properly engaged with the linkage. After installation, make sure the motor runs smoothly. Page 9762 Map Light: Electrical Diagrams Diagram 114-0 Diagrams: Other diagrams referred to by number (See Diagram ##-#, etc.) within these diagrams can be found at Diagrams by Number. See: Diagrams/Electrical Diagrams/Diagrams By Number Locations: Location photographs (references to PHOTOS) referred to within these diagrams can be found at Locations by Photo Number. See: Locations/Component Locations/Locations By Photo Number Connector Views: Connector terminal views (references to VIEWS) referred to within these diagrams can be found at Connector Views by View Interior - Seat Belts Slow to Retract Seat Belt: Customer Interest Interior - Seat Belts Slow to Retract 03-062 September 16, 2003 Applies To: ALL Seat Belt Slow to Retract (Replaces 91-030, dated January 22, 1996) SYMPTOM The seat belt will not retract all the way, or retracts slowly. PROBABLE CAUSE Dirt on the seat belt webbing and guide. CORRECTIVE ACTION Clean the seat belts and guides with a mild soap and water solution, or isopropyl alcohol. This applies only to three-point active and passive seat belt systems, not to motorized systems. REQUIRED MATERIALS Required only for three-point passive seat belts. Teflon Tape (ten pieces per package): P/N 81496-SH3-505, H/C 4008041 WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION This repair is covered by the Lifetime Seat Belt Limited Warranty. Failed Part: P/N 818AD-SM1-A05ZB H/C 3478047 Defect Code: L11 Contention Code: B99 Skill Level: Repair Technician REPAIR PROCEDURE Three-Point Active Seat Belts 1. Use either isopropyl alcohol, or prepare a solution of 5 ounces of mild dishwashing liquid in a gallon of warm water. NOTICE Do not use strong cleaning solutions, upholstery cleaners or commercial automotive interior cleaners. They can affect the durability of the webbing. Page 4771 Fuel Pump Relay: Connector Views Page 1577 1. Place the vehicle on a commercially available, computerized, four-wheel alignment rack, and record the following measurements. Follow the equipment manufacturer's instructions. NOTE: Enter each reading in decimal degrees. Example 30' = 0.50. 2. If any measurement is out of specification, inspect the front suspension for any damage. Repair any damaged parts before continuing your diagnosis. 3. Determine how the front wheel camber is affecting the pull. Pick the combination of left- and right-front camber that best matches the vehicle you are repairing, then note the camber thrust direction for that combination: NOTE: ^ If the camber of both front wheels is negative, but one wheel is grossly more negative than the other, the camber thrust direction will be opposite the wheel with more negative camber (for example, if the left-front wheel is more negative, the camber thrust direction is right). ^ If the camber of both front wheels is positive, but one wheel is grossly more positive than the other, the camber thrust direction will be the same as the wheel with more positive camber (for example, if the left-front wheel is more positive, the camber thrust direction is left). 4. Determine how the camber needs to be adjusted. 5. Adjust the camber as needed. Front Camber Adjustment, Double Wishbone Suspension Page 3711 4. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 5. Measure voltage between DLC terminals No.5 and No.7. Is there 8.5 V or more? YES - Go to step 10. NO - Go to step 6. 6. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 7. Disconnect ECM connector A (32P). 8. Check for continuity between DLC terminal No.7 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Repair short to ground in the wire between DLC terminal No.7 and the ECM (A21). After repairing the wire, check the DTC with the OBD II scan tool/Honda PGM Tester and go to the DTC Troubleshooting index. See: Testing and Inspection/Diagnostic Trouble Code Descriptions NO - Go to step 9. 9. Check for continuity between DLC terminal No.7 and ECM terminal A21. Is there continuity? YES - Update the ECM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes A/T - Vehicle Speed Sensor Installation Precautions Transmission Speed Sensor: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Vehicle Speed Sensor Installation Precautions Install VSS Properly to Avoid Reman A/T Damage We can't emphasize enough how important it is to follow, to the letter, the installation instructions that come with a reman A/T. These instructions help ensure that you avoid damaging the A/T and score a successful repair. This is particularly true when it comes to installing the vehicle speed sensor (VSS). Step 6 of the instructions tells you to make sure its gear is fully engaged and the VSS is fully seated before you tighten the retaining bolt. If you don't install the VSS properly, the speed sensor gear will get stripped and the A/T will be seriously damaged. So don't take risks with your customer's vehicle. Always follow these instructions to the letter. You can rest assured you're doing the job right. Page 8781 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. Page 9191 Wire Color Abbreviations Page 6526 Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box Page 96 Electronic Brake Control Module: Service and Repair ABS Modulator-Control Unit Removal and Installation NOTE: ^ Do not spill brake fluid on the vehicle; it may damage the paint; if brake fluid gets on the paint, wash it off immediately with water. ^ Take care not to damage or deform the brake lines during removal and installation. ^ To prevent the brake fluid from flowing, plug and cover the hose ends and joints with a shop towel or equivalent material. Removal 1. Pull up the lock (C) of the ABS control unit 25P connector (B), then disconnect the connector. 2. Disconnect the six brake lines. 3. Remove the two 6 mm nuts. 4. Remove the ABS modulator-control unit (A). Installation 1. Install the ABS modulator-control unit, then tighten the two 6 mm nuts. 2. Align the connecting surface of the ABS control unit 25P connector. 3. Push in the lock of the ABS control unit 25P connector until you hear it click into place, then connect the connector. 4. Bleed the brake system, starting with the front wheels. 5. Start the engine, and check that the ABS indicator goes off. 6. Test-drive the vehicle, and check that the ABS indicator does not come on. Locations Intake Air Temperature Sensor: Locations PGM-FI System - Component Location Index Page 5423 Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Service and Repair Transmission Range Switch Replacement 1. Remove the air cleaner housing. 2. Remove the transmission range switch connector from the connector bracket (A), then disconnect it. 3. Remove the transmission range switch (B). 4. Shift the transmission into the [N] position by turning the control lever (A). Do not squeeze the end (B) of the control shaft tips together when shifting. If the tips are squeezed together it will cause a faulty signal or position due to the play between the control shaft and the switch. 5. Set the transmission range switch to the [N] position. The switch clicks in the [N] position. 6. Install the transmission range switch gently on the control shaft, then tighten the bolts. Do not move the switch when tightening the bolts. 7. Connect the connector securely, then install it on its bracket. Page 7654 Air Bag Control Module: Description and Operation The SRS is a safety device which, when used in conjunction with the seat belt, is designed to help protect the driver and passenger in a frontal impact exceeding a certain set limit. The system consists of the SRS unit, including a safing sensor and an impact sensor (A), the cable reel (B), the driver's airbag (C) and the passenger's airbag (D). The seat belt tensioner (E) is linked with the SRS airbags to further increase the effectiveness of the seat belt. In a front-end collision, the tensioner instantly retracts the belt firmly to secure the occupants in their seats. Operation The main circuit in the SRS unit senses and judges the force of impact and, if necessary, ignites the inflator charges. If battery voltage is too low or power is disconnected due to impact, the voltage regulator and the back-up power circuit respectively will keep voltage at a constant level For the SRS to operate: 1. The impact sensor must activate and send electronic signals to the microprocessor. 2. The microprocessor must compute the signals and send them to the airbag inflators (and seat belt tensioners). 3. The inflators must ignite and deploy the airbags land activate the tensioners). Page 1257 Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Service and Repair ECT Sensor Replacement 1. Disconnect the ECT sensor connector, then remove the ECT sensor (A). 2. Install the ECT sensor using a new O-ring (B). Service and Repair Trunk / Liftgate Weatherstrip: Service and Repair Hatch Weatherstrip Replacement 1. Remove the hatch support strut from each side of the body. 2. Remove the hatch weatherstrip (A) by pulling it off. 3. Apply clear sealant (B) into the groove of the hatch weatherstrip all the way around. Sealant: Cemedine P/N 08712-0004, or equivalent 4. Locate the painted alignment mark (C) on the hatch weatherstrip. Align the painted mark with the alignment tab in the center of the hatch opening, and install the weatherstrip all the way around in the direction shown. Make sure there are no wrinkles in the weatherstrip. 5. Reinstall the hatch support struts. 6. Check for water leaks. Page 8747 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. Page 7776 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Locations Cabin Temperature Sensor / Switch: Locations Climate Control - Component Location Index Page 9916 Backup Lamp Switch: Service and Repair Back-Up Light and Neutral Position Switch Test 1. Disconnect the back-up light (A) or neutral position (B) switch 2P connector. 2. Check the continuity between the terminals (C). There should be continuity with the shift lever in reverse or neutral position. 3. If necessary, replace the switch. Page 9324 Transmission Shift Position Indicator Lamp: Diagnostic Aids Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Page 2353 Page 392 ^ If you still cannot hear the solenoid valve click or feel it tap when activated, continue with normal troubleshooting. 15. Insight only: Disconnect the PGM Tester, and return the vehicle to your customer. 16. All other affected models: Use the PGM Tester to run the EVAP system function test (see S/B 02-007, EVAP System Function Testing and Diagnostics With the PGM Tester). ^ If the EVAP system passes the function test, disconnect the PGM Tester, and return the vehicle to your customer. ^ If the EVAP system fails the function test, continue with normal troubleshooting. Disclaimer Component Locations Oxygen Sensor: Component Locations PGM-FI System - Component Location Index Part 1 Page 3349 First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 4903 Cavity Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity / terminal shown is # 6. Circuit Schematics Page 161 EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 6482 All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416 etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector or by a capital letter (A, B, C etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Connector Views that shows the connector terminals wire colors connector cavity numbers and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints shown on diagram [8] . Except for the DLC (data link connector) disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554 for example means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Page 2309 Variable Valve Timing Actuator: Electrical Diagrams Diagram 31 Diagrams: Other diagrams referred to by number (See Diagram ##-#, etc.) within these diagrams can be found at Diagrams by Number. See: Diagrams/Electrical Diagrams/Diagrams By Number Locations: Location photographs (references to PHOTOS) referred to within these diagrams can be found at Locations by Photo Number. See: Locations/Component Locations/Locations By Photo Number Connector Views: Connector terminal views (references to VIEWS) referred to within these diagrams can be found at Connector Views by View Number. See: Diagrams/Connector Views/Connector Views By View Number Page 3291 Fuel Pump Relay: Diagnostic Aids Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Page 391 P/N 17012-S01-A00 H/C 5999016 ECM/PCM: P/N 37820-P2P-A12 H/C 6104426 Defect Code: 072 Contention Code: C01 Skill Level: Repair Technician Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Connect the PGM Tester to the 16P data link connector. 2. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). Turn on the PGM Tester. 3. From the PROGRAM MENU screen, select HONDA SYSTEMS. 4. From the SYSTEM SELECT screen, select 1: PGM-FI. 5. From the TEST MODE MENU screen, select 6: INSPECTION. 6. From the INSPECTION MENU screen, select 2: EVAP TEST. 7. From the EVAP TEST MENU, select 1: SINGLE SOLENOIDS. 8. From the SINGLE SOLENOIDS MENU, activate the EVAP bypass solenoid valve. Listen for a click and feel for a light tap from the solenoid valve as you activate it. ^ If you can hear the solenoid valve click or feel it tap when activated, disregard this service bulletin, and look for other possible causes. ^ If you cannot hear the solenoid valve click or feel it tap when activated, go to step 9. 9. Replace the EVAP bypass solenoid valve (see section 11 of the appropriate service manual). 10. Test the new solenoid valve with the PGM Tester. ^ If you can hear the solenoid valve click or feel it tap when activated, go to step 15 or 16 as appropriate. ^ If you cannot hear the solenoid valve click or feel it tap when activated, go to step 11. 11. Check the wire harness and the connectors for damage. ^ If you find any damage, repair it, then go to step 12. ^ If you find no damage in the wire harness or connectors, go to step 13. 12. Test the solenoid valve again with the PGM Tester. ^ If you can hear the solenoid valve click or feel it tap when activated, go to step 15 or 16 as appropriate. ^ If you cannot hear the solenoid valve click or feel it tap when activated, go to step 13. 13. Replace the ECM/PCM (see section 11 of the appropriate service manual). 14. Use the PGM Tester to retest the solenoid valve. ^ If you can hear the solenoid valve click or feel it tap when activated, go to step 15 or 16 as appropriate. Page 8465 Programming the Transmitter This transmitter is not programmable. Ordering a Transmitter This transmitter is no longer available. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses two batteries. 97-99 EV Plus With Factory-Installed Security System 1997-99 EV Plus with factory-installed security system Programming the Transmitter NOTES: ^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased. ^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the programming mode. ^ You must complete steps 1-6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from exiting the programming mode. 1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter can be used for this step.) 3. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 4. Repeat steps 1, 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2. 5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode. 7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted the transmitter's code. 5. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered only through Tech Line. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery. 00-04 Insight With Factory-Installed Keyless Entry System 2000-04 Insight with factory-installed keyless entry system Page 6452 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. Page 1817 Fuse Block: Connector Locations Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box Page 2092 EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 8365 Cavity Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity / terminal shown is # 6. Circuit Schematics Page 3731 2. Remove the carpet hold-down clips on the door sill. 3. Remove the carpet hold-down clip in the passenger's footwell under the glove box. Pull back the carpet. 4. Remove the ECM cover mounting nuts. 5. Pivot the lower edge of the ECM cover off the mounting studs. Lift the upper edge of the cover off the mounting studs, then pull the cover down and back so it clears the evaporator drain tube. 6. Remove the two bolts mounting the ECM to the cover. Disconnect the ECM connectors, and remove the ECM. 7. Install the new ECM and the cover in the reverse order of removal. 8. Reinstall the carpet and the door sill trim. 9. Connect the PGM Tester to the data link connector (DLC). 10. Use the PGM Tester to program the customer's immobilizer key codes into the ECM. Verify that all the keys will start the engine. NOTE: Make sure the PGM Tester software is SN32OP or later. 11. Do the idle learn procedure: ^ Warm the engine to normal operating temperature. ^ Let the engine idle for 10 minutes. If the radiator fan comes on, do not include its running time in the 10 minutes. 12. Center-punch a completion mark above the eighth character of the engine compartment VIN. 13. For California residents: Fill out and give to your customer a Vehicle Emission Recall - Proof of Correction certificate. Advise them to keep this certificate as proof that the emissions recall was completed. Your customer will need to submit this certificate to the DMV if the DMV requests it. A supply of these salmon-colored certificates was sent to your service manager. If you need more, use reorder number Y0657. Specifications Page 2756 Battery Condition Monitor: Description and Operation BCM (Battery Condition Monitor) Module The BCM module determines the battery state of charge, and it controls the battery fan speed by looking at battery voltage, battery input/output current, and battery temperature. The BCM module then sends this information to the MCM to indicate the battery's state of charge and to keep the battery within predetermined limits. Because battery charging and discharging generates heat in the battery module, the BCM module also controls a fan that keeps the battery module from overheating. The fan operates in one of three modes: off, low, or high. If the BCM module detects an abnormality, it sends a signal to the MCM, which then turns on the IMA system indicator on the gauge assembly. Page 4856 Splices Components Ground - "G" Page 9716 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. General Precautions Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Service Precautions General Precautions General Precautions Please read the following precautions carefully before performing the airbag system service. Observe the instructions described or the airbags could accidentally deploy and cause damage or injuries. Except when performing electrical inspections, always turn the ignition switch OFF and disconnect the negative cable from the battery, and wait at least three minutes before beginning work. NOTE: The contents in the memory is not erased even if the ignition switch is turned OFF or the battery cables are disconnected from the battery. Use the replacement parts which are manufactured to the same standards as the original parts and quality. Do not install used SRS parts from another vehicle. Use only new parts when making SRS repairs. Carefully inspect any SRS part before you install it. Do not install any part that shows signs of being dropped or improperly handled, such as dents, cracks or deformation. Before removing any of the SRS parts (including the disconnection of the connectors), always disconnect the SRS connector. Use only a digital multimeter to check the system. If it is not a Honda multimeter, make sure its output is 10 mA (0.01 A) or less when switched to the lowest value in the ohmmeter range. A tester with a higher output could cause accidental deployment and possible injury. Do not put objects on the front passenger's airbag. The original radio has a coded theft protection circuit. Be sure to get the customer's radio code before disconnecting the battery cable. Page 10348 119. Right Side of Hatch Page 4566 Vehicle Speed Sensor: Description and Operation Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) The VSS is driven by the differential. It generates a pulsed signal from an input of 5 volts. The number of pulses per minute increases/decreases with the speed of the vehicle. Page 9510 Terminals - "T" Shielding Switches Fuses Page 6261 20. Accessory Power Socket Service and Repair Antenna Mast: Service and Repair Mast Antenna Replacement 1. Remove the headliner. 2. Disconnect the 1P connector (A) and antenna lead (B). 3. Remove the nut (C) and antenna mast (D). Page 7757 Wires Page 4465 Does the meter indicate pulsing voltage? YES - Replace the speedometer. NO - Repair open in the BLU/WHT wire between the VSS and the speedometer. Locations Page 7388 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. Page 1564 12. Test-drive your customer¡C■s vehicle on the same road you used earlier. - If the drift is now within spec, swap the tires back to the donor vehicle one at a time, and test-drive your customer¡C■s vehicle on the same road you used earlier. Do this until the drift comes back. Replace the bad tire(s), then return the vehicle to your customer. - If the drift is still out of spec using the donor vehicle tires, contact Tech Line for further action. Page 8234 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 9972 Hazard Warning Switch: Testing and Inspection Hazard Warning Switch Test/Replacement 1. Remove the instrument panel. 2. Disconnect the 10P connector (A) from the hazard warning switch (B). 3. Remove the two screws from the switch. 4. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table. 5. If the continuity check is not as specified, replace the illumination bulb (B) or the switch. Page 5343 Clutch Switch: Description and Operation Clutch pedal position Switch (M/T model) The clutch pedal position switch signals the ECM when the clutch pedal is pressed. Page 7641 2. Remove the access panel (A) from the steering wheel, then disconnect the driver's airbag 2P connector (B) from the cable reel. 3. Remove the cover (A) from the steering wheel, remove the two Torx bolts (B) using a Torx T30 bit, then remove the driver's airbag (C). 4. Disconnect the horn connector from the steering wheel. Installation 1. Place the new driver's airbag (A) in the steering wheel, and secure it with new Torx bolts (B). Install the covers (C). Audio/Navigation/RES - Warr. Exchange/Non-Warr Repair Navigation System: Technical Service Bulletins Audio/Navigation/RES - Warr. Exchange/Non-Warr Repair 06-001 February 26, 2010 Applies To: 1998 and Later Models - ALL Audio, Navigation, and RES Unit In-Warranty Exchange and Out-of-Warranty Repair (Supersedes 06-601, dated March 4, 2009, to revise the information marked by the black bars and asterisks) *REVISION SUMMARY Under OUT-OF-WARRANTY REPAIR, the address for Pioneer Electronics Service was changed.* COVERAGE This bulletin applies to all Honda audio units, CD players/changers, cassette tape players, navigation units, and rear entertainment system (RES) units, both in warranty and out of warranty. COMPONENT REPLACEMENT POLICY Use only remanufactured components for warranty repairs on customer vehicles. Follow the warranty information and procedures given in this service bulletin. ^ Remanufactured audio, navigation, and RES units are not available for non-warranty repairs. ^ Use new components to repair new, unsold vehicles. ^ A new component may be used to repair a customer's vehicle only if the remanufactured component is currently unavailable from American Honda. ^ You must receive authorization from your District Parts and Service Manager (DPSM) before ordering a new component. WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Operation Number: From the Flat Rate Manual Flat Rate Time: From the Flat Rate Manual Failed Part: Use the RM part number from the repair order without the RM (example: 08A06-341-110) Defect Code: From the Flat Rate Manual Symptom Code: From Audio Customer Contention Codes in the Flat Rate Manual Part used for repair: Use the RM part number from the repair order (example: 08A06-341-110RM) IN-WARRANTY DIAGNOSIS Service Advisor: Interview the customer to get as much information as possible. Information like where and when the problem occurs is vital to your diagnosis. This information also helps you to determine if the audio, navigation, or RES system is operating normally, or if a problem exists. Write the complaint on the repair order. NOTE: For CD/DVD related problems, you must verify if the customer used discs with adhesive labels. Service Technician: Page 9765 Map Light: Service and Repair Ceiling Light/Spotlights Test/Replacement 1. Turn the ceiling light/spotlights switches OFF. 2. Carefully pry off the lens (A) with a small screwdriver. 3. Remove the two screws and the housing (B). 4. Disconnect the 4P connector (C) from the housing. 5. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table. 6. If the continuity is not as specified, check the bulbs. If the bulbs are OK, replace the light. 7. When installing the ceiling/spotlights housing, if the thread in the ET screw is worn out, use an oversized ET screw made specifically for this application. Page 9200 All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416 etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector or by a capital letter (A, B, C etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Connector Views that shows the connector terminals wire colors connector cavity numbers and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints shown on diagram [8] . Except for the DLC (data link connector) disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554 for example means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Locations Page 3538 29. CKP Sensor Page 7924 Keyless Entry Transmitter: Testing and Inspection Power Door Locks Transmitter Test NOTE: - If the doors unlock or lock with the transmitter, but the LED on the transmitter does not come on, the LED is faulty; replace the transmitter. - If any door is open, you cannot lock the door with the transmitter. - If you unlocked the doors with the transmitter, but do not open any of the doors within 30 seconds, the doors relock automatically. - The doors do not lock or unlock with the transmitter if the ignition key is inserted in the ignition switch. 1. Press the lock or unlock button five or six times to reset the transmitter. - If the locks work, the transmitter is OK. - If the locks don't work, go to step 2. 2. Open the transmitter and check for water damage. - If you find any water damage, replace the transmitter. - If there is no water damage, go to step 3. 3. Replace the transmitter battery (A) with a new one, and try to lock and unlock the doors with the transmitter by pressing the lock or unlock button five or six times. - If the doors lock and unlock, the transmitter is OK. - If the doors don't lock and unlock, go to step 4. 4. Rewrite and register the transmitter code, then try to lock and unlock the doors. - If the doors lock and unlock, the transmitter is OK. - If the doors don't lock and unlock, replace the transmitter. Page 3643 Clutch Switch: Testing and Inspection Clutch Switch Signal Circuit Troubleshooting 1. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 2. Measure voltage between ECM connector terminals B14 and B20. Is there approx. 5 V? YES - Go to step 3. NO - Go to step 5. 3. Press the clutch pedal. 4. Measure voltage between ECM connector terminals B14 and B20. Is voltage less than 1.0 V? YES - Clutch switch signal is OK. NO - Go to step 12. 5. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 6. Disconnect the clutch switch 2P connector. 7. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 8. Measure voltage between ECM connector terminals B14 and B20. Is there approx. 5 V? Page 3280 Wire Color Abbreviations Page 6356 Multiple Junction Connector: Service and Repair Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 8286 Wire Color Coding Distinct Of Circuit By Wire Base Color All wires have color-coded insulation. Wires belonging to a system's main harness will have a single color. Wires belonging to a system's sub-circuits will have a colored stripe. Striped wires use the codes found in the chart to show wire size and colors. Abbreviations are used to indicate wire color within a circuit diagram. Wire Color Abbreviations The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics: WHT................................... White YEL................................... Yellow BLK................................... Black BLU................................... Blue GRN................................... Green RED................................... Red ORN................................... Orange PNK................................... Pink BRN................................... Brown GRY................................... Gray PUR................................... Purple LT BLU................................... Light Blue LT GRN................................... Light Green The wire insulation has one color or one color with another color stripe. The second color is the stripe. How to Identify Connector Terminals How to Identify Connector Terminals Page 6761 6. Test-drive the vehicle to make sure it no longer pulls. If the steering wheel is now off-center by more than 2 mm, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE C. 7. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC. NOTE: Enter each reading in decimal degrees. Example 30' = 0.50. REPAIR PROCEDURE C 1. Make sure the steering wheel is centered. ^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the right until it stops. ^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left, and count the number of revolutions until it stops. ^ Divide the number of revolutions in half, and turn the steering wheel until it is centered. For example, if it takes four revolutions of the steering wheel to go from lock to lock, then two turns is centered. ^ If the steering wheel is off-center by a large amount (20 mm or more), it may not be centered on the steering column shaft. Reinstall the steering wheel before going to step 2. 2. Place the vehicle on a lift, turn the steering wheel until it is centered, and then raise the vehicle. 3. Adjust the tie-rods. Use your measurements from question 13 of the test-drive to make your adjustment. Page 9229 Fuel Gauge Sender: Locations Fuel Supply System - Component Location Index Page 1687 Oil Filter: Service and Repair Replacement Special Tools Required Oil filter wrench 07HAA-PJ70100 1. Remove the splash shields. 2. Remove the oil filter with the special oil filter wrench. 3. Inspect the threads (A) and rubber seal (B) on the new filter. Wipe off the seat on the engine block, then apply a light coat of oil to the filter rubber seal. Use only filters with a built-in bypass system. 4. Install the oil filter by hand. 5. After the rubber seal seats, tighten the oil filter clockwise with the special tool. Tighten: 3/4 turn clockwise. Tightening torque: 12 Nm (1.2 kgf-cm, 8.7 ft. lbs.) 6. If four marks (v to vvvv) are printed around the outside of the filter, use the following procedure to tighten the filter. ^ Spin the filter on until its seal lightly seats against the engine oil cooler, and note which number is at the bottom. ^ Tighten the filter by turning it clockwise three marks from the one you noted. For example, if the v Mark is at the bottom when the seal is seated, tighten the filter until the center of the vvvv mark comes around to the bottom. 7. After installation, fill the engine with oil up to the specified level, run the engine for more than three minutes, then check for oil leakage. Page 7863 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 1434 50. Neutral Position Switch (M/T) Page 6859 Steering Control Module: Service and Repair EPS Control Unit Removal/Installation 1. Write down the frequencies for the radio preset buttons. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. 2. Remove the right kick panel. 3. Remove the EPS control unit and the power relay. 4. Disconnect the EPS control unit connectors and power relay connector. 5. Install the EPS control unit in the reverse order of removal. 6. Reconnect the battery cable and do the following: 1. Power window control unit reset procedure. 2. Reset the radio station presets. 3. Set the clock. Page 3138 DTC P0563 thru P0748 Page 4525 Connectors - "C" Page 1738 Engine Oil: Fluid Type Specifications New standard for engine oil, GF-4. See TSB SN050109 for Honda Service News 050109 for additional information. Engine Oil API Classification ................................................................................................................................. ..................................... SJ "Energy Conserving" oil. SAE Viscosity ................................................... .......................................................................................................................................................... 0W-20 Locations Power Steering Relay: Locations Relay And Control Unit Locations - Dashboard 74. Under Right Side of Kick Panel Page 4402 84. Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor Page 5002 Diodes How to Identify Wiring Color-Coded Insulation Wire Color Page 2505 Heater Core: Service and Repair Heater Unit/Core Replacement SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations, precautions, and procedures before performing repair or service. 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. 2. From under the hood, open the cable clamp (A), then disconnect the heater valve cable (B) from the heater valve arm (C). Turn the heater valve arm to the fully opened position as shown. 3. When the engine is cool, drain the engine coolant from the radiator. 4. Remove the mounting bolt from the heater valve. Slide the hose clamps (A) back, then disconnect the inlet heater hose (B) and the outlet heater hose (C) from the heater unit. Engine coolant will run out when the hoses are disconnected; drain it into a clean drip pan. Be sure not to let coolant spill on the electrical parts or the painted surfaces. If any coolant spills, rinse it off immediately. Page 518 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. Page 4587 Page 4087 Oxygen Sensor: Service and Repair Secondary HO2S Replacement Secondary HO2S Replacement NOTE: When Secondary HO2S is replaced, Third HO2S must be replaced at the same time. ('02-03 M/T model only) 1. Disconnect the secondary HO2S 4P connector (A), and remove the secondary HO2S (B). 2. Install the secondary HO2S in the reverse order of removal. Page 653 Air Bag Control Module: Vehicle Damage Warnings SRS Unit Precautions - Be careful not to bump or impact the SRS unit whenever the ignition switch is ON (II), or for at least 3 minutes after the ignition switch is turned OFF. - During installation or replacement, be careful not to bump (by impact wrench, hammer, etc.) the area around the SRS unit. The airbags could accidentally deploy and cause damage or injury. - After a collision in which the airbags were deployed, replace the SRS unit. After a collision in which the airbags were not deployed, inspect for any damage or any deformation on the SRS unit. If there is any damage, replace the SRS unit. - Do not disassemble the SRS unit. - Turn the ignition switch OFF, disconnect the battery negative cable and wait at least 3 minutes before beginning installation or replacement of the SRS unit, and disconnection of the 18P connector. - Be sure the SRS unit is installed securely with the mounting bolts torqued to 9.8 N.m (1.0 kgf.m, 7.2 lbf.ft). - Do not spill water or oil on the SRS unit, and keep it away from dust. - Store the SRS unit in a cool (less than 104 °F/40 °C) and dry (less than 80% relative humidity, no moisture) area. Page 1779 Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Service Precautions Wiring Precautions Wiring Precautions SRS wiring can be identified by special yellow outer covering (except the SRS indicator light circuit). Never attempt to modify, splice, or repair SRS wiring. If there is an open or damage in SRS wiring, replace the harness. Be sure to install the harness wires so that they are not pinched, or interfere with other parts. Make sure all SRS ground locations are clean, and grounds are securely fastened for optimum metal-to-metal contact. Poor grounding can cause intermittent problems that are difficult to diagnose. Page 3440 Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor: Description and Operation Fuel Tank Pressure (FTP) Sensor The FTP sensor converts fuel tank absolute pressure into an electrical input to the ECM. Locations 113. Below Left Side of Cargo Area Page 5439 Shift Cable: Service and Repair Shift Cable Replacement 1. Remove the front console. 2. Shift the transmission into the [R] position. 3. Remove the nut securing the shift cable end, then separate the cable end from the shift lever. 4. Rotate the socket holder (A) on the shift cable (B) a quarter turn; the projection (C) on the socket holder faces direction to remove. Then slide the holder to remove the shift cable from the shift cable bracket base (D). 5. Remove the shift cable bracket (A) in the cabin, under the dash. 6. Remove the air cleaner housing. Page 4262 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. Page 379 DTC P0979 thru P1193 Page 31 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: Page 6086 3. Remove the battery module switch cover (two bolts), then remove the locking cover from the switch. 4. Flip the battery module switch to OFF, then reinstall the locking cover. 5. Wait at least 5 minutes for the capacitors in the system to discharge. 6. Remove the rear clips from the middle bulkhead carpet. Locations 2. Right Front Side of Engine Compartment Page 9777 Wire Color Coding Distinct Of Circuit By Wire Base Color All wires have color-coded insulation. Wires belonging to a system's main harness will have a single color. Wires belonging to a system's sub-circuits will have a colored stripe. Striped wires use the codes found in the chart to show wire size and colors. Abbreviations are used to indicate wire color within a circuit diagram. Wire Color Abbreviations The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics: WHT................................... White YEL................................... Yellow BLK................................... Black BLU................................... Blue GRN................................... Green RED................................... Red ORN................................... Orange PNK................................... Pink BRN................................... Brown GRY................................... Gray PUR................................... Purple LT BLU................................... Light Blue LT GRN................................... Light Green The wire insulation has one color or one color with another color stripe. The second color is the stripe. How to Identify Connector Terminals How to Identify Connector Terminals Page 1827 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 2038 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 7142 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 4977 Fuel Pump Relay: Description and Operation PGM-FI Main Relay The PGM-FI main relay contains two separate relays. One is energized whenever the ignition is on which supplies battery voltage to the ECM, power to the fuel injectors, and power for the fuel cut relay. The fuel cut relay is energized to supply power to the fuel pump for 2 seconds when the ignition is switched ON (II), and when the engine is running. Page 9450 176. High Mount Brake Light Page 3096 Page 9617 5. Door Switch, Driver's Or Passenger's Page 9458 Wires Locations 6. Front of Engine Page 1641 5. If spark plugs need to be replaced, select the spark plugs according to the designation on the cylinder head and the table shown. 6. Apply a small quantity of anti-seize compound to the plug threads, and screw the plugs into the cylinder head finger-tight. The torque them to 23 N.m (2.3 kgf.m,17 lbf.ft). NOTE: If a spark plug is to be reused, use it in the cylinder where the plug was originally located. Page 7269 Wires Page 9562 First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 10362 111. Rear Window Defogger, Fuel Cut, Radiator Fan Main (Climate Control) And Intermittent Wiper Relays Page 70 43. Under Left Side of Dash (Honda Accessory) Locations 36. Left Side of Dash Page 9515 All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416 etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector or by a capital letter (A, B, C etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Connector Views that shows the connector terminals wire colors connector cavity numbers and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints shown on diagram [8] . Except for the DLC (data link connector) disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554 for example means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Page 381 DTC P1486 thru P1585 Page 2587 Muffler: Service and Repair Exhaust Pipe and Muffler Replacement Page 5524 8. Adjust the length of the driveshafts to the figure, then adjust the boots to halfway between full compression and full extension. Make sure the ends of the boots seat in the grooves of the driveshaft and joint. 9. Position the dynamic damper as shown (for right driveshaft). 10. Fit the boot ends onto the driveshaft and the inboard joint, then install the band (A) onto the boot (B). 11. Pull up the slack in the band by hand. Page 8605 Seat Cover: Service and Repair Seat Cover Replacement NOTE: - Take care not to tear the seams or damage the seat covers. - Put on gloves to protect your hands. 1. Remove the seat, and remove the seat-back or seat cushion pad and cover. 2. Remove the seat cover as shown Page 9050 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Page 39 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Page 8839 Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Service Precautions Precautions For Electrical Inspections Precautions For Electrical Inspections When using electrical test equipment, insert the probe of the tester into the wire side of the connector. Do not insert the probe of the tester into the terminal side of the connector, and do not tamper with the connector. Use a U-shaped probe. Do not insert the probe forcibly. Use specified service connectors in troubleshooting. Using improper tools could cause an error in inspection due to poor metal-to-metal contact. Page 158 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 923 Oil Pressure Sender: Testing and Inspection Test 1. Remove the oil pressure switch connector (A) from the engine oil pressure switch (B). 2. Check for continuity between the engine oil pressure switch and the engine (ground). There should be continuity with the engine stopped. There should be no continuity with the engine running. 3. If the switch fails to operate, check the engine oil level. If the engine oil level is OK, check the engine oil pressure. Campaign - Integrated Motor Assist Controller Update Technical Service Bulletin # 01-102 Date: 011127 Campaign - Integrated Motor Assist Controller Update 01-102 November 27, 2001 Applies To: 2000-01 Insight with M/T - See VEHICLES AFFECTED Product Update: IMA Controller Modification BACKGROUND The IMA (Integrated Motor Assist) system supplies power to various 12-volt loads on the vehicle (lights, radio, windows, etc.) and assists the engine to improve vehicle performance. In very cold weather, power demands on the IMA battery module can exceed output, causing permanent damage to the battery module. VEHICLES AFFECTED Not all 2000-01 Insights with M/T are affected by this product update. Only vehicles that are registered and normally driven in cold weather areas are affected. Before you begin, verify that the vehicle is registered in one of the states affected by the update (see the map). Then check for vehicle eligibility by doing one of the following. ^ Verify that the customer has a notification letter. ^ Check the vehicle's VIN on your campaign responsibility report. ^ Do a VIN status inquiry on DCS. CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION All owners of affected vehicles will be sent a notification of this product update. An example of the customer notification. CORRECTIVE ACTION Replace the battery condition monitor (BCM) module and the motor control module (MCM). PARTS INFORMATION Page 2326 Diodes How to Identify Wiring Color-Coded Insulation Wire Color Page 2016 Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow from power at the top of the diagram to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another for example is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors Page 8387 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Page 6392 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Service and Repair Air Cleaner Element Replacement Page 9356 - Taillight relay Page 9711 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: Page 6484 Auxiliary Power Outlet: Diagnostic Aids Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Campaign - ECM Update Engine Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins Campaign - ECM Update 00-042 April 5, 2000 Applies To: 2000 Insight - From VIN JHMZE1...YT000001 thru JHMZE1...YT000440 Product Update: Insight ECM BACKGROUND The engine may not start it the ambient temperature is below 0°F (-20°C). CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION All owners of affected vehicles will be mailed a notification of this campaign. An example of a customer notification is shown. CORRECTIVE ACTION Replace the ECM (engine control module) with an improved unit. After the ECM replacement, the immobilizer system must be reinitialized. Make sure you have all the customer's keys. Page 8813 In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locater) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: - Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. Emissions - OBD II DTC's And Associated Monitors Engine Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins Emissions - OBD II DTC's And Associated Monitors 03-020 April 2, 2010 Applies To: All OBD II-equipped models except Passport OBD II DTCs and Their Associated Monitors (Supersedes 03-020, dated March 29, 2003, to revise the information marked by the black bars and asterisks) *REVISION SUMMARY Numerous DTCs were added. Refer to the list for details.* Following is a list of all OBD II DTCs and their associated monitors for all Honda automobiles with OBD II. No one model has every DTC in the list. DTC P0AA6 thru P0A9E Page 1709 - Always use Honda All Season Antifreeze/Coolant Type 2 (P/N OL999-9001). Using a non-Honda coolant can result in corrosion, causing the cooling system to malfunction or fail. - Honda All Season Antifreeze/Coolant Type 2 is a mixture of 50% antifreeze and 50% water. Premixing is not required. Engine Coolant Refill Capacity [including reservoir capacity of 0.4 L (0.4 US qt.): 2.5 L (2.6 US qt.) 10. Tighten the bleed bolt as soon as coolant starts to run out in a steady stream. 11. Pour Honda All Season Antifreeze/Coolant Type 2 into the radiator to the bottom of the filler neck, and install the radiator cap. 12. Remove the cap (A) from the water outlet, then install an 8 mm hose (B) and a funnel (C). 13. Pour Honda All Season Antifreeze/Coolant Type 2 into the funnel until the coolant level reaches the base of the funnel, then start the engine and let it idle. 14. Add Honda All Season Antifreeze/Coolant Type 2 into the funnel as the level goes down. 15. Stop the engine, then remove the funnel and the 8 mm hose from the water outlet. Install the cap. 16. Start the engine, and let it run until warmed up (radiator fan comes on at least twice). Then, turn off the engine, and let it cool down. 17. If necessary, add more Honda All Season Antifreeze/Coolant Type 2 into the radiator up to the base of the filler neck and into the reservoir up to the MAX mark. Page 8219 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: - Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest OHMS" range. Page 598 Splices Components Ground - "G" Page 4219 DTC P2240 thru U0073 Page 6921 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the secondary locks. PGM-FI Main Relay Circuit Troubleshooting Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Testing and Inspection PGM-FI Main Relay Circuit Troubleshooting PGM-FI Main Relay Circuit Troubleshooting 1. Turn the ignition switch OFF, then disconnect the PGM-FI main relay connectors. 2. Check for continuity between body ground and PGM-FI main relay diode 2P connector terminal No.2. Is there continuity? YES - Go to step 3. NO - Repair open in the wire between the PGM-FI main relay and G101. 3. Measure voltage between body ground and PGM-FI main relay (IGP) 4P connector terminal No.2. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 5. NO - Go to step 4. 4. Check for a blown No.7 (15 A) fuse in the underhood fuse/relay box. Is the fuse blown? YES - Repair the short in the wire between the PGM-FI main relay and the No.7 (15 A) fuse. NO - Repair the open in the wire between the PGM-FI main relay and the No.7 (15 A) fuse. Page 7087 15. Press the wheel bearing inner race (A) out of the hub (B) using the special tool, a commercially available bearing separator (C), and a press. 16. Remove the splash guard (A) from the knuckle (B). 17. Remove the flange bolts (A), and remove the hub bearing unit (B) from the knuckle. 18. Wash the knuckle and hub thoroughly in high flash point solvent before reassembly. Page 3175 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: - Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest OHMS" range. Page 3914 Engine Control Module: Service and Repair Updating the ECM/PCM How To Substitute The ECM For Tosting Purposes-'00-01 M/T Models Use this procedure if you need a known-good ECM to test a vehicle. It allows you to swap a ECM from a "donor" vehicle without having to program it to the test vehicle's ignition key. 1. Cut a temporary ignition key for the test vehicle with a non-immobilizer key blank. 2. Remove the ECM from the test vehicle. 3. Write the test vehicle's VIN on the ECM you just removed to avoid confusing it with the donor vehicle's ECM. 4. Remove the known-good ECM from the donor vehicle, and install it in the test vehicle. 5. Tape the donor vehicle's ignition key head-to-head to the test vehicle's temporary key (A). The ECM will recognize the code from the donor vehicle's key (B) and allow you to start the engine with the temporary key. 6. After completing your tests, reinstall both ECMs, and destroy the temporary key. Page 9810 ERROR: stackunderflow OFFENDING COMMAND: ~ STACK: Page 1977 Wire Color Coding Distinct Of Circuit By Wire Base Color All wires have color-coded insulation. Wires belonging to a system's main harness will have a single color. Wires belonging to a system's sub-circuits will have a colored stripe. Striped wires use the codes found in the chart to show wire size and colors. Abbreviations are used to indicate wire color within a circuit diagram. Wire Color Abbreviations The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics: WHT................................... White YEL................................... Yellow BLK................................... Black BLU................................... Blue GRN................................... Green RED................................... Red ORN................................... Orange PNK................................... Pink BRN................................... Brown GRY................................... Gray PUR................................... Purple LT BLU................................... Light Blue LT GRN................................... Light Green The wire insulation has one color or one color with another color stripe. The second color is the stripe. How to Identify Connector Terminals How to Identify Connector Terminals Page 9816 Splices Components Ground - "G" Page 9570 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. Page 7770 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. Page 1943 6. Remove the brake disc retaining flat screws (A). 7. Screw two 8 x 1.25 mm bolts (B) into the disc to push it away from the hub. Turn each bolt two turns at a time to prevent cocking the disc excessively. 8. Remove the flange bolts (A) and wheel sensor (B) from the knuckle. Do not disconnect the wheel sensor connector. 9. Turn the front of the knuckle outward. Tap the driveshaft (A) inward with a plastic hammer to allow space to install the special tool on the lower arm ball joint. Page 4487 Cavity Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity / terminal shown is # 6. Circuit Schematics Diagrams Page 4685 Diodes How to Identify Wiring Color-Coded Insulation Wire Color Page 9745 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 3977 Cavity Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity / terminal shown is # 6. Circuit Schematics Page 4731 Fuel Pressure: Service Precautions WARNING: Adhere to the following procedures any time the fuel system is being worked on in order to reduce the risk of fire and personal injury: - Keep a dry chemical (Class B) fire extinguisher near the work area. - Place a "CAUTION FLAMMABLE" sign in the work area. - Work in a well-ventilated area. Do not smoke, and keep sparks and open flames away. - Wear eye protection. - Use caution when working near the catalytic converter to prevent the possibility of burns or fire. (The temperatures within the converter can exceed 537 °C (1000 °F). - Relieve the fuel system pressure prior to disconnecting fuel system components. - Disconnect the negative battery cable except for tests where battery voltage is required. - Use a suitable container to store or catch fuel. - Do not replace fuel pipe with fuel hose. - Plug all disconnected fuel line fittings and hoses. - After making any fuel system repairs ALWAYS inspect for fuel leaks. Locations 23. Left Rear of Engine Compartment Page 4118 18. Remove the EPS fuse from the under-hood fusel relay box. 19. With the transmission in neutral and the clutch released, run the engine at 3,500 rpm until the battery level indicator shows at least 50 percent charge. 20. Turn off the engine, then install the EPS fuse. 21. Enter the radio station presets, and set the clock. 22. Center-punch a completion mark above the sixth character of the engine compartment VIN. Locations Safing Sensor: Locations The safing sensor is located inside the SRS Unit, refer to SRS Unit / Service and Repair. Emissions - OBD II DTC's And Associated Monitors Engine Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins Emissions - OBD II DTC's And Associated Monitors 03-020 April 2, 2010 Applies To: All OBD II-equipped models except Passport OBD II DTCs and Their Associated Monitors (Supersedes 03-020, dated March 29, 2003, to revise the information marked by the black bars and asterisks) *REVISION SUMMARY Numerous DTCs were added. Refer to the list for details.* Following is a list of all OBD II DTCs and their associated monitors for all Honda automobiles with OBD II. No one model has every DTC in the list. DTC P0AA6 thru P0A9E Page 1570 12. Test-drive your customer¡C■s vehicle on the same road you used earlier. - If the drift is now within spec, swap the tires back to the donor vehicle one at a time, and test-drive your customer¡C■s vehicle on the same road you used earlier. Do this until the drift comes back. Replace the bad tire(s), then return the vehicle to your customer. - If the drift is still out of spec using the donor vehicle tires, contact Tech Line for further action. Page 3205 ECM/PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector A (32P) Part 2 Hybrid System - IMA Indicator ON/DTC's P1447/P1449 Engine Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins Emissions - OBD II DTC's And Associated Monitors 03-020 April 2, 2010 Applies To: All OBD II-equipped models except Passport OBD II DTCs and Their Associated Monitors (Supersedes 03-020, dated March 29, 2003, to revise the information marked by the black bars and asterisks) *REVISION SUMMARY Numerous DTCs were added. Refer to the list for details.* Following is a list of all OBD II DTCs and their associated monitors for all Honda automobiles with OBD II. No one model has every DTC in the list. DTC P0AA6 thru P0A9E Page 1874 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 10172 Heated Glass Element Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relay Test Normally-open type A: 1. Turn the battery module switch OFF, and measure the voltage. 2. Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is disconnected. A/C compressor clutch relay - Air fuel ratio sensor relay - Condenser fan relay - Daytime running lights relay (Canada) - Headlight relay 1 - Headlight relay 2 - High speed battery module fan control relay - High speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - High voltage conductor control relay - Horn relay - Ignition hold relay - Low speed battery module fan control relay - Low speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - Power window relay - Radiator fan relay - Rear window defogger relay - Reverse relay - Starter cut relay Page 715 101. EPS Motor Relay Page 6384 In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locater) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: - Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. Page 9600 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. Page 8809 Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow from power at the top of the diagram to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another for example is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors Page 2706 6. Remove the right trunk shelf support (five clips and two bolts). 7. Remove the six mid-frame cover bolts. Remove the intelligent power unit (IPU) lid (17 bolts). 8. Measure the voltage at the junction board terminals. There should be 30 V or less. If you read more than 30 V, there is a problem in the circuit; do the DTC troubleshooting first. 9. Look at the part number on the motor control module (MCM), and refer to this chart. If there is a replacement part number listed for it, you need to order a replacement MCM. 10. Look at the part number on the battery condition monitor (BCM). If the part number is not 1K100-PHM-A01, you need to order a replacement BCM. Page 4640 2. Remove the sealing nut from the fuel rail. Attach the fuel pressure adapter nut, 12 mm (A) and the fuel pressure gauge (B). Remove the vacuum hose (C) from the fuel pulsation damper (D), and pinch off the hose with a clamp (E). 3. Start the engine and let it idle. - If the engine starts, go to step 5. - If the engine does not start, go to step 4. 4. See if the fuel pump is running: listen to the fuel fill port with the fuel fill cap removed. The fuel pump should run for 2 seconds when the ignition switch is first turned on. If the pump runs, go to step 5. - If the fuel pump does not run, perform the fuel pump circuit troubleshooting. 5. Read the pressure gauge. The pressure should be 270 - 320 kPa (2.8 - 3.3 kgf/sq.cm, 40 - 47 psi) - If the pressure is OK, the test is complete. - If the pressure is out of specification, replace the fuel pressure regulator and the fuel filter, and recheck the fuel pressure. 6. Remove the pressure gauge, and reinstall the sealing nut with a new washer. Tighten the sealing nut to 22 N.m (2.2 kgf.m, 16 lbf.ft). NOTE: Disassemble and clean the fuel pressure gauge attachment thoroughly after use. Page 5720 Transmission Mode Switch: Service and Repair Mode Switch Replacement 1. Remove the screws securing the mode switch, then remove the switch. 2. Disconnect the connector from the switch. 3. Install the new mode switch. Page 2659 1. Remove the switch cover from the IPU lid, then turn the switch OFF. 2. Wait at least 5 minutes. 3. Remove the IPU lid. 4. Measure voltage at the output terminals. Make sure the voltage is low enough for safe operation before any service is done to the car. Contactors The high voltage contactor and bypass contactor are connected at the positive (+) output side of battery module. These contactors are controlled by the MCM, connecting the battery to the high voltage circuits. The current flows through the bypass contactor and bypass resistor first, protecting the system from current spikes. Page 9904 Turn Signal Relay: Testing and Inspection 1. Remove the turn signal/hazard relay (A) from the under-dash fuse/relay box (B). 2. Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are all making good contact. - If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system. - If the terminals look OK, make the following input tests at the fuse/relay box socket. - If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system. - If all the input tests prove Ok, the turn signal/hazard relay must be faulty; replace it. Page 6264 Auxiliary Power Outlet: Testing and Inspection Test/Replacement 1. Remove the center lower cover. 2. Disconnect the 2P connector (A). 3. Inspect the connector terminals to be sure they are all making good contact. - If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system. - If the terminals look OK, go to step 4. 4. Turn the ignition switch ACC (I), and check for voltage between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals. - There should be battery voltage. - If there is no battery voltage, check for: poor ground (G404). - an open in the wire. - blown No. 12 (10 A) in the under-dash fuse/relay box. 5. If the test proves OK, replace the socket (B). Page 7541 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Page 4305 Connectors - "C" Page 8558 NOTE: Take care not to let the heat lamp deform the bumper during the drying process. Dry the bumper primer thoroughly with an infrared dryer or other suitable method. Drying Time: 2. Filling /Sanding Apply putty to repair any holes or deep gouges. Apply the putty on the damaged area in 2-3 steps. - Glue aluminum tape on the outside of the bumper, and apply putty from the other side of the bumper. - Remove the aluminum tape after the putty dries, apply putty from the outside, and fill the hole. Use a special polyester putty (Reference) and a putty knife. 3. Sanding Sand the surface evenly, particularly at the area where the PP material and putty meet. Use a flexible block and #240-#400-#600 sandpaper. 4. Air blowing /degreasing Use alcohol, a tack cloth, and wax and grease remover. 5. Spraying primer surfacer NOTE: Spray the bumper primer on the area where the PP material was exposed and the around the putty. - Spray the primer surface wider then the putty and painted surfaces of bumper primer. - Spray 2-3 coats to get 20-30 microns of thickness. Page 4273 ECM Inputs And Outputs At Connector C (31P) Part 2 Page 9341 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 69 38. Under Left Side of Dash 43. Under Left Side of Dash (Honda Accessory) Page 6144 7. Remove the under-cover (two bolts, two clips, and three screw clips). 8. Remove the IPU (intelligent power unit) lid (six Torx bolts and 17 hex bolts). 9. Measure voltage at the junction board terminals. ^ If the reading is 30 V or less, the capacitors are discharged enough for you to continue; go to step 10. ^ If the reading is more than 30 V, there is a problem with the IMA system. Troubleshoot the system using the IMA section of the service manual, then continue with this procedure. 10. Lift out the battery module foam insert. Page 6757 DIAGNOSTIC WORKSHEET REPAIR PROCEDURE A Page 1072 5. Door Switch, Driver's Or Passenger's Page 6418 39. Upper Left Kick Panel Area Page 4550 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. Page 10081 Page 3235 Diodes How to Identify Wiring Color-Coded Insulation Wire Color Page 7907 Programming the Transmitter NOTES: ^ The system accepts up to four transmitters. ^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all the transmitters once you're in the programming mode. 1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 2. Press and hold the Valet-Disarm button on the radio (between the AM/FM and CD/TAPE buttons) to enter the programming mode. (Continue to hold the button during this procedure, or programming will be cancelled.) Check that the power door locks cycle to confirm that you're in the programming mode. 3. Within 5 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the transmitter. Check that the power door locks cycle to confirm that the code was accepted. 4. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each of the remaining transmitters. 5. After all the transmitters have been programmed, release the Valet-Disarm button to exit programming mode. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda using normal parts ordering procedures. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery. 99-04 Civic, 03-04 Accord, Element, Pilot 1999-00 Civic Value Package with factory-installed keyless entry system 1999-04 Civic EX with factory-installed keyless entry system or dealer-installed security system *1999-03 Civic (except EX) with dealer-installed keyless entry system or security system 2002-04 Civic Si with factory-installed keyless entry system or dealer-installed security system 2003-04 Civic Hybrid with factory-installed keyless entry system or dealer-installed security system 2004 Civic (except LX & EX) with dealer-installed keyless entry system or security system 2004 Civic LX with factory-installed keyless entry system or dealer-installed security system Page 9645 - Taillight relay Page 10075 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. Page 2056 Camshaft: Testing and Inspection Inspection NOTE: ^ Do not rotate the camshaft during inspection. ^ Remove the rocker arms and rocker shafts. Camshaft Bearing Torque And Sequence 1. Put the camshaft and the camshaft holders on the cylinder head, then tighten the bolts to the specified torque. Specified torque: 12 Nm (1.2 kgf-cm, 8.7 ft. lbs.) Apply engine oil to the bolt threads. 2. Seat the camshaft by pushing it toward the rear of the cylinder head. 3. Zero the dial indicator against the end of the camshaft. Push the camshaft back and forth and read the end play. Camshaft End Play: Standard (New): 0.05 - 0.15 mm (0.002 - 0.006 inch) Service Limit: 0.5 mm (0.02 inch) 4. Unscrew the camshaft holder bolts two turns at a time, in a crisscross pattern. Then remove the camshaft holders from the cylinder head. 5. Lift the camshaft out of the cylinder head, wipe it clean, then inspect the lift ramps. Replace the camshaft if any lobes are pitted, scored, or excessively worn. 6. Clean the camshaft journal surfaces in the cylinder head, then set the camshaft back in place. Place a plastigage strip across each journal. 7. Install the camshaft holders, then tighten the bolts to the specified torque as shown in step 1. Page 7859 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. Page 6528 Fuse: Connector Locations Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box Specifications Page 1824 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 2350 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Page 8456 1991-93 Accord 5-door EX with factory-installed keyless entry or dealer-installed security system Programming the Transmitter The transmitter is not programmable. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. To order a transmitter, you need the vehicle's VIN, the code number from the power door lock control unit, and the ignition key code number. The power door lock code number is a five-digit number etched into the plastic case of the control unit (mounted under the driver's seat). The ignition key code number is a four-digit number stamped on the metal shank of all five original keys delivered with the car. Replacement transmitters are manufactured to match the code of the keyless entry system. The new ignition key is cut to match the vehicle's ignition switch, front door locks, tailgate lock, and glove compartment lock. To order this transmitter, use the controlled parts ordering screen on the iN system. The transmitters are manufactured in Japan; delivery takes 4 to 6 weeks. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery is not replaceable. 91-93 Accord 5-Door LX 1991-93 Accord 5-door LX with dealer-installed security system Programming the Transmitter This transmitter is not programmable. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered directly from Kenwood USA only by authorized Honda dealers. Send a completed order form (copy it from the Accessory Replacement Parts section of the Dealer Parts Price List) along with a dealer check for $30.00 (payable to Kenwood U.S.A. Corp.) to this address: Kenwood Service Corp. P.O. Box 22745 Long Beach, CA 90501-5745 Page 1110 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. Specifications Locations 41. Under Left Side of Dash Page 4868 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 9239 - When connecting the wire harness, make sure the connection is secure and the connector (B) is firmly locked into place. - Do not fold over the lower part of the suction filter (C). - When installing the fuel gauge sending unit (A), make sure the connection is secure and the connector is firmly locked into place. Be careful not to bend or twist it excessively. Campaign - ECM Update for MIL ON/DTC P0420 Technical Service Bulletin # 07-038 Date: 071107 Campaign - ECM Update for MIL ON/DTC P0420 07-038 November 7, 2007 Applies To: 2000-01 Insight - ALL With M/T Product Update: MIL Comes On With DTC P0420 (Supersedes 07-038, MIL Comes On With DTC P0420, dated June 16, 2007, to update the information marked by the black bars and asterisks) *BACKGROUND The PGM-FI software can misinterpret sensor inputs as a deteriorated three-way catalytic converter. If this happens, the MIL comes on with DTC P0420 CFWC catalyst system efficiency below threshold). CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION Before this service bulletin became a product update (from June 16 thru November 6, 2007), some vehicles were repaired with ECM P/N 37820-PHM-355 or P/N 37820-PHM-326. Owners of these vehicles will receive a notification that their vehicles are already repaired and no further action is needed. All owners of vehicles still needing repair will be sent a notification of this product update. Both customer notifications will include reimbursement information for previously replaced catalytic converters. An example of each customer notification is at the end of this service bulletin. To verify vehicle eligibility, you must check for at least one of these items: ^ The customer has a notification letter. ^ The vehicle is shown as eligible on a VIN status inquiry. In addition, check for a punch mark below the first character of the engine compartment VIN. A punch mark in that location means this product update has already been completed.* CORRECTIVE ACTION Replace the ECM. PARTS INFORMATION *Engine Control Module (2000 Insight): P/N 37820-PHM-505, H/C 8813602 Engine Control Module (2001 Insight): P/N 37820-PHM-506, H/C 8813610* WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION REPAIR PROCEDURE NOTE: Page 558 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Description and Operation Seat Belt Buckle: Description and Operation Seat Belt and Seat Belt Buckle Tensioners The seat belt and seat belt buckle tensioners are linked with the SRS airbags to further increase the effectiveness of the seat belt. In a front-end collision, the tensioners instantly retract the belt and buckle firmly to secure the occupants in their seats. Page 2455 NO- Go to step 6. 5. Disconnect the jumper, and turn the ignition switch ON (II). Check for voltage between radiator fan relay 4P socket terminal No. 3 and body ground. Is there battery voltage? YES- Go to step 9. NO- Check for an open in the BLK/YEL wire between the under-hood fuse/relay box and the under-dash fuse/relay box. 6. Disconnect the radiator fan connector. 7. Check for continuity between radiator fan relay 4P socket terminal No. 2 and radiator fan 2P connector terminal No. 2. Is there continuity? YES- Go to step 8. NO- Repair an open in the BLU/BLK wire between the under-hood fuse/relay box and the radiator fan. 8. Check for continuity between radiator fan 2P connector terminal No. 1 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES- Replace the radiator fan motor. NO- Check for an open in the BLK wire between the radiator fan 2P connector and body ground. If the wire is OK, check for a poor ground at G301. 9. Reinstall the radiator fan relay. Description and Operation Hybrid Battery Service Switch: Description and Operation Battery Module Switch The battery module switch is connected in series to the battery module fuse. Always turn the battery module switch to the OFF position whenever service or checks are required on or around the high voltage circuits. Follow these steps exactly: 1. Remove the switch cover from the IPU lid, then turn the switch OFF. 2. Wait at least 5 minutes. 3. Remove the IPU lid. 4. Measure voltage at the output terminals. Make sure the voltage is low enough for safe operation before any service is done to the car. Page 8540 Paint: Service Precautions General Safety Precaution - Most paints contain substances that are harmful if inhaled or swallowed. - The fallowing precautions are important items in order to maintain safe painting work. 1. Wear an approved respirator, eye protection when painting. 2. Wear approved gloves, appropriate clothing when painting. Avoid contact with skin. 3. Spray paint only in a well ventilated area. 4. Read the paint label before opening the container. Cover spilled paint with sand, or wipe it up at once. 5. If paint gets in your mouth or your skin, rinse or wash thoroughly with water. If paint gets in your eyes, flush with water and get prompt medical attention. 6. After the painting work is finished, wash face and gargle With water. 7. Paint is flammable. Store it in a safe place, and keep it away from sparks, flames, or cigarette. Page 3628 169. BCM Module Page 10316 Windshield Washer Switch: Testing and Inspection Wiper/Washer Switch Test/Replacement 1. Remove the steering column covers. 2. Disconnect the 14P connector (B) from the wiper/washer switch (A). 3. Remove the two screws, then pull out the switch. 4. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table. If the continuity is not as specified, replace the switch. Page 7377 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. Page 9369 Wires Page 1921 5. Lower the vehicle onto the stands. Page 5848 6. Remove the brake disc retaining flat screws (A). 7. Screw two 8 x 1.25 mm bolts (B) into the disc to push it away from the hub. Turn each bolt two turns at a time to prevent cocking the disc excessively. 8. Remove the flange bolts (A) and wheel sensor (B) from the knuckle. Do not disconnect the wheel sensor connector. 9. Turn the front of the knuckle outward. Tap the driveshaft (A) inward with a plastic hammer to allow space to install the special tool on the lower arm ball joint. Page 7975 5. Click Warranty Audio Order to view the Warranty Audio Order form. 6. Enter the VIN and the mileage, then click the Submit button to view the Warranty Audio Order form. Use the completed Audio/Navigation/RES Worksheet to help you answer the questions on the Warranty Audio Order form. Questions with a red asterisk (*) are required fields that you must answer to submit the form. Make sure the information is complete (17-digit VIN, etc.). This information is critical to the remanufacturing process. Screen # 2 of the form contains the problem description, condition information, and shared functions. Fill this section out with as much information as possible. Select one part number from the list provided, then click Submit. It is your responsibility to ensure the correct part number is selected based on color and application information. Page 7536 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. Page 1883 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Page 10013 In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locater) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: - Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. Page 5502 10. Remove the ATF strainer (D). 11. Remove the lower valve body assembly (E), and remove the bolt (F) securing the solenoid harness connector (G) with holding the lower valve body assembly, then remove the harness connector and valve body assembly. 12. Replace the lower valve body assembly, and install it in the reverse order of removal. 13. Check the solenoid harness connector for rust, dirt, or oil, then connect the connector securely 14. Refill the transmission with ATF. 15. Install the engine under cover and the air cleaner housing. 16. Calibrate the start clutch control system. Page 2613 Answer: Refer to the images below for the proper location of the serial number. Question: How do I obtain pricing or parts availability on remanufactured IMA batteries? Page 3669 Cylinder Identification Sensor: Diagrams TDC Sensor #1 TDC Sensor #2 Page 3987 First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 7976 NOTE: Once you submit your order, you can track it using the Warranty Audio VIN Inquiry screen on the iN. For details, go to WARRANTY AUDIO ORDER PROGRAM FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS in this service bulletin. 7. You will receive a remanufactured audio/navigation/RES unit packed in a reusable shipping box. Save this box and the packing materials. You must return the failed audio/navigation/RES unit core in this box. Otherwise your dealership risks being billed a core loss charge, ranging from $800 to $2,500, depending on the unit. 8. Remove the failed audio/navigation/RES unit: ^ Refer to the appropriate component section of the service manual or, ^ Online, enter a keyword: AUDIO, NAVIGATION, or RES. Select the appropriate removal procedure from the list. 9. Install the remanufactured audio/navigation/RES unit: ^ Refer to the appropriate component section of the service manual or ^ Online, enter a keyword: AUDIO, NAVIGATION, or RES. Select the appropriate installation procedure from the list. 10. If the remanufactured unit has a shipping cover and shipping screws, make sure you transfer them to the faulty unit being returned. Also be sure to transfer all of the mounting brackets to the replacement unit. Failure to do this may result in dash squeaks and rattles. NOTE: If the customer's media (CD, CD magazine, DVD, DVD-A, cassette tape, etc.) is stuck in the unit, leave it there for these reasons: ^ The manufacturer needs it for diagnosis and testing. ^ Any failed audio/navigation/RES unit core that is returned disassembled is considered an unusable core. Customer media (CDs, CD magazines, DVDs, DVD-As, cassette tapes, etc.) will be properly removed by the supplier at the point of tear down and inspection of the failed unit, and mailed to your dealer. Make sure the failed audio/navigation/RES unit core is not disassembled! If the core is disassembled, your dealership will be debited a core loss charge ranging from $800 to $2,500, depending on the unit. 11. Put the failed audio/navigation/RES unit core in the same box that the remanufactured unit came in. NOTE: If you do not return the failed audio/navigation/RES unit core in this same box, your warranty claim will be debited and the core will be sent back to your dealership. Parts Manager: 12. The Warranty Audio/Navigation/RES Unit Order form you submitted is kept on the iN for 60 days. Print out a copy to put in the box with your core return: ^ From the iN main menu, click on SERVICE. ^ Click on Transactions. ^ Click on Advanced Search, and enter a date range. ^ Click on Filtered by Service. ^ Under Transaction Description, click on Warranty Audio Order, then go back to the top of the page and click on Search. ^ Scroll down to the appropriate VIN, then select it to view the form. ^ Review the form, then print out a copy by clicking on the printer icon. 13. Print out a copy of the Core Return Update Acknowledgement to put in the box with your core return: ^ From the iN main menu, click on PARTS. Page 4488 Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow from power at the top of the diagram to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another for example is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors Service and Repair Repairs and Inspections Required After a Collision: Service and Repair REPAIRS AND INSPECTIONS REQUIRED AFTER A COLLISION NOTE: Before doing any SRS repairs, use the HDS SRS menu method to check for DTCs; refer to the DTC Troubleshooting Index. After a collision where the airbag(s) deployed, replace these items: - SRS unit - Deployed airbag(s) - Seat belt tensioners During the repair process, inspect these areas: - Inspect all the SRS wire harnesses. Replace, do not repair, any damaged harnesses. - Inspect the cable reel for heat damage. If there is any damage, replace the cable reel. After the vehicle is completely repaired, turn the ignition switch ON (II). If the SRS indicator comes on for about 6 seconds and then goes off, the SRS is OK. If the indicator does not function properly, use the HDS SRS Menu Method to read the DTC(s). If this does not retrieve any codes, use the HDS SCS menu method. If you still cannot retrieve a code, go to Symptom Troubleshooting. Page 247 Diodes How to Identify Wiring Color-Coded Insulation Wire Color Page 2206 Engine Oil: Service Precautions SAFETY PRECAUTIONS WARNING: Prolonged and repeated contact with used engine oil may cause skin cancer. Avoid prolonged and repeated contact with oils, particularly used engine oils. - Wear protective clothing, including impervious gloves where practicable. - Do not put oily rags in pockets. - Avoid contaminating clothes, particularly underpants, with oil. - Heavily soiled clothing and oil-impregnated footwear should not be worn. Overalls must be cleaned regularly. - First Aid treatment should be obtained immediately for open cuts and wounds. - Use barrier creams, applying them before each work period, to help the removal of oil from the skin. - Wash with soap and water to ensure all oil is removed (skin cleansers and nail brushes will help). Preparations containing lanolin replace the natural skin oils which have been removed. - Do not use gasoline, kerosine, diesel fuel, gas oil, thinner or solvents for cleaning skin. - If skin disorders develop, obtain medical advice without delay. - Where practicable, degrease components prior to handling. - Where there is a risk of eye contact, eye protection should be worn, for example, chemical goggles or face shields; in addition an eye wash facility should be provided. Page 8650 All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416 etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector or by a capital letter (A, B, C etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Connector Views that shows the connector terminals wire colors connector cavity numbers and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints shown on diagram [8] . Except for the DLC (data link connector) disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554 for example means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Locations 135. Under Right Side of Kick Panel (CVT) Component Locations 100. Left Front Side of Battery Module Page 9007 A battery voltage (B+) circuit which is only powered with the ignition switch in the ON, or START positions. Initiator The electrical component inside the air bag assembly which, when sufficient current flows, sets off the chemical reaction that inflates the air bag. "Initiator Assembly Resistance Test" Tests performed once each ignition cycle when no malfunctions are detected during "Turn-ON" or "Continuous Monitoring." This test checks for the correct SDM configuration for the vehicle, shorts to "Ignition 1 in the deployment loops, high resistance or opens in the "Driver Side High", "Driver Side Low", "Passenger Side High" and "Passenger Side Low" circuits and measures the resistance of the inflator assembly consisting of: 1. Initiators. 2. SRS coil assembly (driver side only). 3. Connectors and associated wiring. Normal Operating Voltage Range The voltage measured between the SDM "Ignition 1" terminals and "Ground" terminals is between 9 and 16 volts. Passenger Current Source An output of the SDM which applies current into the passenger air bag assembly circuit during the "Initiator Assembly Resistance Test". Passenger Air Bag Assembly An assembly located in the right side of the instrument panel consisting of an inflatable bag, an inflator and an initiator. Scan Tool An external computer used to read diagnostic information from on-board computers via the data link connector. SDM Sensing and Diagnostic Module which provides reserve energy to the deployment loops, deploys the air bags when required and performs diagnostic monitoring of all SRS components. Serial Data Information representing the status of the SRS. SRS Supplemental Restraint System. SRS Coil Assembly An assembly of two current-carrying coils in the driver deployment loop that allows the rotation of the steering wheel while maintaining the continuous contact of the driver deployment loop to the driver air bag assembly. SRS Wiring Harness The wires and connectors that electrically connect the components in the SRS. "Turn-ON" Test which the SDM performs on the SRS once during each ignition cycle immediately after "Ignition 1" voltage is applied to the SDM and before "Continuous Monitoring". Page 3248 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 5237 8. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). Move the shift lever through all gear positions, and check the transmission range switch synchronization with the A/T gear position indicator. 9. Check that the engine can start in the [P] and [N] positions, and cannot start in any other shift lever position. 10. Check that the back-up lights come on when the shift lever is in the [R] position. 11. Allow the wheels to rotate freely, then start the engine, and check the shift lever operation. Page 3140 DTC P0979 thru P1193 Page 5008 Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Diagnostic Aids Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Page 1057 First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 3329 Relay And Control Unit Locations - Dashboard Page 1301 Knock Sensor: Description and Operation Knock Sensor The knock control system adjusts the ignition timing to minimize knock. Page 3296 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. Page 6145 11. Remove the mid-frame, then remove the front and rear IPU braces from the junction board. 12. Disconnect the high-voltage cables from the output terminals on the junction board, and wrap them with insulating tape. 13. Remove the battery module air duct mounting bolt, then push the duct forward. 14. Remove the mounting bolts from the battery module. Disconnect the connectors and the Y condenser terminal. NOTE: After disconnection, temporarily secure the Y condenser harness on the junction board. 15. Set the battery module lifting tool on the module, and install the six knurled bolts. Specifications Wheels: Specifications Wheel Fasteners (Lug Nuts) 108 nm Page 9124 In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locater) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: - Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. Specifications Valve Clearance: Specifications Valves Clearance (cold) Intake ................................................................................................................................................... ................ 0.18 - 0.22 mm (0.007 - 0.009 inch) Exhaust ..................................................................... ........................................................................................... 0.21 - 0.25 mm (0.008 - 0.010 inch) Page 4299 51. Under Left Side of Dash Page 7805 - If the red light on the tool comes on, the airbag or seat belt tensioner is ready to be deployed. 10. Push the tool's deployment switch. The airbags and tensioners should deploy (deployment is both highly audible and visible: a loud noise and rapid inflation of the bag, followed by slow deflation). If the airbags deploy and the green light on the tool comes on, continue with this procedure. - If an airbag doesn't deploy, yet the green light comes ON, its igniter is defective. Go to Disposal of Damaged Components. - During deployment the airbag can become hot enough to burn you. Wait 30 minutes after deployment before touching the airbag. 11. Dispose of the complete airbag. No part of it can be reused. Place it in a sturdy plastic bag (A) and seal it securely. Page 1101 Diodes How to Identify Wiring Color-Coded Insulation Wire Color Page 4527 Terminals - "T" Shielding Switches Fuses Page 5018 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: Page 7183 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: - Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest OHMS" range. Page 4146 DTC P1586 thru P1678 Page 5026 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Page 6403 Relay Box: Connector Views 174. Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box Part 1 Page 2301 EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 263 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: Page 3890 172. ECM Page 5017 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 9869 40. Upper Left Kick Panel Area Page 9609 EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 2819 With the Accord Hybrid, there is a third situation in which the cables can be hot. 3. The ignition switch is on, the engine has been turned off by the Auto Idle Stop feature, and the air conditioner is on. In this case, the high-voltage battery module is sending current to the air conditioner compressor. The only condition common to all three situations in which the cables can be hot is that the ignition is on. Therefore: When the ignition switch is off, electric current cannot flow into the high-voltage cables. Potential Hazards Honda hybrids do not present any unusual hazards. The vehicles have performed well in standard crash tests, with no damage to high-voltage components in front, side, or rear impacts. Page 8796 Page 6810 125. EPS Torque Sensor Page 3168 PARTS INFORMATION Engine Control Module: P/N 06380-PHM-A00, H/C 6441117 WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Carefully remove the passenger's side door sill trim. 2. Remove the two carpet hold-down clips on the door sill. 3. Remove the carpet hold-down clip in the passenger's footwell under the glove box. Pull back the carpet. 4. Remove the ECM cover mounting nuts. 5. Pivot the lower edge of the ECM cover off the mounting studs. Lift the upper edge of the cover off the mounting studs, then pull the cover down and back so it clears the evaporator drain tube. 6. Remove the two bolts mounting the ECM to the cover. Disconnect the ECM connectors. 7. Install the new ECM in the reverse order of removal. 8. Reinstall the carpet and the door sill trim. Page 7760 Terminals - "T" Shielding Switches Fuses Page 7191 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: Page 7383 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Page 854 79. Brake Booster Vacuum Sensor Page 9320 Cavity Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity / terminal shown is # 6. Circuit Schematics Component Locations 105. Left Side of Battery Module Page 2089 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 9791 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 7518 Wire Color Coding Distinct Of Circuit By Wire Base Color All wires have color-coded insulation. Wires belonging to a system's main harness will have a single color. Wires belonging to a system's sub-circuits will have a colored stripe. Striped wires use the codes found in the chart to show wire size and colors. Abbreviations are used to indicate wire color within a circuit diagram. Wire Color Abbreviations The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics: WHT................................... White YEL................................... Yellow BLK................................... Black BLU................................... Blue GRN................................... Green RED................................... Red ORN................................... Orange PNK................................... Pink BRN................................... Brown GRY................................... Gray PUR................................... Purple LT BLU................................... Light Blue LT GRN................................... Light Green The wire insulation has one color or one color with another color stripe. The second color is the stripe. How to Identify Connector Terminals How to Identify Connector Terminals Page 10197 Power Window Switch: Testing and Inspection Master Switch Input Test Power Windows Master Switch Input Test NOTE: The power window control unit is built into the power window master switch, and it only controls the driver's window operations. 1. Remove the instrument panel. 2. Disconnect the 14P connector (A) from the master switch (B). 3. Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are all making good contact. - If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system. - If the terminals look OK, go to step 4. Page 4718 Fuel Line Coupler: Service Precautions Fuel Line/Quick-Connect Fittings Precaution The fuel tube/quick-connect fittings assembly connects the in-tank fuel pump to the fuel feed pipe and the fuel return pipe. When removing or installing the fuel pump and fuel tank, it is necessary to disconnect or connect the quick-connect fittings. Pay attention to following: - The fuel tubes (A) and quick-connect fittings (B) are not heat-resistant; be careful not to damage them during welding or other heat-generating procedures. - The fuel tubes and quick-connect fittings are not acid-proof; do not touch them with a shop towel which was used for wiping battery electrolyte. Replace them if they came into contact with electrolyte or something similar. - When connecting or disconnecting the fuel tubes and quick-connect fittings, be careful not to bend or twist them excessively. Replace them if damaged. A disconnected quick-connect fitting can be reconnected, but the retainer on the mating pipe cannot be reused once it has been removed from the pipe. Replace the retainer when - replacing the fuel tank. - replacing the fuel pump. - replacing the fuel filter. - replacing the fuel feed pipe. - replacing the fuel return pipe. - it has been removed from the pipe. - it is damaged. Page 5112 YES - Repair a short in the wire between the ignition coil and the ECM. NO - Go to step 7. 7. Connect the ECM 31P connector. 8. Measure the voltage at each ignition coil 3P connector terminal No. 1 with the ignition switch in START (III). Is there about 0.5 V? YES - Replace the ignition coil. NO - Repair an open in the wire between the ignition coil and the ECM. Page 3490 Variable Valve Timing Pressure Switch: Service and Repair VTEC Pressure Switch Replacement 1. Disconnect the VTEC pressure switch connector, then remove the VTEC pressure switch (A). 2. Install the VTEC pressure switch using a new O-ring (B). Page 7089 Wheel Bearing: Service and Repair Rear Hub Bearing Unit Replacement NOTICE: To avoid damage, do not strike aluminum parts with a metal hammer. If necessary, tap gently with a plastic tipped hammer. NOTE: Bolts and nuts with the [star] mark are special corrosion-resistant Dacro fasteners. Use the same type if replacement is necessary. 1. Raise the rear of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper location. 2. Remove the fender skirt. 3. Remove the center cap (A), wheel nuts (B), and rear wheel (C). Page 6428 Splices Components Ground - "G" Page 10304 122. Below Right Front Wheel Well Page 7982 Ramsey, NJ 07446 800-433-9657 (Visteon offers an open line of credit. Call their 800 number to establish an account.) NOTE: ^ The manufacturer will repair the unit and ship it back within 5-7 working days, via UPS ground prepaid or 2nd Day Air (whichever you requested). Do not forget to include the shipping cost in your dealership payment. Units damaged by misuse or mishandling cannot be shipped back within the usual 5-7 days. ^ Each manufacturer's guarantee for the repair differs. To confirm the repair guarantee, contact the manufacturer using the phone number listed above. 10. To check on the status of your repair order, call the manufacturer. If your customer has any further questions or concerns, have them call Automobile Customer Service at 800-999-1009. NOTE: A damaged unit may need extra repair. If so, the manufacturer will call you with an estimate of any added charges. ^ If you accept the estimate, mail a dealership check for the additional amount to the manufacturer, authorize the increased amount to be applied to the credit card payment, or have the manufacturer ship the unit back to you, and you pay the difference upon arrival (C.O.D.). ^ If you reject the estimate, the faulty unit will be returned to you along with a refund. However, you will be charged $30.00 (C.O.D.) for diagnosis, shipping, and handling. The unit will be shipped back to you, via UPS Ground. COMPLETING THE OUT-OF-WARRANTY/NEW REPLACEMENT AUDIO SYSTEM COMPONENT REPAIR FORM Page 490 Relay And Control Unit Locations - Dashboard Page 7843 Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow from power at the top of the diagram to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another for example is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors Page 7919 Programming the Transmitter NOTES: ^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased. ^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the programming mode. ^ You must complete steps 1-6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from exiting the programming mode. 1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter can be used for this step.) 3. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 4. Repeat steps 1 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2. 5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode. 7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted the transmitter's code. 8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda using normal parts ordering procedures. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery. 94-95 Passport (Except 1995-1/2) 1994-95 Passport (except 19951A) with dealer-installed security system NOTES: ^ The system uses a stacking-type memory that accepts up to four transmitters. If you program a fifth transmitter, the memory for the first transmitter is pushed out, and it will no longer work. ^ To clear a lost or stolen transmitter from the system's memory, program a transmitter four times. This will remove the missing transmitter from memory, since only four transmitters can be accepted. Page 10070 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 3652 34. ECT Sensor Page 835 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: Page 5521 2. Slide the outboard boot (A) to the inboard joint side. Take care not to damage the boot. 3. Wipe off the grease to expose the driveshaft and the outboard joint inner race. 4. Make a mark (A) on the driveshaft (B) at the same position of the outboard joint end (C). 5. Carefully clamp the driveshaft (A) in a vise (B). 6. Remove the outboard joint (C) using the special tool and a commercially available 5/8" x 18 slide hammer (D). 7. Remove the driveshaft from the vise. 8. Remove the stop ring (A) from the driveshaft (B). Page 4290 Procedure 1. Connect the scan tool to the vehicle's data link connector (DLC), and bring up the tool's generic OBD II mode. 2. Start the engine. 3. Test-drive the vehicle under stop-and-go conditions with short periods of steady cruise. During the drive, decelerate (with the throttle fully closed) for 5 seconds. After about 3.5 miles (5.6 km), the readiness code should switch from incomplete to complete. 4. If the readiness code is still set to incomplete, check for a temporary DTC. If there is no DTC, the enable criteria was probably not met; repeat the procedure. Air/Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor Heater Monitor Readiness Code NOTE: All readiness codes are cleared when the battery is disconnected or when the ECM is cleared with the OBD II scan tool or Honda PGM Tester. Procedure 1. Connect the scan tool to the vehicle's data link connector (DLC), and bring up the tool's generic OBD II mode. 2. Start the engine, and let it idle for 1 minute. The readiness code should switch from incomplete to complete. 3. If the readiness code is still set to incomplete, check for a temporary DTC. If there is no DTC, repeat the procedure. Misfire Monitor and Readiness Code - This readiness code is always set to available because misfiring is continuously monitored. - Monitoring pauses, and the misfire counter resets, if the vehicle is driven over a rough road. - Monitoring also pauses, and the misfire counter holds at its current value, if the throttle position changes more than a predetermined value, or if driving conditions fall outside the range of any related enable criteria. Fuel System Monitor and Readiness Code - This readiness code is always set to available because the fuel system is continuously monitored during closed loop operation. - Monitoring pauses when the catalytic converter, EVAP control system, and A/F sensor monitors are active. - Monitoring also pauses when any related enable criteria are not being met. Monitoring resumes when the enable criteria is again being met. Comprehensive Component Monitor and Readiness Code This readiness code is always set to available because the comprehensive component monitor is continuously running whenever the engine is cranking or running. EGR Monitor and Readiness Code NOTE: - Do not turn the ignition switch off during the procedure. - All readiness codes are cleared when the battery is disconnected or when the ECM is cleared with the OBD II scan tool or Honda PGM Tester. Enable Criteria - ECT at 176 °F (80 °C) or higher Procedure 1. Connect the scan tool to the vehicle's data link connector (DLC), and bring up the tool's generic OBD II mode. 2. Start the engine. 3. Drive at a steady speed with the CVT in D position or M/T in 4th gear, 50 - 62 mph (80 - 100 km/h) or above for more than 10 seconds. 4. With the CVT in D position or M/T in 4th gear, decelerate from 62 mph (100 km/h) or above by completely releasing the throttle for at least 5 seconds. If the engine is stopped during this procedure, go to step 3 and do the procedure again. 5. If the readiness code is still set to incomplete, check for a temporary DTC. If there is no DTC, the enable criteria was probably not met; repeat the procedure. Page 6683 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 5725 130. Transmission Housing (CVT) Page 246 Terminals - "T" Shielding Switches Fuses Page 8638 Trunk / Liftgate Switch: Connector Locations 114. Middle of Cargo Area 118. Middle of Hatch Page 7706 Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Description and Operation SRS Operation SRS Operation The main circuit in the SRS unit senses and judges the force of impact and, if necessary, ignites the inflator charges. If battery voltage is too low or power is disconnected due to impact, the voltage regulator and the back-up power circuit respectively will keep voltage at a constant level. For the SRS to operate: 1. The impact sensor must activate and send electronic signals to the microprocessor. 2. The microprocessor must compute the signals and send them to the airbag inflators (and seat belt tensioners). 3. The inflators must ignite and deploy the airbags (and activate the tensioners). Self-diagnosis System A self-diagnosis circuit is built into the SRS unit; when the ignition switch is turned ON (II), the SRS indicator comes on and goes off after about 6 seconds if the SRS is operating normally. If the indicator does not come on, or does not go off after six seconds, or if it comes on while driving, it indicates an abnormality in the SRS. The SRS must be inspected and repaired as soon as possible. For better serviceability, the memory will store the cause of the malfunction, and the data link circuit passes on information from memory to the data link connector (DLC). This information can be read with the Honda PGM Tester connected to the DLC (16P). Page 9049 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: Page 8217 Power Trunk / Liftgate Lock Actuator: Diagnostic Aids Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Page 1068 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 1580 ^ If the wheels are pointed to the right, shorten the driver's side tie-rod, and lengthen the passenger's side. ^ If the wheels are pointed to the left, shorten the passenger's side tie-rod, and lengthen the driver's side. ^ Each 360° turn of the tie-rod equals about 8 mm of steering wheel adjustment. For example, a steering wheel is off-center by 4 mm with the front wheels pointed right (when the steering wheel is centered). To correct the off-center, shorten the driver's side tie-rod by a half-turn, and lengthen the passenger's side tie-rod by a half-turn. 4. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC. Technical Service Bulletin # SN030915 Date: 030901 Suspension - Drifting & Pulling At Highway Speeds SOURCE: Honda Service News September 2003 TITLE: Drifting and Pulling at Highway Speeds APPLIES TO: All Models SERVICE TIP: Got a customer complaining that the vehicle drifts or pulls when driving at highway speeds? Use this handy procedure to diagnose and repair the problem. NOTE: Before doing the procedure in this article, check ISIS for related S/Bs and other S/N articles for the model you're working on. 1. Check if your customer has original equipment wheels and tires and that the ride height hasn't been modified. - If the wheels, tires, and ride height are OK, go to step 2. - If the wheels or tires aren't original equipment or the ride height was modified, stop here. Aftermarket wheels or tires or a ride height that's been modified pose challenges that this article doesn't cover. Resolve these issues with your customer before going further. 2. Set the tire pressures to the recommended cold inflation values listed on the doorjamb sticker. 3. Find a straight stretch of 4-lane road where you can safely (and legally) go 60 mph for several minutes. Ideally, you want a road that's perfectly flat, but most roads have a crown that¡C■s anywhere from 1.5° to 1.75° so they can drain. Flat Road - While driving at 60 mph, use a stopwatch to time how long it takes to drift one full lane from center to center. Record the time. Repeat this, driving in the opposite direction to cancel the effects of wind, then average the two times you recorded. If the vehicle drifts one full lane from center to center in less than 6 seconds, go to step 4. If not, return the vehicle to your customer. Crowned Road - While driving at 60 mph, check if the vehicle climbs the crown. Do this for both a left- and right-crowned road. A drift to the right on a right-crowned road and a drift to the left on left-crowned road are considered normal. If the vehicle climbs the crown or it drifts to the right on a left crowned road, go to step 4. 4. Record the original toe, camber, and caster readings. On Passports, set the ride height to spec if needed. Refer to Ride Height Adjustment in S/B 99-043, Steering Wheel Shimmy or Chassis Vibration. 5. Loosen the subframe mounting bolts, and move the rear beam (it¡C■s the entire front subframe on some models) to get the maximum amount of caster and equal side-to-side camber. (As little as 0.4° of camber stagger can cause the vehicle to pull.) 6. Make sure the steering wheel is centered, then set the front and rear toe to the maximum toe-in spec. (Toe-in improves vehicle stability and reduces the tendency to drift or pull.) 7. Test-drive the vehicle on the same road you used earlier. - If the drift is now within spec, return the vehicle to your customer. - If the drift is still out of spec, go to step 8. 8. Swap the front and rear tires on each side of the vehicle, then adjust the tire pressures to the recommended cold inflation values listed on the doorjamb sticker. Locations Tail Lamp Relay: Locations Vehicle Locations Page 3294 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. Service and Repair Reverse Gear Shaft: Service and Repair For further information regarding this component and the system that it is a part of, please refer to Manual Transmission/Transaxle; Service and Repair. Service and Repair Rear Bumper: Service and Repair Rear Bumper Removal/Installation NOTE: - Have an assistant help you remove and install the front bumper. - Take care not to scratch the front bumper and body. - Put on gloves to protect your hands. 1. Remove these items: - Rear fender skirt, both sides - Taillight, both sides 2. Remove the rear bumper as shown. 3. Install the bumper in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - Make sure the rear bumper engages the hooks (bumper upper beam and under the taillight) on each side securely. - Make sure the license plate light bulb socket is connected properly. - Check for damaged or stress-whitened clips, and replace them with new ones. - Reinstall the rear fender skirt. Page 7581 1. Right Side of Engine Compartment Page 2472 55. Radiator Fan Switch Page 557 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. Service and Repair Fuel Pressure Release: Service and Repair Fuel Pressure Relieving Before disconnecting fuel pipes or hoses, release pressure from the system by loosening the sealing nut on top of the fuel rail. 1. Write down the frequencies for the radio's preset buttons. 2. Disconnect the battery negative cable from the battery negative terminal. 3. Remove the fuel fill cap. 4. Use a wrench on the sealing nut (A) at the fuel rail. 5. Place a rag or shop towel (B) over the sealing nut. 6. Slowly loosen the sealing nut one complete turn. NOTE: Replace all washers whenever the sealing nut is loosened or removed. Component Locations Power Door Locks - Component Location Index Page 5515 Page 4970 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. Page 4927 116. PGM-FI Main Relay And A/T Reverse Relay (CVT) Page 2266 9. Install the new oil pan gaskets (A) and a new O-ring (B) on the oil pan, then install the oil pan (C). 10. Tighten the bolts and nuts to the specified torque. Specified torque: 8 x 1.25 mm 22 Nm (2.2 kgf-cm, 16 ft. lbs.) 6 x 1.0 mm 12 Nm (1.2 kgf-cm, 8.7 ft. lbs.) Page 1271 Cylinder Identification Sensor: Service and Repair TDC1/TDC2 Sensors Replacement 1. Disconnect connectors from the TDC1 sensor and TDC2 sensor. Remove the TDC1 sensor (A) and the TDC2 sensor (B). 2. Install the TDC1 sensor and the TDC2 sensor using new O-rings (C). Page 2481 Page 4772 Fuel Pump Relay: Description and Operation PGM-FI Main Relay The PGM-FI main relay contains two separate relays. One is energized whenever the ignition is on which supplies battery voltage to the ECM, power to the fuel injectors, and power for the fuel cut relay. The fuel cut relay is energized to supply power to the fuel pump for 2 seconds when the ignition is switched ON (II), and when the engine is running. Page 9100 Oil Pressure Sender: Testing and Inspection Test 1. Remove the oil pressure switch connector (A) from the engine oil pressure switch (B). 2. Check for continuity between the engine oil pressure switch and the engine (ground). There should be continuity with the engine stopped. There should be no continuity with the engine running. 3. If the switch fails to operate, check the engine oil level. If the engine oil level is OK, check the engine oil pressure. Page 9180 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 551 Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow from power at the top of the diagram to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another for example is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors Page 6819 15. Press the wheel bearing inner race (A) out of the hub (B) using the special tool, a commercially available bearing separator (C), and a press. 16. Remove the splash guard (A) from the knuckle (B). 17. Remove the flange bolts (A), and remove the hub bearing unit (B) from the knuckle. 18. Wash the knuckle and hub thoroughly in high flash point solvent before reassembly. Page 848 Trunk / Liftgate Switch: Service and Repair Hatch Opener Switch Replacement NOTE: - Take care not to scratch the hatch. - Put on gloves to protect your hands. 1. Remove the hatch trim panel. 2. Remove the hatch opener switch as shown. 3. Install the hatch opener switch in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - Make sure the connector is plugged in properly. - Make sure the hatch opens properly. Page 6507 Auxiliary Power Outlet: Testing and Inspection Test/Replacement 1. Remove the center lower cover. 2. Disconnect the 2P connector (A). 3. Inspect the connector terminals to be sure they are all making good contact. - If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system. - If the terminals look OK, go to step 4. 4. Turn the ignition switch ACC (I), and check for voltage between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals. - There should be battery voltage. - If there is no battery voltage, check for: poor ground (G404). - an open in the wire. - blown No. 12 (10 A) in the under-dash fuse/relay box. 5. If the test proves OK, replace the socket (B). Page 574 Fuel Pump Relay: Connector Views Service and Repair Clutch Slave Cylinder: Service and Repair Slave Cylinder Replacement NOTE: Do not spill brake fluid on the vehicle; it may damage the paint; if brake fluid does contact the paint, wash it off immediately with water. 1. Remove the engine cover and air cleaner housing. 2. Remove the throttle drum cover. 3. Disconnect the clutch line (A) from the slave cylinder (B). Plug the end of the clutch line with a shop towel to prevent brake fluid from coming out. 4. Remove the two bolts (C) and slave cylinder. 5. Pull the boot (A) back, and apply brake assembly lube or equivalent rubber grease to the boot and slave cylinder rod (B). Reinstall the boot. 6. Apply super high temp urea grease (P/N 08798-9002) to the tip of the slave cylinder rod. Page 530 Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Testing and Inspection PGM-FI Main Relay Test PGM-FI Main Relay Test Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No.3 and No.4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals when power is disconnected. Page 8645 Terminals - "T" Shielding Switches Fuses Page 9011 3. Remove the glove box, then disconnect the passenger's airbag 2P connector (A) from the floor wire harness. Seat Belt Tensioner: 4. Remove the B-pillar lower trim panel, then disconnect the seat belt tensioner2P connector (A) from the floor wire harness. Page 4493 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: - Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest OHMS" range. Page 10056 Wire Color Coding Distinct Of Circuit By Wire Base Color All wires have color-coded insulation. Wires belonging to a system's main harness will have a single color. Wires belonging to a system's sub-circuits will have a colored stripe. Striped wires use the codes found in the chart to show wire size and colors. Abbreviations are used to indicate wire color within a circuit diagram. Wire Color Abbreviations The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics: WHT................................... White YEL................................... Yellow BLK................................... Black BLU................................... Blue GRN................................... Green RED................................... Red ORN................................... Orange PNK................................... Pink BRN................................... Brown GRY................................... Gray PUR................................... Purple LT BLU................................... Light Blue LT GRN................................... Light Green The wire insulation has one color or one color with another color stripe. The second color is the stripe. How to Identify Connector Terminals How to Identify Connector Terminals Page 9034 Wire Color Coding Distinct Of Circuit By Wire Base Color All wires have color-coded insulation. Wires belonging to a system's main harness will have a single color. Wires belonging to a system's sub-circuits will have a colored stripe. Striped wires use the codes found in the chart to show wire size and colors. Abbreviations are used to indicate wire color within a circuit diagram. Wire Color Abbreviations The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics: WHT................................... White YEL................................... Yellow BLK................................... Black BLU................................... Blue GRN................................... Green RED................................... Red ORN................................... Orange PNK................................... Pink BRN................................... Brown GRY................................... Gray PUR................................... Purple LT BLU................................... Light Blue LT GRN................................... Light Green The wire insulation has one color or one color with another color stripe. The second color is the stripe. How to Identify Connector Terminals How to Identify Connector Terminals Page 3281 Wires Page 6405 175. Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box Page 4208 DTC P0A94 thru P0157 Page 9473 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. Page 1979 Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow from power at the top of the diagram to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another for example is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors Page 3342 Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution diagram set to get a more detailed picture of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Page 4489 All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416 etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector or by a capital letter (A, B, C etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Connector Views that shows the connector terminals wire colors connector cavity numbers and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints shown on diagram [8] . Except for the DLC (data link connector) disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554 for example means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Page 8725 Connectors - "C" Page 118 98. Blower Motor High Relay Page 7229 Cabin Temperature Sensor / Switch: Testing and Inspection In-car Temperature Sensor Test Check for a change in resistance by heating or cooling the sensor with a hair drier. Compare the resistance reading between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals of the in-car temperature sensor with the specifications shown in the graph; the resistance should be within the specifications. Page 6349 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Page 4029 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: - Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest OHMS" range. Page 2816 Page 6548 In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locater) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: - Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. Page 4415 Knock Sensor: Description and Operation Knock Sensor The knock control system adjusts the ignition timing to minimize knock. Page 3955 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. Page 4408 45. IAT Sensor Page 4458 Vehicle Speed Sensor: Locations Gauges - Component Location Index Page 3831 DTC P0A94 thru P0157 Page 7382 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: Page 7113 Wires Page 5857 Brake Drum: Testing and Inspection Rear Drum Brake Inspection CAUTION: Frequent inhalation of brake pad dust, regardless of material composition, could be hazardous to your health. ^ Avoid breathing dust particles ^ Never use an air hose or brush to clean brake assemblies. Use an OSHA-approved vacuum cleaner. NOTICE: To avoid damage, do not strike aluminum parts with a metal hammer. If necessary, tap gently with a plastic-tipped hammer. 1. Raise the rear of the vehicle, and make sure it is securely supported. Remove the fender skirts, and rear wheels. 2. Release the parking brake, and remove the rear brake drum. 3. Check the wheel cylinder (A) for leakage. 4. Check the brake linings (B) for cracking, glazing, wear, and contamination. 5. Measure the brake lining thickness (C). Measurement does not include brake shoe thickness. Brake lining thickness: Standard: 4.3 mm (0.17 inch) Service limit: 1.0 mm (0.04 inch) Locations 15. Front Top of Transmission Page 8362 Terminals - "T" Shielding Switches Fuses Page 9595 All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416 etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector or by a capital letter (A, B, C etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Connector Views that shows the connector terminals wire colors connector cavity numbers and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints shown on diagram [8] . Except for the DLC (data link connector) disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554 for example means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Locations Relay And Control Unit Locations - Dashboard Page 5013 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. Page 5512 12. Pry the inboard joint (A) with a prybar, and remove the driveshaft from the differential case or bearing support as an assembly. Do not pull on the driveshaft (B), because the inboard joint may come apart. Draw the driveshaft straight out to avoid damaging the differential oil seal. Installation 1. Apply 0.3 - 1.0 g (0.01 - 0.04 oz) of specified grease to the whole splined surface (A) of the driveshaft. After applying grease, remove the grease from the splined grooves at intervals of 2-3 splines and from the set ring groove (B) so air can bleed from the differential. 2. Install a new set ring onto the set ring groove of the driveshaft. 3. Clean the areas where the driveshaft contacts the differential thoroughly with solvent or carburetor cleaner, and dry with compressed air. Insert the inboard end (A) of the driveshaft into the differential (B) until the set ring (C) locks in the groove (D). Page 4330 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. Page 5527 1. Wrap the splines with vinyl tape (A) to prevent damage to the outboard boot. 2. Install the new boot bands (B). 3. Install the outboard boot (C). Take care not to damage the outboard boot. 4. Remove the vinyl tape. 5. Install the new stop ring (A) into the driveshaft groove (B). 6. Insert the driveshaft (A) into the outboard joint (B) until the stop ring (C) is close on the joint. Page 6245 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 3761 DTC P0A94 thru P0157 Page 1987 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. Page 7783 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. Locations Page 1945 15. Press the wheel bearing inner race (A) out of the hub (B) using the special tool, a commercially available bearing separator (C), and a press. 16. Remove the splash guard (A) from the knuckle (B). 17. Remove the flange bolts (A), and remove the hub bearing unit (B) from the knuckle. 18. Wash the knuckle and hub thoroughly in high flash point solvent before reassembly. Page 9033 Diodes How to Identify Wiring Color-Coded Insulation Wire Color Page 6493 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Component Locations Oxygen Sensor: Component Locations PGM-FI System - Component Location Index Part 1 Page 7775 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 1876 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Locations Relay And Control Unit Locations - Dashboard Page 5864 6. Install the tension pins (A), and secure them with the retainers, O-rings by turning them while pushing each retainer spring (B). 7. Install the upper return spring (A) and lower return spring (B). 8. Install the brake drum. 9. Install the rear wheels. 10. If the wheel cylinder has been removed, bleed the brake system. 11. Press the brake pedal several times to set the self adjusting brake. 12. Adjust the parking brake. 13. Install the fender skirts. Page 5104 29. CKP Sensor Locations Power Door Locks - Component Location Index Page 2337 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. Page 7736 Seat Belt: Specifications Seat Belt Upper Anchor Bolt (7/16 - 20 UNF) ............................................................................................................................................. 32 Nm (3.3 kg.m, 24 lb.ft) Lower Anchor Bolt (7/16 - 20 UNF) ............................................................................................................................................. 32 Nm (3.3 kg.m, 24 lb.ft) Reactor Mounting Bolt (6 X 1.0 mm) ......................................................................................................................................... 9.8 Nm (1.0 kg.m, 7.2 lb.ft) Reactor Bolt (7/16 -20 UNF) ........................................................................................................................................................ 32 Nm (3.3 kg.m, 24 lb.ft) Seat Belt Buckle Center Anchor Bolt (7/16 - 20 UNF) ............................................................................................................................................ 34 Nm (3.5 kg.m, 25 lb.ft) Page 2432 29. Set the clock. Page 5790 Wires Testing and Inspection Wiper Control Module: Testing and Inspection Control Circuit Input Test 1. Remove the gauge assembly. 2. Disconnect the 22P connector from the gauge assembly. 3. Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are making good contact. - If the terminals are bent, loose, or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system. - If the terminals look OK, go to step 4. 4. With the connector still disconnected, make these input tests at the connector. - If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system. - If all the input tests prove OK, replace the printed circuit board in the gauge assembly. Page 6201 12. Check that there is no continuity between the (+) brush (A) and (-) brush (B). If there is continuity, replace the brush holder assembly. 13. Install the brush into the brush holder, and set the armature (A) in the brush holder (B). 14. Squeezing a spring (C), insert it in the hole on the brush holder and push it until it bottoms. Repeat this for other three springs (D, E and F). 15. Install the armature and brush holder assembly in the housing. NOTE: Make sure the armature stays in the holder. Planetary Gear Inspection 16. Check the planetary gears (A) and ring gear (B) are worn or damaged. If they are worn or damaged, replace the planetary gears and ring gear. Overrunning Clutch Inspection Page 5448 Shift Interlock Solenoid: Service and Repair Shift Lock Solenoid Replacement 1. Remove the front console. 2. Disconnect the shift lock solenoid connector. 3. Pry the shift lock solenoid clamp (A) with a screwdriver, and remove it. 4. Remove the shift lock solenoid. 5. Install the shift lock solenoid plunger (B) and plunger spring (C) in the new shift lock solenoid (D). 6. Install the shift lock solenoid by aligning the joint of the shift lock solenoid plunger with the tip of the shift lock stop (E). 7. Secure the shift lock solenoid with the solenoid clamp. 8. Connect the shift lock solenoid connector. 9. Install the front console. Page 9166 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. Page 1100 Terminals - "T" Shielding Switches Fuses Page 9128 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. Page 4756 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. Page 149 Control Module HVAC: Diagnostic Aids Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Page 300 Page 1854 Wire Color Abbreviations Page 992 130. Motor Commutation Sensor Page 9795 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. A/F Sensor Replacement Oxygen Sensor: Service and Repair A/F Sensor Replacement A/F Sensor Replacement 1. Disconnect the A/F sensor 4P or 8P connector (A), and remove the A/F sensor (B). 2. Install the A/F sensor in the reverse order of removal. Page 273 Relay Box: Connector Views 174. Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box Part 1 Page 4383 Cylinder Identification Sensor: Diagrams TDC Sensor #1 TDC Sensor #2 Page 2941 ^ Remove the module(s). ^ Install the new module(s) in the reverse order of removal, and torque the mounting bolts to 9.8 Nm (7.2 lb-ft). 12. Reinstall the foam insert. 13. Reinstall the IPU lid. Torque the bolts to 9.8 Nm (7.2 lb-ft). 14. Reinstall the trunk right side shelf support. Torque the bolts to 9.8 Nm (7.2 lb-ft). 15. Remove the battery module switch locking cover, flip the switch to ON, then reinstall the locking cover. 16. Reinstall the battery module switch cover. 17. Reinstall the rear clips on the middle bulkhead carpet. 18. Reinstall the cargo floor mat. 19. Check for and clear any DTCs with the HDS. 20. Remove the No. 15 (40A) fuse (EPS control unit) from the under-hood fuse/relay box. 21. With the transmission in neutral (M/T) or Park (CVT), and the clutch released (M/T), start the engine. Hold the engine speed at 3,500 rpm until the IMA battery level indicator shows at least 50 percent charge. 22. Turn off the engine, and reinstall the No. 15 fuse. 23. Center-punch a completion mark above the 14th character of the engine compartment VIN. Disclaimer Page 8031 First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 785 75. In Driver's Door (Passenger's Similar) Page 3376 114. MPI Module Fan Control Relay, High Speed; High Voltage Contactor Relay; Ignition Hold Relay; And MPI Module Fan Control Relay, Low Speed Page 334 DTC P1253 thru P1459 Page 9314 Wires Page 4007 Knock Sensor: Service and Repair Replacement 1. Remove the throttle body. 2. Disconnect the knock sensor connector, then remove the knock sensor. 3. Install the knock sensor. 4. Install the throttle body. Page 117 72. Under Right Side of Dash Page 501 Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow from power at the top of the diagram to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another for example is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors Page 9835 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Page 2064 Rocker Arm Assembly: Service and Repair For further information regarding this component and the system it is a part of, please refer to Cylinder Head Assembly; Service and Repair. Page 7331 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 1551 Defect Code: 07406 Symptom Code: 03602 Skill Level: Repair Technician Diagnostic Trouble Code: To create the 15-digit DTC, see the applicable repair procedure. Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. TOOL DESCRIPTIONS The holding force gauge measures the amount of pull on the vehicle. It is a bracket that counts as one weight, plus five removable weights. During the test-drive, attach the bracket and the weights to the steering wheel on the side opposite the pulling direction. For example, if the vehicle pulls to the right, attach the bracket and weights to the left side of the steering wheel. Start with the maximum amount of weight on the steering wheel, and remove the weights until the vehicle drives in a straight line. When recording the pull on the worksheet, write down the direction of the pull (lefi or right) and the number of weights required to balance the pull (one through six). For example, if you have the bracket and two weights on the steering wheel, then record this as three weights. NOTE: The bracket counts as one weight. Locations 23. Left Rear of Engine Compartment Page 2037 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Page 9787 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. Page 6726 6. Test-drive the vehicle to make sure it no longer pulls. If the steering wheel is now off-center by more than 2 mm, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE C. 7. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC. NOTE: Enter each reading in decimal degrees. Example 30' = 0.50. REPAIR PROCEDURE C 1. Make sure the steering wheel is centered. ^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the right until it stops. ^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left, and count the number of revolutions until it stops. ^ Divide the number of revolutions in half, and turn the steering wheel until it is centered. For example, if it takes four revolutions of the steering wheel to go from lock to lock, then two turns is centered. ^ If the steering wheel is off-center by a large amount (20 mm or more), it may not be centered on the steering column shaft. Reinstall the steering wheel before going to step 2. 2. Place the vehicle on a lift, turn the steering wheel until it is centered, and then raise the vehicle. 3. Adjust the tie-rods. Use your measurements from question 13 of the test-drive to make your adjustment. Engine - Oil Recommendation GF-4 Standard Engine Oil: Technical Service Bulletins Engine - Oil Recommendation GF-4 Standard SOURCE: Honda Service News TITLE: Use ONLY New GF-4 Standard Engine Oil APPLIES TO: All Models SERVICE TIP: There's a new performance standard for engine oil: GF-4. It was jointly developed by automotive and oil experts, and it represents a significant performance upgrade and improvement in fuel economy. GF-4 engine oils must pass grueling tests totaling over 500 hours. On top of this, Honda Genuine engine oils are also tested to ensure specific compatibility with Honda vehicles. GF-4 engine oil is compatible with all current and earlier model year Honda cars and trucks. It also provides these added benefits: - Improved oxidation resistance (reduced thickening of the oil) - Improved deposit protection and better wear protection - Better low-temperature performance over the life of the oil - Environmental protection by extending the life of emissions systems While Honda has upgraded its engine oil to GF-4, other brands may not yet be at this new standard. Keep in mind you must use Honda Genuine engine oil for all warranty repairs. If you use some other brand of oil for non-warranty repairs, make sure that oil meets the GF-4 standard. We recommend you stop using non-GF-4 engine oils and check with your supplier that you're purchasing GF-4 oil. Engine oil produced after April 1, 2005, that meets the GF-4 standard, must post this starburst certification mark on the container. Always look for this mark; some oil container labels won't specifically refer to GF-4. Page 2090 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: Page 126 - Taillight relay Locations Relay And Control Unit Locations - Dashboard Page 9372 Terminals - "T" Shielding Switches Fuses Service and Repair Cowl Moulding / Trim: Service and Repair Cowl Cover Replacement NOTE: - Take care not to scratch the body. - Use a clip remover to remove the clips. 1. Remove the windshield wiper arms . 2. Release all the clips (A), and remove the rear hood seal (B). 3. Release all the clips (C, D), and remove the cowl cover (E). 4. Install all removed parts in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - Check for damaged or stress-whitened clips, and replace them with new ones. - Push the clips into place securely. Page 1798 Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box Part 2 Service and Repair Piston Pin: Service and Repair For further information regarding this component and the system it is a part of, please refer to Cylinder Block Assembly; Service and Repair. Page 268 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. Page 1554 DIAGNOSTIC WORKSHEET REPAIR PROCEDURE A Page 5618 50. Neutral Position Switch (M/T) Page 9122 Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution diagram set to get a more detailed picture of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Page 10352 2. Disconnect the 4P connector (A) from the rear window wiper motor (B). 3. Test the motor by connecting battery power to terminal No. land connect terminal No. 3 to body ground. The rear wiper motor should run smoothly. 4. Connect an analog voltmeter between the No. 4 (+) and No. 2 (-) terminals, and run the motor. The voltmeter should indicate 0 V and 4 V or less alternately. If it does not, replace the rear window wiper motor. Page 9182 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 1240 Camshaft Position Sensor: Diagrams 63. TDC Sensor 1 64. TDC Sensor 2 Page 6504 20. Accessory Power Socket Page 2752 Page 10080 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Locations Wiper Relay: Locations Relay And Control Unit Location - Engine Compartment Page 6557 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: Page 763 29. Left Front Side of Engine Compartment Page 9344 A/T Gear Position Indicator Image 89 Page 9843 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Locations Fuel Shut-off Solenoid Relay: Locations Relay And Control Unit Location - Engine Compartment Page 9530 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. Page 4948 Splices Components Ground - "G" Page 8309 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Page 8366 Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow from power at the top of the diagram to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another for example is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors Page 3334 Connectors - "C" Page 10069 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 6373 Wires Page 8538 Paint: Technical Service Bulletins Air Fresheners - Bad News For Paint Or Plastic SOURCE: Honda Service News November 2003 TITLE: Hanging Air Fresheners: Bad News for Paint or Plastic APPLIES TO: All Models SERVICE TIP: Never let hanging air fresheners come in contact with painted or plastic surfaces. The chemicals used in them can eat into paint or permanently mar the plastic. Most of these air fresheners actually state on their packages to avoid contact with any surface. Advise your customers to heed those words. Page 610 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 6640 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. Page 2578 Catalytic Converter: Description and Operation Catalytic Converter System NOX Adsorptive Three Way Catalyst (NOX Adsorptive TWC) The NOx adsorptive TWC absorbs NOx created during lean burn running when the oxygen concentration is high. Then the engine is put into a richer running mode where the oxygen concentration and NOx levels are low, and the absorbed NOx is released, keeping the average NOx emissions low. Three-Way Catalytic Converter (TWC) The TWC converts hydrocarbons (HC), carbon monoxide (CO), and oxides of nitrogen (NOx) in the exhaust gas to carbon dioxide (CO2), dinitrogen (N2), and water vapor. Page 7759 Splices Components Ground - "G" Page 9680 8. Horn Switch Locations Relay And Control Unit Locations - Dashboard Page 4967 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Page 7112 Wire Color Abbreviations Page 8380 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Page 946 Cabin Temperature Sensor / Switch: Testing and Inspection In-car Temperature Sensor Test Check for a change in resistance by heating or cooling the sensor with a hair drier. Compare the resistance reading between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals of the in-car temperature sensor with the specifications shown in the graph; the resistance should be within the specifications. Page 9533 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. A/T - Vehicle Speed Sensor Installation Precautions Vehicle Speed Sensor: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Vehicle Speed Sensor Installation Precautions Install VSS Properly to Avoid Reman A/T Damage We can't emphasize enough how important it is to follow, to the letter, the installation instructions that come with a reman A/T. These instructions help ensure that you avoid damaging the A/T and score a successful repair. This is particularly true when it comes to installing the vehicle speed sensor (VSS). Step 6 of the instructions tells you to make sure its gear is fully engaged and the VSS is fully seated before you tighten the retaining bolt. If you don't install the VSS properly, the speed sensor gear will get stripped and the A/T will be seriously damaged. So don't take risks with your customer's vehicle. Always follow these instructions to the letter. You can rest assured you're doing the job right. Page 8924 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Page 2705 Failed Part: P/N 1K000-PHM-000 Defect Code: 03214 Symptom Code: 03205 Skill Level: Repair Technician INSPECTION PROCEDURE 1. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 2. Remove the cargo floor mat (see page 20-44 of the 2000-04 Insight Service Manual). (In ISIS, use the keyword FLOOR MAT, and select Interior Trim Removal/Installation - Cargo Area from the list.) 3. Remove the battery module switch cover (two bolts), then remove the locking cover from the switch. 4. Flip the battery module switch to OFF. Reinstall the locking cover. 5. Wait at least 5 minutes to let the capacitors in the system discharge. Page 3598 Ignition System - Component Location Index Page 889 Wheel Speed Sensor: Description and Operation Wheel Sensors The wheel sensors are the magnetic contactless type. As the gear purser teeth rotate past the wheel sensor's magnetic coil, AC current is generated. The AC frequency changes in accordance with the wheel speed. The ABS control unit detects the wheel sensor signal frequency and thereby detects the wheel speed. When the wheel speed drops sharply below the vehicle speed, the inlet valve closes and if necessary, the outlet valve opens momentarily to reduce the caliper fluid pressure. The pump motor starts at this time. As the wheel speed is restored, and the outlet valve closes, the inlet valve opens momentarily to increase the caliper fluid pressure. Diagrams Locations Power Steering Relay: Locations Relay And Control Unit Locations - Dashboard 74. Under Right Side of Kick Panel Page 10002 Wires Page 4565 95. VSS Page 8909 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. Page 2490 Radiator Cooling Fan Temperature Sensor / Switch: Service and Repair Radiator Fan Switch Replacement 1. Disconnect the radiator fan switch connector, then remove the radiator fan switch (A). 2. Install the radiator fen switch using a new O-ring (B). Page 8886 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 6867 125. EPS Torque Sensor Locations Intake Air Temperature Sensor: Locations PGM-FI System - Component Location Index Diagram Information and Instructions Trunk / Liftgate Switch: Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System Terminal Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown below is #6. Page 6161 SRS Components Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Description and Operation SRS Components SRS Components The SRS is a safety device which, when used in conjunction with the seat belt, is designed to help protect the driver and passenger in a frontal impact exceeding a certain set limit. The system consists of the SRS unit, including a safing sensor and an impact sensor (A), the cable reel (B), the driver's airbag (C) and the passenger's airbag (D). The seat belt tensioner (E) is linked with the SRS airbags to further increase the effectiveness of the seat belt. In a front-end collision, the tensioner instantly retracts the belt firmly to secure the occupants in their seats. Page 4786 Page 4225 2. Remove the carpet hold-down clips on the door sill. 3. Remove the carpet hold-down clip in the passenger's footwell under the glove box. Pull back the carpet. 4. Remove the ECM cover mounting nuts. 5. Pivot the lower edge of the ECM cover off the mounting studs. Lift the upper edge of the cover off the mounting studs, then pull the cover down and back so it clears the evaporator drain tube. 6. Remove the two bolts mounting the ECM to the cover. Disconnect the ECM connectors, and remove the ECM. 7. Install the new ECM and the cover in the reverse order of removal. 8. Reinstall the carpet and the door sill trim. 9. Connect the PGM Tester to the data link connector (DLC). 10. Use the PGM Tester to program the customer's immobilizer key codes into the ECM. Verify that all the keys will start the engine. NOTE: Make sure the PGM Tester software is SN32OP or later. 11. Do the idle learn procedure: ^ Warm the engine to normal operating temperature. ^ Let the engine idle for 10 minutes. If the radiator fan comes on, do not include its running time in the 10 minutes. 12. Center-punch a completion mark above the eighth character of the engine compartment VIN. 13. For California residents: Fill out and give to your customer a Vehicle Emission Recall - Proof of Correction certificate. Advise them to keep this certificate as proof that the emissions recall was completed. Your customer will need to submit this certificate to the DMV if the DMV requests it. A supply of these salmon-colored certificates was sent to your service manager. If you need more, use reorder number Y0657. Locations 39. Upper Left Kick Panel Area Page 3217 Procedure 1. Connect the scan tool to the vehicle's data link connector (DLC), and bring up the tool's generic OBD II mode. 2. Start the engine. 3. Test-drive the vehicle under stop-and-go conditions with short periods of steady cruise. During the drive, decelerate (with the throttle fully closed) for 5 seconds. After about 3.5 miles (5.6 km), the readiness code should switch from incomplete to complete. 4. If the readiness code is still set to incomplete, check for a temporary DTC. If there is no DTC, the enable criteria was probably not met; repeat the procedure. Air/Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor Heater Monitor Readiness Code NOTE: All readiness codes are cleared when the battery is disconnected or when the ECM is cleared with the OBD II scan tool or Honda PGM Tester. Procedure 1. Connect the scan tool to the vehicle's data link connector (DLC), and bring up the tool's generic OBD II mode. 2. Start the engine, and let it idle for 1 minute. The readiness code should switch from incomplete to complete. 3. If the readiness code is still set to incomplete, check for a temporary DTC. If there is no DTC, repeat the procedure. Misfire Monitor and Readiness Code - This readiness code is always set to available because misfiring is continuously monitored. - Monitoring pauses, and the misfire counter resets, if the vehicle is driven over a rough road. - Monitoring also pauses, and the misfire counter holds at its current value, if the throttle position changes more than a predetermined value, or if driving conditions fall outside the range of any related enable criteria. Fuel System Monitor and Readiness Code - This readiness code is always set to available because the fuel system is continuously monitored during closed loop operation. - Monitoring pauses when the catalytic converter, EVAP control system, and A/F sensor monitors are active. - Monitoring also pauses when any related enable criteria are not being met. Monitoring resumes when the enable criteria is again being met. Comprehensive Component Monitor and Readiness Code This readiness code is always set to available because the comprehensive component monitor is continuously running whenever the engine is cranking or running. EGR Monitor and Readiness Code NOTE: - Do not turn the ignition switch off during the procedure. - All readiness codes are cleared when the battery is disconnected or when the ECM is cleared with the OBD II scan tool or Honda PGM Tester. Enable Criteria - ECT at 176 °F (80 °C) or higher Procedure 1. Connect the scan tool to the vehicle's data link connector (DLC), and bring up the tool's generic OBD II mode. 2. Start the engine. 3. Drive at a steady speed with the CVT in D position or M/T in 4th gear, 50 - 62 mph (80 - 100 km/h) or above for more than 10 seconds. 4. With the CVT in D position or M/T in 4th gear, decelerate from 62 mph (100 km/h) or above by completely releasing the throttle for at least 5 seconds. If the engine is stopped during this procedure, go to step 3 and do the procedure again. 5. If the readiness code is still set to incomplete, check for a temporary DTC. If there is no DTC, the enable criteria was probably not met; repeat the procedure. Page 619 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. Page 7961 Question: Who do I call if I need help diagnosing the problem or if I have technical questions about the unit? Answer: If you cannot find the answers in the appropriate service manual, service bulletins, or ServiceNews articles on iN, create a Tech Line access code, then call Tech Line: 1. From the iN main menu, select SERVICE. 2. Select Tech Line. A dropdown menu appears, then select Tech Line. The ISIS main screen appears. 3. Select SEARCH BY VEHICLE, and enter any vehicle with any keyword like NAVI, AUDIO, or RES. 4. At the top of the screen you will see this statement: If you cannot resolve the problem with the information below, then click Tech Line. Select Tech Line. 5. The Tech Line access code screen appears. Fill in all the required fields, then select SUBMIT. 6. Have the access number ready when you call Tech Line. Question: Do I need a Tech Line reference number to order a remanufactured audio/navigation/RES unit? Answer: No. Question: What year and model audio/navigation/RES unit can I order through the warranty audio order program? Answer: Most current models are available through the vehicle's standard warranty period. If your application is not available, you will receive a message instructing you to call the Re manufactured Parts Dealer Service Group at 888-997-7278. Question: How can I track my order once I submit it? Answer: To track your order, go the Warranty Audio Order VIN Inquiry screen on the iN. 1. From the iN main menu, click on PARTS. 2. Click on Parts Ordering. 3. Click on Audio VIN Inquiry. 4. Enter a date in the All Orders Accepted Since box, then click on Submit. The AUDIO VIN INQUIRY ACKNOWLEDGEMENT screen appears, listing orders by VIN, ORD REF (Order Reference), STAT (Status), SHIP DATE, SHIPPER, and PART NUMBER. The status of your order is displayed by one of these codes: Codes generated by RPO Tech Line: ^ PEND - Your order is waiting to be processed by RPO Tech Line. ^ HOLD - Your order is waiting for additional dealer diagnosis. ^ ERR - Your order caused an error; call. ^ DENY - RPO Tech Line denied your order; call. ^ APPR - RPO Tech Line approved your order and forwarded it to AHM Parts. Codes generated by AHM Parts Division: ^ BO/TOS - Your order is on back order or is temporarily out of stock. ^ CAN/BOC - Your order has been cancelled contact your assigned parts center. Page 9261 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. Page 3755 ^ If you still cannot hear the solenoid valve click or feel it tap when activated, continue with normal troubleshooting. 15. Insight only: Disconnect the PGM Tester, and return the vehicle to your customer. 16. All other affected models: Use the PGM Tester to run the EVAP system function test (see S/B 02-007, EVAP System Function Testing and Diagnostics With the PGM Tester). ^ If the EVAP system passes the function test, disconnect the PGM Tester, and return the vehicle to your customer. ^ If the EVAP system fails the function test, continue with normal troubleshooting. Disclaimer Page 947 Cabin Temperature Sensor / Switch: Service and Repair In-car Temperature Sensor Replacement 1. Remove the in-car temperature sensor (A) from the dashboard, then disconnect the 2P connector (B) and the air hose (C). Be careful not to damage the sensor or the dashboard. 2. Install the sensor in the reverse order of removal. Be sure to connect the air hose securely. Page 9440 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Component Locations Climate Control - Component Location Index Page 211 Relay And Control Unit Locations - Dashboard Page 3242 In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locater) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: - Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. Page 8795 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 8777 In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locater) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: - Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. Locations 49. Under Left Side of Dash (Honda Accessory) Page 4269 ECM Inputs and Outputs at Connector A (32P) Part 2 Page 451 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. Page 493 Wire Color Abbreviations Locations 47. Steering Wheel (Airbag Removed) Diagnostic Aids Blower Motor: Diagnostic Aids Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Page 179 136. DRL Control Unit (Canada) Page 7354 Control Assembly: Service and Repair Electronic Climate Control Panel 1. Remove the instrument panel together with the climate control unit. 2. Remove the self-tapping screws and the climate control unit (A) from the instrument panel (B). 3. Install in the reverse order of removal, and note these items. - Be sure to install the short black self-tapping screw in the position shown. If a longer screw is used, it will damage the instrument panel. - After installation, make sure the climate control unit works properly. 4. Run the self-diagnosis function to confirm that there are no problems in the system. Page 6771 6. Test-drive the vehicle to make sure it no longer pulls. If the steering wheel is now off-center by more than 2 mm, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE C. 7. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC. NOTE: Enter each reading in decimal degrees. Example 30' = 0.50. REPAIR PROCEDURE C 1. Make sure the steering wheel is centered. ^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the right until it stops. ^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left, and count the number of revolutions until it stops. ^ Divide the number of revolutions in half, and turn the steering wheel until it is centered. For example, if it takes four revolutions of the steering wheel to go from lock to lock, then two turns is centered. ^ If the steering wheel is off-center by a large amount (20 mm or more), it may not be centered on the steering column shaft. Reinstall the steering wheel before going to step 2. 2. Place the vehicle on a lift, turn the steering wheel until it is centered, and then raise the vehicle. 3. Adjust the tie-rods. Use your measurements from question 13 of the test-drive to make your adjustment. Component Locations Hatch Opener - Component Location Index Page 7520 Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow from power at the top of the diagram to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another for example is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors Description and Operation Low Fuel Lamp/Indicator: Description and Operation Fuel Gauge and Low Fuel Indicator WARNING: Do not smoke while working on the fuel system. Keep open flame away from the work area. Drain fuel only into an approved container. The fuel gauge (part of the LCD Display) and the low fuel indicators are controlled by the CPU in the gauge assembly. The fuel gauge sending unit (part of the fuel tank unit) sends a fuel level signal to the CPU in the gauge assembly through the YEL/BLK wire (cavity A3). The signal varies depending on the position of the float in the fuel tank which changes the resistance of the sending unit. The sending unit's resistance varies according to the position of its float. The CPU controls the LCD Display to turn on the correct number of segments to indicate the fuel level. When the fuel level drops below the LOW level, the CPU grounds the low fuel indicator, which turns the indicator on. Refer to the Fuel Supply System for specific tests or troubleshooting procedures. Page 10115 Wires Page 9107 Parking Brake Warning Switch: Testing and Inspection Parking Brake Switch Test 1. Remove the console, and disconnect the connector (A) from the switch (B). 2. Check for continuity between the positive terminal and body ground: ^ With the brake lever up, there should be continuity. ^ With the brake lever down, there should be no continuity. Page 8968 Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution diagram set to get a more detailed picture of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Page 8932 Driver/Vehicle Information Display: Service and Repair Fuel Consumption Display Switch Replacement 1. Remove the instrument panel. 2. Disconnect the 6P connector (A) from the switch (B). 3. Remove the two screws and the switch. 4. Check for continuity between the No.6 and No.1 terminals when the switch is pushed. There should be continuity Page 9393 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. Diagrams Page 4760 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 9752 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Page 4598 37. EVAP Canister Vent Shut Valve Locations Fuel Supply System - Component Location Index Service and Repair Stabilizer Link: Service and Repair Front Stabilizer Link Removal/Installation NOTE: Bolts and nuts with the [star] mark are special corrosion-resistant Dacro fasteners. Use the same type if replacement is necessary. 1. Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper location. Remove the front wheels. 2. Remove the splash guard. 3. Remove the self-locking nut (A) and flange nut (B) while holding the respective joint pins (C) with a hex wrench (D), and remove the stabilizer link (E). 4. Install the stabilizer link (A) onto the stabilizer bar (B) and damper (C) unit with each joint pin (D) set at the center of its range of movement. 5. Install the self-locking nut and flange nut, and lightly tighten them. 6. Place the jack with a wood block under the lower arm ball joint, and raise the suspension to load the stabilizer bar. Page 5547 15. Press the wheel bearing inner race (A) out of the hub (B) using the special tool, a commercially available bearing separator (C), and a press. 16. Remove the splash guard (A) from the knuckle (B). 17. Remove the flange bolts (A), and remove the hub bearing unit (B) from the knuckle. 18. Wash the knuckle and hub thoroughly in high flash point solvent before reassembly. Page 7127 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Locations 10. Middle of Engine Page 2008 Wire Color Abbreviations Locations 23. Left Rear of Engine Compartment Page 3769 DTC P1586 thru P1678 Page 676 3. Remove the battery module switch cover (two bolts), then remove the locking cover from the switch. 4. Flip the battery module switch to OFF, then reinstall the locking cover. 5. Wait at least 5 minutes for the capacitors in the system to discharge. 6. Remove the rear clips from the middle bulkhead carpet. Component Locations Fuse Block: Component Locations 28. Left Front Side of Engine Compartment 33. Underside of Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box Page 351 2. Remove the carpet hold-down clips on the door sill. 3. Remove the carpet hold-down clip in the passenger's footwell under the glove box. Pull back the carpet. 4. Remove the ECM cover mounting nuts. 5. Pivot the lower edge of the ECM cover off the mounting studs. Lift the upper edge of the cover off the mounting studs, then pull the cover down and back so it clears the evaporator drain tube. 6. Remove the two bolts mounting the ECM to the cover. Disconnect the ECM connectors, and remove the ECM. 7. Install the new ECM and the cover in the reverse order of removal. 8. Reinstall the carpet and the door sill trim. 9. Connect the PGM Tester to the data link connector (DLC). 10. Use the PGM Tester to program the customer's immobilizer key codes into the ECM. Verify that all the keys will start the engine. NOTE: Make sure the PGM Tester software is SN32OP or later. 11. Do the idle learn procedure: ^ Warm the engine to normal operating temperature. ^ Let the engine idle for 10 minutes. If the radiator fan comes on, do not include its running time in the 10 minutes. 12. Center-punch a completion mark above the eighth character of the engine compartment VIN. 13. For California residents: Fill out and give to your customer a Vehicle Emission Recall - Proof of Correction certificate. Advise them to keep this certificate as proof that the emissions recall was completed. Your customer will need to submit this certificate to the DMV if the DMV requests it. A supply of these salmon-colored certificates was sent to your service manager. If you need more, use reorder number Y0657. Page 8927 5. Door Switch, Driver's Or Passenger's Page 579 10. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and measure voltage between ECM connector terminals B1 and B20, and between B9 and B20. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 11. NO - Check for an open in the wires between the PGM-FI main relay and the ECM (B1, B9). If the wires are OK, replace the PGM-FI main relay. 11. Turn the ignition switch OFF, then ON (II) again, and measure voltage between ECM connector terminals A15 and B2 within the first two seconds after the ignition switch is turned ON (II). Is there 1.0 V or less? YES - The PGM-FI main relay may be faulty. NO - Update the ECM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM, replace the original ECM. Page 3874 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. Page 9054 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. Page 10057 Cavity Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity / terminal shown is # 6. Circuit Schematics Service and Repair Fuel Pressure Release: Service and Repair Fuel Pressure Relieving Before disconnecting fuel pipes or hoses, release pressure from the system by loosening the sealing nut on top of the fuel rail. 1. Write down the frequencies for the radio's preset buttons. 2. Disconnect the battery negative cable from the battery negative terminal. 3. Remove the fuel fill cap. 4. Use a wrench on the sealing nut (A) at the fuel rail. 5. Place a rag or shop towel (B) over the sealing nut. 6. Slowly loosen the sealing nut one complete turn. NOTE: Replace all washers whenever the sealing nut is loosened or removed. Page 5360 Pressure Plate: Service and Repair Clutch Disc and Pressure Plate Installation Clutch Replacement Special Tools Required ^ Clutch alignment shaft 07JAF-PM7012A ^ Remover handle 07936-3710100 ^ Ring gear holder 07LAB-PV00100 or 07924-PD20003 ^ Driver 07749-0010000 ^ Attachment, 32 x 35 mm 07746-0010100 Clutch Disc and Pressure Plate Installation 1. Temporarily install the clutch disc onto the splines of the transmission mainshaft. Make sure the clutch disc slides freely on the mainshaft. 2. Install the special tool (A). 3. Apply Super High Temp Urea Grease (P/N 08798-9002) to the splines (B) of the clutch disc (C), then install the clutch disc using the special tools. 4. Install the pressure plate (A) and the mounting bolts (B), finger-tight. Page 9940 Wire Color Coding Distinct Of Circuit By Wire Base Color All wires have color-coded insulation. Wires belonging to a system's main harness will have a single color. Wires belonging to a system's sub-circuits will have a colored stripe. Striped wires use the codes found in the chart to show wire size and colors. Abbreviations are used to indicate wire color within a circuit diagram. Wire Color Abbreviations The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics: WHT................................... White YEL................................... Yellow BLK................................... Black BLU................................... Blue GRN................................... Green RED................................... Red ORN................................... Orange PNK................................... Pink BRN................................... Brown GRY................................... Gray PUR................................... Purple LT BLU................................... Light Blue LT GRN................................... Light Green The wire insulation has one color or one color with another color stripe. The second color is the stripe. How to Identify Connector Terminals How to Identify Connector Terminals Page 6543 39. Upper Left Kick Panel Area Page 9598 In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locater) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: - Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. Page 6735 The steering wheel offset gauge is a sticker that attaches to the steering wheel and the steering column cover. Place the sticker on the steering wheel when the steering wheel is straight. When you test-drive the vehicle, you can read how many millimeters the steering wheel is off-center. NOTE: If the vehicle is pulling, repairing the pull may correct the steering wheel offset. Page 3483 94. TP Sensor Locations 39. Upper Left Kick Panel Area Service and Repair Front Door Window Regulator: Service and Repair Door Glass and Regulator Replacement NOTE: - Put on gloves to protect your hands. - Take care not to scratch the door. - Take care not to drop the window glass inside the door. 1. Remove these items: - Door panel - Plastic cover 2. Remove the door glass and regulator in the numbered sequence. Locations Parking Brake Warning Switch: Locations Gauges - Component Location Index Page 25 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 4624 121. EGR Valve And EGR Valve Position Sensor Page 9537 Dimmer Switch: Electrical Diagrams Locations Electric Load Sensor: Locations Relay And Control Unit Location - Engine Compartment Page 4539 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. Page 2265 4. Apply liquid gaskets, part No. 08718-0009, evenly to the cylinder block mating surface of the oil pump and to the inner threads of the bolt holes. NOTE: Do not install the parts if 5 minutes or more have elapsed since applying liquid gasket. Instead, reapply liquid gasket after removing the old residue. 5. Install the dowel pins (A), then align the inner rotor with the crankshaft and install the oil pump (B) using new O-rings (C). 6. Install the oil screen (D) using a new gasket (E). 7. Clean and dry the oil pan mating surfaces. 8. Apply liquid gasket part No. 08718-0009 evenly to the cylinder block mating surface of the oil pan and to the inner threads of the bolt holes. NOTE: Do not install the parts if 5 minutes or more have elapsed since applying liquid gasket. Instead, reapply liquid gasket after removing the old residue. Page 5158 Crankshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair Replacement 1. Disconnect the CKP sensor connector, then remove the CKP sensor (A). 2. Install the CKP sensor using a new O-ring (B). Page 9606 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Service and Repair Front Door Window Glass Weatherstrip: Service and Repair Door Glass Outer Weatherstrip Replacement NOTE: - Put on gloves to protect your hands. - Take care not to scratch the door and molding. 1. Remove these items: - Door sash outer trim - Power mirror 2. Starting at the rear, pry the door glass outer weatherstrip (A) up, and detach the clips (B) 3. Install the weatherstrip in the reverse order of removal, and replace any damaged clips. Page 3251 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: Page 9935 Wires Page 6505 Auxiliary Power Outlet: Electrical Diagrams Accessory Power Socket - Circuit Diagram Wiring Diagrams Page 4178 9. Connect the PGM Tester to the data link connector (DLC). 10. Use the PGM Tester to program the customer's immobilizer key codes into the ECM. Verity that all the keys will start the engine. 11. Center-punch a completion mark above the first character (J) of the engine compartment VIN. Disclaimer Page 6816 2. Remove the center cap (A), wheel nuts (B), and front wheel (C). 3. Remove the brake hose bracket mounting bolt (A). 4. Remove the caliper bracket mounting bolts (B), and remove the caliper assembly (C) from the knuckle. To prevent damage to the caliper assembly or brake hose, use a short piece of wire to hang the caliper assembly from the undercarriage. Do not twist the brake hose with force. 5. Remove the spindle nut (A). Page 3338 Wire Color Coding Distinct Of Circuit By Wire Base Color All wires have color-coded insulation. Wires belonging to a system's main harness will have a single color. Wires belonging to a system's sub-circuits will have a colored stripe. Striped wires use the codes found in the chart to show wire size and colors. Abbreviations are used to indicate wire color within a circuit diagram. Wire Color Abbreviations The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics: WHT................................... White YEL................................... Yellow BLK................................... Black BLU................................... Blue GRN................................... Green RED................................... Red ORN................................... Orange PNK................................... Pink BRN................................... Brown GRY................................... Gray PUR................................... Purple LT BLU................................... Light Blue LT GRN................................... Light Green The wire insulation has one color or one color with another color stripe. The second color is the stripe. How to Identify Connector Terminals How to Identify Connector Terminals Page 7008 - If necessary, replace the damper housing, damper base, and wheelhouse B as an assembly. - Drill holes completely through the part because the replacement wheelhouse B and damper base will be attached by plug welding. Installation 1. Set the new damper housing, and front wheelhouse into position, and measure the front compartment diagonally. Check the body dimensions. 2. Tack weld the clamped position. 3. Check the front damper position. Temporarily install the hood, front fender, headlight, and front bumper, and check for differences in level and clearance. Make sure the body lines flow smoothly. 4. Perform the main welding Page 3570 10. Measure voltage between ECM connector terminals A31 and B20. Is there battery voltage? YES - Replace the idle stop switch. NO - Go to step 11. 11. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 12. Disconnect ECM connector A (32P). 13. Check for continuity between ECM connector terminal A31 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Repair short in the wire between the ECM (A31) and the idle stop switch. NO - Update the ECM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM, replace the original ECM. 14. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 15. Disconnect the idle stop switch 2P connector. 16. Check for continuity between the idle stop switch 2P connector terminals No.1 and No.2. Is there continuity? YES - Go to step 17. NO - Replace the idle stop switch. Page 5359 10. Measure the rivet depth from the clutch disc lining surface (A) to the rivets (B) on both sides. If the thickness is less than the service limit, replace the clutch disc. Page 7282 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. Testing and Inspection Fuel Cut Control Unit: Testing and Inspection Fuel Cut Relay Test / Normally-Open Type A Fuel Cut/PGM-FI Main - Relay 1. Turn the battery module switch OFF, and measure the voltage. 2. Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No.3 and No.4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals when power is disconnected. Locations Combination Switch: Locations Exterior Lights - Component Location Index Page 402 DTC P0750 thru P0977 Locations Heating/Cooling Unit View Page 4043 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. Page 8174 Front Door Window Motor: Diagrams 72. Power Window Motor, Passenger's 106. Power Window Motor, Driver's Page 3405 Page 2611 13. Place the printed copies of the IMA Battery Order form and the Core Return Update Acknowledgement into the core return box with the failed IMA battery core. NOTE: If you return a failed IMA battery core without the proper forms, your warranty claim will be debited, and the core will be sent back to your dealership. 14. Return the failed IMA battery core: ^ Backtrack Dealers - Use the backtrack service provided by your daily delivery carrier to return the IMA battery. ^ Non-Backtrack Dealers - Ship the failed IMA battery core to the appropriate location by using the prepaid shipping label included with the new IMA battery. NOTE: ^ If the IMA battery return form is incomplete or not included with the failed IMA core, you will be charged a $50 diagnostic fee. ^ If the IMA battery core is not received at the specific address within 21 days from the order date of the remanufactured IMA battery, your warranty claim will be debited, and your dealership will be issued a core loss charge of $3,000. IMA BATTERY ORDER PROGRAM FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS Question: When do I use the IMA battery order program? Answer: Use the program whenever you are replacing an IMA battery. Question: How do I order an IMA battery? Answer: To order an IMA battery, refer to IMA BATTERY ORDERING on page 2. Question: Who do I call for questions on the IMA battery order program? Answer: For questions about the program, call the RPO Tech Line. Question: Who do I call if I need help diagnosing the problem, or if I have technical questions about the IMA battery? Answer: If you cannot find the answers in the appropriate service manual, service bulletins, or ServiceNews articles on iN, create a Tech Line access code, then call Automobile Tech Line: 1. From the iN main menu, select Service, then select ISIS. 2. Under Search by Vehicle, enter the model, year, and enter a keyword like IMA or BATTERY, then select Search. 3. If you cannot repair the problem with the service information provided, select Tech Line Help. 4. The Tech Line access code screen appears. Fill in all the required fields, then select SUBMIT. 5. Have the access number ready when you call Tech Line. Question: Do I need a Tech Line reference number to order an IMA battery? Answer: No. Question: What year and model IMA batteries can I order through the IMA battery order program? Answer: All current models are available. Question: There are several numbers on the battery module, which one is the serial number? Page 1829 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 6685 First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 7588 62. Sunlight Sensor Locations 10. Middle of Engine Page 922 12. Oil Pressure Switch Page 8280 Wire Color Abbreviations Page 5368 Shift Interlock Solenoid: Service and Repair Shift Lock Solenoid Replacement 1. Remove the front console. 2. Disconnect the shift lock solenoid connector. 3. Pry the shift lock solenoid clamp (A) with a screwdriver, and remove it. 4. Remove the shift lock solenoid. 5. Install the shift lock solenoid plunger (B) and plunger spring (C) in the new shift lock solenoid (D). 6. Install the shift lock solenoid by aligning the joint of the shift lock solenoid plunger with the tip of the shift lock stop (E). 7. Secure the shift lock solenoid with the solenoid clamp. 8. Connect the shift lock solenoid connector. 9. Install the front console. Page 3858 18. Remove the EPS fuse from the under-hood fusel relay box. 19. With the transmission in neutral and the clutch released, run the engine at 3,500 rpm until the battery level indicator shows at least 50 percent charge. 20. Turn off the engine, then install the EPS fuse. 21. Enter the radio station presets, and set the clock. 22. Center-punch a completion mark above the sixth character of the engine compartment VIN. Page 3261 116. PGM-FI Main Relay And A/T Reverse Relay (CVT) Page 3209 ECM/PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector C (31P) Part 2 Locations 111. Top Rear of Battery Module Page 618 EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 2858 4. Remove the switch cover from the battery module, then remove the locking cover from the battery module switch. 5. Turn off the battery module switch. Reinstall the locking cover on the switch, and remove the 5 mm bolt on the side of the switch. 6. Wait at least 5 minutes to allow the capacitors to discharge. 7. Remove the three clips from the middle bulkhead carpet. 8. Remove the under-cover (two bolts, two clips, and three screw clips). Page 173 116. PGM-FI Main Relay And A/T Reverse Relay (CVT) Page 4529 Wire Color Coding Distinct Of Circuit By Wire Base Color All wires have color-coded insulation. Wires belonging to a system's main harness will have a single color. Wires belonging to a system's sub-circuits will have a colored stripe. Striped wires use the codes found in the chart to show wire size and colors. Abbreviations are used to indicate wire color within a circuit diagram. Wire Color Abbreviations The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics: WHT................................... White YEL................................... Yellow BLK................................... Black BLU................................... Blue GRN................................... Green RED................................... Red ORN................................... Orange PNK................................... Pink BRN................................... Brown GRY................................... Gray PUR................................... Purple LT BLU................................... Light Blue LT GRN................................... Light Green The wire insulation has one color or one color with another color stripe. The second color is the stripe. How to Identify Connector Terminals How to Identify Connector Terminals Page 6046 NO - Replace the neutral position switch. 16. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 17. Measure voltage between neutral position switch 2P connector terminal No.2 and body ground. Is there battery voltage? YES - Repair open in the wire between the neutral position switch and G101. NO - Repair open in the wire between the ECM (B16) and the neutral position switch. Locations Fuel Pump Relay: Locations Fuel Supply System - Relay Locations Locations Cabin Temperature Sensor / Switch: Locations Climate Control - Component Location Index Page 1005 Terminals - "T" Shielding Switches Fuses Page 9536 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 8522 Power Mirror Motor: Service and Repair Power Mirror Actuator Replacement 1. Remove the power mirror, and disconnect the connector. 2. Cut the wire harness with wire cutters. 3. Record the terminal locations and wire colors. 4. Remove the three screws, and separate the mirror housing (A) from the bracket (B). 5. Carefully remove the mirror holder (A) from the mirror housing (B). Gently pull it out by hand. Page 10030 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Locations Brake Booster Vacuum Sensor: Locations PGM-FI System - Component Location Index Page 9753 EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 4770 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 8920 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. Page 6969 8. Lower the jacks on the right and left evenly, and remove the springs (A) and upper spring cushions (B). 9. Remove the nuts (c) and bump stops (D). 10. Remove the brake drums and hub bearing units on the right and left side. 11. Disconnect the brake lines (A) from each wheel cylinder, remove the circlips (B) and flange bolts (C), then remove the spindles (D) and rear brake assemblies (E). 12. Remove the rear axle beam mounting bolts (A) on the right and left side, and remove the rear axle beam (B). 13. Install the rear axle beam in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: Page 4377 Crankshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation Camshaft Position (CMP) A and B (Top Dead Center (TDC) 1 and 2), and Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensors The CMPA (TDC 1) and CMPB (TDC 2) sensors detect the position of the No.1 cylinder as a reference for sequential fuel injection to each cylinder. The CKP sensor detects engine speed and determines ignition timing and timing for fuel injection of each cylinder. Page 1042 Connectors - "C" Page 8313 Trunk / Liftgate Switch: Testing and Inspection Hatch Lock Actuator/Latch Switch/Unlock Switch Test 1. Open the hatch and remove the rear trim panel. 2. Disconnect the 6P connector (A) from the hatch lock actuator (B). Actuator Test: 3. Check actuator operation by connecting battery power and grounding according to the table. To prevent damage to the actuator, apply battery voltage only momentarily. Latch Switch Test: 4. Check for continuity between terminal No. 3 and terminal No. 6. - With the hatch open, there should be continuity. - With the hatch closed, there should be no continuity. Unlock Switch Test: 5. Check for continuity between terminal No. 1 and terminal No. 2. - With the hatch unlocked, there should be continuity. - With the hatch locked, there should be no continuity. 6. If the tests don't work as specified, replace the hatch latch assembly. Page 9025 48. Left Side of Steering Column Page 8974 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. Page 2889 Failed Part: P/N 1K000-PHM-000 Defect Code: 03214 Symptom Code: 03205 Skill Level: Repair Technician INSPECTION PROCEDURE 1. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 2. Remove the cargo floor mat (see page 20-44 of the 2000-04 Insight Service Manual). (In ISIS, use the keyword FLOOR MAT, and select Interior Trim Removal/Installation - Cargo Area from the list.) 3. Remove the battery module switch cover (two bolts), then remove the locking cover from the switch. 4. Flip the battery module switch to OFF. Reinstall the locking cover. 5. Wait at least 5 minutes to let the capacitors in the system discharge. Page 8876 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 1761 Refrigerant: Service and Repair System Charging CAUTION: - Air conditioning refrigerant or lubricant vapor can irritate your eyes, nose, or throat. - Be careful when connecting service equipment. - Do not breathe refrigerant or vapor. Use only service equipment that is U.L.-listed and is certified to meet the requirements of SAE J2210 to remove HFC-134a (R-134a) from the air conditioning system. If accidental system discharge occurs, ventilate work area before resuming service. Additional health and safety information may be obtained from the refrigerant and lubricant manufacturers. 1. Connect a R-134a refrigerant recovery/recycling/charging station (A) to the high-pressure service port (B) and the low-pressure service port (C), as shown, following the equipment manufacturer's instructions. 2. Add the same amount of new refrigerant oil to the system that was removed during recovery. Use only SANDEN SP-10 refrigerant oil. 3. Charge the system with the specified amount of R-134a refrigerant. Do not overcharge the system; the compressor will be damaged. Refrigerant capacity: Select the appropriate units of measure for your refrigerant charging station. 500 to 550 g 0.50 to 0.55 kg 1.1 to 1.2 lbs 17.6 to 19.4 oz Page 8009 8. Reinstall the wiper motor connector retaining clip in the motor mounting bracket. 9. Route the sub-harness around the motor mounting bracket, then connect it to the hatch harness. 10. Attach the sub-harness ground lead to the motor mounting bracket. 11. Cover the sub-harness with the self-adhesive foam padding from the kit. 12. Remove the grounding clip from the wiper motor bracket mount. Torque the bolt to 9.8 Nm (7.2 lb-ft). 13. Center-punch a completion mark above the fourth character (Z) of the engine compartment VIN. Component Locations Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Component Locations Component Location Index Page 4775 5. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). Measure voltage between body ground and PGM-FI main relay (fuel pump) 4P connector terminal No.2, and between PGM-FI main relay (IGP) 4P connector terminal No.4. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 7. NO - Go to step 6. 6. Check for a blown No.2 (15 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box. Is the fuse blown? YES - Repair the short in the wire between PGM-FI main relay and the No.2 fuse. NO - Repair the open in the wire between the PGM-FI main relay and the No.2 (15 A) fuse. 7. Turn the ignition switch OFF, and disconnect ECM connector A (32P). 8. Check for continuity between PGM-FI main relay (fuel pump) 4P connector terminal No.3 and ECM connector terminal A15. Is there continuity? YES - Go to step 9. NO - Repair open in the wire between the PGM-FI main relay and the ECM (A15). 9. Reconnect ECM connector A (32P) and the PGM-FI main relay connectors. A/T - Do Not Remove Torque Converter From Mainshaft Torque Converter: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Do Not Remove Torque Converter From Mainshaft SOURCE: Honda Service News TITLE: Keep Torque Converter on Mainshaft to Avoid Damage APPLIES TO: All models SERVICE TIP: We can't emphasize enough how important it is to keep the torque converter in place when you're handling or installing a reman A/T. If the torque converter slips off the mainshaft, and you don't put it back on the shaft exactly right, you could cut the O-ring. This could result in loss of lock-up control and ATF leakage. Page 10188 Rear Window Defogger - Component Location Index Page 5736 Transmission Speed Sensor: Service and Repair Speed Sensors Replacement 1. Disconnect the connectors from the drive pulley speed sensor (A), the driven pulley speed sensor (B), and the CVT speed sensor (C). 2. Remove the 6 mm bolts, then remove the speed sensors. 3. Replace the O-rings (D) with new ones before installing the speed sensors. 4. Install the drive pulley speed sensor, driven pulley speed sensor, and CVT speed sensor. 5. Check the speed sensor connectors for rust, dirt, or oil, then connect the connectors securely. Page 3426 121. EGR Valve And EGR Valve Position Sensor Page 4475 Throttle Position Sensor: Description and Operation Throttle Position (TP) Sensor The TP sensor is a potentiometer connected to the throttle valve shaft. As the throttle position changes, the sensor varies the signal voltage to the ECM. The TP sensor is not replaceable apart from the throttle body. Page 7315 Condenser Fan Motor Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relay Test Normally-open type A: 1. Turn the battery module switch OFF, and measure the voltage. 2. Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is disconnected. A/C compressor clutch relay - Air fuel ratio sensor relay - Condenser fan relay - Daytime running lights relay (Canada) - Headlight relay 1 - Headlight relay 2 - High speed battery module fan control relay - High speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - High voltage conductor control relay - Horn relay - Ignition hold relay - Low speed battery module fan control relay - Low speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - Power window relay - Radiator fan relay - Rear window defogger relay - Reverse relay - Starter cut relay Page 4389 121. EGR Valve And EGR Valve Position Sensor Page 9389 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: Page 7291 EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 9382 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. Page 3183 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: Idle Control System Idle Speed: Description and Operation Idle Control System Idle Control System The idle speed of the engine is controlled by the IAC (idle air control) valve: - After the engine starts, the IAC valve opens for a certain time. The amount of air is increased to raise the idle speed. - When the engine coolant temperature is low, the IAC valve is opened to obtain the proper fast idle speed. The amount of bypassed air is controlled in relation to engine coolant temperature to maintain the proper idle speed. Recall - Emissions/ECM Replacement Technical Service Bulletin # 02-081 Date: 021217 Recall - Emissions/ECM Replacement 02-081 December 17, 2002 Applies To: 2000 Insight - ALL 2001 Insight with M/T - ALL Emissions Recall: Insight ECM BACKGROUND The ECM does not correctly identify all malfunctions of the air/fuel ratio sensor (sensor 1). Because of this, the vehicle does not meet state and federal emissions regulations. CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION All owners of affected vehicles will be mailed a notification of this campaign. The customer notification letter is shown in this service bulletin. CORRECTIVE ACTION Replace the ECM. After you replace the ECM, reinitialize the immobilizer system, and do the idle learn procedure. PARTS INFORMATION WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION Operation Number: 122124 Flat Rate Time: 1.0 hour Failed Part: P/N 37820-PHM-A01 H/C 6344626 Defect Code: 5BL Contention Code: L78 Skill Level: Repair Technician REPAIR PROCEDURE NOTE: Make sure you have all of your customer's keys. 1. Carefully remove the passenger's door sill trim. If you break any of the trim clips, replace them (P/N 91560-S06-003, H/C 6353502). Page 6426 Wires Diagrams 185. Idle Stop Switch (CVT) Page 2009 Wires Page 7968 NOTE: It is very important that you fill out this form fully and accurately. An accurate explanation of the problem and conditions helps the manufacturer to duplicate the problem, speeding the repair, and reducing the number of No Trouble Found" (NTF) units. Disclaimer Front Suspension Strut / Shock Absorber: Specifications Front TIGHTENING SPECIFICATIONS Damper Shaft Nut ................................................................................................................................ ................................ 44 N.m (4.5 kgf-m, 33 ft-lb) Upper Flange Nut .............................................................................................................................................................. 54 N.m (5.5 kgf-m, 40 ft. lbs.) Damper Pinch Bolt to knuckle ...................................................................................................................................... 98.1 N.m (10.0 kgf-m, 72.3 ft-lb) Damper Stabilizer Link Nut ................................................................................................................................................ 29 N.m (3.0 kgf-m, 22 lbf-ft) Tie-rod Nut .......................................................................................................... ............................................................... 43 N.m (4.4 kgf-m, 32 lbf-ft) Page 8847 A battery voltage (B+) circuit which is only powered with the ignition switch in the ON, or START positions. Initiator The electrical component inside the air bag assembly which, when sufficient current flows, sets off the chemical reaction that inflates the air bag. "Initiator Assembly Resistance Test" Tests performed once each ignition cycle when no malfunctions are detected during "Turn-ON" or "Continuous Monitoring." This test checks for the correct SDM configuration for the vehicle, shorts to "Ignition 1 in the deployment loops, high resistance or opens in the "Driver Side High", "Driver Side Low", "Passenger Side High" and "Passenger Side Low" circuits and measures the resistance of the inflator assembly consisting of: 1. Initiators. 2. SRS coil assembly (driver side only). 3. Connectors and associated wiring. Normal Operating Voltage Range The voltage measured between the SDM "Ignition 1" terminals and "Ground" terminals is between 9 and 16 volts. Passenger Current Source An output of the SDM which applies current into the passenger air bag assembly circuit during the "Initiator Assembly Resistance Test". Passenger Air Bag Assembly An assembly located in the right side of the instrument panel consisting of an inflatable bag, an inflator and an initiator. Scan Tool An external computer used to read diagnostic information from on-board computers via the data link connector. SDM Sensing and Diagnostic Module which provides reserve energy to the deployment loops, deploys the air bags when required and performs diagnostic monitoring of all SRS components. Serial Data Information representing the status of the SRS. SRS Supplemental Restraint System. SRS Coil Assembly An assembly of two current-carrying coils in the driver deployment loop that allows the rotation of the steering wheel while maintaining the continuous contact of the driver deployment loop to the driver air bag assembly. SRS Wiring Harness The wires and connectors that electrically connect the components in the SRS. "Turn-ON" Test which the SDM performs on the SRS once during each ignition cycle immediately after "Ignition 1" voltage is applied to the SDM and before "Continuous Monitoring". Page 4726 Fuel Pressure Regulator: Service and Repair Fuel Pressure Regulator Replacement M/T model: 1. Relieve the fuel pressure. 2. Disconnect the vacuum hose and fuel return hose. 3. Remove the two 6 mm retainer bolts (A) and the fuel pressure regulator (B). 4. Apply clean engine oil to a new O-ring (C), and carefully install it into its proper position. 5. Install the fuel pressure regulator and the 6 mm retainer bolts. 6. Reconnect the vacuum hose and fuel return hose. 7. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), but do not operate the starter. After the fuel pump runs for approximately two seconds, the fuel pressure in the fuel line rises. Repeat this two or three times, then check whether there is any fuel leakage. CVT model: 1. Remove the fuel pump. 2. Disconnect the tubes (A) from the fuel pressure regulator assembly (B). 3. Remove the pressure regulator bracket (C) and the fuel pressure regulator (D). 4. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal. Page 8733 Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution diagram set to get a more detailed picture of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Description and Operation Alarm System Transponder: Description and Operation Immobilizer Indicator Light Blinking Pattern With the ignition switch in ON (II) or START (III), the immobilizer receiver unit and the ECM receive an "ignition on" signal through fuse 7 and the PGM-FI main relay. The ECM then sends power to the ignition key transponder through the immobilizer receiver unit. The transponder then sends a coded signal back to the ECM through the receiver. Page 1351 Does the meter indicate pulsing voltage? YES - Replace the speedometer. NO - Repair open in the BLU/WHT wire between the VSS and the speedometer. Page 9060 Key Reminder Switch: Electrical Diagrams Lights-on, Key-in, And Seat Belt Reminders Image 73 Page 3991 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: Page 3246 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. Page 2111 Connecting Rod: Specifications Torque Specifications Connecting Rod Bolts Torque: 1st ........................................................................................................................................................ ........................ 9.8 Nm (1.0 kgf-m, 7.2 ft. lbs.) 2nd ............................................................................. ............................................................................................................................................. 90° Page 765 Wiper Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relay Test Five-terminal type: Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 5 terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 4 terminals when power is disconnected. - Fan control relay - Low beam cut relay (Canada) - Windshield wiper intermittent relay Page 6825 35. EPS Motor Page 123 30. Left Front Side of Engine Compartment Page 6491 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 7840 Diodes How to Identify Wiring Color-Coded Insulation Wire Color Page 3135 DTC P0A94 thru P0157 Page 9105 84. Middle of Floor Page 9684 46. Ignition Key Switch/Key Light Page 3685 Cavity Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity / terminal shown is # 6. Circuit Schematics Page 1349 Vehicle Speed Sensor: Testing and Inspection Vehicle Speed Signal Circuit Troubleshooting Special Tools Required: Test Harness 07LAJ-PT3020A Before testing, inspect the No. 4 (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box. 1. Disconnect the 3P connector from the VSS (vehicle speed sensor) (A). 2. Connect the test harness only to the engine wire harness. 3. Connect the RED test harness clip (B) to the positive prove of an ohmmeter. Cover the white (C) and green (D) test harness with protective tape (E). 4. Check for continuity between the RED test harness clip and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Go to step 5. NO - Repair open in the BLK wire between the VSS and G101. 5. Connect the WHT test harness clip (C) to the positive probe of a voltmeter, and connect the RED test harness clip (B) to the negative probe. 6. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 7. NO - Repair open in the BLK/YEL wire between the VSS and the under-dash fuse/relay box. 7. Disconnect the WHT test harness clip (C). Page 6366 Relay Box: Connector Locations Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box Page 4235 18. Remove the EPS fuse from the under-hood fusel relay box. 19. With the transmission in neutral and the clutch released, run the engine at 3,500 rpm until the battery level indicator shows at least 50 percent charge. 20. Turn off the engine, then install the EPS fuse. 21. Enter the radio station presets, and set the clock. 22. Center-punch a completion mark above the sixth character of the engine compartment VIN. Specifications Wheel Fastener: Specifications Wheel Lug Nut Torque: 79.6 ft. lbs. Page 10073 EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 3801 9. Connect the PGM Tester to the data link connector (DLC). 10. Use the PGM Tester to program the customer's immobilizer key codes into the ECM. Verity that all the keys will start the engine. 11. Center-punch a completion mark above the first character (J) of the engine compartment VIN. Disclaimer Page 8555 Mixing Ratio: Drying Time: 2. Sanding filler Spray the bumper primer on the area where the PP material was used. 3. Primer surfacer The primer surfacer is used to protect the PP resin surface and fill cavities or flaws before the intermediate coat and top coat. Use the 2-component type primer surfacer (gray). Mixing Ratio: 4. Intermediate coat and top coat Use the 2-part polyester urethane top coat. Top coat is also used for an intermediate coat. Mixing Ratio: Page 695 PARTS INFORMATION WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION NOTE: The IMA battery module warranty extension does not apply to any vehicle that has ever been declared a total loss, or any that has been issued a salvage, branded, or similar title under any state's law. Failed Part: P/N 1K000-PHM-000 Defect Code: 5KH00 Symptom Code: Q1600 Skill Level: Repair Technician REPAIR PROCEDURE NOTE: Do this procedure only if troubleshooting indicates a problem with the IMA battery module. 1. Turn the ignition switch to the LOCK (0) position. 2. Remove the cargo floor mat: ^ Refer to page 20-44 of the 2000-2006 Insight Service Manual, or ^ Online, enter keywords FLOOR MAT, then select Interior Trim Removal/Installation - Cargo Area from the list. Locations Power Door Locks - Component Location Index Page 1873 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 8986 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 10336 Example of Customer Letter April 2000 Product Update: Insight Radio Reception Dear Insight Owner: We have sent you this letter to notify you of a potential problem with your Insight and what you need to do to have it repaired. What is the problem? If you are listening to an AM radio station, you may hear static when you use the rear window wiper. This is caused by inadequate grounding of the rear window wiper motor. What should you do? Call your local Honda dealer and make an appointment to have your Insight updated. The dealer will add a ground to the rear window wiper motor. This update will be done free of charge. Please plan to leave your car at the dealer for half a day to allow them flexibility in scheduling. What to do if you feel this notice is in error. Our records show that you are the current owner or lessee of a 2000 Insight involved in this update. If this is not the case, or the name/address information is incorrect, please fill out and return the enclosed, postage-paid Information Change Card. This will help us update our records. If you have questions. If you have any questions about this notice, or need assistance with contacting a Honda dealer, please call the Honda Consumer Affairs Department at (800)999-1009. Thank you for your cooperation. Disclaimer Component Locations Climate Control - Component Location Index Page 4117 11. Lift out the battery module foam insert. 12. Remove the mounting bolts for the battery condition monitor (BCM) module and the motor control module (MCM). Disconnect the electrical connectors, then remove the modules. 13. Install the new BCM and MCM. Make sure all module connectors are secure. 14. Install the IPU lid. 15. Remove the locking cover from the battery module switch, install the 5 mm bolt, turn the switch on, reinstall the locking cover, and install the battery module switch cover. 16. Install the remaining parts in the reverse order of removal. 17. Reconnect the negative cable to the under-hood 12 V battery. Locations Starter Relay: Locations Under Dash Relay Box View Page 3560 Fuel Pressure: Service Precautions WARNING: Adhere to the following procedures any time the fuel system is being worked on in order to reduce the risk of fire and personal injury: - Keep a dry chemical (Class B) fire extinguisher near the work area. - Place a "CAUTION FLAMMABLE" sign in the work area. - Work in a well-ventilated area. Do not smoke, and keep sparks and open flames away. - Wear eye protection. - Use caution when working near the catalytic converter to prevent the possibility of burns or fire. (The temperatures within the converter can exceed 537 °C (1000 °F). - Relieve the fuel system pressure prior to disconnecting fuel system components. - Disconnect the negative battery cable except for tests where battery voltage is required. - Use a suitable container to store or catch fuel. - Do not replace fuel pipe with fuel hose. - Plug all disconnected fuel line fittings and hoses. - After making any fuel system repairs ALWAYS inspect for fuel leaks. Page 6906 Terminals - "T" Shielding Switches Fuses Page 2401 Spark Plug: Service and Repair Spark Plug Inspection/Replacement 1. Remove the spark plugs, and note which cylinder each one came from. 2. Inspect the electrodes and ceramic insulator. Burned or worn electrodes may be caused by: Advanced ignition timing - Loose spark plug - Insufficient cooling Fouled plug may be caused by: Retarded ignition timing - Oil in combustion chamber - Incorrect spark plug gap - Excessive idling/low speed running - Clogged air cleaner element - Deteriorated ignition coil 3. Do not adjust the gap of iridium tip plugs (A); replace the spark plug if the gap is out of specification. Electrode Gap: Standard (New): 1.0 - 1.1 mm (0.039 - 0.043 in.) Service Limit: 1.3 mm (0.051 in.) 4. Replace the plug at the specified interval, or if the center electrode is rounded (A). Page 6435 Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution diagram set to get a more detailed picture of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Page 9029 Wires Page 2741 9. Remove the Intelligent Power Unit (IPU) lid (six Torx bolts and 17 hex bolts). 10. Measure the voltage between the junction board terminals. There should be 10 volts or less. ^ If you have more than 10 volts, there is a problem in the IMA system. Look for and troubleshoot any DTCs before continuing. ^ If you have 10 volts or less, continue to step 11. 11. Lift the foam insert out of the battery module. Page 2731 Failed Part: P/N 1K000-PHM-000 Defect Code: 03214 Symptom Code: 03205 Skill Level: Repair Technician INSPECTION PROCEDURE 1. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 2. Remove the cargo floor mat (see page 20-44 of the 2000-04 Insight Service Manual). (In ISIS, use the keyword FLOOR MAT, and select Interior Trim Removal/Installation - Cargo Area from the list.) 3. Remove the battery module switch cover (two bolts), then remove the locking cover from the switch. 4. Flip the battery module switch to OFF. Reinstall the locking cover. 5. Wait at least 5 minutes to let the capacitors in the system discharge. Page 748 Relay And Control Unit Locations - Dashboard Page 2088 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 2479 Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Locations 17. Rear of Engine Page 2698 9. Remove the Intelligent Power Unit (IPU) lid (six Torx bolts and 17 hex bolts). 10. Measure the voltage between the junction board terminals. There should be 10 volts or less. ^ If you have more than 10 volts, there is a problem in the IMA system. Look for and troubleshoot any DTCs before continuing. ^ If you have 10 volts or less, continue to step 11. 11. Lift the foam insert out of the battery module. Page 8088 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. Page 8660 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 3532 Camshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation Camshaft Position (CMP) A and B (Top Dead Center (TDC) 1 and 2), and Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensors The CMPA (TDC 1) and CMPB (TDC 2) sensors detect the position of the No.1 cylinder as a reference for sequential fuel injection to each cylinder. The CKP sensor detects engine speed and determines ignition timing and timing for fuel injection of each cylinder. Page 2080 Variable Valve Timing Actuator: Diagnostic Aids Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Page 299 DISCLAIMER Page 7151 YES - Replace the mode control motor. NO - Repair the mode control linkage or doors. Page 6762 ^ If the wheels are pointed to the right, shorten the driver's side tie-rod, and lengthen the passenger's side. ^ If the wheels are pointed to the left, shorten the passenger's side tie-rod, and lengthen the driver's side. ^ Each 360° turn of the tie-rod equals about 8 mm of steering wheel adjustment. For example, a steering wheel is off-center by 4 mm with the front wheels pointed right (when the steering wheel is centered). To correct the off-center, shorten the driver's side tie-rod by a half-turn, and lengthen the passenger's side tie-rod by a half-turn. 4. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC. Technical Service Bulletin # SN030915 Date: 030901 Suspension - Drifting & Pulling At Highway Speeds SOURCE: Honda Service News September 2003 TITLE: Drifting and Pulling at Highway Speeds APPLIES TO: All Models SERVICE TIP: Got a customer complaining that the vehicle drifts or pulls when driving at highway speeds? Use this handy procedure to diagnose and repair the problem. NOTE: Before doing the procedure in this article, check ISIS for related S/Bs and other S/N articles for the model you're working on. 1. Check if your customer has original equipment wheels and tires and that the ride height hasn't been modified. - If the wheels, tires, and ride height are OK, go to step 2. - If the wheels or tires aren't original equipment or the ride height was modified, stop here. Aftermarket wheels or tires or a ride height that's been modified pose challenges that this article doesn't cover. Resolve these issues with your customer before going further. 2. Set the tire pressures to the recommended cold inflation values listed on the doorjamb sticker. 3. Find a straight stretch of 4-lane road where you can safely (and legally) go 60 mph for several minutes. Ideally, you want a road that's perfectly flat, but most roads have a crown that¡C■s anywhere from 1.5° to 1.75° so they can drain. Flat Road - While driving at 60 mph, use a stopwatch to time how long it takes to drift one full lane from center to center. Record the time. Repeat this, driving in the opposite direction to cancel the effects of wind, then average the two times you recorded. If the vehicle drifts one full lane from center to center in less than 6 seconds, go to step 4. If not, return the vehicle to your customer. Crowned Road - While driving at 60 mph, check if the vehicle climbs the crown. Do this for both a left- and right-crowned road. A drift to the right on a right-crowned road and a drift to the left on left-crowned road are considered normal. If the vehicle climbs the crown or it drifts to the right on a left crowned road, go to step 4. 4. Record the original toe, camber, and caster readings. On Passports, set the ride height to spec if needed. Refer to Ride Height Adjustment in S/B 99-043, Steering Wheel Shimmy or Chassis Vibration. 5. Loosen the subframe mounting bolts, and move the rear beam (it¡C■s the entire front subframe on some models) to get the maximum amount of caster and equal side-to-side camber. (As little as 0.4° of camber stagger can cause the vehicle to pull.) 6. Make sure the steering wheel is centered, then set the front and rear toe to the maximum toe-in spec. (Toe-in improves vehicle stability and reduces the tendency to drift or pull.) 7. Test-drive the vehicle on the same road you used earlier. - If the drift is now within spec, return the vehicle to your customer. - If the drift is still out of spec, go to step 8. 8. Swap the front and rear tires on each side of the vehicle, then adjust the tire pressures to the recommended cold inflation values listed on the doorjamb sticker. Page 3163 Page 2929 4. Flip the battery module switch to OFF, then reinstall the locking cover. 5. Wait at least 5 minutes for the capacitors in the system to discharge. 6. Remove the rear clips from the middle bulkhead carpet. 7. Remove the under-cover (two bolts, two clips, and three screw clips). 8. Remove the IPU (intelligent power unit) lid (six Torx bolts and 17 hex bolts). Page 3897 ECM Inputs and Outputs at Connector D (16P) Part 1 Page 3976 Wire Color Coding Distinct Of Circuit By Wire Base Color All wires have color-coded insulation. Wires belonging to a system's main harness will have a single color. Wires belonging to a system's sub-circuits will have a colored stripe. Striped wires use the codes found in the chart to show wire size and colors. Abbreviations are used to indicate wire color within a circuit diagram. Wire Color Abbreviations The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics: WHT................................... White YEL................................... Yellow BLK................................... Black BLU................................... Blue GRN................................... Green RED................................... Red ORN................................... Orange PNK................................... Pink BRN................................... Brown GRY................................... Gray PUR................................... Purple LT BLU................................... Light Blue LT GRN................................... Light Green The wire insulation has one color or one color with another color stripe. The second color is the stripe. How to Identify Connector Terminals How to Identify Connector Terminals Page 3393 Camshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair Replacement 1. Disconnect connectors from the camshaft position (CMP) sensor A (top dead center (TDC) sensor 1) and CMP sensor B (TDC sensor 2) Remove the CMP sensor A (TDC sensor 1) sensor (A) and the CMP sensor B (TDC sensor 2) sensor (B). 2. Install the CMP sensor A (TDC sensor 1) sensor and the CMP sensor B (TDC sensor 2) using new O-rings (C). Page 7702 Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Service Precautions Airbag Handling and Storage Airbag Handling and Storage Do not disassemble an airbag. It has no serviceable parts. Once an airbag has been deployed, it cannot be repaired or reused. For temporary storage of the airbag during service, please observe the following precautions. - Store the removed airbag with the pad surface up. Never put anything on the removed airbag. - Keep free from any oil, grease, detergent, or water to prevent damage to the airbag assembly. - Store the removed airbag on a secure, flat surface away from any high heat source (exceeding 200 °F/93 °C). - Never perform electrical inspections to the airbags, such as measuring resistance. - Do not position yourself in front of the airbag assembly during removal, inspection, or replacement. Page 3770 DTC P1679 thru P1860 Page 7171 52. Outside Air Temperature Sensor Page 9527 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: Capacity Specifications Engine Oil: Capacity Specifications Engine Oil Engine overhaul ................................................................................................................................... ............................................................. 3.0L (3.2 Qt) Oil change including oil filter ................................................................................................................ ........................................................... 2.5L (2.6 Qt) Oil change without oil filter ................................................................................................................... ........................................................... 2.3L (2.4 Qt) Page 5977 Electronic Brake Control Module: Testing and Inspection Page 2169 Valve Guide: Service and Repair For further information regarding this component and the system it is a part of, please refer to Cylinder Head Assembly; Service and Repair. Page 2640 CORRECTIVE ACTION Based on the model and/or model year, install the appropriate IMA repair kit or part. WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Turn the ignition switch to the LOCK (0 position). 2. Remove cargo floor mat: ^ Refer to page 20-44 of the 2000-2006 Insight Service Manual, or ^ Online, enter keywords FLOOR MAT, then select Interior Trim Removal/Installation - Cargo Area from the list. 3. Remove the battery module switch cover (two bolts), then remove the locking cover from the switch. Page 5235 Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Testing and Inspection Mode Switch Test 1. Remove the screws securing the mode switch, then remove the switch. 2. Disconnect the connector from the switch. 3. Check the S mode switch for continuity between connector terminals No. 3 and No. 5. There should be continuity while pressing the S mode switch, and no continuity when the switch released. 4. Check the D mode switch for continuity between connector terminals No. 1 and No. 5. There should be continuity while pressing the D mode switch, and no continuity when the switch is released. 5. If either switch is faulty, replace it. 6. If the switch is OK, but switch failure occurred, check and repair the wire harness on the mode switch circuit. Page 6420 Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box Page 6884 Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Service Precautions Airbag Handling and Storage Airbag Handling and Storage Do not disassemble an airbag. It has no serviceable parts. Once an airbag has been deployed, it cannot be repaired or reused. For temporary storage of the airbag during service, please observe the following precautions. - Store the removed airbag with the pad surface up. Never put anything on the removed airbag. - Keep free from any oil, grease, detergent, or water to prevent damage to the airbag assembly. - Store the removed airbag on a secure, flat surface away from any high heat source (exceeding 200 °F/93 °C). - Never perform electrical inspections to the airbags, such as measuring resistance. - Do not position yourself in front of the airbag assembly during removal, inspection, or replacement. Page 826 In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locater) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: - Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. Page 2019 Variable Valve Timing Solenoid: Diagnostic Aids Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Page 4502 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Page 3738 ECU Module Kit: P/N 06060-PHM-305, H/C 6912901 WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION Operation Number: 118121 Flat Rate Time: 0.8 hour Failed Part: P/N 1K100-PHM-010 H/C 6377170 Defect Code: 5AG Contention Code: L43 Template ID: 01-102A Skill Level: Repair Technician Disclaimer Repair Procedure 1. Write down the radio station presets. 2. Make sure the ignition switch is off, then disconnect the negative cable from the under-hood 12 V battery. 3. Remove the cargo floor mat and the cargo box (see page 20-43 of the 2000 Insight Service Manual). 4. Remove the battery module switch cover, then remove the locking cover from the switch. 5. Turn off the battery module switch. Reinstall the locking cover on the switch, and remove the 5 mm bolt on the side of the switch. 6. Wait at least 5 minutes for the capacitors in the system to discharge. Locations Page 382 DTC P1586 thru P1678 Page 1053 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: - Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest OHMS" range. Page 2599 4. Flip the battery module switch to OFF, then reinstall the locking cover. 5. Wait at least 5 minutes for the capacitors in the system to discharge. 6. Remove the rear clips from the middle bulkhead carpet. 7. Remove the under-cover (two bolts, two clips, and three screw clips). 8. Remove the IPU (intelligent power unit) lid (six Torx bolts and 17 hex bolts). Page 9790 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 9486 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Page 3125 DTC P1586 thru P1678 Page 9674 - Taillight relay Page 8818 First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 9379 Brake Lamp: Diagnostic Aids Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Page 6262 Auxiliary Power Outlet: Electrical Diagrams Accessory Power Socket - Circuit Diagram Wiring Diagrams Page 3983 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: - Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest OHMS" range. Page 7339 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. Page 8451 Remote Transmitter Quick Reference Guide 90-93 Accord, 92-93 Civic & Prelude, 93 Del SOL 1990-93 Accord (2-door and 4-door) with dealer-installed security system 1992-93 Civic with dealer-installed security system 1993 del Sol with dealer-installed security system 1992-93 Prelude with dealer-installed security system Programming the Transmitter NOTE: Page 2100 Variable Valve Timing Actuator: Electrical Diagrams Diagram 31 Diagrams: Other diagrams referred to by number (See Diagram ##-#, etc.) within these diagrams can be found at Diagrams by Number. See: Diagrams/Electrical Diagrams/Diagrams By Number Locations: Location photographs (references to PHOTOS) referred to within these diagrams can be found at Locations by Photo Number. See: Locations/Component Locations/Locations By Photo Number Connector Views: Connector terminal views (references to VIEWS) referred to within these diagrams can be found at Connector Views by View Number. See: Diagrams/Connector Views/Connector Views By View Number Page 9579 Dome Lamp: Testing and Inspection Ceiling Light/Spotlights Test/Replacement 1. Turn the ceiling light/spotlights switches OFF. 2. Carefully pry off the lens (A) with a small screwdriver. 3. Remove the two screws and the housing (B). 4. Disconnect the 4P connector (C) from the housing. 5. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table. 6. If the continuity is not as specified, check the bulbs. If the bulbs are OK, replace the light. 7. When installing the ceiling/spotlights housing, if the thread in the ET screw is worn out, use an oversized ET screw made specifically for this application. Page 9039 Key Reminder Switch: Diagnostic Aids Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Component Locations Brake Fluid Level Sensor/Switch: Component Locations Gauges - Component Location Index Page 6598 Multiple Junction Connector: Service and Repair Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Locations Power Door Locks - Component Location Index Page 8307 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. Locations Crankshaft Position Sensor: Locations PGM-FI System - Component Location Index Locations 10. Middle of Engine Specifications Crankshaft: Specifications Crankshaft Main journal diameter No.1, 4 journal ........................................................................................................................................ 39.982 40.006 mm (1.5741 - 1.5750 inch) No.2, 3 journal ........................................................................................................................................ 39.976 40.000 mm (1.5739 - 1.5748 inch) Rod journal diameter ..................................................................................................................................... 35.976 36.000 mm (1.4164 - 1.4173 inch) Rod/main journal taper Standard or New ............................................................................................................................................... 0.0040 mm (0.00016 inch) maximum Service Limit ........................................................................................ ................................................................................. 0.010 mm (0.0004 inch) Rod/main journal out-of-round Standard or New ............................................................................................................................................... 0.0025 mm (0.00010 inch) maximum Service Limit ........................................................................................ ..................................................................................... 0.45 mm (0.018 inch) End play Standard or New .................................................................................................................................................. 0.10 0.35 mm (0.004 - 0.014 inch) Service Limit ......................................................................................... ................................................................................ 0.045 mm (0.0018 inch) Runout Standard or New ....................................................................................................................................................... 0.03 mm (0.001 inch) maximum Service Limit .................................................................................... ......................................................................................... 0.04 mm (0.002 inch) Page 6759 1. Place the vehicle on a commercially available, computerized, four-wheel alignment rack, and record the following measurements. Follow the equipment manufacturer's instructions. NOTE: Enter each reading in decimal degrees. Example 30' = 0.50. 2. If any measurement is out of specification, inspect the front suspension for any damage. Repair any damaged parts before continuing your diagnosis. 3. Determine how the front wheel camber is affecting the pull. Pick the combination of left- and right-front camber that best matches the vehicle you are repairing, then note the camber thrust direction for that combination: NOTE: ^ If the camber of both front wheels is negative, but one wheel is grossly more negative than the other, the camber thrust direction will be opposite the wheel with more negative camber (for example, if the left-front wheel is more negative, the camber thrust direction is right). ^ If the camber of both front wheels is positive, but one wheel is grossly more positive than the other, the camber thrust direction will be the same as the wheel with more positive camber (for example, if the left-front wheel is more positive, the camber thrust direction is left). 4. Determine how the camber needs to be adjusted. 5. Adjust the camber as needed. Front Camber Adjustment, Double Wishbone Suspension Page 10317 Windshield Washer Switch: Service and Repair Wiper/Washer Switch Test/Replacement 1. Remove the steering column covers. 2. Disconnect the 14P connector (B) from the wiper/washer switch (A). 3. Remove the two screws, then pull out the switch. 4. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table. If the continuity is not as specified, replace the switch. Locations Knock Sensor: Locations PGM-FI System - Component Location Index Page 1559 ^ If the wheels are pointed to the right, shorten the driver's side tie-rod, and lengthen the passenger's side. ^ If the wheels are pointed to the left, shorten the passenger's side tie-rod, and lengthen the driver's side. ^ Each 360° turn of the tie-rod equals about 8 mm of steering wheel adjustment. For example, a steering wheel is off-center by 4 mm with the front wheels pointed right (when the steering wheel is centered). To correct the off-center, shorten the driver's side tie-rod by a half-turn, and lengthen the passenger's side tie-rod by a half-turn. 4. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC. Page 2348 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. Page 4831 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 9783 In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locater) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: - Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. Page 7539 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. Page 5952 Parking Brake Warning Switch: Diagrams 13. Parking Brake Switch 13. Parking Brake Switch Page 818 Terminals - "T" Shielding Switches Fuses Page 2026 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 8931 Driver/Vehicle Information Display: Testing and Inspection Fuel Consumption Display Select Switch Test/Replacement 1. Remove the instrument panel. 2. Disconnect the 6P connector (A) from the switch (B). 3. Remove the two screws and the switch. 4. Check for continuity between the No. 6 and No. 1 terminals when the switch is pushed. There should be continuity. 5. If the continuity check is not as specified, replace the switch. Page 8334 - If necessary, replace the damper housing, damper base, and wheelhouse B as an assembly. - Drill holes completely through the part because the replacement wheelhouse B and damper base will be attached by plug welding. Installation 1. Set the new damper housing, and front wheelhouse into position, and measure the front compartment diagonally. Check the body dimensions. 2. Tack weld the clamped position. 3. Check the front damper position. Temporarily install the hood, front fender, headlight, and front bumper, and check for differences in level and clearance. Make sure the body lines flow smoothly. 4. Perform the main welding Page 3678 Wire Color Abbreviations Page 597 Connectors - "C" Page 7958 5. Click Warranty Audio Order to view the Warranty Audio Order form. 6. Enter the VIN and the mileage, then click the Submit button to view the Warranty Audio Order form. Use the completed Audio/Navigation/RES Worksheet to help you answer the questions on the Warranty Audio Order form. Questions with a red asterisk (*) are required fields that you must answer to submit the form. Make sure the information is complete (17-digit VIN, etc.). This information is critical to the remanufacturing process. Screen # 2 of the form contains the problem description, condition information, and shared functions. Fill this section out with as much information as possible. Select one part number from the list provided, then click Submit. It is your responsibility to ensure the correct part number is selected based on color and application information. Specifications Flex Plate: Specifications Flex Plate 10 x 1.25 mm ....................................................................................................................................... .............................. 44 Nm (4.9 kgf-cm, 33 ft. lbs.) Page 707 Starter Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relay Test Normally-open type A: 1. Turn the battery module switch OFF, and measure the voltage. 2. Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is disconnected. A/C compressor clutch relay - Air fuel ratio sensor relay - Condenser fan relay - Daytime running lights relay (Canada) - Headlight relay 1 - Headlight relay 2 - High speed battery module fan control relay - High speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - High voltage conductor control relay - Horn relay - Ignition hold relay - Low speed battery module fan control relay - Low speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - Power window relay - Radiator fan relay - Rear window defogger relay - Reverse relay - Starter cut relay Page 4554 17. VTEC Solenoid Valve Page 9538 Dash Lights Brightness Controller - Circuit Diagram Page 9139 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. Page 4974 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Page 4353 11. Middle of Engine Removal and Installation Engine Control Module: Service and Repair Removal and Installation How to Remove the ECM for Testing NOTE: - Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the radio, then write down the frequencies for the radio's preset buttons before you disconnect the negative cable from the battery. - Enter the anti-theft code, then the customer's radio station presets, and set the clock after you reconnect the negative cable to the battery. 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. 2. Pull the passenger's side carpet back to expose the ECM (A). 3. Unbolt the ECM cover (B). 4. Lift the lower edge of the ECM cover off of the lower studs. Make sure the ECM is not touching the studs. 5. Lift the upper edge of the ECM cover enough to clear the upper studs, then pull the cover down away from the evaporator drain tube. 6. Unbolt the ECM from the cover. 7. Disconnect the ECM connectors. 8. Install the ECM in reverse order of removal. 9. Do the ECM idle learn procedure Page 7643 Air Bag: Service and Repair Front Passenger Airbag Spring-Loaded Lock Connector Spring-loaded Lock Connector Some SRS system connectors have a spring-loaded lock. Disconnecting 1. To release the lock, pull the spring-loaded sleeve (A) toward the stop (B) while holding the opposite half of the connector. Then pull the connector halves apart. Be sure to pull on the sleeve and not on the connector. Connecting 2. To reconnect, hold the pawl-side connector, and press on the back of the sleeve-side connector half in the direction shown. As the two connector halves are pressed together, the sleeve (A) is pushed back by the pawl. Do not touch the sleeve. 3. When the connector halves are completely connected, the pawl is released, and the spring-loaded sleeve locks the connector. Removal and Installation Passenger's Airbag Replacement Removal 1. Disconnect the battery negative cable, and wait at least 3 minutes before beginning work. Locations Wiper Switch: Locations Wipers/Washers - Component Location Index Page 562 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Specifications Thermostat: Specifications Thermostat Opening temperature Begins to open ..................................................................................................................................... .................................. 187 - 194°F (86 - 90°C) Fully open .................................................................. ........................................................................................................................... 212°F (100°C) Service and Repair Oil Pressure Switch (For Fuel Pump): Service and Repair VTEC Oil Pressure Switch Replacement 1. Disconnect the VTEC oil pressure switch connector, then remove the VTEC oil pressure switch (A). 2. Install the VTEC oil pressure switch using a new O-ring (B). Page 1113 First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 3352 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 6538 Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box Page 675 PARTS INFORMATION WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION NOTE: The IMA battery module warranty extension does not apply to any vehicle that has ever been declared a total loss, or any that has been issued a salvage, branded, or similar title under any state's law. Failed Part: P/N 1K000-PHM-000 Defect Code: 5KH00 Symptom Code: Q1600 Skill Level: Repair Technician REPAIR PROCEDURE NOTE: Do this procedure only if troubleshooting indicates a problem with the IMA battery module. 1. Turn the ignition switch to the LOCK (0) position. 2. Remove the cargo floor mat: ^ Refer to page 20-44 of the 2000-2006 Insight Service Manual, or ^ Online, enter keywords FLOOR MAT, then select Interior Trim Removal/Installation - Cargo Area from the list. Page 9803 Marker Lamp: Electrical Diagrams Diagram 110-8 Diagrams: Other diagrams referred to by number (See Diagram ##-#, etc.) within these diagrams can be found at Diagrams by Number. See: Diagrams/Electrical Diagrams/Diagrams By Number Locations: Location photographs (references to PHOTOS) referred to within these diagrams can be found at Locations by Photo Number. See: Locations/Component Locations/Locations By Photo Number Connector Views: Connector terminal views (references to VIEWS) referred to within these diagrams can be found at Connector Views by View Page 6503 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 5841 3. Attach the driveshaft on the drive motor assembly to the mounting yoke, making sure the center line of the driveshaft is level with the spindle nut on the wheel hub. 4. Set the lower toggle switch on the drive motor assembly to FWD (counterclockwise rotation) or REV (clockwise rotation). Setting Up and Adjusting the Brake Lathe Use Kwik-Way cutting bits, P/N KWY-109109223, and the holding screws that come with them. These bits are stamped KW and are available through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program (see ORDERING INFORMATION). Before you use the brake lathe, inspect the tips of the cutting bits with a magnifying glass to make sure the tips are not worn out. Each bit has three tips. If a tip is worn, rotate the bit, and use a new tip. A worn tip produces a poor finish and may cause chattering. Page 4501 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: Component Locations Keyless Entry Module: Component Locations 38. Under Left Side of Dash 43. Under Left Side of Dash (Honda Accessory) Page 6122 PARTS INFORMATION WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION NOTE: The IMA battery module warranty extension does not apply to any vehicle that has ever been declared a total loss, or any that has been issued a salvage, branded, or similar title under any state's law. Failed Part: P/N 1K000-PHM-000 Defect Code: 5KH00 Symptom Code: Q1600 Skill Level: Repair Technician REPAIR PROCEDURE NOTE: Do this procedure only if troubleshooting indicates a problem with the IMA battery module. 1. Turn the ignition switch to the LOCK (0) position. 2. Remove the cargo floor mat: ^ Refer to page 20-44 of the 2000-2006 Insight Service Manual, or ^ Online, enter keywords FLOOR MAT, then select Interior Trim Removal/Installation - Cargo Area from the list. Page 8376 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 3762 DTC P0158 thru P0400 Specifications Page 5005 Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow from power at the top of the diagram to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another for example is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors Page 3250 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 630 5. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). Measure voltage between body ground and PGM-FI main relay (fuel pump) 4P connector terminal No.2, and between PGM-FI main relay (IGP) 4P connector terminal No.4. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 7. NO - Go to step 6. 6. Check for a blown No.2 (15 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box. Is the fuse blown? YES - Repair the short in the wire between PGM-FI main relay and the No.2 fuse. NO - Repair the open in the wire between the PGM-FI main relay and the No.2 (15 A) fuse. 7. Turn the ignition switch OFF, and disconnect ECM connector A (32P). 8. Check for continuity between PGM-FI main relay (fuel pump) 4P connector terminal No.3 and ECM connector terminal A15. Is there continuity? YES - Go to step 9. NO - Repair open in the wire between the PGM-FI main relay and the ECM (A15). 9. Reconnect ECM connector A (32P) and the PGM-FI main relay connectors. Page 14 Terminals - "T" Shielding Switches Fuses Locations Idle Control System - Component Location Index Diagnostic Aids Engine Control Module: Diagnostic Aids Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Page 4509 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Page 10117 Splices Components Ground - "G" Page 148 Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution diagram set to get a more detailed picture of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Page 1933 Wheels: Testing and Inspection Wheel Runout Inspection 1. Raise the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper location. 2. Check for a bent or deformed wheel. 3. Set up the dial gauge as shown, and measure the axial runout by turning the wheel. Wheel axial runout: Standard: Front/rear: 0 - 0.7 mm (0 - 0.03 inch) Service limit: Front/rear: 1.5 mm (0.06 inch) 4. Reset the dial gauge to the position shown, and measure the radial runout. Wheel radial runout: Standard: Front/rear: 0 - 0.7 mm (0 - 0.03 inch) Service limit: Front/rear: 1.5 mm (0.06 inch) 5. If the wheel runout is out of specification, check the wheel bearing end play. 6. If the bearing end play is within the specification but the wheel runout is more than the service limit, replace the wheel. Page 5609 Mainshaft: Adjustments For further information regarding this component and the system that it is a part of, please refer to Manual Transmission/Transaxle; Service and Repair. Page 2499 Heater Control Valve Cable: Technical Service Bulletins A/C - Heater Blows Cold Air, A/C Blows Warm Air SOURCE: Honda Service News TITLE: Heater Blows Cold Air, A/C Blows Warm Air APPLIES TO: all A/C-equipped Honda models that use a heater valve cable. SERVICE TIP: Got a vehicle in your shop that blows cold air from the heater or warm air from the A/C ? The problem could just be the heater valve cable has slipped off the heater valve arm. There's a real easy fix for this problem. Slip the heater valve cable back onto the heater valve arm. Then cut yourself a 10 mm length of 3.5 mm vacuum hose and slide it onto the arm. This holds the cable on the arm nice and snug so it won't slip off. Page 9939 Diodes How to Identify Wiring Color-Coded Insulation Wire Color Page 6625 Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution diagram set to get a more detailed picture of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Locations Page 7270 Connectors - "C" Page 9782 Marker Lamp: Diagnostic Aids Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Page 4593 Evaporative Check Valve: Testing and Inspection EVAP Two Way Valve Test 1. Remove the fuel fill cap. 2. Remove the vapor line from the EVAP two-way valve (A), connect it to a T-fitting (B) from the vacuum gauge and the vacuum pump as shown. 3. Apply vacuum slowly and continuously while watching the gauge. The vacuum should stabilize momentarily at 0.8 - 2.1 kPa (6 - 16 mmHg, 0.2 - 0.6 in.Hg). If the vacuum stabilizes (valve opens) below 0.8 kPa (6 mmHg, 0.2 in.Hg) or above 2.1 kPa (16 mmHg, 0.6 in.Hg), install a new valve and retest. 4. Move the vacuum pump hose from the vacuum fitting to the pressure fitting, and move the vacuum gauge hose from the vacuum side to the pressure side (A) as shown. 5. Slowly pressurize the vapor line while watching the gauge. The pressure should be stabilize momentarily above 1.0 kPa (8 mmHg, 0.3 in.Hg). - If the pressure momentarily stabilizes (valve opens) above 1.0 kPa (8 mm Hg, 0.3 in.Hg), the valve is OK. - If the pressure stabilizes below 1.0 kPa (8 mmHg, 0.3 in.Hg), install a new valve and retest. Service and Repair Expansion Valve: Service and Repair The expansion valve is located on the evaporator core. Refer to the Evaporator Core/Case for service and repair. Locations Power Steering Relay: Locations Relay And Control Unit Locations - Dashboard 74. Under Right Side of Kick Panel Page 6723 NOTE: Do this repair procedure if, after doing step 10 of the test-drive, the vehicle pulled in the opposite direction after you swapped the front tires. 1. Swap wheels 2 and 4 on the passenger's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again. ^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 2, then go to step 3. ^ If the pull does not go away, put wheels 2 and 4 back to their original positions, and go to step 2. 2. Swap wheels 1 and 3 on the driver's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again. ^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 1, then go to step 3. ^ If the pull does not go away, use a known-good tire in position 1 and continue diagnosis. 3. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC. REPAIR PROCEDURE B Suspension - Drifting & Pulling At Highway Speeds Alignment: All Technical Service Bulletins Suspension - Drifting & Pulling At Highway Speeds SOURCE: Honda Service News September 2003 TITLE: Drifting and Pulling at Highway Speeds APPLIES TO: All Models SERVICE TIP: Got a customer complaining that the vehicle drifts or pulls when driving at highway speeds? Use this handy procedure to diagnose and repair the problem. NOTE: Before doing the procedure in this article, check ISIS for related S/Bs and other S/N articles for the model you're working on. 1. Check if your customer has original equipment wheels and tires and that the ride height hasn't been modified. - If the wheels, tires, and ride height are OK, go to step 2. - If the wheels or tires aren't original equipment or the ride height was modified, stop here. Aftermarket wheels or tires or a ride height that's been modified pose challenges that this article doesn't cover. Resolve these issues with your customer before going further. 2. Set the tire pressures to the recommended cold inflation values listed on the doorjamb sticker. 3. Find a straight stretch of 4-lane road where you can safely (and legally) go 60 mph for several minutes. Ideally, you want a road that's perfectly flat, but most roads have a crown that¡C■s anywhere from 1.5° to 1.75° so they can drain. Flat Road - While driving at 60 mph, use a stopwatch to time how long it takes to drift one full lane from center to center. Record the time. Repeat this, driving in the opposite direction to cancel the effects of wind, then average the two times you recorded. If the vehicle drifts one full lane from center to center in less than 6 seconds, go to step 4. If not, return the vehicle to your customer. Crowned Road - While driving at 60 mph, check if the vehicle climbs the crown. Do this for both a left- and right-crowned road. A drift to the right on a right-crowned road and a drift to the left on left-crowned road are considered normal. If the vehicle climbs the crown or it drifts to the right on a left crowned road, go to step 4. 4. Record the original toe, camber, and caster readings. On Passports, set the ride height to spec if needed. Refer to Ride Height Adjustment in S/B 99-043, Steering Wheel Shimmy or Chassis Vibration. 5. Loosen the subframe mounting bolts, and move the rear beam (it¡C■s the entire front subframe on some models) to get the maximum amount of caster and equal side-to-side camber. (As little as 0.4° of camber stagger can cause the vehicle to pull.) 6. Make sure the steering wheel is centered, then set the front and rear toe to the maximum toe-in spec. (Toe-in improves vehicle stability and reduces the tendency to drift or pull.) 7. Test-drive the vehicle on the same road you used earlier. - If the drift is now within spec, return the vehicle to your customer. - If the drift is still out of spec, go to step 8. 8. Swap the front and rear tires on each side of the vehicle, then adjust the tire pressures to the recommended cold inflation values listed on the doorjamb sticker. 9. Test-drive the vehicle on the same road you used earlier. - If the drift is now within spec, swap each rear tire back to the front, one at a time, and test-drive the vehicle on the same road you used earlier. Replace the bad tire, then return the vehicle to your customer. - If the drift is still out of spec after swapping the front and rear tires, go to step 10. 10. Test-drive a known-good donor vehicle on the same road you used earlier, and check its pull. 11. Swap all four tires from the donor vehicle with the tires on your customer¡C■s vehicle. Page 9332 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 907 Radiator Cooling Fan Temperature Sensor / Switch: Testing and Inspection Radiator Fan Switch Test NOTE: Bleed air from the cooling system after installing the radiator fan switch. 1. Remove the radiator fan switch from the thermostat cover. 2. Suspend the radiator fan switch (A) in a container of water as shown. 3. Heat the water, and check the temperature with a thermometer. Do not let the thermometer (B) touch the bottom of hot container. 4. Measure the continuity between the terminal 1 and terminal 2 according to the table. Page 5984 22. Left Rear of Engine Compartment Page 5959 79. Brake Booster Vacuum Sensor Locations EVAP System - Component Location Index Locations Shift Interlock Solenoid: Locations 132. Valve Body (Remove) (CVT) 133. Middle of Floor (CVT) Locations Crankshaft Position Sensor: Locations PGM-FI System - Component Location Index Component Locations Relay Box: Component Locations 28. Left Front Side of Engine Compartment 33. Underside of Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box Page 7063 5. Lower the vehicle onto the stands. Page 4737 Page 1106 Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution diagram set to get a more detailed picture of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Page 2351 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 6496 EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: PGM-FI Main Relay Circuit Troubleshooting Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Testing and Inspection PGM-FI Main Relay Circuit Troubleshooting PGM-FI Main Relay Circuit Troubleshooting 1. Turn the ignition switch OFF, then disconnect the PGM-FI main relay connectors. 2. Check for continuity between body ground and PGM-FI main relay diode 2P connector terminal No.2. Is there continuity? YES - Go to step 3. NO - Repair open in the wire between the PGM-FI main relay and G101. 3. Measure voltage between body ground and PGM-FI main relay (IGP) 4P connector terminal No.2. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 5. NO - Go to step 4. 4. Check for a blown No.7 (15 A) fuse in the underhood fuse/relay box. Is the fuse blown? YES - Repair the short in the wire between the PGM-FI main relay and the No.7 (15 A) fuse. NO - Repair the open in the wire between the PGM-FI main relay and the No.7 (15 A) fuse. Technician Safety Information IMA Motor: Technician Safety Information High Voltage Safety ELECTRIC SHOCK POTENTIAL Unprotected contact with any electrically charged (hot or live) high-voltage component can cause serious injury or death. However, receiving an electric shock from a Honda hybrid is highly unlikely because of these facts: - Contact with the battery module or other components inside the battery box can occur only if the box is damaged and the contents are exposed, or the box is opened without following proper precautions. - Contact with the electric motor can occur only after one or more components are removed. - The high-voltage cables can be easily identified by their distinctive orange color, and contact with them can be avoided. It's also important to understand that there are only two situations in which the cables can potentially be hot in a Honda Insight or a Civic Hybrid: 1. The ignition switch is on, the engine is running, and the vehicle is accelerating. In this case, the high-voltage battery module is sending current to the motor. 2. The ignition switch is on, the engine is running, and the vehicle is decelerating. In this case, the motor is generating electric current and sending it to the battery module. Page 6928 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. Page 8778 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: - Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest OHMS" range. Page 6444 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 5669 8. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). Move the shift lever through all gear positions, and check the transmission range switch synchronization with the A/T gear position indicator. 9. Check that the engine can start in the [P] and [N] positions, and cannot start in any other shift lever position. 10. Check that the back-up lights come on when the shift lever is in the [R] position. 11. Allow the wheels to rotate freely, then start the engine, and check the shift lever operation. Page 1884 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 8381 EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 3446 Intake Air Temperature Sensor: Description and Operation Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor The IAT sensor is a temperature dependent resistor (thermistor). The resistance of the thermistor decreases as the intake air temperature increases. Page 7391 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 7514 Connectors - "C" Page 1858 Terminals - "T" Shielding Switches Fuses Page 2430 17. Install the upper radiator hose (A) and connecting pipes (B) using new O-rings (C). 18. Install the throttle body. 19. Install the heater hoses. 20. Install the harness holder mounting bolts (A), MAP sensor bracket mounting bolt (B), and ground cable (C). Page 7771 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 9266 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 7642 2. Connect the cable reel 2P connector to the driver's airbag 2P connector (A), then install the access panel (B) on the steering wheel. 3. Connect the battery negative cable. 4. After installing the airbag, confirm proper system operation: - Turn the ignition switch ON (II); the SRS indicator should come on for about 6 seconds and then go off. - Make sure the horn works. Page 1014 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: - Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest OHMS" range. Page 7667 7. Remove the screws (A) from the cable reel, then remove the cable reel from the column. Installation 1. Before installing the steering wheel, align the front wheels straight ahead. 2. Disconnect the battery negative cable, and wait at least 3 minutes. 3. Set the cancel sleeve (A) so that the projections (B) are aligned vertically. 4. Carefully install the cable reel (A) on the steering column shaft. Then connect the 4P connector (B) to the cable reel, and connect the 2P connector (C) to the floor wire harness. 5. Install the steering column covers. Page 6586 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. Locations 14. Top of Transmission Page 5484 Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Testing and Inspection Mode Switch Test 1. Remove the screws securing the mode switch, then remove the switch. 2. Disconnect the connector from the switch. 3. Check the S mode switch for continuity between connector terminals No. 3 and No. 5. There should be continuity while pressing the S mode switch, and no continuity when the switch released. 4. Check the D mode switch for continuity between connector terminals No. 1 and No. 5. There should be continuity while pressing the D mode switch, and no continuity when the switch is released. 5. If either switch is faulty, replace it. 6. If the switch is OK, but switch failure occurred, check and repair the wire harness on the mode switch circuit. Page 6135 11. Use the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) with version 1.011.014 or later software to clear any set DTCs. 12. Reinstall the IPU lid and the mid-frame cover bolts. Torque the bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb-ft). 13. Reinstall the right trunk shelf support. Torque the bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb-ft). 14. Remove the battery module switch locking cover, and flip the switch to ON. Reinstall the locking cover. 15. Reinstall the battery module switch cover. 16. Reinstall the cargo floor mat. 17. Return the vehicle to your customer. Advise your customer that it is OK to drive the vehicle as is until the replacement parts arrive, but the vehicle will have reduced power (no IMA assist). 18. Order a battery module and, if needed, a BCM, an MCM, or both. REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Remove the battery module from the vehicle (see page 12-113 of the service manual). (In ISIS, use the keyword BAT MOD, and select Battery Module Removal/Installation from the list.) 2. Remove the lifting tool from the battery module. 3. Remove the mounting bolts for the MCM and the BCM (eight total). Unplug the electrical connectors (five for the MCM and three for the BCM), then remove the modules. 4. Install the MCM and the BCM in the new battery module. Use the original MCM and BCM if no replacement was needed; otherwise, use the appropriate replacement parts. Torque the mounting bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb-ft). 5. Install the lifting tool on the battery module. 6. With someone to help you, carefully lift the battery module into the vehicle, and set it down into position. Remove the lifting tool. 7. Plug in the connectors, and install the Y condenser harness. Then install the mounting bolts. Torque the bolts to 24 N.m (17 lb-ft). 8. Install the battery module air duct. Torque the bolt to 9.8 N~m (7.2 lb-ft). 9. Connect the high voltage cables to the junction board. Torque the bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb-ft). 10. Install the front and rear IPU braces and the mid-frame. Torque the bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb-ft). 11. Install the foam inserts. Page 6608 39. Upper Left Kick Panel Area Page 3413 29. CKP Sensor Page 8860 Terminals - "T" Shielding Switches Fuses Page 8372 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. Page 7915 Programming the Transmitter NOTES: ^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased. ^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the programming mode. ^ You must complete each step within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from exiting the programming mode. Program the transmitters within 10 seconds. 1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter can be used for this step.) 3. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 4. Repeat steps 1 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2. 5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode. 7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted the transmitter's code. 8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda using normal parts ordering procedures. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery. 99-04 Odyssey EX 1999-00 Odyssey EX with factory-installed keyless entry system or dealer-installed security system *2001-04 Odyssey EX models with factory- installed security system* *Transmitter Identification Page 5510 3. Remove the center caps (A), wheel nuts (B), and front wheels (C) 4. Lift up the locking tab (D) on the spindle nut (E), then remove the nut. 5. Drain the MTF. Refer to Manual Transmission/Transaxle; Manual Transmission Fluid; Service and Repair. 6. Hold the stabilizer ball joint pin (A) with a hex wrench (B), and remove the flange nut (C). Separate the front stabilizer link (D) and front stabilizer (E). 7. Remove the brake hose clamp (A) and ABS wheel sensor harness clamp (B). Page 22 In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locater) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: - Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. Page 8794 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Page 1138 Parking Brake Warning Switch: Diagrams 13. Parking Brake Switch 13. Parking Brake Switch Page 9470 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: - Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest OHMS" range. Page 6697 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Page 9945 Door Switch: Diagnostic Aids Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Diagram Information and Instructions Dimmer Switch: Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System Terminal Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown below is #6. Page 9466 All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416 etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector or by a capital letter (A, B, C etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Connector Views that shows the connector terminals wire colors connector cavity numbers and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints shown on diagram [8] . Except for the DLC (data link connector) disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554 for example means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Page 115 Relay And Control Unit Location - Engine Compartment Page 399 DTC P0158 thru P0400 Page 9845 Parking Lamp: Electrical Diagrams Diagram 110-8 Diagrams: Other diagrams referred to by number (See Diagram ##-#, etc.) within these diagrams can be found at Diagrams by Number. See: Diagrams/Electrical Diagrams/Diagrams By Number Locations: Location photographs (references to PHOTOS) referred to within these diagrams can be found at Locations by Photo Number. See: Locations/Component Locations/Locations By Photo Number Connector Views: Connector terminal views (references to VIEWS) referred to within these diagrams can be found at Connector Views by View Page 1885 Relay Box: Connector Views 174. Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box Part 1 Page 8908 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: - Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest OHMS" range. Page 6777 1. Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper location. Remove the front wheels. 2. Loosen the damper pinch bolts (A), and adjust the camber by moving the bottom of the damper within the range of the damper pinch bolt free play. 3. Tighten the bolts to the specified torque. 4. Reinstall the front wheels. Lower the front of the vehicle to the ground, and bounce the vehicle several times to stabilize the suspension. 5. Check the camber angle. If it is within the specification, check the front toe. If it is not within the specification, go to step 6. 6. Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper location. Remove the front wheels. 7. Replace the damper pinch bolts with the adjusting bolts (A), and adjust the camber angle. NOTE: The camber angle can be adjusted up to ± 30' (center of tolerance) by replacing one damper pinch bolt with the adjusting bolt. The camber angle can be adjusted up to 1°00' by replacing both damper pinch bolts with the adjusting bolts. 8. Tighten the bolts to the specified torque. 9. Reinstall the front wheels, and torque the wheel nuts to 108 Nm (11.0 kgf-m, 80 ft. lbs.). 10. Lower the vehicle to the ground, and bounce the front of the vehicle several times to stabilize the suspension. 11. Check the camber angle. If it is within the specification, check the front toe, and adjust it if necessary. If the camber angle is not within the specification, readjust it, and recheck. If the camber angle cannot be adjusted to the specification, check for bent or damaged suspension components. Rear Camber Inspection Use commercially-available computerized four wheel alignment equipment to measure wheel alignment (caster, camber, toe, and turning angle). Follow the equipment manufacturer's instructions. Check the camber angle. If the camber angle is not within the specification, check for bent or damaged suspension components. Rear camber angle: - 1°00' ± 1° Front Toe Inspection/Adjustment Use commercially-available computerized four wheel alignment equipment to measure wheel alignment (caster, camber, toe, and turning angle). Follow the equipment manufacturer's instructions. 1. Center the steering wheel spokes. 2. Check the toe. If it is not within the specification, go to step 3. Front toe-in: 0 ± 2 mm (0 ± 1/16 inch) Service and Repair Shift Linkage: Service and Repair Gearshift Mechanism Replacement NOTE: IMA system wires are located in this area. Make sure you read the Service Precautions in the IMA system section before performing repairs or service. 1. Turn the battery module switch OFF, and measure the voltage. 2. Repair or replace the gearshift mechanism components as needed. Diagram Information and Instructions Auxiliary Power Outlet: Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System Terminal Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown below is #6. Page 6675 Cavity Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity / terminal shown is # 6. Circuit Schematics Page 6234 Terminals - "T" Shielding Switches Fuses Locations Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor: Locations PGM-FI System - Component Location Index Page 5345 Is there about 5 V? YES - Replace the clutch pedal position switch. NO - Go to step 9. 9. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 10. Disconnect ECM connector B (25P). 11. Check for continuity between ECM connector terminal B14 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Repair short in the wire between the ECM (B14) and the clutch pedal position switch. NO - Update the ECM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM, replace the original ECM. 12. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 13. Disconnect the clutch pedal position switch 2P connector. 14. Check for continuity between clutch pedal position switch 2P connector terminals No.1 and No.2 with the clutch pedal pressed. Is there continuity? YES - Go to step 15. NO - Adjust the clutch pedal position switch. 15. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). Page 4216 DTC P1586 thru P1678 Page 9798 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. Page 9826 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: - Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest OHMS" range. Page 8787 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Page 8560 3. Polishing Check the top coat enamel has dried thoroughly, then sand the top coat enamel. Use a flexible block and #600-#800-#1000 sandpaper. NOTE: Be careful not to sand down to the primer surfacer. When the painting repair is almost complete, polish the top coat. use #1500 sandpaper and compound. 4. Air blowing/degreasing Use alcohol, a tack cloth, and wax and grease remover. Clean and degrease the surfaces where the masking tape will be attached. Top Coating Top Coating 1. Masking Mask the area surrounding the damage to prevent overspray of the top coat. Use masking tape and paper. 2. Spraying top coat enamel / clear coat Spray 2-3 coats in double coat until the intermediate coat is fully covered. NOTE: Do not cover the surface with one heavy coat. - Apply several thin coats. - Use the 2-part polyester urethane top coat enamel and a spray gun. - Mix the top coat enamel with the additive and solvent, and in the correct ratio. - Follow the top coat manufacturer's instructions. After spraying the top coat enamel, allow for 5-10 minutes drying time before you spray the clear coat. Drying Page 3058 9. Connect the PGM Tester to the data link connector (DLC). 10. Use the PGM Tester to program the customer's immobilizer key codes into the ECM. Verity that all the keys will start the engine. 11. Center-punch a completion mark above the first character (J) of the engine compartment VIN. Disclaimer Page 405 DTC P1486 thru P1585 Page 4403 Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor: Description and Operation Fuel Tank Pressure (FTP) Sensor The FTP sensor converts fuel tank absolute pressure into an electrical input to the ECM. Page 4260 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. Page 5012 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 5519 1. Remove the set ring (A) from the inboard joint. 2. Remove the boot bands. Take care not to damage the boot and dynamic damper. - If the boot band is welded type or a low profile type, cut the boot band (A). - If the boot band is a double loop type (B), lift up the band bend (C), and push it into the clip (D). Welded Type Double Loop Type 3. Make a mark (A) on each roller (B) and inboard joint (C) to identify the locations of rollers and grooves in the inboard joint. Then remove the inboard joint on the shop towel (D). Be careful not to drop the rollers when separating them from the inboard joint. Page 2330 All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416 etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector or by a capital letter (A, B, C etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Connector Views that shows the connector terminals wire colors connector cavity numbers and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints shown on diagram [8] . Except for the DLC (data link connector) disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554 for example means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Locations Door Switch: Locations 85. Left B-pillar 90. Right B-pillar Page 9737 Cavity Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity / terminal shown is # 6. Circuit Schematics Page 2307 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Page 9355 Backup Lamp Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relay Test Normally-open type A: 1. Turn the battery module switch OFF, and measure the voltage. 2. Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is disconnected. A/C compressor clutch relay - Air fuel ratio sensor relay - Condenser fan relay - Daytime running lights relay (Canada) - Headlight relay 1 - Headlight relay 2 - High speed battery module fan control relay - High speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - High voltage conductor control relay - Horn relay - Ignition hold relay - Low speed battery module fan control relay - Low speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - Power window relay - Radiator fan relay - Rear window defogger relay - Reverse relay - Starter cut relay Page 4300 Relay And Control Unit Locations - Dashboard Page 7962 ^ ALO/BOA - Your order has been allocated, but not released for shipment. ^ REL/BOR - Your order has been picked, packed, and shipped. ^ INV - Your order has been invoiced to your dealer parts account. CORE RETURN INFORMATION Service Technician: 1. If the customer's media (CD, CD magazine, DVD, DVD-A, or cassette tape) is stuck inside the faulty unit, fill out a Customer Media Return Label (reorder number Y0325), and attach it to the unit. The manufacturer will remove the media, and mail it back to your dealership. 2. Use the pre paid shipping label. Each audio supplier provides a prepaid shipping label with the remanufactured audio unit. Return the core using this label to ensure it is received at the appropriate location for credit. Use the pre paid shipping labels to return audio cores to authorized locations only; do not use them for any other purpose. If you need additional prepaid shipping labels, contact Remanufactured Parts Operations. ^ Complete the shipping label with your dealership information. ^ Pack one audio unit per box, and use a separate shipping label for each one. ^ On the line requesting Your Internal Reference Information, enter YOUR DEALER NUMBER and the WARRANTY CLAIM NUMBER. 3. On the repair order, write down the warranty claim number, the original part number, the serial numbers from both the faulty and remanufactured units, and the return tracking number. 4. Ship the faulty unit in the same box the remanufactured unit came in. Make sure you include this required paperwork: ^ A copy of the Core Return Update Acknowledgement from the iN. ^ A copy of the warranty audio order. NOTE: When the Remanufacturing Center gets the faulty unit, your warranty audio order will be updated to indicate that the core was received. If the core is received 31-60 days from the order date, and you have been debited a core loss charge, your dealership will be credited back, less a $250 late fee. OUT-OF-WARRANTY REPAIR (AUDIO, NAVIGATION, AND RES UNITS PRODUCED IN 1998 OR LATER) NOTE: If you are making a repair or exchange because of a service bulletin or service campaign, do not use OUT-OF-WARRANTY procedures. Refer to IN-WARRANTY EXCHANGE for more information. Service Advisor: 1. Give your customer an estimate for repairing the unit (see step 6), plus the labor cost to replace it. For an Alpine unit, your customer has the option of contacting Alpine Electronics directly. Alpine's customer service number is 800-421-2284, Ext. 860304. Service Technician: 2. Remove the failed unit: ^ Refer to the appropriate component section of the service manual or, Page 10031 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 9875 Headlamp Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relay Test Normally-open type A: 1. Turn the battery module switch OFF, and measure the voltage. 2. Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is disconnected. A/C compressor clutch relay - Air fuel ratio sensor relay - Condenser fan relay - Daytime running lights relay (Canada) - Headlight relay 1 - Headlight relay 2 - High speed battery module fan control relay - High speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - High voltage conductor control relay - Horn relay - Ignition hold relay - Low speed battery module fan control relay - Low speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - Power window relay - Radiator fan relay - Rear window defogger relay - Reverse relay - Starter cut relay Page 939 Ambient Temperature Sensor / Switch HVAC: Testing and Inspection Outside Air Temperature Sensor Test Dip the sensor in ice water, and measure the resistance. Then pour hot water on the sensor, and check for a change in resistance. Compare the resistance reading between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals of the outside air temperature sensor with the specifications shown in the graph; the resistance should be within the specifications. Page 8977 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 10209 Front Door Window Motor: Connector Locations 76. In Front of Driver's Door 78. In Front of Passenger's Door Page 5734 Transmission Speed Sensor: Locations 13. Middle of Engine 15. Front Top of Transmission Page 8235 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Page 6677 All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416 etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector or by a capital letter (A, B, C etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Connector Views that shows the connector terminals wire colors connector cavity numbers and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints shown on diagram [8] . Except for the DLC (data link connector) disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554 for example means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Page 7974 ^ For warranty repairs, go to the IN-WARRANTY EXCHANGE procedure. ^ For vehicle service contract (VSC) and certified used car (CUC) repairs, call. ^ For goodwill repairs, contact your dealership's District Parts and Service Manager (DPSM). IN-WARRANTY EXCHANGE Service Technician: NOTE: ^ Use the iN to order a remanufactured audio, navigation, or RES unit. Do not call the Remanufactured Parts Dealer Service Group. ^ A Tech Line reference number is not required to submit the order. Check Yes, and enter the Reference Number only when there is a preexisting Tech Line contact. 1. With your completed Audio/Navigation/RES Worksheet, go to an iN workstation. 2. From the iN main menu, click on SERVICE, then click on AUDIO, then select Warranty Audio Order. 3. Select the model, year, and keyword (AUDIO, NAVIGATION, or RES) for the vehicle you are working on, then click on Search. 4. Review all displayed publications for additional repair information. If you cannot repair the problem, go to step 5. Page 1279 PGM-FI System - Component Location Index Page 9256 All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416 etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector or by a capital letter (A, B, C etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Connector Views that shows the connector terminals wire colors connector cavity numbers and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints shown on diagram [8] . Except for the DLC (data link connector) disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554 for example means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Page 1818 Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box Page 827 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: - Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest OHMS" range. Page 3864 PARTS INFORMATION Engine Control Module: P/N 06380-PHM-A00, H/C 6441117 WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Carefully remove the passenger's side door sill trim. 2. Remove the two carpet hold-down clips on the door sill. 3. Remove the carpet hold-down clip in the passenger's footwell under the glove box. Pull back the carpet. 4. Remove the ECM cover mounting nuts. 5. Pivot the lower edge of the ECM cover off the mounting studs. Lift the upper edge of the cover off the mounting studs, then pull the cover down and back so it clears the evaporator drain tube. 6. Remove the two bolts mounting the ECM to the cover. Disconnect the ECM connectors. 7. Install the new ECM in the reverse order of removal. 8. Reinstall the carpet and the door sill trim. Page 2294 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. Page 3259 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Page 7068 ^ Reversible drill motor (800 RPM MAX) ^ Tire spreader ^ Inspection lamp * For repairable injuries that exceed 25 degrees TIRE REPAIR GUIDELINES Never repair tires worn below 2/32 inch of tread. Never repair a tire without removing the tire from the wheel for internal inspection. Never repair a tire with a tread injury larger than 1/4 inch (6 mm). Never use only a plug (stem) or a patch only to repair a tire injury. NOTE: If the angle of the tire injury exceeds 25 degrees, you must use the two-piece repair system as recommended by the RMA. MICHELIN PAX SYSTEM SUPPORT RING INSPECTION PAX System support rings are not repairable, under any circumstances, but they can be reused if no damage is found during a thorough inspection. If a PAX System tire ran flat or underinflated, dismount the tire from the wheel and inspect the wheel, tire, and support ring for damage. Refer to the Michelin PAX Support Rings Technical Bulletin in ISIS. Enter SEARCH BY PUBLICATION, select Job Aids, then select Michelin PAX Support Rings Technical Bulletin from the list. Disclaimer Page 6241 Auxiliary Power Outlet: Diagnostic Aids Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Page 2217 12. Oil Pressure Switch Page 9277 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 4544 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: Page 7326 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: - Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest OHMS" range. Page 4202 ^ If you still cannot hear the solenoid valve click or feel it tap when activated, continue with normal troubleshooting. 15. Insight only: Disconnect the PGM Tester, and return the vehicle to your customer. 16. All other affected models: Use the PGM Tester to run the EVAP system function test (see S/B 02-007, EVAP System Function Testing and Diagnostics With the PGM Tester). ^ If the EVAP system passes the function test, disconnect the PGM Tester, and return the vehicle to your customer. ^ If the EVAP system fails the function test, continue with normal troubleshooting. Disclaimer Page 608 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: - Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest OHMS" range. Page 1350 8. Connect the GRN test harness clip (D) to the positive probe of a voltmeter. Is there 5 V or more? YES - Go to step 9. NO - Repair short in the BLU/WHT wire between the VSS and the ECM. 9. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 10. Connect the other test harness connector (A) to the VSS (B). 11. Raise the front of the vehicle, and make sure it is securely supported. 12. Put the vehicle in neutral with the ignition switch ON (II). 13. Slowly rotate one wheel with the other wheel blocked. Does voltage pulse from 0 to approx. 5 V or more? YES - Go to step 14. NO - Replace the VSS. 14. Disconnect the 30P connector "A" from the gauge assembly. 15. Connect a voltmeter between the BLU/WHT wire and body ground. 16. Slowly rotate one wheel with the other wheel blocked. Page 7778 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Page 8965 Cavity Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity / terminal shown is # 6. Circuit Schematics Page 259 First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 9796 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. Page 9271 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. Page 5223 Shift Interlock Switch: Service and Repair Park Pin Switch Replacement 1. Remove the front console. 2. Remove the A/T gear position indicator panel light, and remove the bulb (A) from the socket (B). 3. Separate the A/T gear position indicator panel from the shift lever bracket base (C). 4. Disconnect the park pin switch connector (D), and remove it from the bracket base. 5. Remove the park pin switch clamp (E) and the park pin switch (F). 6. Install the new park pin switch in the shift lever bracket base, and install the park pin switch clamp to secure it. 7. Install the removed parts in the reverse order of removal. Locations Shift Interlock Solenoid: Locations 132. Valve Body (Remove) (CVT) 133. Middle of Floor (CVT) Page 4356 Camshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair Replacement 1. Disconnect connectors from the camshaft position (CMP) sensor A (top dead center (TDC) sensor 1) and CMP sensor B (TDC sensor 2) Remove the CMP sensor A (TDC sensor 1) sensor (A) and the CMP sensor B (TDC sensor 2) sensor (B). 2. Install the CMP sensor A (TDC sensor 1) sensor and the CMP sensor B (TDC sensor 2) using new O-rings (C). Service and Repair Front Door Weatherstrip: Service and Repair Door Seal and Door Weatherstrip Spacer Replacement NOTE: - Take care not to scratch the door. - Use a clip remover to remove the clips. 1. Remove these items: - Before removing the door upper seal, remove the door panel and door sash outer trim. - Before removing the door weatherstrip spacer, remove the door panel. 2. Remove the door upper seal, door still seal, and door weatherstrip spacer as shown. 3. Install the seals and spacer in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - Replace any damaged clips. - If the old upper seal and spacer are to be reinstalled, scrape off all traces of old butyl tapes, EPT sealer, and adhesive tape, then clean the upper seal and spacer surfaces with alcohol. Attach the new butyl tapes, EPT sealer, and adhesive tape to the door upper seal and door weatherstrip spacer. - Press the butyl tape and adhesive tape portions to make the adhesive stick. - Check for water leaks. - Test-drive and check for wind noise. Page 5344 Clutch Switch: Testing and Inspection Clutch Pedal Position Switch Signal Circuit Troubleshooting M/T model 1. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 2. Measure voltage between ECM connector terminals B14 and B20. Is there about 5 V? YES - Go to step 3. NO - Go to step 5. 3. Press the clutch pedal. 4. Measure voltage between ECM connector terminals B14 and B20. Is voltage less than 1.0 V? YES - The clutch pedal position switch signal is OK. NO - Go to step 12. 5. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 6. Disconnect the clutch pedal position switch 2P connector. 7. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 8. Measure voltage between ECM connector terminals B14 and B20. Page 6498 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. Page 9559 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. Page 2335 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. Specifications Water Pump: Specifications Water pump belt Deflection with 98 N (9 kgf, 22 lbs.) applied mid-way between pulleys Without A/C Used belt ............................................................................................................................................................. 8.5 - 11.0 mm (0.33 - 0.43 inch) New belt .............................................................................................................................................................. 7.0 - 10.0 mm (0.28 - 0.39 inch) Tension (measured with belt tension gauges) Without A/C Used belt .................................................................................................................................................. 340 490 N (35 - 50 kgf, 77 - 110 lbs.) New belt ................................................................................................................................................... 440 640 N (45 - 65 kgf, 99 - 143 lbs.) (With A/C, see compressor belt in the A/C table) NOTE: Adjust a new belt to the new belt spec, run the engine for 5 minutes, then adjust it to the used belt spec. Page 7028 Front Strut Assembly Page 3970 Wire Color Abbreviations Page 3773 DTC U0100 thru U1288 Disclaimer Page 3959 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 9882 - Taillight relay Page 1116 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 1927 Tires: Specifications Design Specification Tires Size Front and rear tires M/T ...................................................................................................................................................... ........................................ 165/65 R14 79S CVT ................................................................................. ............................................................................................... 165/65 R14 78S (M + S) Spare tire ............................................................................................................................................. ............................................ T115/70D14 88M Page 9481 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. Page 2905 Voltage Converter: Description and Operation DC-DC Converter Instead of using an alternator to maintain the 12 V battery, the electrical system uses a DC-DC converter. The converter converts high voltage direct current into low voltage direct current with little energy loss. The DC-DC converter will illuminate the charging system indicator in the gauge assembly if a problem is detected in the 12 V charging system. The DC-DC converter has a temperature monitoring system that will signal the MCM if its temperature is abnormally high. If needed, the MCM can signal the DC-DC converter to shut down. Page 5807 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Service and Repair Cabin Ventilation Duct: Service and Repair Rear Air Outlet Replacement 1. Remove the rear bumper. 2. Detach the hooks, then remove the rear air outlet (A). Take care not to scratch the body. 3. Install the rear air outlet by pushing the hook portions into place securely. Page 6489 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. Page 3953 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Page 7764 Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow from power at the top of the diagram to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another for example is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors Page 5077 94. TP Sensor PGM-FI Main Relay Circuit Troubleshooting Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Testing and Inspection PGM-FI Main Relay Circuit Troubleshooting PGM-FI Main Relay Circuit Troubleshooting 1. Turn the ignition switch OFF, then disconnect the PGM-FI main relay connectors. 2. Check for continuity between body ground and PGM-FI main relay diode 2P connector terminal No.2. Is there continuity? YES - Go to step 3. NO - Repair open in the wire between the PGM-FI main relay and G101. 3. Measure voltage between body ground and PGM-FI main relay (IGP) 4P connector terminal No.2. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 5. NO - Go to step 4. 4. Check for a blown No.7 (15 A) fuse in the underhood fuse/relay box. Is the fuse blown? YES - Repair the short in the wire between the PGM-FI main relay and the No.7 (15 A) fuse. NO - Repair the open in the wire between the PGM-FI main relay and the No.7 (15 A) fuse. Emissions/Engine Controls - MIL ON/DTC P1457 (EVAP) Engine Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins Emissions/Engine Controls - MIL ON/DTC P1457 (EVAP) 03-001 January 28, 2003 Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED MIL Comes On With DTC P1457: EVAP Bypass Solenoid Valve Failure SYMPTOM The MIL is on, and DTC P1457 [leak detected in EVAP control system (EVAP control canister system)] is set. PROBABLE CAUSE The EVAP bypass solenoid valve can fail due to corrosion. The solenoid valve may get water inside. If the water contains road salt, the solenoid windings could corrode, causing the valve to fail. In a few rare instances, the corrosion could be severe enough to cause an internal short in the solenoid valve, which could damage the ECM/PCM. If this happens, both the bypass solenoid valve and the ECM/PCM would need to be replaced. Vehicles driven in the Northeastern part of the U.S. are more likely to have this problem because of the salting of roads during the winter months. Vehicles driven where salt is not used on the roads are much less likely to have this problem. VEHICLES AFFECTED 1998-02 Accord 1998-00 Civic 1998-01 CR-V 2000-02 Insight 1999-03 Odyssey 2003 Pilot 2000-03 S2000 CORRECTIVE ACTION Test and, if necessary, replace the EVAP bypass solenoid valve. Replace the ECM/PCM if needed. PARTS INFORMATION Refer to the parts catalog for the appropriate part number and Honda code. WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Failed Part: EVAP Bypass Solenoid Valve: Page 5304 TOOL DESCRIPTION CLEANING PROCEDURE The cleaning procedure involves hot fluid under high pressure. Check the security of all hoses and connections. Always wear safety glasses or a face shield, gloves, and protective clothing. If you get ATF in your eyes or on your skin, rinse with water immediately. Improper use of the ATF cooler cleaner can result in burns and other serious injuries. Always wear eye protection and protective clothing, and follow all instructions in this bulletin. 1. Plug the ATF cooler cleaner into a 110 V grounded electrical outlet. NOTICE Make sure the outlet has no other appliances (light fixtures, drop lights, extension cords) plugged into it. Also, never plug the cooler cleaner into an extension cord or drop light cord; you would damage the unit. 2. Flip the HEAT toggle switch to ON. Wait 1 hour for the cooler cleaner to reach its operating temperature. (The cooler cleaner is ready to use when the temperature gauge reads 140° to 150°F.) Component Locations Power Door Locks - Component Location Index Diagnostic Aids Engine Control Module: Diagnostic Aids Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Page 6185 Neutral Safety Switch: Testing and Inspection Neutral Position Switch Signal Circuit Troubleshooting M/T model 1. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 2. Shift the transmission to 1st gear. 3. Measure voltage between ECM connector terminals B16 and B20. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 4. NO - Go to step 6. 4. Shift the transmission to neutral position. 5. Measure voltage between ECM connector terminals B16 and B20. Is voltage less than 1.0 V? YES - The neutral position switch signal is OK. NO - Go to step 12. 6. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 7. Disconnect the neutral position switch 2P connector. 8. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). Page 700 27. Remove the No.15 (40 A) fuse (EPS control unit) from the under-hood fuse/relay box. 28. With the transmission in neutral (M/T) or Park (CVT), and the clutch released (Mm, start the engine. Hold the engine speed at 3,500 rpm until the IMA battery level indicator shows at least 50 percent charge. 29. Turn off the engine, and reinstall the No.15 fuse. Disclaimer Diagram Information and Instructions Key Reminder Switch: Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System Terminal Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown below is #6. Page 3088 P/N 17012-S01-A00 H/C 5999016 ECM/PCM: P/N 37820-P2P-A12 H/C 6104426 Defect Code: 072 Contention Code: C01 Skill Level: Repair Technician Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Connect the PGM Tester to the 16P data link connector. 2. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). Turn on the PGM Tester. 3. From the PROGRAM MENU screen, select HONDA SYSTEMS. 4. From the SYSTEM SELECT screen, select 1: PGM-FI. 5. From the TEST MODE MENU screen, select 6: INSPECTION. 6. From the INSPECTION MENU screen, select 2: EVAP TEST. 7. From the EVAP TEST MENU, select 1: SINGLE SOLENOIDS. 8. From the SINGLE SOLENOIDS MENU, activate the EVAP bypass solenoid valve. Listen for a click and feel for a light tap from the solenoid valve as you activate it. ^ If you can hear the solenoid valve click or feel it tap when activated, disregard this service bulletin, and look for other possible causes. ^ If you cannot hear the solenoid valve click or feel it tap when activated, go to step 9. 9. Replace the EVAP bypass solenoid valve (see section 11 of the appropriate service manual). 10. Test the new solenoid valve with the PGM Tester. ^ If you can hear the solenoid valve click or feel it tap when activated, go to step 15 or 16 as appropriate. ^ If you cannot hear the solenoid valve click or feel it tap when activated, go to step 11. 11. Check the wire harness and the connectors for damage. ^ If you find any damage, repair it, then go to step 12. ^ If you find no damage in the wire harness or connectors, go to step 13. 12. Test the solenoid valve again with the PGM Tester. ^ If you can hear the solenoid valve click or feel it tap when activated, go to step 15 or 16 as appropriate. ^ If you cannot hear the solenoid valve click or feel it tap when activated, go to step 13. 13. Replace the ECM/PCM (see section 11 of the appropriate service manual). 14. Use the PGM Tester to retest the solenoid valve. ^ If you can hear the solenoid valve click or feel it tap when activated, go to step 15 or 16 as appropriate. Specifications Page 6620 Diodes How to Identify Wiring Color-Coded Insulation Wire Color Page 1587 1. Place the vehicle on a commercially available, computerized, four-wheel alignment rack, and record the following measurements. Follow the equipment manufacturer's instructions. NOTE: Enter each reading in decimal degrees. Example 30' = 0.50. 2. If any measurement is out of specification, inspect the front suspension for any damage. Repair any damaged parts before continuing your diagnosis. 3. Determine how the front wheel camber is affecting the pull. Pick the combination of left- and right-front camber that best matches the vehicle you are repairing, then note the camber thrust direction for that combination: NOTE: ^ If the camber of both front wheels is negative, but one wheel is grossly more negative than the other, the camber thrust direction will be opposite the wheel with more negative camber (for example, if the left-front wheel is more negative, the camber thrust direction is right). ^ If the camber of both front wheels is positive, but one wheel is grossly more positive than the other, the camber thrust direction will be the same as the wheel with more positive camber (for example, if the left-front wheel is more positive, the camber thrust direction is left). 4. Determine how the camber needs to be adjusted. 5. Adjust the camber as needed. Front Camber Adjustment, Double Wishbone Suspension Page 423 7. Remove the rear clips from the middle bulkhead carpet. 8. Remove the under-cover (two bolts, two clips, and three screw clips). 9. Remove the intelligent power unit (I PU) lid (six Torx bolts and 17 hex bolts). 10. Measure the voltage between the junction board terminals. There should be 10 V or less. ^ If you have more than 10 V, there's a problem in the MA system. Look for and troubleshoot any DTCs before continuing. ^ If you have 10 V or less, continue to step 11. Page 9459 Connectors - "C" Page 2742 12. Remove the mounting bolts for the battery condition monitor (BCM) module and the motor control module (MCM). Disconnect the electrical connectors, then remove the two modules. 13. Install the new BCM and the new MCM. Make sure all electrical connectors are secure. 14. Reinstall the IPU lid. 15. Remove the locking cover from the battery module switch, install the 5 mm bolt, turn the switch on, and reinstall the locking cover. 16. Reinstall the remaining parts in the reverse order of removal. 17. Reconnect the negative cable to the 12-volt battery in the engine compartment. 18. Remove the EPS fuse from the under-hood fusel relay box. 19. With the transmission in neutral and the clutch released, run the engine at 3,500 rpm until the battery level shows at least 50 percent charge. 20. Turn off the engine, then reinstall the EPS fuse. 21. Enter the radio station presets, and set the clock. Disclaimer Page 6696 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 8067 Splices Components Ground - "G" Page 2754 Relay And Control Unit Locations - Floor And Rear Page 330 DTC P0401 thru P0562 Page 5872 5. Refill the master cylinder reservoir to the MAX (upper) level line. Page 3236 Wire Color Coding Distinct Of Circuit By Wire Base Color All wires have color-coded insulation. Wires belonging to a system's main harness will have a single color. Wires belonging to a system's sub-circuits will have a colored stripe. Striped wires use the codes found in the chart to show wire size and colors. Abbreviations are used to indicate wire color within a circuit diagram. Wire Color Abbreviations The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics: WHT................................... White YEL................................... Yellow BLK................................... Black BLU................................... Blue GRN................................... Green RED................................... Red ORN................................... Orange PNK................................... Pink BRN................................... Brown GRY................................... Gray PUR................................... Purple LT BLU................................... Light Blue LT GRN................................... Light Green The wire insulation has one color or one color with another color stripe. The second color is the stripe. How to Identify Connector Terminals How to Identify Connector Terminals Page 3943 In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locater) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: - Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. Page 5550 4. Remove the hub cap (A), raise the stake (B), and remove the spindle nut (C). 5. Remove the brake drum (A), and remove the hub bearing unit (B) from the spindle. If the brake drum has stuck to the hub bearing unit, pull them out together. Do not tap on the aluminum brake drum. 6. If the hub bearing unit has been removed together with the brake drum, separate these by placing the brake drum on a flat surface, and lightly tapping the hub flange (A) with a plastic hammer. 7. Install the hub bearing unit in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - Use a new spindle nut on reassembly. - Before installing the new spindle nut, apply a small amount of engine oil to the seating surface of the nut. After tightening, use a drift to stake the spindle nut shoulder against the spindle. - Tighten all mounting hardware to the specified torque values. - Before installing the brake drum, clean the mating surface of the hub and the inside of the brake drum, and apply grease (Dow Corning Molykote M77) to the inside circumference (A) of the center hole edge of the brake drum. Do not contaminate the brake drum sliding surface with grease. - Use a new hub cap on reassembly. - Before installing the wheel, clean the mating surface of the brake disc and the inside of the wheel. Page 8553 Paint: Service and Repair Plastic Parts Paint Locations Electric Load Sensor: Locations Relay And Control Unit Location - Engine Compartment Page 6638 EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Diagram Information and Instructions Relay Box: Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System Terminal Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown below is #6. Page 6765 During the test-drive, attach the bracket and the weights to the steering wheel on the side opposite the pulling direction. For example, if the vehicle pulls to the right, attach the bracket and weights to the left side of the steering wheel. Start with the maximum amount of weight on the steering wheel, and remove the weights until the vehicle drives in a straight line. When recording the pull on the worksheet, write down the direction of the pull (lefi or right) and the number of weights required to balance the pull (one through six). For example, if you have the bracket and two weights on the steering wheel, then record this as three weights. NOTE: The bracket counts as one weight. The road crown gauge measures the amount of road crown. Almost all roads have a crown to help drain water during rainstorms. Use the suction cup to attach the road crown gauge bracket to the vehicle in a vertical position. If necessary, bend the bracket until the gauge is vertical. Once you attach and align the road crown gauge, calibrate the gauge to zero. There are two ways to calibrate the gauge: ^ Park the vehicle on a level surface, such as an alignment rack, and calibrate the gauge by moving the gauge until the ball is on the zero mark. ^ If you do not have a perfectly flat surface, park the vehicle on a reasonably flat surface and note the gauge reading. Turn the vehicle 1800 and, with the tires in the same spot, note the new gauge reading. Then move the gauge half of the difference. For example, if your first reading is +3 and, after moving the vehicle, the gauge reads -1, then the difference is 4 degrees. Position the gauge to read +1. Diagram Information and Instructions Variable Valve Timing Actuator: Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System Terminal Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown below is #6. Page 262 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 10361 29. Left Front Side of Engine Compartment Page 7276 Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow from power at the top of the diagram to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another for example is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors Page 7964 - The name as it appears on the credit card - Signature (authorized card holder) - Phone number - Authorized charge amount NOTE: If you send in a faulty unit without a check or complete credit card information, the manufacturer may send it back to you unrepaired, or they may repair it and send it back to you C.O.D. ^ Print two copies of the completed Out-of-Warranty/New Replacement component repair form. Keep one copy with the repair order, and include the other copy with the faulty unit when you send it to the manufacturer. 8. Carefully pack the faulty unit and the paperwork in a suitable box, and label the box clearly. You are responsible for lost or damaged units; keep all shipping documents and insurance receipts. 9. Ship the faulty unit to the appropriate manufacturer via UPS. Alpine Electronics of America c/o Standard Radio Engineering Corp. 2012 Abalone Ave., Unit D Torrance, CA 90501 800-421-2284, Ext. 860304 Bose Corporation Automotive Systems Division-Service Framingham, MA 01701-9168 800-231-2673 S3 Clarion Factory Service Center 241 Beaver Rd. Walton, KY 41094 800-347-8667 (You must get authorization from Clarion before shipping units) Fujitsu Ten 19600 5. Vermont Ave. Torrance, CA 90502 800-237-5413 FTH Group Inc. (Kenwood Accessory Parts) 16685 E. Johnson Dr. City of Industry, CA 91745 626-333-2435 (You must get an RMA authorization number from www.fthgroupinc.com; from the home page, select Consumer Products) Komtec Electronics (Panasonic) 6590 Darin Way Cypress, CA 90630 714-903-3300 (Make sure your check is made out to Komtec) * Pioneer Electronics Service, Inc. 1925 E. Dominguez St. Long Beach, CA 90801 800-553-3756* Visteon c/o Model Electronics 615 E. Crescent Ave. Page 962 Heater Core Temperature Sensor / Switch: Testing and Inspection Heater Core Temperature Sensor Test Dip the sensor in ice water, and measure the resistance. Then pour hot water on the sensor, and check for a change in resistance. Compare the resistance reading between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals of the heater core temperature sensor with the specifications shown in the graph; the resistance should be within the specifications. Page 3367 5. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). Measure voltage between body ground and PGM-FI main relay (fuel pump) 4P connector terminal No.2, and between PGM-FI main relay (IGP) 4P connector terminal No.4. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 7. NO - Go to step 6. 6. Check for a blown No.2 (15 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box. Is the fuse blown? YES - Repair the short in the wire between PGM-FI main relay and the No.2 fuse. NO - Repair the open in the wire between the PGM-FI main relay and the No.2 (15 A) fuse. 7. Turn the ignition switch OFF, and disconnect ECM connector A (32P). 8. Check for continuity between PGM-FI main relay (fuel pump) 4P connector terminal No.3 and ECM connector terminal A15. Is there continuity? YES - Go to step 9. NO - Repair open in the wire between the PGM-FI main relay and the ECM (A15). 9. Reconnect ECM connector A (32P) and the PGM-FI main relay connectors. Page 3377 Ignition Hold Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relay Test Normally-open type A: 1. Turn the battery module switch OFF, and measure the voltage. 2. Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is disconnected. A/C compressor clutch relay - Air fuel ratio sensor relay - Condenser fan relay - Daytime running lights relay (Canada) - Headlight relay 1 - Headlight relay 2 - High speed battery module fan control relay - High speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - High voltage conductor control relay - Horn relay - Ignition hold relay - Low speed battery module fan control relay - Low speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - Power window relay - Radiator fan relay - Rear window defogger relay - Reverse relay - Starter cut relay Page 841 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. Page 4453 Variable Valve Timing Pressure Switch: Service and Repair VTEC Pressure Switch Replacement 1. Disconnect the VTEC pressure switch connector, then remove the VTEC pressure switch (A). 2. Install the VTEC pressure switch using a new O-ring (B). Page 3701 EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 8228 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Page 6187 NO - Replace the neutral position switch. 16. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 17. Measure voltage between neutral position switch 2P connector terminal No.2 and body ground. Is there battery voltage? YES - Repair open in the wire between the neutral position switch and G101. NO - Repair open in the wire between the ECM (B16) and the neutral position switch. Page 3299 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Locations Camshaft Position Sensor: Locations PGM-FI System - Component Location Index Page 1345 PGM-FI System - Component Location Index Page 141 Splices Components Ground - "G" A/C - Refrigerant Leak Detection Refrigerant: Technical Service Bulletins A/C - Refrigerant Leak Detection 07-030 October 12, 2007 Applies To: ALL Vehicles With Conventional A/C Compressors A/C Leak Detection (Supersedes 07-030, dated June 15, 2007, to update the information marked by asterisks) The OPTIMAX Jr. (TM)A/C Leak Detection Kit for Honda vehicles, P/N TRP124893, is a new required tool. The kit is used to add small amounts of dye to A/C systems to help locate smaller leaks that an electronic leak detector might not find. When searching for leaks, always begin by using an electronic leak detector. Refer to Service Bulletin 97-027, Denso HLD-100 Halogen Leak Detector; for tips on using this tool, then follow up with the OPTIMAX Jr. This new detection kit complements but does not replace the electronic detector. The kit contains: ^ TRP8640CS, OPTIMAX Jr. (TM) cordless, fluorescent leak detection flashlight lamp (includes 3 standard AA batteries) ^ TRP38600601, (6) 0.06 oz. (1.7 g) Tracer-Stick(R) R134a/PAG A/C dye capsules with ID labels ^ TRP3887, R-134a Universal Connect Set(TM) ^ TRP120884, GLO-AWAY(TM) dye cleaner ^ TRP9940, fluorescence-enhancing glasses ^ TRP1143, (1) empty Tracer-Stick dye capsule ORDERING INFO *One OPTIMAX Jr. A/C Leak Detection Kit was shipped to each current dealer as a required special tool. Additional kits and replacement capsules may be ordered through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program. On the iN, click on Service, Service Bay, Tool and Equipment Program, Online Catalog tab, and Air Conditioning Equipment, or call.* NOTICE ^ Do not use leak-trace dye in any Honda hybrid vehicle equipped with a dual-scroll compressor This can increase the chance of electric shock. The compressor is easily identified by the orange high-voltage cable that is connected to the compressor body. ^ Only Tracer-Stick single-dose fluorescent dye capsules from Tracer Products (Tracerline(R)) are approved for use in Honda vehicles. Other dyes contain solvents that may contaminate the system's refrigerant oil, leading to component failure. ^ Adding excessive amounts of dye can lead to compressor damage and failure. USING THE OPTIMAX JR. Page 3902 ECM/PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector B (25P) Part 1 Page 4863 Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution diagram set to get a more detailed picture of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Page 6952 13. Move the steering gearbox to the passenger's side, and remove it driver's side first. 14. Install the steering gearbox in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - Steering joint installation. - Make sure the steering gearbox wires are not caught or pinched by any parts. - Make sure the steering gearbox connectors are properly connected. - Reconnect the battery negative cable. - Start the engine, and check that the EPS indicator goes off. - Test drive the vehicle; Check that the EPS indicator does not come on. - Check the steering wheel spoke angle. Recheck and adjust the front wheel alignment, if necessary. - Do the power window control unit resetting procedure. - Reset the radio presets and clock. - Stop Plate Installation: Tighten the 12 mm bolts to the specified torque, and bend the stop plate (A). If after tightening the bolts, the flats of the bolt heads (B) do not align with the lock tabs, continue tightening the bolt until it aligns with one of the lock tabs. Do not exceed the torque valve of 108 Nm (11.0 kgf-cm, 80 ft. lbs.). Locations 19. Rear of Transmission (M/T) Page 9330 First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 6196 Starter Motor: Testing and Inspection Starter Performance Test Starter Performance Test 1. Disconnect the wire from the S terminal (A). 2. Make the connections as described in the following steps using as heavy a wire as possible (preferably equivalent to the wire used for the vehicle). 3. Connect the battery as shown. If the starter pinion pops out, it is working properly. To avoid damaging the starter, do not leave the battery connected for more than 10 seconds. 4. Disconnect the battery also from the body. If the pinion retracts immediately, it is working properly. To avoid damaging the starter, do not leave the battery connected for more than 10 seconds. 5. Clamp the starter firmly in a vise. 6. Connect the starter to the battery as described in the diagram, and confirm that the motor starts and keeps rotating. 7. If the electric current and motor speed meet the specifications when the battery voltage is at 11.5 V, the starter is working properly. Specifications : Electric current : 80 A or less Motor speed : 2,600 rpm or more Page 9828 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 3687 All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416 etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector or by a capital letter (A, B, C etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Connector Views that shows the connector terminals wire colors connector cavity numbers and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints shown on diagram [8] . Except for the DLC (data link connector) disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554 for example means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Page 9825 In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locater) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: - Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. Page 9146 - If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system. - If all the input tests prove OK, go to step 5. 5. Connect the connectors to the gauge assembly and make these input tests at the connector. - If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system. - If all the input tests prove OK, replace the printed circuit board in the gauge assembly. Page 10160 Rear Window Defogger - Component Location Index Page 586 Fuel Shut-off Solenoid Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relay Test Normally-open type A: 1. Turn the battery module switch OFF, and measure the voltage. 2. Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is disconnected. A/C compressor clutch relay - Air fuel ratio sensor relay - Condenser fan relay - Daytime running lights relay (Canada) - Headlight relay 1 - Headlight relay 2 - High speed battery module fan control relay - High speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - High voltage conductor control relay - Horn relay - Ignition hold relay - Low speed battery module fan control relay - Low speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - Power window relay - Radiator fan relay - Rear window defogger relay - Reverse relay - Starter cut relay - Taillight relay Service and Repair Oil Pressure Switch (For Fuel Pump): Service and Repair VTEC Oil Pressure Switch Replacement 1. Disconnect the VTEC oil pressure switch connector, then remove the VTEC oil pressure switch (A). 2. Install the VTEC oil pressure switch using a new O-ring (B). Locations Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor: Locations PGM-FI System - Component Location Index Electronic Climate Control Blower Motor: Description and Operation Electronic Climate Control Blower Controls The blower speed is automatically controlled in the automatic mode. You can manually select it by repeatedly pressing the blower speed button. The more times you press it, the faster the fan goes until it reaches maximum speed. Battery voltage is applied through fuse 12 to the blower motor relay contacts at all times. With the ignition switch in ACC (I) or ON (II), the blower motor relay in the under-hood fuse/relay box is energized which feeds battery voltage to the blower motor. The power transistor controls the blower motor in all speeds except HIGH. The power transistor is controlled by the climate control unit. When the control unit requests HIGH blower speed, it grounds the blower motor HIGH relay coil, energizing the relay, which connects the blower motor directly to ground, making the blower run at high speed. In cold weather, the blower will not come on automatically until the heater starts to develop warm air. Page 6165 16. Measure voltage between the clutch pedal position switch 2P connector terminal No.2 and body ground. Is there about 5 V? YES - Repair open in the wire between the clutch pedal position switch and G402. NO - Repair open in the wire between the ECM (B14) and the clutch pedal position switch. Page 5883 Brake Fluid: Service Precautions SAFETY PRECAUTIONS WARNING: Brake fluid may be irritating to the skin or eyes. In case of contact, take the following actions: * Eye Contact - rinse eyes thoroughly with water. * Skin Contact - wash skin with soap and water. Page 1928 Tires: Testing and Inspection Tread Wear Indicators The original equipment tires have built-in tread wear indicators (l) to show when tires need replacement. These indicators may appear as wide bands. When the indicators appear in two or more grooves at three locations, tire replacement is recommended. Page 495 Connectors - "C" Page 5558 Flex Plate: Service and Repair Drive Plate Removal and Installation 1. Remove the drive plate (A) and washer (B) from the engine crankshaft. 2. Install the drive plate, and install the washer in the direction shown on the engine crankshaft. 3. Tighten the six bolts in a crisscross pattern. Page 329 DTC P0158 thru P0400 Page 3179 First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Locations Camshaft Position Sensor: Locations PGM-FI System - Component Location Index Page 3290 Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution diagram set to get a more detailed picture of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Page 8384 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. Page 2680 11. Lift out the battery module foam insert. 12. Remove the mounting bolts for the battery condition monitor (BCM) module and the motor control module (MCM). Disconnect the electrical connectors, then remove the modules. 13. Install the new BCM and MCM. Make sure all module connectors are secure. 14. Install the IPU lid. 15. Remove the locking cover from the battery module switch, install the 5 mm bolt, turn the switch on, reinstall the locking cover, and install the battery module switch cover. 16. Install the remaining parts in the reverse order of removal. 17. Reconnect the negative cable to the under-hood 12 V battery. Testing and Inspection Vacuum Brake Booster: Testing and Inspection Brake Booster Test Functional Test 1. With the engine stopped, press the brake pedal several times to deplete the vacuum reservoir, then press the pedal hard and hold it for 15 seconds. If the pedal sinks, either the master cylinder is bypassing internally, or the brake system (master cylinder, lines, modulator, proportioning valve, calipers, or wheel cylinders) is leaking. 2. Start the engine with the brake pedal pressed. If the pedal sinks slightly, the vacuum booster is operating normally. If the pedal height does not vary, the booster or check valve is faulty. 3. With the engine running, press the brake pedal lightly. If the brake pedal sinks more than 10 mm (3/8 inch) in 3 minutes, the master cylinder is faulty. A slight change in pedal height when the A/C compressor cycles on and off is normal. (The A/C compressor load changes the vacuum available to the booster.) Leak Test 1. Press the brake pedal with the engine running, then stop the engine. If the pedal height does not vary while pressed for 30 seconds, the vacuum booster is OK. If the pedal rises, the booster is faulty. 2. With the engine stopped, press the brake pedal several times using normal pressure. When the pedal is first pressed, it should be low. On consecutive applications, the pedal height should gradually rise. If the pedal position does not vary, check the booster check valve. Booster Check Valve Test 1. Disconnect the brake booster vacuum hose (check valve built in) (A) at the booster (B) side. 2. Start the engine, and let it idle. There should be vacuum available. If no vacuum is available, the check valve is not working properly. Replace the brake booster vacuum hose and check valve, and retest. Hybrid System - IMA Indicator ON/DTC's P1447/P1449 Battery Control Module: Customer Interest Hybrid System - IMA Indicator ON/DTC's P1447/P1449 04-028 March 16, 2011 Applies To: 2000-04 Insight - ALL IMA System Indicator On With IMA DTC 77 (P1447) or DTC 78 (P1449) (Supersedes 04-028, dated April 30, 2010, to revise the information marked by the black bars and asterisks) *REVISION SUMMARY Under WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION, some operation number and flat rate time information was changed.* PROBLEM The IMA system indicator comes on and IMA DTC 77 (P1447) (battery module deterioration) or DTC 78 (P1449) (battery module deterioration) is set. CORRECTIVE ACTION Replace the battery module. Inspect the motor control module (MCM) and the battery condition monitor (BCM) to determine if they also need to be replaced. PARTS INFORMATION WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION The normal warranty applies. NOTE: IMA components (battery module, battery condition monitor, and motor control module) are covered under warranty for 8 years or 80,000 miles, whichever comes first. Service and Repair Vehicle Lifting: Service and Repair Lift and Support Points Frame Hoist Position the hoist lift blocks (A), on safety stands, under the vehicle's front support points (B) and rear support points (C). 1. Raise the hoist a few inches (centimeters), and rock the vehicle gently to be sure it is firmly supported. 2. Raise the hoist to full height, and inspect the lift points for solid contact with the lift blocks. If you are going to remove heavy components such as suspension or the fuel tank from the rear of the vehicle, first support the front of the vehicle with a tall safety stand. When substantial weight is removed from the rear of the vehicle, the center of gravity can change and cause the vehicle to tip forward on the hoist. Safety Stands To support the vehicle on safety stands, use the same support points (B and C) as for a frame hoist. Always use safety stands when working on or under any vehicle that is supported only by a jack. Floor Jack 1. Set the parking brake. 2. Place a rubber pad between the lift platform and the center support point. NOTE: The platform must contact the center support point only; it must not come in contact with any other part of the vehicle. 3. Position the floor jack under the left or right center support point (A), center the jack lift platform (B) on the jacking point, and jack up the vehicle high enough to fit the safety stands under it. 4. Position the safety stands under the support points and adjust them so the vehicle will be level. Climate Control Power and Ground Circuit Troubleshooting Control Assembly: Testing and Inspection Climate Control Power and Ground Circuit Troubleshooting Climate Control Power and Ground Circuits Troubleshooting 1. Check the No. 16 (30 A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box, and the No. 16 (7.5 A) and No. 18 (7.5 A) fuses in the under-dash fuse/relay box. Are the fuses OK? YES - Go to step 2. NO - Replace the fuse(s), and recheck. 2. Disconnect climate control unit connector A (12P). 3. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 4. Measure the voltage between the No. 2 terminal of climate control unit connector A (12P) and body ground. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 5. NO - Repair open in the wire between the No. 16 fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box and the climate control unit. 5. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 6. Measure the voltage between the No. 3 terminal of climate control unit connector A (12P) and body ground. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 7. NO - Repair open in the wire between the No. 18 fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box and the climate control unit. Page 6903 Wires Page 9730 Wire Color Abbreviations Page 9756 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. Page 6070 27. Remove the No.15 (40 A) fuse (EPS control unit) from the under-hood fuse/relay box. 28. With the transmission in neutral (M/T) or Park (CVT), and the clutch released (Mm, start the engine. Hold the engine speed at 3,500 rpm until the IMA battery level indicator shows at least 50 percent charge. 29. Turn off the engine, and reinstall the No.15 fuse. Disclaimer Component Locations Climate Control - Component Location Index Page 7341 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 4870 First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 701 Page 2190 1. Apply a force of 98 N (10 kgf, 22 lbs.), and measure the deflection at the mid point (A) between the water pump and crankshaft pulleys. If the belt is worn or damaged, replace it. If the belt needs adjustment, go to step 2. Adjustment 2. Loosen the idler pulley center nut (B). 3. Turn the adjusting bolt (C) to obtain the proper belt deflection, then retighten the idler pulley center nut. 4. Recheck the belt deflection. 5. If you installed a new belt, run the engine for five minutes, then readjust the belt to the used belt specification. Locations Crankshaft Position Sensor: Locations PGM-FI System - Component Location Index Page 10016 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 7367 Wire Color Coding Distinct Of Circuit By Wire Base Color All wires have color-coded insulation. Wires belonging to a system's main harness will have a single color. Wires belonging to a system's sub-circuits will have a colored stripe. Striped wires use the codes found in the chart to show wire size and colors. Abbreviations are used to indicate wire color within a circuit diagram. Wire Color Abbreviations The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics: WHT................................... White YEL................................... Yellow BLK................................... Black BLU................................... Blue GRN................................... Green RED................................... Red ORN................................... Orange PNK................................... Pink BRN................................... Brown GRY................................... Gray PUR................................... Purple LT BLU................................... Light Blue LT GRN................................... Light Green The wire insulation has one color or one color with another color stripe. The second color is the stripe. How to Identify Connector Terminals How to Identify Connector Terminals Page 9199 Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow from power at the top of the diagram to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another for example is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors Page 9307 Temperature Gauge: Description and Operation Engine Coolant Temperature Gauge The engine coolant temperature gauge (part of the LCD Display) is controlled by the CPU in the gauge assembly. The ECT sensor sends a coolant temperature signal to the ECM through the RED/WHT wire (cavity C26). The ECM then sends a coolant temperature signal to the CPU in the gauge assembly through the LT GRN/RED wire (cavity A4). The CPU controls the LCD display to turn on the correct number of segments to indicate the coolant temperature. Refer to the Gauges System for specific tests or troubleshooting procedures. Page 3561 Fuel Pressure: Testing and Inspection Fuel Pressure Test Special Tools Required Fuel pressure gauge 07406-004000A M/T model: 1. Relieve the fuel pressure. 2. Remove the sealing nut from the fuel rail. Attach the fuel pressure adapter nut, 12 mm (A) and the fuel pressure gauge. 3. Disconnect the vacuum hose (C) from the fuel pressure regulator (D), and pinch it closed with a clamp (E). 4. Start the engine and let it idle. - If the engine starts, go to step 6. - If the engine does not start, go to step 5. 5. Check to see if the fuel pump is running: Remove the fuel fill cap, and hold your ear to the fuel fill port while an assistant turns the ignition switch ON (II). You should hear the pump run for about two seconds when the ignition is turned ON (II). If the fuel pump runs, make sure there is sufficient fuel in the tank, then go to step 6. - If the fuel pump does not run, test it. 6. Read the pressure gauge (with the fuel pressure regulator vacuum hose disconnected and clamped). The pressure should be 270 - 320 kPa (2.8 3.3 kgf/sq.cm, 40 - 47 psi). If the pressure is OK and engine is running, go to step 8. If the engine is not running, repair the cause, then continue this test. - If the pressure is out of spec, go to step 8. 7. With the engine running, unpinch and reconnect the vacuum hose and read the gauge again. The pressure should be 210 - 260 kPa (2.1 - 2.6 kgf/sq.cm, 30 - 37 psi). If the fuel pressure is OK, the test is complete, go to step 9. - If the pressure is out of spec, go to step 8. 8. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the pressure regulator again while you watch the pressure gauge. The pressure should rise when you disconnect the hose. If the pressure did not rise, replace the fuel pressure regulator. - If the pressure rose, but all your readings were lower than specified, check for a clogged fuel filter and for leaks in the fuel lines. - If the pressure rose, but all your readings were higher than specified, check for a pinched or clogged fuel return hose or line. 9. Reconnect the vacuum hose, remove the pressure gauge, and reinstall the sealing nut with a new washer. Tighten the sealing nut to 22 N.m (2.2 kgf.m, 16 lbf.ft). NOTE: Disassemble and clean the fuel pressure gauge attachment thoroughly after use. CVT model: 1. Relieve the fuel pressure. Page 1191 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Page 5529 10. Fit the boot (A) ends onto the driveshaft (B) and outboard joint (C). 11. Close the ear portion (A) of the band with a commercially available boot band pincers (B). 12. Check the clearance between the closed ear portion of the band. If the clearance is not within the standard, close the ear portion of the band further. Page 8669 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 1799 Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box Page 2655 Answer: Refer to the images below for the proper location of the serial number. Question: How do I obtain pricing or parts availability on remanufactured IMA batteries? Gas Tank - Fuel Pump/Sending Unit Installation Tip Fuel Gauge Sender: Technical Service Bulletins Gas Tank - Fuel Pump/Sending Unit Installation Tip SOURCE: Honda Service News March 2003 TITLE: Installing an In-Tank Fuel Pump/Sending Unit? Don't Forget a New Base Gasket, Locknut, and Fuel Line Retainers APPLIES TO: See Models Listed In Illustration SERVICE TIP: Whenever you install an in-tank fuel pump/sending unit into a plastic fuel tank, the S/M tells you to install a new base gasket. But did you know you also need to replace the locknut and the fuel line retainers as well? Make a note in the Fuel Supply System subsection of the appropriate S/Ms to also replace the locknut and the fuel line retainers. Then follow this handy chart to order the appropriate parts. Install the new gasket on the fuel tank side, not on the fuel pump/sending unit side; this ensures that the gasket doesn't get pinched or rolled. If you don't install the fuel pump/sending unit correctly, the MIL could come on with an EVAP control system leakage DTC set. The gasket and the locknut are currently available in Honda parts stock under separate part numbers. But soon, they'll be packaged under a single part number. The fuel sending unit, gasket, and locknut will also be packaged together under a single part number. The gasket and the locknut will then be discontinued as separate part numbers. Page 5227 197. Driving Mode Buttons (CVT) Page 6250 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Locations Parking Brake Warning Switch: Locations Gauges - Component Location Index Locations 111. Top Rear of Battery Module Page 504 Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Diagnostic Aids Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Specifications Page 8469 6. Press and hold the green programming button on the side of the control unit until the LED on the instrument panel begins to flash, then release the button. (Steps 6 and 7 must be done within 5 seconds of each other.) 7. Press and release the bottom button on the transmitter. Verify that the LED goes out, the siren chirps twice, and the front sidemarker lights flash twice to confirm that the transmitter's code was accepted by the control unit. 8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK. Test the transmitter you just programmed. If it doesn't work repeat steps 2 thru 7. 9. If you have another transmitter to program, repeat steps 2 thru 7. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda using normal parts ordering procedures. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery. 98-02 Passport With Factory-Installed Security System 1998-02 Passport with factory-installed security system Programming the Transmitter To program the transmitters, use one of these two procedures: ^ Procedure One cancels all learned transmitter codes and adds one new transmitter. None of the previously programmed transmitters will work. Use this programming procedure only if all transmitters were lost or stolen, or if a new control unit has been installed. ^ Procedure Two adds additional transmitters without cancelling any of the previously learned codes. The system will accept up to four transmitters. Procedure One (cancels all codes, adds one new transmitter) 1. Open the driver's door. 2. Turn the ignition switch to the ACC position and then to the LOCK position three times. (This step must be completed within 10 seconds, or the system will not enter the programming mode.) 3. Within 10 seconds, close and open the door two times. 4. Turn the ignition switch to the ACC position and then to the LOCK position five times. Close and open the door. (Complete this process within 10 seconds.) Verify that the power door locks cycle once to confirm that the system is in programming mode. 5. Within 20 seconds, press the "LOCK" button on the transmitter you are programming. Verify that the door locks cycle once. 6. Within 20 seconds, press the "UNLOCK" button on the transmitter. Verify that the door locks cycle once to confirm that the system has accepted the transmitter's code. Procedure Two (adds transmitters) 1. Open the driver's door. 2. Turn the ignition switch to the ACC position and then to the LOCK position three times. (This step must be completed within 10 seconds, or the Page 9956 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Page 1194 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. Page 9375 Cavity Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity / terminal shown is # 6. Circuit Schematics Page 9973 Hazard Warning Switch: Service and Repair Hazard Warning Switch Test/Replacement 1. Remove the instrument panel. 2. Disconnect the 10P connector (A) from the hazard warning switch (B). 3. Remove the two screws from the switch. 4. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table. 5. If the continuity check is not as specified, replace the illumination bulb (B) or the switch. Page 10138 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. Page 5755 168. ABS Modulator-Control Unit Page 2961 12. Install the IPU lid. Torque the bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb-ft). 13. Reinstall the right side trunk shelf support. Torque the bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb-ft). 14. Remove the battery module switch locking cover, and flip the switch to ON. Reinstall the locking cover. 15. Reinstall the battery module switch cover. 16. Reinstall the cargo floor mat. 17. Remove the No.15 (40A) fuse (EPS control unit) from the under-hood fuse/relay box. 18. With the transmission in Neutral, and the clutch released on M/T models, start the engine. Hold it at 3,500 rpm until the IMA battery level indicator shows at least 50 percent charge. 19. Turn off the engine, and reinstall the No.15 fuse. Disclaimer Page 2298 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 6633 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 9134 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Page 7893 43. Under Left Side of Dash (Honda Accessory) Fuel Pump/Fuel Gauge Sending Unit Replacement Fuel Gauge Sender: Service and Repair Fuel Pump/Fuel Gauge Sending Unit Replacement Fuel Pump/Fuel Gauge Sending Unit Replacement Special Tools Required Adjustable ring wrench 07XAA-001010A M/T model: 1. Remove the fuel tank. 2. Disconnect the quick-connect fittings from the fuel pump. 3. Using the tool, loosen the fuel tank unit locknut (A). 4. Remove the bracket (A), the fuel filter (B), the fuel tank unit (C), the case (D), and the wire harness (E). 5. When connecting the fuel pump, make sure the connection is secure and the suction filter (F) is firmly connected to the fuel pump (G). 6. Install the part in the reverse order of removal with a new base gasket, then check these items: - When connecting the wire harness, make sure the connection is secure and the connector (H) is firmly locked into the place. - Do not push the lower part of the suction filter. - When installing the fuel gauge sending unit, make sure the connection is secure and the connector is firmly locked into place. Be careful not to bend or twist it excessively. - When installing the fuel pump assembly, align the marks (J) on the fuel tank (K) and the fuel pump assembly (L). CVT model: 1. Remove the fuel tank. 2. Disconnect the quick-connect fittings from the fuel pump. Page 1785 Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Description and Operation Definitions Air Bag An inflatable cloth cushion designed to deploy in certain frontal crashes. It supplements the protection offered by the seat belts by distributing the impact load more evenly over the vehicle occupant's head and torso. Asynchronous Performed in a nonperiodic fashion, (i.e., no defined time or interval). (B+) Battery voltage, (B+) The voltage available at the battery at the time of the indicated measurement. With the key "ON" and the engine not running, the system voltage will likely be between 12 and 12.5 volts. At idle the voltage may be 14 to 16 volts. The voltage could be as low as 10 volts during engine cranking. Bulb Check The SDM will cause the "AIR BAG" warning lamp to flash seven times and then go "OFF" whenever the ignition switch transitions to the ON position from any other ignition switch position and no malfunctions are detected. "CONTINUOUS MONITORING" Tests performed by the SDM on the SRS every 100 milliseconds while "Ignition 1" voltage is in the normal operating voltage range at the SDM. Data Link Connector (DLC) Formerly "DLC" a connector which allows communication with an external computer, such as a scan tool. Datum Line A base line parallel to the plane of the underbody or frame from which all vertical measurements originate. Deploy To inflate the air bag. Deployment Loops The circuits which supply current to the air bag assemblies to deploy the air bag. Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) Formerly "Code", a numerical designator used by the SDM to indicate specific SRS malfunctions. Driver Current Source An output of the SDM which applies current into the driver air bag assembly circuit during the "Initiator Assembly Resistance Test". Driver Air Bag Assembly An assembly located in the steering wheel hub consisting of an inflatable bag, an inflator and an initiator. EEPROM Electronically Erasable Programmable Read Only Memory. Memory which retains its contents when power is removed from the SDM. Ignition Cycle The voltage at the SDM "Ignition 1" inputs, with ignition switch "ON", is within the normal operating voltage range for at least ten seconds before turning ignition switch "OFF". Ignition 1 Locations 42. Under Left Side of Dash Page 9153 Wires Page 6346 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 5771 129. Right Rear Underside of Vehicle (Left Similar) Page 1789 Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Service and Repair Connector Disconnection / Connection Disconnecting System Connectors Before removing the airbag or SRS related devices (the SRS unit, the cable reel and the seat belt tensioner connector), disconnecting connectors from SRS related devices, or removing the dashboard or the steering column, disconnect the airbag connectors and seat belt tensioner connectors to prevent accidental deployment. Turn the ignition switch OFF, disconnect the negative cable from the battery, and wait at least 3 minutes before beginning the following procedures. - Before disconnecting the SRS unit connector A (18P) (A) from the SRS unit, disconnect both airbag 2P connectors (C, D) and both seat belt tensioner 2P connectors (E, F). - Before disconnecting the cable reel 2P connector (B), disconnect the driver's airbag 2P connector (C). 1. Disconnect the battery negative cable, and wait at least three minutes. Driver's Airbag 2. Remove the access panel from the steering wheel, then disconnect the driver's airbag 2P connector (A) from the cable reel. Passenger's Airbag Page 9500 Daytime Running Lamp Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relay Test Normally-open type A: 1. Turn the battery module switch OFF, and measure the voltage. 2. Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is disconnected. A/C compressor clutch relay - Air fuel ratio sensor relay - Condenser fan relay - Daytime running lights relay (Canada) - Headlight relay 1 - Headlight relay 2 - High speed battery module fan control relay - High speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - High voltage conductor control relay - Horn relay - Ignition hold relay - Low speed battery module fan control relay - Low speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - Power window relay - Radiator fan relay - Rear window defogger relay - Reverse relay - Starter cut relay Page 10130 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. Page 8461 Programming the Transmitter NOTES: ^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased. ^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the programming mode. ^ You must complete steps 1-6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from exiting the programming mode. 1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter can be used for this step.) 3. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 4. Repeat steps 1 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2. 5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode. 7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted the transmitter's code. 8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda using normal parts ordering procedures. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery number is CR1616. Each transmitter uses one battery. 97-04 CR-V & 00-04 S2000 *1997-04 CR-V LX with dealer-installed keyless entry system 1998-04 CR-V EX with factory-installed keyless entry system 2000-01 CR-V SE with factory-installed keyless entry system 2000-04 S2000 with factory-installed keyless entry system 2002-04 CR-V with dealer-installed security system* Page 2442 25. Left Front of Engine Compartment Page 3289 All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416 etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector or by a capital letter (A, B, C etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Connector Views that shows the connector terminals wire colors connector cavity numbers and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints shown on diagram [8] . Except for the DLC (data link connector) disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554 for example means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Page 7418 Heater Control Valve Cable: Technical Service Bulletins A/C - Heater Blows Cold Air, A/C Blows Warm Air SOURCE: Honda Service News TITLE: Heater Blows Cold Air, A/C Blows Warm Air APPLIES TO: all A/C-equipped Honda models that use a heater valve cable. SERVICE TIP: Got a vehicle in your shop that blows cold air from the heater or warm air from the A/C ? The problem could just be the heater valve cable has slipped off the heater valve arm. There's a real easy fix for this problem. Slip the heater valve cable back onto the heater valve arm. Then cut yourself a 10 mm length of 3.5 mm vacuum hose and slide it onto the arm. This holds the cable on the arm nice and snug so it won't slip off. Page 7542 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 2015 Cavity Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity / terminal shown is # 6. Circuit Schematics Page 7178 Blower Motor: Locations Heating - Component Location Index Page 8566 180. Unlock Relay (Honda Accessory) Page 8230 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. Page 3123 DTC P1253 thru P1459 Page 8229 EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 9954 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 4304 Wires Page 4846 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 1125 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Page 3078 DTC P1486 thru P1585 Page 1480 Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Service and Repair Transmission Range Switch Replacement 1. Remove the air cleaner housing. 2. Remove the transmission range switch connector from the connector bracket (A), then disconnect it. 3. Remove the transmission range switch (B). 4. Shift the transmission into the [N] position by turning the control lever (A). Do not squeeze the end (B) of the control shaft tips together when shifting. If the tips are squeezed together it will cause a faulty signal or position due to the play between the control shaft and the switch. 5. Set the transmission range switch to the [N] position. The switch clicks in the [N] position. 6. Install the transmission range switch gently on the control shaft, then tighten the bolts. Do not move the switch when tightening the bolts. 7. Connect the connector securely, then install it on its bracket. Page 4147 DTC P1679 thru P1860 Page 9568 EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 8959 Wires Page 5546 10. Remove the cotter pin (A) from the lower arm ball joint, and remove the castle nut (B). 11. Remove the lower arm ball joint from the knuckle using the special tool. NOTE: Make sure you position the ball joint remover jaw on the bushing (D) and not on the aluminum surface of the knuckle. 12. Loosen the damper pinch bolts (A) while holding the nuts (B), and remove the bolts and nuts. 13. Pull the knuckle off of the driveshaft while holding the outboard joint (c), and remove the knuckle from the damper. NOTE: Do not pull the driveshaft end outward. The driveshaft joint may come off. 14. Separate the hub (A) from the hub bearing unit (B) using the special tool and a press. Hold onto the hub to keep it from falling when pressed clear. Page 1018 First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Locations Ignition Hold Relay: Locations Relay And Control Unit Locations - Floor And Rear Page 5819 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 9131 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 470 ECM/PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector B (25P) Part 2 Page 4620 EGR Valve: Description and Operation EGR Valve The EGR valve is designed to lower peak combustion temperatures and reduce oxides of nitrogen emissions (NOx) by recirculating exhaust gas through the intake manifold and into the combustion chambers. Page 3856 7. Remove the rear clips from the middle bulkhead carpet. 8. Remove the under-cover (two bolts, two clips, and three screw clips). 9. Remove the intelligent power unit (I PU) lid (six Torx bolts and 17 hex bolts). 10. Measure the voltage between the junction board terminals. There should be 10 V or less. ^ If you have more than 10 V, there's a problem in the MA system. Look for and troubleshoot any DTCs before continuing. ^ If you have 10 V or less, continue to step 11. Page 269 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. Page 2087 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 9551 Wire Color Coding Distinct Of Circuit By Wire Base Color All wires have color-coded insulation. Wires belonging to a system's main harness will have a single color. Wires belonging to a system's sub-circuits will have a colored stripe. Striped wires use the codes found in the chart to show wire size and colors. Abbreviations are used to indicate wire color within a circuit diagram. Wire Color Abbreviations The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics: WHT................................... White YEL................................... Yellow BLK................................... Black BLU................................... Blue GRN................................... Green RED................................... Red ORN................................... Orange PNK................................... Pink BRN................................... Brown GRY................................... Gray PUR................................... Purple LT BLU................................... Light Blue LT GRN................................... Light Green The wire insulation has one color or one color with another color stripe. The second color is the stripe. How to Identify Connector Terminals How to Identify Connector Terminals Page 8038 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. Locations Starter Relay: Locations Under Dash Relay Box View Page 9786 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 2039 17. VTEC Solenoid Valve Page 5318 10. Measure the rivet depth from the clutch disc lining surface (A) to the rivets (B) on both sides. If the thickness is less than the service limit, replace the clutch disc. Page 592 Relay And Control Unit Locations - Dashboard Page 2970 12. Install the IPU lid. Torque the bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb-ft). 13. Reinstall the right side trunk shelf support. Torque the bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb-ft). 14. Remove the battery module switch locking cover, and flip the switch to ON. Reinstall the locking cover. 15. Reinstall the battery module switch cover. 16. Reinstall the cargo floor mat. 17. Remove the No.15 (40A) fuse (EPS control unit) from the under-hood fuse/relay box. 18. With the transmission in Neutral, and the clutch released on M/T models, start the engine. Hold it at 3,500 rpm until the IMA battery level indicator shows at least 50 percent charge. 19. Turn off the engine, and reinstall the No.15 fuse. Disclaimer Brakes - Brake Disc Refinishing Information Brake Rotor/Disc: Technical Service Bulletins Brakes - Brake Disc Refinishing Information 00-088 July 14, 2010 Applies To: ALL Models Brake Disc Refinishing Guidelines (Supersedes 00-088, dated October 6, 2006, to revise the information marked with the black bars) *REVISION SUMMARY The requirement to refinish new brake discs was removed.* American Honda does not allow replacement of brake discs under warranty unless the brake disc is beyond its service limit for refinishing. If the brake disc is within its service limit, you must refinish it. Maximum refinishing limits may be found in the Conventional Brakes section of the appropriate service manual. *Refinish brake discs only when they are scored or out of specification for runout or parallelism. See the appropriate service manual for the specifications.* American Honda requires refinishing of the front brake discs with an on-car brake lathe that mounts to the steering knuckle. Use of an on-car, steering knuckle- mounted lathe is critical because it corrects runout of the hub and disc as an assembly. Experience has shown that very small amounts of runout, not felt as brake pulsation initially, will grow and become noticeable as the discs are subjected to heat and wear over time and mileage. Two on-car brake lathes are recommended. The Kwik-Lathe, model number KWY-108000501, is supported with automatic shipments of adapters for new models, when required. The Accu-turn On-car Brake Lathe, model ACCHONOCLPKG, is also recommended. A power driver is required for the 82000 and is highly recommended for all other models. The Kwik-Lathe power driver model number is KWY-108012005; the Accu-turn lathe includes a power driver. Here are some advantages of using power drivers: ^ The disc is rotated at the optimum speed for a smooth and consistent cut. ^ There is no need to climb in and out of the vehicle to start and stop the engine or to shift the transmission. ^ Securing the opposite wheel with a tie-down strap is not required. ^ There is no waiting for the engine to return to idle and no concern about engine speed changes that can adversely affect brake disc cut and finish. ^ The Traction Control System (TCS) is not involved. ^ Consistent cutting speed increases cutting tool life. ORDERING INFORMATION Order brake lathes and power drivers through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program. To place an order, call or use the fax order form provided in your Honda Tool and Equipment Program Catalog. Phone lines are open Monday thru Friday from 7:30 a.m. to 7:00 p.m. Central Time. You can also order online through the Interactive Network (iN). Click on Service, Tool and Equipment, and then Online Catalog. Click on Alignment, Wheel, and Brake Equipment, and then On-Car Brake Lathes. WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION None, this bulletin is for information only. FRONT BRAKE DISCS The following guidelines show the Kwik-Way lathe setup, the Accu-turn lathe setup is similar. Setting Up the Vehicle Put the transmission in Neutral. If you are not using the power drive system, start the engine, and let it warm up to its normal operating temperature so the idle speed will stabilize to its lowest rpm. Page 5054 94. TP Sensor Page 1050 Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution diagram set to get a more detailed picture of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Page 338 DTC P1861 thru P2238 Page 3122 DTC P0979 thru P1193 Page 2668 7. Remove the mid-frame cover clips and the IPU lid (A). 8. Measure voltage at the junction board terminals (A). There should be 30 V or less. If more than 30 V is present, there is a problem in the circuit; do the DTC troubleshooting first. 9. Remove the foam inserts. 10. Remove the mid-frame (A), then remove the front and rear IPU braces (B) from the junction board. 11. Disconnect the high-voltage cables (C) from the output terminals on the junction board, and wrap them with insulating tape. Page 6720 The road crown gauge measures the amount of road crown. Almost all roads have a crown to help drain water during rainstorms. Use the suction cup to attach the road crown gauge bracket to the vehicle in a vertical position. If necessary, bend the bracket until the gauge is vertical. Once you attach and align the road crown gauge, calibrate the gauge to zero. There are two ways to calibrate the gauge: ^ Park the vehicle on a level surface, such as an alignment rack, and calibrate the gauge by moving the gauge until the ball is on the zero mark. ^ If you do not have a perfectly flat surface, park the vehicle on a reasonably flat surface and note the gauge reading. Turn the vehicle 1800 and, with the tires in the same spot, note the new gauge reading. Then move the gauge half of the difference. For example, if your first reading is +3 and, after moving the vehicle, the gauge reads -1, then the difference is 4 degrees. Position the gauge to read +1. NOTE: You must calibrate the gauge with the same weight in the vehicle that you will use for the test-drive. If you plan to have an assistant help you during the test-drive, calibrate the gauge while both of you are sitting in the vehicle. Page 9288 84. Middle of Floor Locations 135. Under Right Side of Kick Panel (CVT) Page 506 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: - Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest OHMS" range. Page 10141 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. Locations Body Control Module: Locations 109. Top Front of Battery Module 110. Top Rear of Battery Module Page 3650 Part 1 Of 2 Specifications Wheel Fastener: Specifications Wheel Lug Nut Torque: 79.6 ft. lbs. Page 2766 23. Battery Module Fan Motor Page 8020 Wire Color Coding Distinct Of Circuit By Wire Base Color All wires have color-coded insulation. Wires belonging to a system's main harness will have a single color. Wires belonging to a system's sub-circuits will have a colored stripe. Striped wires use the codes found in the chart to show wire size and colors. Abbreviations are used to indicate wire color within a circuit diagram. Wire Color Abbreviations The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics: WHT................................... White YEL................................... Yellow BLK................................... Black BLU................................... Blue GRN................................... Green RED................................... Red ORN................................... Orange PNK................................... Pink BRN................................... Brown GRY................................... Gray PUR................................... Purple LT BLU................................... Light Blue LT GRN................................... Light Green The wire insulation has one color or one color with another color stripe. The second color is the stripe. How to Identify Connector Terminals How to Identify Connector Terminals Page 1517 Wipers/Washers - Component Location Index Page 260 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 1339 Variable Valve Timing Pressure Switch: Service and Repair VTEC Pressure Switch Replacement 1. Disconnect the VTEC pressure switch connector, then remove the VTEC pressure switch (A). 2. Install the VTEC pressure switch using a new O-ring (B). Page 452 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. Page 4473 9. Front of Engine Page 4874 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: Page 6427 Connectors - "C" Page 2342 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: Page 1239 11. Middle of Engine Page 212 Page 3792 7. Remove the rear clips from the middle bulkhead carpet. 8. Remove the under-cover (two bolts, two clips, and three screw clips). 9. Remove the intelligent power unit (I PU) lid (six Torx bolts and 17 hex bolts). 10. Measure the voltage between the junction board terminals. There should be 10 V or less. ^ If you have more than 10 V, there's a problem in the MA system. Look for and troubleshoot any DTCs before continuing. ^ If you have 10 V or less, continue to step 11. A/C - Heater Blows Cold Air/A/C Blows Hot Air Heater Control Valve Cable: Technical Service Bulletins A/C - Heater Blows Cold Air/A/C Blows Hot Air Heater Blows Cold Air; A/C Blows Warm Air NOTE: This article applies to all A/C-equipped Honda models that use a heater valve cable. Got a vehicle in your shop that blows cold air from the heater or warm air from the A/C? The problem could just be the heater valve cable has slipped off the heater valve arm. There's a real easy fix for this problem. Slip the heater valve cable back onto the heater valve arm. Then cut yourself a 10 mm length of 3.5 mm vacuum hose (P/N 95005-35008-10M, H/C 2325058), and slide it onto the arm. This holds the cable on the arm nice and snug so it won't slip off. Page 6611 Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box Page 4054 Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Testing and Inspection Power Relay Test Power Relay Test Normally-open type A: 1. Turn the battery module switch OFF, and measure the voltage. 2. Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is disconnected. A/C compressor clutch relay - Air fuel ratio sensor relay - Condenser fan relay - Daytime running lights relay (Canada) - Headlight relay 1 - Headlight relay 2 - High speed battery module fan control relay - High speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - High voltage conductor control relay - Horn relay - Ignition hold relay - Low speed battery module fan control relay - Low speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - Power window relay - Radiator fan relay - Rear window defogger relay - Reverse relay - Starter cut relay - Taillight relay Locations Condenser Fan Motor Relay: Locations Relay And Control Unit Location - Engine Compartment Page 9417 Wire Color Coding Distinct Of Circuit By Wire Base Color All wires have color-coded insulation. Wires belonging to a system's main harness will have a single color. Wires belonging to a system's sub-circuits will have a colored stripe. Striped wires use the codes found in the chart to show wire size and colors. Abbreviations are used to indicate wire color within a circuit diagram. Wire Color Abbreviations The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics: WHT................................... White YEL................................... Yellow BLK................................... Black BLU................................... Blue GRN................................... Green RED................................... Red ORN................................... Orange PNK................................... Pink BRN................................... Brown GRY................................... Gray PUR................................... Purple LT BLU................................... Light Blue LT GRN................................... Light Green The wire insulation has one color or one color with another color stripe. The second color is the stripe. How to Identify Connector Terminals How to Identify Connector Terminals Page 5676 Transmission Speed Sensor: Service and Repair Speed Sensors Replacement 1. Disconnect the connectors from the drive pulley speed sensor (A), the driven pulley speed sensor (B), and the CVT speed sensor (C). 2. Remove the 6 mm bolts, then remove the speed sensors. 3. Replace the O-rings (D) with new ones before installing the speed sensors. 4. Install the drive pulley speed sensor, driven pulley speed sensor, and CVT speed sensor. 5. Check the speed sensor connectors for rust, dirt, or oil, then connect the connectors securely. Page 8687 Page 7948 1. At the iPod, make sure the iPod connector is fully engaged. Is the iPod connector fully engaged? Yes - Go to step 2. No - Properly connect the iPod connector and retest. Replace the cable if the connector is loose or damaged. 2. Disconnect the customer's iPod. 3. Connect headphones to the iPod, and listen to the sound quality. Is the sound quality normal in the headphones? Yes - Go to step 4. No - There is static from the customer's uploaded music. If the volume is weak or low, verify the iTunes sound level setting. 4. Connect a known-good iPod and retest. NOTE: Known-good test iPods are available from Tech Line. Is the sound quality normal over the speakers? Yes - The vehicle is functioning normally. Do an iPod reset on the customer's iPod and retest. If the problem does not go away, have the service advisor explain to the customer that the vehicle is operating properly and advise the customer to: ^ Install the latest iPod firmware. ^ Consult the general information at www.apple.com. This is not a comprehensive list, only a suggested starting point for the customer to troubleshoot the iPod. No - Go to step 5. 5. Disconnect the known-good iPod. 6. Do a vehicle battery cable reset: ^ Remove the negative and positive battery cables. Use a jumper wire to short the two cables together, then turn the ignition switch to ON (II) and wait 15 minutes. ^ Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), and remove the jumper wire. Reconnect the positive battery cable first, then reconnect the negative cable. 7. Reconnect the customer's iPod and retest. Is the sound quality normal over the speakers? Yes It is an intermittent audio unit/Music Link failure, and the system is OK at this time. No - Do the "Check mark is not shown on iPod display screen, radio will not switch to CD-C or CD4 mode" troubleshooting. Music Link has no sound, check mark is shown on iPod display screen. 1. At the Music Link interface unit, make sure both connectors are fully engaged, and the cables do not have any broken or bent pins. NOTE: To release the Music Link interface unit connectors, you must pull back on the lock sleeves. Does either cable have the connector partially disengaged, or are any pins broken or bent? Yes - Reconnect or replace the loose or damaged cable. No - Go to step 2. 2. At the audio unit, make sure the cable connectors and the connector pin fits are tight. Also check that the optional Y-bus harness (if installed) connector and connector pin fits are tight. Do the cable connections and pins fit properly? Yes - Substitute a known-good iPod and retest. If the sound is normal, do an iPod reset, and retest. Testing and Inspection Fuel Cut Control Unit: Testing and Inspection Fuel Cut Relay Test / Normally-Open Type A Fuel Cut/PGM-FI Main - Relay 1. Turn the battery module switch OFF, and measure the voltage. 2. Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No.3 and No.4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals when power is disconnected. Page 6631 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. Locations Relay And Control Unit Locations - Dashboard Service and Repair Fuel Door Release Cable: Service and Repair Fuel Fill Door Opener Cable Replacement NOTE: - Put on gloves to protect your hands. - Take care not to scratch the body and related parts. - Take care not to kink the cable. 1. Remove these items: - Middle floor panel - Right trunk side bulkhead - Carpet, as necessary 2. Disconnect the fuel fill door opener cable (A) from the fuel fill door opener (B), and remove the fuel fill door latch (C) from the body by turning it 90°. 3. Using a clip remover, detach the clips (D, E) and remove the cable cushion (F) from the body, then remove the fuel fill door opener cable. Take care not to kink the cable. 4. Install the cable in the reverse order of removal, and replace any damaged clips and cable cushions Page 6990 19. Install the hub bearing unit (A) on the knuckle (B), and tighten the flange bolts (C) to the specified torque. 20. Install the splash guard. NOTE: Replace the splash guard if it is corroded. 21. Press a new hub bearing unit (A) into the hub (B) using the special tools and a press. 22. Install the knuckle/hub/hub bearing unit in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - Use a new spindle nut on reassembly. - Before installing the new spindle nut, apply a small amount of engine oil to the seating surface of the nut. After tightening, use a drift to stake the spindle nut shoulder against the driveshaft. - Tighten all mounting hardware to the specified torque values. - Before installing the hub/hub bearing unit, clean the mating surface of the hub/hub bearing unit and the knuckle. - Before installing the brake disc, clean the mating surface of the hub and the inside of the brake disc. - Before installing the wheel, clean the mating surface of the brake disc and the inside of the wheel. - Set the wheel alignment. Page 8970 In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locater) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: - Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. Page 1539 The steering wheel offset gauge is a sticker that attaches to the steering wheel and the steering column cover. Place the sticker on the steering wheel when the steering wheel is straight. When you test-drive the vehicle, you can read how many millimeters the steering wheel is off-center. NOTE: If the vehicle is pulling, repairing the pull may correct the steering wheel offset. Page 5809 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 1300 9. Knock Sensor Page 185 110. DRL And Low Beam Cut Relays (Canada) Air Bag Disarming and Arming Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Service and Repair Air Bag Disarming and Arming General Precautions Please read the following precautions carefully before performing the airbag system service. Observe the instructions described or the airbags could accidentally deploy and cause damage or injuries. Except when performing electrical inspections, always turn the ignition switch OFF and disconnect the negative cable from the battery, and wait at least three minutes before beginning work. NOTE: The contents in the memory is not erased even if the ignition switch is turned OFF or the battery cables are disconnected from the battery. Use the replacement parts which are manufactured to the same standards as the original parts and quality. Do not install used SRS parts from another vehicle. Use only new parts when making SRS repairs. Carefully inspect any SRS part before you install it. Do not install any part that shows signs of being dropped or improperly handled, such as dents, cracks or deformation. Before removing any of the SRS parts (including the disconnection of the connectors), always disconnect the SRS connector. Use only a digital multimeter to check the system. If it is not a Honda multimeter, make sure its output is 10 mA (0.01 A) or less when switched to the lowest value in the ohmmeter range. A tester with a higher output could cause accidental deployment and possible injury. Do not put objects on the front passenger's airbag. The original radio has a coded theft protection circuit. Be sure to get the customer's radio code before disconnecting the battery cable. Page 6734 The road crown gauge measures the amount of road crown. Almost all roads have a crown to help drain water during rainstorms. Use the suction cup to attach the road crown gauge bracket to the vehicle in a vertical position. If necessary, bend the bracket until the gauge is vertical. Once you attach and align the road crown gauge, calibrate the gauge to zero. There are two ways to calibrate the gauge: ^ Park the vehicle on a level surface, such as an alignment rack, and calibrate the gauge by moving the gauge until the ball is on the zero mark. ^ If you do not have a perfectly flat surface, park the vehicle on a reasonably flat surface and note the gauge reading. Turn the vehicle 1800 and, with the tires in the same spot, note the new gauge reading. Then move the gauge half of the difference. For example, if your first reading is +3 and, after moving the vehicle, the gauge reads -1, then the difference is 4 degrees. Position the gauge to read +1. NOTE: You must calibrate the gauge with the same weight in the vehicle that you will use for the test-drive. If you plan to have an assistant help you during the test-drive, calibrate the gauge while both of you are sitting in the vehicle. Page 335 DTC P1486 thru P1585 Page 10121 Cavity Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity / terminal shown is # 6. Circuit Schematics Page 3315 5. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). Measure voltage between body ground and PGM-FI main relay (fuel pump) 4P connector terminal No.2, and between PGM-FI main relay (IGP) 4P connector terminal No.4. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 7. NO - Go to step 6. 6. Check for a blown No.2 (15 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box. Is the fuse blown? YES - Repair the short in the wire between PGM-FI main relay and the No.2 fuse. NO - Repair the open in the wire between the PGM-FI main relay and the No.2 (15 A) fuse. 7. Turn the ignition switch OFF, and disconnect ECM connector A (32P). 8. Check for continuity between PGM-FI main relay (fuel pump) 4P connector terminal No.3 and ECM connector terminal A15. Is there continuity? YES - Go to step 9. NO - Repair open in the wire between the PGM-FI main relay and the ECM (A15). 9. Reconnect ECM connector A (32P) and the PGM-FI main relay connectors. Page 2464 29. Left Front Side of Engine Compartment 30. Left Front Side of Engine Compartment Page 2122 Crankshaft Main Bearing: Service and Repair For further information regarding this component and the system it is a part of, please refer to Cylinder Block Assembly; Service and Repair. Specifications Pressure Plate: Specifications Pressure plate Warpage Standard or New .................................................................................................................................. ...................................... 0.03 mm (0.001 inch) Limit ........................................................................... ............................................................................................................... 0.15 mm (0.006 inch) Height of diaphragm spring fingers Measure with feeler gauges and special tool Standard or New .................................................................................................................................. ................................ 0.06 mm (0.002 inch) Limit ................................................................................. ....................................................................................................... 0.8 mm (0.03 inch) Page 1187 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 2531 29. Left Front Side of Engine Compartment 30. Left Front Side of Engine Compartment Page 4535 In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locater) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: - Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. Page 4872 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Locations Throttle Position Sensor: Locations PGM-FI System - Component Location Index Locations 39. Upper Left Kick Panel Area Specifications Piston: Specifications Piston Skirt O.D. at 11 mm (0.4 inch) from bottom of skirt Standard or New ...................................................................................................................................... 71.977 71.995 mm (2.8337 - 2.8344 inch) Service Limit ................................................................................. .......................................................................................... 71.97 mm (2.833 inch) Clearance in cylinder Standard or New .......................................................................................................................................... 0.005 0.043 mm (0.0002 - 0.0017 inch) Service Limit ................................................................................... .......................................................................................... 0.05 mm (0.002 inch) Page 105 Relay And Control Unit Locations - Floor And Rear Page 7742 Seat Belt: Service and Repair SRS Components Seat Belt Replacement SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations and the precautions and procedures in the SRS section before performing repairs or service. NOTE: Check the seat belts for damage, and replace them if necessary. Be careful not to damage them during removal and installation. Seat Belt NOTE: - Before disconnecting the negative cable from the battery, write down the frequencies for the radio's preset buttons. - Disconnect the negative cable from the battery, and wait at least three minutes before beginning work. 1. Remove the middle floor panel, and remove the seat belt in the numbered sequence. 2. Install in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - Check that the retractor locking mechanism functions. - Assemble the washers, collar, and bushing on the upper and lower anchor bolts. Refer to the Anchor Belt Construction. - If the seat belt tensioner has been deployed, replace the front seat belt protector with a new one. - Apply liquid thread lock to the anchor bolts before reinstallation. - Before installing the anchor bolts, make sure there are no twists or kinks in the seat belt. - Enter the customer's radio station preset. - Reset the clock. - Do the ECM idle learn procedure. Page 6056 Failed Part: P/N 1K000-PHM-000 Defect Code: 03214 Symptom Code: 03205 Skill Level: Repair Technician INSPECTION PROCEDURE 1. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 2. Remove the cargo floor mat (see page 20-44 of the 2000-04 Insight Service Manual). (In ISIS, use the keyword FLOOR MAT, and select Interior Trim Removal/Installation - Cargo Area from the list.) 3. Remove the battery module switch cover (two bolts), then remove the locking cover from the switch. 4. Flip the battery module switch to OFF. Reinstall the locking cover. 5. Wait at least 5 minutes to let the capacitors in the system discharge. Page 33 EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 3913 Procedure 1. Connect the scan tool to the vehicle's data link connector (DLC), and bring up the tool's generic OBD II mode. 2. Start the engine. 3. Test-drive the vehicle under stop-and-go conditions with short periods of steady cruise. During the drive, decelerate (with the throttle fully closed) for 5 seconds. After about 3.5 miles (5.6 km), the readiness code should switch from incomplete to complete. 4. If the readiness code is still set to incomplete, check for a temporary DTC. If there is no DTC, the enable criteria was probably not met; repeat the procedure. Air/Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor Heater Monitor Readiness Code NOTE: All readiness codes are cleared when the battery is disconnected or when the ECM is cleared with the OBD II scan tool or Honda PGM Tester. Procedure 1. Connect the scan tool to the vehicle's data link connector (DLC), and bring up the tool's generic OBD II mode. 2. Start the engine, and let it idle for 1 minute. The readiness code should switch from incomplete to complete. 3. If the readiness code is still set to incomplete, check for a temporary DTC. If there is no DTC, repeat the procedure. Misfire Monitor and Readiness Code - This readiness code is always set to available because misfiring is continuously monitored. - Monitoring pauses, and the misfire counter resets, if the vehicle is driven over a rough road. - Monitoring also pauses, and the misfire counter holds at its current value, if the throttle position changes more than a predetermined value, or if driving conditions fall outside the range of any related enable criteria. Fuel System Monitor and Readiness Code - This readiness code is always set to available because the fuel system is continuously monitored during closed loop operation. - Monitoring pauses when the catalytic converter, EVAP control system, and A/F sensor monitors are active. - Monitoring also pauses when any related enable criteria are not being met. Monitoring resumes when the enable criteria is again being met. Comprehensive Component Monitor and Readiness Code This readiness code is always set to available because the comprehensive component monitor is continuously running whenever the engine is cranking or running. EGR Monitor and Readiness Code NOTE: - Do not turn the ignition switch off during the procedure. - All readiness codes are cleared when the battery is disconnected or when the ECM is cleared with the OBD II scan tool or Honda PGM Tester. Enable Criteria - ECT at 176 °F (80 °C) or higher Procedure 1. Connect the scan tool to the vehicle's data link connector (DLC), and bring up the tool's generic OBD II mode. 2. Start the engine. 3. Drive at a steady speed with the CVT in D position or M/T in 4th gear, 50 - 62 mph (80 - 100 km/h) or above for more than 10 seconds. 4. With the CVT in D position or M/T in 4th gear, decelerate from 62 mph (100 km/h) or above by completely releasing the throttle for at least 5 seconds. If the engine is stopped during this procedure, go to step 3 and do the procedure again. 5. If the readiness code is still set to incomplete, check for a temporary DTC. If there is no DTC, the enable criteria was probably not met; repeat the procedure. Page 9733 Splices Components Ground - "G" Page 1032 Dimmer Switch: Electrical Diagrams Page 6933 46. Ignition Key Switch/Key Light M/T, CVT Page 6894 3. Remove the glove box, then disconnect the passenger's airbag 2P connector (A) from the floor wire harness. Seat Belt Tensioner: 4. Remove the B-pillar lower trim panel, then disconnect the seat belt tensioner2P connector (A) from the floor wire harness. Page 1436 Neutral Safety Switch: Testing and Inspection Neutral Position Switch Signal Circuit Troubleshooting M/T model 1. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 2. Shift the transmission to 1st gear. 3. Measure voltage between ECM connector terminals B16 and B20. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 4. NO - Go to step 6. 4. Shift the transmission to neutral position. 5. Measure voltage between ECM connector terminals B16 and B20. Is voltage less than 1.0 V? YES - The neutral position switch signal is OK. NO - Go to step 12. 6. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 7. Disconnect the neutral position switch 2P connector. 8. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). Emissions/Engine Controls - MIL ON/DTC P1457 (EVAP) Engine Control Module: Customer Interest Emissions/Engine Controls - MIL ON/DTC P1457 (EVAP) 03-001 January 28, 2003 Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED MIL Comes On With DTC P1457: EVAP Bypass Solenoid Valve Failure SYMPTOM The MIL is on, and DTC P1457 [leak detected in EVAP control system (EVAP control canister system)] is set. PROBABLE CAUSE The EVAP bypass solenoid valve can fail due to corrosion. The solenoid valve may get water inside. If the water contains road salt, the solenoid windings could corrode, causing the valve to fail. In a few rare instances, the corrosion could be severe enough to cause an internal short in the solenoid valve, which could damage the ECM/PCM. If this happens, both the bypass solenoid valve and the ECM/PCM would need to be replaced. Vehicles driven in the Northeastern part of the U.S. are more likely to have this problem because of the salting of roads during the winter months. Vehicles driven where salt is not used on the roads are much less likely to have this problem. VEHICLES AFFECTED 1998-02 Accord 1998-00 Civic 1998-01 CR-V 2000-02 Insight 1999-03 Odyssey 2003 Pilot 2000-03 S2000 CORRECTIVE ACTION Test and, if necessary, replace the EVAP bypass solenoid valve. Replace the ECM/PCM if needed. PARTS INFORMATION Refer to the parts catalog for the appropriate part number and Honda code. WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Failed Part: EVAP Bypass Solenoid Valve: Page 10221 36. Left Side of Dash 75. In Driver's Door (Passenger's Similar) Locations 10. Middle of Engine Locations Wheel Speed Sensor: Locations 1. Right Side of Engine Compartment 34. Left Side of Engine Compartment Page 8745 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Page 5457 Shifter CVT: Service and Repair Shift Lever Removal Shift Lever Removal 1. Remove the front console. 2. Shift the transmission into the [R] position. 3. Remove the nut securing the shift cable end, then separate the cable end from the shift lever. 4. Rotate the socket holder (A) on the shift cable (B) a quarter turn; the projection (C) on the socket holder faces direction to remove. Then slide the holder to remove the shift cable from the shift cable bracket base (D). Do not remove the shift cable by twisting the shift cable guide (E). 5. Disconnect the shift lock solenoid connector (A) and Dark Din switch/indicator lamp connector (B). 6. Remove the shift lever assembly. Page 4498 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 7553 52. Outside Air Temperature Sensor Capacity Specifications Fluid - M/T: Capacity Specifications M/T Fluid Change ................................................................................................................................................ ............................................................ 1.5L (1.59 Qt) Overhaul .......................................................... ................................................................................................................................................ 1.6L (1.69 Qt) Page 6282 Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box Part 2 Page 9841 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 5130 9. Knock Sensor Page 1948 4. Remove the hub cap (A), raise the stake (B), and remove the spindle nut (C). 5. Remove the brake drum (A), and remove the hub bearing unit (B) from the spindle. If the brake drum has stuck to the hub bearing unit, pull them out together. Do not tap on the aluminum brake drum. 6. If the hub bearing unit has been removed together with the brake drum, separate these by placing the brake drum on a flat surface, and lightly tapping the hub flange (A) with a plastic hammer. 7. Install the hub bearing unit in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - Use a new spindle nut on reassembly. - Before installing the new spindle nut, apply a small amount of engine oil to the seating surface of the nut. After tightening, use a drift to stake the spindle nut shoulder against the spindle. - Tighten all mounting hardware to the specified torque values. - Before installing the brake drum, clean the mating surface of the hub and the inside of the brake drum, and apply grease (Dow Corning Molykote M77) to the inside circumference (A) of the center hole edge of the brake drum. Do not contaminate the brake drum sliding surface with grease. - Use a new hub cap on reassembly. - Before installing the wheel, clean the mating surface of the brake disc and the inside of the wheel. Page 554 Fuel Pump Relay: Diagnostic Aids Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Page 7044 Page 6702 Relay Box: Electrical Diagrams Connector-to-Fuse/Relay Box Index Image 6-1 Page 5155 126. Below Right Side of Engine Page 3081 DTC P1861 thru P2238 Refrigerant Recovery Refrigerant: Service and Repair Refrigerant Recovery CAUTION: - Air conditioning refrigerant or lubricant vapor can irritate your eyes, nose, or throat. - Be careful when connecting service equipment. - Do not breathe refrigerant or vapor. Use only service equipment that is U.L.-listed and is certified to meet the requirements of SAE J2210 to remove HFC-134a (R-134a) from the air conditioning system. If accidental system discharge occurs, ventilate work area before resuming service. Additional health and safety information may be obtained from the refrigerant and lubricant manufacturers. 1. Connect R-134a refrigerant recovery/recycling/charging station (A) to the high-pressure service port (B) and the low-pressure service port (C), as shown, following the equipment manufacturer's instructions. 2. Measure the amount of refrigerant oil removed from the A/C system after the recovery process is completed. Be sure to put the same amount of new refrigerant oil back into the A/C system before charging. Page 8516 Trunk / Liftgate Lock Cylinder: Service and Repair Hatch Lock Cylinder Replacement NOTE: - Take care not to scratch the body. - Take care not to bend the cylinder rod. 1. Remove the right side of the rear trim panel 2. Remove the hatch lock cylinder as shown. 3. Install the hatch lock cylinder in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - Make sure the cylinder switch connector is plugged in properly and the cylinder rod is connected properly. - Make sure the hatch opens properly and locks securely. Locations 136. Right Side of Engine Compartment Page 4141 DTC P0563 thru P0748 Page 9079 NO - Go to step 19. 19. Disconnect each of the components or the connectors below, one at a time, and check for continuity between PGM-FI main relay (IGP) 4P connector terminal No.1 and body ground. PGM-FI main relay (FUEL PUMP) - ECM connector B (25P) - Each injector 2P connector - Idle air control (IAC) valve 3P connector Is there continuity? YES - Go to step 20. NO - Replace the component that made continuity to body ground go away when disconnected. If the item is the ECM, update the ECM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM, replace the original ECM. Also replace the No.7 (15 A) fuse. 20. Disconnect the connectors of all these components. - PGM-FI main relay (FUEL PUMP) - ECM connector B (25P) - Injectors - Idle air control (IAC) valve 21. Check for continuity between PGM-FI main relay (IGP) 4P connector terminal No.2 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Repair short in the wire between the PGM-FI main relay (IGP) and each item. Also replace the No.7 (15 A) fuse. NO - Replace the PGM-FI main relay (IGP). Also replace the No.7 (15 A) fuse. 22. Inspect the No.2 (15 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box. Is the fuse OK? YES - Go to step 29. NO - Go to step 23. Page 5839 Raise the vehicle on a lift. Check for loose wheel bearings. You must replace loose wheel bearings before you refinish the brake discs. If you do not, the brake lathe will not correct for brake disc runout, resulting in an uneven finish and brake pulsation. Remove the front wheels, then reinstall the wheel nuts with flat washers to compensate for the removed wheel. Torque the wheel nuts to the required specification (see the appropriate service manual). Remove the caliper assembly. Use a wire or a S-hook to hold the caliper to the spring or damper tower. Do not kink the brake hose or use it to support the caliper. If you are not using the power drive system and the vehicle has ICS or VSA, make sure you install a brake pad spreader between the pads on the hanging caliper. Also, make sure the ICS or VSA is turned off anytime the engine is started. If the system is not turned off, the brakes could activate, causing the brake pads on the hanging caliper to hit each other or the caliper pistons to fall out. Install the vibration damper on the brake disc. If you are not using the power drive system, make sure you install the protective band around the wheel nuts. If you are not using the power drive system, use a fabric tie-down strap to secure the brake disc that is opposite to the one you are refinishing. If you are working on a Prelude with ATTS, do not use a tie-down strap; let both wheels turn freely. Mounting the Brake Lathe Remove the tool bed from the brake lathe, then mount the brake lathe to the steering knuckle with a Honda 1-piece speed mount. These mounts provide quicker, more accurate mounting, and can be ordered through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program (see ORDERING INFORMATION). Control Unit Input Test Key Reminder Switch: Testing and Inspection Control Unit Input Test Lights-on, Key-in, Seat Belt Reminder, Key Light Timer, Indicator/Reminder Systems 1. Remove the gauge assembly. 2. Disconnect the gauge assembly 30P connector A and 22P connector B. 3. Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are making good contact. - If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system. - If the terminals are OK, go to step 4. Page 8448 Capacity Specifications Fluid - M/T: Capacity Specifications M/T Fluid Change ................................................................................................................................................ ............................................................ 1.5L (1.59 Qt) Overhaul .......................................................... ................................................................................................................................................ 1.6L (1.69 Qt) Page 5244 Transmission Speed Sensor: Service and Repair Speed Sensors Replacement 1. Disconnect the connectors from the drive pulley speed sensor (A), the driven pulley speed sensor (B), and the CVT speed sensor (C). 2. Remove the 6 mm bolts, then remove the speed sensors. 3. Replace the O-rings (D) with new ones before installing the speed sensors. 4. Install the drive pulley speed sensor, driven pulley speed sensor, and CVT speed sensor. 5. Check the speed sensor connectors for rust, dirt, or oil, then connect the connectors securely. Page 9857 136. DRL Control Unit (Canada) Locations Shift Indicator: Locations Component Location Index Page 9278 46. Ignition Key Switch/Key Light M/T, CVT Page 8987 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Page 4994 Relay And Control Unit Locations - Dashboard Locations Instrument Panel View Page 6042 50. Neutral Position Switch (M/T) Removal and Installation Engine Control Module: Service and Repair Removal and Installation How to Remove the ECM for Testing NOTE: - Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the radio, then write down the frequencies for the radio's preset buttons before you disconnect the negative cable from the battery. - Enter the anti-theft code, then the customer's radio station presets, and set the clock after you reconnect the negative cable to the battery. 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. 2. Pull the passenger's side carpet back to expose the ECM (A). 3. Unbolt the ECM cover (B). 4. Lift the lower edge of the ECM cover off of the lower studs. Make sure the ECM is not touching the studs. 5. Lift the upper edge of the ECM cover enough to clear the upper studs, then pull the cover down away from the evaporator drain tube. 6. Unbolt the ECM from the cover. 7. Disconnect the ECM connectors. 8. Install the ECM in reverse order of removal. 9. Do the ECM idle learn procedure Page 2774 Battery Cooling Fan Resistor: Diagrams 2. Battery Module Fan Resistor 6. MPI Module Fan Control Resistor, High Speed 11. MPI Module Fan Control Resistor, Low Speed Testing and Inspection Wiper Control Module: Testing and Inspection Control Circuit Input Test 1. Remove the gauge assembly. 2. Disconnect the 22P connector from the gauge assembly. 3. Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are making good contact. - If the terminals are bent, loose, or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system. - If the terminals look OK, go to step 4. 4. With the connector still disconnected, make these input tests at the connector. - If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system. - If all the input tests prove OK, replace the printed circuit board in the gauge assembly. Page 5137 96. Left Rear Side of PCU Page 9896 40. Upper Left Kick Panel Area Page 2582 Exhaust Pipe: Testing and Inspection Tailpipe Emissions Test 1. Start the engine. Hold the engine at 3,000 rpm with no load (in neutral) until the radiator fan comes on, then let it idle. 2. Connect a tachometer. 3. Check and, if necessary, adjust the idle speed . 4. Warm up and calibrate the CO meter according to the meter manufacturer's instructions. 5. Check idle CO with the headlights, heater blower, rear window defogger, cooling fan, and air conditioner off. CO meter should indicate 0.1 % maximum. Page 2806 9. Measure voltage at the junction board terminals. ^ If the reading is 30 V or less, the capacitors are discharged enough for you to continue; go to step 10. ^ If the reading is more than 30 V, there is a problem with the IMA system. Troubleshoot the system using the IMA section of the service manual, then continue with this procedure. 10. Lift out the battery module foam insert. 11. Replace the BCM (2002-04 Insights) or the BCM and the MCM (2000-01 Insights): ^ Remove the mounting bolts. ^ Disconnect the connectors: The BCM has three; the MCM has five. Page 2959 6. Remove the right trunk shelf support (five clips and two bolts). 7. Remove the six mid-frame cover bolts. Remove the intelligent power unit (IPU) lid (17 bolts). 8. Measure the voltage at the junction board terminals. There should be 30 V or less. If you read more than 30 V, there is a problem in the circuit; do the DTC troubleshooting first. 9. Look at the part number on the motor control module (MCM), and refer to this chart. If there is a replacement part number listed for it, you need to order a replacement MCM. 10. Look at the part number on the battery condition monitor (BCM). If the part number is not 1K100-PHM-A01, you need to order a replacement BCM. Page 5784 5. Screw in the brake pedal position switch (A) until its plunger is fully pressed (threaded end (B) is touching the pad (C) on the pedal arm). Then back off the switch 1/4 turn to make 0.3 mm (0.01 inch) of clearance between the threaded end and the pad. Tighten the locknut firmly. Connect the brake pedal position switch connector. Make sure the brake lights go off when the pedal is released. 6. After adjusting the brake pedal position switch, adjust the idle stop switch (D) with the same procedure used in step 5. When finished, start the engine, and make sure the engine stops when the brake pedal is pressed (CVT). Note these items during adjustment: ^ When either the brake pedal position switch or the idle stop switch needs adjusting, both switches must be adjusted together to keep their functions synchronized. Always adjust the brake pedal position switch first, then adjust the idle stop switch; never adjust the switches independently. ^ When the brake pedal is released, the brake pedal position switch is normally open and the idle stop switch is normally closed. 7. Check the brake pedal free play. Locations Power Door Locks - Component Location Index Page 4855 Connectors - "C" Locations Tires - Tubless Tire Repair Information Tires: Technical Service Bulletins Tires - Tubless Tire Repair Information 06-082 December 15, 2006 Applies To: ALL Tubeless Tire Repair Information This service bulletin provides the resource information required to repair tubeless tires on Honda automobiles and light trucks. To properly repair a tire, follow the Rubber Manufacturers Association (RMA) "Puncture Repair Procedures for Passenger and Light Truck Tires" outlined on the RMA wall poster. One wall poster has been provided to your dealership. Additional posters can be ordered through Helm, the RMA website, www.rma.org, or the tire manufacturers. Michelin(R) PAX System(TM), tires can be repaired using the same repair procedures described on the RMA poster. Whenever you repair a PAX System tire, you must inspect the support ring. Refer to the PAX System support ring section of this service bulletin for inspection procedures. WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION Refer to the tire manufacturer for warranty information. REQUIRED MATERIALS ^ 1/8 inch Patch-plug with lead wire ^ 1/4 inch Patch-plug with lead wire ^ 1/8 inch Plugs (stem)* ^ 1/4 inch Plugs (stem)* ^ 1/4 inch Patches* ^ 3/4 inch Patches* ^ Chemical cement ^ Liquid buffer ^ Rim-bead sealer ^ Inner liner sealer REQUIRED TOOLS ^ Tire stitcher, 1-1/2 inch wheel ^ Tire crayons ^ Tire test tank ^ Awl or probe ^ Flexible blade skiving knife ^ 1/8 inch Carbide tire tool with adapter ^ 1/4 inch Carbide tire tool with adapter ^ Low speed buffer with quick release chuck and exhaust hose ^ Carbide buffing wheel with adapter Component Locations 13. Middle of Engine Page 9397 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Page 7302 Condenser Fan: Description and Operation How the Circuit Works With A/C Voltage is provided at all times to the radiator fan relay contacts through fuse 11, and to the A/C condenser fan relay contacts through fuse 19. With the ignition switch in ACC (I) or ON (II), voltage is provided to the coils of the relays through fuse 16 (in the under-dash fuse/relay box). The relays are grounded by either the radiator fan switch or by the ECM (only the A/C condenser fan relay). Grounding the relays energizes their coils and applies battery voltage to the radiator and A/C condenser fan motors. Both fans then run until the fan switch or the ECM remove ground from the relay coils. Without A/C Voltage is provided at all times to the radiator fan relay contacts through fuse 11. With the ignition switch in ACC (I) or ON (II), voltage is provided to the coil of the relays through fuse 16 (in the under-dash fuse/relay box.) The relay is grounded by the radiator fan switch. Grounding the relay energizes the coil and applies battery voltage to the radiator fan motor. The fan will then run until the fan switch removes ground. Refer to the Cooling System for specific tests and troubleshooting procedures. Recall - Emissions/ECM Replacement Technical Service Bulletin # 02-081 Date: 021217 Recall - Emissions/ECM Replacement 02-081 December 17, 2002 Applies To: 2000 Insight - ALL 2001 Insight with M/T - ALL Emissions Recall: Insight ECM BACKGROUND The ECM does not correctly identify all malfunctions of the air/fuel ratio sensor (sensor 1). Because of this, the vehicle does not meet state and federal emissions regulations. CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION All owners of affected vehicles will be mailed a notification of this campaign. The customer notification letter is shown in this service bulletin. CORRECTIVE ACTION Replace the ECM. After you replace the ECM, reinitialize the immobilizer system, and do the idle learn procedure. PARTS INFORMATION WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION Operation Number: 122124 Flat Rate Time: 1.0 hour Failed Part: P/N 37820-PHM-A01 H/C 6344626 Defect Code: 5BL Contention Code: L78 Skill Level: Repair Technician REPAIR PROCEDURE NOTE: Make sure you have all of your customer's keys. 1. Carefully remove the passenger's door sill trim. If you break any of the trim clips, replace them (P/N 91560-S06-003, H/C 6353502). Page 668 11. Use the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) with version 1.011.014 or later software to clear any set DTCs. 12. Reinstall the IPU lid and the mid-frame cover bolts. Torque the bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb-ft). 13. Reinstall the right trunk shelf support. Torque the bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb-ft). 14. Remove the battery module switch locking cover, and flip the switch to ON. Reinstall the locking cover. 15. Reinstall the battery module switch cover. 16. Reinstall the cargo floor mat. 17. Return the vehicle to your customer. Advise your customer that it is OK to drive the vehicle as is until the replacement parts arrive, but the vehicle will have reduced power (no IMA assist). 18. Order a battery module and, if needed, a BCM, an MCM, or both. REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Remove the battery module from the vehicle (see page 12-113 of the service manual). (In ISIS, use the keyword BAT MOD, and select Battery Module Removal/Installation from the list.) 2. Remove the lifting tool from the battery module. 3. Remove the mounting bolts for the MCM and the BCM (eight total). Unplug the electrical connectors (five for the MCM and three for the BCM), then remove the modules. 4. Install the MCM and the BCM in the new battery module. Use the original MCM and BCM if no replacement was needed; otherwise, use the appropriate replacement parts. Torque the mounting bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb-ft). 5. Install the lifting tool on the battery module. 6. With someone to help you, carefully lift the battery module into the vehicle, and set it down into position. Remove the lifting tool. 7. Plug in the connectors, and install the Y condenser harness. Then install the mounting bolts. Torque the bolts to 24 N.m (17 lb-ft). 8. Install the battery module air duct. Torque the bolt to 9.8 N~m (7.2 lb-ft). 9. Connect the high voltage cables to the junction board. Torque the bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb-ft). 10. Install the front and rear IPU braces and the mid-frame. Torque the bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb-ft). 11. Install the foam inserts. Page 7253 30. Left Front Side of Engine Compartment Hybrid System - IMA Indicator ON/DTC's P1447/P1449 Battery Control Module: Customer Interest Hybrid System - IMA Indicator ON/DTC's P1447/P1449 04-028 March 16, 2011 Applies To: 2000-04 Insight - ALL IMA System Indicator On With IMA DTC 77 (P1447) or DTC 78 (P1449) (Supersedes 04-028, dated April 30, 2010, to revise the information marked by the black bars and asterisks) *REVISION SUMMARY Under WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION, some operation number and flat rate time information was changed.* PROBLEM The IMA system indicator comes on and IMA DTC 77 (P1447) (battery module deterioration) or DTC 78 (P1449) (battery module deterioration) is set. CORRECTIVE ACTION Replace the battery module. Inspect the motor control module (MCM) and the battery condition monitor (BCM) to determine if they also need to be replaced. PARTS INFORMATION WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION The normal warranty applies. NOTE: IMA components (battery module, battery condition monitor, and motor control module) are covered under warranty for 8 years or 80,000 miles, whichever comes first. Page 2352 17. VTEC Solenoid Valve Page 3682 Terminals - "T" Shielding Switches Fuses Page 5719 197. Driving Mode Buttons (CVT) Page 8027 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: - Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest OHMS" range. Page 1509 Power Window Switch: Testing and Inspection Passenger's Window Switch Test/Replacement Passenger's Window Switch Test/Replacement 1. Remove the passenger's door panel. 2. Disconnect the 5P connector (A) from the passenger's power window switch (B). 3. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table. 4. If the continuity is not as specified, remove the two screws and replace the switch. Page 7772 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. Page 1664 1. Apply a force of 98 N (10 kgf, 22 lbs.), and measure the deflection at the mid point (A) between the water pump and crankshaft pulleys. If the belt is worn or damaged, replace it. If the belt needs adjustment, go to step 2. Adjustment 2. Loosen the idler pulley center nut (B). 3. Turn the adjusting bolt (C) to obtain the proper belt deflection, then retighten the idler pulley center nut. 4. Recheck the belt deflection. 5. If you installed a new belt, run the engine for five minutes, then readjust the belt to the used belt specification. Page 145 Cavity Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity / terminal shown is # 6. Circuit Schematics Page 5688 Shift Interlock Solenoid: Diagrams 186. Inhibitor Solenoid (CVT) 187. Shift Lock Solenoid (CVT) Page 3932 Wires Page 9400 Locations/Component Locations/Locations By Photo Number Connector Views: Connector terminal views (references to VIEWS) referred to within these diagrams can be found at Connector Views by View Number. See: Diagrams/Connector Views/Connector Views By View Number Exterior Lights - Circuit Diagram (Brake Lights) Page 3212 Engine Control Module: Testing and Inspection How to Troubleshoot Circuits At the ECM/PCM How To Troubleshoot Circuits At The ECM Special Tools Required - Digital Multimeter KS-AHM-32-003 (1) or a commercially available digital multimeter - Backprobe Set 07SAZ-001000A (2) 1. Connect the backprobe adapters (A) to the stacking patch cords (B), and connect the cords to a multimeter (C). 2. Using the wire insulation as a guide for the contoured tip of the backprobe adapter, gently slide the tip into the connector from the wire side until it touches the end of the wire terminal. 3. If you cannot get to the wire side of the connector or the wire side is sealed (A), disconnect the connector and touch the tester probe (B) to terminals (C) from the terminal side. Do not force the probe into the connector. NOTE: Do not puncture the insulation on a wire. Punctures can cause poor or intermittent electrical connections. Page 8336 - Weld the front wheelhouse. - Weld the wheelhouse upper member. Page 8529 Power Mirror Switch: Testing and Inspection Power Mirror Switch Test/Replacement 1. Remove the instrument panel. 2. Disconnect the 10P connector (A) from the power mirror switch (B). 3. Check for continuity between the terminals in switch position according to the table. 4. If the continuity is not as specified, remove the two screws and replace the switch. Page 2610 NOTE: Once you submit your order, you can track it using the Order Status Inquiry screen on the iN. For details, go to IMA BATTERY ORDER PROGRAM FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS in this service bulletin. 7. You will receive a remanufactured IMA battery unit packed in a reusable shipping box. Save this box and the packing materials. You must return the failed IMA battery core in this box. Otherwise, your dealership risks being billed a core loss charge of $3,000. 8. Remove the failed IMA battery: ^ Refer to the IMA section of the appropriate service manual, or ^ Online, enter keywords IMA REMOVAL, then select Battery Module Removal/Installation from the list. 9. Install the remanufactured IMA battery: ^ Refer to the IMA section of the appropriate service manual, or ^ Online, enter keywords IMA REMOVAL, then select Battery Module Removal/Installation from the list. 10. Put the failed IMA battery unit core in the same box that the remanufactured unit came in. NOTE: ^ Make sure the failed IMA battery core is not disassembled. If the core is disassembled, your dealership will be debited a core loss charge of $3,000. ^ If you do not return the IMA battery in this same box, your warranty claim will be debited, and the core will be sent back to your dealership. Parts Manager: 11. The IMA Battery Order form you submitted is kept on the iN for 60 days. Print out a copy to put in the box with your core return: ^ From the iN main menu, select SERVICE. ^ Select Transactions. ^ Select Advanced Search, and enter a date range. ^ Select Filtered by, then select Service. ^ Under Transaction Description, select IMA Battery Order, then go back to the top of the page and select Search. ^ Scroll down to the appropriate VIN, then select it to view the form. ^ Review the form, then print out a copy by selecting the printer icon. 12. Print out a copy of the Core Return Update Acknowledgement to put in the box with your core return: ^ From the iN main menu, select PARTS. ^ Select Returns and Surplus. ^ Select Core Return. ^ Select Core/VIN. ^ Select the order reference number associated with the VIN. ^ Enter the serial number from the core being returned, then select Submit. ^ Review the form, then print out a copy by selecting the printer icon. Page 4886 Vacuum Hose Routing - CVT Model Page 3051 18. Remove the EPS fuse from the under-hood fusel relay box. 19. With the transmission in neutral and the clutch released, run the engine at 3,500 rpm until the battery level indicator shows at least 50 percent charge. 20. Turn off the engine, then install the EPS fuse. 21. Enter the radio station presets, and set the clock. 22. Center-punch a completion mark above the sixth character of the engine compartment VIN. Page 8450 Page 3569 Idle Speed: Testing and Inspection Idle Stop Switch Signal Circuit Troubleshooting CVT model 1. Check the idle stop switch position. Is the position OK? YES - Go to step 2. NO - Check the idle stop switch adjustment. 2. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 3. Press the brake pedal. 4. Measure voltage between the ECM connector terminals A31 and B20. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 5. NO - Go to step 7. 5. Release the brake pedal. 6. Measure voltage between ECM connector terminals A31 and B20. Is voltage less than 1.0 V? YES - Idle Stop Switch signal is OK. NO - Go to step 14. 7. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 8. Disconnect the Idle Stop Switch switch 2P connector. 9. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). Locations Windshield Washer Switch: Locations 50. Right Side of Steering Column Page 3531 Camshaft Position Sensor: Diagrams 63. TDC Sensor 1 64. TDC Sensor 2 Page 7851 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. Page 3399 16. Measure voltage between the clutch switch 2P connector terminal No.2 and body ground with the clutch pedal pressed. Is there approx. 5 V? YES - Repair short in the wire between the clutch switch and G402. NO - Repair open in the wire between the ECM (B14) and the clutch switch. Page 1822 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: - Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest OHMS" range. Page 9267 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 8869 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: - Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest OHMS" range. Page 1054 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. Page 4556 Variable Valve Timing Solenoid: Testing and Inspection VTEC Solenoid Valve Test 1. Remove the engine cover. 2. Disconnect the 1P connector from the VTEC solenoid valve. 3. Measure resistance between the terminal and body ground. 4. If the resistance is within specifications, remove the VTEC solenoid valve assembly (A) from the cylinder head, and check the VTEC solenoid valve filter/O-ring (B) for clogging. If there is clogging, replace the engine oil filter and the engine oil. Page 4303 Wire Color Abbreviations Page 4693 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: - Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest OHMS" range. Diagram Information and Instructions Fuel Pump Relay: Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System Terminal Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown below is #6. Service and Repair Fuel Pressure Release: Service and Repair Fuel Pressure Relieving Before disconnecting fuel pipes or hoses, release pressure from the system by loosening the sealing nut on top of the fuel rail. 1. Write down the frequencies for the radio's preset buttons. 2. Disconnect the battery negative cable from the battery negative terminal. 3. Remove the fuel fill cap. 4. Use a wrench on the sealing nut (A) at the fuel rail. 5. Place a rag or shop towel (B) over the sealing nut. 6. Slowly loosen the sealing nut one complete turn. NOTE: Replace all washers whenever the sealing nut is loosened or removed. Page 4028 In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locater) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: - Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. Page 7035 Suspension Strut / Shock Absorber: Service and Repair Rear Damper Removal and Installation NOTE: Bolts and nuts with the [star] mark are special corrosion-resistant Dacro fasteners. Use the same type if replacement is necessary. Removal 1. Raise the rear of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper location. Remove the fender skirts and rear wheels on the right and left side of the vehicle. 2. Place a jack under each end of the rear axle beam. 3. Remove the flange bolt (A) at the bottom of the damper. 4. Remove the flange bolts (B) at the top of the damper, and remove the damper assembly (C). 5. Install the damper in the reverse order of removal, and note the following item: Install the bolts at the top and bottom of the damper and lightly tighten, raise the suspension to load the vehicle weight, then fully tighten the bolts to the specified torque. Inspection 1. Compress the damper assembly (A) by hand, and check for smooth operation through a full stroke, both compression and extension. The damper should extend smoothly and constantly when compression is released. If it does not, the gas is leaking and the damper should be replaced. 2. Check for oil leaks, abnormal noises, and binding during these tests. Page 8546 Paint damage can appear in any form. Before making a repair, check the damaged area carefully, and determine the best procedure for repairing the damage. The following shows you refinishing methods for various types of paint damage or defects. Preprocessing of Painting Preprocessing of Painting 1. Featheredging NOTE: The paint film damaged area should be sanded flat and smooth. - If this is not done correctly the end results will not be acceptable. Damage to metal surface: Sand the damaged area flat and smooth. Use the disc sander and #60-#80 disc paper. Page 9557 In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locater) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: - Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. Page 7635 6. Remove the B-pillar lower trim panel assembly, then disconnect the seat belt tensioner 2P connector (A) from the floor wire harness. 7. Pull the seat belt (A) out all the way and cut it. 8. Cut off the air-bag or seat belt tensioner connector, strip the ends of the airbag wires and seat belt tensioner wires and connect the deployment tool alligator clips (A) to the airbags and seat belt tensioners. Place the deployment tool at least 30 feet (10 meters) away from the vehicle. 9. Connect a 12 volt battery to the tool. - If the green light on the tool comes on, the igniter circuit is defective and cannot deploy the airbag or seat belt tensioner. Go to Disposal of Damaged Components. Page 3691 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: - Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest OHMS" range. Page 10183 - Taillight relay Page 7005 Page 5415 Transmission Mode Switch: Service and Repair Mode Switch Replacement 1. Remove the screws securing the mode switch, then remove the switch. 2. Disconnect the connector from the switch. 3. Install the new mode switch. Page 1729 Fluid - M/T: Fluid Type Specifications M/T Fluid Type ........................................................................................................................................ Honda Manual Transmission Fluid (MTF): P/N 08798-9016 If not available you may use 10W-30 or 10W-40 motor oil as a temporary replacement. An SG grade is preferred, but an SH or SJ grade may be used if SG grade is not available. Replace with Honda MTF as soon as it is convenient. Using motor oil can cause stiffer shifting because it does not contain the proper additives. Exhaust System - Catalytic Converter Noise Catalytic Converter: Technical Service Bulletins Exhaust System - Catalytic Converter Noise SOURCE: Honda Service News TITLE: Catalytic Converter Noise? Check the Heat Shield APPLIES TO: All models SERVICE TIP: Got a vehicle in your shop that buzzes or rattles, and you suspect the catalytic converter is the culprit? Before you start replacing the converter, first check the heat shield area. If there any stones or debris trapped inside, they can cause buzzing or rattling. Page 7187 First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Diagrams Page 8925 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 7268 Wire Color Abbreviations Exhaust System - Catalytic Converter Noise Catalytic Converter: Technical Service Bulletins Exhaust System - Catalytic Converter Noise SOURCE: Honda Service News TITLE: Catalytic Converter Noise? Check the Heat Shield APPLIES TO: All models SERVICE TIP: Got a vehicle in your shop that buzzes or rattles, and you suspect the catalytic converter is the culprit? Before you start replacing the converter, first check the heat shield area. If there any stones or debris trapped inside, they can cause buzzing or rattling. Locations Safing Sensor: Locations The safing sensor is located inside the SRS Unit, refer to SRS Unit / Service and Repair. Page 10315 139. Wiper/Washer Switch Page 4119 Page 2120 Main Bearing To Journal Oil Clearance Crankshaft Bore Code Location Crankshaft Bore Code Location Main Journal Code Locations Main Journal Code Locations Note: The main journal codes are stamped on the No. 1 web. Page 4047 116. PGM-FI Main Relay And A/T Reverse Relay (CVT) Page 705 Starting System - Component Location Index Campaign - ECM Update Engine Control Module: Recalls Campaign - ECM Update 00-042 April 5, 2000 Applies To: 2000 Insight - From VIN JHMZE1...YT000001 thru JHMZE1...YT000440 Product Update: Insight ECM BACKGROUND The engine may not start it the ambient temperature is below 0°F (-20°C). CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION All owners of affected vehicles will be mailed a notification of this campaign. An example of a customer notification is shown. CORRECTIVE ACTION Replace the ECM (engine control module) with an improved unit. After the ECM replacement, the immobilizer system must be reinitialized. Make sure you have all the customer's keys. Page 1001 Wire Color Abbreviations Page 8821 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 409 DTC P2240 thru U0073 Specifications Ball Joint: Specifications TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS Castle Nut Lower ................................................................................................................................. .................................. 54 - 64 Nm (43 - 51 ft. lbs.) Page 52 156. Keyless Door Lock Control Unit Locations 39. Upper Left Kick Panel Area Page 5640 204. TCM (CVT) Page 8887 Dimmer Switch: Electrical Diagrams Page 4256 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: Page 106 29. Left Front Side of Engine Compartment 30. Left Front Side of Engine Compartment Page 7773 First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 2002 Variable Valve Timing Actuator: Electrical Diagrams Diagram 31 Diagrams: Other diagrams referred to by number (See Diagram ##-#, etc.) within these diagrams can be found at Diagrams by Number. See: Diagrams/Electrical Diagrams/Diagrams By Number Locations: Location photographs (references to PHOTOS) referred to within these diagrams can be found at Locations by Photo Number. See: Locations/Component Locations/Locations By Photo Number Connector Views: Connector terminal views (references to VIEWS) referred to within these diagrams can be found at Connector Views by View Number. See: Diagrams/Connector Views/Connector Views By View Number Page 1573 The road crown gauge measures the amount of road crown. Almost all roads have a crown to help drain water during rainstorms. Use the suction cup to attach the road crown gauge bracket to the vehicle in a vertical position. If necessary, bend the bracket until the gauge is vertical. Once you attach and align the road crown gauge, calibrate the gauge to zero. There are two ways to calibrate the gauge: ^ Park the vehicle on a level surface, such as an alignment rack, and calibrate the gauge by moving the gauge until the ball is on the zero mark. ^ If you do not have a perfectly flat surface, park the vehicle on a reasonably flat surface and note the gauge reading. Turn the vehicle 1800 and, with the tires in the same spot, note the new gauge reading. Then move the gauge half of the difference. For example, if your first reading is +3 and, after moving the vehicle, the gauge reads -1, then the difference is 4 degrees. Position the gauge to read +1. NOTE: You must calibrate the gauge with the same weight in the vehicle that you will use for the test-drive. If you plan to have an assistant help you during the test-drive, calibrate the gauge while both of you are sitting in the vehicle. Locations Idle Control System - Component Location Index Page 3072 DTC P0158 thru P0400 Page 7785 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Page 2723 11. Lift out the battery module foam insert. 12. Remove the mounting bolts for the battery condition monitor (BCM) module and the motor control module (MCM). Disconnect the electrical connectors, then remove the modules. 13. Install the new BCM and MCM. Make sure all module connectors are secure. 14. Install the IPU lid. 15. Remove the locking cover from the battery module switch, install the 5 mm bolt, turn the switch on, reinstall the locking cover, and install the battery module switch cover. 16. Install the remaining parts in the reverse order of removal. 17. Reconnect the negative cable to the under-hood 12 V battery. Page 3206 ECM/PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector B (25P) Part 1 PGM-FI Main Relay Circuit Troubleshooting Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Testing and Inspection PGM-FI Main Relay Circuit Troubleshooting PGM-FI Main Relay Circuit Troubleshooting 1. Turn the ignition switch OFF, then disconnect the PGM-FI main relay connectors. 2. Check for continuity between body ground and PGM-FI main relay diode 2P connector terminal No.2. Is there continuity? YES - Go to step 3. NO - Repair open in the wire between the PGM-FI main relay and G101. 3. Measure voltage between body ground and PGM-FI main relay (IGP) 4P connector terminal No.2. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 5. NO - Go to step 4. 4. Check for a blown No.7 (15 A) fuse in the underhood fuse/relay box. Is the fuse blown? YES - Repair the short in the wire between the PGM-FI main relay and the No.7 (15 A) fuse. NO - Repair the open in the wire between the PGM-FI main relay and the No.7 (15 A) fuse. Page 1832 EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 9959 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. Page 2665 29. Connect the battery module fan 2P connector terminal No. 2 and body ground with a jumper wire. 30. Check for continuity between body ground and the high speed battery module fan control relay 4P connector terminal No. 2. Is there continuity? YES- Go to step 31. NO- Repair open in the wire between the battery module fan and the high speed battery module fan control relay 31. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 32. Measure voltage between body ground and the battery module fan 2P connector terminal No. 1. Is there battery voltage? YES- Substitute a known-good BCM module and the battery module fan, and recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away, replace the original BCM module and the battery module fan. NO- Check for: ^ A blown No. 24 IMA (7.5 A) fuse. ^ A open in the wire between the No. 24 IMA (7.5 A) fuse and the battery module fan. MPI Module Fan Keeps Running, or Always Runs at High Speed MPI module fan keeps running, or always runs at high speed NOTE: Information marked with an asterisk (*) applies to BATTFANH line. 1. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 2. Remove the cargo floor mat. 3. Turn the battery module switch OFF. 4. Remove the IPU lid. 5. Disconnect BCM module connector A (26P). Does the battery module fan run? YES- Go to step 6. NO- Substitute a known-good BCM module and recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away, replace the original BCM module. Page 2332 Variable Valve Timing Solenoid: Diagnostic Aids Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Page 8233 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. Page 5667 Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Testing and Inspection Mode Switch Test 1. Remove the screws securing the mode switch, then remove the switch. 2. Disconnect the connector from the switch. 3. Check the S mode switch for continuity between connector terminals No. 3 and No. 5. There should be continuity while pressing the S mode switch, and no continuity when the switch released. 4. Check the D mode switch for continuity between connector terminals No. 1 and No. 5. There should be continuity while pressing the D mode switch, and no continuity when the switch is released. 5. If either switch is faulty, replace it. 6. If the switch is OK, but switch failure occurred, check and repair the wire harness on the mode switch circuit. Page 10342 4. Disconnect the wiper motor connector from the hatch harness connector. 5. Pull the hatch harness out through the opening between the hatch frame and the wiper motor mounting bracket. 6. Apply a piece of self-adhesive foam padding from the kit to the edge of the motor mounting bracket. 7. Connect the sub-harness from the kit to the wiper motor connector. Page 842 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Capacity Specifications Refrigerant Oil: Capacity Specifications REFRIGERANT OIL CAPACITY REFRIGERANT OIL CAPACITY System Oil Capacity (Fluid Ounces) 4.33 oz. Page 7639 - Do not position yourself in front of the airbag during removal, inspection, or replacement. - Refer to the scrapping procedures for disposal of the damaged airbag. Page 972 57. Top Middle of Dash Page 1575 DIAGNOSTIC WORKSHEET REPAIR PROCEDURE A Page 7088 19. Install the hub bearing unit (A) on the knuckle (B), and tighten the flange bolts (C) to the specified torque. 20. Install the splash guard. NOTE: Replace the splash guard if it is corroded. 21. Press a new hub bearing unit (A) into the hub (B) using the special tools and a press. 22. Install the knuckle/hub/hub bearing unit in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - Use a new spindle nut on reassembly. - Before installing the new spindle nut, apply a small amount of engine oil to the seating surface of the nut. After tightening, use a drift to stake the spindle nut shoulder against the driveshaft. - Tighten all mounting hardware to the specified torque values. - Before installing the hub/hub bearing unit, clean the mating surface of the hub/hub bearing unit and the knuckle. - Before installing the brake disc, clean the mating surface of the hub and the inside of the brake disc. - Before installing the wheel, clean the mating surface of the brake disc and the inside of the wheel. - Set the wheel alignment. Page 30 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 1975 Terminals - "T" Shielding Switches Fuses Page 2187 Used Belt: 7.5 - 10.5 mm (0.30 - 0.41 inch) New Belt: 4.0 - 6.0 mm (0.16 - 0.24 inch) Adjustment 2. Loosen the idler pulley center nut (B). 3. Turn the adjusting bolt (C) to obtain the proper belt deflection, then retighten the idler pulley center nut. 4. Recheck the belt deflection. 5. If you installed a new belt, run the engine for five minutes, then readjust the belt to the used belt specification. Page 9844 53. Front Parking Light, Left Or Right Page 1099 Splices Components Ground - "G" Page 9396 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 6155 The battery module has four built-in thermistor-type temperature sensors, and a PTC (positive temperature coefficient) -type temperature sensor for each cell. BCM (Battery Condition Monitor) Module The BCM module determines the battery state of charge, and it controls the battery fan speed by looking at battery voltage, battery input/output current, and battery temperature. The BCM module then sends this information to the MCM to indicate the battery's state of charge and to keep the battery within predetermined limits. Because battery charging and discharging generates heat in the battery module, the BCM module also controls a fan that keeps the battery module from overheating. The fan operates in one of three modes: off, low, or high. If the BCM module detects an abnormality, it sends a signal to the MCM, which then turns on the IMA system indicator on the gauge assembly. Junction board The junction board, mounted on the battery module, houses high voltage components of the IMA system. The battery module switch, contacts, fuses, and the current sensors are all located on the junction board. Battery Module Switch The battery module switch is connected in series to the battery module fuse. Always turn the battery module switch to the OFF position whenever service or checks are required on or around the high voltage circuits. Follow these steps exactly: 1. Remove the switch cover from the IPU lid, then turn the switch OFF. 2. Wait at least 5 minutes. 3. Remove the IPU lid. 4. Measure voltage at the output terminals. Make sure the voltage is low enough for safe operation before any service is done to the car. Contactors The high voltage contactor and bypass contactor are connected at the positive (+) output side of battery module. These contactors are controlled by the Page 3771 DTC P1861 thru P2238 Heating & Manual HVAC Cabin Air Filter: Service and Repair Heating & Manual HVAC Dust and Pollen Filter Replacement The dust and pollen filter should be replaced every 15,000 miles (24,000 km) or 12 months whichever comes first. Replace the filter more often if the air flow is less than usual. 1. Remove the filter lid (A) from the heater duct, then remove the dust and pollen filter (B) by pulling it down. 2. Remove the filter (A) from the housing (B), and replace the filter. 3. Install the filter in the reverse order of removal. Page 986 91. Motor Current Sensor Page 7649 55. Under Middle of Dash Hybrid System - IMA Indicator ON/DTC's P1447/P1449 Hybrid Power Control Module: Customer Interest Hybrid System - IMA Indicator ON/DTC's P1447/P1449 04-028 March 16, 2011 Applies To: 2000-04 Insight - ALL IMA System Indicator On With IMA DTC 77 (P1447) or DTC 78 (P1449) (Supersedes 04-028, dated April 30, 2010, to revise the information marked by the black bars and asterisks) *REVISION SUMMARY Under WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION, some operation number and flat rate time information was changed.* PROBLEM The IMA system indicator comes on and IMA DTC 77 (P1447) (battery module deterioration) or DTC 78 (P1449) (battery module deterioration) is set. CORRECTIVE ACTION Replace the battery module. Inspect the motor control module (MCM) and the battery condition monitor (BCM) to determine if they also need to be replaced. PARTS INFORMATION WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION The normal warranty applies. NOTE: IMA components (battery module, battery condition monitor, and motor control module) are covered under warranty for 8 years or 80,000 miles, whichever comes first. Page 4975 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 3892 ECM Inputs and Outputs at Connector A (32P) Part 2 Page 9044 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. Page 1102 Wire Color Coding Distinct Of Circuit By Wire Base Color All wires have color-coded insulation. Wires belonging to a system's main harness will have a single color. Wires belonging to a system's sub-circuits will have a colored stripe. Striped wires use the codes found in the chart to show wire size and colors. Abbreviations are used to indicate wire color within a circuit diagram. Wire Color Abbreviations The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics: WHT................................... White YEL................................... Yellow BLK................................... Black BLU................................... Blue GRN................................... Green RED................................... Red ORN................................... Orange PNK................................... Pink BRN................................... Brown GRY................................... Gray PUR................................... Purple LT BLU................................... Light Blue LT GRN................................... Light Green The wire insulation has one color or one color with another color stripe. The second color is the stripe. How to Identify Connector Terminals How to Identify Connector Terminals Page 762 Wipers/Washers - Component Location Index Page 8889 Dimmer Switch: Testing and Inspection Dash Lights Brightness Controller Control Circuit Input Test 1. Remove the gauge assembly. 2. Disconnect the 22P connector from the gauge assembly. 3. Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are making good contact. - If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system. - If the terminals look OK, go to step 4. 4. With the connector still disconnected, make these input tests at the connector. - If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system. - If all the input tests prove OK, replace the printed circuit board in the gauge assembly. Page 7576 43. Heater Core Temperature Sensor Page 3171 70. Right Side of Floor 95. Left Side of PCU (PCU Removed) Page 5024 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. Page 7401 Evaporator Core: Service and Repair Components Replacement Evaporator Components Replacement 1. Remove the filter lid (A), then pull out the dust and pollen filter (B). 2. Pull out the evaporator temperature sensor (C) from the evaporator fins. 3. Remove the screws, carefully separate the upper housing (D) from the lower housing (E), then remove the evaporator core (F). 4. If necessary, remove the expansion valve (G). Use a second wrench to hold the other fitting on the valve so the evaporator line won't twist. Leave the first fitting loosely connected so you can use it to hold the valve while you loosen the second fitting. 5. Reassemble in the reverse order of disassembly, and note these items: - Replace the 0-rings with new ones at each fitting, and apply a thin coat of refrigerant oil before installing them. Be sure to use the correct 0-rings for HFC-134a (R-134a) to avoid leakage. - Immediately after using the oil, reinstall the cap on the container, and seal it to avoid moisture absorption. - Install the capillary tube (H) directly against the outlet line, and wrap it with electrical tape (I). - Reinstall the evaporator temperature sensor in its original location. - Make sure no air is leaking from the upper housing and the lower housing fitting. Page 8865 All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416 etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector or by a capital letter (A, B, C etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Connector Views that shows the connector terminals wire colors connector cavity numbers and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints shown on diagram [8] . Except for the DLC (data link connector) disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554 for example means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Page 8672 123. Hatch Latch/Unlock Switch A/T - Avoiding Fluid Contamination Fluid - A/T: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Avoiding Fluid Contamination SOURCE: Honda Service News TITLE: Avoiding Comebacks From A/T Contamination APPLIES TO: All models SERVICE TIP: Installing a reman A/T? Here are some important tips to keep in mind to ensure a first-time fix and to avoid any come-backs: - If the vehicle has an ATF cooler, make sure you clean the cooler with the ATF Cooler Cleaner (P/N GHTTTCF6H). See S/B 89-022, ATF Cooler Cleaner, for details. - If the reman A/T kit includes an in-line filter, don't forget to install it. If the vehicle already has an in-line filter from an earlier A/T replacement, then remove the existing filter, and install the new one. - Spray the driveshaft splines with solvent and compressed air before installing them in the reman A/T. If the failed A/T had a speed sensor, make sure it's clean before you install it. Debris from the failed A/T can catch in the driveshaft splines or on the speed sensor and contaminate the reman A/T. - If the reman A/T comes with a heater/cooler, make sure you install the reman A/T with that heater/cooler. Never install the heater/cooler from the failed A/T; you could contaminate the reman A/T. Specifications Page 9142 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 37 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. Page 7330 First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 3472 Oxygen Sensor: Service and Repair Secondary HO2S Replacement Secondary HO2S Replacement NOTE: When Secondary HO2S is replaced, Third HO2S must be replaced at the same time. ('02-03 M/T model only) 1. Disconnect the secondary HO2S 4P connector (A), and remove the secondary HO2S (B). 2. Install the secondary HO2S in the reverse order of removal. Page 2139 Piston: Testing and Inspection For further information regarding this component and the system it is a part of, please refer to Cylinder Block Assembly; Testing and Inspection. Page 197 Headlamp Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relay Test Normally-open type A: 1. Turn the battery module switch OFF, and measure the voltage. 2. Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is disconnected. A/C compressor clutch relay - Air fuel ratio sensor relay - Condenser fan relay - Daytime running lights relay (Canada) - Headlight relay 1 - Headlight relay 2 - High speed battery module fan control relay - High speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - High voltage conductor control relay - Horn relay - Ignition hold relay - Low speed battery module fan control relay - Low speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - Power window relay - Radiator fan relay - Rear window defogger relay - Reverse relay - Starter cut relay Page 4091 - Taillight relay Component Locations Brake Fluid Level Sensor/Switch: Component Locations Gauges - Component Location Index Page 1206 129. Hazard Warning Switch Page 6775 Alignment: Specifications Trim Height Honda Motor Company does not list ride height/trim height specifications. Component Locations Power Windows - Component Location Index Page 7978 Question: Who do I call if I need help diagnosing the problem or if I have technical questions about the unit? Answer: If you cannot find the answers in the appropriate service manual, service bulletins, or ServiceNews articles on iN, create a Tech Line access code, then call Tech Line: 1. From the iN main menu, select SERVICE. 2. Select Tech Line. A dropdown menu appears, then select Tech Line. The ISIS main screen appears. 3. Select SEARCH BY VEHICLE, and enter any vehicle with any keyword like NAVI, AUDIO, or RES. 4. At the top of the screen you will see this statement: If you cannot resolve the problem with the information below, then click Tech Line. Select Tech Line. 5. The Tech Line access code screen appears. Fill in all the required fields, then select SUBMIT. 6. Have the access number ready when you call Tech Line. Question: Do I need a Tech Line reference number to order a remanufactured audio/navigation/RES unit? Answer: No. Question: What year and model audio/navigation/RES unit can I order through the warranty audio order program? Answer: Most current models are available through the vehicle's standard warranty period. If your application is not available, you will receive a message instructing you to call the Re manufactured Parts Dealer Service Group at 888-997-7278. Question: How can I track my order once I submit it? Answer: To track your order, go the Warranty Audio Order VIN Inquiry screen on the iN. 1. From the iN main menu, click on PARTS. 2. Click on Parts Ordering. 3. Click on Audio VIN Inquiry. 4. Enter a date in the All Orders Accepted Since box, then click on Submit. The AUDIO VIN INQUIRY ACKNOWLEDGEMENT screen appears, listing orders by VIN, ORD REF (Order Reference), STAT (Status), SHIP DATE, SHIPPER, and PART NUMBER. The status of your order is displayed by one of these codes: Codes generated by RPO Tech Line: ^ PEND - Your order is waiting to be processed by RPO Tech Line. ^ HOLD - Your order is waiting for additional dealer diagnosis. ^ ERR - Your order caused an error; call. ^ DENY - RPO Tech Line denied your order; call. ^ APPR - RPO Tech Line approved your order and forwarded it to AHM Parts. Codes generated by AHM Parts Division: ^ BO/TOS - Your order is on back order or is temporarily out of stock. ^ CAN/BOC - Your order has been cancelled contact your assigned parts center. Page 6838 134. Under Right Side of Kick Panel (CVT) Page 8178 3. Install the door glass and regulator in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - Before installing the regulator, apply multipurpose grease to all the sliding surfaces of the regulator. - Make sure the connector is plugged in properly. - Roll the glass up and down to see if it moves freely without binding. - Make sure that there is no clearance between the glass and glass run channel when the glass is closed. - Adjust the position of the glass as necessary. - Check for water leaks. - Test-drive and check for wind noise and rattles. - When reinstalling the door panel, make sure the plastic cover is installed properly and sealed around its perimeter. Page 4110 Page 9118 Wire Color Coding Distinct Of Circuit By Wire Base Color All wires have color-coded insulation. Wires belonging to a system's main harness will have a single color. Wires belonging to a system's sub-circuits will have a colored stripe. Striped wires use the codes found in the chart to show wire size and colors. Abbreviations are used to indicate wire color within a circuit diagram. Wire Color Abbreviations The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics: WHT................................... White YEL................................... Yellow BLK................................... Black BLU................................... Blue GRN................................... Green RED................................... Red ORN................................... Orange PNK................................... Pink BRN................................... Brown GRY................................... Gray PUR................................... Purple LT BLU................................... Light Blue LT GRN................................... Light Green The wire insulation has one color or one color with another color stripe. The second color is the stripe. How to Identify Connector Terminals How to Identify Connector Terminals Page 1268 Page 9518 In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locater) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: - Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. Page 7965 Ramsey, NJ 07446 800-433-9657 (Visteon offers an open line of credit. Call their 800 number to establish an account.) NOTE: ^ The manufacturer will repair the unit and ship it back within 5-7 working days, via UPS ground prepaid or 2nd Day Air (whichever you requested). Do not forget to include the shipping cost in your dealership payment. Units damaged by misuse or mishandling cannot be shipped back within the usual 5-7 days. ^ Each manufacturer's guarantee for the repair differs. To confirm the repair guarantee, contact the manufacturer using the phone number listed above. 10. To check on the status of your repair order, call the manufacturer. If your customer has any further questions or concerns, have them call Automobile Customer Service at 800-999-1009. NOTE: A damaged unit may need extra repair. If so, the manufacturer will call you with an estimate of any added charges. ^ If you accept the estimate, mail a dealership check for the additional amount to the manufacturer, authorize the increased amount to be applied to the credit card payment, or have the manufacturer ship the unit back to you, and you pay the difference upon arrival (C.O.D.). ^ If you reject the estimate, the faulty unit will be returned to you along with a refund. However, you will be charged $30.00 (C.O.D.) for diagnosis, shipping, and handling. The unit will be shipped back to you, via UPS Ground. COMPLETING THE OUT-OF-WARRANTY/NEW REPLACEMENT AUDIO SYSTEM COMPONENT REPAIR FORM Page 8515 Trunk / Liftgate Lock Cylinder: Testing and Inspection Hatch Key Cylinder Switch Test 1. Open the hatch and remove the rear trim panel. 2. Disconnect the 3P connector (A) from the key cylinder switch (B). 3. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table. 4. If the continuity is not as specified, replace the switch. Testing and Inspection Valve: Testing and Inspection For further information regarding this component and the system it is a part of, please refer to Cylinder Head Assembly; Testing and Inspection. Page 973 62. Sunlight Sensor Campaign - ECM Update Engine Control Module: Recalls Campaign - ECM Update 00-042 April 5, 2000 Applies To: 2000 Insight - From VIN JHMZE1...YT000001 thru JHMZE1...YT000440 Product Update: Insight ECM BACKGROUND The engine may not start it the ambient temperature is below 0°F (-20°C). CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION All owners of affected vehicles will be mailed a notification of this campaign. An example of a customer notification is shown. CORRECTIVE ACTION Replace the ECM (engine control module) with an improved unit. After the ECM replacement, the immobilizer system must be reinitialized. Make sure you have all the customer's keys. Page 9952 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 9573 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 1610 Idle Speed: Testing and Inspection Idle Stop Switch Signal Circuit Troubleshooting CVT model 1. Check the idle stop switch position. Is the position OK? YES - Go to step 2. NO - Check the idle stop switch adjustment. 2. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 3. Press the brake pedal. 4. Measure voltage between the ECM connector terminals A31 and B20. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 5. NO - Go to step 7. 5. Release the brake pedal. 6. Measure voltage between ECM connector terminals A31 and B20. Is voltage less than 1.0 V? YES - Idle Stop Switch signal is OK. NO - Go to step 14. 7. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 8. Disconnect the Idle Stop Switch switch 2P connector. 9. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). Page 6661 39. Upper Left Kick Panel Area Page 4491 Variable Valve Timing Actuator: Diagnostic Aids Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Page 696 3. Remove the battery module switch cover (two bolts), then remove the locking cover from the switch. 4. Flip the battery module switch to OFF, then reinstall the locking cover. 5. Wait at least 5 minutes for the capacitors in the system to discharge. 6. Remove the rear clips from the middle bulkhead carpet. Page 10360 Wipers/Washers - Component Location Index Page 5035 Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Testing and Inspection Power Relay Test Power Relay Test Normally-open type A: 1. Turn the battery module switch OFF, and measure the voltage. 2. Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is disconnected. A/C compressor clutch relay - Air fuel ratio sensor relay - Condenser fan relay - Daytime running lights relay (Canada) - Headlight relay 1 - Headlight relay 2 - High speed battery module fan control relay - High speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - High voltage conductor control relay - Horn relay - Ignition hold relay - Low speed battery module fan control relay - Low speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - Power window relay - Radiator fan relay - Rear window defogger relay - Reverse relay - Starter cut relay - Taillight relay Page 7945 P/N 08A31-0F1-000, H/C 7512999 Music Link Interface Unit: P/N 08-8-1H1-10101, H/C 8582603 WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. FLAT RATE TIMES Failed Part: P/N 08~8-1H1-10031 H/C 8387052 Defect Code: 03214 Symptom Code: 01201 Skill Level: Repair Technician Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. Disclaimer General Information Music Link iPod Information Resources ^ Online at http//musiclink.honda.com/Tech Faq.html ^ Music Link Information Sheet (Honda ServiceNews, March 2006) ^ Music Link Frequently Asked Questions (Honda ServiceNews, March 2006) ^ Quick Reference Guide (supplied in Music Link kit) ^ User's Guide and Quick Reference Guide are available online: http://musiclink.honda.com/Down_Ref.html ^ General information: www.apple.com, then select support. ^ iPod firmware (unit software) version information: www.apple.com, then select Support. ^ To find out what (unit software) is loaded on the iPod: - Go to the Main Menu. Page 6637 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Page 306 7. Remove the rear clips from the middle bulkhead carpet. 8. Remove the under-cover (two bolts, two clips, and three screw clips). 9. Remove the intelligent power unit (I PU) lid (six Torx bolts and 17 hex bolts). 10. Measure the voltage between the junction board terminals. There should be 10 V or less. ^ If you have more than 10 V, there's a problem in the MA system. Look for and troubleshoot any DTCs before continuing. ^ If you have 10 V or less, continue to step 11. Page 1796 Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box Part 2 Page 1942 2. Remove the center cap (A), wheel nuts (B), and front wheel (C). 3. Remove the brake hose bracket mounting bolt (A). 4. Remove the caliper bracket mounting bolts (B), and remove the caliper assembly (C) from the knuckle. To prevent damage to the caliper assembly or brake hose, use a short piece of wire to hang the caliper assembly from the undercarriage. Do not twist the brake hose with force. 5. Remove the spindle nut (A). Page 5149 Camshaft Position Sensor: Diagrams 63. TDC Sensor 1 64. TDC Sensor 2 Locations 83. Under Driver's Seat Page 2081 In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locater) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: - Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. Page 8209 Splices Components Ground - "G" Page 1784 Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Description and Operation SRS Operation SRS Operation The main circuit in the SRS unit senses and judges the force of impact and, if necessary, ignites the inflator charges. If battery voltage is too low or power is disconnected due to impact, the voltage regulator and the back-up power circuit respectively will keep voltage at a constant level. For the SRS to operate: 1. The impact sensor must activate and send electronic signals to the microprocessor. 2. The microprocessor must compute the signals and send them to the airbag inflators (and seat belt tensioners). 3. The inflators must ignite and deploy the airbags (and activate the tensioners). Self-diagnosis System A self-diagnosis circuit is built into the SRS unit; when the ignition switch is turned ON (II), the SRS indicator comes on and goes off after about 6 seconds if the SRS is operating normally. If the indicator does not come on, or does not go off after six seconds, or if it comes on while driving, it indicates an abnormality in the SRS. The SRS must be inspected and repaired as soon as possible. For better serviceability, the memory will store the cause of the malfunction, and the data link circuit passes on information from memory to the data link connector (DLC). This information can be read with the Honda PGM Tester connected to the DLC (16P). Locations Low Beam Relay: Locations Instrument Panel View Page 4950 Diodes How to Identify Wiring Color-Coded Insulation Wire Color Locations Timing Component Alignment Marks: Locations Caution: Incorrect removal or installation of the timing chain can result in damage to internal engine components. For complete Timing Chain Removal and Installation information, please refer to Timing Chain; Service and Repair. Page 669 12. Install the IPU lid. Torque the bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb-ft). 13. Reinstall the right side trunk shelf support. Torque the bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb-ft). 14. Remove the battery module switch locking cover, and flip the switch to ON. Reinstall the locking cover. 15. Reinstall the battery module switch cover. 16. Reinstall the cargo floor mat. 17. Remove the No.15 (40A) fuse (EPS control unit) from the under-hood fuse/relay box. 18. With the transmission in Neutral, and the clutch released on M/T models, start the engine. Hold it at 3,500 rpm until the IMA battery level indicator shows at least 50 percent charge. 19. Turn off the engine, and reinstall the No.15 fuse. Disclaimer Page 2960 11. Use the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) with version 1.011.014 or later software to clear any set DTCs. 12. Reinstall the IPU lid and the mid-frame cover bolts. Torque the bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb-ft). 13. Reinstall the right trunk shelf support. Torque the bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb-ft). 14. Remove the battery module switch locking cover, and flip the switch to ON. Reinstall the locking cover. 15. Reinstall the battery module switch cover. 16. Reinstall the cargo floor mat. 17. Return the vehicle to your customer. Advise your customer that it is OK to drive the vehicle as is until the replacement parts arrive, but the vehicle will have reduced power (no IMA assist). 18. Order a battery module and, if needed, a BCM, an MCM, or both. REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Remove the battery module from the vehicle (see page 12-113 of the service manual). (In ISIS, use the keyword BAT MOD, and select Battery Module Removal/Installation from the list.) 2. Remove the lifting tool from the battery module. 3. Remove the mounting bolts for the MCM and the BCM (eight total). Unplug the electrical connectors (five for the MCM and three for the BCM), then remove the modules. 4. Install the MCM and the BCM in the new battery module. Use the original MCM and BCM if no replacement was needed; otherwise, use the appropriate replacement parts. Torque the mounting bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb-ft). 5. Install the lifting tool on the battery module. 6. With someone to help you, carefully lift the battery module into the vehicle, and set it down into position. Remove the lifting tool. 7. Plug in the connectors, and install the Y condenser harness. Then install the mounting bolts. Torque the bolts to 24 N.m (17 lb-ft). 8. Install the battery module air duct. Torque the bolt to 9.8 N~m (7.2 lb-ft). 9. Connect the high voltage cables to the junction board. Torque the bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb-ft). 10. Install the front and rear IPU braces and the mid-frame. Torque the bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb-ft). 11. Install the foam inserts. Diagrams 185. Idle Stop Switch (CVT) Page 2892 12. Install the IPU lid. Torque the bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb-ft). 13. Reinstall the right side trunk shelf support. Torque the bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb-ft). 14. Remove the battery module switch locking cover, and flip the switch to ON. Reinstall the locking cover. 15. Reinstall the battery module switch cover. 16. Reinstall the cargo floor mat. 17. Remove the No.15 (40A) fuse (EPS control unit) from the under-hood fuse/relay box. 18. With the transmission in Neutral, and the clutch released on M/T models, start the engine. Hold it at 3,500 rpm until the IMA battery level indicator shows at least 50 percent charge. 19. Turn off the engine, and reinstall the No.15 fuse. Disclaimer Page 1288 84. Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor Locations Steering Control Module: Locations Dash Board View Page 2078 All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416 etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector or by a capital letter (A, B, C etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Connector Views that shows the connector terminals wire colors connector cavity numbers and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints shown on diagram [8] . Except for the DLC (data link connector) disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554 for example means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Description and Operation Ignition Timing Connector: Description and Operation Ignition Timing Control The ECM contains the memory for basic ignition timing at various engine speeds and manifold absolute pressure. It also adjusts the timing according to engine coolant temperature. Page 2526 - Taillight relay Page 9480 EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Campaign - Integrated Motor Assist Controller Update Technical Service Bulletin # 01-102 Date: 011127 Campaign - Integrated Motor Assist Controller Update 01-102 November 27, 2001 Applies To: 2000-01 Insight with M/T - See VEHICLES AFFECTED Product Update: IMA Controller Modification BACKGROUND The IMA (Integrated Motor Assist) system supplies power to various 12-volt loads on the vehicle (lights, radio, windows, etc.) and assists the engine to improve vehicle performance. In very cold weather, power demands on the IMA battery module can exceed output, causing permanent damage to the battery module. VEHICLES AFFECTED Not all 2000-01 Insights with M/T are affected by this product update. Only vehicles that are registered and normally driven in cold weather areas are affected. Before you begin, verify that the vehicle is registered in one of the states affected by the update (see the map). Then check for vehicle eligibility by doing one of the following. ^ Verify that the customer has a notification letter. ^ Check the vehicle's VIN on your campaign responsibility report. ^ Do a VIN status inquiry on DCS. CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION All owners of affected vehicles will be sent a notification of this product update. An example of the customer notification. CORRECTIVE ACTION Replace the battery condition monitor (BCM) module and the motor control module (MCM). PARTS INFORMATION Recall 04V086000: Headlamp Switch/Connector Defect Headlamp Switch: Recalls Recall 04V086000: Headlamp Switch/Connector Defect DEFECT: On certain passenger vehicles, the low-beam terminal on the head light wire harness can overheat and could cause the low beams to fail without warning. An unexpected loss of low beams could result in a crash. REMEDY: Dealers will inspect the head light switch and coupler for signs of heat damage. If heat damage is present, the dealer will replace the switch and coupler. If no heat damage is present, the dealer will replace the head light switch and one mating pin in the coupler. The manufacturer has reported that owner notification was to begin on April 5, 2004 . Owners may contact Honda at 1-800-999-1009. Page 7922 6. Press and hold the green programming button on the side of the control unit until the LED on the instrument panel begins to flash, then release the button. (Steps 6 and 7 must be done within 5 seconds of each other.) 7. Press and release the bottom button on the transmitter. Verify that the LED goes out, the siren chirps twice, and the front sidemarker lights flash twice to confirm that the transmitter's code was accepted by the control unit. 8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK. Test the transmitter you just programmed. If it doesn't work repeat steps 2 thru 7. 9. If you have another transmitter to program, repeat steps 2 thru 7. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda using normal parts ordering procedures. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery. 98-02 Passport With Factory-Installed Security System 1998-02 Passport with factory-installed security system Programming the Transmitter To program the transmitters, use one of these two procedures: ^ Procedure One cancels all learned transmitter codes and adds one new transmitter. None of the previously programmed transmitters will work. Use this programming procedure only if all transmitters were lost or stolen, or if a new control unit has been installed. ^ Procedure Two adds additional transmitters without cancelling any of the previously learned codes. The system will accept up to four transmitters. Procedure One (cancels all codes, adds one new transmitter) 1. Open the driver's door. 2. Turn the ignition switch to the ACC position and then to the LOCK position three times. (This step must be completed within 10 seconds, or the system will not enter the programming mode.) 3. Within 10 seconds, close and open the door two times. 4. Turn the ignition switch to the ACC position and then to the LOCK position five times. Close and open the door. (Complete this process within 10 seconds.) Verify that the power door locks cycle once to confirm that the system is in programming mode. 5. Within 20 seconds, press the "LOCK" button on the transmitter you are programming. Verify that the door locks cycle once. 6. Within 20 seconds, press the "UNLOCK" button on the transmitter. Verify that the door locks cycle once to confirm that the system has accepted the transmitter's code. Procedure Two (adds transmitters) 1. Open the driver's door. 2. Turn the ignition switch to the ACC position and then to the LOCK position three times. (This step must be completed within 10 seconds, or the Locations Knock Sensor: Locations PGM-FI System - Component Location Index Recall 04V086000: Headlamp Switch/Connector Defect Headlamp Switch: All Technical Service Bulletins Recall 04V086000: Headlamp Switch/Connector Defect DEFECT: On certain passenger vehicles, the low-beam terminal on the head light wire harness can overheat and could cause the low beams to fail without warning. An unexpected loss of low beams could result in a crash. REMEDY: Dealers will inspect the head light switch and coupler for signs of heat damage. If heat damage is present, the dealer will replace the switch and coupler. If no heat damage is present, the dealer will replace the head light switch and one mating pin in the coupler. The manufacturer has reported that owner notification was to begin on April 5, 2004 . Owners may contact Honda at 1-800-999-1009. Page 8462 Programming the Transmitter NOTES: ^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased. ^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the programming mode. ^ You must complete each step within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from exiting the programming mode. Program the transmitters within 10 seconds. 1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter can be used for this step.) 3. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 4. Repeat steps 1 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2. 5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode. 7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted the transmitter's code. 8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda using normal parts ordering procedures. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery. 99-04 Odyssey EX 1999-00 Odyssey EX with factory-installed keyless entry system or dealer-installed security system *2001-04 Odyssey EX models with factory- installed security system* *Transmitter Identification Page 1006 Diodes How to Identify Wiring Color-Coded Insulation Wire Color Locations Heated Glass Element Switch: Locations Rear Window Defogger Page 2690 11. Use the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) with version 1.011.014 or later software to clear any set DTCs. 12. Reinstall the IPU lid and the mid-frame cover bolts. Torque the bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb-ft). 13. Reinstall the right trunk shelf support. Torque the bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb-ft). 14. Remove the battery module switch locking cover, and flip the switch to ON. Reinstall the locking cover. 15. Reinstall the battery module switch cover. 16. Reinstall the cargo floor mat. 17. Return the vehicle to your customer. Advise your customer that it is OK to drive the vehicle as is until the replacement parts arrive, but the vehicle will have reduced power (no IMA assist). 18. Order a battery module and, if needed, a BCM, an MCM, or both. REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Remove the battery module from the vehicle (see page 12-113 of the service manual). (In ISIS, use the keyword BAT MOD, and select Battery Module Removal/Installation from the list.) 2. Remove the lifting tool from the battery module. 3. Remove the mounting bolts for the MCM and the BCM (eight total). Unplug the electrical connectors (five for the MCM and three for the BCM), then remove the modules. 4. Install the MCM and the BCM in the new battery module. Use the original MCM and BCM if no replacement was needed; otherwise, use the appropriate replacement parts. Torque the mounting bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb-ft). 5. Install the lifting tool on the battery module. 6. With someone to help you, carefully lift the battery module into the vehicle, and set it down into position. Remove the lifting tool. 7. Plug in the connectors, and install the Y condenser harness. Then install the mounting bolts. Torque the bolts to 24 N.m (17 lb-ft). 8. Install the battery module air duct. Torque the bolt to 9.8 N~m (7.2 lb-ft). 9. Connect the high voltage cables to the junction board. Torque the bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb-ft). 10. Install the front and rear IPU braces and the mid-frame. Torque the bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb-ft). 11. Install the foam inserts. Page 3306 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. Page 6397 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box Fuse: Application and ID Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box Part 1 Page 9001 Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Service Precautions Airbag Handling and Storage Airbag Handling and Storage Do not disassemble an airbag. It has no serviceable parts. Once an airbag has been deployed, it cannot be repaired or reused. For temporary storage of the airbag during service, please observe the following precautions. - Store the removed airbag with the pad surface up. Never put anything on the removed airbag. - Keep free from any oil, grease, detergent, or water to prevent damage to the airbag assembly. - Store the removed airbag on a secure, flat surface away from any high heat source (exceeding 200 °F/93 °C). - Never perform electrical inspections to the airbags, such as measuring resistance. - Do not position yourself in front of the airbag assembly during removal, inspection, or replacement. Page 6104 The Honda Computer Memory Saver is indeed a real time saver, but here's a word of caution: Don't let the positive battery cable touch any body ground. It will cause a short that will either blow the fuse in the tool or cause a drop in system voltage resulting in the loss of any data that 5 in volatile memory. The Honda Computer Memory Saver is available through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program. To order one, just call and ask for FZRMS4000H. Hatch Lock Actuator/Latch Switch/Unlock Switch Test Power Door Lock Switch: Testing and Inspection Hatch Lock Actuator/Latch Switch/Unlock Switch Test Hatch Lock Actuator/Latch Switch/Unlock Switch Test 1. Open the hatch and remove the rear trim panel. 2. Disconnect the 6P connector (A) from the hatch lock actuator (B). Actuator Test: 3. Check actuator operation by connecting battery power and grounding according to the table. To prevent damage to the actuator, apply battery voltage only momentarily. Latch Switch Test: 4. Check for continuity between terminal No. 3 and terminal No. 6. - With the hatch open, there should be continuity. - With the hatch closed, there should be no continuity. Unlock Switch Test: 5. Check for continuity between terminal No. 1 and terminal No. 2. - With the hatch unlocked, there should be continuity. - With the hatch locked, there should be no continuity. 6. If the tests don't work as specified, replace the hatch latch assembly. Page 525 Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Description and Operation PGM-FI Main Relay The PGM-FI main relay contains two separate relays. One is energized whenever the ignition is on which supplies battery voltage to the ECM, power to the fuel injectors, and power for the fuel cut relay. The fuel cut relay is energized to supply power to the fuel pump for 2 seconds when the ignition is switched ON (II), and when the engine is running. Description and Operation Air Conditioning Switch: Description and Operation A/C Switch The A/C (air conditioning) switch signals the PCM/ECM whenever there is a demand for cooling. Specifications Page 10283 Wipers/Washers - Component Location Index Locations 133. Middle of Floor (CVT) Page 7617 Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Description and Operation SRS Operation SRS Operation The main circuit in the SRS unit senses and judges the force of impact and, if necessary, ignites the inflator charges. If battery voltage is too low or power is disconnected due to impact, the voltage regulator and the back-up power circuit respectively will keep voltage at a constant level. For the SRS to operate: 1. The impact sensor must activate and send electronic signals to the microprocessor. 2. The microprocessor must compute the signals and send them to the airbag inflators (and seat belt tensioners). 3. The inflators must ignite and deploy the airbags (and activate the tensioners). Self-diagnosis System A self-diagnosis circuit is built into the SRS unit; when the ignition switch is turned ON (II), the SRS indicator comes on and goes off after about 6 seconds if the SRS is operating normally. If the indicator does not come on, or does not go off after six seconds, or if it comes on while driving, it indicates an abnormality in the SRS. The SRS must be inspected and repaired as soon as possible. For better serviceability, the memory will store the cause of the malfunction, and the data link circuit passes on information from memory to the data link connector (DLC). This information can be read with the Honda PGM Tester connected to the DLC (16P). Page 6889 Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Description and Operation Definitions Air Bag An inflatable cloth cushion designed to deploy in certain frontal crashes. It supplements the protection offered by the seat belts by distributing the impact load more evenly over the vehicle occupant's head and torso. Asynchronous Performed in a nonperiodic fashion, (i.e., no defined time or interval). (B+) Battery voltage, (B+) The voltage available at the battery at the time of the indicated measurement. With the key "ON" and the engine not running, the system voltage will likely be between 12 and 12.5 volts. At idle the voltage may be 14 to 16 volts. The voltage could be as low as 10 volts during engine cranking. Bulb Check The SDM will cause the "AIR BAG" warning lamp to flash seven times and then go "OFF" whenever the ignition switch transitions to the ON position from any other ignition switch position and no malfunctions are detected. "CONTINUOUS MONITORING" Tests performed by the SDM on the SRS every 100 milliseconds while "Ignition 1" voltage is in the normal operating voltage range at the SDM. Data Link Connector (DLC) Formerly "DLC" a connector which allows communication with an external computer, such as a scan tool. Datum Line A base line parallel to the plane of the underbody or frame from which all vertical measurements originate. Deploy To inflate the air bag. Deployment Loops The circuits which supply current to the air bag assemblies to deploy the air bag. Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) Formerly "Code", a numerical designator used by the SDM to indicate specific SRS malfunctions. Driver Current Source An output of the SDM which applies current into the driver air bag assembly circuit during the "Initiator Assembly Resistance Test". Driver Air Bag Assembly An assembly located in the steering wheel hub consisting of an inflatable bag, an inflator and an initiator. EEPROM Electronically Erasable Programmable Read Only Memory. Memory which retains its contents when power is removed from the SDM. Ignition Cycle The voltage at the SDM "Ignition 1" inputs, with ignition switch "ON", is within the normal operating voltage range for at least ten seconds before turning ignition switch "OFF". Ignition 1 Page 567 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. Page 738 29. Left Front Side of Engine Compartment Page 4999 Connectors - "C" Page 2733 11. Use the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) with version 1.011.014 or later software to clear any set DTCs. 12. Reinstall the IPU lid and the mid-frame cover bolts. Torque the bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb-ft). 13. Reinstall the right trunk shelf support. Torque the bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb-ft). 14. Remove the battery module switch locking cover, and flip the switch to ON. Reinstall the locking cover. 15. Reinstall the battery module switch cover. 16. Reinstall the cargo floor mat. 17. Return the vehicle to your customer. Advise your customer that it is OK to drive the vehicle as is until the replacement parts arrive, but the vehicle will have reduced power (no IMA assist). 18. Order a battery module and, if needed, a BCM, an MCM, or both. REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Remove the battery module from the vehicle (see page 12-113 of the service manual). (In ISIS, use the keyword BAT MOD, and select Battery Module Removal/Installation from the list.) 2. Remove the lifting tool from the battery module. 3. Remove the mounting bolts for the MCM and the BCM (eight total). Unplug the electrical connectors (five for the MCM and three for the BCM), then remove the modules. 4. Install the MCM and the BCM in the new battery module. Use the original MCM and BCM if no replacement was needed; otherwise, use the appropriate replacement parts. Torque the mounting bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb-ft). 5. Install the lifting tool on the battery module. 6. With someone to help you, carefully lift the battery module into the vehicle, and set it down into position. Remove the lifting tool. 7. Plug in the connectors, and install the Y condenser harness. Then install the mounting bolts. Torque the bolts to 24 N.m (17 lb-ft). 8. Install the battery module air duct. Torque the bolt to 9.8 N~m (7.2 lb-ft). 9. Connect the high voltage cables to the junction board. Torque the bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb-ft). 10. Install the front and rear IPU braces and the mid-frame. Torque the bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb-ft). 11. Install the foam inserts. Page 4084 Oxygen Sensor: Description and Operation Secondary Oxygen Sensor Secondary Heated Oxygen Sensor (Secondary HO2S) The secondary HO2S detects the oxygen content in the exhaust gas downstream of the Three Way Catalytic Converter (TWC) and sends signals to the ECM which varies the duration of fuel injection accordingly. To stabilize its output, the sensor has an internal heater. The secondary HO2S is installed behind the TWC. Page 3233 Splices Components Ground - "G" Page 124 Compressor Clutch Relay: Description and Operation Air Conditioning (A/C) Compressor Clutch Relay When the ECM receives a demand for cooling from the A/C system, it delays the compressor from being energized, and enriches the mixture to assure smooth transition to the A/C mode. Page 6085 PARTS INFORMATION WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION NOTE: The IMA battery module warranty extension does not apply to any vehicle that has ever been declared a total loss, or any that has been issued a salvage, branded, or similar title under any state's law. Failed Part: P/N 1K000-PHM-000 Defect Code: 5KH00 Symptom Code: Q1600 Skill Level: Repair Technician REPAIR PROCEDURE NOTE: Do this procedure only if troubleshooting indicates a problem with the IMA battery module. 1. Turn the ignition switch to the LOCK (0) position. 2. Remove the cargo floor mat: ^ Refer to page 20-44 of the 2000-2006 Insight Service Manual, or ^ Online, enter keywords FLOOR MAT, then select Interior Trim Removal/Installation - Cargo Area from the list. Page 6527 Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box Page 1180 Door Switch: Diagnostic Aids Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Page 4687 Cavity Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity / terminal shown is # 6. Circuit Schematics Locations 93. Left Side of PCU (PCU Removed) Page 9184 Dash Lights Brightness Controller - Circuit Diagram Page 6664 Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box Page 698 11. Remove the mid-frame, then remove the front and rear IPU braces from the junction board. 12. Disconnect the high-voltage cables from the output terminals on the junction board, and wrap them with insulating tape. 13. Remove the battery module air duct mounting bolt, then push the duct forward. 14. Remove the mounting bolts from the battery module. Disconnect the connectors and the Y condenser terminal. NOTE: After disconnection, temporarily secure the Y condenser harness on the junction board. 15. Set the battery module lifting tool on the module, and install the six knurled bolts. Page 6275 51. Noise Condenser Page 1046 Wire Color Coding Distinct Of Circuit By Wire Base Color All wires have color-coded insulation. Wires belonging to a system's main harness will have a single color. Wires belonging to a system's sub-circuits will have a colored stripe. Striped wires use the codes found in the chart to show wire size and colors. Abbreviations are used to indicate wire color within a circuit diagram. Wire Color Abbreviations The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics: WHT................................... White YEL................................... Yellow BLK................................... Black BLU................................... Blue GRN................................... Green RED................................... Red ORN................................... Orange PNK................................... Pink BRN................................... Brown GRY................................... Gray PUR................................... Purple LT BLU................................... Light Blue LT GRN................................... Light Green The wire insulation has one color or one color with another color stripe. The second color is the stripe. How to Identify Connector Terminals How to Identify Connector Terminals Page 5068 Throttle Cable/Linkage: Service and Repair Throttle Cable Removal/Installation 1. Remove the throttle link cover (A). 2. Fully open the throttle valve, then remove the throttle cable wire (A) from the throttle link (B). 3. Remove the cable (C) from the cable bracket (D). 4. Remove the throttle cable wire (A) from the accelerator pedal (B). 5. Install in the reverse order of removal. 6. After installing, start the engine. Hold the engine at 3,000 rpm with no load (in neutral) until the radiator fan comes on, then let it idle. 7. Hold the cable, removing all slack from the cable. Page 522 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Page 2023 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Locations Radiator Cooling Fan Motor Relay: Locations Relay And Control Unit Location - Engine Compartment Locations 136. Right Side of Engine Compartment Page 3662 29. CKP Sensor Page 7345 Control Assembly: Description and Operation HVAC (with A/C) How the Climate Control Circuit Works The climate control unit controls the blower controls, air delivery, and A/C compressor controls either automatically or semi-automatically. The control unit receives battery voltage at all times through fuse 18. With the ignition switch in ACC (I) or ON (II), battery voltage is supplied through fuse 16. The control unit is grounded at G404. Fully-automatic Operation To put the automatic climate control in automatic mode, press the AUTO button and set the fan control dial to AUTO, then set the desired temperature by turning the temperature control dial. You will see AUTO in the system's display. The system automatically selects the proper mix of cooled and/or heated air that will, as soon as engine coolant temperature allows, raise or lower the interior temperature from its current level to the set temperature. The system also adjusts the fan speed and changes direction of air delivery as needed to maintain the set temperature. When you set the temperature to its lower limit (60 °F/18 °C) or its upper limit (90 °F/32 °C), the system runs at full cooling or heating only. It does not regulate the interior temperature. When the temperature is set between the lower and upper limits, the system regulates the interior temperature to the set value. Semi-automatic Operation You can manually select various functions of the climate control system when it is in AUTO. All other features remain automatically controlled. Making a manual selection causes the word AUTO to go off. However, when you select A/C OFF, the system cannot regulate the inside temperature if you set the dial lower than the temperature outside. Blower Controls The blower speed is automatically controlled in the automatic mode. You can manually select it by repeatedly pressing the blower speed button. The more times you press it, the faster the fan goes until it reaches maximum speed. Battery voltage is applied through fuse 12 to the blower motor relay contacts at all times. With the ignition switch in ACC (I) or ON (II), the blower motor relay in the under-hood fuse/relay box is energized which feeds battery voltage to the blower motor. The blower power transistor controls the blower motor in all speeds except HIGH. The blower power transistor is controlled by the climate control unit. When the control unit requests HIGH blower speed, it grounds the blower motor HIGH relay coil, energizing the relay, which connects the blower motor directly to ground, making the blower run at high speed. In cold weather, the blower will not come on automatically until the heater starts to develop warm air. Air Delivery The climate control unit controls the blower motor and supplies a 5 V DC reference voltage to the air mixture control motor. The air mix and mode control motors each receive inputs from the control unit. The air mix motor regulates the mixture of cold and hot air by varying the position of the heater-evaporator door. The mode control motor controls the direction and volume of outlet air. Use the MODE button to select which vents the air flows from. Some air will flow from the dashboard corner vents in all modes. Each time you press the MODE button, the display shows the mode selected. Press the button four times to see all the modes. Both the air mix control motor and mode control motor are grounded by the control unit. The recirculation control motor receives battery voltage through fuse 16 when the ignition switch is in ACC (I) or ON (II). It regulates the position of the fresh/recirc door, and is controlled by two position inputs from the control unit ("Recirc" and "Fresh"). A/C Compressor Controls Voltage is provided at all times to the A/C compressor clutch relay contacts through fuse 19. With the ignition switch in ACC (I) or ON (II), voltage is supplied to the relay coil through fuse 16. With the ignition switch in ACC (I) or ON (II), the climate control unit grounds the A/C ON input of the ECM through the A/C pressure switch. The ECM then grounds the A/C compressor clutch relay coil. This energizes the coil, which closes the relay contacts and provides voltage through fuse 19 to the compressor clutch. The clutch then engages and begins turning the compressor. Whenever the climate control system is on, the A/C is on. Evaporator Temperature Sensor Page 9383 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 3562 2. Remove the sealing nut from the fuel rail. Attach the fuel pressure adapter nut, 12 mm (A) and the fuel pressure gauge (B). Remove the vacuum hose (C) from the fuel pulsation damper (D), and pinch off the hose with a clamp (E). 3. Start the engine and let it idle. - If the engine starts, go to step 5. - If the engine does not start, go to step 4. 4. See if the fuel pump is running: listen to the fuel fill port with the fuel fill cap removed. The fuel pump should run for 2 seconds when the ignition switch is first turned on. If the pump runs, go to step 5. - If the fuel pump does not run, perform the fuel pump circuit troubleshooting. 5. Read the pressure gauge. The pressure should be 270 - 320 kPa (2.8 - 3.3 kgf/sq.cm, 40 - 47 psi) - If the pressure is OK, the test is complete. - If the pressure is out of specification, replace the fuel pressure regulator and the fuel filter, and recheck the fuel pressure. 6. Remove the pressure gauge, and reinstall the sealing nut with a new washer. Tighten the sealing nut to 22 N.m (2.2 kgf.m, 16 lbf.ft). NOTE: Disassemble and clean the fuel pressure gauge attachment thoroughly after use. Page 7222 Cabin Air Filter: Service and Repair Climate Control Dust and Pollen Filter Replacement The dust and pollen filter should be replaced every 15,000 miles (24,000 km) or 12 months whichever comes first. Replace the filter more often if the air flow is less than usual. 1. Remove the glove box and the center lower cover. 2. Cut the plastic cross brace in the glove box opening with diagonal cutters in the area shown, and discard it. 3. Remove the bolts and the glove box frame. 4. Remove the filter lid (A) from the evaporator, then remove the dust and pollen filter (B) by pulling it. Page 6281 Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box Part 1 Specifications Fuel Pressure: Specifications With the fuel pressure regulator vacuum hose disconnected and clamped ................................................ 270 - 320 kPa (2.8 - 3.3 kgf/sq.cm, 40 - 47 psi) With the engine running, unpinch and reconnect the vacuum hose ............................................................ 210 - 260 kPa (2.1 - 2.6 kgf/sq.cm, 30 - 37 psi) Locations Gauges - Component Location Index Compressor Clutch Check Compressor Clutch: Testing and Inspection Compressor Clutch Check Compressor Clutch Check 1. Check the plated parts of the armature plate for color changes, peeling or other damage. If there is damage, replace the clutch set. 2. Check the rotor pulley bearing play and drag by rotating the rotor pulley by hand. Replace the clutch set with a new one if it is noisy or has excessive play/drag. 3. Measure the clearance between the rotor pulley (A) and the armature plate (B) all the way around. If the clearance is not within specified limits, remove the armature plate and add or remove shims as needed to increase or decrease clearance. Clearance: 0.5 ± 0.15 mm (0.020 ± 0.006 in.) NOTE: The shims are available in four thicknesses: 0.1 mm, 0.2 mm, 0.4 mm, and 0.5 mm. 4. Release the field coil connector (A) from the holder, then disconnect it. Check the thermal protector (B) for continuity. If there is no continuity, replace the thermal protector. NOTE: The thermal protector will have no continuity above 252 to 262 °F (122 to 128 °C). When the temperature drops below 241 to 219 °F (116 to 104 °C), the thermal protector will have continuity. Page 3083 DTC U0100 thru U1288 Disclaimer Page 10216 Power Window Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relay Test Normally-open type A: 1. Turn the battery module switch OFF, and measure the voltage. 2. Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is disconnected. A/C compressor clutch relay - Air fuel ratio sensor relay - Condenser fan relay - Daytime running lights relay (Canada) - Headlight relay 1 - Headlight relay 2 - High speed battery module fan control relay - High speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - High voltage conductor control relay - Horn relay - Ignition hold relay - Low speed battery module fan control relay - Low speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - Power window relay - Radiator fan relay - Rear window defogger relay - Reverse relay - Starter cut relay Page 5500 Valve Body: Diagrams 182. CVT Pulley Pressure Control Valve Assembly 183. CVT Speed Change Control Valve Assembly 184. CVT Start Clutch Pressure Control Valve Assembly Page 8023 All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416 etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector or by a capital letter (A, B, C etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Connector Views that shows the connector terminals wire colors connector cavity numbers and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints shown on diagram [8] . Except for the DLC (data link connector) disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554 for example means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Locations Heated Glass Element Switch: Locations Rear Window Defogger Diagram Information and Instructions Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System Terminal Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown below is #6. Specifications Camshaft Gear/Sprocket: Specifications Crankshaft Gear/Sprocket Align A & B (A) TDC Mark (B) Pulser Plate, (A) Install the cam chain with the colored piece (A) align with punch mark (B) on the crankshaft sprocket Page 6551 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Locations 44. Under Left Side of Dash (Honda Accessory) Page 434 70. Right Side of Floor 95. Left Side of PCU (PCU Removed) Locations Compressor Clutch Relay: Locations Climate Control - Component Location Index Master Switch Test/Replacement Power Window Switch: Testing and Inspection Master Switch Test/Replacement Master Switch Test/Replacement 1. Remove the instrument panel. 2. Disconnect the 14P connector (A) from the power window master switch (B). 3. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table. Driver's Switch: The driver's switch is combined with the control unit, so you cannot isolate the switch to test it. Instead, run the master switch input test procedures. If the tests are normal, the driver's switch must be faulty. 4. If the continuity is not as specified, remove the three screws and replace the switch. Page 7241 Compressor Clutch: Testing and Inspection Compressor Clutch Circuit Compressor Clutch Circuit Troubleshooting 1. Check the No. 19 (20 A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box and the No. 16 (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box. Are the fuses OK? YES - Go to step 2. NO - Replace the fuse(s), and recheck. 2. Check the engine coolant temperature, the throttle position sensor, and the idle speed (use the Honda PGM Tester PGM-FI data list if possible). Is the coolant temperature above normal, the throttle position sensor reading too high, or the idle speed to low? YES - Troubleshoot and repair the cause of the high engine coolant temperature, high throttle position sensor reading, or low idle speed. NO - Go to step 3. 3. Remove the compressor clutch relay from the under-hood fuse/relay box, and test it. Is the relay OK? YES - Go to step 4. NO - Replace the compressor clutch relay. 4. Measure the voltage between the No.1 terminal of the compressor clutch relay 4P socket and body ground. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 5. NO - Replace the under-hood fuse/relay box. 5. Connect the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals of the compressor clutch relay 4P socket with a jumper wire. Does the compressor clutch click ? YES - Go to step 6. NO - Go to step 15. Page 5501 Valve Body: Service and Repair Lower Valve Body Assembly Replacement 1. Raise the front of the vehicle, and make sure it is securely supported. 2. Apply the parking brake, and block the rear wheels securely. 3. Remove the air cleaner housing. 4. Disconnect the solenoid harness connector (8P). 5. Remove the engine under cover on the transmission housing. 6. Remove the drain plug (A), and drain the automatic transmission fluid (ATF). Reinstall the drain plug with a new sealing washer (B). 7. Remove the ATF cooler inlet hose (A) from the ATF cooler inlet line (B). Turn the end of the ATF cooler inlet hose up to prevent ATF from flowing out, and plug the ATF cooler hose and line. 8. Remove the bolt (A) securing the ATF cooler inlet line (B) on the transmission. 9. Remove the ATF pan (C). Diagram Information and Instructions Control Module HVAC: Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System Terminal Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown below is #6. Service and Repair Brake Bleeding: Service and Repair Brake System Bleeding NOTE: ^ Do not reuse the drained fluid. ^ Always use Honda DOT 3 Brake Fluid. Using a non-Honda brake fluid can cause corrosion and decrease the life of the system. ^ Make sure no dirt or other foreign matter is allowed to contaminate the brake fluid. ^ Do not spill brake fluid on the vehicle, it may damage the paint; if brake fluid does contact the paint, wash it off immediately with water. ^ The reservoir on the master cylinder must be at the MAX (upper) level mark at the start of the bleeding procedure and checked after bleeding each brake caliper or wheel cylinder. Add fluid as required. 1. Make sure the brake fluid level in the reservoir is at the MAX (upper) level line (A). 2. Have someone slowly pump the brake pedal several times, then apply steady pressure. 3. Starting at the left-front, loosen the brake bleed screw to allow air to escape from the system. Then tighten the bleed screw securely. 4. Repeat the procedure for each wheel in the sequence shown until air bubbles no longer appear in the fluid. Exploded Views Page 3877 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 7789 Seat Belt Reminder Lamp: Testing and Inspection Lights-on, Key-in, Seat Belt Reminder, Key Light Timer, Indicator/Reminder Systems 1. Remove the gauge assembly. 2. Disconnect the gauge assembly 30P connector A and 22P connector B. 3. Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are making good contact. - If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system. - If the terminals are OK, go to step 4. 4. With the connectors still disconnected, make these input tests at the connector. Capacity Specifications Coolant: Capacity Specifications Engine Coolant Change Capacity ............................................................................................................................................................. 2.3 L (2.4 US qt) Overhaul Capacity M/T ........................................................................................................................ .................................................... 4.0 L (4.2 US qt.) Overhaul Capacity CVT ....................................................................................................................... ..................................................... 3.9 L (4.1 US qt.) Reservoir Capacity .............................................................................................................................. ...................................................... 0.4 L (0.4 US qt) Page 1382 Camshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair Replacement 1. Disconnect connectors from the camshaft position (CMP) sensor A (top dead center (TDC) sensor 1) and CMP sensor B (TDC sensor 2) Remove the CMP sensor A (TDC sensor 1) sensor (A) and the CMP sensor B (TDC sensor 2) sensor (B). 2. Install the CMP sensor A (TDC sensor 1) sensor and the CMP sensor B (TDC sensor 2) using new O-rings (C). Page 8016 Connectors - "C" Locations Shift Interlock Solenoid: Locations 132. Valve Body (Remove) (CVT) 133. Middle of Floor (CVT) Page 3254 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. Page 4451 Variable Valve Timing Pressure Switch: Locations 6. Front of Engine Locations SRS Components Page 374 DTC P0A94 thru P0157 Locations 112. Left Side of Cargo Area Page 7655 Air Bag Control Module: Service and Repair SRS Unit Replacement Removal 1. Disconnect the battery negative cable, and wait at least 3 minutes before beginning work. 2. Disconnect the airbag connectors and seat belt tensioner connectors. 3. Remove the front console. 4. Remove the cover (A), then disconnect the floor wire harness 18P (B) and 8P (C) connectors from the SRS unit (D). 5. Remove the three Torx bolts (A) from the SRS unit (B), then pull out the SRS unit. Installation 1. Install the new SRS unit (A) with Torx bolts (B), then connect the floor wire harness 18P (C) and 8P (D) connectors to the SRS unit; push them into position until they click. NOTE: When tightening the Torx bolts to the specified torque after replacement, be careful to turn them in so that their heads rest squarely on the brackets. 2. Reinstall the front console. 3. Reconnect the airbag connectors and seat belt tensioner connectors. 4. Reconnect the battery negative cable. Page 4505 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. Page 1786 A battery voltage (B+) circuit which is only powered with the ignition switch in the ON, or START positions. Initiator The electrical component inside the air bag assembly which, when sufficient current flows, sets off the chemical reaction that inflates the air bag. "Initiator Assembly Resistance Test" Tests performed once each ignition cycle when no malfunctions are detected during "Turn-ON" or "Continuous Monitoring." This test checks for the correct SDM configuration for the vehicle, shorts to "Ignition 1 in the deployment loops, high resistance or opens in the "Driver Side High", "Driver Side Low", "Passenger Side High" and "Passenger Side Low" circuits and measures the resistance of the inflator assembly consisting of: 1. Initiators. 2. SRS coil assembly (driver side only). 3. Connectors and associated wiring. Normal Operating Voltage Range The voltage measured between the SDM "Ignition 1" terminals and "Ground" terminals is between 9 and 16 volts. Passenger Current Source An output of the SDM which applies current into the passenger air bag assembly circuit during the "Initiator Assembly Resistance Test". Passenger Air Bag Assembly An assembly located in the right side of the instrument panel consisting of an inflatable bag, an inflator and an initiator. Scan Tool An external computer used to read diagnostic information from on-board computers via the data link connector. SDM Sensing and Diagnostic Module which provides reserve energy to the deployment loops, deploys the air bags when required and performs diagnostic monitoring of all SRS components. Serial Data Information representing the status of the SRS. SRS Supplemental Restraint System. SRS Coil Assembly An assembly of two current-carrying coils in the driver deployment loop that allows the rotation of the steering wheel while maintaining the continuous contact of the driver deployment loop to the driver air bag assembly. SRS Wiring Harness The wires and connectors that electrically connect the components in the SRS. "Turn-ON" Test which the SDM performs on the SRS once during each ignition cycle immediately after "Ignition 1" voltage is applied to the SDM and before "Continuous Monitoring". Page 3766 DTC P0979 thru P1193 Page 2341 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Idle Control System Idle Speed: Description and Operation Idle Control System Idle Control System The idle speed of the engine is controlled by the IAC (idle air control) valve: - After the engine starts, the IAC valve opens for a certain time. The amount of air is increased to raise the idle speed. - When the engine coolant temperature is low, the IAC valve is opened to obtain the proper fast idle speed. The amount of bypassed air is controlled in relation to engine coolant temperature to maintain the proper idle speed. Page 2991 12. Remove the mounting bolts for the battery condition monitor (BCM) module and the motor control module (MCM). Disconnect the electrical connectors, then remove the two modules. 13. Install the new BCM and the new MCM. Make sure all electrical connectors are secure. 14. Reinstall the IPU lid. 15. Remove the locking cover from the battery module switch, install the 5 mm bolt, turn the switch on, and reinstall the locking cover. 16. Reinstall the remaining parts in the reverse order of removal. 17. Reconnect the negative cable to the 12-volt battery in the engine compartment. 18. Remove the EPS fuse from the under-hood fusel relay box. 19. With the transmission in neutral and the clutch released, run the engine at 3,500 rpm until the battery level shows at least 50 percent charge. 20. Turn off the engine, then reinstall the EPS fuse. 21. Enter the radio station presets, and set the clock. Disclaimer Page 450 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. Locations Blower Motor Relay: Locations Heating - Component Location Index Page 6648 175. Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box Page 2321 Wire Color Abbreviations Application and ID Turn Signal Flasher: Application and ID PLEASE NOTE: The flasher function for this vehicle is provided by the Turn Signal/Hazard Relay. Page 10217 - Taillight relay Page 6302 Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box Page 6217 40. Upper Left Kick Panel Area Page 220 - Taillight relay Page 6113 Failed Part: P/N 1K000-PHM-000 Defect Code: 03214 Symptom Code: 03205 Skill Level: Repair Technician INSPECTION PROCEDURE 1. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 2. Remove the cargo floor mat (see page 20-44 of the 2000-04 Insight Service Manual). (In ISIS, use the keyword FLOOR MAT, and select Interior Trim Removal/Installation - Cargo Area from the list.) 3. Remove the battery module switch cover (two bolts), then remove the locking cover from the switch. 4. Flip the battery module switch to OFF. Reinstall the locking cover. 5. Wait at least 5 minutes to let the capacitors in the system discharge. Page 5946 11. Center-punch a completion mark above the tenth character of the engine compartment VIN. Disclaimer Page 9116 Terminals - "T" Shielding Switches Fuses Page 2657 Disclaimer Testing and Inspection Positive Crankcase Ventilation Valve: Testing and Inspection PCV Valve Inspection and Test 1. Check the PCV valve (A), hoses (B) and connections for leaks or restrictions. 2. At idle, make sure there is a clicking sound from the PCV valve when the hose between the PCV valve and intake manifold is lightly pinched (A) with your fingers or pliers. If there is no clicking sound, check the PCV valve grommet for cracks or damage. If the grommet is OK, replace the PCV valve and recheck. Page 8373 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 10215 40. Upper Left Kick Panel Area Page 6248 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 4218 DTC P1861 thru P2238 Page 6183 50. Neutral Position Switch (M/T) Page 3344 In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locater) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: - Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. Page 4422 Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor: Description and Operation Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor The MAP sensor converts manifold absolute pressure into electrical signals to the ECM. Page 1826 First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 3908 Engine Control Module: Testing and Inspection How to Troubleshoot Circuits At the ECM/PCM How To Troubleshoot Circuits At The ECM Special Tools Required - Digital Multimeter KS-AHM-32-003 (1) or a commercially available digital multimeter - Backprobe Set 07SAZ-001000A (2) 1. Connect the backprobe adapters (A) to the stacking patch cords (B), and connect the cords to a multimeter (C). 2. Using the wire insulation as a guide for the contoured tip of the backprobe adapter, gently slide the tip into the connector from the wire side until it touches the end of the wire terminal. 3. If you cannot get to the wire side of the connector or the wire side is sealed (A), disconnect the connector and touch the tester probe (B) to terminals (C) from the terminal side. Do not force the probe into the connector. NOTE: Do not puncture the insulation on a wire. Punctures can cause poor or intermittent electrical connections. Page 2077 Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow from power at the top of the diagram to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another for example is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors Page 1907 23. Remove the blown No.2 (15 A) fuse in the underdash fuse/relay box. 24. Remove the PGM-FI main relay (FUEL PUMP). 25. Remove the fuel tank. 26. Check for continuity between fuel pump 5P connector terminal No.5 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Repair short in the wire between the fuel pump and the PGM-FI main relay (FUEL PUMP). Also replace the No.2 (15 A) fuse. NO - Go to step 27. 27. Reinstall the PGM-FI main relay (FUEL PUMP). 28. Check for continuity between fuel pump 5P connector terminal No.5 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Replace the PGM-FI main relay (FUEL PUMP). Also replace the No.2 (15 A) fuse. NO - Check the fuel pump, and replace it if necessary. Also replace the No.2 (15 A) fuse. 29. Check for continuity between body ground and PGM-FI main relay diode 2P connector terminal No.2. Is there continuity? YES - Go to step 30. Page 2988 1. Inspect the cooling air intake behind the passenger seat and the cooling exhaust holes in the IMA case above the spare tire. If either is obstructed, remove the obstruction, and clear the code. Advise the customer that blocking the vents can cause this problem. 2. Remove the IMA cover (steps 3-10 of REPAIR PROCEDURE). Refer to page 12-4 of the 2000 Insight Service Manual. 3. Make sure the cooling fan on the battery pack is operating normally. Use the PGM Tester to run the fan in high and low speed modes. ^ If the fan is OK, check the part number on the battery condition monitor module. If the part number is not 1K100-PHM-030, then the battery condition monitor module and the motor control module need to be replaced. Go to REPAIR PROCEDURE. ^ If the fan is not OK, repair as needed. REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Write down the radio station presets. 2. Turn the ignition switch off, then disconnect the negative cable from the 12-volt battery in the engine compartment. 3. Remove the cargo area carpet and the cargo box. (Refer to page 20-43 of the Insight Service Manual). Page 8832 Cigarette Lighter: Electrical Diagrams Diagram 155 Diagrams: Other diagrams referred to by number (See Diagram ##-#, etc.) within these diagrams can be found at Diagrams by Number. See: Diagrams/Electrical Diagrams/Diagrams By Number Locations: Location photographs (references to PHOTOS) referred to within these diagrams can be found at Locations by Photo Number. See: Locations/Component Locations/Locations By Photo Number Connector Views: Connector terminal views (references to VIEWS) referred to within these diagrams can be found at Connector Views by View Number. See: Diagrams/Connector Views/Connector Views By View Number Page 8736 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: - Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest OHMS" range. Page 8424 Trim Panel: Service and Repair Trim Removal/Installation - Hatch Area Trim Removal/Installation - Hatch Area Special Tools Required KTC trim tool set SOJATP2014 * *Available through the American Honda Tool and Equipment Program NOTE: - Put on gloves to protect your hands. - Use the appropriate tool from the KTC trim tool set to avoid damage when prying components. - Take care not to bend or scratch the trim and panels. 1. Remove the trim as shown. 2. Install the trim in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - Check for damaged or stress-whitened clips, and replace them with new ones. - If the old trim is to be reinstalled, scrape off the double-sided adhesive tape, then clean the trim and seal surfaces with alcohol. Attach the new double-sided adhesive tape to the seal, and install the seals to both sides of the trim. - Before reinstalling the trim, clean the body bonding surface with alcohol. - Locate the painted alignment mark on the rear window trim. Align the painted mark with the alignment tab in the center of the hatch, and install the trim all the way around facing in the direction shown. - Make sure the upper rear window defogger connectors are plugged in properly. - Push the clips into place securely. Page 4834 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 565 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Page 7478 Add the recommended refrigerant oil in the amount listed if you replace any of the following parts. - To avoid contamination, do not return the oil to the container once dispensed, and never mix it with other refrigerant oils. - Immediately after using the oil, reinstall the cap on the container, and seal it to avoid moisture absorption. - Do not spill the refrigerant oil on the vehicle; it may damage the paint; if it gets on the paint, wash it off immediately. Page 9558 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: - Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest OHMS" range. Page 9002 - Refer to the scrapping procedures for disposal of the damaged airbag. Page 531 Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Testing and Inspection Power Relay Test Power Relay Test Normally-open type A: 1. Turn the battery module switch OFF, and measure the voltage. 2. Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is disconnected. A/C compressor clutch relay - Air fuel ratio sensor relay - Condenser fan relay - Daytime running lights relay (Canada) - Headlight relay 1 - Headlight relay 2 - High speed battery module fan control relay - High speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - High voltage conductor control relay - Horn relay - Ignition hold relay - Low speed battery module fan control relay - Low speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - Power window relay - Radiator fan relay - Rear window defogger relay - Reverse relay - Starter cut relay - Taillight relay Page 2372 Idle Speed: Adjustments Idle Speed Adjustment NOTE: - Leave the idle air control (IAC) valve connected. - Before checking the idle speed, check these items: The malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) has not been reported on. - Ignition timing - Spark plugs - Air cleaner - PCV system - Pull the parking brake lever up. Start the engine, and make sure the headlights are off. 1. Disconnect the evaporative emission (EVAP) canister purge valve 2P connector. 2. Connect a tachometer (A) to the test tachometer connector (B), or connect the Honda PGM Tester (C) or an OBD II scan tool to the data link connector (DLC) (D) located under the driver's side of the dashboard. 3. Start the engine. Hold the engine at 3,000 rpm with no load (in Park or neutral) until the radiator fan comes on, then let it idle. 4. Check the idle speed with no-load conditions: headlights, blower fan, radiator fan, and air conditioner off. Page 6246 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. Page 10136 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Page 9203 In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locater) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: - Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. Page 2423 Coolant: Service and Repair Replacement 1. Start the engine. Set the heater temperature control dial to maximum heat, then turn off the engine. Make sure the engine and radiator are cool to the touch. 2. Remove the radiator cap. 3. Remove the splash shields. 4. Loosen the drain plug (A), and drain the coolant. 5. Remove the drain bolt (A) from the rear side of the cylinder block. 6. After the coolant has drained, apply liquid gasket to the drain bolt threads, then reinstall the bolt with a new washer and tighten it securely. 7. Tighten the radiator drain plug securely. 8. Remove, drain and reinstall the coolant reservoir. Fill the tank to the MAX mark with Honda All Season Antifreeze/Coolant Type 2 (P/N OL 999-9001). 9. Loosen the air bleed bolt (A) in the water outlet, then pour Honda All Season Antifreeze/Coolant Type 2 into the radiator to the bottom of the filler neck. Do not let coolant spill on any electrical parts or the paint. If any coolant spills, rinse it off immediately. NOTE: Service and Repair High Pressure Safety Valve HVAC: Service and Repair Compressor Relief Valve Replacement 1. Recover the refrigerant with a recovery/recycling/charging station. 2. Remove the relief valve (A) and the O-ring (B). Plug the opening to keep foreign matter from entering the system and the compressor oil from running out. 3. Clean the mating surfaces. 4. Replace the O-ring with a new one at the relief valve, and apply a thin coat of refrigerant oil before installing it. 5. Remove the plug, and install and tighten the relief valve. 6. Charge the system. Page 9788 First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Locations Cylinder Identification Sensor: Locations Part 1 Of 2 Page 1603 2. Remove the sealing nut from the fuel rail. Attach the fuel pressure adapter nut, 12 mm (A) and the fuel pressure gauge (B). Remove the vacuum hose (C) from the fuel pulsation damper (D), and pinch off the hose with a clamp (E). 3. Start the engine and let it idle. - If the engine starts, go to step 5. - If the engine does not start, go to step 4. 4. See if the fuel pump is running: listen to the fuel fill port with the fuel fill cap removed. The fuel pump should run for 2 seconds when the ignition switch is first turned on. If the pump runs, go to step 5. - If the fuel pump does not run, perform the fuel pump circuit troubleshooting. 5. Read the pressure gauge. The pressure should be 270 - 320 kPa (2.8 - 3.3 kgf/sq.cm, 40 - 47 psi) - If the pressure is OK, the test is complete. - If the pressure is out of specification, replace the fuel pressure regulator and the fuel filter, and recheck the fuel pressure. 6. Remove the pressure gauge, and reinstall the sealing nut with a new washer. Tighten the sealing nut to 22 N.m (2.2 kgf.m, 16 lbf.ft). NOTE: Disassemble and clean the fuel pressure gauge attachment thoroughly after use. Page 6143 3. Remove the battery module switch cover (two bolts), then remove the locking cover from the switch. 4. Flip the battery module switch to OFF, then reinstall the locking cover. 5. Wait at least 5 minutes for the capacitors in the system to discharge. 6. Remove the rear clips from the middle bulkhead carpet. Page 6970 - Align the spring upper end with the stepped part of the upper spring cushion, and align the spring lower end with the stepped part of the spring seat on the rear axle beam. - When installing the flange bolts connecting the rear axle beam to the bottom of the dampers and to the frame, first lightly tighten the bolts, raise the suspension with jacks to load the vehicle weight, then fully tighten the bolts to the specified torque. - When installing the rear brake assembly, make sure the O-ring is properly positioned in the wheel sensor hole, on the outside of the axle beam, between the axle beam and the backing plate. Page 7837 Connectors - "C" Page 8661 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 2153 6. If you feel too much or too little drag, loosen the locknut (A), and turn the adjusting screw (B) until the drag on the feeler gauge is correct. 7. Tighten the locknut and recheck the clearance. Repeat the adjustment, if necessary. 8. Rotate the crankshaft 240° clockwise (camshaft sprocket turn 120°). The second TDC mark (A) should be aligned with the cylinder head surface. 9. Check and, if necessary, adjust the valve clearance on No. 3 cylinder. 10. Rotate the crankshaft 240° clockwise (camshaft sprocket turn 120°). The third TDC mark should be aligned with the cylinder head surface. 11. Check and, if necessary, adjust the valve clearance on No. 2 cylinder. 12. Install the cylinder head cover. Testing and Inspection Valve Guide: Testing and Inspection For further information regarding this component and the system it is a part of, please refer to Cylinder Head Assembly; Testing and Inspection. Page 3848 2. Remove the carpet hold-down clips on the door sill. 3. Remove the carpet hold-down clip in the passenger's footwell under the glove box. Pull back the carpet. 4. Remove the ECM cover mounting nuts. 5. Pivot the lower edge of the ECM cover off the mounting studs. Lift the upper edge of the cover off the mounting studs, then pull the cover down and back so it clears the evaporator drain tube. 6. Remove the two bolts mounting the ECM to the cover. Disconnect the ECM connectors, and remove the ECM. 7. Install the new ECM and the cover in the reverse order of removal. 8. Reinstall the carpet and the door sill trim. 9. Connect the PGM Tester to the data link connector (DLC). 10. Use the PGM Tester to program the customer's immobilizer key codes into the ECM. Verify that all the keys will start the engine. NOTE: Make sure the PGM Tester software is SN32OP or later. 11. Do the idle learn procedure: ^ Warm the engine to normal operating temperature. ^ Let the engine idle for 10 minutes. If the radiator fan comes on, do not include its running time in the 10 minutes. 12. Center-punch a completion mark above the eighth character of the engine compartment VIN. 13. For California residents: Fill out and give to your customer a Vehicle Emission Recall - Proof of Correction certificate. Advise them to keep this certificate as proof that the emissions recall was completed. Your customer will need to submit this certificate to the DMV if the DMV requests it. A supply of these salmon-colored certificates was sent to your service manager. If you need more, use reorder number Y0657. Page 8984 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. Testing and Inspection Mini ISO Relay: Testing and Inspection Normally-Open Type A Fuel Cut/PGM-FI Main - Relay 1. Turn the battery module switch OFF, and measure the voltage. 2. Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No.3 and No.4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals when power is disconnected. Normally-Open Type B EPS Motor Relay 1. Turn the battery module switch OFF, and measure the voltage. 2. Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No.1 and No.3 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No.2 and No.4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No.1 and No.3 terminals when power is disconnected. Locations Page 6162 Clutch Switch: Description and Operation Clutch pedal position Switch (M/T model) The clutch pedal position switch signals the ECM when the clutch pedal is pressed. Page 3073 DTC P0401 thru P0562 Page 6545 Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box Page 9938 Terminals - "T" Shielding Switches Fuses Description and Operation Air Conditioning Switch: Description and Operation A/C Switch The A/C (air conditioning) switch signals the PCM/ECM whenever there is a demand for cooling. Page 9589 Splices Components Ground - "G" Page 2740 4. Remove the switch cover from the battery module, then remove the locking cover from the battery module switch. 5. Turn off the battery module switch. Reinstall the locking cover on the switch, and remove the 5 mm bolt on the side of the switch. 6. Wait at least 5 minutes to allow the capacitors to discharge. 7. Remove the three clips from the middle bulkhead carpet. 8. Remove the under-cover (two bolts, two clips, and three screw clips). Page 4658 122. Fuel Consumption Display Select Switch Page 10026 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. Page 4334 116. PGM-FI Main Relay And A/T Reverse Relay (CVT) A/F Sensor Replacement Oxygen Sensor: Service and Repair A/F Sensor Replacement A/F Sensor Replacement 1. Disconnect the A/F sensor 4P or 8P connector (A), and remove the A/F sensor (B). 2. Install the A/F sensor in the reverse order of removal. Page 9338 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. Page 7902 Locations 81. Middle Rear of Roof Page 7295 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. Page 4768 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Locations Wiper Relay: Locations Relay And Control Unit Location - Engine Compartment Page 7933 49. Under Left Side of Dash Page 4023 Cavity Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity / terminal shown is # 6. Circuit Schematics Page 331 DTC P0563 thru P0748 Rear Window Wiper Motor - Radio Static Wiper Motor: All Technical Service Bulletins Rear Window Wiper Motor - Radio Static 00-043 April 5, 2000 Applies To: 2000 Insight - From VIN JHMZE1...YT000001 thru JHMZE1...YT000569 Product Update: Insight Rear Window Wiper Motor BACKGROUND Because the rear window wiper motor is not adequately grounded, static is developed on AM radio stations when the wiper is operating. CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION All owners of affected vehicles will be mailed a notification of this product update. The text of the customer notification is at the end of this service bulletin. CORRECTIVE ACTION Add a grounding sub-harness to the rear window wiper motor. PARTS INFORMATION Sub-harness Kit: P/N 06320-S3Y-000, H/C 6441109 WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION Operation Number: 741104 Flat Rate Time: 0.5 hour Failed Part: P/N 76710-S3Y-A01 H/C 6350052 Defect Code: 546 Contention Code: K86 Template ID: 00-043A Skill Level: Repair Technician REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Open the rear hatch. Remove the two trim panel clips next to the striker. 2. Use a flat-tip screwdriver wrapped with tape or a cloth to remove the rear hatch trim panel. 3. Unclip the connector retaining clip from the wiper motor mounting bracket. Recall 04V086000: Headlamp Switch/Connector Defect Battery Module: All Technical Service Bulletins Hybrid System - IMA Battery Exchange Program Information 10-061 March 25, 2011 Applies To: 2000 and Later Hybrid Vehicles - ALL IMA Battery Exchange Program (Supersedes 10-061, dated October 8, 2010, to revise the information marked by the asterisks.) *REVISION SUMMARY Under DIAGNOSIS, Service Technician, a reference was added to Service Bulletin 10-083, IMA Battery Software and Hardware Updates.* COVERAGE This bulletin applies to all Honda IMA batteries, both in-warranty and out-of-warranty. COMPONENT REPLACEMENT POLICY Only remanufactured IMA battery modules are available for repair; new units are not available. Any internal failure requiring IMA battery module disassembly qualifies for this program. Follow the warranty information and procedures given in this service bulletin. NOTE: ^ On out-of-warranty repairs, make sure to tell the customer that new units are not available and that a remanufactured IMA battery module is used. ^ While Honda remanufactured batteries may reuse some components, the battery cells are replaced with new parts. WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION The normal warranty applies. Operation Number: 1181H5 Flat Rate Time: From the Flat Rate Manual Failed Part: Use the part number from the parts catalogue (example: 1D010-RMX-X01). Defect Code: 03214 Symptom Code: 01201 Part used for repair: Use the RM part number located at the bottom of the battery order form, or the order status inquiry screen (example: 1D100-RMX-X05RM). DIAGNOSIS Service Advisor: Interview the customer to get as much information as possible, such as where and when the symptom occurs. This information is vital to the diagnosis, and it also helps determine whether there is a problem with the IMA system. Write the complaint on the repair order. Service Technician: 1. Confirm the problem using the customer information written on the repair order or have the customer demonstrate the problem, then write down the results on the repair order. Page 6594 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. Page 4429 Oxygen Sensor: Diagrams 103. Secondary HO2S 128. Primary HO2S ('00 And Early Production '01) Page 4708 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 3741 18. Remove the EPS fuse from the under-hood fusel relay box. 19. With the transmission in neutral and the clutch released, run the engine at 3,500 rpm until the battery level indicator shows at least 50 percent charge. 20. Turn off the engine, then install the EPS fuse. 21. Enter the radio station presets, and set the clock. 22. Center-punch a completion mark above the sixth character of the engine compartment VIN. A/T - Vehicle Speed Sensor Installation Precautions Transmission Speed Sensor: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Vehicle Speed Sensor Installation Precautions Install VSS Properly to Avoid Reman A/T Damage We can't emphasize enough how important it is to follow, to the letter, the installation instructions that come with a reman A/T. These instructions help ensure that you avoid damaging the A/T and score a successful repair. This is particularly true when it comes to installing the vehicle speed sensor (VSS). Step 6 of the instructions tells you to make sure its gear is fully engaged and the VSS is fully seated before you tighten the retaining bolt. If you don't install the VSS properly, the speed sensor gear will get stripped and the A/T will be seriously damaged. So don't take risks with your customer's vehicle. Always follow these instructions to the letter. You can rest assured you're doing the job right. Air Mix Control Motor Test Air Door Actuator / Motor: Testing and Inspection Air Mix Control Motor Test Heating and Air Conditioning Air Mix Control Motor Test 1. Disconnect the 5P connector from the air mix control motor. 2. Connect battery power to the No. 1 terminal of the air mix control motor, and ground the No. 5 terminal; the air mix control motor should run, and stop at Max Hot. If it doesn't, reverse the connections; the air mix control motor should run, and stop at Max Cool. If the air mix control motor does not run, remove it, then check the air mix control linkage and doors for smooth movement. If the linkage and doors move smoothly, replace the air mix control motor. - If the linkage or doors stick or bind, repair them as needed. - If the air mix control motor runs smoothly, go to step 3. 3. Measure the resistance between the No. 2 and No. 3 terminals. It should be between 4.2 kOhm to 7.8 kOhm. 4. Measure the resistance between the No. 2 and No. 4 terminals. Max Cool - 0.58 k to 1.09 kOhm Max Hot - 3.52 k to 6.55 kOhm Climate Control 1. Disconnect the 5P connector from the air mix control motor. 2. Connect battery power to the No.1 terminal of the air mix control motor, and ground the No.5 terminal; the air mix control motor should run, and stop at MAX HOT. If it doesn't, reverse the connections; the air mix control motor should run, and stop at MAX COOL. If the air mix control motor does not run, remove it, then check the air mix control linkage and doors for smooth movement. If they move smoothly, replace the air mix control motor. - If the doors are stuck or binding, repair them as needed. 3. Measure the resistance between the No.2 and No.3 terminals. It should be between 4.2 k ohms to 7.8 k ohms. 4. Measure the resistance between the No.2 and No.4 terminals. Max Cool - 0.58 k to 1.09 k ohms Max Hot - 3.52 k ohms to 6.55 k ohms Page 10060 Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution diagram set to get a more detailed picture of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Master Switch Test/Replacement Power Window Switch: Testing and Inspection Master Switch Test/Replacement Master Switch Test/Replacement 1. Remove the instrument panel. 2. Disconnect the 14P connector (A) from the power window master switch (B). 3. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table. Driver's Switch: The driver's switch is combined with the control unit, so you cannot isolate the switch to test it. Instead, run the master switch input test procedures. If the tests are normal, the driver's switch must be faulty. 4. If the continuity is not as specified, remove the three screws and replace the switch. Page 5053 9. Front of Engine Specifications Harmonic Balancer - Crankshaft Pulley: Specifications Crankshaft Pulley Torque: 1st ........................................................................................................................................................ .......................... 20 Nm (2.0 kgf-m, 14 ft. lbs.) 2nd ............................................................................. .................................................................................. Tighten the pulley bolt an additional 90° Page 4368 Locations Clockspring Assembly / Spiral Cable: Locations 48. Left Side of Steering Column 50. Right Side of Steering Column Service and Repair Glove Compartment: Service and Repair Glove Box Removal/Installation NOTE: Take care not to scratch the dashboard and related parts. 1. Remove the glove box as shown. 2. Install the glove box in the reverse order of removal. Locations 41. Under Left Side of Dash Page 7523 Control Module HVAC: Diagnostic Aids Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Page 8985 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. Page 1833 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. Page 7340 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. Page 3348 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. Page 9349 - If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system. - If all the input tests prove OK, go to step 5. 5. Connect the connectors to the gauge assembly and make these input tests at the connector. - If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system. - If all the input tests prove OK, replace the printed circuit board in the gauge assembly. Page 5986 Brake Booster Vacuum Sensor: Description and Operation Brake Booster Pressure Sensor System Diagram The brake booster pressure sensor converts brake booster vacuum into an electrical input to the ECM. Locations Power Door Locks - Component Location Index Page 7466 Refrigerant: Testing and Inspection Refrigerant Leak Test Special Tool Required Leak detector, Honda Tool and Equipment YGK-H-10PM, commercially available CAUTION: - Air conditioning refrigerant or lubricant vapor can irritate your eyes, nose, or throat. - Be careful when connecting service equipment. - Do not breathe refrigerant or vapor. WARNING: - Compressed air mixed with R-134a forms a combustible vapor. - The vapor can burn or explode causing serious injury. - Never use compressed air to pressure test R-134a service equipment or vehicle air conditioning system. Use only service equipment that is U.L.-listed and is certified to meet the requirements of SAE J2210 to remove HFC-134a (R-134a) from the air conditioning system. If accidental system discharge occurs, ventilate work area before resuming service. R-134a service equipment or vehicle air conditioning systems should not be pressure tested or leak tested with compressed air. Additional health and safety information may be obtained from the refrigerant and lubricant manufacturers. 1. Connect a R-134a refrigerant recovery/recycling/charging station (A) to the high-pressure service port (B) and the low-pressure service port (C), as shown, following the equipment manufacturer's instructions. 2. Open high pressure valve to charge the system to the specified capacity, then close the supply valve, and remove the charging system couplers. Refrigerant capacity: Select the appropriate units of measure for your refrigerant charging station. 500 to 550 g 0.50 to 0.55 kg 1.1 to 1.2 lbs 17.6 to 19.4 oz 3. Check the system for leaks using a R-134a refrigerant leak detector with an accuracy of 14g (0.5 oz) per year or better. 4. If you find leaks that require the system to be opened (to repair or replace hoses, fittings, etc.), recover the system. Campaign - Integrated Motor Assist Controller Update Technical Service Bulletin # 01-102 Date: 011127 Campaign - Integrated Motor Assist Controller Update 01-102 November 27, 2001 Applies To: 2000-01 Insight with M/T - See VEHICLES AFFECTED Product Update: IMA Controller Modification BACKGROUND The IMA (Integrated Motor Assist) system supplies power to various 12-volt loads on the vehicle (lights, radio, windows, etc.) and assists the engine to improve vehicle performance. In very cold weather, power demands on the IMA battery module can exceed output, causing permanent damage to the battery module. VEHICLES AFFECTED Not all 2000-01 Insights with M/T are affected by this product update. Only vehicles that are registered and normally driven in cold weather areas are affected. Before you begin, verify that the vehicle is registered in one of the states affected by the update (see the map). Then check for vehicle eligibility by doing one of the following. ^ Verify that the customer has a notification letter. ^ Check the vehicle's VIN on your campaign responsibility report. ^ Do a VIN status inquiry on DCS. CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION All owners of affected vehicles will be sent a notification of this product update. An example of the customer notification. CORRECTIVE ACTION Replace the battery condition monitor (BCM) module and the motor control module (MCM). PARTS INFORMATION Page 1974 Splices Components Ground - "G" Component Locations Power Windows - Component Location Index Page 613 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 1197 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 6387 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Application and ID Ground To Components Index Page 1740 Engine Oil: Testing and Inspection INSPECTION: 1. Park the vehicle on level ground, and turn off the engine. Allow the oil a few minutes to drain back into the oil pan so the dipstick will show the actual level. 2. Make certain that the oil level indicated on the dipstick is between the upper and lower marks. 3. If the level has dropped close to the lower mark, add oil until it reaches the upper mark. CAUTION: Insert the dipstick carefully to avoid bending it. SRS Components Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Description and Operation SRS Components SRS Components The SRS is a safety device which, when used in conjunction with the seat belt, is designed to help protect the driver and passenger in a frontal impact exceeding a certain set limit. The system consists of the SRS unit, including a safing sensor and an impact sensor (A), the cable reel (B), the driver's airbag (C) and the passenger's airbag (D). The seat belt tensioner (E) is linked with the SRS airbags to further increase the effectiveness of the seat belt. In a front-end collision, the tensioner instantly retracts the belt firmly to secure the occupants in their seats. Gas Tank - Fuel Pump/Sending Unit Installation Tip Fuel Gauge Sender: Technical Service Bulletins Gas Tank - Fuel Pump/Sending Unit Installation Tip SOURCE: Honda Service News March 2003 TITLE: Installing an In-Tank Fuel Pump/Sending Unit? Don't Forget a New Base Gasket, Locknut, and Fuel Line Retainers APPLIES TO: See Models Listed In Illustration SERVICE TIP: Whenever you install an in-tank fuel pump/sending unit into a plastic fuel tank, the S/M tells you to install a new base gasket. But did you know you also need to replace the locknut and the fuel line retainers as well? Make a note in the Fuel Supply System subsection of the appropriate S/Ms to also replace the locknut and the fuel line retainers. Then follow this handy chart to order the appropriate parts. Install the new gasket on the fuel tank side, not on the fuel pump/sending unit side; this ensures that the gasket doesn't get pinched or rolled. If you don't install the fuel pump/sending unit correctly, the MIL could come on with an EVAP control system leakage DTC set. The gasket and the locknut are currently available in Honda parts stock under separate part numbers. But soon, they'll be packaged under a single part number. The fuel sending unit, gasket, and locknut will also be packaged together under a single part number. The gasket and the locknut will then be discontinued as separate part numbers. Page 549 Wire Color Coding Distinct Of Circuit By Wire Base Color All wires have color-coded insulation. Wires belonging to a system's main harness will have a single color. Wires belonging to a system's sub-circuits will have a colored stripe. Striped wires use the codes found in the chart to show wire size and colors. Abbreviations are used to indicate wire color within a circuit diagram. Wire Color Abbreviations The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics: WHT................................... White YEL................................... Yellow BLK................................... Black BLU................................... Blue GRN................................... Green RED................................... Red ORN................................... Orange PNK................................... Pink BRN................................... Brown GRY................................... Gray PUR................................... Purple LT BLU................................... Light Blue LT GRN................................... Light Green The wire insulation has one color or one color with another color stripe. The second color is the stripe. How to Identify Connector Terminals How to Identify Connector Terminals Page 3632 Brake Signal: Testing and Inspection Brake Switch Signal Circuit Troubleshooting 1. Check the brake lights. Are the brake lights on without pressing the brake pedal? YES - Inspect the brake switch adjustment. NO - Go to step 2. 2. Press the brake pedal. Do the brake lights come on? YES - Go to step 3. NO - Go to step 4. 3. Measure voltage between ECM connector terminals A32 and B20 with the brake pedal pressed. Is there battery voltage? YES - The brake switch signal is OK. NO - Repair open in the wire between the ECM (A32) and the brake switch. 4. Inspect the No.6 (10 A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box. Is the fuse OK? YES - Repair open in the wire between the brake switch and the No.6 (10 A) fuse. Inspect the brake switch. NO - Repair short in the wire between the ECM(A32) and the No.6 (10 A) fuse. Replace the No.6 (10 A) fuse. Diagnostic Aids Fuse Block: Diagnostic Aids Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Page 8547 Use the double action sander and #60-#80 disc paper. - Sand the area larger than the damaged area. Use the double action sander and #180-#240 disc paper. - If a double action sander is not available, use a rubber pad and wet or dry sandpaper. Use the flexible block and #280, #340, #400, #600 sandpaper. Damage to undercoat, intermediate coat and top coat: - Sand the damage area flat and smooth Use the double action sander and #180-#240-#320 disc paper. 2. Preparation of metal surface Remove all corrosion from the damaged area. Use a product that removes corrosion. 3. Air blowing / degreasing Use alcohol, wax, and grease remover. Treatment of Metal Surface Treatment of Metal Surface 1. Filling / drying Small cracks or pinholes in the sheet metal should be repaired with a body filler and sanded flat and smooth. - Use the 2-part polyester resin putty. - Mix the putty with the hardener in the correct ratio. - Follow the body filler manufacturer's instructions. - Mix the body filler and hardener quickly. - Apply the body filler in several thin coats, without air bubbles. - Do not try to cover the surface with one heavy coat. Page 8079 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 384 DTC P1861 thru P2238 Page 4333 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 4510 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 7865 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 9839 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. Component Locations Fuse: Component Locations Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box Part 1 Specifications Idle Speed: Specifications Idle Speed ........................................................................................................................................... .............................................................. 900 ± 50 rpm Page 8552 Spray the top coat clear evenly over the surface of the top coat enamel. Do not try to cover the surface with one heavy coat. Drying After spraying the clear c6at, allow it to dry for 10 minutes, then force dry it with infrared lamps or other industrial dryer. NOTE: Follow the top coat manufacturer's instructions for drying times. 3. Polishing / buffing Check that the clear coat has dried thoroughly. The clear coat is cooled. -1. Any adhesion or roughness on the top coat should be wet sanded and repaired. Use the #1200-#2000 and crystal block. -2. Polish any roughness caused by sanding. NOTE: Clean the top coat surface frequently so you don't damage the clear coat with the polishing particles. Use a buffing towel, buffing wool, and compound. -3. Finishes up with buffing. NOTE: Do not use a power buffer. - Don't polish too much; Use light hand pressure. Use the buffing sponge, fine compound, very fine compound, then ultra fine compound. -4. After buffing, remove the masking paper and tape, and thoroughly wash the entire vehicle. Page 1871 First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Service and Repair Oil Pressure Switch (For Fuel Pump): Service and Repair VTEC Oil Pressure Switch Replacement 1. Disconnect the VTEC oil pressure switch connector, then remove the VTEC oil pressure switch (A). 2. Install the VTEC oil pressure switch using a new O-ring (B). Page 8871 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 633 Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Testing and Inspection Power Relay Test Power Relay Test Normally-open type A: 1. Turn the battery module switch OFF, and measure the voltage. 2. Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is disconnected. A/C compressor clutch relay - Air fuel ratio sensor relay - Condenser fan relay - Daytime running lights relay (Canada) - Headlight relay 1 - Headlight relay 2 - High speed battery module fan control relay - High speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - High voltage conductor control relay - Horn relay - Ignition hold relay - Low speed battery module fan control relay - Low speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - Power window relay - Radiator fan relay - Rear window defogger relay - Reverse relay - Starter cut relay - Taillight relay Page 8801 Wire Color Abbreviations Page 4896 Wire Color Abbreviations Page 8561 NOTE: Take care not to let the heat lamp deform the bumper during the drying process. After spraying the clear coat, allow for 5-10 minutes drying time before you force dry it with infrared lamps or other industrial dryer. 3. Polishing / buffing - Check that the clear coat has dried thoroughly. - Wet sand to remove any imperfections. Use a flexible block,soap,and #2000 sandpaper. - Using a buffer and compound, remove any polishing marks made from the sandpaper. Use a buffing sponge, and buffing wool and compounds. Finish up with buffing: -1. Wet sands with #2000 sandpaper and soapy water. -2. Remove moisture using compressed air. -3. Finish using fine compound and very fine compound. Do not polish with a electric polisher. NOTE: Polish lightly. -4. Check the finished area at an angle, and make sure there are no polishing marks. -5. Polish with ultra fine compound and a buffing sponge. -6. Wax the finished area. Page 7039 5. Lower the jacks on the right and left evenly, and remove the spring (A) and upper spring cushion (B). 6. Remove the nut (c) and bump stop (D). 7. Install the bump stop and spring in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - Align the spring upper end (A) with the stepped part of the upper spring cushion (B), and align the spring lower end (C) with the stepped part of the spring seat on the rear axle beam (D). - When installing the flange bolts connecting the bottom of the dampers to the rear axle beam, first lightly tighten the bolts, raise the suspension with the jacks to load the vehicle weight, then fully tighten the bolts to the specified torque. Emissions/Engine Controls - MIL ON/DTC P1457 (EVAP) Engine Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins Emissions/Engine Controls - MIL ON/DTC P1457 (EVAP) 03-001 January 28, 2003 Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED MIL Comes On With DTC P1457: EVAP Bypass Solenoid Valve Failure SYMPTOM The MIL is on, and DTC P1457 [leak detected in EVAP control system (EVAP control canister system)] is set. PROBABLE CAUSE The EVAP bypass solenoid valve can fail due to corrosion. The solenoid valve may get water inside. If the water contains road salt, the solenoid windings could corrode, causing the valve to fail. In a few rare instances, the corrosion could be severe enough to cause an internal short in the solenoid valve, which could damage the ECM/PCM. If this happens, both the bypass solenoid valve and the ECM/PCM would need to be replaced. Vehicles driven in the Northeastern part of the U.S. are more likely to have this problem because of the salting of roads during the winter months. Vehicles driven where salt is not used on the roads are much less likely to have this problem. VEHICLES AFFECTED 1998-02 Accord 1998-00 Civic 1998-01 CR-V 2000-02 Insight 1999-03 Odyssey 2003 Pilot 2000-03 S2000 CORRECTIVE ACTION Test and, if necessary, replace the EVAP bypass solenoid valve. Replace the ECM/PCM if needed. PARTS INFORMATION Refer to the parts catalog for the appropriate part number and Honda code. WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Failed Part: EVAP Bypass Solenoid Valve: Page 4614 Refueling Control Valve: Service and Repair Fuel Tank Vapor Control Valve Replacement 1. Remove the fuel tank. 2. Remove the fuel tank vapor control valve (A) from the fuel tank (B). 3. Install the fuel tank vapor control valve (A). 4. Install the fuel tank. Page 7857 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Page 1908 NO - Repair open in the wire between the PGM-FI main relay and G101. 30. Measure voltage between body ground and ECM connector terminals B1 and B9 individually. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 37. NO - Go to step 31. 31. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 32. Remove the PGM-FI main relay (IGP). 33. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 34. Measure voltage between PGM-FI main relay (IGP) 4P connector terminal No.2 and body ground. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 35. NO - Repair open in the wire between the No.7 (15 A) fuse and the PGM-FI main relay (IGP). 35. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 36. Check for continuity between PGM-FI main relay (IGP) 4P connector terminal No.1 and ECM connector terminals B1 and B9 individually. Is there continuity? Page 8086 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Page 1910 NO - Go to step 43. 43. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 44. Disconnect ECM connector C (31P). 45. Check for continuity between ECM connector terminal C19 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Repair short in the wire between the ECM (C19) and the MAP sensor. NO - Update the ECM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM, replace the original ECM. 46. Measure voltage between body ground and ECM connector terminal C28. Is there about 5 V? YES - Go to step 53. (CVT model) - Update the ECM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM, replace the original ECM. (M/T model) NO - Go to step 47. 47. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 48. Disconnect the 3P connector from each of these sensors, one at a time, and measure voltage between body ground and ECM connector terminal C28 with the ignition switch ON (II). Exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) valve position sensor - Brake booster pressure sensor - Fuel tank pressure (FTP) sensor - Throttle position (TP) sensor Page 2915 14. Check for continuity between body ground and the low speed motor power inverter module fan control relay 4P connector terminal No. 1. Is there continuity? YES- Substitute a known-good MCM and MPI module fan, and recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away, replace the original MCM and the MPI module fan. NO- Repair open in the wire between the MPI module fan and the low speed motor power inverter module fan control relay. 15. Check the high speed motor power inverter module fan control relay. Is the relay OK? YES- Go to step 16. NO- Replace the high speed motor power inverter module fan control relay. N 16. Disconnect MCM connector A (32P) and the high speed motor power inverter module fan control relay 4P connector. 17. Connect the high speed motor power inverter module fan control relay 4P connector terminal No. 3 and body ground with a jumper wire. 18. Check for continuity between body ground and MCM connector terminal A7. Is there continuity? YES- Go to step 19. NO- Repair open in the wire between the MCM (A7) and the high speed motor power inverter module fan control relay. Page 4742 Connectors - "C" Page 4186 DTC P0401 thru P0562 Page 3882 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. Service and Repair Air Cleaner Element Replacement Page 6210 Commutator Runout Standard (New): 0.02 mm (0.001 in.) max. Service Limit: 0.05 mm (0.002 in.) 7. Check the mica depth (A). If the mica is too high (B), undercut the mica with a hacksaw blade to the proper depth. Cut away all the mica (C) between the commutator segments. The undercut should not be too shallow, too narrow, or V-shaped (D). Commutator Mica Depth Standard (New): 0.4 - 0.5 mm (0.016 - 0.020 in.) Service Limit: 0.15 mm (0.006 in.) 8. Check for continuity between the segments of the commutator. If an open circuit exists between any segments, replace the armature. 9. Place the armature (A) on an armature tester (B). Hold a hacksaw blade (C) on the armature core. If the blade is attracted to the core or vibrates while the core is turned, the armature is shorted. Replace the armature. Locations 62. Middle of Dash Locations 39. Upper Left Kick Panel Area Service and Repair Air Cleaner Element Replacement Page 10286 Windshield Washer Switch: Service and Repair Wiper/Washer Switch Test/Replacement 1. Remove the steering column covers. 2. Disconnect the 14P connector (B) from the wiper/washer switch (A). 3. Remove the two screws, then pull out the switch. 4. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table. If the continuity is not as specified, replace the switch. Page 9695 Diodes How to Identify Wiring Color-Coded Insulation Wire Color Page 8960 Connectors - "C" Hybrid System - IMA Battery Module Warranty Extension Technical Service Bulletin # 06-057 Date: 110316 Hybrid System - IMA Battery Module Warranty Extension 06-057 March 16, 2011 Applies To: 2000-04 Insight - See VEHICLES AFFECTED Warranty Extension: Insight IMA Battery Module (Supersedes 06-057, dated October 18, 2007, to revise the information marked by the black bars and asterisks) *REVISION SUMMARY Under WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION, some operation number and flat rate time information was changed.* BACKGROUND NOTE: Because of a class action settlement, the warranty extension coverage for the IMA battery module on 2002-04 Insights purchased or leased between April 13, 2002, and November 7, 2006, is now 10 years or 157,500 miles, whichever occurs first. For more information, refer to Service Bulletin 06-085 Warranty Extension: Vehicle Warranty Mileage. To ensure continued reliability with the IMA system, American Honda is announcing an IMA battery module warranty extension for certain 2000-04 Insights. The IMA battery module is now covered for 10 years or 150,000 miles, whichever occurs first. This warranty extension applies to the 43 states not already covered by Service Bulletin 06-027, Warranty Extension: IMA Battery VEHICLES AFFECTED This warranty extension affects 2000-04 Insights registered in the shaded states on this map*: *2000-04 Insights registered in Arizona, California, Colorado, Florida, Hawaii, Nevada, and Texas are covered by Service Bulletin 06-027, Warranty Extension: IMA Battery. CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION Owners of affected vehicles within the 43 affected states will receive a notification of this warranty extension. An example of the warranty extension notification is at the end of this service bulletin. To verify warranty extension eligibility, you must do a VIN status inquiry. CORRECTIVE ACTION Replace the IMA battery module if it has failed. In addition, replace the battery condition monitor and the motor control module on 2000-01 models or, on 2002-04 models, replace the battery condition monitor only. Page 4599 Canister Vent Valve: Description and Operation EVAP Canister Vent Shut Valve Located next to the canister, the vent solenoid opens to allow air into the EVAP system. Fresh air is necessary to completely remove gasoline fumes from the canister during purge. The EVAP vent solenoid closes to seal off the evaporative emissions system for leak testing. Page 2300 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Page 8389 Interior Lights - Dash And Console LightsCeiling Lights Image 114-1 Page 8224 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 6265 Auxiliary Power Outlet: Service and Repair Test/Replacement 1. Remove the center lower cover. 2. Disconnect the 2P connector (A). 3. Inspect the connector terminals to be sure they are all making good contact. - If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system. - If the terminals look OK, go to step 4. 4. Turn the ignition switch ACC (I), and check for voltage between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals. - There should be battery voltage. - If there is no battery voltage, check for: poor ground (G404). - an open in the wire. - blown No. 12 (10 A) in the under-dash fuse/relay box. 5. If the test proves OK, replace the socket (B). Page 5119 - Taillight relay Page 4032 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. Page 2713 1. Inspect the cooling air intake behind the passenger seat and the cooling exhaust holes in the IMA case above the spare tire. If either is obstructed, remove the obstruction, and clear the code. Advise the customer that blocking the vents can cause this problem. 2. Remove the IMA cover (steps 3-10 of REPAIR PROCEDURE). Refer to page 12-4 of the 2000 Insight Service Manual. 3. Make sure the cooling fan on the battery pack is operating normally. Use the PGM Tester to run the fan in high and low speed modes. ^ If the fan is OK, check the part number on the battery condition monitor module. If the part number is not 1K100-PHM-030, then the battery condition monitor module and the motor control module need to be replaced. Go to REPAIR PROCEDURE. ^ If the fan is not OK, repair as needed. REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Write down the radio station presets. 2. Turn the ignition switch off, then disconnect the negative cable from the 12-volt battery in the engine compartment. 3. Remove the cargo area carpet and the cargo box. (Refer to page 20-43 of the Insight Service Manual). Page 1308 Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor: Description and Operation Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor The MAP sensor converts manifold absolute pressure into electrical signals to the ECM. Page 5994 Brake Fluid Level Sensor/Switch: Testing and Inspection Brake Fluid Level Switch Test Check for continuity between the terminals (A) with the float in the down position and the up position: ^ Remove the brake fluid completely from the reservoir. With the float down, there should be continuity. ^ Fill the reservoir with brake fluid to MAX (upper) level (B). With the float up, there should be no continuity. Page 7471 Refrigerant: Service and Repair System Charging CAUTION: - Air conditioning refrigerant or lubricant vapor can irritate your eyes, nose, or throat. - Be careful when connecting service equipment. - Do not breathe refrigerant or vapor. Use only service equipment that is U.L.-listed and is certified to meet the requirements of SAE J2210 to remove HFC-134a (R-134a) from the air conditioning system. If accidental system discharge occurs, ventilate work area before resuming service. Additional health and safety information may be obtained from the refrigerant and lubricant manufacturers. 1. Connect a R-134a refrigerant recovery/recycling/charging station (A) to the high-pressure service port (B) and the low-pressure service port (C), as shown, following the equipment manufacturer's instructions. 2. Add the same amount of new refrigerant oil to the system that was removed during recovery. Use only SANDEN SP-10 refrigerant oil. 3. Charge the system with the specified amount of R-134a refrigerant. Do not overcharge the system; the compressor will be damaged. Refrigerant capacity: Select the appropriate units of measure for your refrigerant charging station. 500 to 550 g 0.50 to 0.55 kg 1.1 to 1.2 lbs 17.6 to 19.4 oz Page 6393 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: Page 1543 ^ Loosen the front subframe bolts. See the applicable service manual for more information. NOTE: The front wheels are being viewed from the rear of the vehicle. ^ Depending which way you need to shift the subframe, insert a pry bar between the subframe and body at both the front and rear positions of the subframe. NOTE: Be careful not to damage the vehicle. You could bend and damage the frame and/or body if you apply too much pressure. ^ Press on both pry bars to shift the subframe. It will move only a few millimeters. This should adjust the camber about 0.2-0.5°. ^ While holding the subframe in place, have an assistant torque the subframe bolts to their proper torque. Front Camber Adjustment, Strut Suspension ^ Raise the vehicle, and remove the front tires. ^ Loosen the damper pinch bolts and the flange nuts. ^ Adjust the camber by moving the bottom of the damper within the range of the damper pinch bolt free play. NOTE: Some vehicles have special pinch bolts that allow more adjustment. For more information, refer to the parts catalog. ^ Tighten the damper pinch bolts to the specified torque. ^ Reinstall the front wheels and lower the vehicle. Bounce the front of the vehicle several times to stabilize the suspension. Page 2564 Page 1121 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. Page 9272 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. Locations Cylinder Identification Sensor: Locations Part 1 Of 2 Page 1306 11. Middle of Engine Page 3057 PARTS INFORMATION Engine Control Module: P/N 06380-PHM-A00, H/C 6441117 WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Carefully remove the passenger's side door sill trim. 2. Remove the two carpet hold-down clips on the door sill. 3. Remove the carpet hold-down clip in the passenger's footwell under the glove box. Pull back the carpet. 4. Remove the ECM cover mounting nuts. 5. Pivot the lower edge of the ECM cover off the mounting studs. Lift the upper edge of the cover off the mounting studs, then pull the cover down and back so it clears the evaporator drain tube. 6. Remove the two bolts mounting the ECM to the cover. Disconnect the ECM connectors. 7. Install the new ECM in the reverse order of removal. 8. Reinstall the carpet and the door sill trim. Page 9436 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. Page 10017 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. Specifications Page 7786 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 463 ECM Inputs And Outputs At Connector C (31P) Part 2 Page 10126 In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locater) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: - Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. Page 8266 Relay And Control Unit Locations - Floor And Rear Page 398 DTC P0A94 thru P0157 Suspension - Drifting & Pulling At Highway Speeds Alignment: All Technical Service Bulletins Suspension - Drifting & Pulling At Highway Speeds SOURCE: Honda Service News September 2003 TITLE: Drifting and Pulling at Highway Speeds APPLIES TO: All Models SERVICE TIP: Got a customer complaining that the vehicle drifts or pulls when driving at highway speeds? Use this handy procedure to diagnose and repair the problem. NOTE: Before doing the procedure in this article, check ISIS for related S/Bs and other S/N articles for the model you're working on. 1. Check if your customer has original equipment wheels and tires and that the ride height hasn't been modified. - If the wheels, tires, and ride height are OK, go to step 2. - If the wheels or tires aren't original equipment or the ride height was modified, stop here. Aftermarket wheels or tires or a ride height that's been modified pose challenges that this article doesn't cover. Resolve these issues with your customer before going further. 2. Set the tire pressures to the recommended cold inflation values listed on the doorjamb sticker. 3. Find a straight stretch of 4-lane road where you can safely (and legally) go 60 mph for several minutes. Ideally, you want a road that's perfectly flat, but most roads have a crown that¡C■s anywhere from 1.5° to 1.75° so they can drain. Flat Road - While driving at 60 mph, use a stopwatch to time how long it takes to drift one full lane from center to center. Record the time. Repeat this, driving in the opposite direction to cancel the effects of wind, then average the two times you recorded. If the vehicle drifts one full lane from center to center in less than 6 seconds, go to step 4. If not, return the vehicle to your customer. Crowned Road - While driving at 60 mph, check if the vehicle climbs the crown. Do this for both a left- and right-crowned road. A drift to the right on a right-crowned road and a drift to the left on left-crowned road are considered normal. If the vehicle climbs the crown or it drifts to the right on a left crowned road, go to step 4. 4. Record the original toe, camber, and caster readings. On Passports, set the ride height to spec if needed. Refer to Ride Height Adjustment in S/B 99-043, Steering Wheel Shimmy or Chassis Vibration. 5. Loosen the subframe mounting bolts, and move the rear beam (it¡C■s the entire front subframe on some models) to get the maximum amount of caster and equal side-to-side camber. (As little as 0.4° of camber stagger can cause the vehicle to pull.) 6. Make sure the steering wheel is centered, then set the front and rear toe to the maximum toe-in spec. (Toe-in improves vehicle stability and reduces the tendency to drift or pull.) 7. Test-drive the vehicle on the same road you used earlier. - If the drift is now within spec, return the vehicle to your customer. - If the drift is still out of spec, go to step 8. 8. Swap the front and rear tires on each side of the vehicle, then adjust the tire pressures to the recommended cold inflation values listed on the doorjamb sticker. 9. Test-drive the vehicle on the same road you used earlier. - If the drift is now within spec, swap each rear tire back to the front, one at a time, and test-drive the vehicle on the same road you used earlier. Replace the bad tire, then return the vehicle to your customer. - If the drift is still out of spec after swapping the front and rear tires, go to step 10. 10. Test-drive a known-good donor vehicle on the same road you used earlier, and check its pull. 11. Swap all four tires from the donor vehicle with the tires on your customer¡C■s vehicle. Specifications Camshaft Bearing: Specifications Camshaft Bearing Caps / Tightening Sequence Tightening Sequence Camshaft Holders Torque ................................................................................................................................................. .............................. 12 Nm (1.2 kgf-m, 8.7 ft. lbs.). Page 1009 Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow from power at the top of the diagram to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another for example is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors Service and Repair Headlamp Bulb: Service and Repair Headlight Bulb Replacement: 1. Disconnect the 3P connector (A) from the headlight. 2. Remove the retainer (B) and bulb (C). 3. Disconnect the 2P connectors, then turn the bulb socket 45 ° counterclockwise to remove the bulb. 4. Remove the inner fender. 5. Disconnect the 2P connector (A), then turn the bulb socket 45 ° counterclockwise to remove the bulb (B). A/F Sensor Replacement Oxygen Sensor: Service and Repair A/F Sensor Replacement A/F Sensor Replacement 1. Disconnect the A/F sensor 4P or 8P connector (A), and remove the A/F sensor (B). 2. Install the A/F sensor in the reverse order of removal. Page 640 Ignition Hold Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relay Test Normally-open type A: 1. Turn the battery module switch OFF, and measure the voltage. 2. Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is disconnected. A/C compressor clutch relay - Air fuel ratio sensor relay - Condenser fan relay - Daytime running lights relay (Canada) - Headlight relay 1 - Headlight relay 2 - High speed battery module fan control relay - High speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - High voltage conductor control relay - Horn relay - Ignition hold relay - Low speed battery module fan control relay - Low speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - Power window relay - Radiator fan relay - Rear window defogger relay - Reverse relay - Starter cut relay Capacity Specifications Fluid - CVT: Capacity Specifications CAPACITY (CVT Transmission) Change ................................................................................................................................................ ............................................................... 3.5 Qt (3.3L) Complete Refill ............................................... ................................................................................................................................................... 5.8 Qt (5.5L) Page 8220 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. Page 2113 Connecting Rod: Service and Repair For further information regarding this component and the system it is a part of, please refer to Cylinder Block Assembly; Service and Repair. Page 9672 32. Left Front Side of Engine Compartment Diagrams Page 817 Splices Components Ground - "G" Page 3610 6. If you feel too much or too little drag, loosen the locknut (A), and turn the adjusting screw (B) until the drag on the feeler gauge is correct. 7. Tighten the locknut and recheck the clearance. Repeat the adjustment, if necessary. 8. Rotate the crankshaft 240° clockwise (camshaft sprocket turn 120°). The second TDC mark (A) should be aligned with the cylinder head surface. 9. Check and, if necessary, adjust the valve clearance on No. 3 cylinder. 10. Rotate the crankshaft 240° clockwise (camshaft sprocket turn 120°). The third TDC mark should be aligned with the cylinder head surface. 11. Check and, if necessary, adjust the valve clearance on No. 2 cylinder. 12. Install the cylinder head cover. Page 3161 11. Lift out the battery module foam insert. 12. Remove the mounting bolts for the battery condition monitor (BCM) module and the motor control module (MCM). Disconnect the electrical connectors, then remove the modules. 13. Install the new BCM and MCM. Make sure all module connectors are secure. 14. Install the IPU lid. 15. Remove the locking cover from the battery module switch, install the 5 mm bolt, turn the switch on, reinstall the locking cover, and install the battery module switch cover. 16. Install the remaining parts in the reverse order of removal. 17. Reconnect the negative cable to the under-hood 12 V battery. Page 4311 Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow from power at the top of the diagram to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another for example is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors Page 9145 Seat Belt Reminder Lamp: Testing and Inspection Lights-on, Key-in, Seat Belt Reminder, Key Light Timer, Indicator/Reminder Systems 1. Remove the gauge assembly. 2. Disconnect the gauge assembly 30P connector A and 22P connector B. 3. Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are making good contact. - If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system. - If the terminals are OK, go to step 4. 4. With the connectors still disconnected, make these input tests at the connector. Page 9937 Splices Components Ground - "G" Page 4557 5. If the filter is not clogged, push the VTEC solenoid valve with your finger and check its movement. If the VTEC solenoid valve is normal, check the engine oil pressure. Page 3043 Page 7587 57. Top Middle of Dash Page 1031 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 2315 Variable Valve Timing Pressure Switch: Service and Repair VTEC Pressure Switch Replacement 1. Disconnect the VTEC pressure switch connector, then remove the VTEC pressure switch (A). 2. Install the VTEC pressure switch using a new O-ring (B). Locations Page 3849 DISCLAIMER Specifications Refrigerant Recovery Refrigerant: Service and Repair Refrigerant Recovery CAUTION: - Air conditioning refrigerant or lubricant vapor can irritate your eyes, nose, or throat. - Be careful when connecting service equipment. - Do not breathe refrigerant or vapor. Use only service equipment that is U.L.-listed and is certified to meet the requirements of SAE J2210 to remove HFC-134a (R-134a) from the air conditioning system. If accidental system discharge occurs, ventilate work area before resuming service. Additional health and safety information may be obtained from the refrigerant and lubricant manufacturers. 1. Connect R-134a refrigerant recovery/recycling/charging station (A) to the high-pressure service port (B) and the low-pressure service port (C), as shown, following the equipment manufacturer's instructions. 2. Measure the amount of refrigerant oil removed from the A/C system after the recovery process is completed. Be sure to put the same amount of new refrigerant oil back into the A/C system before charging. Page 8606 3. Install the seat cover in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - To prevent wrinkles when installing a seat cover, make sure the material is stretched evenly over the pad before securing the clips. - Replace the released clips with new ones using commercially available upholstery pliers. Page 6689 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: Page 7528 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. Page 8789 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. Page 8691 - Weld the damper housing, wheelhouse B, and front damper base. - From passenger compartment side, plug weld the holes in the dashboard lower, wheelhouse B and damper base. Page 8299 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 6098 - Taillight relay Page 6448 EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Locations 47. Steering Wheel (Airbag Removed) Page 6694 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. Page 6652 Fuse-to-Components Index Image 6-2 Page 10120 Wire Color Coding Distinct Of Circuit By Wire Base Color All wires have color-coded insulation. Wires belonging to a system's main harness will have a single color. Wires belonging to a system's sub-circuits will have a colored stripe. Striped wires use the codes found in the chart to show wire size and colors. Abbreviations are used to indicate wire color within a circuit diagram. Wire Color Abbreviations The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics: WHT................................... White YEL................................... Yellow BLK................................... Black BLU................................... Blue GRN................................... Green RED................................... Red ORN................................... Orange PNK................................... Pink BRN................................... Brown GRY................................... Gray PUR................................... Purple LT BLU................................... Light Blue LT GRN................................... Light Green The wire insulation has one color or one color with another color stripe. The second color is the stripe. How to Identify Connector Terminals How to Identify Connector Terminals Page 8550 Use the double action sander and #320-#400-#600 disc papers. 5. Air blowing/degreasing Use the alcohol, wax and grease remover. Also clean and degrease the surfaces where the masking tape will be attached. Intermediate Coating Intermediate Coating 1. Masking Mask the area surrounding the damage to prevent over spray from the intermediate coat. Use masking tape and paper. 2. Spraying top coat enamel Spray the top coat enamel over the surface until the primer surface is fully covered. Use the 2-part polyester urethane top coat enamel and a spray gun. - Mix the top coat enamel with the additive and solvent, and in the correct ratio. Use the 2-part polyester urethane top coat enamel and a spray gun. - Mix the top coat enamel with the additive and solvent, and in the correct ratio. - Follow the top coat manufacturer's instructions. 3. Drying After spraying top coat enamel, allow for 5-10 minutes of normal drying time, then force dry it with infrared lamps or other industrial dryer. NOTE: Follow the top coat manufacturer's instruction for drying time. 4. Polishing Check that the top coat enamel has dried thoroughly, then sand the top coat enamel. Use the double action sander and #600-#800 disc papers. Component Locations Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Component Locations Component Location Index Page 8631 115. Right Side of Cargo Area Page 6208 Starter Motor: Service and Repair Overhaul Starter Overhaul Disassembly/Reassembly Armature Inspection and Test 1. Remove the starter. 2. Disassemble the starter as shown at the beginning of this procedure. Locations Windshield Washer Switch: Locations 50. Right Side of Steering Column Page 9414 Splices Components Ground - "G" Page 4279 ECM/PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector B (25P) Part 1 Page 6508 Auxiliary Power Outlet: Service and Repair Test/Replacement 1. Remove the center lower cover. 2. Disconnect the 2P connector (A). 3. Inspect the connector terminals to be sure they are all making good contact. - If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system. - If the terminals look OK, go to step 4. 4. Turn the ignition switch ACC (I), and check for voltage between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals. - There should be battery voltage. - If there is no battery voltage, check for: poor ground (G404). - an open in the wire. - blown No. 12 (10 A) in the under-dash fuse/relay box. 5. If the test proves OK, replace the socket (B). Page 6380 Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow from power at the top of the diagram to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another for example is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors Page 4838 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Page 3834 DTC P0563 thru P0748 Page 7021 5. Lower the jacks on the right and left evenly, and remove the spring (A) and upper spring cushion (B). 6. Remove the nut (c) and bump stop (D). 7. Install the bump stop and spring in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - Align the spring upper end (A) with the stepped part of the upper spring cushion (B), and align the spring lower end (C) with the stepped part of the spring seat on the rear axle beam (D). - When installing the flange bolts connecting the bottom of the dampers to the rear axle beam, first lightly tighten the bolts, raise the suspension with the jacks to load the vehicle weight, then fully tighten the bolts to the specified torque. Damper Removal and Installation Damper Removal and Installation NOTE: Bolts and nuts with the [star] mark are special corrosion-resistant Dacro fasteners. Use the same type if replacement is necessary. Removal 1. Raise the rear of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper location. Remove the fender skirts and rear wheels on the right and left side of the vehicle. 2. Place a jack under each end of the rear axle beam. Page 1842 175. Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box Page 3321 29. Left Front Side of Engine Compartment Page 4315 In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locater) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: - Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. Page 7208 Blower Motor: Service and Repair Disassembly and Assembly Note these items when overhauling the blower unit: - The recirculation control motor (A), the blower motor high relay (B), and the blower motor (C) can be replaced without removing the blower unit. - Before reassembly, make sure that the recirculation control linkage and door move smoothly. - After reassembly, make sure the recirculation control motor runs smoothly. Page 2373 5. Adjust the idle speed. If necessary, by turning the idle adjusting screw (A) 1/2-turn clockwise or counterclockwise. NOTE: - Do not turn the idle adjusting screw (A) more than 1/2-turn without checking the idle speed. - Do not turn the idle adjusting screw when the air conditioner is on. 6. After turning the idle adjusting screw (A) 1/2-turn, check the idle speed again. If it is out of spec, turn the idle adjusting screw (A) 1/2-turn again. 7. Let the engine idle for 1 minute with the heater fan switch on HI and air conditioner on, then check the idle speed. NOTE: If the idle speed is not within specification, go to the Symptom Troubleshooting index. See: Powertrain Management/Computers and Control Systems/Testing and Inspection/Symptom Related Diagnostic Procedures 8. Reconnect the EVAP canister purge valve 2P connector. 9. Do the ECM idle learn procedure. Page 2070 Wires Page 5111 Ignition Coil: Testing and Inspection Ignition Coil Troubleshooting NOTE: Perform an ignition coil test after finishing the fundamental tests for the ignition system and the fuel and emissions system. 1. Disconnect the three ignition coil 3P connectors. 2. Measure the voltage at each ignition coil 3P connector terminal No. 3 with the ignition switch ON (II). Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 3. NO - Repair an open in the wire between ignition coil and No. 7 (15 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box. 3. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 4. Check for continuity between each ignition coil 3P connector terminal No. 2 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Go to step 5. NO - Repair an open in the wire between the ignition coil and body ground (G101). 5. Disconnect the ECM 31P connector from the ECM. 6. Check for continuity between the body ground and ECM connector terminals C4, C13, and/or C14 individually. Is there continuity? Page 9048 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Locations 10. Middle of Engine Page 3266 10. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and measure voltage between ECM connector terminals B1 and B20, and between B9 and B20. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 11. NO - Check for an open in the wires between the PGM-FI main relay and the ECM (B1, B9). If the wires are OK, replace the PGM-FI main relay. 11. Turn the ignition switch OFF, then ON (II) again, and measure voltage between ECM connector terminals A15 and B2 within the first two seconds after the ignition switch is turned ON (II). Is there 1.0 V or less? YES - The PGM-FI main relay may be faulty. NO - Update the ECM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM, replace the original ECM. Page 204 - Taillight relay Page 4792 29. Left Front Side of Engine Compartment Page 6315 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Page 2716 12. Remove the mounting bolts for the battery condition monitor (BCM) module and the motor control module (MCM). Disconnect the electrical connectors, then remove the two modules. 13. Install the new BCM and the new MCM. Make sure all electrical connectors are secure. 14. Reinstall the IPU lid. 15. Remove the locking cover from the battery module switch, install the 5 mm bolt, turn the switch on, and reinstall the locking cover. 16. Reinstall the remaining parts in the reverse order of removal. 17. Reconnect the negative cable to the 12-volt battery in the engine compartment. 18. Remove the EPS fuse from the under-hood fusel relay box. 19. With the transmission in neutral and the clutch released, run the engine at 3,500 rpm until the battery level shows at least 50 percent charge. 20. Turn off the engine, then reinstall the EPS fuse. 21. Enter the radio station presets, and set the clock. Disclaimer Page 3305 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. Page 2458 8. Remove the jumper, and measure the voltage between radiator fan switch 2P connector terminal NO. 2 and body ground. Is the battery voltage? YES- Check for an open in the BLK wire between the radiator fan switch connector and body ground. If the wire is OK, check for a poor ground at G101. NO- Repair an open in the GRN wire and BLU/RED wire between the radiator fan switch connector and under-hood fuse/relay box. Page 2075 Wire Color Coding Distinct Of Circuit By Wire Base Color All wires have color-coded insulation. Wires belonging to a system's main harness will have a single color. Wires belonging to a system's sub-circuits will have a colored stripe. Striped wires use the codes found in the chart to show wire size and colors. Abbreviations are used to indicate wire color within a circuit diagram. Wire Color Abbreviations The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics: WHT................................... White YEL................................... Yellow BLK................................... Black BLU................................... Blue GRN................................... Green RED................................... Red ORN................................... Orange PNK................................... Pink BRN................................... Brown GRY................................... Gray PUR................................... Purple LT BLU................................... Light Blue LT GRN................................... Light Green The wire insulation has one color or one color with another color stripe. The second color is the stripe. How to Identify Connector Terminals How to Identify Connector Terminals Page 2807 ^ Remove the module(s). ^ Install the new module(s) in the reverse order of removal, and torque the mounting bolts to 9.8 Nm (7.2 lb-ft). 12. Reinstall the foam insert. 13. Reinstall the IPU lid. Torque the bolts to 9.8 Nm (7.2 lb-ft). 14. Reinstall the trunk right side shelf support. Torque the bolts to 9.8 Nm (7.2 lb-ft). 15. Remove the battery module switch locking cover, flip the switch to ON, then reinstall the locking cover. 16. Reinstall the battery module switch cover. 17. Reinstall the rear clips on the middle bulkhead carpet. 18. Reinstall the cargo floor mat. 19. Check for and clear any DTCs with the HDS. 20. Remove the No. 15 (40A) fuse (EPS control unit) from the under-hood fuse/relay box. 21. With the transmission in neutral (M/T) or Park (CVT), and the clutch released (M/T), start the engine. Hold the engine speed at 3,500 rpm until the IMA battery level indicator shows at least 50 percent charge. 22. Turn off the engine, and reinstall the No. 15 fuse. 23. Center-punch a completion mark above the 14th character of the engine compartment VIN. Disclaimer Page 9051 EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 6494 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: Page 1070 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 1118 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Page 6959 2. Position the two tabs (A) of the turn signal canceling sleeve (B) as shown, and install the steering wheel on to the steering column shaft, making sure the steering wheel hub (C) engages the pins (D) of the cable reel and tabs of the canceling sleeve. Do not tap on the steering wheel or steering column shaft when installing the steering wheel. 3. Install the steering wheel bolt (A) and tighten it. 4. Connect the horn switch connector. 5. Install the driver's airbag, and confirm that the system is operating properly. 6. Check the horn and turn signal canceling for proper operation. 7. Reconnect the battery and do the following: - Power window control unit resetting procedure. - Reset the radio station presets. - Set the clock. Page 3285 Diodes How to Identify Wiring Color-Coded Insulation Wire Color Page 7273 Diodes How to Identify Wiring Color-Coded Insulation Wire Color Page 8471 Keyless Entry Transmitter: Testing and Inspection Power Door Locks Transmitter Test NOTE: - If the doors unlock or lock with the transmitter, but the LED on the transmitter does not come on, the LED is faulty; replace the transmitter. - If any door is open, you cannot lock the door with the transmitter. - If you unlocked the doors with the transmitter, but do not open any of the doors within 30 seconds, the doors relock automatically. - The doors do not lock or unlock with the transmitter if the ignition key is inserted in the ignition switch. 1. Press the lock or unlock button five or six times to reset the transmitter. - If the locks work, the transmitter is OK. - If the locks don't work, go to step 2. 2. Open the transmitter and check for water damage. - If you find any water damage, replace the transmitter. - If there is no water damage, go to step 3. 3. Replace the transmitter battery (A) with a new one, and try to lock and unlock the doors with the transmitter by pressing the lock or unlock button five or six times. - If the doors lock and unlock, the transmitter is OK. - If the doors don't lock and unlock, go to step 4. 4. Rewrite and register the transmitter code, then try to lock and unlock the doors. - If the doors lock and unlock, the transmitter is OK. - If the doors don't lock and unlock, replace the transmitter. Page 8988 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 3813 DTC P1253 thru P1459 Page 441 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. Specifications Axle Nut: Specifications Front Axle Nut 22 x 1.5 mm ......................................................................................................................................... ......................... 181 Nm (18.5 kgf-m, 134 ft. lbs.) Rear Axle Nut 20 x 1.5 mm ......................................................................................................................................... ......................... 162 Nm (16.5 kgf-m, 119 ft. lbs.) Page 1882 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 7084 2. Remove the center cap (A), wheel nuts (B), and front wheel (C). 3. Remove the brake hose bracket mounting bolt (A). 4. Remove the caliper bracket mounting bolts (B), and remove the caliper assembly (C) from the knuckle. To prevent damage to the caliper assembly or brake hose, use a short piece of wire to hang the caliper assembly from the undercarriage. Do not twist the brake hose with force. 5. Remove the spindle nut (A). Locations Tail Lamp Relay: Locations Vehicle Locations Page 561 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 3243 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: - Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest OHMS" range. Specifications Piston Ring: Specifications Piston Ring groove width Top Standard or New ...................................................................................................................................... 1.040 - 1.050 mm (0.409 - 0.0413 inch) Service Limit ............................................................................................... ........................................................................ 1.07 mm (0.042 inch) Second Standard or New .................................................................................................................................... 1.220 - 1.230 mm (0.0480 - 0.0484 inch) Service Limit ............................................................................................. .......................................................................... 1.25 mm (0.049 inch) Oil Standard or New .................................................................................................................................... 2.005 - 2.020 mm (0.0789 - 0.0795 inch) Service Limit ............................................................................................. .......................................................................... 2.04 mm (0.080 inch) Piston rings Ring-to-groove clearance Top Standard or New .................................................................................................................................... 0.055 - 0.080 mm (0.0022 - 0.0031 inch) Service Limit ............................................................................................. .......................................................................... 0.15 mm (0.006 inch) Second Standard or New ...................................................................................................................................... 0.030 - 0.05 mm (0.0012 - 0.0022 inch) Service Limit ............................................................................................. .......................................................................... 0.13 mm (0.005 inch) Ring end gap Top Standard or New ............................................................................................................................................ 0.15 0.30 mm (0.006 - 0.012 inch) Service Limit ......................................................................................... .............................................................................. 0.50 mm (0.020 inch) Second Standard or New ............................................................................................................................................ 0.35 0.50 mm (0.014 - 0.020 inch) Service Limit ......................................................................................... .............................................................................. 0.70 mm (0.028 inch) Oil Standard or New ............................................................................................................................................ 0.20 0.70 mm (0.008 - 0.028 inch) Service Limit ......................................................................................... .............................................................................. 0.80 mm (0.031 inch) Page 5659 197. Driving Mode Buttons (CVT) Page 9462 Diodes How to Identify Wiring Color-Coded Insulation Wire Color Specifications Oil Filter: Specifications After the rubber seal seats, tighten the oil filter clockwise with the special tool. Tighten: 7/8 turn clockwise. Tightening torque: 22 Nm (2.2 kgf.m, 16 ft. lbs.) Page 1887 175. Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box Page 7806 Seat Belt Tensioner: Service and Repair Deploying Airbags/Tensioner (Outside Vehicle) Airbag Disposal Special Tool Required Deployment tool 07HAZ-SG00500 Before scrapping any airbags (including those in a whole vehicle to be scrapped), the airbags must be deployed. If the vehicle is still within the warranty period, the Honda District Service Manager must give approval and/or special instructions before you deploy the airbags (and seat belt tensioners). Only after the airbags (and seat belt tensioners) have been deployed (as the result of vehicle collision, for example), can they be scrapped. If the airbags (and seat belt tensioners) appear intact (not deployed), treat them with extreme caution. Follow this procedure. Deploying Components Out of the Vehicle If an intact airbag or seat belt tensioner has been removed from a scrapped vehicle, or has been found defective or damaged during transit, storage, or service, it should be deployed as follows: 1. Confirm that the special tool is functioning properly by following the check procedure or on the tool label. 2. Position the airbag face up, outdoors on flat ground at least 30 feet (10 meters) from any obstacles or people. 3. Follow steps 8, 9, 10 and 11 of the in-vehicle deployment procedure. Page 253 Relay Box: Diagnostic Aids Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Page 5185 65. Test Tachometer Connector Page 4369 34. ECT Sensor Page 10142 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 8953 - When connecting the wire harness, make sure the connection is secure and the connector (B) is firmly locked into place. - Do not fold over the lower part of the suction filter (C). - When installing the fuel gauge sending unit (A), make sure the connection is secure and the connector is firmly locked into place. Be careful not to bend or twist it excessively. Page 1171 Connectors - "C" Page 968 Refrigerant Pressure Sensor / Switch: Description and Operation A/C Pressure Switch The A/C pressure switch is located in the condenser outlet line where refrigerant is in a high temperature/high pressure liquid state. The switch will sense abnormally high or low pressure, and open the circuit. This removes ground from the PCM, and turns off the compressor. Page 9279 Key Reminder Switch: Electrical Diagrams Lights-on, Key-in, And Seat Belt Reminders Image 73 Page 4542 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 9731 Wires Page 737 Rear Window Defogger - Component Location Index Locations 44. Under Left Side of Dash Page 3000 114. MPI Module Fan Control Relay, High Speed; High Voltage Contactor Relay; Ignition Hold Relay; And MPI Module Fan Control Relay, Low Speed Page 899 Page 4570 Vehicle Speed Sensor: Service and Repair VSS Replacement 1. Disconnect the 3P connector (A) from the VSS (vehicle speed sensor) (B). 2. Remove the mounting bolt, then remove the VSS. 3. Install in the reverse order of removal. Page 7120 Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow from power at the top of the diagram to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another for example is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors Page 2269 35. Tighten the idler pulley bracket mounting bolt. 36. Install the water pump. 37. Install the engine. Page 9525 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 5099 Camshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair Replacement 1. Disconnect connectors from the camshaft position (CMP) sensor A (top dead center (TDC) sensor 1) and CMP sensor B (TDC sensor 2) Remove the CMP sensor A (TDC sensor 1) sensor (A) and the CMP sensor B (TDC sensor 2) sensor (B). 2. Install the CMP sensor A (TDC sensor 1) sensor and the CMP sensor B (TDC sensor 2) using new O-rings (C). Page 9750 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 1148 22. Back-up Light Switch (M/T) Page 8351 2. Install the carpet in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - Make sure the wire harness is routed correctly and clipped into place. - Make sure the connectors are plugged in properly. - Check for damaged or stress-whitened clips, and replace them with new ones. - Reconnect the negative cable to the battery. - Enter the anti-theft code for the radio, then enter the audio presets. - Reset the clock. - Do the ECM idle learn procedure. Page 7121 All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416 etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector or by a capital letter (A, B, C etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Connector Views that shows the connector terminals wire colors connector cavity numbers and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints shown on diagram [8] . Except for the DLC (data link connector) disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554 for example means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Component Locations Relay Box: Component Locations 28. Left Front Side of Engine Compartment 33. Underside of Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box Page 7923 system will not enter the programming mode.) 3. Within 10 seconds, close and open the door two times. 4. Turn the ignition switch to the ACC position and then to the LOCK position three times. Close and open the door. (Complete this process within 10 seconds.) Verify that the power door locks cycle once to confirm that the system is in programming mode. 5. Within 20 seconds, press the "LOCK" button on the transmitter you are programming. Verify that the door locks cycle once. 6. Within 20 seconds, press the "UNLOCK" button on the transmitter. Verify that the door locks cycle once to confirm that the system has accepted the transmitter's code. Turning the Audible Chirp On/Off (1998-99 only) NOTE: On '00-02 Passports, the audible chirp sounds only when you push the LOCK button on the transmitter a second time. 1. Open the driver's door, then insert the key in the driver's door lock. 2. Turn the key to the "LOCK" position, then to the "UNLOCK" position. Repeat this two more times. (Complete this procedure within 10 seconds.) 3. Within 10 seconds, close and open the door two times. 4. Within 10 seconds, turn the key to the "LOCK" position, and then to the "UNLOCK" position, three times. Close and open the door once. Verify that the power door locks cycle once to confirm that the chirp has been turned on/off. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda using normal parts ordering procedures. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery number is CR2016. Each transmitter uses two batteries. Page 445 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: A/T - ATF Cooler Cleaner Information Transmission Cooler: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - ATF Cooler Cleaner Information Use Worm-Style Clamps With the ATF Cooler Cleaner The spring-style clamps used on the ATF cooler lines are made to hold the cooler lines to the ATF cooler under normal operating conditions. The ATF Cooler Cleaner (P/N GHTTTCF6H) uses high pressure (100 psi) to do its job. With the pump motor running, the spring-style clamps can walk off or disconnect, and you'll wind up with a real mess to clean up in your shop. In March of this year, we sent each Honda dealership a pair of high-quality worm-style clamps to replace the original spring-style clamps. These clamps were part of a cooler cleaner update kit, and securely hold the cooler line in place. They've got a blue cap for easy identification. Need some more? Just call G-TFC, Inc. A/T - Vehicle Speed Sensor Installation Precautions Transmission Speed Sensor: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Vehicle Speed Sensor Installation Precautions Install VSS Properly to Avoid Reman A/T Damage We can't emphasize enough how important it is to follow, to the letter, the installation instructions that come with a reman A/T. These instructions help ensure that you avoid damaging the A/T and score a successful repair. This is particularly true when it comes to installing the vehicle speed sensor (VSS). Step 6 of the instructions tells you to make sure its gear is fully engaged and the VSS is fully seated before you tighten the retaining bolt. If you don't install the VSS properly, the speed sensor gear will get stripped and the A/T will be seriously damaged. So don't take risks with your customer's vehicle. Always follow these instructions to the letter. You can rest assured you're doing the job right. Page 7141 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Page 3907 ECM/PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector D (16P) Part 2 Locations Air Bag Control Module: Locations Relay And Control Unit Locations - Dashboard Air Bag Disarming and Arming Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Service and Repair Air Bag Disarming and Arming General Precautions Please read the following precautions carefully before performing the airbag system service. Observe the instructions described or the airbags could accidentally deploy and cause damage or injuries. Except when performing electrical inspections, always turn the ignition switch OFF and disconnect the negative cable from the battery, and wait at least three minutes before beginning work. NOTE: The contents in the memory is not erased even if the ignition switch is turned OFF or the battery cables are disconnected from the battery. Use the replacement parts which are manufactured to the same standards as the original parts and quality. Do not install used SRS parts from another vehicle. Use only new parts when making SRS repairs. Carefully inspect any SRS part before you install it. Do not install any part that shows signs of being dropped or improperly handled, such as dents, cracks or deformation. Before removing any of the SRS parts (including the disconnection of the connectors), always disconnect the SRS connector. Use only a digital multimeter to check the system. If it is not a Honda multimeter, make sure its output is 10 mA (0.01 A) or less when switched to the lowest value in the ohmmeter range. A tester with a higher output could cause accidental deployment and possible injury. Do not put objects on the front passenger's airbag. The original radio has a coded theft protection circuit. Be sure to get the customer's radio code before disconnecting the battery cable. Page 4892 51. Under Left Side of Dash Page 7129 First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 9464 Cavity Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity / terminal shown is # 6. Circuit Schematics Page 1888 Relay Box: Electrical Diagrams Connector-to-Fuse/Relay Box Index Image 6-1 Page 8277 Trunk / Liftgate Switch: Connector Locations 114. Middle of Cargo Area 118. Middle of Hatch Page 4466 Vehicle Speed Sensor: Service and Repair VSS Replacement 1. Disconnect the 3P connector (A) from the VSS (vehicle speed sensor) (B). 2. Remove the mounting bolt, then remove the VSS. 3. Install in the reverse order of removal. Page 7984 Page 7788 Lights-on,key-in,and Seat Belt Reminders Image 73-1 Service Specifications Connecting Rod: Specifications Service Specifications Connecting Rod Pin-to-rod clearance Standard or New .......................................................................................................................................... 0.016 0.033 mm (0.0006 - 0.0013 inch) Service Limit ................................................................................... ...................................................................................... 0.038 mm (0.0015 inch) Small-end bore diameter ............................................................................................................................... 16.981 - 16.994 mm (0.6685 - 0.6891 inch) Large-end diameter Nominal ............................................................................................................................................... ........................................ 39.0 mm (1.54 inch) End play installed on crankshaft Standard or New .................................................................................................................................................. 0.15 0.30 mm (0.006 - 0.012 inch) Service Limit ......................................................................................... .................................................................................... 0.40 mm (0.016 inch) Page 3422 Cylinder Identification Sensor: Service and Repair TDC1/TDC2 Sensors Replacement 1. Disconnect connectors from the TDC1 sensor and TDC2 sensor. Remove the TDC1 sensor (A) and the TDC2 sensor (B). 2. Install the TDC1 sensor and the TDC2 sensor using new O-rings (C). Page 10242 Back Window Glass: Service and Repair Upper Rear Window Replacement Upper Rear Window Replacement NOTE: - Familiarize yourself with the glass replacement process . - Remove the upper rear window and molding as an assembly. If the molding is damaged, replace it as described. Parts Removal Disconnect the upper rear window defogger connectors, and remove these items: - Hatch spoiler trim - Rear window trim - Rear window wiper motor Cutting Positions Slip the piano wire through the adhesive at each position as shown, and pull it back as indicated by the arrows. Page 9531 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. Page 3288 Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow from power at the top of the diagram to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another for example is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors Page 3153 DISCLAIMER Locations A/T - Vehicle Speed Sensor Installation Precautions Transmission Speed Sensor: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Vehicle Speed Sensor Installation Precautions Install VSS Properly to Avoid Reman A/T Damage We can't emphasize enough how important it is to follow, to the letter, the installation instructions that come with a reman A/T. These instructions help ensure that you avoid damaging the A/T and score a successful repair. This is particularly true when it comes to installing the vehicle speed sensor (VSS). Step 6 of the instructions tells you to make sure its gear is fully engaged and the VSS is fully seated before you tighten the retaining bolt. If you don't install the VSS properly, the speed sensor gear will get stripped and the A/T will be seriously damaged. So don't take risks with your customer's vehicle. Always follow these instructions to the letter. You can rest assured you're doing the job right. Starting System - Unable To Key In Ignition Switch Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: Technical Service Bulletins Starting System - Unable To Key In Ignition Switch Can't Turn Ignition Switch? Check for Locked Steering Got a service customer complaining he or she can't turn the ignition switch to start the engine? The reason could just be the steering column lock pin is engaged with the front wheels turned. Here's what typically happens: Some folks use the steering wheel to help support themselves while climbing in or out of the vehicle. This is very common among elderly or disabled drivers. Doing this turns the front wheels, which twists the tires against the ground. The twisted tires apply torque to the steering column. With the ignition switch in LOCK (0), the steering column lock pin is engaged. But the applied torque on the steering column binds the lock pin, making it tough to turn the ignition switch. The ignition switch won't turn to ON (II) if the lock pin isn't disengaged from the steering column. Tell your customer there's nothing wrong with the ignition switch itself. All he or she needs to do is turn the steering wheel from side to side while turning the switch. This usually releases the lock pin so the engine can be started. In some cases, though, your customer may need to give a good tug on the wheel. This could easily happen when parking on a hill and the wheels are turned sharply before the engine is shut off. Page 2859 9. Remove the Intelligent Power Unit (IPU) lid (six Torx bolts and 17 hex bolts). 10. Measure the voltage between the junction board terminals. There should be 10 volts or less. ^ If you have more than 10 volts, there is a problem in the IMA system. Look for and troubleshoot any DTCs before continuing. ^ If you have 10 volts or less, continue to step 11. 11. Lift the foam insert out of the battery module. Page 3809 DTC P0401 thru P0562 Page 9780 All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416 etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector or by a capital letter (A, B, C etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Connector Views that shows the connector terminals wire colors connector cavity numbers and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints shown on diagram [8] . Except for the DLC (data link connector) disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554 for example means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Locations 23. Left Rear of Engine Compartment Page 3995 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. Page 7242 6. Disconnect the jumper wire. 7. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 8. Measure the voltage between the No. 4 terminal of the compressor clutch relay 4P socket and body ground. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 9. NO - Repair open in the wire between the No. 16 fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box and the compressor clutch relay. 9. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 10. Reinstall the compressor clutch relay. 11. Make sure the A/C switch is OFF. 12. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 13. Using the backprobe set, measure the voltage between the No. 17 terminal of ECM connector A (32P) and body ground with the ECM connectors connected. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 14. NO - Repair open in the wire between the compressor clutch relay and the ECM. Page 2662 10. Check for continuity between body ground and BCM module connector terminal A11. Is there continuity? YES- Go to step 11. NO- Repair open in the wire between the BCM module (All) and the low speed battery module fan control relay. 11. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 12. Measure voltage between body ground and the low speed battery module fan control relay 4P connector terminal No. 4. Is there battery voltage? YES- Go to step 13. NO- Check for: ^ A blown No. 24 IMA (7.5 A) fuse ^ A open in the wire between the No. 24 IMA (7.5 A) fuse and the low speed battery module fan control relay. 13. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 14. Check for continuity between body ground and the low speed battery module fan control relay 4P connector terminal No. 1. Is there continuity? YES- Go to step 15. NO- Repair open in the wire between G502 and the low speed motor power inverter module fan control relayed 15. Disconnect the battery module fan 2P connector. Page 3894 ECM Inputs and Outputs at Connector B (25P) Part 2 Page 1425 Clutch Switch: Adjustments Clutch Pedal and Clutch Switch Adjustment NOTE: The clutch is self-adjusting to compensate for wear. - If there is no clearance between the master cylinder piston and push rod, the release bearing is held against the diaphragm spring, which can result in clutch slippage or other clutch problems. 1. Loosen locknut (A), and back off the adjusting bolt (B) until it no longer touches the clutch pedal (C). 2. Loosen locknut (D), and turn the push rod (E) in or out to get the specified stroke (F) and height (G) at the clutch pedal. Clutch Pedal Stroke: 130 - 140 mm (5.12 - 5.51 inch) Clutch Pedal Height: 192 mm (7.56 inch) to the floor 3. Tighten locknut (D). 4. Turn the adjusting bolt (B) in until it contacts the clutch pedal (C). 5. Turn the adjusting bolt (B) in an additional 3/4 to 1 turn. 6. Tighten locknut (A). 7. Loosen locknut (H) and the clutch interlock switch (1). 8. Fully depress the clutch pedal. 9. Release the clutch pedal 15 - 20 mm (0.59 - 0.79 inch) from the fully depressed position, and hold it there. Adjust the position of the clutch interlock switch (1) so that the engine will start with the clutch pedal in this position. 10. Tighten locknut (H). Page 9136 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. Page 4384 Cylinder Identification Sensor: Description and Operation TDC Sensor 1/2 CKP Sensor TDC (Top Dead Center) 1/2 and CKP (Crankshaft Position) Sensors The TDC 1 and TDC 2 sensors detect the position of the No.1 cylinder as a reference for sequential fuel injection to each cylinder. The CKP sensor detects engine speed and determines ignition timing and timing for fuel injection of each cylinder. Page 2751 18. Remove the EPS fuse from the under-hood fusel relay box. 19. With the transmission in neutral and the clutch released, run the engine at 3,500 rpm until the battery level indicator shows at least 50 percent charge. 20. Turn off the engine, then install the EPS fuse. 21. Enter the radio station presets, and set the clock. 22. Center-punch a completion mark above the sixth character of the engine compartment VIN. Locations SRS Components Page 6257 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. Page 3988 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 3227 Relay And Control Unit Locations - Dashboard Page 3297 First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 8753 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 7799 57. Seat Belt Tensioner, Driver's Or Passenger's Page 8724 Wires Page 1861 Cavity Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity / terminal shown is # 6. Circuit Schematics Page 3661 126. Below Right Side of Engine Page 9223 5. Door Switch, Driver's Or Passenger's Page 2293 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 7855 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 624 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Page 9599 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: - Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest OHMS" range. Page 93 Electronic Brake Control Module: Description and Operation ABS Control Unit Main Control The ABS control unit detects the wheel speed based on the wheel sensor signal it received, then it calculates the vehicle speed based on the detected wheel speed. The control unit detects the vehicle speed during deceleration based on the rate of deceleration. The ABS control unit calculates the slip rate of each wheel and transmits the control signal to the modulator unit solenoid valve when the slip rate is high. The pressure reduction control has three modes: pressure reducing, pressure retaining, and pressure intensifying. Self-diagnosis Function 1. The ABS control unit is equipped with a main CPU and a sub-CPU. Each CPU checks the other for problems. 2. The CPUs check the circuit of the system. 3. The ABS control unit turns on the ABS indicator when the unit detects a problem and the unit stops the system. 4. The self-diagnosis can be classified into these two categories: ^ Initial diagnosis ^ Regular diagnosis On-board Diagnosis Function The ABS can be diagnosed with the Honda PGM Tester. The ALB Checker cannot be used with this system. For air bleeding and checking wheel sensor signals, use the Honda PGM Tester. See the Honda PGM Tester user's manual for specific operating instructions. Exploded Views Page 1149 Backup Lamp Switch: Description and Operation Reverse Position Switch (M/T model) The reverse position switch signals the ECM when the transmission is shifted into reverse. Page 10131 First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 8267 113. Below Left Side of Cargo Area Page 10367 50. Right Side of Steering Column Page 824 Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution diagram set to get a more detailed picture of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Page 9392 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. Specifications Engine Oil Pressure: Specifications Oil pump Oil pressure with oil temperature at 176°F (80°C) At idle ................................................................................................................................................... .......................... 70 kPa (0.7 kgf/cm2, 10 psi) At 3,000 rpm ............................................................... .................................................................................................. 340 kPa (3.5 kgf/cm2, 50 psi) Page 8946 3. Using the tool, loosen the fuel pump locknut (A), and remove the fuel pump. 4. Measure the resistance between the No.1 and No.2 terminals with the float at E (EMPTY), 1/2 (HALF FULL), and F (FULL) positions. If you do not get the given readings, replace the fuel gauge sending unit (A). 5. Install the pants in the reverse order of removal with a new base gasket and new quick connect retainers, then check these items: - When connecting the wire harness, make sure the connection is secure and the connector (B) is firmly locked into place. Page 6394 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Page 3644 YES - Replace the clutch switch. NO - Go to step 9. 9. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 10. Disconnect ECM connector B (25P). 11. Check for continuity between ECM connector terminal B14 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Repair short in the wire between the ECM (B14) and the clutch switch. NO - Substitute a known-good ECM and recheck. If symptom/indication goes away, replace the original ECM. See: Testing and Inspection/Initial Inspection and Diagnostic Overview/Diagnostic Strategies 12. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 13. Disconnect the clutch switch 2P connector. 14. Check for continuity between the clutch switch 2P connector terminals No.1 and No.2 with the clutch pedal pressed. Is there continuity? YES - Go to step 15. NO - Adjust the clutch switch. 15. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). Testing and Inspection Radiator Cooling Fan Control Module Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relay Test Normally-open type A: 1. Turn the battery module switch OFF, and measure the voltage. 2. Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is disconnected. A/C compressor clutch relay - Air fuel ratio sensor relay - Condenser fan relay - Daytime running lights relay (Canada) - Headlight relay 1 - Headlight relay 2 - High speed battery module fan control relay - High speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - High voltage conductor control relay - Horn relay - Ignition hold relay - Low speed battery module fan control relay - Low speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - Power window relay - Radiator fan relay - Rear window defogger relay - Reverse relay - Starter cut relay Page 8093 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Page 798 Power Mirror Switch: Testing and Inspection Power Mirror Switch Test/Replacement 1. Remove the instrument panel. 2. Disconnect the 10P connector (A) from the power mirror switch (B). 3. Check for continuity between the terminals in switch position according to the table. 4. If the continuity is not as specified, remove the two screws and replace the switch. Page 433 Engine Control Module: Locations PGM-FI System - Component Location Index Page 5212 116. PGM-FI Main Relay And A/T Reverse Relay (CVT) Service and Repair Front Crankshaft Seal: Service and Repair For further information regarding this component and the system it is a part of, please refer to Cylinder Block Assembly; Service and Repair. Page 4877 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. Page 1540 DIAGNOSTIC WORKSHEET REPAIR PROCEDURE A Page 9597 Door Switch: Diagnostic Aids Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Page 9546 Wires Page 4800 Page 4325 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Page 8624 131. Power Mirror Switch Page 5492 Transmission Speed Sensor: Diagrams 188. CVT Drive Pulley Speed Sensor 189. CVT Driven Pulley Speed Sensor 190. CVT Speed Sensor Page 9949 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 9270 EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Locations 41. Under Left Side of Dash Page 9921 Brake Light Switch: Description and Operation Brake pedal position Switch The brake pedal position switch signals the ECM when the brake pedal is pressed. Page 7849 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. Page 3407 Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Description and Operation ECT (Engine Coolant Temperature) Sensor The ECT sensor is a temperature dependent resistor (thermistor). The resistance of the thermistor decreases as the engine coolant temperature increases. Diagram Information and Instructions Door Switch: Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System Terminal Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown below is #6. Page 750 Power Window Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relay Test Normally-open type A: 1. Turn the battery module switch OFF, and measure the voltage. 2. Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is disconnected. A/C compressor clutch relay - Air fuel ratio sensor relay - Condenser fan relay - Daytime running lights relay (Canada) - Headlight relay 1 - Headlight relay 2 - High speed battery module fan control relay - High speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - High voltage conductor control relay - Horn relay - Ignition hold relay - Low speed battery module fan control relay - Low speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - Power window relay - Radiator fan relay - Rear window defogger relay - Reverse relay - Starter cut relay Page 1802 Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box Component Locations Keyless Entry Module: Component Locations 38. Under Left Side of Dash 43. Under Left Side of Dash (Honda Accessory) Page 1126 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 4951 Wire Color Coding Distinct Of Circuit By Wire Base Color All wires have color-coded insulation. Wires belonging to a system's main harness will have a single color. Wires belonging to a system's sub-circuits will have a colored stripe. Striped wires use the codes found in the chart to show wire size and colors. Abbreviations are used to indicate wire color within a circuit diagram. Wire Color Abbreviations The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics: WHT................................... White YEL................................... Yellow BLK................................... Black BLU................................... Blue GRN................................... Green RED................................... Red ORN................................... Orange PNK................................... Pink BRN................................... Brown GRY................................... Gray PUR................................... Purple LT BLU................................... Light Blue LT GRN................................... Light Green The wire insulation has one color or one color with another color stripe. The second color is the stripe. How to Identify Connector Terminals How to Identify Connector Terminals Page 7301 Radiator And Condenser - Without A/C Image 63-1 Standards and Service Limits Fluid Pan: Specifications Standards and Service Limits Information not supplied by the manufacturer. Page 2415 Water Pump: Service and Repair Replacement 1. Loosen the idler pulley center nut. Turn the adjusting bolt clockwise (counterclockwise for models without A/C compressor), then remove the water pump-A/C compressor belt or water pump belt. 2. Remove the water pump (A) by removing three bolts. 3. Inspect, repair, and clean the O-ring groove and the mating surface on the thermostat housing. 4. Install the water pump, with a new O-ring (B), in the reverse order of removal. 5. Clean the spilled engine coolant. Page 6408 Fuse-to-components Index Image 6 Page 1008 Cavity Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity / terminal shown is # 6. Circuit Schematics Torque Specifications Flywheel: Specifications Torque Specifications Flywheel: Torque ................................................................................................................................................. ................................. 44 Nm (4.5 kgf-cm, 33lbf-ft) Page 7761 Diodes How to Identify Wiring Color-Coded Insulation Wire Color Page 8845 Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Description and Operation SRS Operation SRS Operation The main circuit in the SRS unit senses and judges the force of impact and, if necessary, ignites the inflator charges. If battery voltage is too low or power is disconnected due to impact, the voltage regulator and the back-up power circuit respectively will keep voltage at a constant level. For the SRS to operate: 1. The impact sensor must activate and send electronic signals to the microprocessor. 2. The microprocessor must compute the signals and send them to the airbag inflators (and seat belt tensioners). 3. The inflators must ignite and deploy the airbags (and activate the tensioners). Self-diagnosis System A self-diagnosis circuit is built into the SRS unit; when the ignition switch is turned ON (II), the SRS indicator comes on and goes off after about 6 seconds if the SRS is operating normally. If the indicator does not come on, or does not go off after six seconds, or if it comes on while driving, it indicates an abnormality in the SRS. The SRS must be inspected and repaired as soon as possible. For better serviceability, the memory will store the cause of the malfunction, and the data link circuit passes on information from memory to the data link connector (DLC). This information can be read with the Honda PGM Tester connected to the DLC (16P). Page 6032 16. Measure voltage between the clutch pedal position switch 2P connector terminal No.2 and body ground. Is there about 5 V? YES - Repair open in the wire between the clutch pedal position switch and G402. NO - Repair open in the wire between the ECM (B14) and the clutch pedal position switch. Page 8335 - Weld the damper housing, wheelhouse B, and front damper base. - From passenger compartment side, plug weld the holes in the dashboard lower, wheelhouse B and damper base. Page 3957 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. Component Locations Keyless Entry Module: Component Locations 38. Under Left Side of Dash 43. Under Left Side of Dash (Honda Accessory) Page 9426 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 7708 A battery voltage (B+) circuit which is only powered with the ignition switch in the ON, or START positions. Initiator The electrical component inside the air bag assembly which, when sufficient current flows, sets off the chemical reaction that inflates the air bag. "Initiator Assembly Resistance Test" Tests performed once each ignition cycle when no malfunctions are detected during "Turn-ON" or "Continuous Monitoring." This test checks for the correct SDM configuration for the vehicle, shorts to "Ignition 1 in the deployment loops, high resistance or opens in the "Driver Side High", "Driver Side Low", "Passenger Side High" and "Passenger Side Low" circuits and measures the resistance of the inflator assembly consisting of: 1. Initiators. 2. SRS coil assembly (driver side only). 3. Connectors and associated wiring. Normal Operating Voltage Range The voltage measured between the SDM "Ignition 1" terminals and "Ground" terminals is between 9 and 16 volts. Passenger Current Source An output of the SDM which applies current into the passenger air bag assembly circuit during the "Initiator Assembly Resistance Test". Passenger Air Bag Assembly An assembly located in the right side of the instrument panel consisting of an inflatable bag, an inflator and an initiator. Scan Tool An external computer used to read diagnostic information from on-board computers via the data link connector. SDM Sensing and Diagnostic Module which provides reserve energy to the deployment loops, deploys the air bags when required and performs diagnostic monitoring of all SRS components. Serial Data Information representing the status of the SRS. SRS Supplemental Restraint System. SRS Coil Assembly An assembly of two current-carrying coils in the driver deployment loop that allows the rotation of the steering wheel while maintaining the continuous contact of the driver deployment loop to the driver air bag assembly. SRS Wiring Harness The wires and connectors that electrically connect the components in the SRS. "Turn-ON" Test which the SDM performs on the SRS once during each ignition cycle immediately after "Ignition 1" voltage is applied to the SDM and before "Continuous Monitoring". Page 6740 6. Test-drive the vehicle to make sure it no longer pulls. If the steering wheel is now off-center by more than 2 mm, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE C. 7. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC. NOTE: Enter each reading in decimal degrees. Example 30' = 0.50. REPAIR PROCEDURE C 1. Make sure the steering wheel is centered. ^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the right until it stops. ^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left, and count the number of revolutions until it stops. ^ Divide the number of revolutions in half, and turn the steering wheel until it is centered. For example, if it takes four revolutions of the steering wheel to go from lock to lock, then two turns is centered. ^ If the steering wheel is off-center by a large amount (20 mm or more), it may not be centered on the steering column shaft. Reinstall the steering wheel before going to step 2. 2. Place the vehicle on a lift, turn the steering wheel until it is centered, and then raise the vehicle. 3. Adjust the tie-rods. Use your measurements from question 13 of the test-drive to make your adjustment. Page 2831 IMA Motor: Service and Repair IMA Motor Removal/Installation Special Tools Required Rotor puller (Available for loan from AHM Special Tools) 07YAC-PHM010A The motor rotor contains very strong magnets and should be handled with special care. People with pacemakers or other sensitive medical devices should not handle the motor rotor. WARNING: If the motor rotor is installed by hand, it may suddenly be pulled toward the motor stator with great force causing serious hand or finger injury. Always use the special tool to remove or install a motor rotor. ^ Do not use the rotor motor if the fiberglass band is damaged. If the band breaks during use, magnets may come loose from the motor rotor. ^ Keep the motor rotor away from magnetically sensitive devices. ^ Store the rotor in the designated storage box and hold it away from the sensitive device during storage. ^ Do not blow air near the rotor, as the metal particles get on the magnet. 1. Remove the transmission on vehicle with M/T, the clutch on vehicle with M/T. and the transmission on vehicle with CVT. 2. Remove the stator cover (A). 3. Remove the three of the six bolts (A) as shown. Locations Gauges - Component Location Index Page 6549 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: - Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest OHMS" range. Page 9771 Wire Color Abbreviations Page 3128 DTC P2240 thru U0073 Page 7570 Evaporator Temperature Sensor / Switch: Testing and Inspection Evaporator Temperature Sensor Test 1. Dip the sensor in ice water, and measure the resistance between its terminals. 2. Then pour hot water on the sensor, and check for a change in resistance. 3. Compare the resistance readings with the specifications shown in the graph; the resistance should be within the specifications. Page 8757 5. Connect the connectors to the gauge assembly and make these input tests at the connector. - If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system. - If all the input tests prove OK, replace the printed circuit board in the gauge assembly. Page 6147 27. Remove the No.15 (40 A) fuse (EPS control unit) from the under-hood fuse/relay box. 28. With the transmission in neutral (M/T) or Park (CVT), and the clutch released (Mm, start the engine. Hold the engine speed at 3,500 rpm until the IMA battery level indicator shows at least 50 percent charge. 29. Turn off the engine, and reinstall the No.15 fuse. Disclaimer Locations Heating/Cooling Unit View Page 1609 Idle Speed: Description and Operation Idle Stop Switch (CVT Model) Idle Stop Switch (CVT model) The idle stop switch signals the ECM when the brake pedal is pressed. Motor Power Inverter (MPI) Module Fan Does Not Run Voltage Inverter: Testing and Inspection Motor Power Inverter (MPI) Module Fan Does Not Run Motor Power Inverter (MPI) Module Fan Test Motor Power Inverter (MPI) Module Fan does not run 1. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 2. Remove the cargo floor mat. 3. Turn the battery module switch OFF. 4. Remove the IPU lid. 5. Connect MCM connector terminals AS and body ground with a jumperwire. Does the MPI module fan run? YES- Go to step 6. NO- Go to step 7. 6. Connect MCM connector terminals AD and A7 to body ground with jumper wires. Does the MPI module fan run at high speed? YES- The MPI module fan is OK. NO- Go to step 15. 7. Check the low speed motor power inverter module fan control relay. Is the relay OK ? YES- Go to step 8. NO- Replace the low speed motor power inverter module fan control relay. 8. Disconnect MCM connector A (32P) and the low speed motor power inverter module fan control relay 4P connector. 9. Connect the low speed motor power inverter module fan control relay 4P connector terminal No. 3 and body ground with a jumper wire. Page 7300 Condenser Fan: Electrical Diagrams Radiator And Condenser - With A/C Image 63 Page 5628 Shifter M/T: Service and Repair Shift Lever Assembly Disassembly/Reassembly For further information regarding this component and the system that it is a part of, please refer to Manual Transmission/Transaxle; Service and Repair. Page 9915 Backup Lamp Switch: Testing and Inspection Reverse Position Switch Signal Circuit Troubleshooting M/T model 1. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). Are the back-up lights on when the shift lever is not in reverse position? YES - Inspect the reverse position switch. NO - Go to step 2. 2. Shift the transmission to reverse gear. Do the back-up lights come on? YES - Go to step 3. NO - Go to step 4. 3. Measure voltage between the ECM connector terminal B24 and B20. Is there battery voltage? YES - The reverse position switch signal is OK. NO - Repair open in the wire between the ECM (B24) and the reverse position switch. 4. Inspect the No.27 (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box. Is the fuse OK? YES - Repair open in the wire between the brake switch and the No.27 (7.5 A) fuse. Inspect the reverse position switch. NO - Repair short in the wire between the ECM (B24) and the No.27 (7.5 A) fuse. Replace the No.27 (7.5 A) fuse. Page 7017 7. Remove the self-locking nuts (A) from the top of the damper. 8. Lower the lower arm, and remove the damper assembly (B). Disassembly/Inspection 1. Compress the damper spring with a commercially available strut spring compressor (A) according to the manufacturer's instructions, then remove the self-locking nut (B) while holding the damper shaft (C) with a hex wrench (D). Do not compress the spring more than necessary to remove the nut. 2. Release the pressure from the strut spring compressor, then disassemble the damper as shown in the Exploded View. 3. Reassemble all the parts, except for the spring. 4. Compress the damper assembly by hand, and check for smooth operation through a full stroke, both compression and extension. The damper should extend smoothly and constantly when compression is released. If it does not, the gas is leaking and the damper should be replaced. 5. Check for oil leaks, abnormal noises, and binding during these tests. Reassembly 1. Install the dust cover end inside the top of the dust cover sleeve, and install the dust cover lower mount on the bottom of the dust cover sleeve. 2. Install the bump stop on the damper shaft, then install the set of the dust cover (assembled in step 1) over it. Page 4288 Engine Control Module: Service and Repair ECM/PCM Idle Learn Procedure ECM Idle Learn Procedure The idle learn procedure must be done so that the ECM can learn the engine idle characteristics. Do the idle learn procedure whenever you do any of these actions: - Disconnect the battery. - Replace the ECM or disconnect its connector. - Reset the ECM. NOTE: Erasing DTCs with Honda PGM Tester does require the idle learn procedure to be done again. - Remove the No.18 (7.5 A) fuse from the under-dash fuse/relay box. - Remove the No.2 (80 A) fuse from the under-hood fuse/relay box. - Remove the PGM-FI main relay. - Remove the battery wire from the under-hood fuse/relay box. - Disconnect any of the connectors from the under-hood fuse/relay box. - Disconnect the connector (C103, C502) between the dashborad wire harness and engine wire harness. - Disconnect the G1 terminal from the transmission housing. - Adjust the idle speed. To complete the idle learn procedure do this: 1. Make sure all electrical items (A/C, audio, rear defogger, lights, etc.) are turned off. 2. Start the engine. Hold the engine speed at 3,000 rpm with no load (in Park or neutral) until the radiator fan comes on, or the engine coolant temperature reaches 176 °F (80 °) - 221 °F (100 °). 3. Let the engine idle for about 5 minutes with the throttle fully closed and with all electrical items off. NOTE: If the radiator fan comes on during this step, the time when it is operating must not be included in the 5 minutes. Page 3120 DTC P0563 thru P0748 Page 6844 73. Under Right Side of Kick Panel (M/T) 134. Under Right Side of Kick Panel (CVT) Page 2331 Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution diagram set to get a more detailed picture of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Page 3706 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 5006 All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416 etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector or by a capital letter (A, B, C etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Connector Views that shows the connector terminals wire colors connector cavity numbers and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints shown on diagram [8] . Except for the DLC (data link connector) disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554 for example means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Page 4883 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Locations 14. Top of Transmission Page 5589 Fluid - M/T: Testing and Inspection For further information, refer to Service and Repair. Page 6321 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 166 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Description and Operation Barometric Pressure Sensor: Description and Operation Barometric Pressure (BARO) Sensor The BARO sensor is inside the ECM. It converts atmospheric pressure into a voltage signal that modifies the basic duration of the fuel injection discharge. Page 9265 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 1869 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 4963 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 4745 Diodes How to Identify Wiring Color-Coded Insulation Wire Color Heating & Manual HVAC Cabin Air Filter: Service and Repair Heating & Manual HVAC Dust and Pollen Filter Replacement The dust and pollen filter should be replaced every 15,000 miles (24,000 km) or 12 months whichever comes first. Replace the filter more often if the air flow is less than usual. 1. Remove the filter lid (A) from the heater duct, then remove the dust and pollen filter (B) by pulling it down. 2. Remove the filter (A) from the housing (B), and replace the filter. 3. Install the filter in the reverse order of removal. Page 9264 First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 9430 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 6114 6. Remove the right trunk shelf support (five clips and two bolts). 7. Remove the six mid-frame cover bolts. Remove the intelligent power unit (IPU) lid (17 bolts). 8. Measure the voltage at the junction board terminals. There should be 30 V or less. If you read more than 30 V, there is a problem in the circuit; do the DTC troubleshooting first. 9. Look at the part number on the motor control module (MCM), and refer to this chart. If there is a replacement part number listed for it, you need to order a replacement MCM. 10. Look at the part number on the battery condition monitor (BCM). If the part number is not 1K100-PHM-A01, you need to order a replacement BCM. Page 6537 Fuse: Application and ID Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box Page 251 All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416 etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector or by a capital letter (A, B, C etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Connector Views that shows the connector terminals wire colors connector cavity numbers and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints shown on diagram [8] . Except for the DLC (data link connector) disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554 for example means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Page 5992 Page 7852 First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 9587 Wires Page 8989 Headlamp Reminder Indicator: Electrical Diagrams Lights-on, Key-in, And Seat Belt Reminders Image 73 Page 641 - Taillight relay Starting System - Unable To Key In Ignition Switch Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: Technical Service Bulletins Starting System - Unable To Key In Ignition Switch Can't Turn Ignition Switch? Check for Locked Steering Got a service customer complaining he or she can't turn the ignition switch to start the engine? The reason could just be the steering column lock pin is engaged with the front wheels turned. Here's what typically happens: Some folks use the steering wheel to help support themselves while climbing in or out of the vehicle. This is very common among elderly or disabled drivers. Doing this turns the front wheels, which twists the tires against the ground. The twisted tires apply torque to the steering column. With the ignition switch in LOCK (0), the steering column lock pin is engaged. But the applied torque on the steering column binds the lock pin, making it tough to turn the ignition switch. The ignition switch won't turn to ON (II) if the lock pin isn't disengaged from the steering column. Tell your customer there's nothing wrong with the ignition switch itself. All he or she needs to do is turn the steering wheel from side to side while turning the switch. This usually releases the lock pin so the engine can be started. In some cases, though, your customer may need to give a good tug on the wheel. This could easily happen when parking on a hill and the wheels are turned sharply before the engine is shut off. Locations Timing Component Alignment Marks: Locations Caution: Incorrect removal or installation of the timing chain can result in damage to internal engine components. For complete Timing Chain Removal and Installation information, please refer to Timing Chain; Service and Repair. Page 611 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. Locations Gauges - Component Location Index Campaign - ECM Update Engine Control Module: Recalls Campaign - ECM Update 00-042 April 5, 2000 Applies To: 2000 Insight - From VIN JHMZE1...YT000001 thru JHMZE1...YT000440 Product Update: Insight ECM BACKGROUND The engine may not start it the ambient temperature is below 0°F (-20°C). CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION All owners of affected vehicles will be mailed a notification of this campaign. An example of a customer notification is shown. CORRECTIVE ACTION Replace the ECM (engine control module) with an improved unit. After the ECM replacement, the immobilizer system must be reinitialized. Make sure you have all the customer's keys. Page 9593 Cavity Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity / terminal shown is # 6. Circuit Schematics Page 4189 DTC P0979 thru P1193 Page 6425 Wire Color Abbreviations Page 6451 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. Page 6148 Page 3971 Wires Diagram Information and Instructions Marker Lamp: Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System Terminal Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown below is #6. Page 8028 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. Page 1542 1. Place the vehicle on a commercially available, computerized, four-wheel alignment rack, and record the following measurements. Follow the equipment manufacturer's instructions. NOTE: Enter each reading in decimal degrees. Example 30' = 0.50. 2. If any measurement is out of specification, inspect the front suspension for any damage. Repair any damaged parts before continuing your diagnosis. 3. Determine how the front wheel camber is affecting the pull. Pick the combination of left- and right-front camber that best matches the vehicle you are repairing, then note the camber thrust direction for that combination: NOTE: ^ If the camber of both front wheels is negative, but one wheel is grossly more negative than the other, the camber thrust direction will be opposite the wheel with more negative camber (for example, if the left-front wheel is more negative, the camber thrust direction is right). ^ If the camber of both front wheels is positive, but one wheel is grossly more positive than the other, the camber thrust direction will be the same as the wheel with more positive camber (for example, if the left-front wheel is more positive, the camber thrust direction is left). 4. Determine how the camber needs to be adjusted. 5. Adjust the camber as needed. Front Camber Adjustment, Double Wishbone Suspension Page 10114 Wire Color Abbreviations Locations Power Door Locks - Component Location Index Page 6785 101. EPS Motor Relay Page 7583 Refrigerant Pressure Sensor / Switch: Description and Operation A/C Pressure Switch The A/C pressure switch is located in the condenser outlet line where refrigerant is in a high temperature/high pressure liquid state. The switch will sense abnormally high or low pressure, and open the circuit. This removes ground from the PCM, and turns off the compressor. Page 8897 Connectors - "C" Page 7562 Cabin Temperature Sensor / Switch: Service and Repair In-car Temperature Sensor Replacement 1. Remove the in-car temperature sensor (A) from the dashboard, then disconnect the 2P connector (B) and the air hose (C). Be careful not to damage the sensor or the dashboard. 2. Install the sensor in the reverse order of removal. Be sure to connect the air hose securely. Page 3139 DTC P0750 thru P0977 Page 7338 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. Page 6591 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 9704 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. Page 2400 5. If spark plugs need to be replaced, select the spark plugs according to the designation on the cylinder head and the table shown. 6. Apply a small quantity of anti-seize compound to the plug threads, and screw the plugs into the cylinder head finger-tight. The torque them to 23 N.m (2.3 kgf.m,17 lbf.ft). NOTE: If a spark plug is to be reused, use it in the cylinder where the plug was originally located. Page 677 7. Remove the under-cover (two bolts, two clips, and three screw clips). 8. Remove the IPU (intelligent power unit) lid (six Torx bolts and 17 hex bolts). 9. Measure voltage at the junction board terminals. ^ If the reading is 30 V or less, the capacitors are discharged enough for you to continue; go to step 10. ^ If the reading is more than 30 V, there is a problem with the IMA system. Troubleshoot the system using the IMA section of the service manual, then continue with this procedure. 10. Lift out the battery module foam insert. Page 5000 Splices Components Ground - "G" Page 10314 Wipers/Washers - Component Location Index Locations 19. Rear of Transmission (M/T) Page 876 5. Screw in the brake pedal position switch (A) until its plunger is fully pressed (threaded end (B) is touching the pad (C) on the pedal arm). Then back off the switch 1/4 turn to make 0.3 mm (0.01 inch) of clearance between the threaded end and the pad. Tighten the locknut firmly. Connect the brake pedal position switch connector. Make sure the brake lights go off when the pedal is released. 6. After adjusting the brake pedal position switch, adjust the idle stop switch (D) with the same procedure used in step 5. When finished, start the engine, and make sure the engine stops when the brake pedal is pressed (CVT). Note these items during adjustment: ^ When either the brake pedal position switch or the idle stop switch needs adjusting, both switches must be adjusted together to keep their functions synchronized. Always adjust the brake pedal position switch first, then adjust the idle stop switch; never adjust the switches independently. ^ When the brake pedal is released, the brake pedal position switch is normally open and the idle stop switch is normally closed. 7. Check the brake pedal free play. Page 9373 Diodes How to Identify Wiring Color-Coded Insulation Wire Color Page 560 First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 4232 ECU Module Kit: P/N 06060-PHM-305, H/C 6912901 WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION Operation Number: 118121 Flat Rate Time: 0.8 hour Failed Part: P/N 1K100-PHM-010 H/C 6377170 Defect Code: 5AG Contention Code: L43 Template ID: 01-102A Skill Level: Repair Technician Disclaimer Repair Procedure 1. Write down the radio station presets. 2. Make sure the ignition switch is off, then disconnect the negative cable from the under-hood 12 V battery. 3. Remove the cargo floor mat and the cargo box (see page 20-43 of the 2000 Insight Service Manual). 4. Remove the battery module switch cover, then remove the locking cover from the switch. 5. Turn off the battery module switch. Reinstall the locking cover on the switch, and remove the 5 mm bolt on the side of the switch. 6. Wait at least 5 minutes for the capacitors in the system to discharge. Component Locations Openers - Component Location Index Page 5975 168. ABS Modulator-Control Unit Page 3105 Page 4044 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 8978 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 882 Parking Brake Warning Switch: Testing and Inspection Parking Brake Switch Test 1. Remove the console, and disconnect the connector (A) from the switch (B). 2. Check for continuity between the positive terminal and body ground: ^ With the brake lever up, there should be continuity. ^ With the brake lever down, there should be no continuity. Page 2609 3. Enter the VIN for the vehicle you are working on, then select Search. 4. Review all displayed publications for additional repair information. If you cannot repair the problem with the information provided, select IMA Battery Order. 5. Enter the mileage for the vehicle you are working on, and select Submit to view the IMA Battery Order form. 6. Fill in the IMA Battery Order form. Questions with a red asterisk (*) are required fields that you must answer to submit the form. Make sure the information is complete. This information is critical to the remanufacturing process. Page 4754 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. Page 8740 First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 7052 19. Install the hub bearing unit (A) on the knuckle (B), and tighten the flange bolts (C) to the specified torque. 20. Install the splash guard. NOTE: Replace the splash guard if it is corroded. 21. Press a new hub bearing unit (A) into the hub (B) using the special tools and a press. 22. Install the knuckle/hub/hub bearing unit in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - Use a new spindle nut on reassembly. - Before installing the new spindle nut, apply a small amount of engine oil to the seating surface of the nut. After tightening, use a drift to stake the spindle nut shoulder against the driveshaft. - Tighten all mounting hardware to the specified torque values. - Before installing the hub/hub bearing unit, clean the mating surface of the hub/hub bearing unit and the knuckle. - Before installing the brake disc, clean the mating surface of the hub and the inside of the brake disc. - Before installing the wheel, clean the mating surface of the brake disc and the inside of the wheel. - Set the wheel alignment. Page 4376 29. CKP Sensor Page 3880 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Page 9175 EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 4339 10. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and measure voltage between ECM connector terminals B1 and B20, and between B9 and B20. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 11. NO - Check for an open in the wires between the PGM-FI main relay and the ECM (B1, B9). If the wires are OK, replace the PGM-FI main relay. 11. Turn the ignition switch OFF, then ON (II) again, and measure voltage between ECM connector terminals A15 and B2 within the first two seconds after the ignition switch is turned ON (II). Is there 1.0 V or less? YES - The PGM-FI main relay may be faulty. NO - Update the ECM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM, replace the original ECM. Page 2546 Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Service and Repair ECT Sensor Replacement 1. Disconnect the ECT sensor connector, then remove the ECT sensor (A). 2. Install the ECT sensor using a new O-ring (B). Page 7449 66. Behind Glove Box Air Fuel (A/F) Ratio Sensor Oxygen Sensor: Description and Operation Air Fuel (A/F) Ratio Sensor Air Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor The A/F Sensor operates over a wide air/fuel range. The A/F Sensor is installed in the exhaust manifold. Page 4149 DTC P2240 thru U0073 Locations Idle Air Control Valve: Locations Idle Control System - Component Location Index 9. Front of Engine Page 5319 Clutch Disc: Service and Repair Clutch Disc and Pressure Plate Installation Clutch Disc and Pressure Plate Installation Special Tools Required ^ Clutch alignment shaft 07JAF-PM7012A ^ Remover handle 07936-3710100 ^ Ring gear holder 07LAB-PV00100 or 07924-PD20003 ^ Driver 07749-0010000 ^ Attachment, 32 x 35 mm 07746-0010100 1. Temporarily install the clutch disc onto the splines of the transmission mainshaft. Make sure the clutch disc slides freely on the mainshaft. 2. Install the special tool (A). 3. Apply Super High Temp Urea Grease (P/N 08798-9002) to the splines (B) of the clutch disc (C), then install the clutch disc using the special tools. 4. Install the pressure plate (A) and the mounting bolts (B), finger-tight. Page 1582 TOOL INFORMATION Centering Tape (enough to diagnose 240 vehicles): T/N O7AAJ-001A300 Steering Drift Set Level: T/N 07AAJ-00100 Steering Drift Set: T/N O7MJ-001A140 Replacement Weight for Steering Drift Set: T/N 07AAJ-001A400 WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Failed Part: P/N 53560-SDA-AO1 H/C 7139652 Defect Code: 07406 Symptom Code: 03602 Skill Level: Repair Technician Diagnostic Trouble Code: To create the 15-digit DTC, see the applicable repair procedure. Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. TOOL DESCRIPTIONS The holding force gauge measures the amount of pull on the vehicle. It is a bracket that counts as one weight, plus five removable weights. Page 2429 12. Remove the water outlet. Installation 13. Clean and dry the cylinder head mating surfaces. 14. Apply liquid gasket, part No. 08718-0009, to the cylinder head mating surface of the water outlet. NOTE: Apply a 1 mm - 2.5 mm wide bead of liquid gasket. 15. Install the water rattle 16. Install the CMP sensor A (TDC sensor 1) and the CMP sensor B (TDC sensor 2). Locations Power Window Relay: Locations Power Window Page 7074 Wheels: Description and Operation Replacement wheels or tires must be equivalent to the originals in load capacity, specified dimension and mounting configuration. Improper size or type may affect bearing life, brake performance, speedometer/odometer calibration, vehicle ground clearance and tire clearance to the body and chassis. All model are equipped with metric sized tubeless steel belted radial tires. Correct tire pressures and driving habits have an important influence on tire life. Heavy cornering, excessively rapid acceleration and unnecessary sharp braking increase premature and uneven wear. Page 3881 EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 1252 Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Locations 17. Rear of Engine Capacity Specifications Refrigerant: Capacity Specifications Refrigerant Capacity 1.10 - 1.20 lbs (US) Page 5889 Page 3234 Terminals - "T" Shielding Switches Fuses Locations Alarm/Immobilizer Control Unit: Locations Relay And Control Unit Locations - Dashboard 44. Under Left Side of Dash (Honda Accessory) Page 6219 - Taillight relay A/T - Vehicle Speed Sensor Installation Precautions Transmission Speed Sensor: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Vehicle Speed Sensor Installation Precautions Install VSS Properly to Avoid Reman A/T Damage We can't emphasize enough how important it is to follow, to the letter, the installation instructions that come with a reman A/T. These instructions help ensure that you avoid damaging the A/T and score a successful repair. This is particularly true when it comes to installing the vehicle speed sensor (VSS). Step 6 of the instructions tells you to make sure its gear is fully engaged and the VSS is fully seated before you tighten the retaining bolt. If you don't install the VSS properly, the speed sensor gear will get stripped and the A/T will be seriously damaged. So don't take risks with your customer's vehicle. Always follow these instructions to the letter. You can rest assured you're doing the job right. Page 831 First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 407 DTC P1679 thru P1860 Locations Relay And Control Unit Locations - Dashboard Specifications Page 9378 Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution diagram set to get a more detailed picture of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Page 2369 Idle Speed: Testing and Inspection Idle Stop Switch Signal Circuit Troubleshooting CVT model 1. Check the idle stop switch position. Is the position OK? YES - Go to step 2. NO - Check the idle stop switch adjustment. 2. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 3. Press the brake pedal. 4. Measure voltage between the ECM connector terminals A31 and B20. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 5. NO - Go to step 7. 5. Release the brake pedal. 6. Measure voltage between ECM connector terminals A31 and B20. Is voltage less than 1.0 V? YES - Idle Stop Switch signal is OK. NO - Go to step 14. 7. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 8. Disconnect the Idle Stop Switch switch 2P connector. 9. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). Page 6615 Wire Color Abbreviations Page 95 ABS Control Unit Inputs and Outputs for 25P Connector Page 6517 Page 1004 Splices Components Ground - "G" Page 9435 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. Page 6043 Neutral Safety Switch: Description and Operation Neutral Position Switch (M/T model) The neutral position switch signals the ECM when the transmission is shifted out of neutral. Locations Shift Indicator: Locations Component Location Index Page 3818 DTC P2240 thru U0073 Page 2349 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Locations Relay And Control Unit Locations - Dashboard Page 5567 8. Install the special tool, then torque the flywheel mounting bolts in a crisscross pattern in several steps. Page 897 Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Locations 17. Rear of Engine Page 6626 Relay Box: Diagnostic Aids Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Page 2874 High/Bypass Contactor Control Relay: Testing and Inspection High Voltage Contractor Control Relay Normally-Open Type A 1. Turn the battery module switch OFF, and measure the voltage. 2. Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No.3 and No.4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals when power is disconnected. Page 7955 DVD Player: Technical Service Bulletins Audio/Navigation/RES - Warr. Exchange/Non-Warr Repair 06-001 February 26, 2010 Applies To: 1998 and Later Models - ALL Audio, Navigation, and RES Unit In-Warranty Exchange and Out-of-Warranty Repair (Supersedes 06-601, dated March 4, 2009, to revise the information marked by the black bars and asterisks) *REVISION SUMMARY Under OUT-OF-WARRANTY REPAIR, the address for Pioneer Electronics Service was changed.* COVERAGE This bulletin applies to all Honda audio units, CD players/changers, cassette tape players, navigation units, and rear entertainment system (RES) units, both in warranty and out of warranty. COMPONENT REPLACEMENT POLICY Use only remanufactured components for warranty repairs on customer vehicles. Follow the warranty information and procedures given in this service bulletin. ^ Remanufactured audio, navigation, and RES units are not available for non-warranty repairs. ^ Use new components to repair new, unsold vehicles. ^ A new component may be used to repair a customer's vehicle only if the remanufactured component is currently unavailable from American Honda. ^ You must receive authorization from your District Parts and Service Manager (DPSM) before ordering a new component. WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Operation Number: From the Flat Rate Manual Flat Rate Time: From the Flat Rate Manual Failed Part: Use the RM part number from the repair order without the RM (example: 08A06-341-110) Defect Code: From the Flat Rate Manual Symptom Code: From Audio Customer Contention Codes in the Flat Rate Manual Part used for repair: Use the RM part number from the repair order (example: 08A06-341-110RM) IN-WARRANTY DIAGNOSIS Service Advisor: Interview the customer to get as much information as possible. Information like where and when the problem occurs is vital to your diagnosis. This information also helps you to determine if the audio, navigation, or RES system is operating normally, or if a problem exists. Write the complaint on the repair order. NOTE: For CD/DVD related problems, you must verify if the customer used discs with adhesive labels. Service Technician: Page 8378 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 4016 Wire Color Abbreviations Page 10290 50. Right Side of Steering Column Service and Repair Cowl Moulding / Trim: Service and Repair Cowl Cover Replacement NOTE: - Take care not to scratch the body. - Use a clip remover to remove the clips. 1. Remove the windshield wiper arms . 2. Release all the clips (A), and remove the rear hood seal (B). 3. Release all the clips (C, D), and remove the cowl cover (E). 4. Install all removed parts in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - Check for damaged or stress-whitened clips, and replace them with new ones. - Push the clips into place securely. Page 1111 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 6919 First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 3137 DTC P0401 thru P0562 Locations Knock Sensor: Locations PGM-FI System - Component Location Index Locations 19. Rear of Transmission (M/T) Page 3779 ^ If you still cannot hear the solenoid valve click or feel it tap when activated, continue with normal troubleshooting. 15. Insight only: Disconnect the PGM Tester, and return the vehicle to your customer. 16. All other affected models: Use the PGM Tester to run the EVAP system function test (see S/B 02-007, EVAP System Function Testing and Diagnostics With the PGM Tester). ^ If the EVAP system passes the function test, disconnect the PGM Tester, and return the vehicle to your customer. ^ If the EVAP system fails the function test, continue with normal troubleshooting. Disclaimer Page 8407 Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Service and Repair Connector Disconnection / Connection Disconnecting System Connectors Before removing the airbag or SRS related devices (the SRS unit, the cable reel and the seat belt tensioner connector), disconnecting connectors from SRS related devices, or removing the dashboard or the steering column, disconnect the airbag connectors and seat belt tensioner connectors to prevent accidental deployment. Turn the ignition switch OFF, disconnect the negative cable from the battery, and wait at least 3 minutes before beginning the following procedures. - Before disconnecting the SRS unit connector A (18P) (A) from the SRS unit, disconnect both airbag 2P connectors (C, D) and both seat belt tensioner 2P connectors (E, F). - Before disconnecting the cable reel 2P connector (B), disconnect the driver's airbag 2P connector (C). 1. Disconnect the battery negative cable, and wait at least three minutes. Driver's Airbag 2. Remove the access panel from the steering wheel, then disconnect the driver's airbag 2P connector (A) from the cable reel. Passenger's Airbag Page 7 50. Right Side of Steering Column Page 8671 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 7019 3. Position the damper bottom on the knuckle, install the damper pinch bolts (A) and nuts (B), and lightly tighten the bolts. 4. Connect the stabilizer link to the damper, and lightly tighten the nut. 5. Place a jack with a wood block under the lower arm ball joint, and raise the suspension to load the suspension. 6. Tighten the flange nuts on the top of the damper to the specified torque. 7. Tighten the damper pinch bolts to the specified torque. 8. Connect the stabilizer link to the damper, and tighten the flange nut (A) while holding the joint pin (B) with a hex wrench (C). 9. Connect the tie-rod to the steering arm, and tighten the nut (A) to the specified torque. Install the cotter pin (B) after tightening, and bend its end as shown. 10. Install the brake hose bracket and the flange bolt to the damper, and tighten the bolt to the specified torque. 11. Install the front wheel. Clean the mating surface of the brake disc and the inside of the wheel before installing. 12. Set the wheel alignment. Page 4244 70. Right Side of Floor 95. Left Side of PCU (PCU Removed) Page 1261 126. Below Right Side of Engine Page 8467 Programming the Transmitter 1. Locate the security system control unit under the driver's seat. 2. Rub your finger over the label on the top of the control unit until you find the depression. Once you find it, push your finger through the label to expose the hole underneath. Inside the hole is a square, yellow button; this is the programming button. 3. Turn the ignition switch to ON, then turn it to LOCK. 4. Press and hold the programming button. Check that the security siren emits four separate chirps followed by a five-chirp burst. This confirms that the system is in programming mode. The siren then emits prompting chirps at 3-second intervals. 5. Release the programming button. 6. After a prompting chirp, press the "LOCK" button on the transmitter. Verify that the siren emits a confirmation chirp to confirm that the transmitter's code was accepted by the control unit. If you wait more than 30 seconds after the prompting chirp before programming a transmitter, or wait more than 30 seconds between programming transmitters, the siren emits three chirps and the system exits the programming mode. 7. To program additional transmitters, wait for another prompting chirp, then press the "LOCK" button. (You can program up to four transmitters per vehicle.) 8. To exit the programming mode, turn the ignition switch to ON, then turn it to LOCK. 9. Test all the transmitters. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda using normal parts ordering procedures. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery number is 23-144 (Radio Shack), A-23 (Eveready), or MS-21/MN-21 (Duracell). Each transmitter uses one battery. Page 155 First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 2664 23. Check for continuity between body ground and BCM module connector terminal A24. Is there continuity? YES- Go to step 24. NO- Repair open in the wire between the BCM module (A24) and the high speed battery module fan control relay 24. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 25. Measure voltage between body ground and the high speed battery module fan control relay 4P connector terminal No. 4. Is there battery voltage? YES- Go to step 26. NO- Check for: ^ A blown No. 24 IMA (7.5 A) fuse. ^ An open in the wire between the No. 24 IMA (7.5 A) fuse and the low speed battery module relay. 26. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 27. Check for continuity between body ground and the high speed battery module fan control relay 4P connector terminal No. 1. Is there continuity? YES- Go to step 28. NO- Repair open in the wire between G502 and the high speed motor power inverter module fan control relay. 28. Disconnect the battery module fan 2P connector. Locations Parking Brake Warning Switch: Locations Gauges - Component Location Index Page 4841 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. Page 4416 Knock Sensor: Service and Repair Replacement 1. Remove the throttle body. 2. Disconnect the knock sensor connector, then remove the knock sensor. 3. Install the knock sensor. 4. Install the throttle body. Page 2031 EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 2287 All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416 etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector or by a capital letter (A, B, C etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Connector Views that shows the connector terminals wire colors connector cavity numbers and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints shown on diagram [8] . Except for the DLC (data link connector) disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554 for example means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Page 458 ECM Inputs and Outputs at Connector A (32P) Part 1 Page 3012 Battery Current Sensor: Diagrams 78. Battery Current Sensor 92. MPI Module Current Sensor Page 1886 174. Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box Part 2 Page 5610 Mainshaft: Service and Repair For further information regarding this component and the system that it is a part of, please refer to Manual Transmission/Transaxle; Service and Repair. Page 1347 95. VSS Page 5347 Clutch Switch: Adjustments Clutch Pedal and Clutch Switch Adjustment NOTE: The clutch is self-adjusting to compensate for wear. - If there is no clearance between the master cylinder piston and push rod, the release bearing is held against the diaphragm spring, which can result in clutch slippage or other clutch problems. 1. Loosen locknut (A), and back off the adjusting bolt (B) until it no longer touches the clutch pedal (C). 2. Loosen locknut (D), and turn the push rod (E) in or out to get the specified stroke (F) and height (G) at the clutch pedal. Clutch Pedal Stroke: 130 - 140 mm (5.12 - 5.51 inch) Clutch Pedal Height: 192 mm (7.56 inch) to the floor 3. Tighten locknut (D). 4. Turn the adjusting bolt (B) in until it contacts the clutch pedal (C). 5. Turn the adjusting bolt (B) in an additional 3/4 to 1 turn. 6. Tighten locknut (A). 7. Loosen locknut (H) and the clutch interlock switch (1). 8. Fully depress the clutch pedal. 9. Release the clutch pedal 15 - 20 mm (0.59 - 0.79 inch) from the fully depressed position, and hold it there. Adjust the position of the clutch interlock switch (1) so that the engine will start with the clutch pedal in this position. 10. Tighten locknut (H). Page 4278 ECM/PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector A (32P) Part 2 Page 9501 - Taillight relay Page 9212 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: Page 6609 Relay Box: Connector Locations Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box Page 3763 DTC P0401 thru P0562 Page 2304 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. Locations 36. Left Side of Dash Page 4492 In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locater) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: - Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. Page 2459 Radiator Cooling Fan Motor: Service and Repair Radiator and Fan Replacement 1. Drain the engine coolant. 2. Remove the upper and lower radiator hoses. 3. Disconnect the fan motor connector. 4. Remove the harness clamps, and remove the bulkhead, then pull up the radiator. 5. Remove the fan shroud assembly and other parts from the radiator. 6. Install the radiator in the reverse order of removal. Make sure the upper and lower cushions are set securely. 7. Fill the radiator with engine coolant and bleed the air. Page 7515 Splices Components Ground - "G" Page 6127 27. Remove the No.15 (40 A) fuse (EPS control unit) from the under-hood fuse/relay box. 28. With the transmission in neutral (M/T) or Park (CVT), and the clutch released (Mm, start the engine. Hold the engine speed at 3,500 rpm until the IMA battery level indicator shows at least 50 percent charge. 29. Turn off the engine, and reinstall the No.15 fuse. Disclaimer Page 1023 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Page 1293 10. Middle of Engine Page 6949 Steering Gear: Service and Repair Steering Gearbox Replacement Replacement Note these items during removal: Using solvent and a brush, wash any oil and dirt off the gearbox. Blow dry with compressed air. - Be sure to remove the steering wheel before disconnecting the steering joint. Damage to the cable reel can occur. 1. Write down the frequencies for the radio preset buttons. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. 2. Raise the vehicle, and make sure it is securely supported. 3. Remove the front wheels. 4. Remove the driver's airbag. 5. Remove the steering wheel. 6. Remove the steering joint bolts (A), and disconnect the steering joint by moving the steering joint (B) toward the column. 7. Remove the battery box (A} and front damper base beam (B). Page 843 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Page 2969 11. Use the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) with version 1.011.014 or later software to clear any set DTCs. 12. Reinstall the IPU lid and the mid-frame cover bolts. Torque the bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb-ft). 13. Reinstall the right trunk shelf support. Torque the bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb-ft). 14. Remove the battery module switch locking cover, and flip the switch to ON. Reinstall the locking cover. 15. Reinstall the battery module switch cover. 16. Reinstall the cargo floor mat. 17. Return the vehicle to your customer. Advise your customer that it is OK to drive the vehicle as is until the replacement parts arrive, but the vehicle will have reduced power (no IMA assist). 18. Order a battery module and, if needed, a BCM, an MCM, or both. REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Remove the battery module from the vehicle (see page 12-113 of the service manual). (In ISIS, use the keyword BAT MOD, and select Battery Module Removal/Installation from the list.) 2. Remove the lifting tool from the battery module. 3. Remove the mounting bolts for the MCM and the BCM (eight total). Unplug the electrical connectors (five for the MCM and three for the BCM), then remove the modules. 4. Install the MCM and the BCM in the new battery module. Use the original MCM and BCM if no replacement was needed; otherwise, use the appropriate replacement parts. Torque the mounting bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb-ft). 5. Install the lifting tool on the battery module. 6. With someone to help you, carefully lift the battery module into the vehicle, and set it down into position. Remove the lifting tool. 7. Plug in the connectors, and install the Y condenser harness. Then install the mounting bolts. Torque the bolts to 24 N.m (17 lb-ft). 8. Install the battery module air duct. Torque the bolt to 9.8 N~m (7.2 lb-ft). 9. Connect the high voltage cables to the junction board. Torque the bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb-ft). 10. Install the front and rear IPU braces and the mid-frame. Torque the bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb-ft). 11. Install the foam inserts. Page 3170 Engine Control Module: Locations PGM-FI System - Component Location Index Page 2289 Variable Valve Timing Actuator: Diagnostic Aids Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Page 5776 Wheel Speed Sensor: Service and Repair WHEEL SENSOR REPLACEMENT NOTE: Install the sensors carefully to avoid twisting the wires. Page 9140 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Door Lock Actuator/Driver's Power Door Lock Actuator: Testing and Inspection Door Lock Actuator/Driver's Driver's Door Lock Actuator Test 1. Remove the driver's door panel. 2. Disconnect the 2P connector (A) from the actuator (B). 3. Check actuator operation by connecting power and ground according to the table. To prevent damage to the actuator, apply battery voltage only momentarily. 4. If the actuator does not operate as specified, replace it. Page 4709 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Page 8037 EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 806 Power Trunk / Liftgate Lock Switch: Testing and Inspection Hatch Opener Switch Test 1. Open the hatch and remove the hatch trim panel. 2. Disconnect the 2P connector (A) from the hatch opener switch. 3. Check for continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals. - With the switch lever pulled, there should be continuity. - With the switch lever released, there should be no continuity. 4. If the continuity check is not as specified, replace the switch. Page 2869 91. Motor Current Sensor Page 5780 5. Refill the master cylinder reservoir to the MAX (upper) level line. Page 5960 Brake Booster Vacuum Sensor: Description and Operation Brake Booster Pressure Sensor System Diagram The brake booster pressure sensor converts brake booster vacuum into an electrical input to the ECM. Page 378 DTC P0750 thru P0977 Engine - Oil Recommendation GF-4 Standard Engine Oil: Technical Service Bulletins Engine - Oil Recommendation GF-4 Standard SOURCE: Honda Service News TITLE: Use ONLY New GF-4 Standard Engine Oil APPLIES TO: All Models SERVICE TIP: There's a new performance standard for engine oil: GF-4. It was jointly developed by automotive and oil experts, and it represents a significant performance upgrade and improvement in fuel economy. GF-4 engine oils must pass grueling tests totaling over 500 hours. On top of this, Honda Genuine engine oils are also tested to ensure specific compatibility with Honda vehicles. GF-4 engine oil is compatible with all current and earlier model year Honda cars and trucks. It also provides these added benefits: - Improved oxidation resistance (reduced thickening of the oil) - Improved deposit protection and better wear protection - Better low-temperature performance over the life of the oil - Environmental protection by extending the life of emissions systems While Honda has upgraded its engine oil to GF-4, other brands may not yet be at this new standard. Keep in mind you must use Honda Genuine engine oil for all warranty repairs. If you use some other brand of oil for non-warranty repairs, make sure that oil meets the GF-4 standard. We recommend you stop using non-GF-4 engine oils and check with your supplier that you're purchasing GF-4 oil. Engine oil produced after April 1, 2005, that meets the GF-4 standard, must post this starburst certification mark on the container. Always look for this mark; some oil container labels won't specifically refer to GF-4. Locations Turn Signal/Hazard Flasher - Component Location Index Page 8614 77. Rear of Driver's Door Page 1067 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. Page 570 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. Page 3102 7. Remove the rear clips from the middle bulkhead carpet. 8. Remove the under-cover (two bolts, two clips, and three screw clips). 9. Remove the intelligent power unit (I PU) lid (six Torx bolts and 17 hex bolts). 10. Measure the voltage between the junction board terminals. There should be 10 V or less. ^ If you have more than 10 V, there's a problem in the MA system. Look for and troubleshoot any DTCs before continuing. ^ If you have 10 V or less, continue to step 11. Campaign - ECM Update Engine Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins Campaign - ECM Update 00-042 April 5, 2000 Applies To: 2000 Insight - From VIN JHMZE1...YT000001 thru JHMZE1...YT000440 Product Update: Insight ECM BACKGROUND The engine may not start it the ambient temperature is below 0°F (-20°C). CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION All owners of affected vehicles will be mailed a notification of this campaign. An example of a customer notification is shown. CORRECTIVE ACTION Replace the ECM (engine control module) with an improved unit. After the ECM replacement, the immobilizer system must be reinitialized. Make sure you have all the customer's keys. Page 1027 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. Page 4603 37. EVAP Canister Vent Shut Valve Page 540 Page 7116 Terminals - "T" Shielding Switches Fuses Page 2917 23. Check for continuity between body ground and the high speed motor power inverter module fan control relay 4P connector terminal No. 2. Is there continuity? YES- Substitute a known-good MCM and MPI module fan, and recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away, replace the original MCM and the MPI module fan. NO- Check for: ^ An open in the wire between the motor power inverter module fan control resistor and the high speed motor power inverter module fan relay. ^ An open in the wire between the motor power inverter module fan control resistor and the MPI module fan. ^ An open in the wire between the MPI module fan control resistor and G502. ^ Replace the motor power inverter module fan control resistor. Page 9174 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Page 7718 Child Seat Tether Attachment: Service and Repair Child Seat Tether Anchor Removal/Installation An attachment point is provided for a passenger's-seat-mounted child restraint system that uses a top tether. The attachment point is located on right side of the rear trim panel, just behind the passenger's seat-back. The child seat tether anchor is installed on the right side of the rear trim panel. The anchor is covered by the child seat tether anchor cover. NOTE: - Do not remove the toothed washer from the child seat tether anchor. Use the anchor with the toothed washer attached to it. - When installing a child seat on the passenger's seat, follow the instructions of the manufacturer of the child seat. Page 8304 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. Page 10019 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 7787 Seat Belt Reminder Lamp: Electrical Diagrams Lights-on, Key-in, And Seat Belt Reminders Image 73 Page 10263 Fastener (body side) Installation/Body Primer Application Attach the fasteners with adhesive tape. Glass Primer and Adhesive Application Locations Throttle Position Sensor: Locations PGM-FI System - Component Location Index Page 4211 DTC P0563 thru P0748 Page 9337 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. Page 7758 Connectors - "C" Page 6012 Parking Brake Warning Switch: Diagrams 13. Parking Brake Switch 13. Parking Brake Switch Page 8788 EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 2041 Variable Valve Timing Solenoid: Testing and Inspection VTEC Solenoid Valve Test 1. Remove the engine cover. 2. Disconnect the 1P connector from the VTEC solenoid valve. 3. Measure resistance between the terminal and body ground. 4. If the resistance is within specifications, remove the VTEC solenoid valve assembly (A) from the cylinder head, and check the VTEC solenoid valve filter/O-ring (B) for clogging. If there is clogging, replace the engine oil filter and the engine oil. Page 3934 Splices Components Ground - "G" Page 4048 Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Description and Operation PGM-FI Main Relay The PGM-FI main relay contains two separate relays. One is energized whenever the ignition is on which supplies battery voltage to the ECM, power to the fuel injectors, and power for the fuel cut relay. The fuel cut relay is energized to supply power to the fuel pump for 2 seconds when the ignition is switched ON (II), and when the engine is running. Page 3200 ECM Inputs And Outputs At Connector C (31P) Part 2 Windshield Wipers - Blade Care & Replacement Wiper Blade: Technical Service Bulletins Windshield Wipers - Blade Care & Replacement SOURCE: Honda Service News TITLE: Windshield Wiper Blade Care and Replacement APPLIES TO: All models SERVICE TIP: A buildup of road film, oil, or grease on the windshield or the wiper blades can cause the wiper blades to smear, streak, or chatter when being used. If your customers complain of this problem, and their wiper blades are less than 6 months old, try doing this before you replace the blades: - Use Glass Cleaner or equivalent, to thoroughly clean the windshield. Make sure you clean it well enough so that water slides off of it, not just beads up. - Use Windshield Washer Concentrate Cleaner & Antifreeze straight from the bottle on a soft cloth to clean the wiper blades. This stuff contains a wetting agent that conditions the blade rubber. If the wiper blades still smear, streak, or chatter after you've cleaned the windshield and the blades, then blade replacement is in order. When you remove the old blade from its holder, make sure you grab the locking end of the blade on its top and bottom (use your thumb and index finger for this). Tug on the blade until it releases, then slide it off the holder. Don't grab the locking end from the sides. The metal rails could come loose and you could also wind up with a nasty cut. If the new blades don't have rails, make sure you install the rails from the old blades on the new blades like this: If the old rails are curved: - Install them on the new driver's-side wiper blade with the ends bowing away from the windshield. This makes the blade press harder against the middle of the windshield, providing a clear center of vision for the driver. - Install them on the new passenger's side wiper blade with the ends bowing toward the windshield. This makes the blade press harder against the edges of the windshield to clear off any water at the upper and lower ends of each wiper pass. If the old rails lie flat: Install them on either new wiper blade. If one of the new blades is shorter than the other (this is common on many vehicles), just install the shorter blade on the driver's side. Page 7294 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. Page 4697 First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Locations Wiper Switch: Locations Wipers/Washers - Component Location Index Page 3147 DTC U0100 thru U1288 Disclaimer Page 73 5. Reconnect the 18P connector to the keyless door lock control unit, and make these input tests at the connector. - If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system. - If all the input tests prove OK, the control unit must be faulty; replace the keyless door lock control unit. Page 1156 Brake Light Switch: Description and Operation Brake pedal position Switch The brake pedal position switch signals the ECM when the brake pedal is pressed. Suspension - Drifting & Pulling At Highway Speeds Alignment: All Technical Service Bulletins Suspension - Drifting & Pulling At Highway Speeds SOURCE: Honda Service News September 2003 TITLE: Drifting and Pulling at Highway Speeds APPLIES TO: All Models SERVICE TIP: Got a customer complaining that the vehicle drifts or pulls when driving at highway speeds? Use this handy procedure to diagnose and repair the problem. NOTE: Before doing the procedure in this article, check ISIS for related S/Bs and other S/N articles for the model you're working on. 1. Check if your customer has original equipment wheels and tires and that the ride height hasn't been modified. - If the wheels, tires, and ride height are OK, go to step 2. - If the wheels or tires aren't original equipment or the ride height was modified, stop here. Aftermarket wheels or tires or a ride height that's been modified pose challenges that this article doesn't cover. Resolve these issues with your customer before going further. 2. Set the tire pressures to the recommended cold inflation values listed on the doorjamb sticker. 3. Find a straight stretch of 4-lane road where you can safely (and legally) go 60 mph for several minutes. Ideally, you want a road that's perfectly flat, but most roads have a crown that¡C■s anywhere from 1.5° to 1.75° so they can drain. Flat Road - While driving at 60 mph, use a stopwatch to time how long it takes to drift one full lane from center to center. Record the time. Repeat this, driving in the opposite direction to cancel the effects of wind, then average the two times you recorded. If the vehicle drifts one full lane from center to center in less than 6 seconds, go to step 4. If not, return the vehicle to your customer. Crowned Road - While driving at 60 mph, check if the vehicle climbs the crown. Do this for both a left- and right-crowned road. A drift to the right on a right-crowned road and a drift to the left on left-crowned road are considered normal. If the vehicle climbs the crown or it drifts to the right on a left crowned road, go to step 4. 4. Record the original toe, camber, and caster readings. On Passports, set the ride height to spec if needed. Refer to Ride Height Adjustment in S/B 99-043, Steering Wheel Shimmy or Chassis Vibration. 5. Loosen the subframe mounting bolts, and move the rear beam (it¡C■s the entire front subframe on some models) to get the maximum amount of caster and equal side-to-side camber. (As little as 0.4° of camber stagger can cause the vehicle to pull.) 6. Make sure the steering wheel is centered, then set the front and rear toe to the maximum toe-in spec. (Toe-in improves vehicle stability and reduces the tendency to drift or pull.) 7. Test-drive the vehicle on the same road you used earlier. - If the drift is now within spec, return the vehicle to your customer. - If the drift is still out of spec, go to step 8. 8. Swap the front and rear tires on each side of the vehicle, then adjust the tire pressures to the recommended cold inflation values listed on the doorjamb sticker. 9. Test-drive the vehicle on the same road you used earlier. - If the drift is now within spec, swap each rear tire back to the front, one at a time, and test-drive the vehicle on the same road you used earlier. Replace the bad tire, then return the vehicle to your customer. - If the drift is still out of spec after swapping the front and rear tires, go to step 10. 10. Test-drive a known-good donor vehicle on the same road you used earlier, and check its pull. 11. Swap all four tires from the donor vehicle with the tires on your customer¡C■s vehicle. Page 8914 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 63 156. Keyless Door Lock Control Unit Testing and Inspection Radiator Cooling Fan Control Module Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relay Test Normally-open type A: 1. Turn the battery module switch OFF, and measure the voltage. 2. Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is disconnected. A/C compressor clutch relay - Air fuel ratio sensor relay - Condenser fan relay - Daytime running lights relay (Canada) - Headlight relay 1 - Headlight relay 2 - High speed battery module fan control relay - High speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - High voltage conductor control relay - Horn relay - Ignition hold relay - Low speed battery module fan control relay - Low speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - Power window relay - Radiator fan relay - Rear window defogger relay - Reverse relay - Starter cut relay Page 9428 First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 41 Alarm/Immobilizer Control Unit: Connector Views 115. Immobilizer Receiver Unit 181. Security Control Unit (Honda Accessory) Page 6650 Connector-to-Fuse/Relay Box Index Image 6-4 Page 4899 Splices Components Ground - "G" Page 7531 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Locations Page 7385 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. Page 706 40. Upper Left Kick Panel Area Testing and Inspection Ambient Light Sensor: Testing and Inspection Lights-on, Key-in, Seat Belt Reminder, Key Light Timer, Indicator/Reminder Systems 1. Remove the gauge assembly. 2. Disconnect the gauge assembly 30P connector A and 22P connector B. 3. Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are making good contact. - If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system. - If the terminals are OK, go to step 4. 4. With the connectors still disconnected, make these input tests at the connector. Page 2829 IMA Motor: Description and Operation IMA Motor The motor is a synchronous AC type that serves three functions: it converts kinetic energy into electrical energy, it assists the engine during acceleration, and it starts the engine. The motor is located between the engine and the transmission. It consists of a three-phase coil stator and a permanent magnet rotor that is directly connected to the engine crankshaft. Three commutation sensors are mounted inside the housing to detect the position of the rotor. MCM (Motor Control Module) The MCM controls the amount of assist that the motor produces and the amount of regenerative power that the motor absorbs based on input from the ECM and the BCM. The MCM convents 144 V DC power into three-phase AC power required during assist, and converts AC power into DC power during regeneration. The MCM also communicates with the PGM tester via the 16P data link connector for better serviceability. If any sensors or circuits in the IMA system are abnormal, the MCM turns on the IMA system indicator to warn the driver that there is a problem. Page 9707 First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 8878 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Locations 7. Front of Engine Page 6390 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 749 40. Upper Left Kick Panel Area Page 8503 75. In Driver's Door (Passenger's Similar) Locations Page 1199 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 4138 DTC P0A94 thru P0157 Page 3249 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 2360 Fuel Pressure: Service Precautions WARNING: Adhere to the following procedures any time the fuel system is being worked on in order to reduce the risk of fire and personal injury: - Keep a dry chemical (Class B) fire extinguisher near the work area. - Place a "CAUTION FLAMMABLE" sign in the work area. - Work in a well-ventilated area. Do not smoke, and keep sparks and open flames away. - Wear eye protection. - Use caution when working near the catalytic converter to prevent the possibility of burns or fire. (The temperatures within the converter can exceed 537 °C (1000 °F). - Relieve the fuel system pressure prior to disconnecting fuel system components. - Disconnect the negative battery cable except for tests where battery voltage is required. - Use a suitable container to store or catch fuel. - Do not replace fuel pipe with fuel hose. - Plug all disconnected fuel line fittings and hoses. - After making any fuel system repairs ALWAYS inspect for fuel leaks. Page 6115 11. Use the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) with version 1.011.014 or later software to clear any set DTCs. 12. Reinstall the IPU lid and the mid-frame cover bolts. Torque the bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb-ft). 13. Reinstall the right trunk shelf support. Torque the bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb-ft). 14. Remove the battery module switch locking cover, and flip the switch to ON. Reinstall the locking cover. 15. Reinstall the battery module switch cover. 16. Reinstall the cargo floor mat. 17. Return the vehicle to your customer. Advise your customer that it is OK to drive the vehicle as is until the replacement parts arrive, but the vehicle will have reduced power (no IMA assist). 18. Order a battery module and, if needed, a BCM, an MCM, or both. REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Remove the battery module from the vehicle (see page 12-113 of the service manual). (In ISIS, use the keyword BAT MOD, and select Battery Module Removal/Installation from the list.) 2. Remove the lifting tool from the battery module. 3. Remove the mounting bolts for the MCM and the BCM (eight total). Unplug the electrical connectors (five for the MCM and three for the BCM), then remove the modules. 4. Install the MCM and the BCM in the new battery module. Use the original MCM and BCM if no replacement was needed; otherwise, use the appropriate replacement parts. Torque the mounting bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb-ft). 5. Install the lifting tool on the battery module. 6. With someone to help you, carefully lift the battery module into the vehicle, and set it down into position. Remove the lifting tool. 7. Plug in the connectors, and install the Y condenser harness. Then install the mounting bolts. Torque the bolts to 24 N.m (17 lb-ft). 8. Install the battery module air duct. Torque the bolt to 9.8 N~m (7.2 lb-ft). 9. Connect the high voltage cables to the junction board. Torque the bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb-ft). 10. Install the front and rear IPU braces and the mid-frame. Torque the bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb-ft). 11. Install the foam inserts. Specifications Differential: Specifications For Specifications Please Page 6916 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. Page 1849 Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box Page 6695 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. Page 1971 Wire Color Abbreviations Page 9418 Cavity Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity / terminal shown is # 6. Circuit Schematics Page 5879 Brake Caliper: Service and Repair Disassembly and Reassembly Overhaul CAUTION: Frequent inhalation of brake pad dust, regardless of material composition, could be hazardous to your health. ^ Avoid breathing dust particles. ^ Never use an air hose or brush to clean brake assemblies. Use an OSHA-approved vacuum cleaner. NOTICE: To avoid damage, do not strike aluminum parts with a metal hammer. If necessary, tap gently with a plastic-tipped hammer. NOTE: Nuts and bolts with the mark are special corrosion-resistant Dacro fasteners. Use the same type if replacement is necessary. Remove, disassemble, inspect, reassemble, and install the caliper, and note these items: ^ Do not spill brake fluid on the vehicle; it may damage the paint; if brake fluid gets on the paint, wash it off immediately with water. ^ To prevent dripping, cover disconnected hose joints with rags or shop towels. ^ Clean all parts in brake fluid and air dry; blow out all passages with compressed air. ^ Before reassembling, check that all parts are free of dirt and other foreign particles. ^ Replace parts with new ones as specified in the illustration. ^ Make sure no dirt or other foreign matter gets into the brake fluid. ^ Make sure no grease or oil gets on the brake discs or pads. ^ When reusing pads, always reinstall them in their original positions to prevent loss of braking efficiency. ^ Do not reuse drained brake fluid. ^ Always use Honda DOT 3 Brake Fluid. Non-Honda brake fluid can cause corrosion and shorten the life of the system. ^ Coat the piston, piston seal groove, and caliper bore with clean brake fluid. ^ Replace all rubber parts with new ones. ^ After installing the caliper, check the brake hose and line for leaks, interference, and twisting. Page 2302 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. Page 2544 34. ECT Sensor Page 6477 Terminals - "T" Shielding Switches Fuses Testing and Inspection Ambient Light Sensor: Testing and Inspection Lights-on, Key-in, Seat Belt Reminder, Key Light Timer, Indicator/Reminder Systems 1. Remove the gauge assembly. 2. Disconnect the gauge assembly 30P connector A and 22P connector B. 3. Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are making good contact. - If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system. - If the terminals are OK, go to step 4. 4. With the connectors still disconnected, make these input tests at the connector. Page 6218 Starter Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relay Test Normally-open type A: 1. Turn the battery module switch OFF, and measure the voltage. 2. Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is disconnected. A/C compressor clutch relay - Air fuel ratio sensor relay - Condenser fan relay - Daytime running lights relay (Canada) - Headlight relay 1 - Headlight relay 2 - High speed battery module fan control relay - High speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - High voltage conductor control relay - Horn relay - Ignition hold relay - Low speed battery module fan control relay - Low speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - Power window relay - Radiator fan relay - Rear window defogger relay - Reverse relay - Starter cut relay Page 2212 Oil Filter: Service and Repair Replacement Special Tools Required Oil filter wrench 07HAA-PJ70100 1. Remove the splash shields. 2. Remove the oil filter with the special oil filter wrench. 3. Inspect the threads (A) and rubber seal (B) on the new filter. Wipe off the seat on the engine block, then apply a light coat of oil to the filter rubber seal. Use only filters with a built-in bypass system. 4. Install the oil filter by hand. 5. After the rubber seal seats, tighten the oil filter clockwise with the special tool. Tighten: 3/4 turn clockwise. Tightening torque: 12 Nm (1.2 kgf-cm, 8.7 ft. lbs.) 6. If four marks (v to vvvv) are printed around the outside of the filter, use the following procedure to tighten the filter. ^ Spin the filter on until its seal lightly seats against the engine oil cooler, and note which number is at the bottom. ^ Tighten the filter by turning it clockwise three marks from the one you noted. For example, if the v Mark is at the bottom when the seal is seated, tighten the filter until the center of the vvvv mark comes around to the bottom. 7. After installation, fill the engine with oil up to the specified level, run the engine for more than three minutes, then check for oil leakage. SRS Components Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Description and Operation SRS Components SRS Components The SRS is a safety device which, when used in conjunction with the seat belt, is designed to help protect the driver and passenger in a frontal impact exceeding a certain set limit. The system consists of the SRS unit, including a safing sensor and an impact sensor (A), the cable reel (B), the driver's airbag (C) and the passenger's airbag (D). The seat belt tensioner (E) is linked with the SRS airbags to further increase the effectiveness of the seat belt. In a front-end collision, the tensioner instantly retracts the belt firmly to secure the occupants in their seats. Page 6839 101. EPS Motor Relay Page 4988 Fuel Shut-off Solenoid Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relay Test Normally-open type A: 1. Turn the battery module switch OFF, and measure the voltage. 2. Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is disconnected. A/C compressor clutch relay - Air fuel ratio sensor relay - Condenser fan relay - Daytime running lights relay (Canada) - Headlight relay 1 - Headlight relay 2 - High speed battery module fan control relay - High speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - High voltage conductor control relay - Horn relay - Ignition hold relay - Low speed battery module fan control relay - Low speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - Power window relay - Radiator fan relay - Rear window defogger relay - Reverse relay - Starter cut relay - Taillight relay Page 1065 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. Page 8377 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 3961 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. General Precautions Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Service Precautions General Precautions General Precautions Please read the following precautions carefully before performing the airbag system service. Observe the instructions described or the airbags could accidentally deploy and cause damage or injuries. Except when performing electrical inspections, always turn the ignition switch OFF and disconnect the negative cable from the battery, and wait at least three minutes before beginning work. NOTE: The contents in the memory is not erased even if the ignition switch is turned OFF or the battery cables are disconnected from the battery. Use the replacement parts which are manufactured to the same standards as the original parts and quality. Do not install used SRS parts from another vehicle. Use only new parts when making SRS repairs. Carefully inspect any SRS part before you install it. Do not install any part that shows signs of being dropped or improperly handled, such as dents, cracks or deformation. Before removing any of the SRS parts (including the disconnection of the connectors), always disconnect the SRS connector. Use only a digital multimeter to check the system. If it is not a Honda multimeter, make sure its output is 10 mA (0.01 A) or less when switched to the lowest value in the ohmmeter range. A tester with a higher output could cause accidental deployment and possible injury. Do not put objects on the front passenger's airbag. The original radio has a coded theft protection circuit. Be sure to get the customer's radio code before disconnecting the battery cable. Page 7256 - Taillight relay Page 4740 Wire Color Abbreviations Page 902 Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Service and Repair ECT Sensor Replacement 1. Disconnect the ECT sensor connector, then remove the ECT sensor (A). 2. Install the ECT sensor using a new O-ring (B). Specifications Engine Oil Pressure: Specifications Oil pump Oil pressure with oil temperature at 176°F (80°C) At idle ................................................................................................................................................... .......................... 70 kPa (0.7 kgf/cm2, 10 psi) At 3,000 rpm ............................................................... .................................................................................................. 340 kPa (3.5 kgf/cm2, 50 psi) Locations 47. Steering Wheel (Airbag Removed) Page 10194 Power Window Switch: Diagrams 119. Window Switch, Passenger's 138. Power Window Switch, Master Page 3293 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: - Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest OHMS" range. Page 9222 5. Door Switch, Driver's Or Passenger's Service and Repair Towing Information: Service and Repair Towing If the vehicle needs to be towed, call a professional towing service. Never tow the vehicle behind another vehicle with just a rope or chain. It is very dangerous. Flat-bed Equipment - The operator loads the vehicle on the back of a truck. This is the best way of transporting the vehicle. To accommodate flat-bed equipment, the vehicle is equipped with a towing hook and tie down hook slots. The towing hook can be used with a winch to pull the vehicle onto the truck, and the tie down hook slots can be used to secure the vehicle to the truck. Towing Hook Installation 1. Remove the cover (A) from the front bumper. 2. Remove the towing hook (B) from the tool kit. 3. Screw the towing hook into the bolt hole (C) in the bumper, and tighten it securely by hand. Wheel Lift Equipment - The tow truck uses two pivoting arms that go under the tires (front or rear) and lifts, them off the ground. The other two wheels remain on the ground. Sling-type Equipment - The tow truck uses metal cables with hooks on the ends. These hooks go around parts of the frame or suspension and the cables lift that end of the vehicle off the ground. The vehicle's suspension and body can be seriously damaged. This method of towing is unacceptable. If the vehicle cannot be transported by flat-bed, it should be towed with the front wheels off the ground. If due to damage, the vehicle must be towed with the front wheels on the ground, shift the transmission into neutral. Manual Transmission - Release the parking brake. - Shift the transmission into neutral. CVT - Release the parking brake. - Start the engine. Page 3857 11. Lift out the battery module foam insert. 12. Remove the mounting bolts for the battery condition monitor (BCM) module and the motor control module (MCM). Disconnect the electrical connectors, then remove the modules. 13. Install the new BCM and MCM. Make sure all module connectors are secure. 14. Install the IPU lid. 15. Remove the locking cover from the battery module switch, install the 5 mm bolt, turn the switch on, reinstall the locking cover, and install the battery module switch cover. 16. Install the remaining parts in the reverse order of removal. 17. Reconnect the negative cable to the under-hood 12 V battery. Page 7128 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. Page 2863 Motor Control Module (MCM): Diagrams 173. MCM Part 1 Page 5947 Page 3865 9. Connect the PGM Tester to the data link connector (DLC). 10. Use the PGM Tester to program the customer's immobilizer key codes into the ECM. Verity that all the keys will start the engine. 11. Center-punch a completion mark above the first character (J) of the engine compartment VIN. Disclaimer Page 3104 18. Remove the EPS fuse from the under-hood fusel relay box. 19. With the transmission in neutral and the clutch released, run the engine at 3,500 rpm until the battery level indicator shows at least 50 percent charge. 20. Turn off the engine, then install the EPS fuse. 21. Enter the radio station presets, and set the clock. 22. Center-punch a completion mark above the sixth character of the engine compartment VIN. Component Locations Fuse: Component Locations Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box Part 1 Diagram Information and Instructions License Plate Lamp: Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System Terminal Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown below is #6. Locations Safing Sensor: Locations The safing sensor is located inside the SRS Unit, refer to SRS Unit / Service and Repair. Page 1991 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Diagram Information and Instructions Audible Warning Device: Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System Terminal Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown below is #6. Diagram Information and Instructions Transmission Shift Position Indicator Lamp: Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System Terminal Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown below is #6. Page 4490 Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution diagram set to get a more detailed picture of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Page 2864 173. MCM Part 2 Page 6579 Multiple Junction Connector: Diagrams 141. C104 (Junction Connector) 159. C507 (Junction Connector) Locations Data Link Connector: Locations SRS - Component Location Index Page 7124 In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locater) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: - Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. Page 9152 Wire Color Abbreviations Page 8369 Console Lamp: Diagnostic Aids Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Page 3303 EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 9889 Relay And Control Unit Locations - Dashboard Specifications Page 2161 9. With the specified air pressure applied and the piston at TDC, move the primary rocker arm (A). The primary rocker arm and secondary rocker arm (B) should move together. If the primary and secondary rocker arms do not move together, replace the rocker arms as a set. 10. Remove the special tools. Specifications Page 7123 Air Door Actuator / Motor: Diagnostic Aids Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Locations Compressor Clutch Relay: Locations Climate Control - Component Location Index Page 6124 7. Remove the under-cover (two bolts, two clips, and three screw clips). 8. Remove the IPU (intelligent power unit) lid (six Torx bolts and 17 hex bolts). 9. Measure voltage at the junction board terminals. ^ If the reading is 30 V or less, the capacitors are discharged enough for you to continue; go to step 10. ^ If the reading is more than 30 V, there is a problem with the IMA system. Troubleshoot the system using the IMA section of the service manual, then continue with this procedure. 10. Lift out the battery module foam insert. Page 1026 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. Page 8258 Trunk / Liftgate Lock Cylinder: Testing and Inspection Hatch Key Cylinder Switch Test 1. Open the hatch and remove the rear trim panel. 2. Disconnect the 3P connector (A) from the key cylinder switch (B). 3. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table. 4. If the continuity is not as specified, replace the switch. Page 6840 Power Steering Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relay Test Normally-open type B: EPS Motor Relay 1. Turn the battery module switch OFF, and measure the voltage. 2. Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 3 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 2 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 3 terminals when power is disconnected. Page 5138 114. MPI Module Fan Control Relay, High Speed; High Voltage Contactor Relay; Ignition Hold Relay; And MPI Module Fan Control Relay, Low Speed Page 7963 ^ Online, enter keyword AUDIO, NAVI, or RES, and select the appropriate removal procedure from the list. NOTE: If the customer's media (CD, CD magazine, DVD, DVD-A, cassette tape, navigation DVD, etc.) is stuck in the unit, leave it there. The manufacturer will remove and return it. 3. Obtain an Out-of-Warranty/New Replacement component repair form, and complete the Technician section.To obtain the form, do this: ^ On ISIS, click on Technical Library, then click on Job Aids. ^ Select the applicable form from the list, and print it out: - Out-of-Warranty/New Replacement Audio System Component Repair Form - Out-of-Warranty/New Replacement Navigation System Component Repair Form - Out-of-Warranty/New Replacement Rear Entertainment System Component Repair Form Parts Manager: 4. Complete the parts manager's section of the Out-of-Warranty/New Replacement component repair form. Make sure you include your name, department, and dealership phone number on the form. 5. Identify the manufacturer. Units sent to the wrong manufacturer may not be shipped back within the usual 5-7 days. ^ Look for the number code on the face of the unit. ^ If the unit has no number code on its face, check the label on the unit housing, and compare the first two or three letters of the radio reference number (or the audio unit model number) to this list: Alpine - CM, CD, MR, or MF Clarion - PH Fujitsu Ten - CE or SD Panasonic - CQ or CR Pioneer KEH or DEH 6. Contact the manufacturer (see step 9) to request an estimate for the cost of the repair plus shipping. 7. Complete the required paperwork: ^ Paying by check - Make a dealership check out to the manufacturer for the cost of repair and return shipping. Make sure to include the check number on the form. NOTE: For all Panasonic products, make your check out to Komtec Electronics. ^ Paying by credit card (Visa or Mastercard only) - When you use a credit card, fill in all of these fields on the component repair form: - Credit card number - Credit card expiration date Page 2749 7. Remove the rear clips from the middle bulkhead carpet. 8. Remove the under-cover (two bolts, two clips, and three screw clips). 9. Remove the intelligent power unit (I PU) lid (six Torx bolts and 17 hex bolts). 10. Measure the voltage between the junction board terminals. There should be 10 V or less. ^ If you have more than 10 V, there's a problem in the MA system. Look for and troubleshoot any DTCs before continuing. ^ If you have 10 V or less, continue to step 11. Page 9611 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. Page 8943 Fuel Gauge Sender: Locations Fuel Supply System - Component Location Index Page 4882 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Page 5976 Electronic Brake Control Module: Description and Operation ABS Control Unit Main Control The ABS control unit detects the wheel speed based on the wheel sensor signal it received, then it calculates the vehicle speed based on the detected wheel speed. The control unit detects the vehicle speed during deceleration based on the rate of deceleration. The ABS control unit calculates the slip rate of each wheel and transmits the control signal to the modulator unit solenoid valve when the slip rate is high. The pressure reduction control has three modes: pressure reducing, pressure retaining, and pressure intensifying. Self-diagnosis Function 1. The ABS control unit is equipped with a main CPU and a sub-CPU. Each CPU checks the other for problems. 2. The CPUs check the circuit of the system. 3. The ABS control unit turns on the ABS indicator when the unit detects a problem and the unit stops the system. 4. The self-diagnosis can be classified into these two categories: ^ Initial diagnosis ^ Regular diagnosis On-board Diagnosis Function The ABS can be diagnosed with the Honda PGM Tester. The ALB Checker cannot be used with this system. For air bleeding and checking wheel sensor signals, use the Honda PGM Tester. See the Honda PGM Tester user's manual for specific operating instructions. Page 1642 Spark Plug: Service and Repair Spark Plug Inspection/Replacement 1. Remove the spark plugs, and note which cylinder each one came from. 2. Inspect the electrodes and ceramic insulator. Burned or worn electrodes may be caused by: Advanced ignition timing - Loose spark plug - Insufficient cooling Fouled plug may be caused by: Retarded ignition timing - Oil in combustion chamber - Incorrect spark plug gap - Excessive idling/low speed running - Clogged air cleaner element - Deteriorated ignition coil 3. Do not adjust the gap of iridium tip plugs (A); replace the spark plug if the gap is out of specification. Electrode Gap: Standard (New): 1.0 - 1.1 mm (0.039 - 0.043 in.) Service Limit: 1.3 mm (0.051 in.) 4. Replace the plug at the specified interval, or if the center electrode is rounded (A). Page 1193 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. Locations 10. Middle of Engine Page 3268 Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Testing and Inspection Power Relay Test Power Relay Test Normally-open type A: 1. Turn the battery module switch OFF, and measure the voltage. 2. Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is disconnected. A/C compressor clutch relay - Air fuel ratio sensor relay - Condenser fan relay - Daytime running lights relay (Canada) - Headlight relay 1 - Headlight relay 2 - High speed battery module fan control relay - High speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - High voltage conductor control relay - Horn relay - Ignition hold relay - Low speed battery module fan control relay - Low speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - Power window relay - Radiator fan relay - Rear window defogger relay - Reverse relay - Starter cut relay - Taillight relay Page 7451 Power Transistor HVAC: Testing and Inspection Power Transistor Test 1. Disconnect the 3P connector from the power transistor. 2. Carefully release the lock tab on the No. 2 terminal (BLU/RED) (A) in the 3P connector, then remove the terminal and insulate it from body ground. 3. Connect a 1.2 - 3.4 W bulb (B) between the No. 1 and the No. 2 cavity on the 3P connector. 4. Reconnect the 3P connector to the power transistor. 5. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and check that the blower motor runs. - If the blower motor runs, replace the heater control panel. - If the blower motor does not run, replace the power transistor. Diagram Information and Instructions Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System Terminal Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown below is #6. Page 6641 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. Page 5482 130. Transmission Housing (CVT) Page 9132 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 3356 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. Page 8749 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. Page 7325 In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locater) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: - Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. Airbag Deployment and Disposal Air Bag: Service and Repair Airbag Deployment and Disposal Deploying the Airbags/Tensioner (Inside Vehicle) Airbag Disposal Special Tool Required Deployment tool 07HAZ-SG00500 Before scrapping any airbags (including those in a whole vehicle to be scrapped), the airbags must be deployed. If the vehicle is still within the warranty period, the Honda District Service Manager must give approval and/or special instructions before you deploy the airbags (and seat belt tensioners). Only after the airbags (and seat belt tensioners) have been deployed (as the result of vehicle collision, for example), can they be scrapped. If the airbags (and seat belt tensioners) appear intact (not deployed), treat them with extreme caution. Follow this procedure. Deploying Airbags In the Vehicle If an SRS equipped vehicle is to be entirely scrapped, its airbags (and seat belt tensioners) should be deployed while still in the vehicle. The airbags (and seat belt tensioners) should not be considered as salvageable parts and should never be installed in another vehicle. 1. Turn the ignition switch OFF, disconnect the battery negative cable, and wait at least 3 minutes. 2. Confirm that each airbag and each seat belt tensioner is securely mounted. 3. Confirm that the special tool is functioning properly by following the check procedure on the tool label. Driver's Airbag: 4. Remove the access panel (A), then disconnect the driver's airbag 2P connector (B) from the cable reel. Passenger's Airbag: 5. Remove the glove box, then disconnect the passenger's airbag 2P connector (A) from the floor wire harness. Seat Belt Tensioner: Page 1071 5. Door Switch, Driver's Or Passenger's Page 6738 1. Place the vehicle on a commercially available, computerized, four-wheel alignment rack, and record the following measurements. Follow the equipment manufacturer's instructions. NOTE: Enter each reading in decimal degrees. Example 30' = 0.50. 2. If any measurement is out of specification, inspect the front suspension for any damage. Repair any damaged parts before continuing your diagnosis. 3. Determine how the front wheel camber is affecting the pull. Pick the combination of left- and right-front camber that best matches the vehicle you are repairing, then note the camber thrust direction for that combination: NOTE: ^ If the camber of both front wheels is negative, but one wheel is grossly more negative than the other, the camber thrust direction will be opposite the wheel with more negative camber (for example, if the left-front wheel is more negative, the camber thrust direction is right). ^ If the camber of both front wheels is positive, but one wheel is grossly more positive than the other, the camber thrust direction will be the same as the wheel with more positive camber (for example, if the left-front wheel is more positive, the camber thrust direction is left). 4. Determine how the camber needs to be adjusted. 5. Adjust the camber as needed. Front Camber Adjustment, Double Wishbone Suspension Page 5541 Wheel Bearing: Testing and Inspection Wheel Bearing End Play Inspection 1. Raise the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper location. Remove the wheels. On the rear, remove the fender skirts before removing the wheels. 2. Install suitable flat washers (A) and wheel nuts, and tighten the nuts to the specified torque to hold the brake disc or drum securely against the hub. Front Rear 3. Set up the dial gauge against the hub flange as shown, and measure the bearing end play while moving the brake disc or drum inward and outward. Bearing end play: Standard: Front/Rear: 0 - 0.05 mm (0 - 0.002 inch) 4. If the bearing end play is more than the standard, replace the wheel bearing. Locations Power Window Relay: Locations Power Window Page 6663 Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box Locations Fuel Pump Relay: Locations Fuel Supply System - Relay Locations Page 8779 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. Master Switch Replacement Power Window Switch: Service and Repair Master Switch Replacement Master Switch Test/Replacement 1. Remove the instrument panel. 2. Disconnect the 14P connector (A) from the power window master switch (B). 3. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table. Driver's Switch: The driver's switch is combined with the control unit, so you cannot isolate the switch to test it. Instead, run the master switch input test procedures. If the tests are normal, the driver's switch must be faulty. 4. If the continuity is not as specified, remove the three screws and replace the switch. Page 823 All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416 etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector or by a capital letter (A, B, C etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Connector Views that shows the connector terminals wire colors connector cavity numbers and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints shown on diagram [8] . Except for the DLC (data link connector) disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554 for example means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Page 7212 Relay And Control Unit Location - Engine Compartment Page 6430 Diodes How to Identify Wiring Color-Coded Insulation Wire Color Page 4242 9. Connect the PGM Tester to the data link connector (DLC). 10. Use the PGM Tester to program the customer's immobilizer key codes into the ECM. Verity that all the keys will start the engine. 11. Center-punch a completion mark above the first character (J) of the engine compartment VIN. Disclaimer Page 7144 Air Door Actuator / Motor: Description and Operation Air Delivery The air mix and mode control motors each receive inputs from the control panel. The air mix motor regulates the mixture of cold and hot air by varying the position of the heater door. The mode control motor controls the direction and volume of outlet air. The air flow can be directed to the dashboard vents or the corner vent on the passenger's side. Both the air mix control motor and mode control motor are grounded by the control panel. The recirculation control motor receives battery voltage through fuse 16 when the ignition switch is in ACC (I) or ON (II). It regulates the position of the fresh/recirc door, and is controlled by two position inputs from the control panel ("Recirc" and "Fresh"). Refer to the HVAC system for specific tests and troubleshooting procedures. Page 4878 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. Locations 47. Steering Wheel (Airbag Removed) Page 3408 Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Service and Repair ECT Sensor Replacement 1. Disconnect the ECT sensor connector, then remove the ECT sensor (A). 2. Install the ECT sensor using a new O-ring (B). Control Unit Input Test Key Reminder Switch: Testing and Inspection Control Unit Input Test Lights-on, Key-in, Seat Belt Reminder, Key Light Timer, Indicator/Reminder Systems 1. Remove the gauge assembly. 2. Disconnect the gauge assembly 30P connector A and 22P connector B. 3. Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are making good contact. - If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system. - If the terminals are OK, go to step 4. Page 1905 NO - Repair short in the wire between the No.1 (50 A) fuse and the under-dash fuse/relay box. Also replace the No.1 (50 A) fuse. 10. Try to start the engine. Does the engine start? YES - Go to step 11. NO - Go to step 14. 11. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 12. Connect ECM connector terminal A18 to body ground with a jumper wire. 13. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). Is the MIL on? YES - Update the ECM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM, replace the original ECM. NO - Check for an open in the wire between the ECM (A18) and the gauge assembly. Also check for a blown MIL bulb. If the wires and the bulb are OK, replace the gauge assembly. 14. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 15. Inspect the No.7 (15 A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box. Is the fuse OK? YES - Go to step 22. NO - Go to step 16. 16. Remove the blown No.7 (15 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box. 17. Remove the PGM-FI main relay (IGP). 18. Check for continuity between body ground and the PGM-FI main relay (IGP) 4P connector terminal No.2. Is there continuity? YES - Repair short in the wire between the No.7 (15 A) fuse and the PGM-FI main relay (IGP). Also replace the No.7 (15 A) fuse. Page 3336 Terminals - "T" Shielding Switches Fuses Page 4751 Fuel Pump Relay: Diagnostic Aids Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Page 3065 ^ If you still cannot hear the solenoid valve click or feel it tap when activated, continue with normal troubleshooting. 15. Insight only: Disconnect the PGM Tester, and return the vehicle to your customer. 16. All other affected models: Use the PGM Tester to run the EVAP system function test (see S/B 02-007, EVAP System Function Testing and Diagnostics With the PGM Tester). ^ If the EVAP system passes the function test, disconnect the PGM Tester, and return the vehicle to your customer. ^ If the EVAP system fails the function test, continue with normal troubleshooting. Disclaimer Page 10305 Windshield Washer Motor: Diagrams 56. Washer Motor, Rear Window 73. Washer Motor, Windshield Page 2263 7. Remove the engine oil cooler bypass hoses. 8. Remove the oil pan. 9. Remove the oil screen, then remove the oil pump assembly. 10. Remove the cam chain. Page 9813 Wire Color Abbreviations Page 5735 Transmission Speed Sensor: Diagrams 188. CVT Drive Pulley Speed Sensor 189. CVT Driven Pulley Speed Sensor 190. CVT Speed Sensor Battery Module Fan Test Battery Module: Service and Repair Battery Module Fan Test Battery Module Fan Does Not Run Battery Module Fan Test Battery Module Fan does not run. 1. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 2. Remove the cargo floor mat. 3. Turn the battery module switch OFF. 4. Remove the IPU lid. 5. Connect the BCM module connector terminal All and body ground with a jumper wire, and turn the ignition switch ON (II). Does the battery module fan run? YES-Go to step 6. NO-Go to step 7. 6. Connect the BCM module connector terminal A24 and body ground with a jumper wire. Does the battery module fan run at high speed? YES- Battery module fan is OK. NO- Go to step 20. 7. Check the low speed battery module fan control relay. Is the relay OK? YES- Go to step 8. NO- Replace the battery module. 8. Disconnect BCM module connector A (26P) and the low speed battery module fan control relay 4P connector. 9. Connect the low speed battery module fan control relay 4P connector terminal No. 3 and body ground with a jumper wire. Page 6211 10. Check with an ohmmeter that no continuity exists between the commutator (A) and armature coil core (B), and between the commutator and armature shaft (C). If continuity exists, replace the armature. Starter Brush Inspection 11. Measure the brush length. If it is not within the service limit, replace the brush holder assembly. Brush Length Standard (New): 11.1 - 11.5 mm (0.44 - 0.45 in.) Service Limit: 4.3 mm (0.17 in.) Starter Brush Holder Test 12. Check that there is no continuity between the (+) brush (A) and (-) brush (B). If there is continuity, replace the brush holder assembly. Page 578 5. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). Measure voltage between body ground and PGM-FI main relay (fuel pump) 4P connector terminal No.2, and between PGM-FI main relay (IGP) 4P connector terminal No.4. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 7. NO - Go to step 6. 6. Check for a blown No.2 (15 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box. Is the fuse blown? YES - Repair the short in the wire between PGM-FI main relay and the No.2 fuse. NO - Repair the open in the wire between the PGM-FI main relay and the No.2 (15 A) fuse. 7. Turn the ignition switch OFF, and disconnect ECM connector A (32P). 8. Check for continuity between PGM-FI main relay (fuel pump) 4P connector terminal No.3 and ECM connector terminal A15. Is there continuity? YES - Go to step 9. NO - Repair open in the wire between the PGM-FI main relay and the ECM (A15). 9. Reconnect ECM connector A (32P) and the PGM-FI main relay connectors. Page 3076 DTC P0979 thru P1193 Locations 47. Steering Wheel (Airbag Removed) Page 8468 96-97 Passport With Dealer-Installed Security System 1996-97 Passport with dealer-installed security system NOTES: ^ The system uses a stacking-type memory that accepts up to two transmitters. If you program a third transmitter, the memory for the first transmitter is pushed out, and it will no longer work. ^ To clear a lost or stolen transmitter from the system's memory, program a transmitter two times. This will remove the missing transmitter from memory, since only two transmitter codes can be accepted. ^ Another way to clear a lost or stolen transmitter is to erase all transmitter codes and then reprogram them. To do this, refer to the security system owner's manual. Programming the Transmitter 1. Move the driver's seat forward. Locate the security system control unit mounted on the floor underneath the seat. 2. Turn the ignition switch to ON. 3. Use a pen or pencil to press and hold the green programming button on the side of the control unit. When the security system LED on the instrument panel comes on, release the programming button. (Steps 3 and 4 must be done within 5 seconds of each other.) 4. Press and release the top button on the transmitter. Verify that the LED goes out, the siren chirps once, and the front sidemarker lights flash to confirm that the transmitter's code was accepted by the control unit. 5. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK, then to ON. Diagram Information and Instructions Key Reminder Switch: Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System Terminal Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown below is #6. Page 6830 35. EPS Motor Page 2628 11. Remove the mid-frame, then remove the front and rear IPU braces from the junction board. 12. Disconnect the high-voltage cables from the output terminals on the junction board, and wrap them with insulating tape. 13. Remove the battery module air duct mounting bolt, then push the duct forward. 14. Remove the mounting bolts from the battery module. Disconnect the connectors and the Y condenser terminal. NOTE: After disconnection, temporarily secure the Y condenser harness on the junction board. 15. Set the battery module lifting tool on the module, and install the six knurled bolts. Page 196 32. Left Front Side of Engine Compartment Recall - Emissions/ECM Replacement Technical Service Bulletin # 02-081 Date: 021217 Recall - Emissions/ECM Replacement 02-081 December 17, 2002 Applies To: 2000 Insight - ALL 2001 Insight with M/T - ALL Emissions Recall: Insight ECM BACKGROUND The ECM does not correctly identify all malfunctions of the air/fuel ratio sensor (sensor 1). Because of this, the vehicle does not meet state and federal emissions regulations. CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION All owners of affected vehicles will be mailed a notification of this campaign. The customer notification letter is shown in this service bulletin. CORRECTIVE ACTION Replace the ECM. After you replace the ECM, reinitialize the immobilizer system, and do the idle learn procedure. PARTS INFORMATION WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION Operation Number: 122124 Flat Rate Time: 1.0 hour Failed Part: P/N 37820-PHM-A01 H/C 6344626 Defect Code: 5BL Contention Code: L78 Skill Level: Repair Technician REPAIR PROCEDURE NOTE: Make sure you have all of your customer's keys. 1. Carefully remove the passenger's door sill trim. If you break any of the trim clips, replace them (P/N 91560-S06-003, H/C 6353502). Diagram Information and Instructions Door Switch: Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System Terminal Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown below is #6. Page 5815 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. Page 500 Cavity Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity / terminal shown is # 6. Circuit Schematics Page 4701 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: Page 7991 140. CD Changer (Honda Accessory) Page 6662 Relay Box: Connector Locations Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box Page 5756 Electronic Brake Control Module: Description and Operation ABS Control Unit Main Control The ABS control unit detects the wheel speed based on the wheel sensor signal it received, then it calculates the vehicle speed based on the detected wheel speed. The control unit detects the vehicle speed during deceleration based on the rate of deceleration. The ABS control unit calculates the slip rate of each wheel and transmits the control signal to the modulator unit solenoid valve when the slip rate is high. The pressure reduction control has three modes: pressure reducing, pressure retaining, and pressure intensifying. Self-diagnosis Function 1. The ABS control unit is equipped with a main CPU and a sub-CPU. Each CPU checks the other for problems. 2. The CPUs check the circuit of the system. 3. The ABS control unit turns on the ABS indicator when the unit detects a problem and the unit stops the system. 4. The self-diagnosis can be classified into these two categories: ^ Initial diagnosis ^ Regular diagnosis On-board Diagnosis Function The ABS can be diagnosed with the Honda PGM Tester. The ALB Checker cannot be used with this system. For air bleeding and checking wheel sensor signals, use the Honda PGM Tester. See the Honda PGM Tester user's manual for specific operating instructions. Page 9216 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. Locations Ambient Temperature Sensor / Switch HVAC: Locations Heating - Component Location Index Page 1247 YES - Replace the clutch switch. NO - Go to step 9. 9. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 10. Disconnect ECM connector B (25P). 11. Check for continuity between ECM connector terminal B14 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Repair short in the wire between the ECM (B14) and the clutch switch. NO - Substitute a known-good ECM and recheck. If symptom/indication goes away, replace the original ECM. See: Powertrain Management/Computers and Control Systems/Testing and Inspection/Initial Inspection and Diagnostic Overview/Diagnostic Strategies 12. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 13. Disconnect the clutch switch 2P connector. 14. Check for continuity between the clutch switch 2P connector terminals No.1 and No.2 with the clutch pedal pressed. Is there continuity? YES - Go to step 15. NO - Adjust the clutch switch. 15. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). Locations 93. Left Side of PCU (PCU Removed) Service and Repair Crankshaft Main Bearing Seal: Service and Repair For further information regarding this component and the system it is a part of, please refer to Cylinder Block Assembly; Service and Repair. Page 3497 18. Middle Rear of Engine 130. Transmission Housing (CVT) Campaign - Premature IMA Battery Module Failures Technical Service Bulletin # 06-026 Date: 080205 Campaign - Premature IMA Battery Module Failures 06-026 February 5, 2008 Applies To: 2000-04 Insight - See VEHICLES AFFECTED Product Update: Premature IMA Battery Module Failure (Supersedes 06-026, dated May 13, 2006) Updated information is shown with black bars in the images and asterisks in the text. BACKGROUND *NOTE: Because of a class action settlement, the warranty coverage for the IMA battery on 2002-04 Insights purchased or leased between April 13, 2002, and November 7, 2006, is now 10 years or 157,500 miles, whichever occurs first. For more information, refer to Service Bulletin 06-085, Warranty Extension: Vehicle Warranty Mileage.* American Honda is announcing a product update to replace certain IMA components to help prevent IMA battery deterioration. This product update applies only in states where there is an abnormally high replacement rate for IMA batteries. The IMA battery control module(s) allows the battery to overcharge. Occasional overcharging is a desirable function, but too many frequently repeated cycles of overcharge can damage the IMA battery. This damage is the result of excessive current and heat build up. Unique local topographical and ambient conditions in affected states, combined with a driving cycle that typically keeps the IMA battery fully charged, create this potential problem. VEHICLES AFFECTED This product update affects all 2000-04 Insights registered in the states of Arizona, California, Colorado, Florida, Hawaii, Nevada, and Texas, the shaded states on this map) as shown. To verify vehicle eligibility, check for at least one of these items: ^ The customer has a notification letter. ^ The vehicle is shown as eligible on a VIN status inquiry. In addition to these verification items, check for a punch mark above the 14th character of the engine compartment VIN. A punch mark in that location means the product update has already been completed. CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION Owners of affected vehicles within the seven states have received a notification of this product update. An example of the notification is shown in this service bulletin. Page 5811 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Locations Power Window Switch: Locations Power Windows - Component Location Index Page 2724 18. Remove the EPS fuse from the under-hood fusel relay box. 19. With the transmission in neutral and the clutch released, run the engine at 3,500 rpm until the battery level indicator shows at least 50 percent charge. 20. Turn off the engine, then install the EPS fuse. 21. Enter the radio station presets, and set the clock. 22. Center-punch a completion mark above the sixth character of the engine compartment VIN. Page 853 22. Left Rear of Engine Compartment Page 460 ECM Inputs and Outputs at Connector B (25P) Part 1 Page 3975 Diodes How to Identify Wiring Color-Coded Insulation Wire Color Page 3464 16. Rear of Engine Page 7500 - Taillight relay Page 8070 Wire Color Coding Distinct Of Circuit By Wire Base Color All wires have color-coded insulation. Wires belonging to a system's main harness will have a single color. Wires belonging to a system's sub-circuits will have a colored stripe. Striped wires use the codes found in the chart to show wire size and colors. Abbreviations are used to indicate wire color within a circuit diagram. Wire Color Abbreviations The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics: WHT................................... White YEL................................... Yellow BLK................................... Black BLU................................... Blue GRN................................... Green RED................................... Red ORN................................... Orange PNK................................... Pink BRN................................... Brown GRY................................... Gray PUR................................... Purple LT BLU................................... Light Blue LT GRN................................... Light Green The wire insulation has one color or one color with another color stripe. The second color is the stripe. How to Identify Connector Terminals How to Identify Connector Terminals Page 10072 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Page 5355 Pressure Plate: Testing and Inspection For further information regarding this component and the system that it is a part of, please refer to Clutch, M/T; Service and Repair. Page 1909 YES - Replace the PGM-FI main relay (IGP). NO - Repair open in the wire between the PGM-FI main relay (IGP) and the ECM (B1, B9). 37. Measure voltage between body ground and ECM connector terminals B2, B10, B20 and B22 individually. Is there more than 1.0 V? YES - Repair open in the wire(s) that had more than 1.0 V between G101 and the ECM (B2, B10, B20, B22). NO - Go to step 38. 38. Measure voltage between body ground and ECM connector terminal C19. Is there about 5 V? YES - Go to step 46. NO - Go to step 39. 39. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 40. Disconnect the manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor 3P connector. 41. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 42. Measure voltage between body ground and ECM connector terminal C19. Is there about 5 V? YES - Replace the MAP sensor. Page 5810 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: Page 4612 Refueling Control Valve: Testing and Inspection Fuel Tank Vapor Control Valve Test Special Tools Required Vacuum pump/gauge, 0 - 30 in.Hg A973X-041-XXXXX Float Test 1. Make sure the fuel tank is less than half full. 2. Remove the fuel fill cap to relieve the fuel tank pressure, then reinstall the cap. 3. Remove the fuel pipe cover. Disconnect the fuel tank vapor recirculation tube (A), and connect a vacuum pump to the tube. 4. Plug the line (B). 5. Apply vacuum to the fuel tank vapor recirculation tube (A). - If the vacuum holds, replace the fuel tank vapor control valve. - If the vacuum does not hold, the float is OK. Do the valve test. Valve Test 1. Make sure the fuel tank is less than half full. 2. Remove the fuel fill cap. 3. Remove the fuel pipe cover. Disconnect the fuel tank vapor signal tube (A). Page 4912 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. Page 8460 (Not interchangeable with CR-V and S2000 remote transmitter) Transmitter Identification The transmitter for the 1995-99 Accord and the 2000-02 Accord look identical, but they are not interchangeable. The 1995-99 transmitter works the doors of a 2000-02 Accord, but it does not open the trunk. If you are not sure which transmitter you have, press and hold the trunk release button while looking at the LED. The LED on the 1995-99 transmitter comes on in about 1.1 seconds. The LED on the 2000-02 transmitter comes on in about 0.5 second. Programming the Transmitter NOTES: ^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased. ^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the programming mode. ^ You must complete steps 1-6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from exiting the programming mode. 1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter can be used for this step.) 3. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 4. Repeat steps 1 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2. 5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode. 7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted the transmitter's code. 8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda using normal parts ordering procedures. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery. 03-04 Accord LX and EX 2003-04 Accord LX and EX with factory-installed keyless entry system Page 5565 Flywheel: Service and Repair Clutch Replacement Special Tools Required ^ Clutch alignment shaft 07JAF-PM7012A ^ Remover handle 07936-3710100 ^ Ring gear holder 07LAB-PV00100 or 07924-PD20003 ^ Driver 07749-0010000 ^ Attachment, 32 x 35 mm 07746-0010100 Flywheel Replacement 1. Install the special tool. 2. Remove the flywheel mounting bolts in a crisscross pattern in several steps, then remove the flywheel. 3. Remove the sensor disc. 4. Remove the ball bearing (A) from the flywheel (B). Page 6904 Connectors - "C" Page 1178 All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416 etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector or by a capital letter (A, B, C etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Connector Views that shows the connector terminals wire colors connector cavity numbers and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints shown on diagram [8] . Except for the DLC (data link connector) disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554 for example means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Application and ID Ground To Components Index Page 1114 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 4445 9. Front of Engine Page 4543 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 8662 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: Page 7022 3. Remove the flange bolt (A) at the bottom of the damper. 4. Remove the flange bolts (B) at the top of the damper, and remove the damper assembly (C). 5. Install the damper in the reverse order of removal, and note the following item: Install the bolts at the top and bottom of the damper and lightly tighten, raise the suspension to load the vehicle weight, then fully tighten the bolts to the specified torque. Inspection 1. Compress the damper assembly (A) by hand, and check for smooth operation through a full stroke, both compression and extension. The damper should extend smoothly and constantly when compression is released. If it does not, the gas is leaking and the damper should be replaced. 2. Check for oil leaks, abnormal noises, and binding during these tests. Page 4744 Terminals - "T" Shielding Switches Fuses Page 5447 Shift Interlock Solenoid: Diagrams 186. Inhibitor Solenoid (CVT) 187. Shift Lock Solenoid (CVT) Service and Repair Towing Information: Service and Repair Towing If the vehicle needs to be towed, call a professional towing service. Never tow the vehicle behind another vehicle with just a rope or chain. It is very dangerous. Flat-bed Equipment - The operator loads the vehicle on the back of a truck. This is the best way of transporting the vehicle. To accommodate flat-bed equipment, the vehicle is equipped with a towing hook and tie down hook slots. The towing hook can be used with a winch to pull the vehicle onto the truck, and the tie down hook slots can be used to secure the vehicle to the truck. Towing Hook Installation 1. Remove the cover (A) from the front bumper. 2. Remove the towing hook (B) from the tool kit. 3. Screw the towing hook into the bolt hole (C) in the bumper, and tighten it securely by hand. Wheel Lift Equipment - The tow truck uses two pivoting arms that go under the tires (front or rear) and lifts, them off the ground. The other two wheels remain on the ground. Sling-type Equipment - The tow truck uses metal cables with hooks on the ends. These hooks go around parts of the frame or suspension and the cables lift that end of the vehicle off the ground. The vehicle's suspension and body can be seriously damaged. This method of towing is unacceptable. If the vehicle cannot be transported by flat-bed, it should be towed with the front wheels off the ground. If due to damage, the vehicle must be towed with the front wheels on the ground, shift the transmission into neutral. Manual Transmission - Release the parking brake. - Shift the transmission into neutral. CVT - Release the parking brake. - Start the engine. Page 4099 169. BCM Module Page 9424 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: - Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest OHMS" range. Page 799 Power Mirror Switch: Service and Repair Power Mirror Switch Test/Replacement 1. Remove the instrument panel. 2. Disconnect the 10P connector (A) from the power mirror switch (B). 3. Check for continuity between the terminals in switch position according to the table. 4. If the continuity is not as specified, remove the two screws and replace the switch. Page 10210 Front Door Window Motor: Diagrams 72. Power Window Motor, Passenger's 106. Power Window Motor, Driver's A/T - Vehicle Speed Sensor Installation Precautions Transmission Speed Sensor: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Vehicle Speed Sensor Installation Precautions Install VSS Properly to Avoid Reman A/T Damage We can't emphasize enough how important it is to follow, to the letter, the installation instructions that come with a reman A/T. These instructions help ensure that you avoid damaging the A/T and score a successful repair. This is particularly true when it comes to installing the vehicle speed sensor (VSS). Step 6 of the instructions tells you to make sure its gear is fully engaged and the VSS is fully seated before you tighten the retaining bolt. If you don't install the VSS properly, the speed sensor gear will get stripped and the A/T will be seriously damaged. So don't take risks with your customer's vehicle. Always follow these instructions to the letter. You can rest assured you're doing the job right. Page 4833 First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 4060 10. Try to start the engine. Does the engine start? YES - Go to step 11. NO - Go to step 14. 11. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 12. Connect ECM connector terminal A18 to body ground with a jumper wire. 13. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). Is the MIL on? YES - Update the ECM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM, replace the original ECM. NO - Check for an open in the wire between the ECM (A18) and the gauge assembly. Also check for a blown MIL bulb. If the wires and the bulb are OK, replace the gauge assembly. 14. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 15. Inspect the No.7 (15 A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box. Is the fuse OK? YES - Go to step 22. NO - Go to step 16. 16. Remove the blown No.7 (15 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box. 17. Remove the PGM-FI main relay (IGP). 18. Check for continuity between body ground and the PGM-FI main relay (IGP) 4P connector terminal No.2. Is there continuity? YES - Repair short in the wire between the No.7 (15 A) fuse and the PGM-FI main relay (IGP). Also replace the No.7 (15 A) fuse. NO - Go to step 19. Page 175 - Taillight relay Connector Views 177. In-Line Fuse (Honda Accessory) Page 4844 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 8625 Power Mirror Switch: Testing and Inspection Power Mirror Switch Test/Replacement 1. Remove the instrument panel. 2. Disconnect the 10P connector (A) from the power mirror switch (B). 3. Check for continuity between the terminals in switch position according to the table. 4. If the continuity is not as specified, remove the two screws and replace the switch. Page 2850 9. Remove the Intelligent Power Unit (IPU) lid (six Torx bolts and 17 hex bolts). 10. Measure the voltage between the junction board terminals. There should be 10 volts or less. ^ If you have more than 10 volts, there is a problem in the IMA system. Look for and troubleshoot any DTCs before continuing. ^ If you have 10 volts or less, continue to step 11. 11. Lift the foam insert out of the battery module. Page 3178 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. Locations Horn Relay: Locations Relay And Control Unit Location - Engine Compartment Page 584 29. Left Front Side of Engine Compartment Page 3636 11. Middle of Engine Page 7260 condenser (C) by lifting it-up. Be careful not to damage the radiator or the condenser fins when removing the condenser. 7. Install the condenser in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - If you're installing a new condenser, add refrigerant oil (SANDEN SP-10). - Replace the O-ring with new ones at each fitting, and apply a thin coat of refrigerant oil before installing them. Be sure to use the correct O-rings for HFC-134a (R-134a) to avoid leakage. - Immediately after using the oil, reinstall the cap on the container, and seal it to avoid moisture absorption. - Do not spill the refrigerant oil on the vehicle; it may damage the paint. If the refrigerant oil contacts the paint, wash it off immediately. - Be careful not to damage the radiator or the condenser fins when installing the condenser. - Charge the system. Locations Horn Switch: Locations Horn - Component Location Index Page 4905 All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416 etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector or by a capital letter (A, B, C etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Connector Views that shows the connector terminals wire colors connector cavity numbers and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints shown on diagram [8] . Except for the DLC (data link connector) disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554 for example means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Page 2545 Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Description and Operation ECT (Engine Coolant Temperature) Sensor The ECT sensor is a temperature dependent resistor (thermistor). The resistance of the thermistor decreases as the engine coolant temperature increases. Page 2014 Wire Color Coding Distinct Of Circuit By Wire Base Color All wires have color-coded insulation. Wires belonging to a system's main harness will have a single color. Wires belonging to a system's sub-circuits will have a colored stripe. Striped wires use the codes found in the chart to show wire size and colors. Abbreviations are used to indicate wire color within a circuit diagram. Wire Color Abbreviations The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics: WHT................................... White YEL................................... Yellow BLK................................... Black BLU................................... Blue GRN................................... Green RED................................... Red ORN................................... Orange PNK................................... Pink BRN................................... Brown GRY................................... Gray PUR................................... Purple LT BLU................................... Light Blue LT GRN................................... Light Green The wire insulation has one color or one color with another color stripe. The second color is the stripe. How to Identify Connector Terminals How to Identify Connector Terminals Page 1025 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. Page 6772 ^ If the wheels are pointed to the right, shorten the driver's side tie-rod, and lengthen the passenger's side. ^ If the wheels are pointed to the left, shorten the passenger's side tie-rod, and lengthen the driver's side. ^ Each 360° turn of the tie-rod equals about 8 mm of steering wheel adjustment. For example, a steering wheel is off-center by 4 mm with the front wheels pointed right (when the steering wheel is centered). To correct the off-center, shorten the driver's side tie-rod by a half-turn, and lengthen the passenger's side tie-rod by a half-turn. 4. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC. Locations Throttle Position Sensor: Locations PGM-FI System - Component Location Index Page 8493 4. With the connector still disconnected, make these input tests at the connector. - If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system. - If all the input tests prove OK, go to step 5. Page 8942 Fuel Gauge Sender: Technical Service Bulletins Fuel Gauge Sending Unit - Service Manual Revision SOURCE: Honda Service News April 2003 TITLE: S/M Fix: Fuel Gauge Sending Unit Test APPLIES TO: 2000-03 Insight SERVICE TIP: Step 6 on page 11-192 of the 2000-03 Insight S/M lists the wrong measured voltage between terminals No. 1 and No. 2 of the fuel pump 5P connector. The right measured voltage should be battery voltage. Fix your copies of the S/M to look like this: Page 7214 72. Under Right Side of Dash Page 4144 DTC P1253 thru P1459 Locations Relay And Control Unit Locations - Dashboard Page 890 Wheel Speed Sensor: Testing and Inspection Inspection 1. Inspect the front and rear pursers for chipped or damaged teeth. 2. Measure the air gap between the wheel sensor and the purser all the way around while rotating the purser. Remove the rear brake disc to measure the gap on the rear wheel sensor. If the gap exceeds 1.0 mm (0.04 inch), check for a bent suspension arm. Standard: Front/Rear: 0.4 - 1.0 mm (0.02 - 0.04 inch) Page 6294 Fuse: Application and ID Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box Page 10231 Power Window Switch: Service and Repair Passenger's Window Switch Test/Replacement Passenger's Window Switch Test/Replacement 1. Remove the passenger's door panel. 2. Disconnect the 5P connector (A) from the passenger's power window switch (B). 3. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table. 4. If the continuity is not as specified, remove the two screws and replace the switch. Page 8593 Relay And Control Unit Locations - Floor And Rear Page 6255 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. Page 7223 5. Remove the filter (A) from the housing (B), and replace the filter. 6. Install the filter in the reverse order of removal. Page 4909 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: - Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest OHMS" range. Page 4588 Canister Purge Volume Control Valve: Description and Operation EVAP Bypass Solenoid Valve The EVAP two way valve sends fuel vapor to the EVAP canister corresponding to the pressure inside the fuel tank and vacuum, and returns it to in the fuel tank. The EVAP Bypass Solenoid Valve opens to bypass the two way valve during the EVAP leak check. Page 3889 Engine Control Module: Connector Views 137. MPI Module Page 3740 11. Lift out the battery module foam insert. 12. Remove the mounting bolts for the battery condition monitor (BCM) module and the motor control module (MCM). Disconnect the electrical connectors, then remove the modules. 13. Install the new BCM and MCM. Make sure all module connectors are secure. 14. Install the IPU lid. 15. Remove the locking cover from the battery module switch, install the 5 mm bolt, turn the switch on, reinstall the locking cover, and install the battery module switch cover. 16. Install the remaining parts in the reverse order of removal. 17. Reconnect the negative cable to the under-hood 12 V battery. Page 9539 Dimmer Switch: Testing and Inspection Dash Lights Brightness Controller Control Circuit Input Test 1. Remove the gauge assembly. 2. Disconnect the 22P connector from the gauge assembly. 3. Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are making good contact. - If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system. - If the terminals look OK, go to step 4. 4. With the connector still disconnected, make these input tests at the connector. - If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system. - If all the input tests prove OK, replace the printed circuit board in the gauge assembly. Page 7756 Wire Color Abbreviations Locations Page 7491 72. Under Right Side of Dash Page 3453 Knock Sensor: Service and Repair Replacement 1. Remove the throttle body. 2. Disconnect the knock sensor connector, then remove the knock sensor. 3. Install the knock sensor. 4. Install the throttle body. Page 3193 Engine Control Module: Connector Views 137. MPI Module Locations Gauges - Component Location Index Page 8851 3. Remove the glove box, then disconnect the passenger's airbag 2P connector (A) from the floor wire harness. Seat Belt Tensioner: 4. Remove the B-pillar lower trim panel, then disconnect the seat belt tensioner2P connector (A) from the floor wire harness. Page 8505 77. Rear of Driver's Door Page 9231 Fuel Gauge Sender: Testing and Inspection Fuel Gauge Sending Unit Test/Replacement Special Tools Required Adjustable ring wrench 07XAA-001010A NOTE: This article has been updated as per TSB SN030415. NOTE: For the fuel gauge system circuit diagram, refer to the Gauges Circuit Diagram. Test 1. Check the No.6 fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box before testing. 2. Remove the middle floor panel. 3. Remove the access panel from the floor. 4. Turn the ignition switch OFF, then disconnect the fuel pump 5P connector. 5. Measure voltage between the fuel pump 5P connector terminals No.1 and No.2 with the ignition switch ON (II). There should be Battery Voltage. - If the voltage is as specified, go to step 6. - If the voltage is not as specified, check for: an open in the YEL/BLK or BLK wire. - poor ground (G502). 6. Turn the ignition switch OFF. Remove the No.18 (7.5 A) fuse from the under-dash fuse/relay box for at least 10 seconds, then reinstall it. 7. Install a 2 Ohms resistor between the fuel pump 5P connector terminals No.1 and No.2, then turn the ignition switch ON (II). 8. Check that the pointer of the fuel gauge starts moving toward the "F" mark. - If the pointer of the fuel gauge does not move at all, replace the gauge. - If the gauge is OK, inspect the fuel gauge sending unit. NOTE: Turn the ignition switch OFF before the pointer reaches "F" on the gauge dial. Failure to do so may damage the fuel gauge. - The fuel gauge is a bobbin (cross-coil) type, hence the fuel level is continuously indicated even when the ignition switch is OFF, and the pointer moves more slowly than that of a bimetal type. Replacement 1. Remove the fuel tank. 2. Disconnect the quick-connect fittings from the fuel pump. Page 7327 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. Specifications Page 5909 Hydraulic Control Assembly - Antilock Brakes: Service and Repair ABS Modulator-Control Unit Removal and Installation NOTE: ^ Do not spill brake fluid on the vehicle; it may damage the paint; if brake fluid gets on the paint, wash it off immediately with water. ^ Take care not to damage or deform the brake lines during removal and installation. ^ To prevent the brake fluid from flowing, plug and cover the hose ends and joints with a shop towel or equivalent material. Removal 1. Pull up the lock (C) of the ABS control unit 25P connector (B), then disconnect the connector. 2. Disconnect the six brake lines. 3. Remove the two 6 mm nuts. 4. Remove the ABS modulator-control unit (A). Installation 1. Install the ABS modulator-control unit, then tighten the two 6 mm nuts. 2. Align the connecting surface of the ABS control unit 25P connector. 3. Push in the lock of the ABS control unit 25P connector until you hear it click into place, then connect the connector. 4. Bleed the brake system, starting with the front wheels. 5. Start the engine, and check that the ABS indicator goes off. 6. Test-drive the vehicle, and check that the ABS indicator does not come on. Page 6251 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: Page 5814 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. Page 622 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. Page 5951 84. Middle of Floor Page 5306 Disclaimer Page 4891 Fuel Supply System - Component Location Index Part 2 Locations 133. Middle of Floor (CVT) Page 7513 Wires Page 9155 Splices Components Ground - "G" Page 6128 Page 5715 Shift Interlock Switch: Service and Repair Park Pin Switch Replacement 1. Remove the front console. 2. Remove the A/T gear position indicator panel light, and remove the bulb (A) from the socket (B). 3. Separate the A/T gear position indicator panel from the shift lever bracket base (C). 4. Disconnect the park pin switch connector (D), and remove it from the bracket base. 5. Remove the park pin switch clamp (E) and the park pin switch (F). 6. Install the new park pin switch in the shift lever bracket base, and install the park pin switch clamp to secure it. 7. Install the removed parts in the reverse order of removal. Page 7283 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 4916 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 524 116. PGM-FI Main Relay And A/T Reverse Relay (CVT) Page 9185 Dimmer Switch: Testing and Inspection Dash Lights Brightness Controller Control Circuit Input Test 1. Remove the gauge assembly. 2. Disconnect the 22P connector from the gauge assembly. 3. Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are making good contact. - If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system. - If the terminals look OK, go to step 4. 4. With the connector still disconnected, make these input tests at the connector. - If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system. - If all the input tests prove OK, replace the printed circuit board in the gauge assembly. Page 3873 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 10105 40. Upper Left Kick Panel Area Page 2797 ^ Remove the module(s). ^ Install the new module(s) in the reverse order of removal, and torque the mounting bolts to 9.8 Nm (7.2 lb-ft). 12. Reinstall the foam insert. 13. Reinstall the IPU lid. Torque the bolts to 9.8 Nm (7.2 lb-ft). 14. Reinstall the trunk right side shelf support. Torque the bolts to 9.8 Nm (7.2 lb-ft). 15. Remove the battery module switch locking cover, flip the switch to ON, then reinstall the locking cover. 16. Reinstall the battery module switch cover. 17. Reinstall the rear clips on the middle bulkhead carpet. 18. Reinstall the cargo floor mat. 19. Check for and clear any DTCs with the HDS. 20. Remove the No. 15 (40A) fuse (EPS control unit) from the under-hood fuse/relay box. 21. With the transmission in neutral (M/T) or Park (CVT), and the clutch released (M/T), start the engine. Hold the engine speed at 3,500 rpm until the IMA battery level indicator shows at least 50 percent charge. 22. Turn off the engine, and reinstall the No. 15 fuse. 23. Center-punch a completion mark above the 14th character of the engine compartment VIN. Disclaimer Page 2566 Thermostat: Service and Repair Replacement NOTE: Use new O-rings when reassembling. Page 4494 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. Page 7287 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 11 Wires Page 792 Power Door Lock Switch: Testing and Inspection Driver's Door Lock Switch Test Driver's Door Lock Switch Test 1. Remove the driver's door panel. 2. Disconnect the 3P connector from the switch. 3. Check for continuity between the terminal in each switch position according to the table. 4. If the continuity is not as specified, replace the driver's door lock switch. Page 2982 12. Remove the mounting bolts for the battery condition monitor (BCM) module and the motor control module (MCM). Disconnect the electrical connectors, then remove the two modules. 13. Install the new BCM and the new MCM. Make sure all electrical connectors are secure. 14. Reinstall the IPU lid. 15. Remove the locking cover from the battery module switch, install the 5 mm bolt, turn the switch on, and reinstall the locking cover. 16. Reinstall the remaining parts in the reverse order of removal. 17. Reconnect the negative cable to the 12-volt battery in the engine compartment. 18. Remove the EPS fuse from the under-hood fusel relay box. 19. With the transmission in neutral and the clutch released, run the engine at 3,500 rpm until the battery level shows at least 50 percent charge. 20. Turn off the engine, then reinstall the EPS fuse. 21. Enter the radio station presets, and set the clock. Disclaimer Page 3451 9. Knock Sensor Page 4271 ECM Inputs and Outputs at Connector B (25P) Part 2 Page 10124 Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution diagram set to get a more detailed picture of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Page 2033 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. Page 2063 9. With the specified air pressure applied and the piston at TDC, move the primary rocker arm (A). The primary rocker arm and secondary rocker arm (B) should move together. If the primary and secondary rocker arms do not move together, replace the rocker arms as a set. 10. Remove the special tools. Page 8841 Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Service Precautions Airbag Handling and Storage Airbag Handling and Storage Do not disassemble an airbag. It has no serviceable parts. Once an airbag has been deployed, it cannot be repaired or reused. For temporary storage of the airbag during service, please observe the following precautions. - Store the removed airbag with the pad surface up. Never put anything on the removed airbag. - Keep free from any oil, grease, detergent, or water to prevent damage to the airbag assembly. - Store the removed airbag on a secure, flat surface away from any high heat source (exceeding 200 °F/93 °C). - Never perform electrical inspections to the airbags, such as measuring resistance. - Do not position yourself in front of the airbag assembly during removal, inspection, or replacement. Page 679 16. With the help of an assistant, lift the battery module out of the vehicle, and carefully set it down on a flat surface. 17. Install the new battery module in the reverse order of removal (steps 16, 15, 14, 13, 12, and 11). 18. Install a new BCM (2002-04 Insights) ora new BCM and MCM (2000-01 Insights): ^ Remove the mounting bolts. ^ Disconnect the connectors: The BCM has three the MCM has five. ^ Remove the module(s). ^ Install the new module(s) in the reverse order of removal, and torque the mounting bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb-ft). 19. Reinstall the foam insert. 20. Reinstall the IPU lid. Torque the bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb.ft). 21. Reinstall the under-cover (two bolts, two clips, and three screw clips.) Torque the bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb.ft). 22. Remove the battery module switch locking cover, flip the switch to ON, then reinstall the locking cover. 23. Reinstall the battery module switch cover. 24. Reinstall the rear clips on the middle bulkhead carpet. 25. Reinstall the cargo floor mat. 26. Check for and clear any DTCs with the HDS. Air Fuel (A/F) Ratio Sensor Oxygen Sensor: Description and Operation Air Fuel (A/F) Ratio Sensor Air Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor The A/F Sensor operates over a wide air/fuel range. The A/F Sensor is installed in the exhaust manifold. Page 8514 Page 3300 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 4201 P/N 17012-S01-A00 H/C 5999016 ECM/PCM: P/N 37820-P2P-A12 H/C 6104426 Defect Code: 072 Contention Code: C01 Skill Level: Repair Technician Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Connect the PGM Tester to the 16P data link connector. 2. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). Turn on the PGM Tester. 3. From the PROGRAM MENU screen, select HONDA SYSTEMS. 4. From the SYSTEM SELECT screen, select 1: PGM-FI. 5. From the TEST MODE MENU screen, select 6: INSPECTION. 6. From the INSPECTION MENU screen, select 2: EVAP TEST. 7. From the EVAP TEST MENU, select 1: SINGLE SOLENOIDS. 8. From the SINGLE SOLENOIDS MENU, activate the EVAP bypass solenoid valve. Listen for a click and feel for a light tap from the solenoid valve as you activate it. ^ If you can hear the solenoid valve click or feel it tap when activated, disregard this service bulletin, and look for other possible causes. ^ If you cannot hear the solenoid valve click or feel it tap when activated, go to step 9. 9. Replace the EVAP bypass solenoid valve (see section 11 of the appropriate service manual). 10. Test the new solenoid valve with the PGM Tester. ^ If you can hear the solenoid valve click or feel it tap when activated, go to step 15 or 16 as appropriate. ^ If you cannot hear the solenoid valve click or feel it tap when activated, go to step 11. 11. Check the wire harness and the connectors for damage. ^ If you find any damage, repair it, then go to step 12. ^ If you find no damage in the wire harness or connectors, go to step 13. 12. Test the solenoid valve again with the PGM Tester. ^ If you can hear the solenoid valve click or feel it tap when activated, go to step 15 or 16 as appropriate. ^ If you cannot hear the solenoid valve click or feel it tap when activated, go to step 13. 13. Replace the ECM/PCM (see section 11 of the appropriate service manual). 14. Use the PGM Tester to retest the solenoid valve. ^ If you can hear the solenoid valve click or feel it tap when activated, go to step 15 or 16 as appropriate. Page 7284 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. Page 499 Wire Color Coding Distinct Of Circuit By Wire Base Color All wires have color-coded insulation. Wires belonging to a system's main harness will have a single color. Wires belonging to a system's sub-circuits will have a colored stripe. Striped wires use the codes found in the chart to show wire size and colors. Abbreviations are used to indicate wire color within a circuit diagram. Wire Color Abbreviations The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics: WHT................................... White YEL................................... Yellow BLK................................... Black BLU................................... Blue GRN................................... Green RED................................... Red ORN................................... Orange PNK................................... Pink BRN................................... Brown GRY................................... Gray PUR................................... Purple LT BLU................................... Light Blue LT GRN................................... Light Green The wire insulation has one color or one color with another color stripe. The second color is the stripe. How to Identify Connector Terminals How to Identify Connector Terminals Page 7147 Air Door Actuator / Motor: Testing and Inspection Mode Control Motor Circuit Troubleshooting Climate Control Mode Control Motor Circuit Troubleshooting 1. Check the No. 16 (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box. Is the fuse OK? YES - Go to step 2. NO - Replace the fuse, and recheck. 2. Disconnect the mode control motor 7P connector. 3. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 4. Measure the voltage between the No. 1 terminal of the mode control motor 7P connector and body ground. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 5. NO - Repair open in the wire between the mode control motor and the No. 16 fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box. 5. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 6. Test the mode control motor. Is the mode control motor OK? YES - Go to step 7. NO - Go to step 12. 7. Disconnect climate control unit connector B (22P). 8. Check for continuity between the No. 6, 9,10,20, 21, and No. 22 terminals of climate control unit connector B (22P) and body ground individually. Is there continuity? YES - Repair any short to body ground in the wire(s) between the climate control unit and the mode control motor. Page 243 Wires Page 8666 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. Page 1174 Diodes How to Identify Wiring Color-Coded Insulation Wire Color Page 9524 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 9318 Diodes How to Identify Wiring Color-Coded Insulation Wire Color Page 9815 Connectors - "C" Page 4012 51. Under Left Side of Dash Page 8489 Power Door Locks - Component Location Index Page 9248 Wires Page 3895 ECM Inputs and Outputs at Connector C (31P) Part 1 Page 4907 Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Diagnostic Aids Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Page 8331 Page 8916 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: Page 5132 Knock Sensor: Service and Repair Replacement 1. Remove the throttle body. 2. Disconnect the knock sensor connector, then remove the knock sensor. 3. Install the knock sensor. 4. Install the throttle body. Locations Steering Control Module: Locations Dash Board View Page 6004 Braking Sensor/Switch: Description and Operation Brake pedal position Switch The brake pedal position switch signals the ECM when the brake pedal is pressed. Page 3286 Wire Color Coding Distinct Of Circuit By Wire Base Color All wires have color-coded insulation. Wires belonging to a system's main harness will have a single color. Wires belonging to a system's sub-circuits will have a colored stripe. Striped wires use the codes found in the chart to show wire size and colors. Abbreviations are used to indicate wire color within a circuit diagram. Wire Color Abbreviations The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics: WHT................................... White YEL................................... Yellow BLK................................... Black BLU................................... Blue GRN................................... Green RED................................... Red ORN................................... Orange PNK................................... Pink BRN................................... Brown GRY................................... Gray PUR................................... Purple LT BLU................................... Light Blue LT GRN................................... Light Green The wire insulation has one color or one color with another color stripe. The second color is the stripe. How to Identify Connector Terminals How to Identify Connector Terminals Page 7899 Page 3675 PGM-FI System - Component Location Index Page 7426 9. Disconnect the connectors (A) from the mode control motor and the air mix control motor, then remove the wire harness clips (B). Remove the mounting bolt and the heater unit (C). 10. Remove the clips (A), the sensor clamp (B), and the heater core temperature sensor (C). Remove the grommet (D), then remove the self-tapping screw and the pipe bracket (E). Remove the self-tapping screws and the core cover (F). While being careful not to bend the inlet and outlet pipes. Pull out the heater core (G). 11. Install the heater core in the reverse order of removal. Install the heater core temperature sensor directly against the inlet pipe, and install the sensor clamp securely. 12. Install the heater unit in the reverse order of removal, and note these items. - Install the grommets of the heater core and the heater valve cable securely. - Do not interchange the inlet and outlet heater hoses, and install the hose clamps securely. - Refill the cooling system with engine coolant. - Adjust the heater valve cable. - Make sure that there is no coolant leakage. - Make sure that there is no air leakage. - For evaporator and A/C-related information, refer to evaporator removal and installation. - Do the ECM idle learn procedure. Page 8692 - Weld the front wheelhouse. - Weld the wheelhouse upper member. Page 9209 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 6590 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: Page 474 ECM/PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector D (16P) Part 2 Page 1780 Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Service Precautions Airbag Handling and Storage Airbag Handling and Storage Do not disassemble an airbag. It has no serviceable parts. Once an airbag has been deployed, it cannot be repaired or reused. For temporary storage of the airbag during service, please observe the following precautions. - Store the removed airbag with the pad surface up. Never put anything on the removed airbag. - Keep free from any oil, grease, detergent, or water to prevent damage to the airbag assembly. - Store the removed airbag on a secure, flat surface away from any high heat source (exceeding 200 °F/93 °C). - Never perform electrical inspections to the airbags, such as measuring resistance. - Do not position yourself in front of the airbag assembly during removal, inspection, or replacement. Page 4268 ECM Inputs and Outputs at Connector A (32P) Part 1 Page 2798 Page 9258 Key Reminder Switch: Diagnostic Aids Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Page 2795 4. Flip the battery module switch to OFF, then reinstall the locking cover. 5. Wait at least 5 minutes for the capacitors in the system to discharge. 6. Remove the rear clips from the middle bulkhead carpet. 7. Remove the under-cover (two bolts, two clips, and three screw clips). 8. Remove the IPU (intelligent power unit) lid (six Torx bolts and 17 hex bolts). Page 1403 Knock Sensor: Description and Operation Knock Sensor The knock control system adjusts the ignition timing to minimize knock. Page 3218 Engine Control Module: Service and Repair Updating the ECM/PCM How To Substitute The ECM For Tosting Purposes-'00-01 M/T Models Use this procedure if you need a known-good ECM to test a vehicle. It allows you to swap a ECM from a "donor" vehicle without having to program it to the test vehicle's ignition key. 1. Cut a temporary ignition key for the test vehicle with a non-immobilizer key blank. 2. Remove the ECM from the test vehicle. 3. Write the test vehicle's VIN on the ECM you just removed to avoid confusing it with the donor vehicle's ECM. 4. Remove the known-good ECM from the donor vehicle, and install it in the test vehicle. 5. Tape the donor vehicle's ignition key head-to-head to the test vehicle's temporary key (A). The ECM will recognize the code from the donor vehicle's key (B) and allow you to start the engine with the temporary key. 6. After completing your tests, reinstall both ECMs, and destroy the temporary key. Page 6133 Failed Part: P/N 1K000-PHM-000 Defect Code: 03214 Symptom Code: 03205 Skill Level: Repair Technician INSPECTION PROCEDURE 1. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 2. Remove the cargo floor mat (see page 20-44 of the 2000-04 Insight Service Manual). (In ISIS, use the keyword FLOOR MAT, and select Interior Trim Removal/Installation - Cargo Area from the list.) 3. Remove the battery module switch cover (two bolts), then remove the locking cover from the switch. 4. Flip the battery module switch to OFF. Reinstall the locking cover. 5. Wait at least 5 minutes to let the capacitors in the system discharge. Page 847 Trunk / Liftgate Switch: Testing and Inspection Hatch Lock Actuator/Latch Switch/Unlock Switch Test 1. Open the hatch and remove the rear trim panel. 2. Disconnect the 6P connector (A) from the hatch lock actuator (B). Actuator Test: 3. Check actuator operation by connecting battery power and grounding according to the table. To prevent damage to the actuator, apply battery voltage only momentarily. Latch Switch Test: 4. Check for continuity between terminal No. 3 and terminal No. 6. - With the hatch open, there should be continuity. - With the hatch closed, there should be no continuity. Unlock Switch Test: 5. Check for continuity between terminal No. 1 and terminal No. 2. - With the hatch unlocked, there should be continuity. - With the hatch locked, there should be no continuity. 6. If the tests don't work as specified, replace the hatch latch assembly. Page 249 Cavity Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity / terminal shown is # 6. Circuit Schematics Component Locations Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Component Locations Component Location Index Page 151 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: - Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest OHMS" range. Page 9429 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 4743 Splices Components Ground - "G" Page 7305 Condenser Fan: Testing and Inspection Radiator and Condenser Fans High Speed Circuit Troubleshooting Radiator and Condenser Fans High Speed Circuit Troubleshooting 1. Disconnect the A/C pressure switch 4P connector. 2. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 3. Measure the voltage between the No. 3 terminal of the A/C pressure switch 4P connector and body ground. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 4. NO - Repair open in the wire between the radiator fan relay, the fan control relay and the A/C pressure switch. 4. Measure the voltage between the No. 2 terminal of the A/C pressure switch 4P connector and body ground. Is there battery voltage? YES - Replace the A/C pressure switch. NO - Repair open in the wire between the A/C pressure switch and the A/C diode. Page 2028 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 10258 3. Install the door glass and regulator in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - Before installing the regulator, apply multipurpose grease to all the sliding surfaces of the regulator. - Make sure the connector is plugged in properly. - Roll the glass up and down to see if it moves freely without binding. - Make sure that there is no clearance between the glass and glass run channel when the glass is closed. - Adjust the position of the glass as necessary. - Check for water leaks. - Test-drive and check for wind noise and rattles. - When reinstalling the door panel, make sure the plastic cover is installed properly and sealed around its perimeter. Page 4236 Page 1022 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: Page 9936 Connectors - "C" Page 8673 Page 7280 In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locater) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: - Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. Page 2669 12. Remove the battery module air duct mounting bolt (A), then push the duct forward. 13. Remove the mounting bolts (B) from the battery module (C). Disconnect the connectors (D) and Y condenser terminal (E). NOTE: After disconnection, temporarily secure the Y condenser harness on the junction board. 14. Set the battery module lifting tool on the module (A), and install the six knurled bolts (B). 15. With the help of an assistant, lift the battery module out of the car, and carefully set it down on a flat surface. Specifications Fuel Pressure: Specifications With the fuel pressure regulator vacuum hose disconnected and clamped ................................................ 270 - 320 kPa (2.8 - 3.3 kgf/sq.cm, 40 - 47 psi) With the engine running, unpinch and reconnect the vacuum hose ............................................................ 210 - 260 kPa (2.1 - 2.6 kgf/sq.cm, 30 - 37 psi) Page 9523 First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 505 In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locater) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: - Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. Diagram Information and Instructions Door Switch: Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System Terminal Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown below is #6. Starting System - Unable To Key In Ignition Switch Key: Technical Service Bulletins Starting System - Unable To Key In Ignition Switch Can't Turn Ignition Switch? Check for Locked Steering Got a service customer complaining he or she can't turn the ignition switch to start the engine? The reason could just be the steering column lock pin is engaged with the front wheels turned. Here's what typically happens: Some folks use the steering wheel to help support themselves while climbing in or out of the vehicle. This is very common among elderly or disabled drivers. Doing this turns the front wheels, which twists the tires against the ground. The twisted tires apply torque to the steering column. With the ignition switch in LOCK (0), the steering column lock pin is engaged. But the applied torque on the steering column binds the lock pin, making it tough to turn the ignition switch. The ignition switch won't turn to ON (II) if the lock pin isn't disengaged from the steering column. Tell your customer there's nothing wrong with the ignition switch itself. All he or she needs to do is turn the steering wheel from side to side while turning the switch. This usually releases the lock pin so the engine can be started. In some cases, though, your customer may need to give a good tug on the wheel. This could easily happen when parking on a hill and the wheels are turned sharply before the engine is shut off. Page 2822 With the Accord Hybrid, there is a third situation in which the cables can be hot. 3. The ignition switch is on, the engine has been turned off by the Auto Idle Stop feature, and the air conditioner is on. In this case, the high-voltage battery module is sending current to the air conditioner compressor. The only condition common to all three situations in which the cables can be hot is that the ignition is on. Therefore: When the ignition switch is off, electric current cannot flow into the high-voltage cables. HIGH-VOLTAGE BATTERY ELECTROLYTE Small quantities of a highly alkaline liquid electrolyte, which is corrosive to human tissue, are used in the manufacture of the high-voltage battery cells. However, in the finished cells, electrolyte is non-liquid and sealed in a metal case, and any leakage would be extremely rare. Moreover, the electrolyte is non-flammable, non-explosive, and creates no hazardous fumes or vapors in normal operating conditions. 12-VOLT BATTERY ELECTROLYTE Any hazards from contact with the 12-volt battery electrolyte are the same as those with batteries in conventional passenger vehicles. IMA System Service Precautions IMA System Service Precautions - The Insight IMA (Integrated Motor Assisted) system uses high voltage (144 V) circuits. Be sure to shut off the electrical circuits and isolate the IMA system and related parts before you work on them. - High voltage cables and their covers are identified by orange coloring. Caution labels are attached to high voltage and other related parts. Be careful not to touch these cables and parts without using adequate protective gear. The front floor under-cover protecting the high voltage cables is marked with this symbol. - If the 12 V battery has been discharged, or either of its cables has been disconnected, or the MCM (Motor Control Module) has been reset, the Page 1120 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. Page 2992 Motor Control Module (MCM): Locations 108. Top Front of Battery Module 110. Top Rear of Battery Module Page 1755 Page 2474 Radiator Cooling Fan Temperature Sensor / Switch: Service and Repair Radiator Fan Switch Replacement 1. Disconnect the radiator fan switch connector, then remove the radiator fan switch (A). 2. Install the radiator fen switch using a new O-ring (B). Page 1079 Gauges - Component Location Index Page 8964 Wire Color Coding Distinct Of Circuit By Wire Base Color All wires have color-coded insulation. Wires belonging to a system's main harness will have a single color. Wires belonging to a system's sub-circuits will have a colored stripe. Striped wires use the codes found in the chart to show wire size and colors. Abbreviations are used to indicate wire color within a circuit diagram. Wire Color Abbreviations The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics: WHT................................... White YEL................................... Yellow BLK................................... Black BLU................................... Blue GRN................................... Green RED................................... Red ORN................................... Orange PNK................................... Pink BRN................................... Brown GRY................................... Gray PUR................................... Purple LT BLU................................... Light Blue LT GRN................................... Light Green The wire insulation has one color or one color with another color stripe. The second color is the stripe. How to Identify Connector Terminals How to Identify Connector Terminals Page 548 Diodes How to Identify Wiring Color-Coded Insulation Wire Color Page 4481 Wires Page 5747 26. Brake Pedal Position Switch Page 845 123. Hatch Latch/Unlock Switch Page 9738 Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow from power at the top of the diagram to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another for example is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors Page 7195 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. Page 239 Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box Diagnostic Aids Fuse Block: Diagnostic Aids Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Page 9522 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. Page 4018 Connectors - "C" Page 226 Turn Signal Relay: Testing and Inspection 1. Remove the turn signal/hazard relay (A) from the under-dash fuse/relay box (B). 2. Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are all making good contact. - If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system. - If the terminals look OK, make the following input tests at the fuse/relay box socket. - If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system. - If all the input tests prove Ok, the turn signal/hazard relay must be faulty; replace it. Page 1256 Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Description and Operation ECT (Engine Coolant Temperature) Sensor The ECT sensor is a temperature dependent resistor (thermistor). The resistance of the thermistor decreases as the engine coolant temperature increases. Page 4904 Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow from power at the top of the diagram to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another for example is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors Page 6490 First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Diagram Information and Instructions Condenser Fan: Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System Terminal Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown below is #6. Page 9334 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: Page 8896 Wires Locations Power Mirror Switch: Locations Power Mirrors - Component Location Index Page 7085 6. Remove the brake disc retaining flat screws (A). 7. Screw two 8 x 1.25 mm bolts (B) into the disc to push it away from the hub. Turn each bolt two turns at a time to prevent cocking the disc excessively. 8. Remove the flange bolts (A) and wheel sensor (B) from the knuckle. Do not disconnect the wheel sensor connector. 9. Turn the front of the knuckle outward. Tap the driveshaft (A) inward with a plastic hammer to allow space to install the special tool on the lower arm ball joint. Page 3495 Vehicle Speed Sensor: Locations Gauges - Component Location Index Page 8310 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 8765 Wire Color Abbreviations Locations Electric Load Sensor: Locations Relay And Control Unit Location - Engine Compartment Locations Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor: Locations EVAP System - Component Location Index 128. Right Side of Fuel Tank Page 4873 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Locations 133. Middle of Floor (CVT) Page 2338 First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 8359 Wires Page 5728 Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Service and Repair Transmission Range Switch Replacement 1. Remove the air cleaner housing. 2. Remove the transmission range switch connector from the connector bracket (A), then disconnect it. 3. Remove the transmission range switch (B). 4. Shift the transmission into the [N] position by turning the control lever (A). Do not squeeze the end (B) of the control shaft tips together when shifting. If the tips are squeezed together it will cause a faulty signal or position due to the play between the control shaft and the switch. 5. Set the transmission range switch to the [N] position. The switch clicks in the [N] position. 6. Install the transmission range switch gently on the control shaft, then tighten the bolts. Do not move the switch when tightening the bolts. 7. Connect the connector securely, then install it on its bracket. Page 10059 All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416 etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector or by a capital letter (A, B, C etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Connector Views that shows the connector terminals wire colors connector cavity numbers and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints shown on diagram [8] . Except for the DLC (data link connector) disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554 for example means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Page 9170 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 4340 Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Testing and Inspection PGM-FI Main Relay Test PGM-FI Main Relay Test Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No.3 and No.4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals when power is disconnected. Page 1912 57. Measure voltage between body ground and ECM connector terminal B6. Is there about 5 V? YES - Substitute a known-good TCM and recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away, replace the original TCM. NO - Go to step 58. 58. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 59. Disconnect ECM connector B (25P). 60. Check for continuity between ECM connector terminal B6 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Repair short in the wire between the ECM (B6) and the TCM. NO - Update the ECM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM, replace the original ECM. 61. Measure voltage between ECM connector terminal B17 and body ground. Is there about 5 V (or battery voltage)? YES - Go to step 65. NO - Go to step 62. 62. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 63. Disconnect ECM connector B (25P). Page 244 Connectors - "C" Page 3814 DTC P1486 thru P1585 Page 6205 Starter Motor: Service and Repair Replacement Starter Replacement 1. Write down the frequencies for the radio's preset buttons. 2. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery first, then disconnect the positive cable. 3. Remove the breather pipe (A) and brake booster vacuum hose bracket (B) from the air cleaner housing, then remove the air cleaner housing/intake air duct assembly. 4. Disconnect the starter cable (A) and BLK/WHT wire (B), then remove the wire harness clamps (C). 5. Remove the two bolts holding the starter, then remove the starter. 6. Install the starter in the reverse order of removal. Make sure the crimped side of the ring terminal is facing out. 7. Connect the positive cable and negative cable to the battery. 8. Start the engine to make sure the starter works properly. 9. Hold the engine at 3,500 rpm with no load for 10 minutes. 10. The IMA Battery Level indicator should read full. 11. Perform the engine control module (ECM) idle learn procedure. 12. Enter the customer's radio station preset. Page 7286 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Locations Relay And Control Unit Locations - Dashboard Diagram Information and Instructions Fuel Pump Relay: Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System Terminal Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown below is #6. Page 4534 Variable Valve Timing Solenoid: Diagnostic Aids Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Page 5019 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Page 6457 174. Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box Part 2 Page 7343 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 2928 CORRECTIVE ACTION Based on the model and/or model year, install the appropriate IMA repair kit or part. WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Turn the ignition switch to the LOCK (0 position). 2. Remove cargo floor mat: ^ Refer to page 20-44 of the 2000-2006 Insight Service Manual, or ^ Online, enter keywords FLOOR MAT, then select Interior Trim Removal/Installation - Cargo Area from the list. 3. Remove the battery module switch cover (two bolts), then remove the locking cover from the switch. Page 5483 199. Transmission Range Switch (CVT) Page 9614 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 1602 Fuel Pressure: Testing and Inspection Fuel Pressure Test Special Tools Required Fuel pressure gauge 07406-004000A M/T model: 1. Relieve the fuel pressure. 2. Remove the sealing nut from the fuel rail. Attach the fuel pressure adapter nut, 12 mm (A) and the fuel pressure gauge. 3. Disconnect the vacuum hose (C) from the fuel pressure regulator (D), and pinch it closed with a clamp (E). 4. Start the engine and let it idle. - If the engine starts, go to step 6. - If the engine does not start, go to step 5. 5. Check to see if the fuel pump is running: Remove the fuel fill cap, and hold your ear to the fuel fill port while an assistant turns the ignition switch ON (II). You should hear the pump run for about two seconds when the ignition is turned ON (II). If the fuel pump runs, make sure there is sufficient fuel in the tank, then go to step 6. - If the fuel pump does not run, test it. 6. Read the pressure gauge (with the fuel pressure regulator vacuum hose disconnected and clamped). The pressure should be 270 - 320 kPa (2.8 3.3 kgf/sq.cm, 40 - 47 psi). If the pressure is OK and engine is running, go to step 8. If the engine is not running, repair the cause, then continue this test. - If the pressure is out of spec, go to step 8. 7. With the engine running, unpinch and reconnect the vacuum hose and read the gauge again. The pressure should be 210 - 260 kPa (2.1 - 2.6 kgf/sq.cm, 30 - 37 psi). If the fuel pressure is OK, the test is complete, go to step 9. - If the pressure is out of spec, go to step 8. 8. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the pressure regulator again while you watch the pressure gauge. The pressure should rise when you disconnect the hose. If the pressure did not rise, replace the fuel pressure regulator. - If the pressure rose, but all your readings were lower than specified, check for a clogged fuel filter and for leaks in the fuel lines. - If the pressure rose, but all your readings were higher than specified, check for a pinched or clogged fuel return hose or line. 9. Reconnect the vacuum hose, remove the pressure gauge, and reinstall the sealing nut with a new washer. Tighten the sealing nut to 22 N.m (2.2 kgf.m, 16 lbf.ft). NOTE: Disassemble and clean the fuel pressure gauge attachment thoroughly after use. CVT model: 1. Relieve the fuel pressure. Front Page 8095 Alarm/Immobilizer Control Unit: Connector Views 115. Immobilizer Receiver Unit 181. Security Control Unit (Honda Accessory) Page 4986 29. Left Front Side of Engine Compartment Locations Cylinder Identification Sensor: Locations Part 1 Of 2 Service and Repair Scuff Plate: Service and Repair Trim Removal/Installation - Door Areas Special Tools Required KTC trim tool set SOJATP2014 * *Available through the American Honda Tool and Equipment Program NOTE: - Put on gloves to protect your hands. - Use the appropriate tool from the KTC trim tool set to avoid damage when prying components. - Take care not to bend or scratch the trim and panels. 1. Remove the trim as shown. Use the numbered sequence on the A-pillar trim. 2. Install the trim in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - Check for damaged or stress-whitened clips, and replace them with new ones. - Before reinstalling the door weatherstrip, clean the body bonding surface with alcohol. - Apply clear sealant (Cemedine P/N 08712-0004, or equivalent) into the groove of the door weatherstrip all the way around. Attach the door weatherstrip with sealant and adhesive tape. - Push the clips into place securely. Page 4496 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. Connector Views 177. In-Line Fuse (Honda Accessory) Diagram Information and Instructions Data Link Connector: Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System Terminal Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown below is #6. Page 7349 7. Check for continuity between the No. 10 terminal of climate control unit connector A (12P) and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Check for loose wires or poor connections at climate control unit connector A (12P). If the connections are good, substitute a known-good climate control unit, and recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away, replace the original climate control unit. NO - Check for an open in the wire between the climate control unit and body ground. If the wire is OK, check for poor ground at G404. Page 4682 Connectors - "C" Page 4035 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 8025 Radio/Stereo: Diagnostic Aids Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Locations Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor: Locations PGM-FI System - Component Location Index Page 1757 5. After checking and repairing leaks, the system must be evacuated. Page 6845 100. EPS Control Unit Specifications Spark Plug: Specifications Gap and Torque Gap and Torque TORQUE 23 Nm (2.3 kgf.m, 17 lbf.ft) GAP STANDARD SERVICE LIMIT (NEW) 1.0 - 1.1 mm (0.039 - 0.043 in.) 1.3 mm (0.05 in) Page 632 Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Testing and Inspection PGM-FI Main Relay Test PGM-FI Main Relay Test Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No.3 and No.4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals when power is disconnected. Locations Shift Indicator: Locations Component Location Index Page 6767 DIAGNOSTIC WORKSHEET REPAIR PROCEDURE A Page 9520 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. Page 3867 70. Right Side of Floor 95. Left Side of PCU (PCU Removed) Page 2098 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Page 3533 Camshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair Replacement 1. Disconnect connectors from the camshaft position (CMP) sensor A (top dead center (TDC) sensor 1) and CMP sensor B (TDC sensor 2) Remove the CMP sensor A (TDC sensor 1) sensor (A) and the CMP sensor B (TDC sensor 2) sensor (B). 2. Install the CMP sensor A (TDC sensor 1) sensor and the CMP sensor B (TDC sensor 2) using new O-rings (C). Campaign - ECM Update Engine Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins Campaign - ECM Update 00-042 April 5, 2000 Applies To: 2000 Insight - From VIN JHMZE1...YT000001 thru JHMZE1...YT000440 Product Update: Insight ECM BACKGROUND The engine may not start it the ambient temperature is below 0°F (-20°C). CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION All owners of affected vehicles will be mailed a notification of this campaign. An example of a customer notification is shown. CORRECTIVE ACTION Replace the ECM (engine control module) with an improved unit. After the ECM replacement, the immobilizer system must be reinitialized. Make sure you have all the customer's keys. Page 9377 All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416 etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector or by a capital letter (A, B, C etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Connector Views that shows the connector terminals wire colors connector cavity numbers and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints shown on diagram [8] . Except for the DLC (data link connector) disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554 for example means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Page 5243 Transmission Speed Sensor: Diagrams 188. CVT Drive Pulley Speed Sensor 189. CVT Driven Pulley Speed Sensor 190. CVT Speed Sensor Page 7166 4. Remove the wire harness (A) from the heater duct (B), then remove the self-tapping screws and the heater duct. 5. Install the duct in the reverse order of removal. Make sure that there is no air leakage. Page 4917 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: Page 8298 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 2899 6. Remove the right trunk shelf support (five clips and two bolts). 7. Remove the six mid-frame cover bolts. Remove the intelligent power unit (IPU) lid (17 bolts). 8. Measure the voltage at the junction board terminals. There should be 30 V or less. If you read more than 30 V, there is a problem in the circuit; do the DTC troubleshooting first. 9. Look at the part number on the motor control module (MCM), and refer to this chart. If there is a replacement part number listed for it, you need to order a replacement MCM. 10. Look at the part number on the battery condition monitor (BCM). If the part number is not 1K100-PHM-A01, you need to order a replacement BCM. Page 3176 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. Service and Repair Headliner: Service and Repair Headliner Removal/Installation Special Tools Required KTC trim tool set SOJATP2014 * * Available through the American Honda Tool and Equipment Program NOTE: - Put on gloves to protect your hands. - Use the appropriate tool from the KTC trim tool set to avoid damage when prying components. - Take care not to bend and scratch the headliner. - Be careful not to damage the dashboard or other interior pieces. - Use a clip remover to remove the roof side pad clips. 1. Remove these items: - A-pillar trim, both sides - Spotlight - Door weatherstrip, both sides as necessary - Seat belt upper anchor, both sides - Hatch support strut, both sides - Quarter trim panel, roof portion as necessary 2. Remove the headliner as shown. 3. Install the headliner in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - Check for damaged or stress-whitened clips, and replace them with new ones. - When reinstalling the headliner through the hatch opening, be careful not to fold or bend it. Also, be careful not to scratch the body. - Check that both sides of the headliner are securely attached to the trim panel. Page 4327 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. Page 6400 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 5891 Brake Fluid Level Sensor/Switch: Testing and Inspection Brake Fluid Level Switch Test Check for continuity between the terminals (A) with the float in the down position and the up position: ^ Remove the brake fluid completely from the reservoir. With the float down, there should be continuity. ^ Fill the reservoir with brake fluid to MAX (upper) level (B). With the float up, there should be no continuity. Page 1502 36. Left Side of Dash 75. In Driver's Door (Passenger's Similar) Page 1488 Transmission Speed Sensor: Service and Repair Speed Sensors Replacement 1. Disconnect the connectors from the drive pulley speed sensor (A), the driven pulley speed sensor (B), and the CVT speed sensor (C). 2. Remove the 6 mm bolts, then remove the speed sensors. 3. Replace the O-rings (D) with new ones before installing the speed sensors. 4. Install the drive pulley speed sensor, driven pulley speed sensor, and CVT speed sensor. 5. Check the speed sensor connectors for rust, dirt, or oil, then connect the connectors securely. Page 9802 58. Front Side Marker Light, Left Or Right Page 2805 4. Flip the battery module switch to OFF, then reinstall the locking cover. 5. Wait at least 5 minutes for the capacitors in the system to discharge. 6. Remove the rear clips from the middle bulkhead carpet. 7. Remove the under-cover (two bolts, two clips, and three screw clips). 8. Remove the IPU (intelligent power unit) lid (six Torx bolts and 17 hex bolts). Locations Refrigerant Pressure Sensor / Switch: Locations Climate Control - Component Location Index Page 4394 31. Left Front Side of Engine Compartment Starter Circuit Troubleshooting Starter Motor: Testing and Inspection Starter Circuit Troubleshooting Starter Circuit Troubleshooting NOTE: - Air temperature must be between 59° and 100° F (15° and 38° C) during this procedure. - After this test, or any subsequent repair, reset the ECM to clear any codes. Recommended Procedure : - Use a starter system tester. - Connect and operate the equipment in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. Alternate Procedure 1. Hook up the following equipment : - Ammeter, 0 - 400 A - Voltmeter, 0 - 20 V (accurate within 0.1 volt) - Tachometer, 0 - 1200 rpm 2. Remove the No.2 (15 A) fuse from the under-dash fuse/relay box. 3. Turn the battery module switch OFF. 4. With the clutch pedal depressed, turn the ignition switch to start(III). Did the starter crank the engine normally? YES-The starting system is OK. NO-If the starter won't crank at all, or if it cranks the engine erratically or too slowly, go to step 5. If it won't disengage from the flywheel ring gear when you release the key, check for the following until you find the cause. - Solenoid plunger and switch malfunction - Dirty drive gear or damaged overrunning clutch 5. Check the battery condition, and charge it if necessary. Check electrical connections at the battery and the starter for looseness and corrosion. Then check the starter again. Did the starter crank the engine normally? YES-The starting system is OK. NO-If the starter won't crank at all, go to step 6. If it cranks the engine erratically or too slowly, go to step 8. Page 9789 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Crankshaft Inspection Crankshaft: Testing and Inspection Crankshaft Inspection Out-of-Round and Taper 1. Remove the crankshaft from the cylinder block. 2. Clean the crankshaft oil passages with pipe cleaners or a suitable brush. 3. Check the keyway and threads. 4. Measure out-of-round at the middle of each rod and main journal in two places. The difference between measurements on each journal must not be more than the service limit. Journal Out-of-Round: Standard (New): 0.0040 mm (0.00016 inch) max. Service Limit: 0.010 mm (0.0004 inch) 5. Measure taper at the edge of each rod and main journal. The difference between measurements on each journal must not be more than the service limit. Journal Taper: Standard (New): 0.0025 mm (0.00098 inch) max. Service Limit: 0.006 mm (0.0002 inch) Straightness 6. Place the cylinder block on the surface plate. 7. Clean and install the bearings on the No. 1 and No. 4 journal of the cylinder block. 8. Lower the crankshaft into the block. 9. Measure runout on all main journals. Rotate the crankshaft two complete revolutions. The difference between measurements on each journal must not be more than the service limit. Page 9115 Splices Components Ground - "G" Page 3452 Knock Sensor: Description and Operation Knock Sensor The knock control system adjusts the ignition timing to minimize knock. Locations Ignition Hold Relay: Locations Relay And Control Unit Locations - Floor And Rear Page 7384 EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 4835 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Body Paint Paint: Service and Repair Body Paint General General The 3-coat-3-bake (3C-3B) paint finishes give the Insight a deep gloss and stunning finish. This manual provides information on paint defect, repair, and refinishing. Throughout, the objective is to explain in a simple yet comprehensive manner the basic items you should know about paint repairs. Select the correct material for the defect and repaint or refinish in the correct manner as described. WARNING: - Most paints contain substances that are harmful if inhaled or swallowed. Read the paint label before opening the container. Spray paint only in a well ventilated area. - Cover spilled paint with sand, or wipe it up at once. - Wear an approved respirator, gloves, eye protection, and appropriate clothing when painting. Avoid contact with skin. - If paint gets in your mouth or on your skin, rinse or wash thoroughly with water. If paint gets in your eyes, flush with water and get prompt medical attention. - Paint is flammable. Store it in a safe place, and keep it away from sparks, flames, or cigarettes. Basic Rules for Repairing a Paint Finish To repair paint damage, always use the 2-part acrylic urethane paints designated; polish and bake each of the three coats, as in production, to maintain the original film thickness, and to assure the same quality as the original finish. Outline of Factory Painting Process: Features in Each Work Process 1. Pretreatment and Electrodeposition In the pretreatment process, the entire body is degreased, cleaned, and coated with zinc phosphate by dipping. After the body has been cleaned with pure water, it is placed in an electrolytic bath of soluble primer (Cationic Electrodeposition). This produces a thorough corrosion inhibiting coating on the inner surface and corners of the body, pillars, sills, and panel joints. Chipping primer is then applied to the most susceptible areas. 2. Intermediate coat The intermediate coat is applied to the prepared surface for further protection against damage. 3. Top Coat Enamel paint and either polyester or acrylic resin paint are used in the top coat for higher solidity, smoothness, brightness, and weather resistance. Sectional View of Paint Coats: Refinishing Processes Refinishing Processes Page 2512 Temperature Gauge: Description and Operation Engine Coolant Temperature Gauge The engine coolant temperature gauge (part of the LCD Display) is controlled by the CPU in the gauge assembly. The ECT sensor sends a coolant temperature signal to the ECM through the RED/WHT wire (cavity C26). The ECM then sends a coolant temperature signal to the CPU in the gauge assembly through the LT GRN/RED wire (cavity A4). The CPU controls the LCD display to turn on the correct number of segments to indicate the coolant temperature. Refer to the Gauges System for specific tests or troubleshooting procedures. Page 6676 Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow from power at the top of the diagram to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another for example is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors Page 10154 111. Rear Window Defogger, Fuel Cut, Radiator Fan Main (Climate Control) And Intermittent Wiper Relays Locations Idle Control System - Component Location Index Locations Crankshaft Position Sensor: Locations PGM-FI System - Component Location Index Diagram Information and Instructions Idle Air Control Valve: Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System Terminal Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown below is #6. Page 5794 Diodes How to Identify Wiring Color-Coded Insulation Wire Color Page 5751 5. Screw in the brake pedal position switch (A) until its plunger is fully pressed (threaded end (B) is touching the pad (C) on the pedal arm). Then back off the switch 1/4 turn to make 0.3 mm (0.01 inch) of clearance between the threaded end and the pad. Tighten the locknut firmly. Connect the brake pedal position switch connector. Make sure the brake lights go off when the pedal is released. 6. After adjusting the brake pedal position switch, adjust the idle stop switch (D) with the same procedure used in step 5. When finished, start the engine, and make sure the engine stops when the brake pedal is pressed (CVT). Note these items during adjustment: ^ When either the brake pedal position switch or the idle stop switch needs adjusting, both switches must be adjusted together to keep their functions synchronized. Always adjust the brake pedal position switch first, then adjust the idle stop switch; never adjust the switches independently. ^ When the brake pedal is released, the brake pedal position switch is normally open and the idle stop switch is normally closed. 7. Check the brake pedal free play. Page 146 Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow from power at the top of the diagram to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another for example is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors Page 7137 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. Page 3619 10. Middle of Engine Page 3600 5. If spark plugs need to be replaced, select the spark plugs according to the designation on the cylinder head and the table shown. 6. Apply a small quantity of anti-seize compound to the plug threads, and screw the plugs into the cylinder head finger-tight. The torque them to 23 N.m (2.3 kgf.m,17 lbf.ft). NOTE: If a spark plug is to be reused, use it in the cylinder where the plug was originally located. Page 6343 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. Page 8780 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 8215 All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416 etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector or by a capital letter (A, B, C etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Connector Views that shows the connector terminals wire colors connector cavity numbers and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints shown on diagram [8] . Except for the DLC (data link connector) disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554 for example means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Locations Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Locations Relay And Control Unit Locations - Dashboard Page 7215 98. Blower Motor High Relay Page 1362 122. Fuel Consumption Display Select Switch Page 1807 Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box Part 2 Page 3362 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 2085 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. Page 1906 NO - Go to step 19. 19. Disconnect each of the components or the connectors below, one at a time, and check for continuity between PGM-FI main relay (IGP) 4P connector terminal No.1 and body ground. PGM-FI main relay (FUEL PUMP) - ECM connector B (25P) - Each injector 2P connector - Idle air control (IAC) valve 3P connector Is there continuity? YES - Go to step 20. NO - Replace the component that made continuity to body ground go away when disconnected. If the item is the ECM, update the ECM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM, replace the original ECM. Also replace the No.7 (15 A) fuse. 20. Disconnect the connectors of all these components. - PGM-FI main relay (FUEL PUMP) - ECM connector B (25P) - Injectors - Idle air control (IAC) valve 21. Check for continuity between PGM-FI main relay (IGP) 4P connector terminal No.2 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Repair short in the wire between the PGM-FI main relay (IGP) and each item. Also replace the No.7 (15 A) fuse. NO - Replace the PGM-FI main relay (IGP). Also replace the No.7 (15 A) fuse. 22. Inspect the No.2 (15 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box. Is the fuse OK? YES - Go to step 29. NO - Go to step 23. Page 9177 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. Page 1184 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 7228 47. In-car Temperature Sensor Page 8644 Splices Components Ground - "G" Page 3621 Intake Air Temperature Sensor: Description and Operation Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor The IAT sensor is a temperature dependent resistor (thermistor). The resistance of the thermistor decreases as the intake air temperature increases. Page 9035 Cavity Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity / terminal shown is # 6. Circuit Schematics Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box Page 6461 Fuse-to-components Index Image 6 Page 3049 7. Remove the rear clips from the middle bulkhead carpet. 8. Remove the under-cover (two bolts, two clips, and three screw clips). 9. Remove the intelligent power unit (I PU) lid (six Torx bolts and 17 hex bolts). 10. Measure the voltage between the junction board terminals. There should be 10 V or less. ^ If you have more than 10 V, there's a problem in the MA system. Look for and troubleshoot any DTCs before continuing. ^ If you have 10 V or less, continue to step 11. PGM-FI Main Relay Circuit Troubleshooting Fuel Pump Relay: Testing and Inspection PGM-FI Main Relay Circuit Troubleshooting PGM-FI Main Relay Circuit Troubleshooting 1. Turn the ignition switch OFF, then disconnect the PGM-FI main relay connectors. 2. Check for continuity between body ground and PGM-FI main relay diode 2P connector terminal No.2. Is there continuity? YES - Go to step 3. NO - Repair open in the wire between the PGM-FI main relay and G101. 3. Measure voltage between body ground and PGM-FI main relay (IGP) 4P connector terminal No.2. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 5. NO - Go to step 4. 4. Check for a blown No.7 (15 A) fuse in the underhood fuse/relay box. Is the fuse blown? YES - Repair the short in the wire between the PGM-FI main relay and the No.7 (15 A) fuse. NO - Repair the open in the wire between the PGM-FI main relay and the No.7 (15 A) fuse. Page 7314 Climate Control - Component Location Index Page 7854 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 9412 Wires Page 252 Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution diagram set to get a more detailed picture of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Page 728 204. TCM (CVT) Page 7409 Evaporator Temperature Sensor / Switch: Testing and Inspection Evaporator Temperature Sensor Test 1. Dip the sensor in ice water, and measure the resistance between its terminals. 2. Then pour hot water on the sensor, and check for a change in resistance. 3. Compare the resistance readings with the specifications shown in the graph; the resistance should be within the specifications. Page 10067 First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 5157 Crankshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation Camshaft Position (CMP) A and B (Top Dead Center (TDC) 1 and 2), and Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensors The CMPA (TDC 1) and CMPB (TDC 2) sensors detect the position of the No.1 cylinder as a reference for sequential fuel injection to each cylinder. The CKP sensor detects engine speed and determines ignition timing and timing for fuel injection of each cylinder. Page 678 11. Remove the mid-frame, then remove the front and rear IPU braces from the junction board. 12. Disconnect the high-voltage cables from the output terminals on the junction board, and wrap them with insulating tape. 13. Remove the battery module air duct mounting bolt, then push the duct forward. 14. Remove the mounting bolts from the battery module. Disconnect the connectors and the Y condenser terminal. NOTE: After disconnection, temporarily secure the Y condenser harness on the junction board. 15. Set the battery module lifting tool on the module, and install the six knurled bolts. Page 8559 - Use the 2-component type primer surfacer (gray) and a spray gun. - Follow the materials manufacturer's instructions. Drying NOTE: Take care not to let the heat lamp deform the bumper during the drying process. 6. Sanding After drying, wet sand the area of the intermediate coat. Use the #600 sandpaper. NOTE: Do not use #600 or less. 7. Air blowing /degreasing Use alcohol, a tack cloth, and wax and grease remover. Also clean and degrease the surfaces where the masking tape will be attached. Intermediate Coating Intermediate Coating NOTE: You must do this procedure on the PP parts of the bumper and side sill panel. 1. Masking Mask the area surrounding the damage to prevent overspray from the intermediate coat. Use masking tape and paper 2. Spraying top coat enamel - Spray the top coat enamel over the surface until the primer surfacer is fully covered. - Spray 2-3 coats to get 15-25 microns of thickness. - Use the 2-part polyester urethane top coat enamel and a spray gun. - Mix the top coat enamel with the additive and solvent, and in the correct ratio. - Follow the top coat manufacturer's instructions. Drying NOTE: Take care not to let the heat lamp deform the bumper during the drying process. After spraying top coat enamel, allow for 5-10 minutes of normal drying, then force dry it with infrared lamps or other industrial dryer. Page 1556 1. Place the vehicle on a commercially available, computerized, four-wheel alignment rack, and record the following measurements. Follow the equipment manufacturer's instructions. NOTE: Enter each reading in decimal degrees. Example 30' = 0.50. 2. If any measurement is out of specification, inspect the front suspension for any damage. Repair any damaged parts before continuing your diagnosis. 3. Determine how the front wheel camber is affecting the pull. Pick the combination of left- and right-front camber that best matches the vehicle you are repairing, then note the camber thrust direction for that combination: NOTE: ^ If the camber of both front wheels is negative, but one wheel is grossly more negative than the other, the camber thrust direction will be opposite the wheel with more negative camber (for example, if the left-front wheel is more negative, the camber thrust direction is right). ^ If the camber of both front wheels is positive, but one wheel is grossly more positive than the other, the camber thrust direction will be the same as the wheel with more positive camber (for example, if the left-front wheel is more positive, the camber thrust direction is left). 4. Determine how the camber needs to be adjusted. 5. Adjust the camber as needed. Front Camber Adjustment, Double Wishbone Suspension Page 3850 Idle Control System Idle Speed: Description and Operation Idle Control System Idle Control System The idle speed of the engine is controlled by the IAC (idle air control) valve: - After the engine starts, the IAC valve opens for a certain time. The amount of air is increased to raise the idle speed. - When the engine coolant temperature is low, the IAC valve is opened to obtain the proper fast idle speed. The amount of bypassed air is controlled in relation to engine coolant temperature to maintain the proper idle speed. Page 6561 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. Page 4959 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. Page 1372 9. Front of Engine Page 7000 7. Tighten the self-locking nut (A) and flange nut (B) to the specified torque values while holding the respective joint pins (C) with a hex wrench (D). 8. After five minutes, re-tighten the self-locking nut to the specified torque. 9. Reinstall the front wheels. Page 5564 Flywheel: Testing and Inspection Clutch Replacement Special Tools Required ^ Clutch alignment shaft 07JAF-PM7012A ^ Remover handle 07936-3710100 ^ Ring gear holder 07LAB-PV00100 or 07924-PD20003 ^ Driver 07749-0010000 ^ Attachment, 32 x 35 mm 07746-0010100 Flywheel Inspection 1. Inspect the ring gear teeth for wear and damage. 2. Inspect the clutch disc mating surface on the flywheel for wear, cracks, and burning. 3. Measure the flywheel (A) runout using a dial indicator (B) through at least two full turns engine installed. Push against the flywheel each time you turn it to take up the crankshaft thrust washer clearance. If the runout is more than the service limit, replace the flywheel and recheck the runout. Resurfacing the flywheel is not recommended. 4. Turn the inner race of the ball bearing (A) with your finger. The ball bearing should turn smoothly and quietly. Check that the ball bearing outer race fits tightly in the flywheel. If the race does not turn smoothly, quietly, or fit tight in the flywheel, replace the ball bearing.: Page 4857 Terminals - "T" Shielding Switches Fuses Page 8449 Page 8035 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: Page 3118 DTC P0158 thru P0400 Page 7534 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Page 4987 111. Rear Window Defogger, Fuel Cut, Radiator Fan Main (Climate Control) And Intermittent Wiper Relays Locations 49. Under Left Side of Dash (Honda Accessory) Page 7779 EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 7366 Diodes How to Identify Wiring Color-Coded Insulation Wire Color Service and Repair Synchronizer Hub: Service and Repair For further information regarding this component and the system that it is a part of, please refer to Manual Transmission/Transaxle; Service and Repair. Diagram Information and Instructions Variable Valve Timing Actuator: Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System Terminal Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown below is #6. Page 3079 DTC P1586 thru P1678 Page 3357 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. Description and Operation Hybrid Battery Service Switch: Description and Operation Battery Module Switch The battery module switch is connected in series to the battery module fuse. Always turn the battery module switch to the OFF position whenever service or checks are required on or around the high voltage circuits. Follow these steps exactly: 1. Remove the switch cover from the IPU lid, then turn the switch OFF. 2. Wait at least 5 minutes. 3. Remove the IPU lid. 4. Measure voltage at the output terminals. Make sure the voltage is low enough for safe operation before any service is done to the car. Page 5665 130. Transmission Housing (CVT) Page 2560 Temperature Gauge: Testing and Inspection Coolant Temperature Gauge Troubleshooting Before testing, check the No. 6 (7.5 A) fuse and No. 18 (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box. 1. Start the engine and check the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL). Does the MIL come on? YES - Troubleshooting the DTC, and recheck. NO - Inspect the connector and socket terminals of the gauge assembly connectors. If the terminals look OK, replace the printed circuit board in the gauge assembly. Page 9708 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 10137 EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 3904 ECM/PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector C (31P) Part 1 Disassembly and Reassembly Starter Motor: Service and Repair Disassembly and Reassembly 1. Remove the starter. Disassembly/Reassembly 2. Disassemble the starter as shown. 3. Reassemble the starter in reverse order of disassembly. Page 6636 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: Locations Body Control Module: Locations 109. Top Front of Battery Module 110. Top Rear of Battery Module Locations Camshaft Position Sensor: Locations PGM-FI System - Component Location Index Page 916 30. Clutch Pedal Position Switch (M/T) Page 7332 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Locations 83. Under Driver's Seat Page 2073 Terminals - "T" Shielding Switches Fuses Page 862 25. Brake Fluid Level Switch Page 8557 - Be careful not to deform and damage the parts when force drying. Preprocessing of Painting Preprocessing of Painting 1. Sanding Sand the damage area flat and smooth. Shallow Scratch: Use a flexible block and #240-#400-#600 sandpaper. Hole / Deep Gouge: Cut out and make any torn or burred area flat. Use a knife, flexible block, and #180-#240 sandpapers. 2. Air blowing/degreasing Clean the damaged area throughly. Use alcohol and wax and grease remover. Undercoating Undercoating 1. Spraying primer Primer is used to fill cavities in the putty and primer surfacer. Spray primer on the exposed area. - Spray the 2-3 coats of primer on 2-3 coats over the area you applied putty. - Apply primer to the back of the bumper if the damage is a tear or hole. Bumper primer (Reference) - Warm the primer if the ambient temperature is below 50 degrees F (10 degrees C). - Follow the bumper primer manufacturer's instructions. - Use the spray gun and brush. Drying Page 1986 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 880 84. Middle of Floor Page 9526 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Campaign - ECM Update Engine Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins Campaign - ECM Update 00-042 April 5, 2000 Applies To: 2000 Insight - From VIN JHMZE1...YT000001 thru JHMZE1...YT000440 Product Update: Insight ECM BACKGROUND The engine may not start it the ambient temperature is below 0°F (-20°C). CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION All owners of affected vehicles will be mailed a notification of this campaign. An example of a customer notification is shown. CORRECTIVE ACTION Replace the ECM (engine control module) with an improved unit. After the ECM replacement, the immobilizer system must be reinitialized. Make sure you have all the customer's keys. Page 6645 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 1192 EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 8022 Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow from power at the top of the diagram to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another for example is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors Page 3216 Engine Control Module: Service and Repair Monitors, Trips, and/or Drive Cycle (Readiness Codes) How to Set Readiness Codes Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) Indication (In relation to Readiness Codes) The vehicle has certain "readiness codes" that are part of the on-board diagnostics for the emissions systems. If the vehicle's battery has been disconnected or gone dead, if the DTCs have been cleared, or if the ECM has been reset, these codes are reset. In some states, part of the emissions testing is to make sure these codes are set to complete. If all of them are not set to complete, the vehicle may fail the emission test, or the test cannot be finished. To check if the readiness codes are complete, turn the ignition switch ON (II), but do not start the engine. The MIL will come on for 15 - 20 seconds. If it then goes off, the readiness codes are complete. If it blinks several times, one or more readiness codes are not complete. To set readiness codes from incomplete to complete, do the procedure for the appropriate code. Catalytic Converter Monitor and Readiness Code NOTE: - Do not turn the ignition switch off during the procedure. - All readiness codes are cleared when the battery is disconnected or when the ECM is cleared with the OBD II scan tool or Honda PGM Tester. - Low ambient temperatures or excessive stop-and-go traffic may increase the drive time needed to switch the readiness code from incomplete to complete. - The readiness code will not switch to complete until all the enable criteria are met. - If a fault in the secondary HO2S system caused the MIL to come on, the readiness code cannot be set to complete until you correct the fault. Enable Criteria - ECT at 158 °F (70 °C) or higher. - Intake air temperature (IAT) at 20 °F (-7 °C) or higher. - Vehicle speed is steady, and vehicle speed sensor (VSS) reads more then 25 mph (40 km/h). Procedure 1. Connect the scan tool to the vehicle's data link connector (DLC), and bring up the tool's generic OBD II mode. 2. Start the engine. 3. Test-drive the vehicle under stop-and-go conditions with short periods of steady cruise. After about 5 miles (8 km), the readiness code should switch from incomplete to complete. 4. If the readiness code is still set to incomplete, check for a temporary DTC. If there is no DTC, one or more of the enable criteria were probably not met; repeat the procedure. Evaporative Emissions (EVAP) Control System Monitor and Readiness code NOTE: - All readiness code are cleared when the battery is disconnected or when the ECM is cleared with the OBD II scan tool or Honda PGM Tester. - The enable criteria must be repeated if the intake air temperature (IAT) drops lower then 36 °F (2 °C) from its value at engine start up. Enable Criteria - At engine start up, ECT and IAT are higher then 32 °F (0 °C), but lower then 95 °F (35 °C). - At engine start up, the ECT and IAT are within 12 °F (7 °C) of each other. Procedure 1. Connect the scan tool to the vehicle's data link connector (DLC), and bring up the tool's generic OBD II mode. 2. Start the engine. 3. Test-drive the vehicle under stop-and-go conditions with short periods of steady cruise. After about 2.5 miles (4 km), the readiness code should switch from incomplete to complete. 4. If the readiness code is still set to incomplete, check for a temporary DTC. If there is no DTC, one or more of the enable criteria were probably not met; repeat the procedure. Air Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor Monitor and Readiness Code NOTE: - Do not turn the ignition switch off during the procedure. - All readiness codes are cleared when the battery is disconnected or when the ECM is cleared with the OBD II scan tool or Honda PGM Tester. Enable Criteria - ECT at 140 °F (60 °C) or higher. Page 623 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 4815 3. Using the tool, loosen the fuel pump locknut (A), and remove the fuel pump. 4. Measure the resistance between the No.1 and No.2 terminals with the float at E (EMPTY), 1/2 (HALF FULL), and F (FULL) positions. If you do not get the given readings, replace the fuel gauge sending unit (A). 5. Install the pants in the reverse order of removal with a new base gasket and new quick connect retainers, then check these items: - When connecting the wire harness, make sure the connection is secure and the connector (B) is firmly locked into place. Page 219 Tail Lamp Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relay Test Normally-open type A: 1. Turn the battery module switch OFF, and measure the voltage. 2. Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is disconnected. A/C compressor clutch relay - Air fuel ratio sensor relay - Condenser fan relay - Daytime running lights relay (Canada) - Headlight relay 1 - Headlight relay 2 - High speed battery module fan control relay - High speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - High voltage conductor control relay - Horn relay - Ignition hold relay - Low speed battery module fan control relay - Low speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - Power window relay - Radiator fan relay - Rear window defogger relay - Reverse relay - Starter cut relay Page 8494 5. Reconnect the 18P connector to the keyless door lock control unit, and make these input tests at the connector. - If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system. - If all the input tests prove OK, the control unit must be faulty; replace the keyless door lock control unit. Page 4046 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 1878 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. Page 4272 ECM Inputs and Outputs at Connector C (31P) Part 1 Page 10243 Rubber Dams, Fasteners, and Spacers Installation - Attach the rubber dams, the fasteners, and the spacers with adhesive tape. - Be sure the rubber dams, fasteners, and spacers line up with the alignment marks. Fasteners (body side) Installation/Body Primer Application Attach the fasteners with adhesive type. Page 24 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. Page 3973 Splices Components Ground - "G" Emissions/Engine Controls - MIL ON/DTC P1457 (EVAP) Engine Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins Emissions/Engine Controls - MIL ON/DTC P1457 (EVAP) 03-001 January 28, 2003 Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED MIL Comes On With DTC P1457: EVAP Bypass Solenoid Valve Failure SYMPTOM The MIL is on, and DTC P1457 [leak detected in EVAP control system (EVAP control canister system)] is set. PROBABLE CAUSE The EVAP bypass solenoid valve can fail due to corrosion. The solenoid valve may get water inside. If the water contains road salt, the solenoid windings could corrode, causing the valve to fail. In a few rare instances, the corrosion could be severe enough to cause an internal short in the solenoid valve, which could damage the ECM/PCM. If this happens, both the bypass solenoid valve and the ECM/PCM would need to be replaced. Vehicles driven in the Northeastern part of the U.S. are more likely to have this problem because of the salting of roads during the winter months. Vehicles driven where salt is not used on the roads are much less likely to have this problem. VEHICLES AFFECTED 1998-02 Accord 1998-00 Civic 1998-01 CR-V 2000-02 Insight 1999-03 Odyssey 2003 Pilot 2000-03 S2000 CORRECTIVE ACTION Test and, if necessary, replace the EVAP bypass solenoid valve. Replace the ECM/PCM if needed. PARTS INFORMATION Refer to the parts catalog for the appropriate part number and Honda code. WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Failed Part: EVAP Bypass Solenoid Valve: Page 8238 Power Trunk / Liftgate Lock Actuator: Electrical Diagrams Hatch Opener Image 134 Locations Horn Switch: Locations Horn - Component Location Index Page 7818 33. Seat Belt Switch, Driver's Page 2339 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 6379 Cavity Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity / terminal shown is # 6. Circuit Schematics Locations EGR Valve: Locations EGR System - Component Location Index 10. Middle of Engine Engine/Motor Controls - IMA Indicator ON/DTC's Set Motor Control Module (MCM): All Technical Service Bulletins Engine/Motor Controls - IMA Indicator ON/DTC's Set 02-035 July 23, 2002 Applies To: 2000 Insight - ALL 2001 Insight With M/T - From JHMZE13...1T00001 thru JHMZE13...1T01925 IMA Indicator Comes On With DTC 63 or P1448 (Supersedes 02-035, IMA System Stores DTC 63 or P1448, dated June 25, 2002) Updated information is shown by black bars and asterisks. SYMPTOM The IMA (Integrated Motor Assist) system indicator is on and DIG 63 (P1448) is stored in the MCM memory. PROBABLE CAUSE The MCM (motor control module) software incorrectly reports an IMA battery cooling problem. CORRECTIVE ACTION Replace the battery condition monitor module and the motor control module. PARTS INFORMATION ECU Module Kit: P/N 06060-PHM-305 H/C 6912901 WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. * Operation Number: 118122 * Flat Rate Time: 0.8 hour Failed Part: P/N 1K100-PHM-010 H/C 6377170 Defect Code: 032 Contention Code: C99 Template ID: 02-035A Skill Level: Repair Technician Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. DIAGNOSIS Page 1119 EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Locations 133. Middle of Floor (CVT) Page 9963 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Page 5150 Camshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation Camshaft Position (CMP) A and B (Top Dead Center (TDC) 1 and 2), and Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensors The CMPA (TDC 1) and CMPB (TDC 2) sensors detect the position of the No.1 cylinder as a reference for sequential fuel injection to each cylinder. The CKP sensor detects engine speed and determines ignition timing and timing for fuel injection of each cylinder. Page 4025 All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416 etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector or by a capital letter (A, B, C etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Connector Views that shows the connector terminals wire colors connector cavity numbers and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints shown on diagram [8] . Except for the DLC (data link connector) disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554 for example means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Page 5813 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. Locations Canister Purge Volume Control Valve: Locations EVAP System - Component Location Index Page 3946 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 1477 130. Transmission Housing (CVT) How To Replace Connector Terminals Multiple Junction Connector: Service and Repair How To Replace Connector Terminals HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. Page 8734 Audible Warning Device: Diagnostic Aids Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Page 6301 Fuse Block: Connector Locations Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box Page 10180 Relay And Control Unit Locations - Dashboard Page 10012 Spot Lamp: Diagnostic Aids Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Page 5767 Hydraulic Control Assembly - Antilock Brakes: Service and Repair ABS Modulator-Control Unit Removal and Installation NOTE: ^ Do not spill brake fluid on the vehicle; it may damage the paint; if brake fluid gets on the paint, wash it off immediately with water. ^ Take care not to damage or deform the brake lines during removal and installation. ^ To prevent the brake fluid from flowing, plug and cover the hose ends and joints with a shop towel or equivalent material. Removal 1. Pull up the lock (C) of the ABS control unit 25P connector (B), then disconnect the connector. 2. Disconnect the six brake lines. 3. Remove the two 6 mm nuts. 4. Remove the ABS modulator-control unit (A). Installation 1. Install the ABS modulator-control unit, then tighten the two 6 mm nuts. 2. Align the connecting surface of the ABS control unit 25P connector. 3. Push in the lock of the ABS control unit 25P connector until you hear it click into place, then connect the connector. 4. Bleed the brake system, starting with the front wheels. 5. Start the engine, and check that the ABS indicator goes off. 6. Test-drive the vehicle, and check that the ABS indicator does not come on. Page 2233 Intake Manifold: Service and Repair Intake Manifold Removal/Installation Description and Operation Ignition Timing Connector: Description and Operation Ignition Timing Control The ECM contains the memory for basic ignition timing at various engine speeds and manifold absolute pressure. It also adjusts the timing according to engine coolant temperature. Page 8895 Wire Color Abbreviations Page 9230 Gauges - Component Location Index Locations Power Mirror Switch: Locations Power Mirrors - Component Location Index Page 7519 Cavity Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity / terminal shown is # 6. Circuit Schematics Page 4013 Relay And Control Unit Locations - Dashboard Page 5438 19. Verify that the shift cable end (A) is properly installed on the mounting stud (B). 20. If improperly installed, remove the shift cable from the shift cable bracket base, and reinstall the shift cable. Do not install the shift cable end on the mounting stud while the shift cable is on the shift cable bracket base. 21. Install and tighten the nut. 22. Remove the 6.0 mm (0.24 inch) pin that was installed to hold the shift lever. 23. Move the shift lever to each position, and verify that the A/T gear position indicator follows the transmission range switch. 24. Allow the wheels to rotate freely. 25. Start the engine, and check the shift lever operation in all gears. 26. Reinstall the front console. Page 2246 12. Oil Pressure Switch Page 6704 Fuse-to-components Index Image 6 Page 5170 7. Front of Engine Page 6989 15. Press the wheel bearing inner race (A) out of the hub (B) using the special tool, a commercially available bearing separator (C), and a press. 16. Remove the splash guard (A) from the knuckle (B). 17. Remove the flange bolts (A), and remove the hub bearing unit (B) from the knuckle. 18. Wash the knuckle and hub thoroughly in high flash point solvent before reassembly. Page 7365 Terminals - "T" Shielding Switches Fuses Page 6741 ^ If the wheels are pointed to the right, shorten the driver's side tie-rod, and lengthen the passenger's side. ^ If the wheels are pointed to the left, shorten the passenger's side tie-rod, and lengthen the driver's side. ^ Each 360° turn of the tie-rod equals about 8 mm of steering wheel adjustment. For example, a steering wheel is off-center by 4 mm with the front wheels pointed right (when the steering wheel is centered). To correct the off-center, shorten the driver's side tie-rod by a half-turn, and lengthen the passenger's side tie-rod by a half-turn. 4. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC. Front Wheel Bearing: Service and Repair Front Knuckle/Hub/Hub Bearing Unit Replacement Special Tools Required Hub assembly driver attachment 07GAF-SD40200 - Ball joint remover, 28 mm 07MAC-SL00200 - Hub dis/assembly tool 07965-SA70100 - Support base 07965-SD90100 NOTICE: To avoid damage, do not strike aluminum parts with a metal hammer. If necessary, tap gently with a plastic tipped hammer. NOTE: Nuts and bolts with the [star] mark are special corrosion-resistant Dacro fasteners. Use the same type if replacement is necessary. 1. Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper location. Page 6058 11. Use the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) with version 1.011.014 or later software to clear any set DTCs. 12. Reinstall the IPU lid and the mid-frame cover bolts. Torque the bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb-ft). 13. Reinstall the right trunk shelf support. Torque the bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb-ft). 14. Remove the battery module switch locking cover, and flip the switch to ON. Reinstall the locking cover. 15. Reinstall the battery module switch cover. 16. Reinstall the cargo floor mat. 17. Return the vehicle to your customer. Advise your customer that it is OK to drive the vehicle as is until the replacement parts arrive, but the vehicle will have reduced power (no IMA assist). 18. Order a battery module and, if needed, a BCM, an MCM, or both. REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Remove the battery module from the vehicle (see page 12-113 of the service manual). (In ISIS, use the keyword BAT MOD, and select Battery Module Removal/Installation from the list.) 2. Remove the lifting tool from the battery module. 3. Remove the mounting bolts for the MCM and the BCM (eight total). Unplug the electrical connectors (five for the MCM and three for the BCM), then remove the modules. 4. Install the MCM and the BCM in the new battery module. Use the original MCM and BCM if no replacement was needed; otherwise, use the appropriate replacement parts. Torque the mounting bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb-ft). 5. Install the lifting tool on the battery module. 6. With someone to help you, carefully lift the battery module into the vehicle, and set it down into position. Remove the lifting tool. 7. Plug in the connectors, and install the Y condenser harness. Then install the mounting bolts. Torque the bolts to 24 N.m (17 lb-ft). 8. Install the battery module air duct. Torque the bolt to 9.8 N~m (7.2 lb-ft). 9. Connect the high voltage cables to the junction board. Torque the bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb-ft). 10. Install the front and rear IPU braces and the mid-frame. Torque the bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb-ft). 11. Install the foam inserts. Locations 133. Middle of Floor (CVT) Page 8010 Example of Customer Letter April 2000 Product Update: Insight Radio Reception Dear Insight Owner: We have sent you this letter to notify you of a potential problem with your Insight and what you need to do to have it repaired. What is the problem? If you are listening to an AM radio station, you may hear static when you use the rear window wiper. This is caused by inadequate grounding of the rear window wiper motor. What should you do? Call your local Honda dealer and make an appointment to have your Insight updated. The dealer will add a ground to the rear window wiper motor. This update will be done free of charge. Please plan to leave your car at the dealer for half a day to allow them flexibility in scheduling. What to do if you feel this notice is in error. Our records show that you are the current owner or lessee of a 2000 Insight involved in this update. If this is not the case, or the name/address information is incorrect, please fill out and return the enclosed, postage-paid Information Change Card. This will help us update our records. If you have questions. If you have any questions about this notice, or need assistance with contacting a Honda dealer, please call the Honda Consumer Affairs Department at (800)999-1009. Thank you for your cooperation. Disclaimer Page 3431 31. Left Front Side of Engine Compartment Page 1080 Fuel Gauge Sender: Testing and Inspection Fuel Gauge Sending Unit Test/Replacement Special Tools Required Adjustable ring wrench 07XAA-001010A NOTE: This article has been updated as per TSB SN030415. NOTE: For the fuel gauge system circuit diagram, refer to the Gauges Circuit Diagram. Test 1. Check the No.6 fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box before testing. 2. Remove the middle floor panel. 3. Remove the access panel from the floor. 4. Turn the ignition switch OFF, then disconnect the fuel pump 5P connector. 5. Measure voltage between the fuel pump 5P connector terminals No.1 and No.2 with the ignition switch ON (II). There should be Battery Voltage. - If the voltage is as specified, go to step 6. - If the voltage is not as specified, check for: an open in the YEL/BLK or BLK wire. - poor ground (G502). 6. Turn the ignition switch OFF. Remove the No.18 (7.5 A) fuse from the under-dash fuse/relay box for at least 10 seconds, then reinstall it. 7. Install a 2 Ohms resistor between the fuel pump 5P connector terminals No.1 and No.2, then turn the ignition switch ON (II). 8. Check that the pointer of the fuel gauge starts moving toward the "F" mark. - If the pointer of the fuel gauge does not move at all, replace the gauge. - If the gauge is OK, inspect the fuel gauge sending unit. NOTE: Turn the ignition switch OFF before the pointer reaches "F" on the gauge dial. Failure to do so may damage the fuel gauge. - The fuel gauge is a bobbin (cross-coil) type, hence the fuel level is continuously indicated even when the ignition switch is OFF, and the pointer moves more slowly than that of a bimetal type. Replacement 1. Remove the fuel tank. 2. Disconnect the quick-connect fittings from the fuel pump. Page 10001 Wire Color Abbreviations Page 9037 All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416 etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector or by a capital letter (A, B, C etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Connector Views that shows the connector terminals wire colors connector cavity numbers and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints shown on diagram [8] . Except for the DLC (data link connector) disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554 for example means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics A/C - Refrigerant Leak Detection Refrigerant: Technical Service Bulletins A/C - Refrigerant Leak Detection 07-030 October 12, 2007 Applies To: ALL Vehicles With Conventional A/C Compressors A/C Leak Detection (Supersedes 07-030, dated June 15, 2007, to update the information marked by asterisks) The OPTIMAX Jr. (TM)A/C Leak Detection Kit for Honda vehicles, P/N TRP124893, is a new required tool. The kit is used to add small amounts of dye to A/C systems to help locate smaller leaks that an electronic leak detector might not find. When searching for leaks, always begin by using an electronic leak detector. Refer to Service Bulletin 97-027, Denso HLD-100 Halogen Leak Detector; for tips on using this tool, then follow up with the OPTIMAX Jr. This new detection kit complements but does not replace the electronic detector. The kit contains: ^ TRP8640CS, OPTIMAX Jr. (TM) cordless, fluorescent leak detection flashlight lamp (includes 3 standard AA batteries) ^ TRP38600601, (6) 0.06 oz. (1.7 g) Tracer-Stick(R) R134a/PAG A/C dye capsules with ID labels ^ TRP3887, R-134a Universal Connect Set(TM) ^ TRP120884, GLO-AWAY(TM) dye cleaner ^ TRP9940, fluorescence-enhancing glasses ^ TRP1143, (1) empty Tracer-Stick dye capsule ORDERING INFO *One OPTIMAX Jr. A/C Leak Detection Kit was shipped to each current dealer as a required special tool. Additional kits and replacement capsules may be ordered through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program. On the iN, click on Service, Service Bay, Tool and Equipment Program, Online Catalog tab, and Air Conditioning Equipment, or call.* NOTICE ^ Do not use leak-trace dye in any Honda hybrid vehicle equipped with a dual-scroll compressor This can increase the chance of electric shock. The compressor is easily identified by the orange high-voltage cable that is connected to the compressor body. ^ Only Tracer-Stick single-dose fluorescent dye capsules from Tracer Products (Tracerline(R)) are approved for use in Honda vehicles. Other dyes contain solvents that may contaminate the system's refrigerant oil, leading to component failure. ^ Adding excessive amounts of dye can lead to compressor damage and failure. USING THE OPTIMAX JR. Page 2468 - Taillight relay Five-terminal type: Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 5 terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 4 terminals when power is disconnected. - Fan control relay - Low beam cut relay (Canada) - Windshield wiper intermittent relay Locations Heating/Cooling Unit View Page 213 Low Beam Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relay Test Five-terminal type: Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 5 terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 4 terminals when power is disconnected. - Fan control relay - Low beam cut relay (Canada) - Windshield wiper intermittent relay Page 4195 DTC P2240 thru U0073 Page 7800 Seat Belt Tensioner: Service Precautions Airbag / Seat Belt Tensioner Handling and Storage Do not try to disassemble an airbag or a seat belt tensioner. They have no serviceable parts. Once an airbag or a seat belt tensioner have been deployed, they cannot be repaired or reused. For temporary storage of an airbag or a seat belt tensioner during service, please observe the following precautions: * Store the removed airbag with the pad surface up. The driver's/front passenger's airbag connectors and seat belt tensioner connectors have a built-in short contact. WARNING: If the airbag is improperly stored face down, accidental deployment could propel the unit with enough force to cause serious injury. * Store the removed airbag on a secure flat surface away from any high heat source (exceeding 212 °F/100 °C) and free of any oil, grease, detergent or water. * Improper handling or storage can internally damage the airbag and seat belt tensioner, making them inoperative. If you suspect the airbag and seat belt tensioner have been damaged, install new units and refer to the Deployment/Disposal Procedures for disposing of the damaged units. See: Air Bag Systems/Air Bag/Service and Repair Page 377 DTC P0563 thru P0748 Page 6932 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 5726 199. Transmission Range Switch (CVT) Page 2368 Idle Speed: Description and Operation Idle Stop Switch (CVT Model) Idle Stop Switch (CVT model) The idle stop switch signals the ECM when the brake pedal is pressed. Page 4686 Wire Color Coding Distinct Of Circuit By Wire Base Color All wires have color-coded insulation. Wires belonging to a system's main harness will have a single color. Wires belonging to a system's sub-circuits will have a colored stripe. Striped wires use the codes found in the chart to show wire size and colors. Abbreviations are used to indicate wire color within a circuit diagram. Wire Color Abbreviations The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics: WHT................................... White YEL................................... Yellow BLK................................... Black BLU................................... Blue GRN................................... Green RED................................... Red ORN................................... Orange PNK................................... Pink BRN................................... Brown GRY................................... Gray PUR................................... Purple LT BLU................................... Light Blue LT GRN................................... Light Green The wire insulation has one color or one color with another color stripe. The second color is the stripe. How to Identify Connector Terminals How to Identify Connector Terminals Page 6209 3. Inspect the armature for wear or damage from contact with the permanent magnet. If there is wear or damage, replace the armature. 4. Check the commutator (A) surface. If the surface is dirty or burnt, resurface with emery cloth or a lathe within the following specifications, or recondition with # 500 or # 600 sandpaper (B). 5. Check the commutator diameter. If the diameter is below the service limit, replace the armature. Commutator Diameter Standard (New): 28.0 - 28.1 mm (1.102 - 1.106 in.) Service Limit: 27.5 mm (1.083 in.) 6. Measure the commutator (A) runout. - If the commutator runout is within the service limit, check the commutator for carbon dust or brass chips between the segments. - If the commutator runout is not within the service limit, replace the armature. Engine/Motor Controls - IMA Indicator ON/DTC's Set Battery Condition Monitor: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine/Motor Controls - IMA Indicator ON/DTC's Set 02-035 July 23, 2002 Applies To: 2000 Insight - ALL 2001 Insight With M/T - From JHMZE13...1T00001 thru JHMZE13...1T01925 IMA Indicator Comes On With DTC 63 or P1448 (Supersedes 02-035, IMA System Stores DTC 63 or P1448, dated June 25, 2002) Updated information is shown by black bars and asterisks. SYMPTOM The IMA (Integrated Motor Assist) system indicator is on and DIG 63 (P1448) is stored in the MCM memory. PROBABLE CAUSE The MCM (motor control module) software incorrectly reports an IMA battery cooling problem. CORRECTIVE ACTION Replace the battery condition monitor module and the motor control module. PARTS INFORMATION ECU Module Kit: P/N 06060-PHM-305 H/C 6912901 WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. * Operation Number: 118122 * Flat Rate Time: 0.8 hour Failed Part: P/N 1K100-PHM-010 H/C 6377170 Defect Code: 032 Contention Code: C99 Template ID: 02-035A Skill Level: Repair Technician Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. DIAGNOSIS Capacity Specifications Engine Oil: Capacity Specifications Engine Oil Engine overhaul ................................................................................................................................... ............................................................. 3.0L (3.2 Qt) Oil change including oil filter ................................................................................................................ ........................................................... 2.5L (2.6 Qt) Oil change without oil filter ................................................................................................................... ........................................................... 2.3L (2.4 Qt) Page 6374 Connectors - "C" Page 2909 170. Voltage Converter Module Page 6166 Clutch Switch: Adjustments Clutch Pedal and Clutch Switch Adjustment NOTE: The clutch is self-adjusting to compensate for wear. - If there is no clearance between the master cylinder piston and push rod, the release bearing is held against the diaphragm spring, which can result in clutch slippage or other clutch problems. 1. Loosen locknut (A), and back off the adjusting bolt (B) until it no longer touches the clutch pedal (C). 2. Loosen locknut (D), and turn the push rod (E) in or out to get the specified stroke (F) and height (G) at the clutch pedal. Clutch Pedal Stroke: 130 - 140 mm (5.12 - 5.51 inch) Clutch Pedal Height: 192 mm (7.56 inch) to the floor 3. Tighten locknut (D). 4. Turn the adjusting bolt (B) in until it contacts the clutch pedal (C). 5. Turn the adjusting bolt (B) in an additional 3/4 to 1 turn. 6. Tighten locknut (A). 7. Loosen locknut (H) and the clutch interlock switch (1). 8. Fully depress the clutch pedal. 9. Release the clutch pedal 15 - 20 mm (0.59 - 0.79 inch) from the fully depressed position, and hold it there. Adjust the position of the clutch interlock switch (1) so that the engine will start with the clutch pedal in this position. 10. Tighten locknut (H). Page 9047 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 4858 Diodes How to Identify Wiring Color-Coded Insulation Wire Color Page 6125 11. Remove the mid-frame, then remove the front and rear IPU braces from the junction board. 12. Disconnect the high-voltage cables from the output terminals on the junction board, and wrap them with insulating tape. 13. Remove the battery module air duct mounting bolt, then push the duct forward. 14. Remove the mounting bolts from the battery module. Disconnect the connectors and the Y condenser terminal. NOTE: After disconnection, temporarily secure the Y condenser harness on the junction board. 15. Set the battery module lifting tool on the module, and install the six knurled bolts. Page 655 Air Bag Control Module: Service and Repair SRS Unit Replacement Removal 1. Disconnect the battery negative cable, and wait at least 3 minutes before beginning work. 2. Disconnect the airbag connectors and seat belt tensioner connectors. 3. Remove the front console. 4. Remove the cover (A), then disconnect the floor wire harness 18P (B) and 8P (C) connectors from the SRS unit (D). 5. Remove the three Torx bolts (A) from the SRS unit (B), then pull out the SRS unit. Installation 1. Install the new SRS unit (A) with Torx bolts (B), then connect the floor wire harness 18P (C) and 8P (D) connectors to the SRS unit; push them into position until they click. NOTE: When tightening the Torx bolts to the specified torque after replacement, be careful to turn them in so that their heads rest squarely on the brackets. 2. Reinstall the front console. 3. Reconnect the airbag connectors and seat belt tensioner connectors. 4. Reconnect the battery negative cable. Page 7983 Page 10139 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. Page 1772 5. Refill the master cylinder reservoir to the MAX (upper) level line. Page 8737 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. Starting System - Unable To Key In Ignition Switch Ignition Lock: Technical Service Bulletins Starting System - Unable To Key In Ignition Switch Can't Turn Ignition Switch? Check for Locked Steering Got a service customer complaining he or she can't turn the ignition switch to start the engine? The reason could just be the steering column lock pin is engaged with the front wheels turned. Here's what typically happens: Some folks use the steering wheel to help support themselves while climbing in or out of the vehicle. This is very common among elderly or disabled drivers. Doing this turns the front wheels, which twists the tires against the ground. The twisted tires apply torque to the steering column. With the ignition switch in LOCK (0), the steering column lock pin is engaged. But the applied torque on the steering column binds the lock pin, making it tough to turn the ignition switch. The ignition switch won't turn to ON (II) if the lock pin isn't disengaged from the steering column. Tell your customer there's nothing wrong with the ignition switch itself. All he or she needs to do is turn the steering wheel from side to side while turning the switch. This usually releases the lock pin so the engine can be started. In some cases, though, your customer may need to give a good tug on the wheel. This could easily happen when parking on a hill and the wheels are turned sharply before the engine is shut off. Page 7979 ^ ALO/BOA - Your order has been allocated, but not released for shipment. ^ REL/BOR - Your order has been picked, packed, and shipped. ^ INV - Your order has been invoiced to your dealer parts account. CORE RETURN INFORMATION Service Technician: 1. If the customer's media (CD, CD magazine, DVD, DVD-A, or cassette tape) is stuck inside the faulty unit, fill out a Customer Media Return Label (reorder number Y0325), and attach it to the unit. The manufacturer will remove the media, and mail it back to your dealership. 2. Use the pre paid shipping label. Each audio supplier provides a prepaid shipping label with the remanufactured audio unit. Return the core using this label to ensure it is received at the appropriate location for credit. Use the pre paid shipping labels to return audio cores to authorized locations only; do not use them for any other purpose. If you need additional prepaid shipping labels, contact Remanufactured Parts Operations. ^ Complete the shipping label with your dealership information. ^ Pack one audio unit per box, and use a separate shipping label for each one. ^ On the line requesting Your Internal Reference Information, enter YOUR DEALER NUMBER and the WARRANTY CLAIM NUMBER. 3. On the repair order, write down the warranty claim number, the original part number, the serial numbers from both the faulty and remanufactured units, and the return tracking number. 4. Ship the faulty unit in the same box the remanufactured unit came in. Make sure you include this required paperwork: ^ A copy of the Core Return Update Acknowledgement from the iN. ^ A copy of the warranty audio order. NOTE: When the Remanufacturing Center gets the faulty unit, your warranty audio order will be updated to indicate that the core was received. If the core is received 31-60 days from the order date, and you have been debited a core loss charge, your dealership will be credited back, less a $250 late fee. OUT-OF-WARRANTY REPAIR (AUDIO, NAVIGATION, AND RES UNITS PRODUCED IN 1998 OR LATER) NOTE: If you are making a repair or exchange because of a service bulletin or service campaign, do not use OUT-OF-WARRANTY procedures. Refer to IN-WARRANTY EXCHANGE for more information. Service Advisor: 1. Give your customer an estimate for repairing the unit (see step 6), plus the labor cost to replace it. For an Alpine unit, your customer has the option of contacting Alpine Electronics directly. Alpine's customer service number is 800-421-2284, Ext. 860304. Service Technician: 2. Remove the failed unit: ^ Refer to the appropriate component section of the service manual or, Page 2328 Cavity Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity / terminal shown is # 6. Circuit Schematics Page 1881 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. Page 131 Climate Control - Component Location Index Page 1841 174. Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box Part 2 Page 328 DTC P0A94 thru P0157 Page 3459 Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor: Description and Operation Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor The MAP sensor converts manifold absolute pressure into electrical signals to the ECM. Page 544 Wires Page 2121 Table Note: Use the crank bore codes and crank journal codes to select the appropriate replacement bearings from the table. Main Bearing Cap Bolts / Tightening Sequence Main Bearing Cap Bolt Tightening Sequence Main Bearing Caps Torque ................................................................................................................................................. ..................... 25 Nm (2.5 kgf-m, 18 ft. lbs.) + 60°. Page 5914 6. If the clearance is incorrect, loosen the star locknut (A), and turn the adjuster (B) in or out to adjust. ^ Adjust the clearance while the specified vacuum is applied to the booster. ^ Hold the clevis (C) while adjusting. 7. Tighten the star locknut securely. 8. Remove the special tool (D). 9. Check the pushrod length (A) as shown if the booster is removed. If the length is incorrect, loosen the pushrod locknut (B), and turn the clevis (C) in or out to adjust. 10. Install the master cylinder. Page 3747 PARTS INFORMATION Engine Control Module: P/N 06380-PHM-A00, H/C 6441117 WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Carefully remove the passenger's side door sill trim. 2. Remove the two carpet hold-down clips on the door sill. 3. Remove the carpet hold-down clip in the passenger's footwell under the glove box. Pull back the carpet. 4. Remove the ECM cover mounting nuts. 5. Pivot the lower edge of the ECM cover off the mounting studs. Lift the upper edge of the cover off the mounting studs, then pull the cover down and back so it clears the evaporator drain tube. 6. Remove the two bolts mounting the ECM to the cover. Disconnect the ECM connectors. 7. Install the new ECM in the reverse order of removal. 8. Reinstall the carpet and the door sill trim. Page 9161 All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416 etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector or by a capital letter (A, B, C etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Connector Views that shows the connector terminals wire colors connector cavity numbers and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints shown on diagram [8] . Except for the DLC (data link connector) disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554 for example means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Recall - Emissions/ECM Replacement Technical Service Bulletin # 02-081 Date: 021217 Recall - Emissions/ECM Replacement 02-081 December 17, 2002 Applies To: 2000 Insight - ALL 2001 Insight with M/T - ALL Emissions Recall: Insight ECM BACKGROUND The ECM does not correctly identify all malfunctions of the air/fuel ratio sensor (sensor 1). Because of this, the vehicle does not meet state and federal emissions regulations. CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION All owners of affected vehicles will be mailed a notification of this campaign. The customer notification letter is shown in this service bulletin. CORRECTIVE ACTION Replace the ECM. After you replace the ECM, reinitialize the immobilizer system, and do the idle learn procedure. PARTS INFORMATION WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION Operation Number: 122124 Flat Rate Time: 1.0 hour Failed Part: P/N 37820-PHM-A01 H/C 6344626 Defect Code: 5BL Contention Code: L78 Skill Level: Repair Technician REPAIR PROCEDURE NOTE: Make sure you have all of your customer's keys. 1. Carefully remove the passenger's door sill trim. If you break any of the trim clips, replace them (P/N 91560-S06-003, H/C 6353502). Page 1836 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. Component Locations 13. Middle of Engine Page 3974 Terminals - "T" Shielding Switches Fuses Page 1595 1. Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper location. Remove the front wheels. 2. Loosen the damper pinch bolts (A), and adjust the camber by moving the bottom of the damper within the range of the damper pinch bolt free play. 3. Tighten the bolts to the specified torque. 4. Reinstall the front wheels. Lower the front of the vehicle to the ground, and bounce the vehicle several times to stabilize the suspension. 5. Check the camber angle. If it is within the specification, check the front toe. If it is not within the specification, go to step 6. 6. Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper location. Remove the front wheels. 7. Replace the damper pinch bolts with the adjusting bolts (A), and adjust the camber angle. NOTE: The camber angle can be adjusted up to ± 30' (center of tolerance) by replacing one damper pinch bolt with the adjusting bolt. The camber angle can be adjusted up to 1°00' by replacing both damper pinch bolts with the adjusting bolts. 8. Tighten the bolts to the specified torque. 9. Reinstall the front wheels, and torque the wheel nuts to 108 Nm (11.0 kgf-m, 80 ft. lbs.). 10. Lower the vehicle to the ground, and bounce the front of the vehicle several times to stabilize the suspension. 11. Check the camber angle. If it is within the specification, check the front toe, and adjust it if necessary. If the camber angle is not within the specification, readjust it, and recheck. If the camber angle cannot be adjusted to the specification, check for bent or damaged suspension components. Rear Camber Inspection Use commercially-available computerized four wheel alignment equipment to measure wheel alignment (caster, camber, toe, and turning angle). Follow the equipment manufacturer's instructions. Check the camber angle. If the camber angle is not within the specification, check for bent or damaged suspension components. Rear camber angle: - 1°00' ± 1° Front Toe Inspection/Adjustment Use commercially-available computerized four wheel alignment equipment to measure wheel alignment (caster, camber, toe, and turning angle). Follow the equipment manufacturer's instructions. 1. Center the steering wheel spokes. 2. Check the toe. If it is not within the specification, go to step 3. Front toe-in: 0 ± 2 mm (0 ± 1/16 inch) Page 8089 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. Page 9506 Wire Color Abbreviations Page 7136 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. Page 3370 Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Testing and Inspection Power Relay Test Power Relay Test Normally-open type A: 1. Turn the battery module switch OFF, and measure the voltage. 2. Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is disconnected. A/C compressor clutch relay - Air fuel ratio sensor relay - Condenser fan relay - Daytime running lights relay (Canada) - Headlight relay 1 - Headlight relay 2 - High speed battery module fan control relay - High speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - High voltage conductor control relay - Horn relay - Ignition hold relay - Low speed battery module fan control relay - Low speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - Power window relay - Radiator fan relay - Rear window defogger relay - Reverse relay - Starter cut relay - Taillight relay Page 475 Engine Control Module: Testing and Inspection How to Troubleshoot Circuits At the ECM/PCM How To Troubleshoot Circuits At The ECM Special Tools Required - Digital Multimeter KS-AHM-32-003 (1) or a commercially available digital multimeter - Backprobe Set 07SAZ-001000A (2) 1. Connect the backprobe adapters (A) to the stacking patch cords (B), and connect the cords to a multimeter (C). 2. Using the wire insulation as a guide for the contoured tip of the backprobe adapter, gently slide the tip into the connector from the wire side until it touches the end of the wire terminal. 3. If you cannot get to the wire side of the connector or the wire side is sealed (A), disconnect the connector and touch the tester probe (B) to terminals (C) from the terminal side. Do not force the probe into the connector. NOTE: Do not puncture the insulation on a wire. Punctures can cause poor or intermittent electrical connections. Page 3016 91. Motor Current Sensor Specifications Brake Fluid: Specifications Brake Fluid .......................................................................................................................................... .......................... Genuine Honda DOT 3 Brake Fluid Page 1299 7. Front of Engine Page 2398 Ignition System - Component Location Index Page 3815 DTC P1586 thru P1678 Page 7198 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 3836 DTC P0979 thru P1193 Service and Repair Differential Carrier Assembly: Service and Repair For further information regarding this component and the system that it is a part of, please refer to Differential, Manual Transaxle; Service and Repair. Page 7644 2. Remove the glove box, then disconnect the passenger's airbag 2P connector (A) from the floor wire harness. 3. Remove the three mounting nuts (A) from the bracket. Cover the lid and dashboard with a cloth, and pry carefully with a screwdriver to lift the passenger's airbag (B) out of the dashboard. NOTE: The airbag lid has pawls on its side which attach it to the dashboard. Installation 1. Place the new passenger's airbag (A) into the dashboard. Tighten the passenger's airbag mounting nuts (B). Page 6981 the castle nut by loosening it. - Install a new cotter pin on the castle nut after torquing. - Before installing the wheel, clean the mating surface of the brake disc and the inside of the wheel. - Check the wheel alignment, and adjust it if necessary. Page 9830 First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 612 First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 7630 21. Airbag Inflator, Driver's Or Passenger's Page 3956 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. Page 10033 Interior Lights - Ceiling Light/spotlights And Cargo Area Lights Image 114 Page 4233 7. Remove the rear clips from the middle bulkhead carpet. 8. Remove the under-cover (two bolts, two clips, and three screw clips). 9. Remove the intelligent power unit (I PU) lid (six Torx bolts and 17 hex bolts). 10. Measure the voltage between the junction board terminals. There should be 10 V or less. ^ If you have more than 10 V, there's a problem in the MA system. Look for and troubleshoot any DTCs before continuing. ^ If you have 10 V or less, continue to step 11. Connector Views Wiper Motor: Connector Views 104. Wiper Motor, Rear Window 120. Windshield Wiper Motor Page 2489 Radiator Cooling Fan Temperature Sensor / Switch: Testing and Inspection Radiator Fan Switch Test NOTE: Bleed air from the cooling system after installing the radiator fan switch. 1. Remove the radiator fan switch from the thermostat cover. 2. Suspend the radiator fan switch (A) in a container of water as shown. 3. Heat the water, and check the temperature with a thermometer. Do not let the thermometer (B) touch the bottom of hot container. 4. Measure the continuity between the terminal 1 and terminal 2 according to the table. Page 2734 12. Install the IPU lid. Torque the bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb-ft). 13. Reinstall the right side trunk shelf support. Torque the bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb-ft). 14. Remove the battery module switch locking cover, and flip the switch to ON. Reinstall the locking cover. 15. Reinstall the battery module switch cover. 16. Reinstall the cargo floor mat. 17. Remove the No.15 (40A) fuse (EPS control unit) from the under-hood fuse/relay box. 18. With the transmission in Neutral, and the clutch released on M/T models, start the engine. Hold it at 3,500 rpm until the IMA battery level indicator shows at least 50 percent charge. 19. Turn off the engine, and reinstall the No.15 fuse. Disclaimer Page 3207 ECM/PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector B (25P) Part 2 Page 4109 DISCLAIMER Page 5499 132. Valve Body (Remove) (CVT) Page 3785 DISCLAIMER Page 5441 15. If necessary, push the shift cable (A) until it stops, then release it. Pull the shift cable back one step so that the shift position is in the [R]. Do not push and pull the shift cable by holding the shift cable guide (B). 16. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 17. Insert a 6.0 mm (0.24 inch) pin (A) through the positioning hole (B) on the shift lever bracket base and into the positioning hole (C) on the shift lever. The shift lever is secured in the [R] position. 18. Align the socket holder (A) on the shift cable (B) with the slot in the bracket base (C), then slide the holder into the base. Install the shift cable end (D) over the mounting stud (E) by aligning its square hole (F) with the square fitting (G) at the bottom of the stud. Rotate the holder a quarter turn to secure the shift cable. Do not install the shift cable by twisting the shift cable guide (H). Page 4068 64. Check for continuity between ECM connector terminal B17 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Repair short in the wire between the DLC and the ECM (B17). NO - Update the ECM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM, replace the original ECM. 65. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 66. Disconnect ECM connector B (25P). 67. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). Is the MIL on? YES - Repair short in the wire between the gauge assembly and the ECM (B17). If the wires are OK, replace the gauge assembly. NO - Update the ECM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM, replace the original ECM. Page 4777 Fuel Pump Relay: Testing and Inspection PGM-FI Main Relay Test PGM-FI Main Relay Test Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No.3 and No.4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals when power is disconnected. Page 8001 8. Reinstall the wiper motor connector retaining clip in the motor mounting bracket. 9. Route the sub-harness around the motor mounting bracket, then connect it to the hatch harness. 10. Attach the sub-harness ground lead to the motor mounting bracket. 11. Cover the sub-harness with the self-adhesive foam padding from the kit. 12. Remove the grounding clip from the wiper motor bracket mount. Torque the bolt to 9.8 Nm (7.2 lb-ft). 13. Center-punch a completion mark above the fourth character (Z) of the engine compartment VIN. Starting System - Unable To Key In Ignition Switch Key: Technical Service Bulletins Starting System - Unable To Key In Ignition Switch Can't Turn Ignition Switch? Check for Locked Steering Got a service customer complaining he or she can't turn the ignition switch to start the engine? The reason could just be the steering column lock pin is engaged with the front wheels turned. Here's what typically happens: Some folks use the steering wheel to help support themselves while climbing in or out of the vehicle. This is very common among elderly or disabled drivers. Doing this turns the front wheels, which twists the tires against the ground. The twisted tires apply torque to the steering column. With the ignition switch in LOCK (0), the steering column lock pin is engaged. But the applied torque on the steering column binds the lock pin, making it tough to turn the ignition switch. The ignition switch won't turn to ON (II) if the lock pin isn't disengaged from the steering column. Tell your customer there's nothing wrong with the ignition switch itself. All he or she needs to do is turn the steering wheel from side to side while turning the switch. This usually releases the lock pin so the engine can be started. In some cases, though, your customer may need to give a good tug on the wheel. This could easily happen when parking on a hill and the wheels are turned sharply before the engine is shut off. Page 7765 All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416 etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector or by a capital letter (A, B, C etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Connector Views that shows the connector terminals wire colors connector cavity numbers and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints shown on diagram [8] . Except for the DLC (data link connector) disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554 for example means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Page 4893 Relay And Control Unit Locations - Dashboard Page 9220 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Page 687 6. Remove the right trunk shelf support (five clips and two bolts). 7. Remove the six mid-frame cover bolts. Remove the intelligent power unit (IPU) lid (17 bolts). 8. Measure the voltage at the junction board terminals. There should be 30 V or less. If you read more than 30 V, there is a problem in the circuit; do the DTC troubleshooting first. 9. Look at the part number on the motor control module (MCM), and refer to this chart. If there is a replacement part number listed for it, you need to order a replacement MCM. 10. Look at the part number on the battery condition monitor (BCM). If the part number is not 1K100-PHM-A01, you need to order a replacement BCM. Page 2535 - Taillight relay Five-terminal type: Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 5 terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 4 terminals when power is disconnected. - Fan control relay - Low beam cut relay (Canada) - Windshield wiper intermittent relay Page 3208 ECM/PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector C (31P) Part 1 Service and Repair Air Cleaner Element Replacement Page 10122 Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow from power at the top of the diagram to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another for example is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors Page 3638 Camshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation Camshaft Position (CMP) A and B (Top Dead Center (TDC) 1 and 2), and Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensors The CMPA (TDC 1) and CMPB (TDC 2) sensors detect the position of the No.1 cylinder as a reference for sequential fuel injection to each cylinder. The CKP sensor detects engine speed and determines ignition timing and timing for fuel injection of each cylinder. Component Locations Power Door Lock Switch: Component Locations Power Door Locks - Component Location Index Page 840 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. Page 5842 Reinstall the tool bed on the brake lathe with the top of the cutting bits facing up and the feed knobs facing down. Adjust the tool bed until the brake disc is centered between the cutting bits. For proper refinishing, the brake disc must turn toward the top of the cutting bits. Do not set the cutting depth on the brake lathe to more than 0.2 mm (0.008 in.). This is two divisions on the cutting knob. Make sure you start your cut at least 3 mm (0.12 in.) beyond the worn area on the brake disc. If you are cutting larger diameter brake discs, make sure you use the 150 cutting bit holders. These bit holders, available through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program (see ORDERING INFORMATION), supersede the original bit holders and provide better cutting coverage for larger diameter brake discs. Each bit holder is clearly marked for proper installation on the tool holder. Cutting the Brake Disc To get the smoothest cut and the best brake disc finish, always use the slowest feed speed on the tool bed feed motor. Place the drive belt on the smallest pulley of the feed motor and on the largest pulley of the hand wheel. Make sure the lower toggle switch on the power drive system drive motor assembly is set to the proper rotation to turn the brake disc toward the top of the cutting bits. Plug the tool bed feed motor into the power outlet on the drive motor assembly, then turn on the drive motor with the upper toggle switch on the assembly. If you are not using the power drive system, make sure the transmission is in 1st gear (2nd gear on Preludes with ATTS) or Reverse and the engine is idling, but not at a fast idle. If the transmission and engine are at higher gears and speeds, you will damage the cutting bits. Turn on the tool bed feed motor, and snap it into place; there should be tension on the feed belt. Cut the brake disc until the cutting bits clear the outer edge of the disc. The cutting bits should produce a smooth, consistent finish with no chatter marks or grooves. If the disc did not clean up entirely on the first pass, reset the brake lathe and make a second pass. Locations 23. Left Rear of Engine Compartment Page 1225 SRS - Component Location Index Page 9703 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: - Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest OHMS" range. Service and Repair Axle Beam: Service and Repair Rear Axle Beam Replacement NOTE: Bolts and nuts with the [star] mark are special corrosion-resistant Dacro fasteners. Use the same type if replacement is necessary. 1. Raise the rear of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper location. Remove the fender skirts and rear wheels on the right and left side of the vehicle. 2. Disconnect the wheel sensor connectors (A), and remove the wheel sensor brackets (B) and the brake hose brackets (C) on the right and left side. 3. Remove the brake hose clips (A), and disconnect the brake hoses (B) and lines (C) on the right and left side. 4. Remove the bolts (D) and parking brake cable brackets (E) on the right and left side. 5. Remove the wheel sensor harnesses on the right and left side. 6. Place a jack under each end of the rear axle beam. 7. Remove the flange bolts (A) at the bottom of the dampers on the right and left side. Page 7568 Evaporator Temperature Sensor / Switch: Diagrams 38. Evaporator Temperature Sensor 58. Evaporator Temperature Sensor Page 1422 Clutch Switch: Testing and Inspection Clutch Pedal Position Switch Signal Circuit Troubleshooting M/T model 1. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 2. Measure voltage between ECM connector terminals B14 and B20. Is there about 5 V? YES - Go to step 3. NO - Go to step 5. 3. Press the clutch pedal. 4. Measure voltage between ECM connector terminals B14 and B20. Is voltage less than 1.0 V? YES - The clutch pedal position switch signal is OK. NO - Go to step 12. 5. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 6. Disconnect the clutch pedal position switch 2P connector. 7. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 8. Measure voltage between ECM connector terminals B14 and B20. Page 3190 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 3870 In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locater) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: - Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. Page 5016 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 3609 Valve Clearance: Adjustments Adjustment NOTE: Adjust the valves only when the cylinder head temperature is less than 100°F (38°C). 1. Remove the engine cover. 2. Remove the cylinder head cover. 3. Set the No. 1 piston at top dead center (TDC). No. 1 piston TDC mark (A) on the camshaft sprocket should align with the cylinder head surface. 4. Select the correct thickness feeler gauge for the valves you're going to check. Intake: 0.18 - 0.22 mm (0.007 - 0.009 inch) Exhaust: 0.21 - 0.25 mm (0.008 - 0.010 inch) Adjusting screw location: 5. Insert the feeler gauge (A) between the adjusting screw and the end of the valve stem and slide it back and forth; you should feel a slight amount of drag. Page 7947 ^ Select About. - What iTunes version are you using? - What TTS software version is installed? ^ Make sure you have the customer's iPod for troubleshooting. ^ Turn on the iPod, and verify its battery is fully charged before testing. If the battery is low, the iPod will not "make up" when connected. ^ Some iPod protective cases cause the Music Link iPod connector to be installed crookedly or not fully engaged. Be sure to remove the protective case before troubleshooting. ^ Go to http//musiclink.honda.com/Tech Faq.html to view technical FAQs and troubleshooting. TROUBLESHOOTING Check mark is not shown on the iPod display screen, radio will not switch to CD-C or CD-4 mode. NOTE: Remove the iPod protective case, if installed. 1. At the Music Link interface unit, make sure both connectors are fully engaged, and the cables do not have any broken or bent pins. NOTE: To release the Music Link interface unit connectors, you must pull back on the lock sleeves. Does either cable have the connector partially disengaged, or are any pins broken or bent? Yes - Reconnect or replace the loose or damaged cable. No - Go to step 2. 2. At the audio unit, make sure the cable connectors and the connector pin fits are tight. Also check that the optional Y-bus harness (if installed) connector and connector pin fits are tight. Do the cable connections and pins fit properly? Yes - Replace the Music Link interface unit and the cable. No - Repair the faulty connection at the audio unit. Static, or weak or no volume over speakers only in Music Link mode. NOTE: Remove iPod protective case, if installed. Page 7296 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Diagram Information and Instructions Alarm/Immobilizer Control Unit: Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System Terminal Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown below is #6. Page 944 53. Right Side of Steering Column Page 5655 Shift Interlock Switch: Service and Repair Park Pin Switch Replacement 1. Remove the front console. 2. Remove the A/T gear position indicator panel light, and remove the bulb (A) from the socket (B). 3. Separate the A/T gear position indicator panel from the shift lever bracket base (C). 4. Disconnect the park pin switch connector (D), and remove it from the bracket base. 5. Remove the park pin switch clamp (E) and the park pin switch (F). 6. Install the new park pin switch in the shift lever bracket base, and install the park pin switch clamp to secure it. 7. Install the removed parts in the reverse order of removal. Page 5759 Electronic Brake Control Module: Service and Repair ABS Modulator-Control Unit Removal and Installation NOTE: ^ Do not spill brake fluid on the vehicle; it may damage the paint; if brake fluid gets on the paint, wash it off immediately with water. ^ Take care not to damage or deform the brake lines during removal and installation. ^ To prevent the brake fluid from flowing, plug and cover the hose ends and joints with a shop towel or equivalent material. Removal 1. Pull up the lock (C) of the ABS control unit 25P connector (B), then disconnect the connector. 2. Disconnect the six brake lines. 3. Remove the two 6 mm nuts. 4. Remove the ABS modulator-control unit (A). Installation 1. Install the ABS modulator-control unit, then tighten the two 6 mm nuts. 2. Align the connecting surface of the ABS control unit 25P connector. 3. Push in the lock of the ABS control unit 25P connector until you hear it click into place, then connect the connector. 4. Bleed the brake system, starting with the front wheels. 5. Start the engine, and check that the ABS indicator goes off. 6. Test-drive the vehicle, and check that the ABS indicator does not come on. Page 961 43. Heater Core Temperature Sensor Page 8774 All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416 etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector or by a capital letter (A, B, C etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Connector Views that shows the connector terminals wire colors connector cavity numbers and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints shown on diagram [8] . Except for the DLC (data link connector) disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554 for example means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Page 6367 Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box Page 9113 Wires Page 7277 All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416 etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector or by a capital letter (A, B, C etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Connector Views that shows the connector terminals wire colors connector cavity numbers and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints shown on diagram [8] . Except for the DLC (data link connector) disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554 for example means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Page 2362 2. Remove the sealing nut from the fuel rail. Attach the fuel pressure adapter nut, 12 mm (A) and the fuel pressure gauge (B). Remove the vacuum hose (C) from the fuel pulsation damper (D), and pinch off the hose with a clamp (E). 3. Start the engine and let it idle. - If the engine starts, go to step 5. - If the engine does not start, go to step 4. 4. See if the fuel pump is running: listen to the fuel fill port with the fuel fill cap removed. The fuel pump should run for 2 seconds when the ignition switch is first turned on. If the pump runs, go to step 5. - If the fuel pump does not run, perform the fuel pump circuit troubleshooting. 5. Read the pressure gauge. The pressure should be 270 - 320 kPa (2.8 - 3.3 kgf/sq.cm, 40 - 47 psi) - If the pressure is OK, the test is complete. - If the pressure is out of specification, replace the fuel pressure regulator and the fuel filter, and recheck the fuel pressure. 6. Remove the pressure gauge, and reinstall the sealing nut with a new washer. Tighten the sealing nut to 22 N.m (2.2 kgf.m, 16 lbf.ft). NOTE: Disassemble and clean the fuel pressure gauge attachment thoroughly after use. Page 7160 Air Door Actuator / Motor: Service and Repair Mode Control Motor Mode Control Motor Replacement 1. Disconnect the 7P connector (A) from the mode control motor (B). Remove the rod (C) from the arm (D) of the mode control motor. Remove the self-tapping screws and the mode control motor from the heater unit. 2. Install the motor in the reverse order of removal. After installation, make sure the motor runs smoothly. Page 4653 Idle Speed: Adjustments Idle Speed Adjustment NOTE: - Leave the idle air control (IAC) valve connected. - Before checking the idle speed, check these items: The malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) has not been reported on. - Ignition timing - Spark plugs - Air cleaner - PCV system - Pull the parking brake lever up. Start the engine, and make sure the headlights are off. 1. Disconnect the evaporative emission (EVAP) canister purge valve 2P connector. 2. Connect a tachometer (A) to the test tachometer connector (B), or connect the Honda PGM Tester (C) or an OBD II scan tool to the data link connector (DLC) (D) located under the driver's side of the dashboard. 3. Start the engine. Hold the engine at 3,000 rpm with no load (in Park or neutral) until the radiator fan comes on, then let it idle. 4. Check the idle speed with no-load conditions: headlights, blower fan, radiator fan, and air conditioner off. Page 8963 Diodes How to Identify Wiring Color-Coded Insulation Wire Color Page 3419 Page 153 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 1868 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. Page 9280 Lights-on,key-in,and Seat Belt Reminders Image 73-1 Page 1201 5. Door Switch, Driver's Or Passenger's Page 5468 Transmission Cooler: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Avoiding Fluid Contamination SOURCE: Honda Service News TITLE: Avoiding Comebacks From A/T Contamination APPLIES TO: All models SERVICE TIP: Installing a reman A/T? Here are some important tips to keep in mind to ensure a first-time fix and to avoid any come-backs: - If the vehicle has an ATF cooler, make sure you clean the cooler with the ATF Cooler Cleaner (P/N GHTTTCF6H). See S/B 89-022, ATF Cooler Cleaner, for details. - If the reman A/T kit includes an in-line filter, don't forget to install it. If the vehicle already has an in-line filter from an earlier A/T replacement, then remove the existing filter, and install the new one. - Spray the driveshaft splines with solvent and compressed air before installing them in the reman A/T. If the failed A/T had a speed sensor, make sure it's clean before you install it. Debris from the failed A/T can catch in the driveshaft splines or on the speed sensor and contaminate the reman A/T. - If the reman A/T comes with a heater/cooler, make sure you install the reman A/T with that heater/cooler. Never install the heater/cooler from the failed A/T; you could contaminate the reman A/T. Page 2785 147. Junction Board Service and Repair Spoiler: Service and Repair Hatch Spoiler Trim Replacement NOTE: - Take care not to scratch the body. - Put on gloves to protect your hands. - Use a T30 Torx bit to remove the bolts. 1. Remove these items: - Hatch trim panel - Rear wiper motor 2. Remove the hatch spoiler trim as shown. 3. Install the trim in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - Check for damaged or stress-whitened clips, and replace them with new ones. - Make sure the connector is plugged in properly. - Push the clips into place securely. Page 7844 All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416 etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector or by a capital letter (A, B, C etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Connector Views that shows the connector terminals wire colors connector cavity numbers and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints shown on diagram [8] . Except for the DLC (data link connector) disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554 for example means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Page 2072 Splices Components Ground - "G" Page 7193 EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 8556 NOTE: Be sure to mix the correct amount of the hardener and softener. NOTE: Use a spray gun to apply the paint. Do not use a brush. Drying Time: Force dry the intermediate coat and top coat. NOTE: Mix only an amount that can be used before it hardens. Refinishing Processes Refinishing Processes - The illustration shows refinishing methods to various types of paint damage or defects. Service and Repair Air Bag Safety Switch/Connector: Service and Repair When checking voltage or resistance on this type of connector the first time, you must remove the retainer to insert the tester probe from the wire side. NOTE: It is not necessary to reinstall the removed retainer; the terminals will stay locked in the connector housing. To remove the retainer (A), insert a flat-tip screwdriver (B) between the connector body and the retainer, then carefully pry out the retainer. Take care not to break the connector. Page 7554 Ambient Temperature Sensor / Switch HVAC: Testing and Inspection Outside Air Temperature Sensor Test Dip the sensor in ice water, and measure the resistance. Then pour hot water on the sensor, and check for a change in resistance. Compare the resistance reading between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals of the outside air temperature sensor with the specifications shown in the graph; the resistance should be within the specifications. Page 6348 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Locations Fuel Supply System - Component Location Index Service and Repair Condenser HVAC: Service and Repair Condenser Replacement 1. Recover the refrigerant with a recovery/recycling/charging station. 2. Remove the splash shield. 3. Remove the bolt and the nut, then disconnect the condenser line (A) and the discharge line (B) from the condenser. Plug or cap the lines immediately after disconnecting them to avoid moisture and dust contamination. 4. Remove the front bumper. 5. Remove the clips and the condenser shroud (A). Remove the bolts, then remove the wire harness clips (B) and the center upper beam (C). 6. Disconnect the condenser fan connector (A), and remove the compressor clutch connector (B) from the condenser fan shroud. Remove the Page 7387 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. Page 2666 6. Disconnect the low speed battery module fan control relay 4P connector and high speed battery module fan control relay 4P connector. 7. Check for continuity between body ground and BCM module connector terminal All and A24*. Is there continuity? YES- Repair short in the wire between the BCM module (All, A24*) and the low (high) *speed battery module fan control relay. NO- Go to step 8. 8. Check the low (high)* speed battery inverter module fan control relay. Is relay OK? YES- Repair short in the wire between the battery module fan and high speed battery module fan control relay NO- Replace the battery module. Description and Operation Ignition Timing Connector: Description and Operation Ignition Timing Control The ECM contains the memory for basic ignition timing at various engine speeds and manifold absolute pressure. It also adjusts the timing according to engine coolant temperature. Page 3496 PGM-FI System - Component Location Index Page 1835 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. Page 4500 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 7378 First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Locations Openers - Component Location Index Page 4511 Variable Valve Timing Actuator: Electrical Diagrams Diagram 31 Diagrams: Other diagrams referred to by number (See Diagram ##-#, etc.) within these diagrams can be found at Diagrams by Number. See: Diagrams/Electrical Diagrams/Diagrams By Number Locations: Location photographs (references to PHOTOS) referred to within these diagrams can be found at Locations by Photo Number. See: Locations/Component Locations/Locations By Photo Number Connector Views: Connector terminal views (references to VIEWS) referred to within these diagrams can be found at Connector Views by View Number. See: Diagrams/Connector Views/Connector Views By View Number Page 6580 160. C508 (Junction Connector) 161. C571 (Junction Connector) Page 2305 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. Page 5862 Brake Shoe: Service and Repair Rear Brake Shoes Replacement Removal/Disassembly NOTICE: To avoid damage, do not strike aluminum parts with a metal hammer. If necessary, tap gently with a plastic tipped hammer. 1. Remove the brake drum. 2. Remove the upper return spring (A) and lower return spring (B). 3. Remove the tension pins (A) by turning them while pushing each retainer spring (B). 4. Disconnect the parking brake cable from the parking brake lever, and remove the brake shoes from the backing plate. 5. Remove the clevis (A), adjuster bolt (C), and clevis (B), and separate the brake shoes (D). 6. Remove the self-adjuster spring (E) and self adjuster lever (F). Page 3891 ECM Inputs and Outputs at Connector A (32P) Part 1 Page 601 Wire Color Coding Distinct Of Circuit By Wire Base Color All wires have color-coded insulation. Wires belonging to a system's main harness will have a single color. Wires belonging to a system's sub-circuits will have a colored stripe. Striped wires use the codes found in the chart to show wire size and colors. Abbreviations are used to indicate wire color within a circuit diagram. Wire Color Abbreviations The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics: WHT................................... White YEL................................... Yellow BLK................................... Black BLU................................... Blue GRN................................... Green RED................................... Red ORN................................... Orange PNK................................... Pink BRN................................... Brown GRY................................... Gray PUR................................... Purple LT BLU................................... Light Blue LT GRN................................... Light Green The wire insulation has one color or one color with another color stripe. The second color is the stripe. How to Identify Connector Terminals How to Identify Connector Terminals Page 2247 Oil Pressure Sender: Testing and Inspection Test 1. Remove the oil pressure switch connector (A) from the engine oil pressure switch (B). 2. Check for continuity between the engine oil pressure switch and the engine (ground). There should be continuity with the engine stopped. There should be no continuity with the engine running. 3. If the switch fails to operate, check the engine oil level. If the engine oil level is OK, check the engine oil pressure. Page 4252 First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 8643 Connectors - "C" Diagram Information and Instructions Power Trunk / Liftgate Lock Actuator: Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System Terminal Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown below is #6. Adjustments Shift Cable: Adjustments Shift Cable Replacement 1. Remove the front console. 2. Shift the transmission into the [R] position. 3. Remove the nut securing the shift cable end, then separate the cable end from the shift lever. 4. Rotate the socket holder (A) on the shift cable (B) a quarter turn; the projection (C) on the socket holder faces direction to remove. Then slide the holder to remove the shift cable from the shift cable bracket base (D). 5. Remove the shift cable bracket (A) in the cabin, under the dash. 6. Remove the air cleaner housing. Page 5414 197. Driving Mode Buttons (CVT) Page 6934 Key Reminder Switch: Electrical Diagrams Lights-on, Key-in, And Seat Belt Reminders Image 73 Page 6536 Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box Part 2 Page 1176 Cavity Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity / terminal shown is # 6. Circuit Schematics Specifications Brake Fluid: Specifications Brake Fluid .......................................................................................................................................... .......................... Genuine Honda DOT 3 Brake Fluid Page 8936 Fuel Gauge: Description and Operation Fuel Gauge and Low Fuel Indicator WARNING: Do not smoke while working on the fuel system. Keep open flame away from the work area. Drain fuel only into an approved container. The fuel gauge (part of the LCD Display) and the low fuel indicators are controlled by the CPU in the gauge assembly. The fuel gauge sending unit (part of the fuel tank unit) sends a fuel level signal to the CPU in the gauge assembly through the YEL/BLK wire (cavity A3). The signal varies depending on the position of the float in the fuel tank which changes the resistance of the sending unit. The sending unit's resistance varies according to the position of its float. The CPU controls the LCD Display to turn on the correct number of segments to indicate the fuel level. When the fuel level drops below the LOW level, the CPU grounds the low fuel indicator, which turns the indicator on. Refer to the Fuel Supply System for specific tests or troubleshooting procedures. Page 32 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Page 2642 9. Measure voltage at the junction board terminals. ^ If the reading is 30 V or less, the capacitors are discharged enough for you to continue; go to step 10. ^ If the reading is more than 30 V, there is a problem with the IMA system. Troubleshoot the system using the IMA section of the service manual, then continue with this procedure. 10. Lift out the battery module foam insert. 11. Replace the BCM (2002-04 Insights) or the BCM and the MCM (2000-01 Insights): ^ Remove the mounting bolts. ^ Disconnect the connectors: The BCM has three; the MCM has five. Page 8743 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 2753 Battery Condition Monitor: Locations 109. Top Front of Battery Module 110. Top Rear of Battery Module Component Locations Keyless Entry Module: Component Locations 38. Under Left Side of Dash 43. Under Left Side of Dash (Honda Accessory) Page 143 Diodes How to Identify Wiring Color-Coded Insulation Wire Color Page 8596 Trunk / Liftgate Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relay Test Normally-open type B: Hatch Opener Relay 1. Turn the battery module switch OFF, and measure the voltage. 2. Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 3 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 2 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 3 terminals when power is disconnected. Locations Page 5803 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. Page 4946 Wires Testing and Inspection Brake Hose/Line: Testing and Inspection Brake Hoses and Lines Inspection 1. Inspect the brake hoses, for damage, deterioration, leaks, interference, and twisting 2. Check the brake lines for damage, rusting, and leakage. Also check for bent brake lines. 3. Check for leaks at hose and line joints or connections, and retighten if necessary. 4. Check the master cylinder and ABS modulator unit for damage and leakage. NOTE: Replace the brake hose clip whenever the brake hose is serviced. Page 6409 Fuse-to-Components Index Image 6-2 Page 1162 Combination Switch: Testing and Inspection Combination Light Switch Test/Replacement 1. Remove the steering column covers. 2. Disconnect the 16P connector (B) from the combination light switch (A). 3. Remove the two screws, then pull out the switch. 4. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table. If the continuity check is not as specified, replace the switch. Page 4901 Diodes How to Identify Wiring Color-Coded Insulation Wire Color Page 529 10. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and measure voltage between ECM connector terminals B1 and B20, and between B9 and B20. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 11. NO - Check for an open in the wires between the PGM-FI main relay and the ECM (B1, B9). If the wires are OK, replace the PGM-FI main relay. 11. Turn the ignition switch OFF, then ON (II) again, and measure voltage between ECM connector terminals A15 and B2 within the first two seconds after the ignition switch is turned ON (II). Is there 1.0 V or less? YES - The PGM-FI main relay may be faulty. NO - Update the ECM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM, replace the original ECM. Page 8982 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. Page 9897 Tail Lamp Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relay Test Normally-open type A: 1. Turn the battery module switch OFF, and measure the voltage. 2. Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is disconnected. A/C compressor clutch relay - Air fuel ratio sensor relay - Condenser fan relay - Daytime running lights relay (Canada) - Headlight relay 1 - Headlight relay 2 - High speed battery module fan control relay - High speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - High voltage conductor control relay - Horn relay - Ignition hold relay - Low speed battery module fan control relay - Low speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - Power window relay - Radiator fan relay - Rear window defogger relay - Reverse relay - Starter cut relay Page 1581 9. Test-drive the vehicle on the same road you used earlier. - If the drift is now within spec, swap each rear tire back to the front, one at a time, and test-drive the vehicle on the same road you used earlier. Replace the bad tire, then return the vehicle to your customer. - If the drift is still out of spec after swapping the front and rear tires, go to step 10. 10. Test-drive a known-good donor vehicle on the same road you used earlier, and check its pull. 11. Swap all four tires from the donor vehicle with the tires on your customer¡C■s vehicle. 12. Test-drive your customer¡C■s vehicle on the same road you used earlier. - If the drift is now within spec, swap the tires back to the donor vehicle one at a time, and test-drive your customer¡C■s vehicle on the same road you used earlier. Do this until the drift comes back. Replace the bad tire(s), then return the vehicle to your customer. - If the drift is still out of spec using the donor vehicle tires, contact Tech Line for further action. Technical Service Bulletin # 06-068 Date: 090502 Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right 06-068 May 2, 2009 Applies To: ALL *Vehicle Pulls or Drifts, and/or Steering Wheel Is Off-Center (Supersedes 06-068, Vehicle Pulling or Drifting, dated October 4, 2007, to revise the information marked by asterisks) (Replaces 90-011, Steering Wheel Off-Center Adjustment at PDI)* *REVISION SUMMARY The title description was revised.* SYMPTOM While driving on a straight road, the vehicle pulls or drifts to the right or left. BACKGROUND New tools were developed to help you diagnose and correct a pulling and/or steering wheel off-center issue. There is a diagnosis worksheet included to take on your test-drive and record your findings. These values are used to build the 15-digit DTC (diagnostic trouble code) that is required for your warranty claim. The last step in each repair procedure helps you create the correct code. In the rare case that you have to repair a vehicle that pulls and has the steering wheel off-center, use REPAIR PROCEDURE B to file your warranty claim. For more information, refer to Training Module SSC 44 - Steering Drift or Pull Interactive Service Bulletin. PROBABLE CAUSES Several conditions can cause the vehicle to pull or drift: ^ Wheel alignment ^ Tires ^ Off-center steering wheel (no pulling or drifting, but a customer may believe this is the case) CORRECTIVE ACTION Diagnose the problem using the special tools and the worksheet on page 4 that guides you to one of four repair procedures. Page 8094 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Component Locations Wiper Motor: Component Locations Wipers/Washers - Component Location Index Page 5197 Shift Interlock Solenoid: Service and Repair Shift Lock Solenoid Replacement 1. Remove the front console. 2. Disconnect the shift lock solenoid connector. 3. Pry the shift lock solenoid clamp (A) with a screwdriver, and remove it. 4. Remove the shift lock solenoid. 5. Install the shift lock solenoid plunger (B) and plunger spring (C) in the new shift lock solenoid (D). 6. Install the shift lock solenoid by aligning the joint of the shift lock solenoid plunger with the tip of the shift lock stop (E). 7. Secure the shift lock solenoid with the solenoid clamp. 8. Connect the shift lock solenoid connector. 9. Install the front console. Page 248 Wire Color Coding Distinct Of Circuit By Wire Base Color All wires have color-coded insulation. Wires belonging to a system's main harness will have a single color. Wires belonging to a system's sub-circuits will have a colored stripe. Striped wires use the codes found in the chart to show wire size and colors. Abbreviations are used to indicate wire color within a circuit diagram. Wire Color Abbreviations The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics: WHT................................... White YEL................................... Yellow BLK................................... Black BLU................................... Blue GRN................................... Green RED................................... Red ORN................................... Orange PNK................................... Pink BRN................................... Brown GRY................................... Gray PUR................................... Purple LT BLU................................... Light Blue LT GRN................................... Light Green The wire insulation has one color or one color with another color stripe. The second color is the stripe. How to Identify Connector Terminals How to Identify Connector Terminals Page 1724 Fluid - CVT: Service and Repair ATF Replacement ATF Replacement NOTE: Keep all foreign particles out of the transmission. 1. Bring the transmission up to normal operating temperature (the radiator fan comes on) by driving the vehicle. 2. Park the vehicle on level ground, and turn the engine off. 3. Remove the engine under cover on the transmission side. 4. Remove the drain plug (A), and drain the automatic transmission fluid (ATF). 5. Reinstall the drain plug with a new sealing washer (B). 6. Remove the air cleaner housing. 7. Refill transmission with the recommended fluid into the filler hole (A) to the upper mark on the dipstick. Always use genuine Honda ATF-Z1 Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF). Using a nonHonda ATF can affect shift quality. 8. Check that the fluid level is between the upper mark (B) and lower mark (C) on the COLD portion of the gauge. 9. Install the ATF filler bolt (B) with a new sealing washer (C). 10. Insert the dipstick back into the transmission. 11. Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature (the radiator fan comes on). 12. Check that the fluid level is between the upper mark (A) and lower mark (B) on HOT level. 13. Install the air cleaner housing, and install the engine cover. Description and Operation Barometric Pressure Sensor: Description and Operation Barometric Pressure (BARO) Sensor The BARO sensor is inside the ECM. It converts atmospheric pressure into a voltage signal that modifies the basic duration of the fuel injection discharge. Page 6199 6. Measure the commutator (A) runout. - If the commutator runout is within the service limit, check the commutator for carbon dust or brass chips between the segments. - If the commutator runout is not within the service limit, replace the armature. Commutator Runout Standard (New): 0.02 mm (0.001 in.) max. Service Limit: 0.05 mm (0.002 in.) 7. Check the mica depth (A). If the mica is too high (B), undercut the mica with a hacksaw blade to the proper depth. Cut away all the mica (C) between the commutator segments. The undercut should not be too shallow, too narrow, or V-shaped (D). Commutator Mica Depth Standard (New): 0.4 - 0.5 mm (0.016 - 0.020 in.) Service Limit: 0.15 mm (0.006 in.) 8. Check for continuity between the segments of the commutator. If an open circuit exists between any segments, replace the armature. Page 7910 On the order form, you must include the serial number of the keyless control unit or the number from one of the original transmitters. If you need a transmitter shipped overnight, fill out the order form, then call Kenwood at (500) 552-4690, or fax them at (310) 595-1029 (weekdays from 5:30A.M. thru 4:00 P.M. Pacific time). You will need to give the information on the order form to the Kenwood representative. The transmitter will be sent to your dealership COD. Additional shipping and handling charges will be applied to the order. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery number is CR1220. Each transmitter uses two batteries. 94-97 Accord 5-Door EX, 95-98 Odyssey EX 1994-97 Accord 5-door EX with factory-installed keyless entry system 1995-98 Odyssey EX with factory-installed keyless entry system Programming the Transmitter NOTE: ^ The system accepts up to two transmitters. ^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the programming mode. 1. Open the driver's door. 2. Push the driver's power door lock switch to the unlock position and hold it. (Continue to hold the switch during this procedure.) 3. Insert the key into the ignition switch, then remove it. Repeat this four more times (five times total) within 10 seconds. (You must complete steps 3 and 4 within 10 seconds or the system will exit the programming mode.) 4. Insert the key into the ignition switch. After you insert the key, make sure the power door locks cycle to confirm that the system is in the programming mode. 5. Press the "LOCK" or "UNLOCK" button on the transmitter. All the power door locks (except the driver's door) should cycle to confirm that the system accepted the transmitter's code. 6. To program a second transmitter, press its "LOCK" or "UNLOCK" button within 10 seconds of programming the first transmitter. 7. Release the master power door lock switch to exit the programming mode. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda using normal parts ordering procedures. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery number is CR2016. Each transmitter uses two batteries. 96-04 Accord, CRV, DelSOL, Ody., Prelude, S2000, Insight, Pilot 1996-02 Accord with dealer-installed security system 1998-02 Accord DX & LX with dealer-installed keyless entry system Page 6555 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 7165 Air Duct: Service and Repair Heater Duct Removal and Installation 1. Remove the glove box and the center lower cover. 2. Cut the plastic cross brace in the glove box opening with diagonal cutters in the area shown, and discard it. 3. Remove the bolts and the glove box frame. Page 10032 99. Ceiling Light/Spotlights Page 6337 160. C508 (Junction Connector) 161. C571 (Junction Connector) Page 6353 to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 9340 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. Page 8973 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 4291 Engine Control Module: Service and Repair Updating the ECM/PCM How To Substitute The ECM For Tosting Purposes-'00-01 M/T Models Use this procedure if you need a known-good ECM to test a vehicle. It allows you to swap a ECM from a "donor" vehicle without having to program it to the test vehicle's ignition key. 1. Cut a temporary ignition key for the test vehicle with a non-immobilizer key blank. 2. Remove the ECM from the test vehicle. 3. Write the test vehicle's VIN on the ECM you just removed to avoid confusing it with the donor vehicle's ECM. 4. Remove the known-good ECM from the donor vehicle, and install it in the test vehicle. 5. Tape the donor vehicle's ignition key head-to-head to the test vehicle's temporary key (A). The ECM will recognize the code from the donor vehicle's key (B) and allow you to start the engine with the temporary key. 6. After completing your tests, reinstall both ECMs, and destroy the temporary key. Page 3484 Throttle Position Sensor: Description and Operation Throttle Position (TP) Sensor The TP sensor is a potentiometer connected to the throttle valve shaft. As the throttle position changes, the sensor varies the signal voltage to the ECM. The TP sensor is not replaceable apart from the throttle body. Page 2916 19. Measure voltage between body ground and the high speed motor power inverter module fan control relay 4P connector terminal No. 4. Is there battery voltage? YES- Go to step 20. NO- Check for: ^ A blown No. 5 IMA FAN (15 A) fuse. ^ An open in the wire between the No. 5 IMA FAN (15 A) fuse and the high speed motor power inverter module fan control relay. 20. Check for continuity between body ground and the high speed motor power inverter module fan control relay 4P connector terminal No. 1. Is there continuity? YES- Go to step 21. NO- Repair open in the wire between G502 and the high speed motor power inverter module fan control relay. 21. Disconnect the MPI module fan 2P connector. 22. Connect the MPI module fan 2P connector terminal No. 2 and body ground with a jumper wire. Page 2140 Piston: Service and Repair For further information regarding this component and the system it is a part of, please refer to Cylinder Block Assembly; Service and Repair. Page 1357 121. EGR Valve And EGR Valve Position Sensor Page 9578 Number. See: Diagrams/Connector Views/Connector Views By View Number Page 2347 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. Component Locations 89. Behind Passenger's Seat Page 9123 Seat Belt Reminder Lamp: Diagnostic Aids Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Page 9065 Key Reminder Switch: Testing and Inspection Ignition Key Switch Test Ignition Key Switch Test SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations, precautions, and procedures before performing repairs or service. 1. Remove the driver's pocket. 2. Disconnect the 2P connector from the dashboard wire harness B. 3. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position. - With the ignition key inserted, there should be continuity. - With the ignition key removed, there should be no continuity. 4. If the continuity is not as specified, replace the steering lock assembly. Page 6619 Terminals - "T" Shielding Switches Fuses Page 1024 EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 9881 Horn Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relay Test Normally-open type A: 1. Turn the battery module switch OFF, and measure the voltage. 2. Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is disconnected. A/C compressor clutch relay - Air fuel ratio sensor relay - Condenser fan relay - Daytime running lights relay (Canada) - Headlight relay 1 - Headlight relay 2 - High speed battery module fan control relay - High speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - High voltage conductor control relay - Horn relay - Ignition hold relay - Low speed battery module fan control relay - Low speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - Power window relay - Radiator fan relay - Rear window defogger relay - Reverse relay - Starter cut relay Page 6473 Wire Color Abbreviations Page 7946 - Select Settings. - Select About. ^ iPod reset procedure: http://docs.info.apple.com/ article.html?artnum=61705 Resources for Installation Instructions Online, enter the model and year, enter the keyword MUSIC LINK, and select the appropriate installation instructions. Music Link First-Use Information After installing the Music Link kit, switch the audio unit to AUX (auxiliary) mode and verify the audio unit displays CDC EJECT or CD4 EJECT. Connect the iPod to the Music Link connector. Make sure the check mark is displayed on the iPod display screen and that you hear music. ^ The Music Link disc supplied in the kit contains the TTS software and the User's Guide. It is for home computer use only. ^ The customer needs to load the TTS software/User's Guide on his/her home computer in order for all of the search functions (Disc 1-4) to operate. ^ Only the shuffle functions (Disc 5-6) will operate without the TTS software installed (see the Quick Reference Guide). ^ For the search functions (Disc 1-4) to operate properly, TTS software must be run after any songs are changed (added or removed) on the iPod. ^ You can change the Disc position on most audio units by using the Disc - (preset number 5) and Disc + (preset number 6). Always refer to the User's Guide for proper operation. iPod Reset Procedure Information The iPod reset procedure applies to these Apple iPod models: ^ Fifth-generation or later iPod (also known as iPod with video) ^ iPod nano(R) ^ iPod with color display (iPod photo) ^ iPod mini(R) NOTE: To view this information online, log on to http//docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=6 1705 To reset the customer's iPod: 1. Cycle the Hold switch on and off (slide it to Hold, then turn it off again). 2. Press and hold the Menu and Select buttons for 6-10 seconds until the Apple logo appears. NOTE: If you are having difficulty resetting the iPod, set it on a flat surface. As you press the Select button, make sure your finger does not touch any part of the click wheel. Also make sure that you press the Menu button toward the outside of the click wheel and not near the center. 3. If the above steps do not work, try connecting the iPod to a power adapter and plug the power adapter into an electrical outlet, or connect the iPod to your computer. Make sure the computer is on and isn't set to sleep mode. BEFORE TROUBLESHOOTING ^ Before troubleshooting, ask the customer these questions: - What is the main issue? - What model and generation iPod do you have? Refer to www.apple.com. - What version iPod firmware (unit software) is loaded? ^ Go to the Main Menu. ^ Select Settings. Page 6078 11. Use the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) with version 1.011.014 or later software to clear any set DTCs. 12. Reinstall the IPU lid and the mid-frame cover bolts. Torque the bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb-ft). 13. Reinstall the right trunk shelf support. Torque the bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb-ft). 14. Remove the battery module switch locking cover, and flip the switch to ON. Reinstall the locking cover. 15. Reinstall the battery module switch cover. 16. Reinstall the cargo floor mat. 17. Return the vehicle to your customer. Advise your customer that it is OK to drive the vehicle as is until the replacement parts arrive, but the vehicle will have reduced power (no IMA assist). 18. Order a battery module and, if needed, a BCM, an MCM, or both. REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Remove the battery module from the vehicle (see page 12-113 of the service manual). (In ISIS, use the keyword BAT MOD, and select Battery Module Removal/Installation from the list.) 2. Remove the lifting tool from the battery module. 3. Remove the mounting bolts for the MCM and the BCM (eight total). Unplug the electrical connectors (five for the MCM and three for the BCM), then remove the modules. 4. Install the MCM and the BCM in the new battery module. Use the original MCM and BCM if no replacement was needed; otherwise, use the appropriate replacement parts. Torque the mounting bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb-ft). 5. Install the lifting tool on the battery module. 6. With someone to help you, carefully lift the battery module into the vehicle, and set it down into position. Remove the lifting tool. 7. Plug in the connectors, and install the Y condenser harness. Then install the mounting bolts. Torque the bolts to 24 N.m (17 lb-ft). 8. Install the battery module air duct. Torque the bolt to 9.8 N~m (7.2 lb-ft). 9. Connect the high voltage cables to the junction board. Torque the bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb-ft). 10. Install the front and rear IPU braces and the mid-frame. Torque the bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb-ft). 11. Install the foam inserts. Page 1423 Is there about 5 V? YES - Replace the clutch pedal position switch. NO - Go to step 9. 9. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 10. Disconnect ECM connector B (25P). 11. Check for continuity between ECM connector terminal B14 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Repair short in the wire between the ECM (B14) and the clutch pedal position switch. NO - Update the ECM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM, replace the original ECM. 12. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 13. Disconnect the clutch pedal position switch 2P connector. 14. Check for continuity between clutch pedal position switch 2P connector terminals No.1 and No.2 with the clutch pedal pressed. Is there continuity? YES - Go to step 15. NO - Adjust the clutch pedal position switch. 15. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). Page 10192 36. Left Side of Dash 75. In Driver's Door (Passenger's Similar) Emissions/Engine Controls - MIL ON/DTC P1457 (EVAP) Engine Control Module: Customer Interest Emissions/Engine Controls - MIL ON/DTC P1457 (EVAP) 03-001 January 28, 2003 Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED MIL Comes On With DTC P1457: EVAP Bypass Solenoid Valve Failure SYMPTOM The MIL is on, and DTC P1457 [leak detected in EVAP control system (EVAP control canister system)] is set. PROBABLE CAUSE The EVAP bypass solenoid valve can fail due to corrosion. The solenoid valve may get water inside. If the water contains road salt, the solenoid windings could corrode, causing the valve to fail. In a few rare instances, the corrosion could be severe enough to cause an internal short in the solenoid valve, which could damage the ECM/PCM. If this happens, both the bypass solenoid valve and the ECM/PCM would need to be replaced. Vehicles driven in the Northeastern part of the U.S. are more likely to have this problem because of the salting of roads during the winter months. Vehicles driven where salt is not used on the roads are much less likely to have this problem. VEHICLES AFFECTED 1998-02 Accord 1998-00 Civic 1998-01 CR-V 2000-02 Insight 1999-03 Odyssey 2003 Pilot 2000-03 S2000 CORRECTIVE ACTION Test and, if necessary, replace the EVAP bypass solenoid valve. Replace the ECM/PCM if needed. PARTS INFORMATION Refer to the parts catalog for the appropriate part number and Honda code. WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Failed Part: EVAP Bypass Solenoid Valve: Page 4845 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Page 9691 Wires Page 7476 Refrigerant Oil: Fluid Type Specifications A/C Oil Specifications A/C Oil Specifications Lubricant Type Sanden SP-10 or equivalent Page 8521 Power Mirror Motor: Testing and Inspection Power Mirror Actuator Test 1. Remove the door panel. 2. Disconnect the 3P connector (A) from the power mirror (B). 3. Check actuator operation by connecting battery power and ground according to the table. 4. If the actuator does not operate as specified, replace it. Page 4763 EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 9735 Diodes How to Identify Wiring Color-Coded Insulation Wire Color Component Locations Climate Control - Component Location Index Page 3911 Engine Control Module: Service and Repair ECM/PCM Idle Learn Procedure ECM Idle Learn Procedure The idle learn procedure must be done so that the ECM can learn the engine idle characteristics. Do the idle learn procedure whenever you do any of these actions: - Disconnect the battery. - Replace the ECM or disconnect its connector. - Reset the ECM. NOTE: Erasing DTCs with Honda PGM Tester does require the idle learn procedure to be done again. - Remove the No.18 (7.5 A) fuse from the under-dash fuse/relay box. - Remove the No.2 (80 A) fuse from the under-hood fuse/relay box. - Remove the PGM-FI main relay. - Remove the battery wire from the under-hood fuse/relay box. - Disconnect any of the connectors from the under-hood fuse/relay box. - Disconnect the connector (C103, C502) between the dashborad wire harness and engine wire harness. - Disconnect the G1 terminal from the transmission housing. - Adjust the idle speed. To complete the idle learn procedure do this: 1. Make sure all electrical items (A/C, audio, rear defogger, lights, etc.) are turned off. 2. Start the engine. Hold the engine speed at 3,000 rpm with no load (in Park or neutral) until the radiator fan comes on, or the engine coolant temperature reaches 176 °F (80 °) - 221 °F (100 °). 3. Let the engine idle for about 5 minutes with the throttle fully closed and with all electrical items off. NOTE: If the radiator fan comes on during this step, the time when it is operating must not be included in the 5 minutes. Page 3094 2. Remove the carpet hold-down clips on the door sill. 3. Remove the carpet hold-down clip in the passenger's footwell under the glove box. Pull back the carpet. 4. Remove the ECM cover mounting nuts. 5. Pivot the lower edge of the ECM cover off the mounting studs. Lift the upper edge of the cover off the mounting studs, then pull the cover down and back so it clears the evaporator drain tube. 6. Remove the two bolts mounting the ECM to the cover. Disconnect the ECM connectors, and remove the ECM. 7. Install the new ECM and the cover in the reverse order of removal. 8. Reinstall the carpet and the door sill trim. 9. Connect the PGM Tester to the data link connector (DLC). 10. Use the PGM Tester to program the customer's immobilizer key codes into the ECM. Verify that all the keys will start the engine. NOTE: Make sure the PGM Tester software is SN32OP or later. 11. Do the idle learn procedure: ^ Warm the engine to normal operating temperature. ^ Let the engine idle for 10 minutes. If the radiator fan comes on, do not include its running time in the 10 minutes. 12. Center-punch a completion mark above the eighth character of the engine compartment VIN. 13. For California residents: Fill out and give to your customer a Vehicle Emission Recall - Proof of Correction certificate. Advise them to keep this certificate as proof that the emissions recall was completed. Your customer will need to submit this certificate to the DMV if the DMV requests it. A supply of these salmon-colored certificates was sent to your service manager. If you need more, use reorder number Y0657. Component Locations Relay Box: Component Locations 28. Left Front Side of Engine Compartment 33. Underside of Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box Page 9323 Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution diagram set to get a more detailed picture of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Page 10055 Diodes How to Identify Wiring Color-Coded Insulation Wire Color Page 1263 Crankshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation Camshaft Position (CMP) A and B (Top Dead Center (TDC) 1 and 2), and Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensors The CMPA (TDC 1) and CMPB (TDC 2) sensors detect the position of the No.1 cylinder as a reference for sequential fuel injection to each cylinder. The CKP sensor detects engine speed and determines ignition timing and timing for fuel injection of each cylinder. Page 6617 Connectors - "C" Service and Repair Front Door Window Glass Weatherstrip: Service and Repair Door Glass Outer Weatherstrip Replacement NOTE: - Put on gloves to protect your hands. - Take care not to scratch the door and molding. 1. Remove these items: - Door sash outer trim - Power mirror 2. Starting at the rear, pry the door glass outer weatherstrip (A) up, and detach the clips (B) 3. Install the weatherstrip in the reverse order of removal, and replace any damaged clips. Page 7373 In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locater) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: - Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. Locations Turn Signal/Hazard Flasher - Component Location Index Page 10285 Windshield Washer Switch: Testing and Inspection Wiper/Washer Switch Test/Replacement 1. Remove the steering column covers. 2. Disconnect the 14P connector (B) from the wiper/washer switch (A). 3. Remove the two screws, then pull out the switch. 4. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table. If the continuity is not as specified, replace the switch. Page 4210 DTC P0401 thru P0562 Page 6698 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 3681 Splices Components Ground - "G" Locations Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Locations Relay And Control Unit Locations - Dashboard Page 1269 Cylinder Identification Sensor: Diagrams TDC Sensor #1 TDC Sensor #2 Service and Repair Oil Pressure Switch (For Fuel Pump): Service and Repair VTEC Oil Pressure Switch Replacement 1. Disconnect the VTEC oil pressure switch connector, then remove the VTEC oil pressure switch (A). 2. Install the VTEC oil pressure switch using a new O-ring (B). Diagram Information and Instructions Variable Valve Timing Solenoid: Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System Terminal Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown below is #6. Page 5320 5. Torque the mounting bolts in a crisscross pattern. Tighten the bolts in several steps to prevent warping the diaphragm spring. Pressure Plate Mounting Bolt Torque: 25 Nm (2.6 kgf-m, 19 lbf-ft) 6. Remove the special tools. 7. Make sure the diaphragm spring fingers are all the same height. Page 4248 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: - Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest OHMS" range. Page 8807 Wire Color Coding Distinct Of Circuit By Wire Base Color All wires have color-coded insulation. Wires belonging to a system's main harness will have a single color. Wires belonging to a system's sub-circuits will have a colored stripe. Striped wires use the codes found in the chart to show wire size and colors. Abbreviations are used to indicate wire color within a circuit diagram. Wire Color Abbreviations The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics: WHT................................... White YEL................................... Yellow BLK................................... Black BLU................................... Blue GRN................................... Green RED................................... Red ORN................................... Orange PNK................................... Pink BRN................................... Brown GRY................................... Gray PUR................................... Purple LT BLU................................... Light Blue LT GRN................................... Light Green The wire insulation has one color or one color with another color stripe. The second color is the stripe. How to Identify Connector Terminals How to Identify Connector Terminals Page 3287 Cavity Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity / terminal shown is # 6. Circuit Schematics Page 1856 Connectors - "C" Page 9284 Key Reminder Switch: Testing and Inspection Ignition Key Switch Test Ignition Key Switch Test SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations, precautions, and procedures before performing repairs or service. 1. Remove the driver's pocket. 2. Disconnect the 2P connector from the dashboard wire harness B. 3. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position. - With the ignition key inserted, there should be continuity. - With the ignition key removed, there should be no continuity. 4. If the continuity is not as specified, replace the steering lock assembly. Page 8440 43. Under Left Side of Dash (Honda Accessory) Page 6152 Motor Assist (acceleration) During acceleration, the motor assists the engine by generating up to 49 Nm (5 kg.m, 36 lb.ft) of torque. The motor assists the engine until the BCM determines the battery state of charge is at or below a predetermined limit. At that point, motor assist will stop to prevent battery discharge. Regenerative Control (deceleration) During deceleration, the motor functions as an electrical generator to charge the battery. Kinetic energy that is normally wasted during braking is transformed into electrical energy. The motor will charge the battery until the BCM sees that the battery state of charge reaches a predetermined limit. At that point, the motor stops regeneration to prevent battery overcharge. Starter Function (at start-up) The motor starts the engine under normal conditions. Because the motor is directly connected to the engine's crankshaft, it is much quieter and smoother than conventional starter. When outside temperature is extremely low, when the battery state of charge is low, or if there is a problem with the IMA system, the conventional starter is used to start the engine. Locations 42. Under Left Side of Dash Locations Hazard Warning Switch: Locations Turn Signal/Hazard Flasher - Component Location Index Page 5978 ABS Control Unit Inputs and Outputs for 25P Connector Page 2071 Connectors - "C" Page 9955 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: Page 10064 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. Page 5852 - Before installing the wheel, clean the mating surface of the brake disc and the inside of the wheel. - Set the wheel alignment. See: Maintenance/Alignment Page 4051 5. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). Measure voltage between body ground and PGM-FI main relay (fuel pump) 4P connector terminal No.2, and between PGM-FI main relay (IGP) 4P connector terminal No.4. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 7. NO - Go to step 6. 6. Check for a blown No.2 (15 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box. Is the fuse blown? YES - Repair the short in the wire between PGM-FI main relay and the No.2 fuse. NO - Repair the open in the wire between the PGM-FI main relay and the No.2 (15 A) fuse. 7. Turn the ignition switch OFF, and disconnect ECM connector A (32P). 8. Check for continuity between PGM-FI main relay (fuel pump) 4P connector terminal No.3 and ECM connector terminal A15. Is there continuity? YES - Go to step 9. NO - Repair open in the wire between the PGM-FI main relay and the ECM (A15). 9. Reconnect ECM connector A (32P) and the PGM-FI main relay connectors. Page 9316 Splices Components Ground - "G" Page 1248 16. Measure voltage between the clutch switch 2P connector terminal No.2 and body ground with the clutch pedal pressed. Is there approx. 5 V? YES - Repair short in the wire between the clutch switch and G402. NO - Repair open in the wire between the ECM (B14) and the clutch switch. Page 9569 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. Page 10078 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 3368 10. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and measure voltage between ECM connector terminals B1 and B20, and between B9 and B20. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 11. NO - Check for an open in the wires between the PGM-FI main relay and the ECM (B1, B9). If the wires are OK, replace the PGM-FI main relay. 11. Turn the ignition switch OFF, then ON (II) again, and measure voltage between ECM connector terminals A15 and B2 within the first two seconds after the ignition switch is turned ON (II). Is there 1.0 V or less? YES - The PGM-FI main relay may be faulty. NO - Update the ECM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM, replace the original ECM. Page 6721 The steering wheel offset gauge is a sticker that attaches to the steering wheel and the steering column cover. Place the sticker on the steering wheel when the steering wheel is straight. When you test-drive the vehicle, you can read how many millimeters the steering wheel is off-center. NOTE: If the vehicle is pulling, repairing the pull may correct the steering wheel offset. Page 1526 Wiper Switch: Testing and Inspection Wiper/Washer Switch Test/Replacement 1. Remove the steering column covers. 2. Disconnect the 14P connector (B) from the wiper/washer switch (A). 3. Remove the two screws, then pull out the switch. 4. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table. If the continuity is not as specified, replace the switch. Page 2410 6. If you feel too much or too little drag, loosen the locknut (A), and turn the adjusting screw (B) until the drag on the feeler gauge is correct. 7. Tighten the locknut and recheck the clearance. Repeat the adjustment, if necessary. 8. Rotate the crankshaft 240° clockwise (camshaft sprocket turn 120°). The second TDC mark (A) should be aligned with the cylinder head surface. 9. Check and, if necessary, adjust the valve clearance on No. 3 cylinder. 10. Rotate the crankshaft 240° clockwise (camshaft sprocket turn 120°). The third TDC mark should be aligned with the cylinder head surface. 11. Check and, if necessary, adjust the valve clearance on No. 2 cylinder. 12. Install the cylinder head cover. Service and Repair Speedometer Gear, M/T: Service and Repair For further information regarding this component and the system that it is a part of, please refer to Differential, Manual Transaxle; Service and Repair. Page 9040 In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locater) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: - Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. Page 6563 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. Page 3555 Knock Sensor: Service and Repair Replacement 1. Remove the throttle body. 2. Disconnect the knock sensor connector, then remove the knock sensor. 3. Install the knock sensor. 4. Install the throttle body. Page 10008 Cavity Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity / terminal shown is # 6. Circuit Schematics Page 9616 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 461 ECM Inputs and Outputs at Connector B (25P) Part 2 Page 5548 19. Install the hub bearing unit (A) on the knuckle (B), and tighten the flange bolts (C) to the specified torque. 20. Install the splash guard. NOTE: Replace the splash guard if it is corroded. 21. Press a new hub bearing unit (A) into the hub (B) using the special tools and a press. 22. Install the knuckle/hub/hub bearing unit in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - Use a new spindle nut on reassembly. - Before installing the new spindle nut, apply a small amount of engine oil to the seating surface of the nut. After tightening, use a drift to stake the spindle nut shoulder against the driveshaft. - Tighten all mounting hardware to the specified torque values. - Before installing the hub/hub bearing unit, clean the mating surface of the hub/hub bearing unit and the knuckle. - Before installing the brake disc, clean the mating surface of the hub and the inside of the brake disc. - Before installing the wheel, clean the mating surface of the brake disc and the inside of the wheel. - Set the wheel alignment. Page 8613 Doors - Component Location Index Page 8000 4. Disconnect the wiper motor connector from the hatch harness connector. 5. Pull the hatch harness out through the opening between the hatch frame and the wiper motor mounting bracket. 6. Apply a piece of self-adhesive foam padding from the kit to the edge of the motor mounting bracket. 7. Connect the sub-harness from the kit to the wiper motor connector. Page 7552 5. Behind Middle of Bumper Page 9880 32. Left Front Side of Engine Compartment Page 7335 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Page 2550 55. Radiator Fan Switch Locations Relay And Control Unit Location - Engine Compartment Page 5436 7. Loosen the locknut (A) on the shift cable (B). 8. Remove the spring clip (C) and washers (D), and separate the shift cable from the control lever (E) and the shift cable bracket (F). 9. Remove the grommet, and pull the shift cable out. 10. Insert the new shift cable through the grommet hole, then install the grommet. 11. Verify that the transmission is in the [A] position on the control lever. 12. Install the shift cable end (A) on the control lever (B). Install the shift cable on its bracket (C), and tighten the locknut (D). Do not bend the shift cable excessively. 13. Install the plastic washer (E), then the steel washer (F), and install the spring clip (G) in the direction shown. 14. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and verify that the [R] position indicator comes on. Page 6754 Failed Part: P/N 53560-SDA-AO1 H/C 7139652 Defect Code: 07406 Symptom Code: 03602 Skill Level: Repair Technician Diagnostic Trouble Code: To create the 15-digit DTC, see the applicable repair procedure. Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. TOOL DESCRIPTIONS The holding force gauge measures the amount of pull on the vehicle. It is a bracket that counts as one weight, plus five removable weights. During the test-drive, attach the bracket and the weights to the steering wheel on the side opposite the pulling direction. For example, if the vehicle pulls to the right, attach the bracket and weights to the left side of the steering wheel. Start with the maximum amount of weight on the steering wheel, and remove the weights until the vehicle drives in a straight line. When recording the pull on the worksheet, write down the direction of the pull (lefi or right) and the number of weights required to balance the pull (one through six). For example, if you have the bracket and two weights on the steering wheel, then record this as three weights. NOTE: The bracket counts as one weight. Page 2765 111. Top Rear of Battery Module Page 8285 Diodes How to Identify Wiring Color-Coded Insulation Wire Color Page 1078 Fuel Gauge Sender: Locations Fuel Supply System - Component Location Index Service and Repair Cowl Moulding / Trim: Service and Repair Cowl Cover Replacement NOTE: - Take care not to scratch the body. - Use a clip remover to remove the clips. 1. Remove the windshield wiper arms . 2. Release all the clips (A), and remove the rear hood seal (B). 3. Release all the clips (C, D), and remove the cowl cover (E). 4. Install all removed parts in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - Check for damaged or stress-whitened clips, and replace them with new ones. - Push the clips into place securely. Page 6766 NOTE: You must calibrate the gauge with the same weight in the vehicle that you will use for the test-drive. If you plan to have an assistant help you during the test-drive, calibrate the gauge while both of you are sitting in the vehicle. The steering wheel offset gauge is a sticker that attaches to the steering wheel and the steering column cover. Place the sticker on the steering wheel when the steering wheel is straight. When you test-drive the vehicle, you can read how many millimeters the steering wheel is off-center. NOTE: If the vehicle is pulling, repairing the pull may correct the steering wheel offset. Page 9084 Is there about 5 V? YES - Replace the sensor that restored about 5 V when disconnected. NO - Go to step 49. 49. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 50. Disconnect the 3P connectors from the following sensors. - Exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) valve position sensor - Brake booster pressure sensor - Fuel tank pressure (FTP) sensor - Throttle position (TP) sensor 51. Disconnect ECM connector C (31P). 52. Check for continuity between ECM connector terminal C28 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Repair short in the wire between the ECM (C28) and the EGR valve position sensor, brake booster pressure sensor, FTP sensor, or TP sensor. NO - Update the ECM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM, replace the original ECM. 53. Measure voltage between body ground and ECM connector terminal B6. Is there about 5 V? YES - Update the ECM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM, replace the original ECM. NO - Go to step 54. 54. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 55. Disconnect the TCM 22P connector. 56. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). Page 2216 125. Below Front of Engine Page 1242 Camshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair Replacement 1. Disconnect connectors from the camshaft position (CMP) sensor A (top dead center (TDC) sensor 1) and CMP sensor B (TDC sensor 2) Remove the CMP sensor A (TDC sensor 1) sensor (A) and the CMP sensor B (TDC sensor 2) sensor (B). 2. Install the CMP sensor A (TDC sensor 1) sensor and the CMP sensor B (TDC sensor 2) using new O-rings (C). Page 9163 Dimmer Switch: Diagnostic Aids Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Page 9213 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Locations Hazard Warning Switch: Locations Turn Signal/Hazard Flasher - Component Location Index Page 1069 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Page 4432 Oxygen Sensor: Description and Operation Secondary Oxygen Sensor Secondary Heated Oxygen Sensor (Secondary HO2S) The secondary HO2S detects the oxygen content in the exhaust gas downstream of the Three Way Catalytic Converter (TWC) and sends signals to the ECM which varies the duration of fuel injection accordingly. To stabilize its output, the sensor has an internal heater. The secondary HO2S is installed behind the TWC. Page 6596 to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Locations Page 10018 First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Emissions - OBD II DTC's And Associated Monitors Engine Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins Emissions - OBD II DTC's And Associated Monitors 03-020 April 2, 2010 Applies To: All OBD II-equipped models except Passport OBD II DTCs and Their Associated Monitors (Supersedes 03-020, dated March 29, 2003, to revise the information marked by the black bars and asterisks) *REVISION SUMMARY Numerous DTCs were added. Refer to the list for details.* Following is a list of all OBD II DTCs and their associated monitors for all Honda automobiles with OBD II. No one model has every DTC in the list. DTC P0AA6 thru P0A9E Page 7666 Clockspring Assembly / Spiral Cable: Service and Repair Cable Reel Replacement Removal 1. Make sure the wheels are aligned straight ahead. 2. Disconnect the battery negative cable, and wait at least3 minutes. 3. Remove the driver's airbag. 4. Remove the steering wheel. 5. Remove the column cover screws (A), then remove the column covers (B, C). 6. Disconnect the floor wire harness 2P connector (A) from the cable reel, then disconnect the dashboard wire harness A 4P connector (B) from the cable reel (C). Page 1588 ^ Loosen the front subframe bolts. See the applicable service manual for more information. NOTE: The front wheels are being viewed from the rear of the vehicle. ^ Depending which way you need to shift the subframe, insert a pry bar between the subframe and body at both the front and rear positions of the subframe. NOTE: Be careful not to damage the vehicle. You could bend and damage the frame and/or body if you apply too much pressure. ^ Press on both pry bars to shift the subframe. It will move only a few millimeters. This should adjust the camber about 0.2-0.5°. ^ While holding the subframe in place, have an assistant torque the subframe bolts to their proper torque. Front Camber Adjustment, Strut Suspension ^ Raise the vehicle, and remove the front tires. ^ Loosen the damper pinch bolts and the flange nuts. ^ Adjust the camber by moving the bottom of the damper within the range of the damper pinch bolt free play. NOTE: Some vehicles have special pinch bolts that allow more adjustment. For more information, refer to the parts catalog. ^ Tighten the damper pinch bolts to the specified torque. ^ Reinstall the front wheels and lower the vehicle. Bounce the front of the vehicle several times to stabilize the suspension. Page 8822 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: Page 4710 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 9178 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. Page 6905 Splices Components Ground - "G" Page 6019 71. Wheel Speed Sensor, Right Rear Page 1947 Wheel Bearing: Service and Repair Rear Hub Bearing Unit Replacement NOTICE: To avoid damage, do not strike aluminum parts with a metal hammer. If necessary, tap gently with a plastic tipped hammer. NOTE: Bolts and nuts with the [star] mark are special corrosion-resistant Dacro fasteners. Use the same type if replacement is necessary. 1. Raise the rear of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper location. 2. Remove the fender skirt. 3. Remove the center cap (A), wheel nuts (B), and rear wheel (C). Page 6006 Braking Sensor/Switch: Adjustments Brake Pedal and Brake Pedal Position Switch/Idle Stop Switch Adjustment Pedal Height 1. Disconnect the brake pedal position switch connector, loosen the brake pedal position switch locknut (A), and back off the switch (B) until it is no longer touching the brake pedal. 2. Disconnect the idle stop switch connector, and loosen the idle stop switch (CVT). 3. Lift up the carpet. At the insulator cutout, measure the pedal height (C) from the middle of the right side center of the pedal pad (D). Standard pedal height (with carpet removed): 184 mm (7 1/4 inch) 4. Loosen the pushrod locknut (A), and screw the pushrod in or out with a pair of pliers until the standard pedal height from the floor is reached. After adjustment, tighten the locknut firmly. Do not adjust the pedal height with the pushrod pressed. Page 838 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. Page 2292 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. Page 2162 Rocker Arm Assembly: Service and Repair For further information regarding this component and the system it is a part of, please refer to Cylinder Head Assembly; Service and Repair. Locations Oil Pressure Sender: Locations Gauges - Component Location Index Page 7477 Refrigerant Oil: Service and Repair A/C Refrigerant Oil Replacement Recommended PAG oil: SANDEN SP-10: - P/N 38897-P13-A01AH: 120 ml (4 fl.oz) - P/N 38899-P13-A01: 40 ml (1 1/3 fl.oz) Page 3573 5. Adjust the idle speed. If necessary, by turning the idle adjusting screw (A) 1/2-turn clockwise or counterclockwise. NOTE: - Do not turn the idle adjusting screw (A) more than 1/2-turn without checking the idle speed. - Do not turn the idle adjusting screw when the air conditioner is on. 6. After turning the idle adjusting screw (A) 1/2-turn, check the idle speed again. If it is out of spec, turn the idle adjusting screw (A) 1/2-turn again. 7. Let the engine idle for 1 minute with the heater fan switch on HI and air conditioner on, then check the idle speed. NOTE: If the idle speed is not within specification, go to the Symptom Troubleshooting index. See: Computers and Control Systems/Testing and Inspection/Symptom Related Diagnostic Procedures 8. Reconnect the EVAP canister purge valve 2P connector. 9. Do the ECM idle learn procedure. Page 6929 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. Page 3465 Oxygen Sensor: Connector Locations 16. Rear of Engine 127. Below Rear of Engine Page 6260 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 3709 146. DLC Page 3694 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. Page 8750 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. Page 245 Splices Components Ground - "G" Page 7777 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: Locations Door Switch: Locations 85. Left B-pillar 90. Right B-pillar Page 4926 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Locations SRS Components Page 8510 Power Door Lock Switch: Testing and Inspection Driver's Door Lock Switch Test Driver's Door Lock Switch Test 1. Remove the driver's door panel. 2. Disconnect the 3P connector from the switch. 3. Check for continuity between the terminal in each switch position according to the table. 4. If the continuity is not as specified, replace the driver's door lock switch. Locations Relay And Control Unit Locations - Dashboard Page 6502 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Page 10145 Vanity Lamp: Electrical Diagrams Diagram 114-1 Diagrams: Other diagrams referred to by number (See Diagram ##-#, etc.) within these diagrams can be found at Diagrams by Number. See: Diagrams/Electrical Diagrams/Diagrams By Number Locations: Location photographs (references to PHOTOS) referred to within these diagrams can be found at Locations by Photo Number. See: Locations/Component Locations/Locations By Photo Number Connector Views: Connector terminal views (references to VIEWS) referred to within these diagrams can be found at Connector Views by View Page 8810 All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416 etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector or by a capital letter (A, B, C etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Connector Views that shows the connector terminals wire colors connector cavity numbers and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints shown on diagram [8] . Except for the DLC (data link connector) disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554 for example means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Specifications Page 8647 Wire Color Coding Distinct Of Circuit By Wire Base Color All wires have color-coded insulation. Wires belonging to a system's main harness will have a single color. Wires belonging to a system's sub-circuits will have a colored stripe. Striped wires use the codes found in the chart to show wire size and colors. Abbreviations are used to indicate wire color within a circuit diagram. Wire Color Abbreviations The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics: WHT................................... White YEL................................... Yellow BLK................................... Black BLU................................... Blue GRN................................... Green RED................................... Red ORN................................... Orange PNK................................... Pink BRN................................... Brown GRY................................... Gray PUR................................... Purple LT BLU................................... Light Blue LT GRN................................... Light Green The wire insulation has one color or one color with another color stripe. The second color is the stripe. How to Identify Connector Terminals How to Identify Connector Terminals Page 2091 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Page 9586 Wire Color Abbreviations Page 6739 ^ Loosen the front subframe bolts. See the applicable service manual for more information. NOTE: The front wheels are being viewed from the rear of the vehicle. ^ Depending which way you need to shift the subframe, insert a pry bar between the subframe and body at both the front and rear positions of the subframe. NOTE: Be careful not to damage the vehicle. You could bend and damage the frame and/or body if you apply too much pressure. ^ Press on both pry bars to shift the subframe. It will move only a few millimeters. This should adjust the camber about 0.2-0.5°. ^ While holding the subframe in place, have an assistant torque the subframe bolts to their proper torque. Front Camber Adjustment, Strut Suspension ^ Raise the vehicle, and remove the front tires. ^ Loosen the damper pinch bolts and the flange nuts. ^ Adjust the camber by moving the bottom of the damper within the range of the damper pinch bolt free play. NOTE: Some vehicles have special pinch bolts that allow more adjustment. For more information, refer to the parts catalog. ^ Tighten the damper pinch bolts to the specified torque. ^ Reinstall the front wheels and lower the vehicle. Bounce the front of the vehicle several times to stabilize the suspension. Page 8257 Page 2697 4. Remove the switch cover from the battery module, then remove the locking cover from the battery module switch. 5. Turn off the battery module switch. Reinstall the locking cover on the switch, and remove the 5 mm bolt on the side of the switch. 6. Wait at least 5 minutes to allow the capacitors to discharge. 7. Remove the three clips from the middle bulkhead carpet. 8. Remove the under-cover (two bolts, two clips, and three screw clips). Page 7138 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. Page 3488 Variable Valve Timing Pressure Switch: Locations 6. Front of Engine Page 7860 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. Page 5522 9. Wrap the splines on the driveshaft (A) with vinyl tape (B) to prevent damage to the boot. 10. Remove the outboard boot (C). Take care not to damage the boot. 11. Remove the vinyl tape. Reassembly Special Tools Required Boot band tool, KD-3191 or equivalent, commercially available - Boot band pincers, KENT-MOORE J-35910 or equivalent, commercially available NOTE: Refer to the Exploded View as needed during this procedure. Inboard Joint Side: 1. Wrap the splines with vinyl tape (A) to prevent damage to the inboard boot and dynamic damper (for right driveshaft). 2. Install the dynamic damper (B) and inboard boot (C) to the driveshaft (D), then remove the vinyl tape. Take care not to damage the inboard boot and dynamic damper. 3. Install the spider (A) onto the driveshaft (B) by aligning the marks (C) on the spider and the end of the driveshaft. 4. Fit the circlip (D) into the driveshaft groove. Always rotate the circlip in its groove to make sure it is fully seated. Page 3982 In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locater) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: - Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. Page 3351 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 955 Evaporator Temperature Sensor / Switch: Testing and Inspection Evaporator Temperature Sensor Test 1. Dip the sensor in ice water, and measure the resistance between its terminals. 2. Then pour hot water on the sensor, and check for a change in resistance. 3. Compare the resistance readings with the specifications shown in the graph; the resistance should be within the specifications. Page 92 168. ABS Modulator-Control Unit Page 8396 Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Service Precautions Precautions For Electrical Inspections Precautions For Electrical Inspections When using electrical test equipment, insert the probe of the tester into the wire side of the connector. Do not insert the probe of the tester into the terminal side of the connector, and do not tamper with the connector. Use a U-shaped probe. Do not insert the probe forcibly. Use specified service connectors in troubleshooting. Using improper tools could cause an error in inspection due to poor metal-to-metal contact. Page 3739 7. Remove the rear clips from the middle bulkhead carpet. 8. Remove the under-cover (two bolts, two clips, and three screw clips). 9. Remove the intelligent power unit (I PU) lid (six Torx bolts and 17 hex bolts). 10. Measure the voltage between the junction board terminals. There should be 10 V or less. ^ If you have more than 10 V, there's a problem in the MA system. Look for and troubleshoot any DTCs before continuing. ^ If you have 10 V or less, continue to step 11. Diagram Information and Instructions Variable Valve Timing Actuator: Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System Terminal Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown below is #6. Locations Low Beam Relay: Locations Instrument Panel View Page 7439 Heater Core Temperature Sensor / Switch: Testing and Inspection Heater Core Temperature Sensor Test Dip the sensor in ice water, and measure the resistance. Then pour hot water on the sensor, and check for a change in resistance. Compare the resistance reading between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals of the heater core temperature sensor with the specifications shown in the graph; the resistance should be within the specifications. Page 4354 Camshaft Position Sensor: Diagrams 63. TDC Sensor 1 64. TDC Sensor 2 Page 4011 Fuel Supply System - Component Location Index Part 2 Page 8717 30. Clutch Pedal Position Switch (M/T) Page 4341 Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Testing and Inspection Power Relay Test Power Relay Test Normally-open type A: 1. Turn the battery module switch OFF, and measure the voltage. 2. Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is disconnected. A/C compressor clutch relay - Air fuel ratio sensor relay - Condenser fan relay - Daytime running lights relay (Canada) - Headlight relay 1 - Headlight relay 2 - High speed battery module fan control relay - High speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - High voltage conductor control relay - Horn relay - Ignition hold relay - Low speed battery module fan control relay - Low speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - Power window relay - Radiator fan relay - Rear window defogger relay - Reverse relay - Starter cut relay - Taillight relay Page 9138 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. Page 9333 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 6263 Diagram 155 Diagrams: Other diagrams referred to by number (See Diagram ##-#, etc.) within these diagrams can be found at Diagrams by Number. See: Diagrams/Electrical Diagrams/Diagrams By Number Locations: Location photographs (references to PHOTOS) referred to within these diagrams can be found at Locations by Photo Number. See: Locations/Component Locations/Locations By Photo Number Connector Views: Connector terminal views (references to VIEWS) referred to within these diagrams can be found at Connector Views by View Number. See: Diagrams/Connector Views/Connector Views By View Number Page 9634 Hazard Warning Switch: Testing and Inspection Hazard Warning Switch Test/Replacement 1. Remove the instrument panel. 2. Disconnect the 10P connector (A) from the hazard warning switch (B). 3. Remove the two screws from the switch. 4. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table. 5. If the continuity check is not as specified, replace the illumination bulb (B) or the switch. Page 9363 Backup Lamp Switch: Service and Repair Back-Up Light and Neutral Position Switch Test 1. Disconnect the back-up light (A) or neutral position (B) switch 2P connector. 2. Check the continuity between the terminals (C). There should be continuity with the shift lever in reverse or neutral position. 3. If necessary, replace the switch. Page 9211 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 1246 Clutch Switch: Testing and Inspection Clutch Switch Signal Circuit Troubleshooting 1. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 2. Measure voltage between ECM connector terminals B14 and B20. Is there approx. 5 V? YES - Go to step 3. NO - Go to step 5. 3. Press the clutch pedal. 4. Measure voltage between ECM connector terminals B14 and B20. Is voltage less than 1.0 V? YES - Clutch switch signal is OK. NO - Go to step 12. 5. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 6. Disconnect the clutch switch 2P connector. 7. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 8. Measure voltage between ECM connector terminals B14 and B20. Is there approx. 5 V? Page 3764 DTC P0563 thru P0748 Page 9964 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 6534 Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box Part 2 Page 9774 Splices Components Ground - "G" Page 8333 - Check the damper housing position and for damage. Page 906 55. Radiator Fan Switch Page 3525 Throttle Position Sensor: Description and Operation Throttle Position (TP) Sensor The TP sensor is a potentiometer connected to the throttle valve shaft. As the throttle position changes, the sensor varies the signal voltage to the ECM. The TP sensor is not replaceable apart from the throttle body. Page 4309 Wire Color Coding Distinct Of Circuit By Wire Base Color All wires have color-coded insulation. Wires belonging to a system's main harness will have a single color. Wires belonging to a system's sub-circuits will have a colored stripe. Striped wires use the codes found in the chart to show wire size and colors. Abbreviations are used to indicate wire color within a circuit diagram. Wire Color Abbreviations The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics: WHT................................... White YEL................................... Yellow BLK................................... Black BLU................................... Blue GRN................................... Green RED................................... Red ORN................................... Orange PNK................................... Pink BRN................................... Brown GRY................................... Gray PUR................................... Purple LT BLU................................... Light Blue LT GRN................................... Light Green The wire insulation has one color or one color with another color stripe. The second color is the stripe. How to Identify Connector Terminals How to Identify Connector Terminals Page 5067 Throttle Cable/Linkage: Adjustments Throttle Cable Adjustment 1. Remove the throttle link cover. 2. Check cable free play at the throttle linkage. Cable deflection (A) should be 10 - 12 mm (3/8 - 1/2 in.). 3. If deflection (A) is not within spec (10 - 12 mm, 3/8 - 1/2 in.) loosen the locknut (B), turn the adjusting nut (C) until the deflection (A) is as specified, then retighten the locknut (B). 4. With the cable properly adjusted, check the throttle valve to be sure it opens fully when you push the accelerator pedal to the floor. Also check the throttle valve to be sure it returns to the idle position whenever you release the accelerator pedal. Campaign - ECM Update Engine Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins Campaign - ECM Update 00-042 April 5, 2000 Applies To: 2000 Insight - From VIN JHMZE1...YT000001 thru JHMZE1...YT000440 Product Update: Insight ECM BACKGROUND The engine may not start it the ambient temperature is below 0°F (-20°C). CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION All owners of affected vehicles will be mailed a notification of this campaign. An example of a customer notification is shown. CORRECTIVE ACTION Replace the ECM (engine control module) with an improved unit. After the ECM replacement, the immobilizer system must be reinitialized. Make sure you have all the customer's keys. Page 4934 Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Testing and Inspection Power Relay Test Power Relay Test Normally-open type A: 1. Turn the battery module switch OFF, and measure the voltage. 2. Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is disconnected. A/C compressor clutch relay - Air fuel ratio sensor relay - Condenser fan relay - Daytime running lights relay (Canada) - Headlight relay 1 - Headlight relay 2 - High speed battery module fan control relay - High speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - High voltage conductor control relay - Horn relay - Ignition hold relay - Low speed battery module fan control relay - Low speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - Power window relay - Radiator fan relay - Rear window defogger relay - Reverse relay - Starter cut relay - Taillight relay Page 191 40. Upper Left Kick Panel Area Page 4306 Splices Components Ground - "G" Page 8728 Diodes How to Identify Wiring Color-Coded Insulation Wire Color Page 5001 Terminals - "T" Shielding Switches Fuses Page 1047 Cavity Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity / terminal shown is # 6. Circuit Schematics Page 438 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: - Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest OHMS" range. Page 3795 Page 2541 Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Locations 17. Rear of Engine Page 9712 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Page 933 Is there battery voltage? YES - Check for loose wires or poor connections at climate control unit connector B (22P) and at the A/C pressure switch 4P connector. If the connections are good, substitute a known-good climate control unit, and recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away, replace the original climate control unit. NO - Repair open in the wire between the climate control unit and the A/C pressure switch. 10. Check for proper A/C system pressure. Is the pressure within specifications? YES - Replace the A/C pressure switch. NO - Repair the A/C pressure problem. Page 8823 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Page 10284 139. Wiper/Washer Switch Page 6909 Cavity Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity / terminal shown is # 6. Circuit Schematics Page 307 11. Lift out the battery module foam insert. 12. Remove the mounting bolts for the battery condition monitor (BCM) module and the motor control module (MCM). Disconnect the electrical connectors, then remove the modules. 13. Install the new BCM and MCM. Make sure all module connectors are secure. 14. Install the IPU lid. 15. Remove the locking cover from the battery module switch, install the 5 mm bolt, turn the switch on, reinstall the locking cover, and install the battery module switch cover. 16. Install the remaining parts in the reverse order of removal. 17. Reconnect the negative cable to the under-hood 12 V battery. Front Suspension Spring ( Coil / Leaf ): Service and Repair Front Front Strut Assembly Damper/Spring Replacement Special Tools Required Strut spring compressor, Branick MST-580A or Model 7200, or equivalent, commercially-available NOTICE: To avoid damage, do not strike aluminum parts with a metal hammer. If necessary, tap gently with a plastic tipped hammer. NOTE: Bolts and nuts with the [star] mark are special corrosion-resistant Dacro fasteners. Use the same type if replacement is necessary. Removal 1. Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper location. Remove the front wheels. PGM-FI Main Relay Circuit Troubleshooting Fuel Pump Relay: Testing and Inspection PGM-FI Main Relay Circuit Troubleshooting PGM-FI Main Relay Circuit Troubleshooting 1. Turn the ignition switch OFF, then disconnect the PGM-FI main relay connectors. 2. Check for continuity between body ground and PGM-FI main relay diode 2P connector terminal No.2. Is there continuity? YES - Go to step 3. NO - Repair open in the wire between the PGM-FI main relay and G101. 3. Measure voltage between body ground and PGM-FI main relay (IGP) 4P connector terminal No.2. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 5. NO - Go to step 4. 4. Check for a blown No.7 (15 A) fuse in the underhood fuse/relay box. Is the fuse blown? YES - Repair the short in the wire between the PGM-FI main relay and the No.7 (15 A) fuse. NO - Repair the open in the wire between the PGM-FI main relay and the No.7 (15 A) fuse. Page 5775 Wheel Speed Sensor: Testing and Inspection Inspection 1. Inspect the front and rear pursers for chipped or damaged teeth. 2. Measure the air gap between the wheel sensor and the purser all the way around while rotating the purser. Remove the rear brake disc to measure the gap on the rear wheel sensor. If the gap exceeds 1.0 mm (0.04 inch), check for a bent suspension arm. Standard: Front/Rear: 0.4 - 1.0 mm (0.02 - 0.04 inch) Page 1051 Door Switch: Diagnostic Aids Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Page 620 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. Page 3252 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Page 4748 Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow from power at the top of the diagram to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another for example is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors Page 8735 In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locater) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: - Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. Specifications Page 6305 In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locater) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: - Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. Page 2082 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: - Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest OHMS" range. Page 6559 EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 1133 Key Reminder Switch: Testing and Inspection Ignition Key Switch Test Ignition Key Switch Test SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations, precautions, and procedures before performing repairs or service. 1. Remove the driver's pocket. 2. Disconnect the 2P connector from the dashboard wire harness B. 3. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position. - With the ignition key inserted, there should be continuity. - With the ignition key removed, there should be no continuity. 4. If the continuity is not as specified, replace the steering lock assembly. Page 8042 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 7506 Condenser Fan Motor Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relay Test Normally-open type A: 1. Turn the battery module switch OFF, and measure the voltage. 2. Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is disconnected. A/C compressor clutch relay - Air fuel ratio sensor relay - Condenser fan relay - Daytime running lights relay (Canada) - Headlight relay 1 - Headlight relay 2 - High speed battery module fan control relay - High speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - High voltage conductor control relay - Horn relay - Ignition hold relay - Low speed battery module fan control relay - Low speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - Power window relay - Radiator fan relay - Rear window defogger relay - Reverse relay - Starter cut relay Page 10226 Power Window Switch: Testing and Inspection Master Switch Input Test Power Windows Master Switch Input Test NOTE: The power window control unit is built into the power window master switch, and it only controls the driver's window operations. 1. Remove the instrument panel. 2. Disconnect the 14P connector (A) from the master switch (B). 3. Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are all making good contact. - If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system. - If the terminals look OK, go to step 4. Page 7049 6. Remove the brake disc retaining flat screws (A). 7. Screw two 8 x 1.25 mm bolts (B) into the disc to push it away from the hub. Turn each bolt two turns at a time to prevent cocking the disc excessively. 8. Remove the flange bolts (A) and wheel sensor (B) from the knuckle. Do not disconnect the wheel sensor connector. 9. Turn the front of the knuckle outward. Tap the driveshaft (A) inward with a plastic hammer to allow space to install the special tool on the lower arm ball joint. Page 133 - Taillight relay Page 9991 47. Steering Wheel (Airbag Removed) Page 1790 3. Remove the glove box, then disconnect the passenger's airbag 2P connector (A) from the floor wire harness. Seat Belt Tensioner: 4. Remove the B-pillar lower trim panel, then disconnect the seat belt tensioner2P connector (A) from the floor wire harness. Page 8371 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: - Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest OHMS" range. Page 422 ECU Module Kit: P/N 06060-PHM-305, H/C 6912901 WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION Operation Number: 118121 Flat Rate Time: 0.8 hour Failed Part: P/N 1K100-PHM-010 H/C 6377170 Defect Code: 5AG Contention Code: L43 Template ID: 01-102A Skill Level: Repair Technician Disclaimer Repair Procedure 1. Write down the radio station presets. 2. Make sure the ignition switch is off, then disconnect the negative cable from the under-hood 12 V battery. 3. Remove the cargo floor mat and the cargo box (see page 20-43 of the 2000 Insight Service Manual). 4. Remove the battery module switch cover, then remove the locking cover from the switch. 5. Turn off the battery module switch. Reinstall the locking cover on the switch, and remove the 5 mm bolt on the side of the switch. 6. Wait at least 5 minutes for the capacitors in the system to discharge. Page 10079 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Locations SRS Components Page 2696 1. Inspect the cooling air intake behind the passenger seat and the cooling exhaust holes in the IMA case above the spare tire. If either is obstructed, remove the obstruction, and clear the code. Advise the customer that blocking the vents can cause this problem. 2. Remove the IMA cover (steps 3-10 of REPAIR PROCEDURE). Refer to page 12-4 of the 2000 Insight Service Manual. 3. Make sure the cooling fan on the battery pack is operating normally. Use the PGM Tester to run the fan in high and low speed modes. ^ If the fan is OK, check the part number on the battery condition monitor module. If the part number is not 1K100-PHM-030, then the battery condition monitor module and the motor control module need to be replaced. Go to REPAIR PROCEDURE. ^ If the fan is not OK, repair as needed. REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Write down the radio station presets. 2. Turn the ignition switch off, then disconnect the negative cable from the 12-volt battery in the engine compartment. 3. Remove the cargo area carpet and the cargo box. (Refer to page 20-43 of the Insight Service Manual). Page 9821 Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow from power at the top of the diagram to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another for example is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors Page 5834 6. Install the pad retainers (A). 7. Apply Dow Corning Molykote M77 grease to both sides of the pad shim (A), the back of the pads (B) and other areas indicated by the arrows. Wipe excess grease off the shim. Contaminated brake discs or pads reduce stopping ability. Keep grease off the discs and pads. 8. Install the brake pads and pad shim correctly. Install the pad with the wear indicator (C) on the inside. If you are reusing the pads, always reinstall the brake pads in their original positions to prevent a momentary loss of braking efficiency. 9. Push in the piston (A) so the caliper will fit over the pads. Make sure the piston boot is in position to prevent damaging it when pivoting the caliper down. 10. Pivot the caliper down into position. Being careful not to damage the pin boot, install the bolt (B), and tighten it to the specified torque. 11. Install the brake hose bracket onto the damper. 12. Press the brake pedal several times to make sure the brakes work, then test-drive. NOTE: Engagement of the brake may require a greater pedal stroke immediately after the brake pads have been replaced as a set. Several applications of the brake pedal will restore the normal pedal stroke. 13. After installation, check for leaks at hose and line joints or connections, and retighten if necessary. Page 10275 Wipers/Washers - Component Location Index Page 8385 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. Page 4474 94. TP Sensor Page 9554 All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416 etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector or by a capital letter (A, B, C etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Connector Views that shows the connector terminals wire colors connector cavity numbers and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints shown on diagram [8] . Except for the DLC (data link connector) disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554 for example means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Page 3143 DTC P1586 thru P1678 Page 3601 Spark Plug: Service and Repair Spark Plug Inspection/Replacement 1. Remove the spark plugs, and note which cylinder each one came from. 2. Inspect the electrodes and ceramic insulator. Burned or worn electrodes may be caused by: Advanced ignition timing - Loose spark plug - Insufficient cooling Fouled plug may be caused by: Retarded ignition timing - Oil in combustion chamber - Incorrect spark plug gap - Excessive idling/low speed running - Clogged air cleaner element - Deteriorated ignition coil 3. Do not adjust the gap of iridium tip plugs (A); replace the spark plug if the gap is out of specification. Electrode Gap: Standard (New): 1.0 - 1.1 mm (0.039 - 0.043 in.) Service Limit: 1.3 mm (0.051 in.) 4. Replace the plug at the specified interval, or if the center electrode is rounded (A). Page 2345 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. Page 8364 Wire Color Coding Distinct Of Circuit By Wire Base Color All wires have color-coded insulation. Wires belonging to a system's main harness will have a single color. Wires belonging to a system's sub-circuits will have a colored stripe. Striped wires use the codes found in the chart to show wire size and colors. Abbreviations are used to indicate wire color within a circuit diagram. Wire Color Abbreviations The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics: WHT................................... White YEL................................... Yellow BLK................................... Black BLU................................... Blue GRN................................... Green RED................................... Red ORN................................... Orange PNK................................... Pink BRN................................... Brown GRY................................... Gray PUR................................... Purple LT BLU................................... Light Blue LT GRN................................... Light Green The wire insulation has one color or one color with another color stripe. The second color is the stripe. How to Identify Connector Terminals How to Identify Connector Terminals Locations Intake Air System - Component Location Index Page 10050 Wire Color Abbreviations Page 9268 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: Page 3126 DTC P1679 thru P1860 Page 472 ECM/PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector C (31P) Part 2 Page 496 Splices Components Ground - "G" Page 4285 Engine Control Module: Testing and Inspection How to Troubleshoot Circuits At the ECM/PCM How To Troubleshoot Circuits At The ECM Special Tools Required - Digital Multimeter KS-AHM-32-003 (1) or a commercially available digital multimeter - Backprobe Set 07SAZ-001000A (2) 1. Connect the backprobe adapters (A) to the stacking patch cords (B), and connect the cords to a multimeter (C). 2. Using the wire insulation as a guide for the contoured tip of the backprobe adapter, gently slide the tip into the connector from the wire side until it touches the end of the wire terminal. 3. If you cannot get to the wire side of the connector or the wire side is sealed (A), disconnect the connector and touch the tester probe (B) to terminals (C) from the terminal side. Do not force the probe into the connector. NOTE: Do not puncture the insulation on a wire. Punctures can cause poor or intermittent electrical connections. Page 6156 MCM, connecting the battery to the high voltage circuits. The current flows through the bypass contactor and bypass resistor first, protecting the system from current spikes. PCU (Power Control Unit) The PCU consists of the MDM, the DC-DC converter, and a heat sink that cools these units. These components are integrated into one, compact unit. The fan circulates air over the heat sink, and cools the MDM and the DC-DC converter. MDM (Motor Driver Module) The MDM consists of the MPI module, voltage converter module, capacitor, and the U/V/W phase motor current sensors. The voltage converter acts as a preamplifier for the IGBTs. The IGBTs are used to transfer electrical energy to the motor from the 144 V battery and vice versa. The IGBTs are activated by the MCM based on the amount of assist/regeneration is needed. The voltage converter module monitors voltage and temperature of the MDM, and sends this information to the MCM. DC-DC Converter Instead of using an alternator to maintain the 12 V battery, the electrical system uses a DC-DC converter. The converter converts high voltage direct current into low voltage direct current with little energy loss. The DC-DC converter will illuminate the charging system indicator in the gauge assembly if a problem is detected in the 12 V charging system. The DC-DC converter has a temperature monitoring system that will signal the MCM if its temperature is abnormally high. If needed, the MCM can signal the DC-DC converter to shut down. Specifications Spark Plug: Specifications Gap and Torque Gap and Torque TORQUE 23 Nm (2.3 kgf.m, 17 lbf.ft) GAP STANDARD SERVICE LIMIT (NEW) 1.0 - 1.1 mm (0.039 - 0.043 in.) 1.3 mm (0.05 in) Page 10119 Diodes How to Identify Wiring Color-Coded Insulation Wire Color Service and Repair Steering Column Lock: Service and Repair Steering Lock Replacement 1. Remove the steering column. 2. Center punch each of the two shear bolts, and drill their heads off with a 5 mm (3/16 inch) drill bit. Be careful not to damage the switch body when removing the shear bolts. 3. Remove the shear bolts from the switch body. 4. Install the switch body without the ignition key inserted. 5. Loosely tighten the new shear bolts. 6. Insert the ignition key, and check for proper operation of the steering wheel lock and that the ignition key turns freely. 7. Tighten the shear bolts (A) until the hex heads (B) twist off. Page 572 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Page 2820 FLAMMABLE FLUIDS Gasoline-electric hybrids have the same potential fire and explosion hazards as conventional vehicles. (See model-specific for flammable fluid capacities.) UNDEPLOYED AIRBAGS AND TENSIONERS All Honda hybrids have front airbags and front seat belt tensioners. The Civic and Accord also have side airbags for front-seat occupants, and the Accord is equipped with side curtain airbags as well. These systems all use pyrotechnic devices with a deactivation time up to 3 minutes. Being struck at close range by a deploying front or side airbag, or cutting into an unactivated inflator, can result in moderate to severe injuries. Injuries can also result from contact with a deploying side curtain airbag, or having a seat belt tensioner activate unexpectedly. To reduce the risk of injury during the deactivation period, we recommend the following: Page 9793 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Page 1338 67. VTEC Oil Pressure Switch Page 85 113. Below Left Side of Cargo Area Locations Horn Switch: Locations Horn - Component Location Index Page 9853 - Taillight relay Page 1512 Power Window Switch: Service and Repair Passenger's Window Switch Test/Replacement Passenger's Window Switch Test/Replacement 1. Remove the passenger's door panel. 2. Disconnect the 5P connector (A) from the passenger's power window switch (B). 3. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table. 4. If the continuity is not as specified, remove the two screws and replace the switch. Page 9411 Wire Color Abbreviations Page 6005 Braking Sensor/Switch: Testing and Inspection Brake Switch Signal Circuit Troubleshooting 1. Check the brake lights. Are the brake lights on without pressing the brake pedal? YES - Inspect the brake switch adjustment. NO - Go to step 2. 2. Press the brake pedal. Do the brake lights come on? YES - Go to step 3. NO - Go to step 4. 3. Measure voltage between ECM connector terminals A32 and B20 with the brake pedal pressed. Is there battery voltage? YES - The brake switch signal is OK. NO - Repair open in the wire between the ECM (A32) and the brake switch. 4. Inspect the No.6 (10 A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box. Is the fuse OK? YES - Repair open in the wire between the brake switch and the No.6 (10 A) fuse. Inspect the brake switch. NO - Repair short in the wire between the ECM(A32) and the No.6 (10 A) fuse. Replace the No.6 (10 A) fuse. Page 5919 193. CAS Solenoid Valves A And B (CVT) Page 9269 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Page 5422 Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Testing and Inspection Mode Switch Test 1. Remove the screws securing the mode switch, then remove the switch. 2. Disconnect the connector from the switch. 3. Check the S mode switch for continuity between connector terminals No. 3 and No. 5. There should be continuity while pressing the S mode switch, and no continuity when the switch released. 4. Check the D mode switch for continuity between connector terminals No. 1 and No. 5. There should be continuity while pressing the D mode switch, and no continuity when the switch is released. 5. If either switch is faulty, replace it. 6. If the switch is OK, but switch failure occurred, check and repair the wire harness on the mode switch circuit. Page 5063 Throttle Body Disassembly/Reassembly Page 1748 Low ambient light conditions (a dark work area) will aid in locating the leak. NOTE: Not all UV lamps work well with all types of fluorescent dye. Use only the lamp provided in the kit to inspect for leaks. (c) Inspect the entire system. Be sure to check these locations: ^ damaged and corroded areas ^ fittings ^ hose-to-line couplings ^ refrigerant controls ^ service ports ^ brazed or welded areas ^ areas near attachment points (d) Check for evaporator leaks by illuminating the evaporator drain tube area with the UV lamp and glasses. (e) After repairing a leak, remove any fluorescent residue using the GLO-AWAY dye cleaner from the kit and hot water (follow the instructions on the bottle). Disclaimer Page 4720 6. Check the contact area (A) of the pipe (B) for dirt and damage. - If the surface is dirty, clean it. - If the surface is rusty or damaged, replace the fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel feed pipe or fuel return pipe. 7. To prevent damage and keep foreign matter out, cover the disconnected connector and pipe end with plastic bags (A). NOTE: The retainer cannot be reused once it has been removed from the pipe. Replace the retainer when replacing the fuel tank. - replacing the fuel pump. - replacing the fuel filter. - replacing the fuel feed pipe. - replacing the fuel return pipe. - it has been removed from the pipe. - it is damaged. Fuel Line/Quick-Connect Fittings Installation 1. Check the contact area (A) of the pipe (B) for dirt and damage, and clean if necessary. Page 1321 Oxygen Sensor: Service and Repair Secondary HO2S Replacement Secondary HO2S Replacement NOTE: When Secondary HO2S is replaced, Third HO2S must be replaced at the same time. ('02-03 M/T model only) 1. Disconnect the secondary HO2S 4P connector (A), and remove the secondary HO2S (B). 2. Install the secondary HO2S in the reverse order of removal. Page 3981 Information Bus: Diagnostic Aids Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Page 6316 EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Description and Operation Clutch Switch: Description and Operation Clutch pedal position Switch The clutch pedal position switch signals the ECM when the clutch pedal is pressed. Locations Brake Booster Vacuum Sensor: Locations PGM-FI System - Component Location Index Page 4752 In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locater) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: - Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. Page 10153 29. Left Front Side of Engine Compartment Page 4842 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. Page 443 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Locations Throttle Position Sensor: Locations PGM-FI System - Component Location Index Page 4762 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Page 7196 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. Page 6834 125. EPS Torque Sensor Locations Page 152 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. Page 5059 Throttle Body: Description and Operation Throttle Body The throttle body is a single-barrel down draft type. The lower portion of the throttle valve is heated by engine coolant from the cylinder head. Page 5305 3. Connect the appropriate fittings to the ATF cooler inlet and outlet lines. Connect the red hose to the cooler outlet line (the line going to the external filter). Connect the blue hose to the cooler inlet line. 4. Connect a shop air hose to the air purge valve. NOTICE The quick connect fitting has a one-way check valve to keep ATF from entering your shop's air system. Do not remove or replace the fitting. Attach the coupler provided with the cooler cleaner to your shop air line if your coupler is not compatible. 5. Flip the MOTOR toggle switch to ON, and let the pump run for 5 minutes. While the pump is running, open and close the air purge valve periodically to cause agitation and improve the cleaning process. 6. Flip the MOTOR toggle switch to OFF with the air purge valve open. Leave the air purge valve open for at least 15 seconds to purge the lines of residual ATF. 7. Disconnect the red and blue hoses from the ATF cooler, then connect the red hose to the cooler inlet line. 8. Connect the blue hose to the cooler outlet line. 9. Flip the MOTOR toggle switch to ON, and let the pump run for 5 minutes. While the pump is running, open and close the air purge valve periodically. 10. Flip the MOTOR toggle switch to OFF with the air purge valve open. Leave the air purge valve open for at least 15 seconds to purge the lines of residual ATF. 11. Disconnect the red and blue hoses from the ATF cooler lines. Connect the red and blue hoses to each other. 12. Disconnect the shop air from the air purge valve. Disconnect and stow the coupler if used. 13. Disconnect and stow the fittings from the ATF cooler inlet and outlet lines. 14. Unplug the cooler cleaner from the 110 V outlet. TOOL MAINTENANCE Follow these instructions to keep the ATF cooler cleaner working properly: *^ Replace the two magnetic nonbypass spin-on filters every 20 hours, based on hour meter reading. For more information on filter replacement, see the January 2008 Honda ServiceNews article, Hour Meter Tells You When to Replace ATF Cooler Cleaner Filters.* ^ Fill the tank so the ATF is 4.5 inches from the top of the filler hole; do not overfill. NOTE: If the fluid level is low, the red indicator above the HEAT toggle switch comes on and the tank heater will not work. ^ Replace the ATF in the tank when it looks dark or dirty. Page 2559 Temperature Gauge: Description and Operation Engine Coolant Temperature Gauge The engine coolant temperature gauge (part of the LCD Display) is controlled by the CPU in the gauge assembly. The ECT sensor sends a coolant temperature signal to the ECM through the RED/WHT wire (cavity C26). The ECM then sends a coolant temperature signal to the CPU in the gauge assembly through the LT GRN/RED wire (cavity A4). The CPU controls the LCD display to turn on the correct number of segments to indicate the coolant temperature. Refer to the Gauges System for specific tests or troubleshooting procedures. Page 4707 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. Page 6242 In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locater) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: - Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. Page 9797 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. Page 4226 DISCLAIMER Page 8912 First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 2013 Diodes How to Identify Wiring Color-Coded Insulation Wire Color Page 3327 Fuel Supply System - Component Location Index Part 2 Page 77 180. Unlock Relay (Honda Accessory) General Precautions Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Service Precautions General Precautions General Precautions Please read the following precautions carefully before performing the airbag system service. Observe the instructions described or the airbags could accidentally deploy and cause damage or injuries. Except when performing electrical inspections, always turn the ignition switch OFF and disconnect the negative cable from the battery, and wait at least three minutes before beginning work. NOTE: The contents in the memory is not erased even if the ignition switch is turned OFF or the battery cables are disconnected from the battery. Use the replacement parts which are manufactured to the same standards as the original parts and quality. Do not install used SRS parts from another vehicle. Use only new parts when making SRS repairs. Carefully inspect any SRS part before you install it. Do not install any part that shows signs of being dropped or improperly handled, such as dents, cracks or deformation. Before removing any of the SRS parts (including the disconnection of the connectors), always disconnect the SRS connector. Use only a digital multimeter to check the system. If it is not a Honda multimeter, make sure its output is 10 mA (0.01 A) or less when switched to the lowest value in the ohmmeter range. A tester with a higher output could cause accidental deployment and possible injury. Do not put objects on the front passenger's airbag. The original radio has a coded theft protection circuit. Be sure to get the customer's radio code before disconnecting the battery cable. Page 9913 22. Back-up Light Switch (M/T) Page 9556 Dome Lamp: Diagnostic Aids Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Page 1857 Splices Components Ground - "G" Page 1129 Lights-on,key-in,and Seat Belt Reminders Image 73-1 Page 8663 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Page 3284 Terminals - "T" Shielding Switches Fuses Diagrams Testing and Inspection Mini ISO Relay: Testing and Inspection Normally-Open Type A Fuel Cut/PGM-FI Main - Relay 1. Turn the battery module switch OFF, and measure the voltage. 2. Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No.3 and No.4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals when power is disconnected. Normally-Open Type B EPS Motor Relay 1. Turn the battery module switch OFF, and measure the voltage. 2. Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No.1 and No.3 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No.2 and No.4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No.1 and No.3 terminals when power is disconnected. Page 6186 9. Measure voltage between ECM connector terminals B16 and B20. Is there battery voltage? YES - Replace the neutral position switch. NO - Go to step 10. 10. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 11. Disconnect ECM connector B (25P). 12. Check for continuity between ECM connector terminal B16 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Repair short in the wire between the ECM (B16) and the neutral position switch. NO - Update the ECM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM, replace the original ECM. 13. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 14. Disconnect the neutral position switch 2P connector. 15. Check for continuity between neutral position switch 2P connector terminals No.1 and No.2 with the transmission in 1st gear. Is there continuity? YES - Go to step 15. Page 6154 IMA Motor The motor is a synchronous AC type that serves three functions: it converts kinetic energy into electrical energy, it assists the engine during acceleration, and it starts the engine. The motor is located between the engine and the transmission. It consists of a three-phase coil stator and a permanent magnet rotor that is directly connected to the engine crankshaft. Three commutation sensors are mounted inside the housing to detect the position of the rotor. MCM (Motor Control Module) The MCM controls the amount of assist that the motor produces and the amount of regenerative power that the motor absorbs based on input from the ECM and the BCM. The MCM convents 144 V DC power into three-phase AC power required during assist, and converts AC power into DC power during regeneration. The MCM also communicates with the PGM tester via the 16P data link connector for better serviceability. If any sensors or circuits in the IMA system are abnormal, the MCM turns on the IMA system indicator to warn the driver that there is a problem. Battery Module A light-weight and compact Ni-MH (nickel-metal hydride) battery is used to supply energy to the IMA system. The battery is made up of 20 modules that are connected in series. Within each module are six 1.2 V cells. Total battery voltage is 144 V and maximum capacity is 6.5 Ah. Campaign - Premature IMA Battery Module Failures Technical Service Bulletin # 06-026 Date: 080205 Campaign - Premature IMA Battery Module Failures 06-026 February 5, 2008 Applies To: 2000-04 Insight - See VEHICLES AFFECTED Product Update: Premature IMA Battery Module Failure (Supersedes 06-026, dated May 13, 2006) Updated information is shown with black bars in the images and asterisks in the text. BACKGROUND *NOTE: Because of a class action settlement, the warranty coverage for the IMA battery on 2002-04 Insights purchased or leased between April 13, 2002, and November 7, 2006, is now 10 years or 157,500 miles, whichever occurs first. For more information, refer to Service Bulletin 06-085, Warranty Extension: Vehicle Warranty Mileage.* American Honda is announcing a product update to replace certain IMA components to help prevent IMA battery deterioration. This product update applies only in states where there is an abnormally high replacement rate for IMA batteries. The IMA battery control module(s) allows the battery to overcharge. Occasional overcharging is a desirable function, but too many frequently repeated cycles of overcharge can damage the IMA battery. This damage is the result of excessive current and heat build up. Unique local topographical and ambient conditions in affected states, combined with a driving cycle that typically keeps the IMA battery fully charged, create this potential problem. VEHICLES AFFECTED This product update affects all 2000-04 Insights registered in the states of Arizona, California, Colorado, Florida, Hawaii, Nevada, and Texas, the shaded states on this map) as shown. To verify vehicle eligibility, check for at least one of these items: ^ The customer has a notification letter. ^ The vehicle is shown as eligible on a VIN status inquiry. In addition to these verification items, check for a punch mark above the 14th character of the engine compartment VIN. A punch mark in that location means the product update has already been completed. CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION Owners of affected vehicles within the seven states have received a notification of this product update. An example of the notification is shown in this service bulletin. Page 101 - Taillight relay Page 3142 DTC P1486 thru P1585 Page 1123 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. Page 8358 Wire Color Abbreviations Page 9741 Map Light: Diagnostic Aids Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Page 8312 Page 8962 Terminals - "T" Shielding Switches Fuses Specifications Spark Plug: Specifications Gap and Torque Gap and Torque TORQUE 23 Nm (2.3 kgf.m, 17 lbf.ft) GAP STANDARD SERVICE LIMIT (NEW) 1.0 - 1.1 mm (0.039 - 0.043 in.) 1.3 mm (0.05 in) Page 5511 8. Remove the driveshaft outboard joint from the front wheel hub using a plastic hammer. 9. Remove the cotter pin (A) from the lower arm ball joint castle nut (B), and remove the nut. 10. Separate the ball joint from the knuckle (C) with the special tool. Refer to Steering and Suspension. 11. Remove the inboard boot heat cover (A). Page 9528 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Page 8776 Brake Warning Indicator: Diagnostic Aids Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Locations Gauges - Component Location Index Page 5303 Transmission Cooler: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Cooler Flushing Equipment Information 89-022 May 16, 2008 Applies To: Vehicles With an In-Radiator ATF Cooler - ALL ATF Cooler Cleaner (Supersedes 89-022, dated June 18, 2004, to update the information marked by asterisks) Before installing an overhauled or remanufactured A/T, you must thoroughly clean the ATF cooler to prevent system contamination. Failure to do so could cause a repeat A/T failure. The ATF Cooler Cleaner (PIN GTHTTCF6H) is a portable, electrically operated special tool that cleans the ATF cooler with high- pressure, heated ATF. This cleaning action melts down waxy varnish residue left by burnt ATF and purges metal particles, clutch material, and other contaminants. The ATF Cooler Cleaner has these features: ^ Quick-connect fittings and color-coded hoses for easy hookup. ^ Uses about 9.5 gallons of Honda ATF-Z1, which gets filtered and recirculated. ^ Heats ATF to a temperature of 1400 to 150°F and then pumps it through the ATF cooler at high pressure (100 psi) using a pulsating action and air purging. Switching the hoses cleans the ATF cooler in the reverse direction. ^ Two magnetic nonbypass spin-on filters to trap purged contaminants. ^ Built-in tool tray. This service bulletin gives you information for ordering and servicing this special tool, and guides you through the entire ATF cooler cleaning process. *REQUIRED MATERIALS Honda ATF-Z1: P/N 08200-9001 Magnetic Nonbypass Spin-On Filter: T/N GTHNBP12 (12-pack) T/N GTHNBP2 (6-pack) T/N GTHGNBP22 (2-pack) ORDERING INFORMATION Additional ATF cooler cleaners or magnetic nonbypass spin-on filters can be ordered through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program. To order on the iN, click on SERVICE, then Service Bay, then Tool and Equipment Program. From the Tool and Equipment Program menu, click on the Online Catalog tab, and then search for the desired filter pack by part number.* Page 568 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. Diagram Information and Instructions Fuel Pump Relay: Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System Terminal Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown below is #6. Page 1855 Wires Locations 83. Under Driver's Seat Locations Air Door Actuator / Motor: Locations Heating - Component Location Index Page 7131 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 7139 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. Page 1190 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: Page 3292 In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locater) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: - Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. Page 9610 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. Page 1751 Refrigerant: Fluid Type Specifications Refrigerant Type HFC-134a (R-134a) Page 8641 Wire Color Abbreviations Page 2658 Battery Module: Description and Operation Battery Module A light-weight and compact Ni-MH (nickel-metal hydride) battery is used to supply energy to the IMA system. The battery is made up of 20 modules that are connected in series. Within each module are six 1.2 V cells. Total battery voltage is 144 V and maximum capacity is 6.5 Ah. The battery module has four built-in thermistor-type temperature sensors, and a PTC (positive temperature coefficient) -type temperature sensor for each cell. BCM (Battery Condition Monitor) Module The BCM module determines the battery state of charge, and it controls the battery fan speed by looking at battery voltage, battery input/output current, and battery temperature. The BCM module then sends this information to the MCM to indicate the battery's state of charge and to keep the battery within predetermined limits. Because battery charging and discharging generates heat in the battery module, the BCM module also controls a fan that keeps the battery module from overheating. The fan operates in one of three modes: off, low, or high. If the BCM module detects an abnormality, it sends a signal to the MCM, which then turns on the IMA system indicator on the gauge assembly. Junction board The junction board, mounted on the battery module, houses high voltage components of the IMA system. The battery module switch, contacts, fuses, and the current sensors are all located on the junction board. Battery Module Switch The battery module switch is connected in series to the battery module fuse. Always turn the battery module switch to the OFF position whenever service or checks are required on or around the high voltage circuits. Follow these steps exactly: Page 8077 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: - Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest OHMS" range. Page 9273 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. Page 9463 Wire Color Coding Distinct Of Circuit By Wire Base Color All wires have color-coded insulation. Wires belonging to a system's main harness will have a single color. Wires belonging to a system's sub-circuits will have a colored stripe. Striped wires use the codes found in the chart to show wire size and colors. Abbreviations are used to indicate wire color within a circuit diagram. Wire Color Abbreviations The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics: WHT................................... White YEL................................... Yellow BLK................................... Black BLU................................... Blue GRN................................... Green RED................................... Red ORN................................... Orange PNK................................... Pink BRN................................... Brown GRY................................... Gray PUR................................... Purple LT BLU................................... Light Blue LT GRN................................... Light Green The wire insulation has one color or one color with another color stripe. The second color is the stripe. How to Identify Connector Terminals How to Identify Connector Terminals Page 4705 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. Page 4169 7. Remove the rear clips from the middle bulkhead carpet. 8. Remove the under-cover (two bolts, two clips, and three screw clips). 9. Remove the intelligent power unit (I PU) lid (six Torx bolts and 17 hex bolts). 10. Measure the voltage between the junction board terminals. There should be 10 V or less. ^ If you have more than 10 V, there's a problem in the MA system. Look for and troubleshoot any DTCs before continuing. ^ If you have 10 V or less, continue to step 11. A/T - Vehicle Speed Sensor Installation Precautions Transmission Speed Sensor: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Vehicle Speed Sensor Installation Precautions Install VSS Properly to Avoid Reman A/T Damage We can't emphasize enough how important it is to follow, to the letter, the installation instructions that come with a reman A/T. These instructions help ensure that you avoid damaging the A/T and score a successful repair. This is particularly true when it comes to installing the vehicle speed sensor (VSS). Step 6 of the instructions tells you to make sure its gear is fully engaged and the VSS is fully seated before you tighten the retaining bolt. If you don't install the VSS properly, the speed sensor gear will get stripped and the A/T will be seriously damaged. So don't take risks with your customer's vehicle. Always follow these instructions to the letter. You can rest assured you're doing the job right. Locations 47. Steering Wheel (Airbag Removed) Service and Repair Vehicle Lifting: Service and Repair Lift and Support Points Frame Hoist Position the hoist lift blocks (A), on safety stands, under the vehicle's front support points (B) and rear support points (C). 1. Raise the hoist a few inches (centimeters), and rock the vehicle gently to be sure it is firmly supported. 2. Raise the hoist to full height, and inspect the lift points for solid contact with the lift blocks. If you are going to remove heavy components such as suspension or the fuel tank from the rear of the vehicle, first support the front of the vehicle with a tall safety stand. When substantial weight is removed from the rear of the vehicle, the center of gravity can change and cause the vehicle to tip forward on the hoist. Safety Stands To support the vehicle on safety stands, use the same support points (B and C) as for a frame hoist. Always use safety stands when working on or under any vehicle that is supported only by a jack. Floor Jack 1. Set the parking brake. 2. Place a rubber pad between the lift platform and the center support point. NOTE: The platform must contact the center support point only; it must not come in contact with any other part of the vehicle. 3. Position the floor jack under the left or right center support point (A), center the jack lift platform (B) on the jacking point, and jack up the vehicle high enough to fit the safety stands under it. 4. Position the safety stands under the support points and adjust them so the vehicle will be level. Page 3064 P/N 17012-S01-A00 H/C 5999016 ECM/PCM: P/N 37820-P2P-A12 H/C 6104426 Defect Code: 072 Contention Code: C01 Skill Level: Repair Technician Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Connect the PGM Tester to the 16P data link connector. 2. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). Turn on the PGM Tester. 3. From the PROGRAM MENU screen, select HONDA SYSTEMS. 4. From the SYSTEM SELECT screen, select 1: PGM-FI. 5. From the TEST MODE MENU screen, select 6: INSPECTION. 6. From the INSPECTION MENU screen, select 2: EVAP TEST. 7. From the EVAP TEST MENU, select 1: SINGLE SOLENOIDS. 8. From the SINGLE SOLENOIDS MENU, activate the EVAP bypass solenoid valve. Listen for a click and feel for a light tap from the solenoid valve as you activate it. ^ If you can hear the solenoid valve click or feel it tap when activated, disregard this service bulletin, and look for other possible causes. ^ If you cannot hear the solenoid valve click or feel it tap when activated, go to step 9. 9. Replace the EVAP bypass solenoid valve (see section 11 of the appropriate service manual). 10. Test the new solenoid valve with the PGM Tester. ^ If you can hear the solenoid valve click or feel it tap when activated, go to step 15 or 16 as appropriate. ^ If you cannot hear the solenoid valve click or feel it tap when activated, go to step 11. 11. Check the wire harness and the connectors for damage. ^ If you find any damage, repair it, then go to step 12. ^ If you find no damage in the wire harness or connectors, go to step 13. 12. Test the solenoid valve again with the PGM Tester. ^ If you can hear the solenoid valve click or feel it tap when activated, go to step 15 or 16 as appropriate. ^ If you cannot hear the solenoid valve click or feel it tap when activated, go to step 13. 13. Replace the ECM/PCM (see section 11 of the appropriate service manual). 14. Use the PGM Tester to retest the solenoid valve. ^ If you can hear the solenoid valve click or feel it tap when activated, go to step 15 or 16 as appropriate. Page 6020 Wheel Speed Sensor: Description and Operation Wheel Sensors The wheel sensors are the magnetic contactless type. As the gear purser teeth rotate past the wheel sensor's magnetic coil, AC current is generated. The AC frequency changes in accordance with the wheel speed. The ABS control unit detects the wheel sensor signal frequency and thereby detects the wheel speed. When the wheel speed drops sharply below the vehicle speed, the inlet valve closes and if necessary, the outlet valve opens momentarily to reduce the caliper fluid pressure. The pump motor starts at this time. As the wheel speed is restored, and the outlet valve closes, the inlet valve opens momentarily to increase the caliper fluid pressure. Page 8729 Wire Color Coding Distinct Of Circuit By Wire Base Color All wires have color-coded insulation. Wires belonging to a system's main harness will have a single color. Wires belonging to a system's sub-circuits will have a colored stripe. Striped wires use the codes found in the chart to show wire size and colors. Abbreviations are used to indicate wire color within a circuit diagram. Wire Color Abbreviations The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics: WHT................................... White YEL................................... Yellow BLK................................... Black BLU................................... Blue GRN................................... Green RED................................... Red ORN................................... Orange PNK................................... Pink BRN................................... Brown GRY................................... Gray PUR................................... Purple LT BLU................................... Light Blue LT GRN................................... Light Green The wire insulation has one color or one color with another color stripe. The second color is the stripe. How to Identify Connector Terminals How to Identify Connector Terminals Page 10369 Wiper Switch: Testing and Inspection Wiper/Washer Switch Test/Replacement 1. Remove the steering column covers. 2. Disconnect the 14P connector (B) from the wiper/washer switch (A). 3. Remove the two screws, then pull out the switch. 4. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table. If the continuity is not as specified, replace the switch. Page 1262 29. CKP Sensor Page 9031 Splices Components Ground - "G" Page 8790 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. Component Locations Oxygen Sensor: Component Locations PGM-FI System - Component Location Index Part 1 Page 6382 Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution diagram set to get a more detailed picture of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Page 2667 Battery Module: Service and Repair Battery Module Removal/Installation Battery Module Removal/Installation Special Tools Required Battery Module Lift (Available for loan from AHM Special Tools Department) T/N 07YAK-001010A IMA system components are located in this area. The IMA system is a high-voltage system. You must be familiar with the IMA system before working on or around it. Make sure you have read the Service Precautions before performing repairs or service. 1. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 2. Remove the cargo floor mat. 3. Remove the battery module switch cover (A) from the IPU lid, and remove the locking cover (B). 4. Turn the battery module switch (A) OFF, then install the locking cover (B). 5. Wait for at least five minutes to allow the PDU capacitors (condensers) to discharge. 6. Remove the right side trunk shelf support (A). Page 10335 8. Reinstall the wiper motor connector retaining clip in the motor mounting bracket. 9. Route the sub-harness around the motor mounting bracket, then connect it to the hatch harness. 10. Attach the sub-harness ground lead to the motor mounting bracket. 11. Cover the sub-harness with the self-adhesive foam padding from the kit. 12. Remove the grounding clip from the wiper motor bracket mount. Torque the bolt to 9.8 Nm (7.2 lb-ft). 13. Center-punch a completion mark above the fourth character (Z) of the engine compartment VIN. Page 2297 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 10096 Turn Signal Flasher: Testing and Inspection Turn Signal/Hazard Relay Input Test 1. Remove the turn signal/hazard relay (A) from the under-dash fuse/relay box (B). 2. Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are all making good contact. - If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system. - If the terminals look OK, make the following input tests at the fuse/relay box socket. If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system. - If all the input tests prove OK, the turn signal/hazard relay must be faulty; replace it. Drivetrain - Revised CV Joint Boot Band/Installation Constant Velocity Joint Boot: Technical Service Bulletins Drivetrain - Revised CV Joint Boot Band/Installation 98-018 July 22, 2003 Applies To: ALL Models Driveshaft Boot Band Tool (Supersedes 98-018, Boot Band Tool, dated April 14, 1998) Updated information is shown by asterisks. The replacement boot bands for the driveshaft CV joint boots have changed. The replacement bands are a double loop type that require a special tool for proper installation. * TOOL INFORMATION Boot Band Tool: T/N KD-3191 This tool is already at your dealership. To order additional tools, call the Honda Tool and Equipment Program at 1-888-424-6857. Phone lines are open Monday through Friday from 7:30 a.m. to 7:00 p.m. CT.* REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Remove the old boot band(s). Take care not to damage the boot. 2. Remove and inspect the boot. Replace the boot if it is worn or damaged. 3. Install the boot, and fill it with the specified amount and type of grease. Refer to section 16 of the appropriate service manual for the grease amount and type. 4. Adjust the driveshaft to the proper length. Refer to section 16 of the appropriate service manual. 5. Install the replacement boot band onto the large end of the boot with the end of the band facing toward the front of the vehicle. 6. Take up the slack in the boot band by hand, and hold the boot band in place. Page 3732 DISCLAIMER Service and Repair Valve Spring: Service and Repair For further information regarding this component and the system it is a part of, please refer to Cylinder Head Assembly; Service and Repair. Page 4168 ECU Module Kit: P/N 06060-PHM-305, H/C 6912901 WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION Operation Number: 118121 Flat Rate Time: 0.8 hour Failed Part: P/N 1K100-PHM-010 H/C 6377170 Defect Code: 5AG Contention Code: L43 Template ID: 01-102A Skill Level: Repair Technician Disclaimer Repair Procedure 1. Write down the radio station presets. 2. Make sure the ignition switch is off, then disconnect the negative cable from the under-hood 12 V battery. 3. Remove the cargo floor mat and the cargo box (see page 20-43 of the 2000 Insight Service Manual). 4. Remove the battery module switch cover, then remove the locking cover from the switch. 5. Turn off the battery module switch. Reinstall the locking cover on the switch, and remove the 5 mm bolt on the side of the switch. 6. Wait at least 5 minutes for the capacitors in the system to discharge. Page 5520 4. Make a mark (A) on the rollers (B) and spider (C) to identify the locations of the rollers on the spider, then remove the rollers. 5. Remove the circlip (D). 6. Mark the spider (C) and driveshaft (E) to identify the position of the spider on the shaft. 7. Remove the spider (C). 8. Wrap the splines on the driveshaft (A) with vinyl tape (B) to prevent damage to the boot and dynamic damper (for right driveshaft). 9. Remove the inboard boot (C) and dynamic damper (D). Take care not to damage the boot and dynamic damper. 10. Remove the vinyl tape. Outboard Joint Side: 1. Pry up the three tabs (A) with a screwdriver, then remove the boot bands (B). Take care not to damage the boot. Page 10023 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Page 9947 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: - Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest OHMS" range. Locations Page 2722 7. Remove the rear clips from the middle bulkhead carpet. 8. Remove the under-cover (two bolts, two clips, and three screw clips). 9. Remove the intelligent power unit (I PU) lid (six Torx bolts and 17 hex bolts). 10. Measure the voltage between the junction board terminals. There should be 10 V or less. ^ If you have more than 10 V, there's a problem in the MA system. Look for and troubleshoot any DTCs before continuing. ^ If you have 10 V or less, continue to step 11. Page 4816 - Do not fold over the lower part of the suction filter (C). - When installing the fuel gauge sending unit (A), make sure the connection is secure and the connector is firmly locked into place. Be careful not to bend or twist it excessively. Page 8582 5. Reconnect the 18P connector to the keyless door lock control unit, and make these input tests at the connector. - If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system. - If all the input tests prove OK, the control unit must be faulty; replace the keyless door lock control unit. Page 9833 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 8999 Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Service Precautions Precautions For Electrical Inspections Precautions For Electrical Inspections When using electrical test equipment, insert the probe of the tester into the wire side of the connector. Do not insert the probe of the tester into the terminal side of the connector, and do not tamper with the connector. Use a U-shaped probe. Do not insert the probe forcibly. Use specified service connectors in troubleshooting. Using improper tools could cause an error in inspection due to poor metal-to-metal contact. Page 2313 Variable Valve Timing Pressure Switch: Locations 6. Front of Engine Locations Parking Brake Warning Switch: Locations Gauges - Component Location Index Page 10076 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. Page 9563 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 1437 9. Measure voltage between ECM connector terminals B16 and B20. Is there battery voltage? YES - Replace the neutral position switch. NO - Go to step 10. 10. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 11. Disconnect ECM connector B (25P). 12. Check for continuity between ECM connector terminal B16 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Repair short in the wire between the ECM (B16) and the neutral position switch. NO - Update the ECM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM, replace the original ECM. 13. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 14. Disconnect the neutral position switch 2P connector. 15. Check for continuity between neutral position switch 2P connector terminals No.1 and No.2 with the transmission in 1st gear. Is there continuity? YES - Go to step 15. Page 9237 Fuel Gauge Sender: Service and Repair Fuel Gauge Sending Unit Test/Replacement Fuel Gauge Sending Unit Test/Replacement Special Tools Required Adjustable ring wrench 07XAA-001010A NOTE: This article has been updated as per TSB SN030415. NOTE: For the fuel gauge system circuit diagram, refer to the Gauges Circuit Diagram. Test 1. Check the No.6 fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box before testing. 2. Remove the middle floor panel. 3. Remove the access panel from the floor. 4. Turn the ignition switch OFF, then disconnect the fuel pump 5P connector. 5. Measure voltage between the fuel pump 5P connector terminals No.1 and No.2 with the ignition switch ON (II). There should be Battery Voltage. - If the voltage is as specified, go to step 6. - If the voltage is not as specified, check for: an open in the YEL/BLK or BLK wire. - poor ground (G502). 6. Turn the ignition switch OFF. Remove the No.18 (7.5 A) fuse from the under-dash fuse/relay box for at least 10 seconds, then reinstall it. 7. Install a 2 Ohms resistor between the fuel pump 5P connector terminals No.1 and No.2, then turn the ignition switch ON (II). 8. Check that the pointer of the fuel gauge starts moving toward the "F" mark. - If the pointer of the fuel gauge does not move at all, replace the gauge. - If the gauge is OK, inspect the fuel gauge sending unit. NOTE: Turn the ignition switch OFF before the pointer reaches "F" on the gauge dial. Failure to do so may damage the fuel gauge. - The fuel gauge is a bobbin (cross-coil) type, hence the fuel level is continuously indicated even when the ignition switch is OFF, and the pointer moves more slowly than that of a bimetal type. Replacement 1. Remove the fuel tank. 2. Disconnect the quick-connect fittings from the fuel pump. Page 1696 Brake Fluid: Service Precautions SAFETY PRECAUTIONS WARNING: Brake fluid may be irritating to the skin or eyes. In case of contact, take the following actions: * Eye Contact - rinse eyes thoroughly with water. * Skin Contact - wash skin with soap and water. Page 3748 9. Connect the PGM Tester to the data link connector (DLC). 10. Use the PGM Tester to program the customer's immobilizer key codes into the ECM. Verity that all the keys will start the engine. 11. Center-punch a completion mark above the first character (J) of the engine compartment VIN. Disclaimer Page 3071 DTC P0A94 thru P0157 Page 119 Blower Motor Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relay Test Normally-open type B: Blower Motor Relay, Type 1: Blower Motor Relay, Type 2: Blower Motor High Relay 1. Turn the battery module switch OFF, and measure the voltage. 2. Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 3 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 2 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 3 terminals when power is disconnected. Page 5421 199. Transmission Range Switch (CVT) Page 6372 Wire Color Abbreviations Page 4753 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: - Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest OHMS" range. Page 7122 Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution diagram set to get a more detailed picture of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Page 4812 Fuel Gauge Sender: Locations Fuel Supply System - Component Location Index Page 4280 ECM/PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector B (25P) Part 2 Page 4065 43. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 44. Disconnect ECM connector C (31P). 45. Check for continuity between ECM connector terminal C19 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Repair short in the wire between the ECM (C19) and the MAP sensor. NO - Update the ECM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM, replace the original ECM. 46. Measure voltage between body ground and ECM connector terminal C28. Is there about 5 V? YES - Go to step 53. (CVT model) - Update the ECM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM, replace the original ECM. (M/T model) NO - Go to step 47. 47. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 48. Disconnect the 3P connector from each of these sensors, one at a time, and measure voltage between body ground and ECM connector terminal C28 with the ignition switch ON (II). Exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) valve position sensor - Brake booster pressure sensor - Fuel tank pressure (FTP) sensor - Throttle position (TP) sensor Is there about 5 V? Page 3768 DTC P1486 thru P1585 Page 6871 125. EPS Torque Sensor Page 6587 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: Page 8648 Cavity Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity / terminal shown is # 6. Circuit Schematics Page 3191 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Page 2095 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. Page 1766 Refrigerant Oil: Fluid Type Specifications A/C Oil Specifications A/C Oil Specifications Lubricant Type Sanden SP-10 or equivalent Page 3121 DTC P0750 thru P0977 Locations Relay And Control Unit Locations - Dashboard Page 2834 ^ Clean the mating surfaces of the housing assembly and block, and be sure to apply the liquid gasket, P/N 08718-0009, to the mating surfaces just before installation. 10. Remove the motor commutation sensor A (A), sensor B (B) and sensor C (C). 11. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal. NOTE: ^ Install the commutation sensors properly. Do not set the sensor A, B and C in the wrong position. ^ Connect the motor power cable with the U phase, V phase, and W phase set in the correct positions. ^ Clean the surfaces where the liquid gasket, P/N 08718-0009, is applied. ^ Set the rotor on the special tool, and install the rotor with the end of the special tool extended. ^ Turn the handle of the special tool slowly when inserting the rotor into the stator. The rotor is drawn into the stator by magnetic force. Page 7143 Air Door Actuator / Motor: Connector Views 105. Recirculation Control Motor 109. Air Mix Control Motor 126. Mode Control Motor Page 180 Daytime Running Lamp Control Unit: Testing and Inspection Daytime Running Lights Control Unit Input Test - Canada 1. Remove the left door sill trim, and pull away the carpet from left front side of floor. 2. Disconnect the 14P connector (A) from the daytime running lights control unit (B). 3. Inspect all connector and socket terminals to be sure they are all making good contact. - If the terminals are bent, loose, or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system. - If the terminals look OK, go to step 4. Page 3298 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 2295 First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 10171 111. Rear Window Defogger, Fuel Cut, Radiator Fan Main (Climate Control) And Intermittent Wiper Relays Page 4921 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. Page 6893 Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Service and Repair Connector Disconnection / Connection Disconnecting System Connectors Before removing the airbag or SRS related devices (the SRS unit, the cable reel and the seat belt tensioner connector), disconnecting connectors from SRS related devices, or removing the dashboard or the steering column, disconnect the airbag connectors and seat belt tensioner connectors to prevent accidental deployment. Turn the ignition switch OFF, disconnect the negative cable from the battery, and wait at least 3 minutes before beginning the following procedures. - Before disconnecting the SRS unit connector A (18P) (A) from the SRS unit, disconnect both airbag 2P connectors (C, D) and both seat belt tensioner 2P connectors (E, F). - Before disconnecting the cable reel 2P connector (B), disconnect the driver's airbag 2P connector (C). 1. Disconnect the battery negative cable, and wait at least three minutes. Driver's Airbag 2. Remove the access panel from the steering wheel, then disconnect the driver's airbag 2P connector (A) from the cable reel. Passenger's Airbag Component Locations Hatch Opener - Component Location Index Page 2644 Page 5361 5. Torque the mounting bolts in a crisscross pattern. Tighten the bolts in several steps to prevent warping the diaphragm spring. Pressure Plate Mounting Bolt Torque: 25 Nm (2.6 kgf-m, 19 lbf-ft) 6. Remove the special tools. 7. Make sure the diaphragm spring fingers are all the same height. Component Locations Openers - Component Location Index Page 9723 Number. See: Diagrams/Connector Views/Connector Views By View Number Service and Repair Hood Latch Release Cable: Service and Repair Hood Opener Cable Replacement NOTE: - Put on gloves to protect your hands. - Take care not to scratch the body and related parts. - Take care not to kink the cable. 1. Remove the front inner fender. 2. If equipped, remove the clip (A), then remove the condenser upper seal (B). Disconnect the hood opener cable (C) from the hood latch (D), and remove the bolts (E), then remove the hood release handle (F) from the body. 3. Using a clip remover, detach the clips (G) and remove the grommet (H) from the body, then remove the hood opener cable. Take care not to kink the cable. 4. Install the hood opener cable in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - Replace any damaged clips. - Route the cable through the holes (I) in the body. Page 7692 Air Bag Control Module: Service and Repair SRS Unit Replacement Removal 1. Disconnect the battery negative cable, and wait at least 3 minutes before beginning work. 2. Disconnect the airbag connectors and seat belt tensioner connectors. 3. Remove the front console. 4. Remove the cover (A), then disconnect the floor wire harness 18P (B) and 8P (C) connectors from the SRS unit (D). 5. Remove the three Torx bolts (A) from the SRS unit (B), then pull out the SRS unit. Installation 1. Install the new SRS unit (A) with Torx bolts (B), then connect the floor wire harness 18P (C) and 8P (D) connectors to the SRS unit; push them into position until they click. NOTE: When tightening the Torx bolts to the specified torque after replacement, be careful to turn them in so that their heads rest squarely on the brackets. 2. Reinstall the front console. 3. Reconnect the airbag connectors and seat belt tensioner connectors. 4. Reconnect the battery negative cable. Page 7322 Heating/Cooling Unit View Page 508 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 6628 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: - Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest OHMS" range. Condenser Fan High Speed Circuit Troubleshooting Condenser Fan: Testing and Inspection Condenser Fan High Speed Circuit Troubleshooting Condenser Fan High Speed Circuit Troubleshooting 1. Check the No. 16 (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box. Is the fuse OK? YES - Go to step 2. NO - Replace the fuse, and recheck. 2. Remove the fan control relay from the multi-relay box, and test it. Is the relay OK? YES - Go to step 3. NO - Replace the fan control relay. 3. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 4. Measure the voltage between the No. 5 terminal of the fan control relay 5P socket and body ground. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 5. NO - Repair open in the wire between the No. 16 fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box and the fan control relay. 5. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 6. Check for continuity between the No. 2 terminal of the fan control relay 5P socket and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Repair open in the wire between the fan control relay and the A/C pressure switch. NO - Check for an open in the wire between the fan control relay and body ground. If the wire is OK, check for poor ground at G301. Page 3392 Camshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation Camshaft Position (CMP) A and B (Top Dead Center (TDC) 1 and 2), and Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensors The CMPA (TDC 1) and CMPB (TDC 2) sensors detect the position of the No.1 cylinder as a reference for sequential fuel injection to each cylinder. The CKP sensor detects engine speed and determines ignition timing and timing for fuel injection of each cylinder. Testing and Inspection Mini ISO Relay: Testing and Inspection Normally-Open Type A Fuel Cut/PGM-FI Main - Relay 1. Turn the battery module switch OFF, and measure the voltage. 2. Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No.3 and No.4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals when power is disconnected. Normally-Open Type B EPS Motor Relay 1. Turn the battery module switch OFF, and measure the voltage. 2. Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No.1 and No.3 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No.2 and No.4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No.1 and No.3 terminals when power is disconnected. Page 7866 Alarm/Immobilizer Control Unit: Connector Views 115. Immobilizer Receiver Unit 181. Security Control Unit (Honda Accessory) Diagram Information and Instructions Trunk Lamp: Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System Terminal Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown below is #6. Page 4698 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 7530 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 9303 65. Test Tachometer Connector Page 9732 Connectors - "C" Page 455 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 9217 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. Page 5846 Brake Rotor/Disc: Service and Repair Knuckle/Hub/Hub Bearing Unit Replacement Special Tools Required Hub assembly driver attachment 07GAF-SD40200 - Ball joint remover, 28 mm 07MAC-SL00200 - Hub disassembly tool 07965-SA70100 - Support base 07965-SD90100 NOTICE: To avoid damage, do not strike aluminum parts with a metal hammer. If necessary, tap gently with a plastic tipped hammer. NOTE: Nuts and bolts with the * mark are special corrosion-resistant Dacro fasteners. Use the same type if replacement is necessary. 1. Raise the front of the vehicle, and make sure it is securely supported. Page 10042 40. Upper Left Kick Panel Area Page 9446 Cargo Lamp: Service and Repair Cargo Area Light Test/Replacement 1. Turn the cargo area light switch OFF. 2. Carefully pry off the lens (A) with a small screw driver. 3. Carefully remove the light housing (B). 4. Disconnect the 2P connector (C) from the light. 5. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table. 6. If the continuity is not as specified, check the bulb. If the bulb is OK, replace the light. 7. If the continuity check is not as specified, replace the cargo area light. Page 6690 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Component Locations Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Component Locations Component Location Index Component Locations 13. Middle of Engine Page 10276 29. Left Front Side of Engine Compartment Page 9257 Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution diagram set to get a more detailed picture of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Hatch Lock Actuator/Latch Switch/Unlock Switch Test Power Door Lock Switch: Testing and Inspection Hatch Lock Actuator/Latch Switch/Unlock Switch Test Hatch Lock Actuator/Latch Switch/Unlock Switch Test 1. Open the hatch and remove the rear trim panel. 2. Disconnect the 6P connector (A) from the hatch lock actuator (B). Actuator Test: 3. Check actuator operation by connecting battery power and grounding according to the table. To prevent damage to the actuator, apply battery voltage only momentarily. Latch Switch Test: 4. Check for continuity between terminal No. 3 and terminal No. 6. - With the hatch open, there should be continuity. - With the hatch closed, there should be no continuity. Unlock Switch Test: 5. Check for continuity between terminal No. 1 and terminal No. 2. - With the hatch unlocked, there should be continuity. - With the hatch locked, there should be no continuity. 6. If the tests don't work as specified, replace the hatch latch assembly. Page 4828 In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locater) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: - Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. Page 8452 This system uses ROM chips that match the transmitter to the security system control unit. When replacing a lost or stolen transmitter, you need to use the three ROM chips (provided with the new transmitter) to match the old transmitter with the new transmitter and the control unit. 1. Remove the rear cover from the old transmitter and the new one. 2. Remove the ROM chip from the old transmitter by sliding its socket holder toward the ROM chip. 3. Insert a new ROM chip into the socket holder, then slide the socket holder toward the socket to lock the chip in place. 4. Repeat step 3 to install a ROM chip into the new transmitter. 5. Reinstall the rear covers on the transmitters. 6. Remove the security system control unit from under the driver's seat. 7. Open the access cover on the control unit, and replace the ROM chip. (Use the same procedure as in steps 2 and 3.) 8. Press the reset button next to the ROM chip. 9. Close the access cover, and reinstall the control unit. If you are replacing a damaged transmitter, don't replace the ROM chips in the transmitters and the control unit; just remove the chip from the old transmitter and install it in the new one. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda using normal parts ordering procedures. If your customer wants to add a third transmitter to the system, you need to order a four ROM chip set directly from Alpine Electronics of America. The Alpine part number for the four ROM chip set is 5319. This ROM chip set does not come with a transmitter. Order the additional transmitter from American Honda. If you have questions about how to order a four ROM chip set, call Alpine's parts department at (800) 421-2284, extension 8885. Batteries for the Transmitter Page 9694 Terminals - "T" Shielding Switches Fuses How To Replace Connector Terminals Multiple Junction Connector: Service and Repair How To Replace Connector Terminals HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. Page 19 All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416 etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector or by a capital letter (A, B, C etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Connector Views that shows the connector terminals wire colors connector cavity numbers and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints shown on diagram [8] . Except for the DLC (data link connector) disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554 for example means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Page 7431 5. Remove the mounting nut from the heater unit. Take care not to damage or bend the fuel lines, the brake lines, etc. 6. Remove the dashboard. 7. With air conditioning remove the evaporator. Without air conditioning remove the heater duct. 8. Remove the mounting bolts in the following sequence, then remove the center bracket (A), knee bolster (B), and the hanger beam (C). Locations Idle Air Control Valve: Locations Idle Control System - Component Location Index 9. Front of Engine Front Wheel Bearing: Service and Repair Front Knuckle/Hub/Hub Bearing Unit Replacement Special Tools Required Hub assembly driver attachment 07GAF-SD40200 - Ball joint remover, 28 mm 07MAC-SL00200 - Hub dis/assembly tool 07965-SA70100 - Support base 07965-SD90100 NOTICE: To avoid damage, do not strike aluminum parts with a metal hammer. If necessary, tap gently with a plastic tipped hammer. NOTE: Nuts and bolts with the [star] mark are special corrosion-resistant Dacro fasteners. Use the same type if replacement is necessary. 1. Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper location. Connector Views 111. Rear Window Defogger, Fuel Cut, Radiator Fan Main (Climate Control) And Intermittent Wiper Relays Page 5801 In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locater) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: - Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. Page 2848 1. Inspect the cooling air intake behind the passenger seat and the cooling exhaust holes in the IMA case above the spare tire. If either is obstructed, remove the obstruction, and clear the code. Advise the customer that blocking the vents can cause this problem. 2. Remove the IMA cover (steps 3-10 of REPAIR PROCEDURE). Refer to page 12-4 of the 2000 Insight Service Manual. 3. Make sure the cooling fan on the battery pack is operating normally. Use the PGM Tester to run the fan in high and low speed modes. ^ If the fan is OK, check the part number on the battery condition monitor module. If the part number is not 1K100-PHM-030, then the battery condition monitor module and the motor control module need to be replaced. Go to REPAIR PROCEDURE. ^ If the fan is not OK, repair as needed. REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Write down the radio station presets. 2. Turn the ignition switch off, then disconnect the negative cable from the 12-volt battery in the engine compartment. 3. Remove the cargo area carpet and the cargo box. (Refer to page 20-43 of the Insight Service Manual). Page 5386 Fluid - CVT: Service and Repair ATF Replacement ATF Replacement NOTE: Keep all foreign particles out of the transmission. 1. Bring the transmission up to normal operating temperature (the radiator fan comes on) by driving the vehicle. 2. Park the vehicle on level ground, and turn the engine off. 3. Remove the engine under cover on the transmission side. 4. Remove the drain plug (A), and drain the automatic transmission fluid (ATF). 5. Reinstall the drain plug with a new sealing washer (B). 6. Remove the air cleaner housing. 7. Refill transmission with the recommended fluid into the filler hole (A) to the upper mark on the dipstick. Always use genuine Honda ATF-Z1 Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF). Using a nonHonda ATF can affect shift quality. 8. Check that the fluid level is between the upper mark (B) and lower mark (C) on the COLD portion of the gauge. 9. Install the ATF filler bolt (B) with a new sealing washer (C). 10. Insert the dipstick back into the transmission. 11. Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature (the radiator fan comes on). 12. Check that the fluid level is between the upper mark (A) and lower mark (B) on HOT level. 13. Install the air cleaner housing, and install the engine cover. Page 908 Radiator Cooling Fan Temperature Sensor / Switch: Service and Repair Radiator Fan Switch Replacement 1. Disconnect the radiator fan switch connector, then remove the radiator fan switch (A). 2. Install the radiator fen switch using a new O-ring (B). Page 8862 Wire Color Coding Distinct Of Circuit By Wire Base Color All wires have color-coded insulation. Wires belonging to a system's main harness will have a single color. Wires belonging to a system's sub-circuits will have a colored stripe. Striped wires use the codes found in the chart to show wire size and colors. Abbreviations are used to indicate wire color within a circuit diagram. Wire Color Abbreviations The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics: WHT................................... White YEL................................... Yellow BLK................................... Black BLU................................... Blue GRN................................... Green RED................................... Red ORN................................... Orange PNK................................... Pink BRN................................... Brown GRY................................... Gray PUR................................... Purple LT BLU................................... Light Blue LT GRN................................... Light Green The wire insulation has one color or one color with another color stripe. The second color is the stripe. How to Identify Connector Terminals How to Identify Connector Terminals Page 4633 121. EGR Valve And EGR Valve Position Sensor CVT Pulley Pressure Control Valve Assembly 132. Valve Body (Remove) (CVT) Page 116 Relay And Control Unit Locations - Dashboard 31. Left Front Side of Engine Compartment Page 5757 Electronic Brake Control Module: Testing and Inspection Page 8551 NOTE: Be careful not to polish down to the primer surfacer. When the painting repair is almost done, polish the area that will be top coated. Use the #2000 sandpaper and compound. 5. Air blowing /degreasing Use alcohol, wax, and grease remover. Also clean and degrease the surfaces where the masking tape will be attached. Top Coating Top Coating 1. Masking Mask the area surrounding the damage to prevent over spray from the top coat. Use masking tape and paper. 2. Spraying top coat enamel / clear coat Spray 2-3 double coat until the intermediate coat is fully covered. Use the 2-part polyester urethane top coat enamel and a spray gun. - Mix the top coat enamel with the additive and solvent, and in the correct ratio. - Follow the top coat manufacturer's instructions. Drying After spraying the top coat enamel, allow it to air dry, then force dry it with infrared lamps or other industrial dryer. NOTE: Follow the top coat manufacturer's instructions for drying time. Spraying clear coat Page 9000 Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Service Precautions Wiring Precautions Wiring Precautions SRS wiring can be identified by special yellow outer covering (except the SRS indicator light circuit). Never attempt to modify, splice, or repair SRS wiring. If there is an open or damage in SRS wiring, replace the harness. Be sure to install the harness wires so that they are not pinched, or interfere with other parts. Make sure all SRS ground locations are clean, and grounds are securely fastened for optimum metal-to-metal contact. Poor grounding can cause intermittent problems that are difficult to diagnose. Page 1837 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 3568 Idle Speed: Description and Operation Idle Stop Switch (CVT Model) Idle Stop Switch (CVT model) The idle stop switch signals the ECM when the brake pedal is pressed. Page 9679 47. Steering Wheel (Airbag Removed) Diagram Information and Instructions Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System Terminal Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown below is #6. Page 6376 Terminals - "T" Shielding Switches Fuses Page 819 Diodes How to Identify Wiring Color-Coded Insulation Wire Color Engine/Motor Controls - IMA Indicator ON/DTC's Set Battery Condition Monitor: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine/Motor Controls - IMA Indicator ON/DTC's Set 02-035 July 23, 2002 Applies To: 2000 Insight - ALL 2001 Insight With M/T - From JHMZE13...1T00001 thru JHMZE13...1T01925 IMA Indicator Comes On With DTC 63 or P1448 (Supersedes 02-035, IMA System Stores DTC 63 or P1448, dated June 25, 2002) Updated information is shown by black bars and asterisks. SYMPTOM The IMA (Integrated Motor Assist) system indicator is on and DIG 63 (P1448) is stored in the MCM memory. PROBABLE CAUSE The MCM (motor control module) software incorrectly reports an IMA battery cooling problem. CORRECTIVE ACTION Replace the battery condition monitor module and the motor control module. PARTS INFORMATION ECU Module Kit: P/N 06060-PHM-305 H/C 6912901 WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. * Operation Number: 118122 * Flat Rate Time: 0.8 hour Failed Part: P/N 1K100-PHM-010 H/C 6377170 Defect Code: 032 Contention Code: C99 Template ID: 02-035A Skill Level: Repair Technician Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. DIAGNOSIS Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box Fuse: Application and ID Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box Part 1 Page 2890 6. Remove the right trunk shelf support (five clips and two bolts). 7. Remove the six mid-frame cover bolts. Remove the intelligent power unit (IPU) lid (17 bolts). 8. Measure the voltage at the junction board terminals. There should be 30 V or less. If you read more than 30 V, there is a problem in the circuit; do the DTC troubleshooting first. 9. Look at the part number on the motor control module (MCM), and refer to this chart. If there is a replacement part number listed for it, you need to order a replacement MCM. 10. Look at the part number on the battery condition monitor (BCM). If the part number is not 1K100-PHM-A01, you need to order a replacement BCM. Page 2542 Part 1 Of 2 Service and Repair Body Emblem: Service and Repair Emblem Replacement NOTE: When removing the front "H" emblem, take care not to scratch the hood. Apply the emblems where shown, and note these items: - Rear "H" emblem, HYBRID emblem and Insight emblem: Align the application tape with the lower rear window, then press the emblem into place. Remove the application tape. - Clean the body surface with a sponge dampened in alcohol. - After cleaning, keep oil, grease, and water from getting on the surface. Page 3767 DTC P1253 thru P1459 Page 7527 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 9876 - Taillight relay Page 8879 EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Diagrams Page 4251 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. Page 4569 Does the meter indicate pulsing voltage? YES - Replace the speedometer. NO - Repair open in the BLU/WHT wire between the VSS and the speedometer. Page 2207 Engine Oil: Testing and Inspection INSPECTION: 1. Park the vehicle on level ground, and turn off the engine. Allow the oil a few minutes to drain back into the oil pan so the dipstick will show the actual level. 2. Make certain that the oil level indicated on the dipstick is between the upper and lower marks. 3. If the level has dropped close to the lower mark, add oil until it reaches the upper mark. CAUTION: Insert the dipstick carefully to avoid bending it. Page 5431 Transmission Speed Sensor: Service and Repair Speed Sensors Replacement 1. Disconnect the connectors from the drive pulley speed sensor (A), the driven pulley speed sensor (B), and the CVT speed sensor (C). 2. Remove the 6 mm bolts, then remove the speed sensors. 3. Replace the O-rings (D) with new ones before installing the speed sensors. 4. Install the drive pulley speed sensor, driven pulley speed sensor, and CVT speed sensor. 5. Check the speed sensor connectors for rust, dirt, or oil, then connect the connectors securely. Page 7271 Splices Components Ground - "G" Page 4370 Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Description and Operation ECT (Engine Coolant Temperature) Sensor The ECT sensor is a temperature dependent resistor (thermistor). The resistance of the thermistor decreases as the engine coolant temperature increases. Page 6440 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 8945 Fuel Gauge Sender: Testing and Inspection Fuel Gauge Sending Unit Test/Replacement Special Tools Required Adjustable ring wrench 07XAA-001010A NOTE: This article has been updated as per TSB SN030415. NOTE: For the fuel gauge system circuit diagram, refer to the Gauges Circuit Diagram. Test 1. Check the No.6 fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box before testing. 2. Remove the middle floor panel. 3. Remove the access panel from the floor. 4. Turn the ignition switch OFF, then disconnect the fuel pump 5P connector. 5. Measure voltage between the fuel pump 5P connector terminals No.1 and No.2 with the ignition switch ON (II). There should be Battery Voltage. - If the voltage is as specified, go to step 6. - If the voltage is not as specified, check for: an open in the YEL/BLK or BLK wire. - poor ground (G502). 6. Turn the ignition switch OFF. Remove the No.18 (7.5 A) fuse from the under-dash fuse/relay box for at least 10 seconds, then reinstall it. 7. Install a 2 Ohms resistor between the fuel pump 5P connector terminals No.1 and No.2, then turn the ignition switch ON (II). 8. Check that the pointer of the fuel gauge starts moving toward the "F" mark. - If the pointer of the fuel gauge does not move at all, replace the gauge. - If the gauge is OK, inspect the fuel gauge sending unit. NOTE: Turn the ignition switch OFF before the pointer reaches "F" on the gauge dial. Failure to do so may damage the fuel gauge. - The fuel gauge is a bobbin (cross-coil) type, hence the fuel level is continuously indicated even when the ignition switch is OFF, and the pointer moves more slowly than that of a bimetal type. Replacement 1. Remove the fuel tank. 2. Disconnect the quick-connect fittings from the fuel pump. Page 6627 In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locater) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: - Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. Page 9236 3. Using the tool, loosen the fuel tank unit locknut (A). 4. Remove the bracket (A), the fuel pressure regulator assembly (B), the fuel filter (C), the fuel tank unit (D), the case (E), and the wire harness (F). 5. When connecting the fuel pump, make sure the connection is secure and the suction filter (G) is firmly connected to the fuel pump (H). 6. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal with a new base gasket (I), then check these items: - When connecting the wire harness, make sure the connection is secure and the connector (J) is firmly locked into the place. - Do not push the lower part of the suction filter. - When installing the fuel gauge sending unit, make sure the connection is secure and the connector is firmly locked into place. Be careful not to bend or twist it excessively. - When installing the fuel pump assembly, align the marks (K) on the fuel tank (L) and the fuel pump assembly (M). Page 666 Failed Part: P/N 1K000-PHM-000 Defect Code: 03214 Symptom Code: 03205 Skill Level: Repair Technician INSPECTION PROCEDURE 1. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 2. Remove the cargo floor mat (see page 20-44 of the 2000-04 Insight Service Manual). (In ISIS, use the keyword FLOOR MAT, and select Interior Trim Removal/Installation - Cargo Area from the list.) 3. Remove the battery module switch cover (two bolts), then remove the locking cover from the switch. 4. Flip the battery module switch to OFF. Reinstall the locking cover. 5. Wait at least 5 minutes to let the capacitors in the system discharge. Page 7313 30. Left Front Side of Engine Compartment Page 3839 DTC P1586 thru P1678 Page 5915 Brake Master Cylinder: Service and Repair MASTER CYLINDER REPLACEMENT NOTE: Do not spill brake fluid on the vehicle; it may damage the paint; if brake fluid does contact the paint, wash it off immediately with water. 1. Remove the reservoir cap, and remove the brake fluid. 2. Disconnect the brake fluid level switch connector (A) from the reservoir (B), and disconnect the brake lines (C) from the master cylinder (D). To prevent spills, cover the hose joints with rags or shops towels. 3. Remove the master cylinder mounting nuts (E) and washers. 4. Remove the master cylinder from the brake booster (F). Be careful not to bend or damage the brake lines when removing the master cylinder. 5. Remove the rod seal (G) from the brake booster. 6. Install the master cylinder in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: ^ Replace all rubber parts with new ones whenever removed. Coat the lip of the new rod seal with the recommended seal grease in the master cylinder set. ^ Install the rod seal onto the brake booster with its grooved side toward the master cylinder. 7. Bleed the brake system. 8. Check for leaks at the line joints, and retighten if necessary. Page 2456 10. Disconnect the radiator fan switch 2P connector, then connect a jumper wire between terminal No. 1 and No. 2. Does the fan run? YES- Replace the radiator fan switch. NO- Go to step 11. 11. Remove the jumper wire, and measure the voltage between and body ground. Is there battery voltage? YES- Check for an open in the BLK wire between the radiator fan switch connector and body ground. If the wire is OK, check for a poor ground at G101. NO- Repair an open in the GRN wire and BLU/RED wire between the radiator fan switch connector and under-hood fuse/relay box. Troubleshooting (with A/C) 1. Check the No. 11 (30 A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box. Is the fuse OK ? YES- Go to step 2. NO- Replace the fuse and recheck. 2. Remove the radiator fan relay from the under-hood fuse/relay box, and test it. Is the relay OK? YES- Go to step 3. NO- Replace the radiator fan relays 3. Measure the voltage between radiator fan relay 4P socket terminal No. 1 and body ground. Is there battery voltage? YES- Go to step 4. NO- Replace the under-hood fuse/relay box. Page 9809 Parking Lamp: Connector Locations Page 6479 Wire Color Coding Distinct Of Circuit By Wire Base Color All wires have color-coded insulation. Wires belonging to a system's main harness will have a single color. Wires belonging to a system's sub-circuits will have a colored stripe. Striped wires use the codes found in the chart to show wire size and colors. Abbreviations are used to indicate wire color within a circuit diagram. Wire Color Abbreviations The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics: WHT................................... White YEL................................... Yellow BLK................................... Black BLU................................... Blue GRN................................... Green RED................................... Red ORN................................... Orange PNK................................... Pink BRN................................... Brown GRY................................... Gray PUR................................... Purple LT BLU................................... Light Blue LT GRN................................... Light Green The wire insulation has one color or one color with another color stripe. The second color is the stripe. How to Identify Connector Terminals How to Identify Connector Terminals Page 9721 48. License Plate Light Page 3256 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. Page 6436 Relay Box: Diagnostic Aids Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Page 3197 ECM Inputs and Outputs at Connector B (25P) Part 1 Page 5486 8. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). Move the shift lever through all gear positions, and check the transmission range switch synchronization with the A/T gear position indicator. 9. Check that the engine can start in the [P] and [N] positions, and cannot start in any other shift lever position. 10. Check that the back-up lights come on when the shift lever is in the [R] position. 11. Allow the wheels to rotate freely, then start the engine, and check the shift lever operation. Page 3247 First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Service and Repair Synchronizer Ring: Service and Repair For further information regarding this component and the system that it is a part of, please refer to Manual Transmission/Transaxle; Service and Repair. Locations 19. Rear of Transmission (M/T) Page 8509 Power Door Lock Switch: Testing and Inspection Driver's Door Lock Knob Switch Test Driver's Door Lock Knob Switch Test 1. Remove the driver's door panel. 2. Disconnect the 3P connector (A) from the actuator (B). 3. Check for continuity between the A1 and A2 terminals. - With the driver's door locked, there should be continuity. - With the driver's door unlocked, there should be no continuity. 4. If the continuity is not as specified, replace the driver's door lock knob switch. Page 834 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 8043 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Page 5765 168. ABS Modulator-Control Unit Page 2447 Radiator Cooling Fan Motor: Description and Operation Without A/C Voltage is provided at all times to the radiator fan relay contacts through fuse 19. With the ignition switch in ACC (I) or ON (II), voltage is provided to the coil of the relays through fuse 16 (in the under-dash fuse/relay box.) The relay is grounded by the radiator fan switch. Grounding the relay energizes the coil and applies battery voltage to the radiator fan motor. The fan will then run until the fan switch removes ground. Page 8422 Trim Panel: Service and Repair Trim Removal/Installation - Rear Quarter Panel Area Trim Removal/Installation - Rear Quarter Panel Area Special Tools Required KTC trim tool set SOJATP2014 * * Available through the American Honda Tool and Equipment Program NOTE: - Put on gloves to protect your hands. - Use the appropriate tool from the KTC trim tool set to avoid damage when prying components. - Take care not to bend or scratch the trim and panels. - When removing the hatch support strut, you will need to open or close the hatch by hand. - Remove the quarter trim panel and rear side trim panel as an assembly. 1. Remove these items: - B-pillar lower trim panel - Door weatherstrip, as necessary - Cargo floor mat and rear trim panel, as necessary - Seat belt upper anchor - Hatch support strut, body side 2. Remove the trim as shown. 3. Install the trim in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - Check for damaged or stress-whitened clips, and replace them with new ones. - Apply liquid thread lock to the anchor bolt before reinstallation. - Before installing the anchor bolt, make sure there are no twists or kinks in the seat belt. - Push the clips into place securely. Page 40 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 3654 Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Service and Repair ECT Sensor Replacement 1. Disconnect the ECT sensor connector, then remove the ECT sensor (A). 2. Install the ECT sensor using a new O-ring (B). Hybrid System - IMA Indicator ON/DTC's P1447/P1449 Battery Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins Hybrid System - IMA Indicator ON/DTC's P1447/P1449 04-028 March 16, 2011 Applies To: 2000-04 Insight - ALL IMA System Indicator On With IMA DTC 77 (P1447) or DTC 78 (P1449) (Supersedes 04-028, dated April 30, 2010, to revise the information marked by the black bars and asterisks) *REVISION SUMMARY Under WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION, some operation number and flat rate time information was changed.* PROBLEM The IMA system indicator comes on and IMA DTC 77 (P1447) (battery module deterioration) or DTC 78 (P1449) (battery module deterioration) is set. CORRECTIVE ACTION Replace the battery module. Inspect the motor control module (MCM) and the battery condition monitor (BCM) to determine if they also need to be replaced. PARTS INFORMATION WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION The normal warranty applies. NOTE: IMA components (battery module, battery condition monitor, and motor control module) are covered under warranty for 8 years or 80,000 miles, whichever comes first. Page 6709 Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box Page 9157 Diodes How to Identify Wiring Color-Coded Insulation Wire Color Page 9158 Wire Color Coding Distinct Of Circuit By Wire Base Color All wires have color-coded insulation. Wires belonging to a system's main harness will have a single color. Wires belonging to a system's sub-circuits will have a colored stripe. Striped wires use the codes found in the chart to show wire size and colors. Abbreviations are used to indicate wire color within a circuit diagram. Wire Color Abbreviations The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics: WHT................................... White YEL................................... Yellow BLK................................... Black BLU................................... Blue GRN................................... Green RED................................... Red ORN................................... Orange PNK................................... Pink BRN................................... Brown GRY................................... Gray PUR................................... Purple LT BLU................................... Light Blue LT GRN................................... Light Green The wire insulation has one color or one color with another color stripe. The second color is the stripe. How to Identify Connector Terminals How to Identify Connector Terminals Locations Page 528 5. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). Measure voltage between body ground and PGM-FI main relay (fuel pump) 4P connector terminal No.2, and between PGM-FI main relay (IGP) 4P connector terminal No.4. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 7. NO - Go to step 6. 6. Check for a blown No.2 (15 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box. Is the fuse blown? YES - Repair the short in the wire between PGM-FI main relay and the No.2 fuse. NO - Repair the open in the wire between the PGM-FI main relay and the No.2 (15 A) fuse. 7. Turn the ignition switch OFF, and disconnect ECM connector A (32P). 8. Check for continuity between PGM-FI main relay (fuel pump) 4P connector terminal No.3 and ECM connector terminal A15. Is there continuity? YES - Go to step 9. NO - Repair open in the wire between the PGM-FI main relay and the ECM (A15). 9. Reconnect ECM connector A (32P) and the PGM-FI main relay connectors. Page 4787 Page 1205 60. Middle of Dash Page 2437 - Taillight relay Page 9895 Relay And Control Unit Locations - Dashboard Recall - Emissions/ECM Replacement Technical Service Bulletin # 02-081 Date: 021217 Recall - Emissions/ECM Replacement 02-081 December 17, 2002 Applies To: 2000 Insight - ALL 2001 Insight with M/T - ALL Emissions Recall: Insight ECM BACKGROUND The ECM does not correctly identify all malfunctions of the air/fuel ratio sensor (sensor 1). Because of this, the vehicle does not meet state and federal emissions regulations. CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION All owners of affected vehicles will be mailed a notification of this campaign. The customer notification letter is shown in this service bulletin. CORRECTIVE ACTION Replace the ECM. After you replace the ECM, reinitialize the immobilizer system, and do the idle learn procedure. PARTS INFORMATION WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION Operation Number: 122124 Flat Rate Time: 1.0 hour Failed Part: P/N 37820-PHM-A01 H/C 6344626 Defect Code: 5BL Contention Code: L78 Skill Level: Repair Technician REPAIR PROCEDURE NOTE: Make sure you have all of your customer's keys. 1. Carefully remove the passenger's door sill trim. If you break any of the trim clips, replace them (P/N 91560-S06-003, H/C 6353502). Page 2571 Water Pump: Service and Repair Replacement 1. Loosen the idler pulley center nut. Turn the adjusting bolt clockwise (counterclockwise for models without A/C compressor), then remove the water pump-A/C compressor belt or water pump belt. 2. Remove the water pump (A) by removing three bolts. 3. Inspect, repair, and clean the O-ring groove and the mating surface on the thermostat housing. 4. Install the water pump, with a new O-ring (B), in the reverse order of removal. 5. Clean the spilled engine coolant. Page 10071 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: Removal and Installation Brake Caliper: Service and Repair Removal and Installation Front Inspection and Replacement CAUTION: Frequent inhalation of brake pad dust, regardless of material composition, could be hazardous to your health. ^ Avoid breathing dust particles. ^ Never use an air hose or brush to clean brake assemblies. Use an OHSA-Approved vacuum cleaner. NOTICE: To avoid damage, do not strike aluminum parts with a metal hammer. If necessary, tap gently with a plastic tipped hammer. NOTE: Nuts and bolts with the [star] mark are special corrosion-resistant Dacro fasteners. Use the same type if replacement is necessary. Replacement 1. Remove the brake hose bracket mounting bolts (A) from the damper. 2. Remove the bolt (B) and pivot the caliper (C) up out of the way. Check the hose, pin boot, and sleeve boots for damage and deterioration. 3. Remove the pad shim (A), pad retainers (B), and inner (C) and outer (D) pad. 4. Clean the caliper thoroughly; the caliper is aluminum, check for cracks. 5. Check the brake disc for damage and cracks. Locations Turn Signal Relay: Locations Turn Signal/Hazard Flasher Page 2001 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Locations Relay And Control Unit Location - Engine Compartment Page 9820 Cavity Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity / terminal shown is # 6. Circuit Schematics Page 9700 Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution diagram set to get a more detailed picture of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Page 9692 Connectors - "C" Page 3697 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 4732 Fuel Pressure: Testing and Inspection Fuel Pressure Test Special Tools Required Fuel pressure gauge 07406-004000A M/T model: 1. Relieve the fuel pressure. 2. Remove the sealing nut from the fuel rail. Attach the fuel pressure adapter nut, 12 mm (A) and the fuel pressure gauge. 3. Disconnect the vacuum hose (C) from the fuel pressure regulator (D), and pinch it closed with a clamp (E). 4. Start the engine and let it idle. - If the engine starts, go to step 6. - If the engine does not start, go to step 5. 5. Check to see if the fuel pump is running: Remove the fuel fill cap, and hold your ear to the fuel fill port while an assistant turns the ignition switch ON (II). You should hear the pump run for about two seconds when the ignition is turned ON (II). If the fuel pump runs, make sure there is sufficient fuel in the tank, then go to step 6. - If the fuel pump does not run, test it. 6. Read the pressure gauge (with the fuel pressure regulator vacuum hose disconnected and clamped). The pressure should be 270 - 320 kPa (2.8 3.3 kgf/sq.cm, 40 - 47 psi). If the pressure is OK and engine is running, go to step 8. If the engine is not running, repair the cause, then continue this test. - If the pressure is out of spec, go to step 8. 7. With the engine running, unpinch and reconnect the vacuum hose and read the gauge again. The pressure should be 210 - 260 kPa (2.1 - 2.6 kgf/sq.cm, 30 - 37 psi). If the fuel pressure is OK, the test is complete, go to step 9. - If the pressure is out of spec, go to step 8. 8. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the pressure regulator again while you watch the pressure gauge. The pressure should rise when you disconnect the hose. If the pressure did not rise, replace the fuel pressure regulator. - If the pressure rose, but all your readings were lower than specified, check for a clogged fuel filter and for leaks in the fuel lines. - If the pressure rose, but all your readings were higher than specified, check for a pinched or clogged fuel return hose or line. 9. Reconnect the vacuum hose, remove the pressure gauge, and reinstall the sealing nut with a new washer. Tighten the sealing nut to 22 N.m (2.2 kgf.m, 16 lbf.ft). NOTE: Disassemble and clean the fuel pressure gauge attachment thoroughly after use. CVT model: 1. Relieve the fuel pressure. Testing and Inspection Oxygen Sensor Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relay Test Normally-open type A: 1. Turn the battery module switch OFF, and measure the voltage. 2. Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is disconnected. A/C compressor clutch relay - Air fuel ratio sensor relay - Condenser fan relay - Daytime running lights relay (Canada) - Headlight relay 1 - Headlight relay 2 - High speed battery module fan control relay - High speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - High voltage conductor control relay - Horn relay - Ignition hold relay - Low speed battery module fan control relay - Low speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - Power window relay - Radiator fan relay - Rear window defogger relay - Reverse relay - Starter cut relay Page 87 Trunk / Liftgate Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relay Test Normally-open type B: Hatch Opener Relay 1. Turn the battery module switch OFF, and measure the voltage. 2. Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 3 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 2 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 3 terminals when power is disconnected. Page 9958 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. Page 1155 Brake Light Switch: Diagrams 185. Idle Stop Switch (CVT) Page 3391 Camshaft Position Sensor: Diagrams 63. TDC Sensor 1 64. TDC Sensor 2 Page 8619 Power Door Lock Switch: Testing and Inspection Driver's Door Lock Switch Test Driver's Door Lock Switch Test 1. Remove the driver's door panel. 2. Disconnect the 3P connector from the switch. 3. Check for continuity between the terminal in each switch position according to the table. 4. If the continuity is not as specified, replace the driver's door lock switch. Page 1017 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. Page 3312 Fuel Pump Relay: Description and Operation PGM-FI Main Relay The PGM-FI main relay contains two separate relays. One is energized whenever the ignition is on which supplies battery voltage to the ECM, power to the fuel injectors, and power for the fuel cut relay. The fuel cut relay is energized to supply power to the fuel pump for 2 seconds when the ignition is switched ON (II), and when the engine is running. Locations 23. Left Rear of Engine Compartment Page 2993 Relay And Control Unit Locations - Floor And Rear Page 9925 48. Left Side of Steering Column Page 3052 Page 1172 Splices Components Ground - "G" Page 1077 Fuel Gauge Sender: Technical Service Bulletins Fuel Gauge Sending Unit - Service Manual Revision SOURCE: Honda Service News April 2003 TITLE: S/M Fix: Fuel Gauge Sending Unit Test APPLIES TO: 2000-03 Insight SERVICE TIP: Step 6 on page 11-192 of the 2000-03 Insight S/M lists the wrong measured voltage between terminals No. 1 and No. 2 of the fuel pump 5P connector. The right measured voltage should be battery voltage. Fix your copies of the S/M to look like this: Page 7807 Seat Belt Tensioner: Service and Repair Disposal of Damaged Components Disposal of Damaged Components 1. If installed in the vehicle, follow the removal procedure for the driver's airbag, passenger's airbag, and seat belt tensioner. 2. In all cases, make a short circuit by cutting, stripping, and twisting together the two airbag inflator wires and seat belt tensioner wires. 3. Package the airbag or seat belt tensioner in the same packaging that the new replacement part came in. 4. Mark the outside of the box "DAMAGED AIRBAG NOT DEPLOYED" or "DAMAGED SEAT BELT TENSIONER NOT DEPLOYED" so it does not get confused with your parts stock. 5. Contact your Honda District Service Manager for how and where to return it for disposal. Page 2826 IMA Motor: Vehicle Damage Warnings IMA System Service Precautions - The Insight IMA (Integrated Motor Assisted) system uses high voltage (144 V) circuits. Be sure to shut off the electrical circuits and isolate the IMA system and related parts before you work on them. - High voltage cables and their covers are identified by orange coloring. Caution labels are attached to high voltage and other related parts. Be careful not to touch these cables and parts without using adequate protective gear. The front floor under-cover protecting the high voltage cables is marked with this symbol. - If the 12 V battery has been discharged, or either of its cables has been disconnected, or the MCM (Motor Control Module) has been reset, the IMA battery level indicator (BAT) will not indicate the state of charge when you start the engine. To correct this, start the engine, and hold it between 3,500 - 4,000 rpm without load (in park or neutral) until the IMA battery level indicator (BAT) functions properly. - Follow these instructions when you inspect or service the IMA system. - If the IMA system indicator is on, troubleshoot the IMA system first. - Wear insulated gloves whenever you inspect or service the IMA system. Be sure to check the gloves for pin holes, tears, and other damage. - Turn the battery module switch OFF, and secure it in the OFF position with the locking cover before you work on the IMA system. - Wait at least 5 minutes for the condensers to discharge after you turn off the battery module switch. - Before you disconnect the high voltage cable terminals, make sure the voltage between them is about 0 V when measured with a voltmeter. - When working on or around parts with no insulation, be sure to use insulated tools to prevent short circuiting. - The motor rotor contains very strong magnets and should be handled with special care. People with pacemakers or other magnetically sensitive medical devices should not handle the rotor. - Use the special tool to remove or install the rotor. WARNING: If you try to install the rotor by hand, it will suddenly be pulled toward the stator with great force which could cause serious hand or finger injury. Always use the special tool to remove or install the rotor. - Do not use the rotor if the fiberglass band around it is damaged. If the band breaks during use, magnets may come loose from the rotor. - Keep the rotor away from magnetically sensitive devices such as credit or ID cards with magnetic strips on them. - After disconnecting the high voltage terminals, busbar, etc., insulate the connections with electrical tape. - Make two signs saying, "WORKING ON HIGH VOLTAGE PARTS. DO NOT TOUCH!" Attach one to the steering wheel, and set the other one near the parts you're working on. Turning off power to the high voltage circuit Follow this procedure before you work on or near any high voltage components. Follow it exactly, otherwise, you may injure yourself or damage equipment. 1. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 2. Remove the cargo floor mat. Page 6068 11. Remove the mid-frame, then remove the front and rear IPU braces from the junction board. 12. Disconnect the high-voltage cables from the output terminals on the junction board, and wrap them with insulating tape. 13. Remove the battery module air duct mounting bolt, then push the duct forward. 14. Remove the mounting bolts from the battery module. Disconnect the connectors and the Y condenser terminal. NOTE: After disconnection, temporarily secure the Y condenser harness on the junction board. 15. Set the battery module lifting tool on the module, and install the six knurled bolts. Page 9317 Terminals - "T" Shielding Switches Fuses Page 7337 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. Page 8064 Wire Color Abbreviations Page 254 In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locater) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: - Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. Page 7939 Driver/Vehicle Information Display: Service and Repair Fuel Consumption Display Switch Replacement 1. Remove the instrument panel. 2. Disconnect the 6P connector (A) from the switch (B). 3. Remove the two screws and the switch. 4. Check for continuity between the No.6 and No.1 terminals when the switch is pushed. There should be continuity Diagram Information and Instructions Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System Terminal Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown below is #6. Page 4361 YES - Replace the clutch switch. NO - Go to step 9. 9. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 10. Disconnect ECM connector B (25P). 11. Check for continuity between ECM connector terminal B14 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Repair short in the wire between the ECM (B14) and the clutch switch. NO - Substitute a known-good ECM and recheck. If symptom/indication goes away, replace the original ECM. See: Testing and Inspection/Initial Inspection and Diagnostic Overview/Diagnostic Strategies 12. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 13. Disconnect the clutch switch 2P connector. 14. Check for continuity between the clutch switch 2P connector terminals No.1 and No.2 with the clutch pedal pressed. Is there continuity? YES - Go to step 15. NO - Adjust the clutch switch. 15. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). Page 8403 Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Description and Operation Definitions Air Bag An inflatable cloth cushion designed to deploy in certain frontal crashes. It supplements the protection offered by the seat belts by distributing the impact load more evenly over the vehicle occupant's head and torso. Asynchronous Performed in a nonperiodic fashion, (i.e., no defined time or interval). (B+) Battery voltage, (B+) The voltage available at the battery at the time of the indicated measurement. With the key "ON" and the engine not running, the system voltage will likely be between 12 and 12.5 volts. At idle the voltage may be 14 to 16 volts. The voltage could be as low as 10 volts during engine cranking. Bulb Check The SDM will cause the "AIR BAG" warning lamp to flash seven times and then go "OFF" whenever the ignition switch transitions to the ON position from any other ignition switch position and no malfunctions are detected. "CONTINUOUS MONITORING" Tests performed by the SDM on the SRS every 100 milliseconds while "Ignition 1" voltage is in the normal operating voltage range at the SDM. Data Link Connector (DLC) Formerly "DLC" a connector which allows communication with an external computer, such as a scan tool. Datum Line A base line parallel to the plane of the underbody or frame from which all vertical measurements originate. Deploy To inflate the air bag. Deployment Loops The circuits which supply current to the air bag assemblies to deploy the air bag. Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) Formerly "Code", a numerical designator used by the SDM to indicate specific SRS malfunctions. Driver Current Source An output of the SDM which applies current into the driver air bag assembly circuit during the "Initiator Assembly Resistance Test". Driver Air Bag Assembly An assembly located in the steering wheel hub consisting of an inflatable bag, an inflator and an initiator. EEPROM Electronically Erasable Programmable Read Only Memory. Memory which retains its contents when power is removed from the SDM. Ignition Cycle The voltage at the SDM "Ignition 1" inputs, with ignition switch "ON", is within the normal operating voltage range for at least ten seconds before turning ignition switch "OFF". Ignition 1 Page 9832 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 4913 First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Locations 26. Behind Left Headlight Assembly (Right Similar) Page 3637 Camshaft Position Sensor: Diagrams 63. TDC Sensor 1 64. TDC Sensor 2 Page 8075 Alarm/Immobilizer Control Unit: Diagnostic Aids Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Page 2804 CORRECTIVE ACTION Based on the model and/or model year, install the appropriate IMA repair kit or part. WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Turn the ignition switch to the LOCK (0 position). 2. Remove cargo floor mat: ^ Refer to page 20-44 of the 2000-2006 Insight Service Manual, or ^ Online, enter keywords FLOOR MAT, then select Interior Trim Removal/Installation - Cargo Area from the list. 3. Remove the battery module switch cover (two bolts), then remove the locking cover from the switch. Page 9698 Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow from power at the top of the diagram to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another for example is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors Page 7959 NOTE: Once you submit your order, you can track it using the Warranty Audio VIN Inquiry screen on the iN. For details, go to WARRANTY AUDIO ORDER PROGRAM FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS in this service bulletin. 7. You will receive a remanufactured audio/navigation/RES unit packed in a reusable shipping box. Save this box and the packing materials. You must return the failed audio/navigation/RES unit core in this box. Otherwise your dealership risks being billed a core loss charge, ranging from $800 to $2,500, depending on the unit. 8. Remove the failed audio/navigation/RES unit: ^ Refer to the appropriate component section of the service manual or, ^ Online, enter a keyword: AUDIO, NAVIGATION, or RES. Select the appropriate removal procedure from the list. 9. Install the remanufactured audio/navigation/RES unit: ^ Refer to the appropriate component section of the service manual or ^ Online, enter a keyword: AUDIO, NAVIGATION, or RES. Select the appropriate installation procedure from the list. 10. If the remanufactured unit has a shipping cover and shipping screws, make sure you transfer them to the faulty unit being returned. Also be sure to transfer all of the mounting brackets to the replacement unit. Failure to do this may result in dash squeaks and rattles. NOTE: If the customer's media (CD, CD magazine, DVD, DVD-A, cassette tape, etc.) is stuck in the unit, leave it there for these reasons: ^ The manufacturer needs it for diagnosis and testing. ^ Any failed audio/navigation/RES unit core that is returned disassembled is considered an unusable core. Customer media (CDs, CD magazines, DVDs, DVD-As, cassette tapes, etc.) will be properly removed by the supplier at the point of tear down and inspection of the failed unit, and mailed to your dealer. Make sure the failed audio/navigation/RES unit core is not disassembled! If the core is disassembled, your dealership will be debited a core loss charge ranging from $800 to $2,500, depending on the unit. 11. Put the failed audio/navigation/RES unit core in the same box that the remanufactured unit came in. NOTE: If you do not return the failed audio/navigation/RES unit core in this same box, your warranty claim will be debited and the core will be sent back to your dealership. Parts Manager: 12. The Warranty Audio/Navigation/RES Unit Order form you submitted is kept on the iN for 60 days. Print out a copy to put in the box with your core return: ^ From the iN main menu, click on SERVICE. ^ Click on Transactions. ^ Click on Advanced Search, and enter a date range. ^ Click on Filtered by Service. ^ Under Transaction Description, click on Warranty Audio Order, then go back to the top of the page and click on Search. ^ Scroll down to the appropriate VIN, then select it to view the form. ^ Review the form, then print out a copy by clicking on the printer icon. 13. Print out a copy of the Core Return Update Acknowledgement to put in the box with your core return: ^ From the iN main menu, click on PARTS. Page 5391 Fluid Line/Hose: Service and Repair ATF Cooler Hoses Replacement 1. Lubricate hose and line joints with ATF, then install the ATF cooler hoses (A) to the ATF cooler lines (B). 2. Secure the ATF cooler hoses with the clips (C) in the position shown. Page 5890 25. Brake Fluid Level Switch Page 415 2. Remove the carpet hold-down clips on the door sill. 3. Remove the carpet hold-down clip in the passenger's footwell under the glove box. Pull back the carpet. 4. Remove the ECM cover mounting nuts. 5. Pivot the lower edge of the ECM cover off the mounting studs. Lift the upper edge of the cover off the mounting studs, then pull the cover down and back so it clears the evaporator drain tube. 6. Remove the two bolts mounting the ECM to the cover. Disconnect the ECM connectors, and remove the ECM. 7. Install the new ECM and the cover in the reverse order of removal. 8. Reinstall the carpet and the door sill trim. 9. Connect the PGM Tester to the data link connector (DLC). 10. Use the PGM Tester to program the customer's immobilizer key codes into the ECM. Verify that all the keys will start the engine. NOTE: Make sure the PGM Tester software is SN32OP or later. 11. Do the idle learn procedure: ^ Warm the engine to normal operating temperature. ^ Let the engine idle for 10 minutes. If the radiator fan comes on, do not include its running time in the 10 minutes. 12. Center-punch a completion mark above the eighth character of the engine compartment VIN. 13. For California residents: Fill out and give to your customer a Vehicle Emission Recall - Proof of Correction certificate. Advise them to keep this certificate as proof that the emissions recall was completed. Your customer will need to submit this certificate to the DMV if the DMV requests it. A supply of these salmon-colored certificates was sent to your service manager. If you need more, use reorder number Y0657. Page 94 Electronic Brake Control Module: Testing and Inspection Page 2534 Radiator Cooling Fan Motor Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relay Test Normally-open type A: 1. Turn the battery module switch OFF, and measure the voltage. 2. Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is disconnected. A/C compressor clutch relay - Air fuel ratio sensor relay - Condenser fan relay - Daytime running lights relay (Canada) - Headlight relay 1 - Headlight relay 2 - High speed battery module fan control relay - High speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - High voltage conductor control relay - Horn relay - Ignition hold relay - Low speed battery module fan control relay - Low speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - Power window relay - Radiator fan relay - Rear window defogger relay - Reverse relay - Starter cut relay Diagram Information and Instructions Fuel Injector: Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System Terminal Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown below is #6. Page 1665 Drive Belt: Adjustments Water Pump - A/C Compressor Belt With A/C Water Pump-A/C Compressor Belt Inspection and Adjustment // With A/C Special Tools Required - Belt tension gauge 07JGG-001010A Belt Tension Gauge Method Inspection 1. Remove the right rear splash shield. 2. Attach the belt tension gauge to the belt, and measure the tension. Follow the gauge manufacturer's instructions. If the belt is worn or damaged, replace it. If the belt needs adjustment, go to step 3. Adjustment 3. Loosen the idler pulley center nut (A). 4. Turn the adjusting bolt (B) to obtain the proper belt tension, then retighten the idler pulley center nut. 5. Recheck the belt tension. 6. If you installed a new belt, run the engine for five minutes, then readjust the belt to the used belt specification. Deflection Method Inspection Page 1144 - If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system. - If all the input tests prove OK, go to step 5. 5. Connect the connectors to the gauge assembly and make these input tests at the connector. - If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system. - If all the input tests prove OK, replace the printed circuit board in the gauge assembly. Page 9422 Cargo Lamp: Diagnostic Aids Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Page 7380 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 10 Wire Color Abbreviations Page 6672 Terminals - "T" Shielding Switches Fuses Page 7379 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 6197 Starter Motor: Testing and Inspection Starter Components Armature Inspection and Test 1. Remove the starter. Disassembly/Reassembly 2. Disassemble the starter as shown. Testing and Inspection A/C Signal: Testing and Inspection A/C Signal Circuit Troubleshooting 1. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 2. Disconnect the A/C pressure switch connector. 3. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 4. Measure voltage between ECM connector terminals A27 and B20. Is there about 5 V? YES-Go to step 5. NO-Go to step 12. 5. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 6. Reconnect the A/C pressure switch connector. 7. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 8. Momentarily connect ECM connector terminals A17 and B20 with a jumper wire several times. Is there a clicking noise from the A/C compressor clutch? YES-Go to step 9. NO-Go to step 15. 9. Start the engine. 10. Turn the blower switch ON. 11. Turn the A/C switch ON. Does the A/C operate? YES-The air conditioning signal is OK. NO-Go to step 16. 12. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 13. Disconnect ECM connector A (32P) Page 953 Evaporator Temperature Sensor / Switch: Diagrams 38. Evaporator Temperature Sensor 58. Evaporator Temperature Sensor Page 3077 DTC P1253 thru P1459 Page 6449 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. Page 494 Wires Driver's Seat Belt Tensioner 85. Left B-pillar Page 6377 Diodes How to Identify Wiring Color-Coded Insulation Wire Color Page 6599 Multiple Junction Connector: Service and Repair Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 4170 11. Lift out the battery module foam insert. 12. Remove the mounting bolts for the battery condition monitor (BCM) module and the motor control module (MCM). Disconnect the electrical connectors, then remove the modules. 13. Install the new BCM and MCM. Make sure all module connectors are secure. 14. Install the IPU lid. 15. Remove the locking cover from the battery module switch, install the 5 mm bolt, turn the switch on, reinstall the locking cover, and install the battery module switch cover. 16. Install the remaining parts in the reverse order of removal. 17. Reconnect the negative cable to the under-hood 12 V battery. Locations Compressor Clutch Relay: Locations Climate Control - Component Location Index Page 4960 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 10214 Relay And Control Unit Locations - Dashboard Page 5985 79. Brake Booster Vacuum Sensor Page 8618 Power Door Lock Switch: Testing and Inspection Driver's Door Lock Knob Switch Test Driver's Door Lock Knob Switch Test 1. Remove the driver's door panel. 2. Disconnect the 3P connector (A) from the actuator (B). 3. Check for continuity between the A1 and A2 terminals. - With the driver's door locked, there should be continuity. - With the driver's door unlocked, there should be no continuity. 4. If the continuity is not as specified, replace the driver's door lock knob switch. Page 3343 Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Diagnostic Aids Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Page 6930 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 7781 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. Capacity Specifications Coolant: Capacity Specifications Engine Coolant Change Capacity ............................................................................................................................................................. 2.3 L (2.4 US qt) Overhaul Capacity M/T ........................................................................................................................ .................................................... 4.0 L (4.2 US qt.) Overhaul Capacity CVT ....................................................................................................................... ..................................................... 3.9 L (4.1 US qt.) Reservoir Capacity .............................................................................................................................. ...................................................... 0.4 L (0.4 US qt) Page 898 Part 1 Of 2 Page 322 ^ If you still cannot hear the solenoid valve click or feel it tap when activated, continue with normal troubleshooting. 15. Insight only: Disconnect the PGM Tester, and return the vehicle to your customer. 16. All other affected models: Use the PGM Tester to run the EVAP system function test (see S/B 02-007, EVAP System Function Testing and Diagnostics With the PGM Tester). ^ If the EVAP system passes the function test, disconnect the PGM Tester, and return the vehicle to your customer. ^ If the EVAP system fails the function test, continue with normal troubleshooting. Disclaimer Page 1574 The steering wheel offset gauge is a sticker that attaches to the steering wheel and the steering column cover. Place the sticker on the steering wheel when the steering wheel is straight. When you test-drive the vehicle, you can read how many millimeters the steering wheel is off-center. NOTE: If the vehicle is pulling, repairing the pull may correct the steering wheel offset. Page 8084 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 8792 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. Page 2344 EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 1800 Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box Page 4528 Diodes How to Identify Wiring Color-Coded Insulation Wire Color Page 6388 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. Page 5477 116. PGM-FI Main Relay And A/T Reverse Relay (CVT) ECM/PCM Terminal Values Engine Control Module: Testing and Inspection ECM/PCM Terminal Values ECM/PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector A (32P) Part 1 Page 4933 Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Testing and Inspection PGM-FI Main Relay Test PGM-FI Main Relay Test Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No.3 and No.4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals when power is disconnected. Page 3048 ECU Module Kit: P/N 06060-PHM-305, H/C 6912901 WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION Operation Number: 118121 Flat Rate Time: 0.8 hour Failed Part: P/N 1K100-PHM-010 H/C 6377170 Defect Code: 5AG Contention Code: L43 Template ID: 01-102A Skill Level: Repair Technician Disclaimer Repair Procedure 1. Write down the radio station presets. 2. Make sure the ignition switch is off, then disconnect the negative cable from the under-hood 12 V battery. 3. Remove the cargo floor mat and the cargo box (see page 20-43 of the 2000 Insight Service Manual). 4. Remove the battery module switch cover, then remove the locking cover from the switch. 5. Turn off the battery module switch. Reinstall the locking cover on the switch, and remove the 5 mm bolt on the side of the switch. 6. Wait at least 5 minutes for the capacitors in the system to discharge. Page 9944 Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution diagram set to get a more detailed picture of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Gearshift Mechanism Replacement Shifter M/T: Service and Repair Gearshift Mechanism Replacement Gearshift Mechanism Replacement NOTE: IMA system wires are located in this area. Make sure you read the Service Precautions in the IMA system section before performing repairs or service. 1. Turn the battery module switch OFF, and measure the voltage. 2. Repair or replace the gearshift mechanism components as needed. Page 6792 Steering Control Module: Service and Repair EPS Control Unit Removal/Installation 1. Write down the frequencies for the radio preset buttons. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. 2. Remove the right kick panel. 3. Remove the EPS control unit and the power relay. 4. Disconnect the EPS control unit connectors and power relay connector. 5. Install the EPS control unit in the reverse order of removal. 6. Reconnect the battery cable and do the following: 1. Power window control unit reset procedure. 2. Reset the radio station presets. 3. Set the clock. Page 9990 SRS - Component Location Index Page 5405 116. PGM-FI Main Relay And A/T Reverse Relay (CVT) Page 7492 98. Blower Motor High Relay Page 7909 1991-93 Accord 5-door EX with factory-installed keyless entry or dealer-installed security system Programming the Transmitter The transmitter is not programmable. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. To order a transmitter, you need the vehicle's VIN, the code number from the power door lock control unit, and the ignition key code number. The power door lock code number is a five-digit number etched into the plastic case of the control unit (mounted under the driver's seat). The ignition key code number is a four-digit number stamped on the metal shank of all five original keys delivered with the car. Replacement transmitters are manufactured to match the code of the keyless entry system. The new ignition key is cut to match the vehicle's ignition switch, front door locks, tailgate lock, and glove compartment lock. To order this transmitter, use the controlled parts ordering screen on the iN system. The transmitters are manufactured in Japan; delivery takes 4 to 6 weeks. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery is not replaceable. 91-93 Accord 5-Door LX 1991-93 Accord 5-door LX with dealer-installed security system Programming the Transmitter This transmitter is not programmable. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered directly from Kenwood USA only by authorized Honda dealers. Send a completed order form (copy it from the Accessory Replacement Parts section of the Dealer Parts Price List) along with a dealer check for $30.00 (payable to Kenwood U.S.A. Corp.) to this address: Kenwood Service Corp. P.O. Box 22745 Long Beach, CA 90501-5745 Page 9322 All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416 etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector or by a capital letter (A, B, C etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Connector Views that shows the connector terminals wire colors connector cavity numbers and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints shown on diagram [8] . Except for the DLC (data link connector) disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554 for example means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Page 10344 Example of Customer Letter April 2000 Product Update: Insight Radio Reception Dear Insight Owner: We have sent you this letter to notify you of a potential problem with your Insight and what you need to do to have it repaired. What is the problem? If you are listening to an AM radio station, you may hear static when you use the rear window wiper. This is caused by inadequate grounding of the rear window wiper motor. What should you do? Call your local Honda dealer and make an appointment to have your Insight updated. The dealer will add a ground to the rear window wiper motor. This update will be done free of charge. Please plan to leave your car at the dealer for half a day to allow them flexibility in scheduling. What to do if you feel this notice is in error. Our records show that you are the current owner or lessee of a 2000 Insight involved in this update. If this is not the case, or the name/address information is incorrect, please fill out and return the enclosed, postage-paid Information Change Card. This will help us update our records. If you have questions. If you have any questions about this notice, or need assistance with contacting a Honda dealer, please call the Honda Consumer Affairs Department at (800)999-1009. Thank you for your cooperation. Disclaimer Page 9262 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 8239 Hatch Opener - Circuit Diagram Service and Repair Oil Pressure Switch (For Fuel Pump): Service and Repair VTEC Oil Pressure Switch Replacement 1. Disconnect the VTEC oil pressure switch connector, then remove the VTEC oil pressure switch (A). 2. Install the VTEC oil pressure switch using a new O-ring (B). Page 616 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: Testing and Inspection Cranking Signal: Testing and Inspection Starter Switch Signal Circuit Troubleshooting 1. Measure voltage between ECM connector terminals A24 and B20 with the ignition switch in the start position (III) and the clutch pedal pressed. Is there battery voltage? YES - The starter switch signal is OK. NO - Go to step 2. 2. Inspect the No.9 (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box. Is the fuse OK ? YES - Repair open in the wire between the ECM (A24) and the No.9 (7.5 A) fuse. NO - Repair short in the wire between the ECM (A24) and the No.9 (7.5 A) fuse or the PGM-FI main relay. Replace the No.9 (7.5 A) fuse. Page 2094 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. Page 5096 11. Middle of Engine Page 4799 Fuel Supply Line: Testing and Inspection Fuel Line Inspection Recall - Emissions/ECM Replacement Technical Service Bulletin # 02-081 Date: 021217 Recall - Emissions/ECM Replacement 02-081 December 17, 2002 Applies To: 2000 Insight - ALL 2001 Insight with M/T - ALL Emissions Recall: Insight ECM BACKGROUND The ECM does not correctly identify all malfunctions of the air/fuel ratio sensor (sensor 1). Because of this, the vehicle does not meet state and federal emissions regulations. CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION All owners of affected vehicles will be mailed a notification of this campaign. The customer notification letter is shown in this service bulletin. CORRECTIVE ACTION Replace the ECM. After you replace the ECM, reinitialize the immobilizer system, and do the idle learn procedure. PARTS INFORMATION WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION Operation Number: 122124 Flat Rate Time: 1.0 hour Failed Part: P/N 37820-PHM-A01 H/C 6344626 Defect Code: 5BL Contention Code: L78 Skill Level: Repair Technician REPAIR PROCEDURE NOTE: Make sure you have all of your customer's keys. 1. Carefully remove the passenger's door sill trim. If you break any of the trim clips, replace them (P/N 91560-S06-003, H/C 6353502). Page 6447 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Page 975 Solar Sensor: Service and Repair Sunlight Sensor Replacement 1. Remove the sunlight sensor from the dashboard, then disconnect the 2P connector. Be careful not to damage the sensor or the dashboard. 2. Install the sensor in the reverse order of removal. Page 5795 Wire Color Coding Distinct Of Circuit By Wire Base Color All wires have color-coded insulation. Wires belonging to a system's main harness will have a single color. Wires belonging to a system's sub-circuits will have a colored stripe. Striped wires use the codes found in the chart to show wire size and colors. Abbreviations are used to indicate wire color within a circuit diagram. Wire Color Abbreviations The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics: WHT................................... White YEL................................... Yellow BLK................................... Black BLU................................... Blue GRN................................... Green RED................................... Red ORN................................... Orange PNK................................... Pink BRN................................... Brown GRY................................... Gray PUR................................... Purple LT BLU................................... Light Blue LT GRN................................... Light Green The wire insulation has one color or one color with another color stripe. The second color is the stripe. How to Identify Connector Terminals How to Identify Connector Terminals Page 8078 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. Page 9792 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: Page 7569 Evaporator Temperature Sensor / Switch: Description and Operation Evaporator Temperature Sensor The evaporator temperature sensor is located on the evaporator housing. It the temperature at the evaporator gets too cold, the evaporator temperature sensor sends a signal to the climate control unit to turn off the A/C compressor clutch. This prevents condensation from freezing on the evaporator fins and blocking air delivery into the passenger compartment. Page 7582 97. A/C Pressure Switch Page 2484 Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Service and Repair ECT Sensor Replacement 1. Disconnect the ECT sensor connector, then remove the ECT sensor (A). 2. Install the ECT sensor using a new O-ring (B). Page 9165 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: - Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest OHMS" range. Page 1105 All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416 etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector or by a capital letter (A, B, C etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Connector Views that shows the connector terminals wire colors connector cavity numbers and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints shown on diagram [8] . Except for the DLC (data link connector) disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554 for example means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Page 8073 All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416 etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector or by a capital letter (A, B, C etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Connector Views that shows the connector terminals wire colors connector cavity numbers and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints shown on diagram [8] . Except for the DLC (data link connector) disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554 for example means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Page 7054 4. Remove the hub cap (A), raise the stake (B), and remove the spindle nut (C). 5. Remove the brake drum (A), and remove the hub bearing unit (B) from the spindle. If the brake drum has stuck to the hub bearing unit, pull them out together. Do not tap on the aluminum brake drum. 6. If the hub bearing unit has been removed together with the brake drum, separate these by placing the brake drum on a flat surface, and lightly tapping the hub flange (A) with a plastic hammer. 7. Install the hub bearing unit in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - Use a new spindle nut on reassembly. - Before installing the new spindle nut, apply a small amount of engine oil to the seating surface of the nut. After tightening, use a drift to stake the spindle nut shoulder against the spindle. - Tighten all mounting hardware to the specified torque values. - Before installing the brake drum, clean the mating surface of the hub and the inside of the brake drum, and apply grease (Dow Corning Molykote M77) to the inside circumference (A) of the center hole edge of the brake drum. Do not contaminate the brake drum sliding surface with grease. - Use a new hub cap on reassembly. - Before installing the wheel, clean the mating surface of the brake disc and the inside of the wheel. Page 9819 Wire Color Coding Distinct Of Circuit By Wire Base Color All wires have color-coded insulation. Wires belonging to a system's main harness will have a single color. Wires belonging to a system's sub-circuits will have a colored stripe. Striped wires use the codes found in the chart to show wire size and colors. Abbreviations are used to indicate wire color within a circuit diagram. Wire Color Abbreviations The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics: WHT................................... White YEL................................... Yellow BLK................................... Black BLU................................... Blue GRN................................... Green RED................................... Red ORN................................... Orange PNK................................... Pink BRN................................... Brown GRY................................... Gray PUR................................... Purple LT BLU................................... Light Blue LT GRN................................... Light Green The wire insulation has one color or one color with another color stripe. The second color is the stripe. How to Identify Connector Terminals How to Identify Connector Terminals Diagram Information and Instructions Fuel Pump Relay: Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System Terminal Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown below is #6. Page 431 PARTS INFORMATION Engine Control Module: P/N 06380-PHM-A00, H/C 6441117 WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Carefully remove the passenger's side door sill trim. 2. Remove the two carpet hold-down clips on the door sill. 3. Remove the carpet hold-down clip in the passenger's footwell under the glove box. Pull back the carpet. 4. Remove the ECM cover mounting nuts. 5. Pivot the lower edge of the ECM cover off the mounting studs. Lift the upper edge of the cover off the mounting studs, then pull the cover down and back so it clears the evaporator drain tube. 6. Remove the two bolts mounting the ECM to the cover. Disconnect the ECM connectors. 7. Install the new ECM in the reverse order of removal. 8. Reinstall the carpet and the door sill trim. Service and Repair Front Door Window Glass Weatherstrip: Service and Repair Door Glass Outer Weatherstrip Replacement NOTE: - Put on gloves to protect your hands. - Take care not to scratch the door and molding. 1. Remove these items: - Door sash outer trim - Power mirror 2. Starting at the rear, pry the door glass outer weatherstrip (A) up, and detach the clips (B) 3. Install the weatherstrip in the reverse order of removal, and replace any damaged clips. Page 3317 Fuel Pump Relay: Testing and Inspection PGM-FI Main Relay Test PGM-FI Main Relay Test Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No.3 and No.4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals when power is disconnected. Page 3875 First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 740 Heated Glass Element Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relay Test Normally-open type A: 1. Turn the battery module switch OFF, and measure the voltage. 2. Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is disconnected. A/C compressor clutch relay - Air fuel ratio sensor relay - Condenser fan relay - Daytime running lights relay (Canada) - Headlight relay 1 - Headlight relay 2 - High speed battery module fan control relay - High speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - High voltage conductor control relay - Horn relay - Ignition hold relay - Low speed battery module fan control relay - Low speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - Power window relay - Radiator fan relay - Rear window defogger relay - Reverse relay - Starter cut relay Page 5442 19. Verify that the shift cable end (A) is properly installed on the mounting stud (B). 20. If improperly installed, remove the shift cable from the shift cable bracket base, and reinstall the shift cable. Do not install the shift cable end on the mounting stud while the shift cable is on the shift cable bracket base. 21. Install and tighten the nut. 22. Remove the 6.0 mm (0.24 inch) pin that was installed to hold the shift lever. 23. Move the shift lever to each position, and verify that the A/T gear position indicator follows the transmission range switch. 24. Allow the wheels to rotate freely. 25. Start the engine, and check the shift lever operation in all gears. 26. Reinstall the front console. Page 3708 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 5055 Throttle Position Sensor: Description and Operation Throttle Position (TP) Sensor The TP sensor is a potentiometer connected to the throttle valve shaft. As the throttle position changes, the sensor varies the signal voltage to the ECM. The TP sensor is not replaceable apart from the throttle body. Page 7766 Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution diagram set to get a more detailed picture of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Page 3185 EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 1741 Engine Oil: Service and Repair Replacement NOTE: Under normal conditions, the oil filter should be replaced at every other oil change. Under severe conditions, the oil filter should be replaced at each oil change. Change interval Every 7,500 miles (12,000 km or 12 months (Normal conditions) Every 3,500 miles (6,000 km) or 6 months (Severe conditions) 1. Warm up the engine. 2. Remove the right rear splash shield. 3. Remove the drain bolt (A), and drain the engine oil. 4. Reinstall the drain bolt with a new washer (B). 5. Refill with the recommended oil. Capacity 2.3 L (2.4 US qt.) at oil change. 2.5 L (2.6 US qt.) at oil change including filter. 3.0 L (3.2 US qt.) after engine overhaul. 6. Run the engine for more than three minutes, then check for oil leakage. Page 9665 Relay And Control Unit Locations - Dashboard Page 2314 67. VTEC Oil Pressure Switch Page 9413 Connectors - "C" Page 7903 Page 3332 Wire Color Abbreviations Page 375 DTC P0158 thru P0400 Page 7075 Wheels: Testing and Inspection Wheel Runout Inspection 1. Raise the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper location. 2. Check for a bent or deformed wheel. 3. Set up the dial gauge as shown, and measure the axial runout by turning the wheel. Wheel axial runout: Standard: Front/rear: 0 - 0.7 mm (0 - 0.03 inch) Service limit: Front/rear: 1.5 mm (0.06 inch) 4. Reset the dial gauge to the position shown, and measure the radial runout. Wheel radial runout: Standard: Front/rear: 0 - 0.7 mm (0 - 0.03 inch) Service limit: Front/rear: 1.5 mm (0.06 inch) 5. If the wheel runout is out of specification, check the wheel bearing end play. 6. If the bearing end play is within the specification but the wheel runout is more than the service limit, replace the wheel. Page 3241 Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Diagnostic Aids Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Locations Fuel Shut-off Solenoid Relay: Locations Relay And Control Unit Location - Engine Compartment Page 6995 125. EPS Torque Sensor Page 9865 - Taillight relay Page 8303 EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 1584 NOTE: You must calibrate the gauge with the same weight in the vehicle that you will use for the test-drive. If you plan to have an assistant help you during the test-drive, calibrate the gauge while both of you are sitting in the vehicle. The steering wheel offset gauge is a sticker that attaches to the steering wheel and the steering column cover. Place the sticker on the steering wheel when the steering wheel is straight. When you test-drive the vehicle, you can read how many millimeters the steering wheel is off-center. NOTE: If the vehicle is pulling, repairing the pull may correct the steering wheel offset. Page 9941 Cavity Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity / terminal shown is # 6. Circuit Schematics Page 708 - Taillight relay Page 7784 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 6044 Neutral Safety Switch: Testing and Inspection Neutral Position Switch Signal Circuit Troubleshooting M/T model 1. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 2. Shift the transmission to 1st gear. 3. Measure voltage between ECM connector terminals B16 and B20. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 4. NO - Go to step 6. 4. Shift the transmission to neutral position. 5. Measure voltage between ECM connector terminals B16 and B20. Is voltage less than 1.0 V? YES - The neutral position switch signal is OK. NO - Go to step 12. 6. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 7. Disconnect the neutral position switch 2P connector. 8. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). Page 26 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. Testing and Inspection Mini ISO Relay: Testing and Inspection Normally-Open Type A Fuel Cut/PGM-FI Main - Relay 1. Turn the battery module switch OFF, and measure the voltage. 2. Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No.3 and No.4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals when power is disconnected. Normally-Open Type B EPS Motor Relay 1. Turn the battery module switch OFF, and measure the voltage. 2. Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No.1 and No.3 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No.2 and No.4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No.1 and No.3 terminals when power is disconnected. Page 10077 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. Page 9432 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: Page 1007 Wire Color Coding Distinct Of Circuit By Wire Base Color All wires have color-coded insulation. Wires belonging to a system's main harness will have a single color. Wires belonging to a system's sub-circuits will have a colored stripe. Striped wires use the codes found in the chart to show wire size and colors. Abbreviations are used to indicate wire color within a circuit diagram. Wire Color Abbreviations The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics: WHT................................... White YEL................................... Yellow BLK................................... Black BLU................................... Blue GRN................................... Green RED................................... Red ORN................................... Orange PNK................................... Pink BRN................................... Brown GRY................................... Gray PUR................................... Purple LT BLU................................... Light Blue LT GRN................................... Light Green The wire insulation has one color or one color with another color stripe. The second color is the stripe. How to Identify Connector Terminals How to Identify Connector Terminals Page 1456 125. EPS Torque Sensor Page 6899 48. Left Side of Steering Column Page 3683 Diodes How to Identify Wiring Color-Coded Insulation Wire Color Page 7467 5. After checking and repairing leaks, the system must be evacuated. Page 7505 Climate Control - Component Location Index Page 9591 Diodes How to Identify Wiring Color-Coded Insulation Wire Color Locations 7. Front of Engine Page 639 114. MPI Module Fan Control Relay, High Speed; High Voltage Contactor Relay; Ignition Hold Relay; And MPI Module Fan Control Relay, Low Speed Page 4681 Wires Page 8756 Audible Warning Device: Testing and Inspection 1. Remove the gauge assembly. 2. Disconnect the gauge assembly 30P connector A and 22P connector B. 3. Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are making good contact. - If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system. - If the terminals are OK, go to step 4. 4. With the connectors still disconnected, make these input tests at the connector. - If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system. - If all the input tests prove OK, go to step 5. Page 8370 In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locater) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: - Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. Page 6480 Cavity Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity / terminal shown is # 6. Circuit Schematics Page 2641 4. Flip the battery module switch to OFF, then reinstall the locking cover. 5. Wait at least 5 minutes for the capacitors in the system to discharge. 6. Remove the rear clips from the middle bulkhead carpet. 7. Remove the under-cover (two bolts, two clips, and three screw clips). 8. Remove the IPU (intelligent power unit) lid (six Torx bolts and 17 hex bolts). Page 9739 All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416 etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector or by a capital letter (A, B, C etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Connector Views that shows the connector terminals wire colors connector cavity numbers and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints shown on diagram [8] . Except for the DLC (data link connector) disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554 for example means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Page 15 Diodes How to Identify Wiring Color-Coded Insulation Wire Color Page 8458 1997-01 CR-V with dealer-installed security system 1996-97 del Sol with dealer-installed security system 1996-98 Odyssey with dealer-installed security system *1999-04 Odyssey LX with dealer-installed keyless entry system or security system* 1996-01 Prelude with dealer-installed security system *2000-04 S2000 with dealer-installed security system 2000-04 Insight with dealer-installed security system 2003-04 Pilot LX with dealer-installed keyless entry system or security system* Programming the Transmitter NOTES: ^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased. ^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the programming mode. ^ You must complete steps 1-6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from exiting the programming mode. 1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter can be used for this step.) 3. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 4. Repeat steps 1, 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2. 5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode. 7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted the transmitter's code. 8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda using normal parts ordering procedures. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery. Page 1904 Malfunction Indicator Lamp: Testing and Inspection MIL Circuit Troubleshooting 1. Connect an OBD II scan tool/Honda PGM Tester. 2. Turn the ignition switch ON (II) and read the OBD II scan tool/Honda PGM Tester. Does the OBD II scan tool/Honda PGM Tester communicate with the ECM? YES - Go to step 3. NO - Go to troubleshooting "DLC Circuit Troubleshooting". 3. Check the OBD II scan tool/Honda PGM Tester for DTCs Are any DTCs indicated? YES - Go to the DTC Troubleshooting Index. See: Powertrain Management/Computers and Control Systems/Testing and Inspection/Diagnostic Trouble Code Descriptions NO - Go to step 4. 4. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 5. Turn the ignition switch ON (II) and watch the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL). Does the MIL come on and stay on for more than 20 seconds after turning the ignition switch ON (II)? YES - If the MIL always comes on and stays on, go to step 61. But if the MIL sometimes works normally, first check for these problems. An intermittent short in the wire between the ECM (B17) and the Data Link Connector (DLC). - An intermittent short in the wire between the ECM (A18) and the gauge assembly. NO - If the MIL is always off, go to step 6. But if the MIL sometimes works normally, first check for these problems. A loose No.6 (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box. - A loose No.1 (50 A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box. - A loose No.7 (15 A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box. - A loose No.2 (15 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box. - A poor connection at ECM terminal A18. - An intermittent open in the GRN/ORN wire between the ECM (A18) and the gauge assembly. - An intermittent short in the wire between the ECM (C19) and the manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor. - An intermittent short in the wire between the ECM (C28) and the throttle position (TP) sensor, brake booster pressure sensor, fuel tank pressure (FTP) sensor, exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) valve position sensor. - An intermittent short in the wire between the ECM (B6) and the TCM. 6. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 7. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). Is the low oil pressure light on? YES - Go to step 10. NO - Go to step 8. 8. Inspect the No.6 (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box. Is the fuse OK? YES - Go to step 9. NO - Repair short in the wire between the No.6 (7.5 A) fuse and the gauge assembly. Also replace the No.6 (7.5 A) fuse. 9. Inspect the No.1 (50 A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box. Is the fuse OK? YES - Repair open in the wire between the No.1 (50 A) fuse and the gauge assembly. If the wires are OK, test the ignition switch. Page 4132 ^ If you still cannot hear the solenoid valve click or feel it tap when activated, continue with normal troubleshooting. 15. Insight only: Disconnect the PGM Tester, and return the vehicle to your customer. 16. All other affected models: Use the PGM Tester to run the EVAP system function test (see S/B 02-007, EVAP System Function Testing and Diagnostics With the PGM Tester). ^ If the EVAP system passes the function test, disconnect the PGM Tester, and return the vehicle to your customer. ^ If the EVAP system fails the function test, continue with normal troubleshooting. Disclaimer Diagram Information and Instructions Key Reminder Switch: Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System Terminal Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown below is #6. Page 4080 Oxygen Sensor: Connector Locations 16. Rear of Engine 127. Below Rear of Engine Page 3670 Cylinder Identification Sensor: Description and Operation TDC Sensor 1/2 CKP Sensor TDC (Top Dead Center) 1/2 and CKP (Crankshaft Position) Sensors The TDC 1 and TDC 2 sensors detect the position of the No.1 cylinder as a reference for sequential fuel injection to each cylinder. The CKP sensor detects engine speed and determines ignition timing and timing for fuel injection of each cylinder. Page 751 - Taillight relay Page 1996 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. Page 235 39. Upper Left Kick Panel Area Locations Idle Control System - Component Location Index Page 6456 Relay Box: Connector Views 174. Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box Part 1 Page 6635 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 8243 Power Trunk / Liftgate Lock Actuator: Service and Repair Hatch Latch and Hatch Opener Actuator Replacement NOTE: - Put on gloves to protect your hands. - Take care not to scratch the body. - Take care not to bend the cylinder rod. 1. Remove the rear trim panel and cargo box. 2. Remove the hatch latch and hatch opener actuator as shown. 3. Install the hatch latch and hatch opener actuator in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - Make sure the connectors are plugged in properly and the cylinder rod is connected properly. - Make sure the hatch opens properly and locks securely. Page 2278 Wire Color Abbreviations Page 9560 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 7293 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. Page 9319 Wire Color Coding Distinct Of Circuit By Wire Base Color All wires have color-coded insulation. Wires belonging to a system's main harness will have a single color. Wires belonging to a system's sub-circuits will have a colored stripe. Striped wires use the codes found in the chart to show wire size and colors. Abbreviations are used to indicate wire color within a circuit diagram. Wire Color Abbreviations The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics: WHT................................... White YEL................................... Yellow BLK................................... Black BLU................................... Blue GRN................................... Green RED................................... Red ORN................................... Orange PNK................................... Pink BRN................................... Brown GRY................................... Gray PUR................................... Purple LT BLU................................... Light Blue LT GRN................................... Light Green The wire insulation has one color or one color with another color stripe. The second color is the stripe. How to Identify Connector Terminals How to Identify Connector Terminals Page 352 DISCLAIMER Page 2725 Page 7504 30. Left Front Side of Engine Compartment Page 5437 15. If necessary, push the shift cable (A) until it stops, then release it. Pull the shift cable back one step so that the shift position is in the [R]. Do not push and pull the shift cable by holding the shift cable guide (B). 16. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 17. Insert a 6.0 mm (0.24 inch) pin (A) through the positioning hole (B) on the shift lever bracket base and into the positioning hole (C) on the shift lever. The shift lever is secured in the [R] position. 18. Align the socket holder (A) on the shift cable (B) with the slot in the bracket base (C), then slide the holder into the base. Install the shift cable end (D) over the mounting stud (E) by aligning its square hole (F) with the square fitting (G) at the bottom of the stud. Rotate the holder a quarter turn to secure the shift cable. Do not install the shift cable by twisting the shift cable guide (H). Page 3962 87. IAC Valve Page 9772 Wires Hybrid System - IMA Indicator ON/DTC's P1447/P1449 Battery Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins Hybrid System - IMA Indicator ON/DTC's P1447/P1449 04-028 March 16, 2011 Applies To: 2000-04 Insight - ALL IMA System Indicator On With IMA DTC 77 (P1447) or DTC 78 (P1449) (Supersedes 04-028, dated April 30, 2010, to revise the information marked by the black bars and asterisks) *REVISION SUMMARY Under WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION, some operation number and flat rate time information was changed.* PROBLEM The IMA system indicator comes on and IMA DTC 77 (P1447) (battery module deterioration) or DTC 78 (P1449) (battery module deterioration) is set. CORRECTIVE ACTION Replace the battery module. Inspect the motor control module (MCM) and the battery condition monitor (BCM) to determine if they also need to be replaced. PARTS INFORMATION WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION The normal warranty applies. NOTE: IMA components (battery module, battery condition monitor, and motor control module) are covered under warranty for 8 years or 80,000 miles, whichever comes first. Page 982 Battery Current Sensor: Diagrams 78. Battery Current Sensor 92. MPI Module Current Sensor Page 6237 Cavity Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity / terminal shown is # 6. Circuit Schematics Page 7790 - If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system. - If all the input tests prove OK, go to step 5. 5. Connect the connectors to the gauge assembly and make these input tests at the connector. - If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system. - If all the input tests prove OK, replace the printed circuit board in the gauge assembly. Hybrid System - IMA Indicator ON/DTC's P1447/P1449 Hybrid Power Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins Hybrid System - IMA Indicator ON/DTC's P1447/P1449 04-028 March 16, 2011 Applies To: 2000-04 Insight - ALL IMA System Indicator On With IMA DTC 77 (P1447) or DTC 78 (P1449) (Supersedes 04-028, dated April 30, 2010, to revise the information marked by the black bars and asterisks) *REVISION SUMMARY Under WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION, some operation number and flat rate time information was changed.* PROBLEM The IMA system indicator comes on and IMA DTC 77 (P1447) (battery module deterioration) or DTC 78 (P1449) (battery module deterioration) is set. CORRECTIVE ACTION Replace the battery module. Inspect the motor control module (MCM) and the battery condition monitor (BCM) to determine if they also need to be replaced. PARTS INFORMATION WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION The normal warranty applies. NOTE: IMA components (battery module, battery condition monitor, and motor control module) are covered under warranty for 8 years or 80,000 miles, whichever comes first. Diagram Information and Instructions Cargo Lamp: Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System Terminal Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown below is #6. Page 1331 9. Front of Engine Page 1388 Crankshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation Camshaft Position (CMP) A and B (Top Dead Center (TDC) 1 and 2), and Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensors The CMPA (TDC 1) and CMPB (TDC 2) sensors detect the position of the No.1 cylinder as a reference for sequential fuel injection to each cylinder. The CKP sensor detects engine speed and determines ignition timing and timing for fuel injection of each cylinder. Page 7351 7. Check for continuity between the No. 10 terminal of heater control panel connector A (12P) and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Check for loose wires or poor connections at heater control panel connector A (12P). If the connections are good, substitute a known-good heater control panel, and recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away, replace the original heater control panel. NO - Check for an open in the wire between the heater control panel and body ground. If the wire is OK, check for poor ground at G404. Page 9069 Low Fuel Lamp/Indicator: Testing and Inspection Low Fuel Indicator Test 1. Do the fuel gauge sending unit test. - If the system is OK, go to step 2. - If the system has a malfunction, replace it. 2. Turn the ignition switch ON (II) with the float at the E (EMPTY) position. - If the low fuel indicator light is on, go to step 3. - If the low fuel indicator light is not on, refer to the Gauges Circuit Diagram and check the circuit. 3. Lift the float above LOW position. - If the low fuel indicator light goes off, the system is OK. - If the low fuel indicator light is still on, refer to Gauges Circuit Diagram and check the circuit. Page 4840 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. Page 4862 All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416 etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector or by a capital letter (A, B, C etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Connector Views that shows the connector terminals wire colors connector cavity numbers and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints shown on diagram [8] . Except for the DLC (data link connector) disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554 for example means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Page 9431 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 5260 Front Wheel Bearing: Service and Repair Front Knuckle/Hub/Hub Bearing Unit Replacement Special Tools Required Hub assembly driver attachment 07GAF-SD40200 - Ball joint remover, 28 mm 07MAC-SL00200 - Hub dis/assembly tool 07965-SA70100 - Support base 07965-SD90100 NOTICE: To avoid damage, do not strike aluminum parts with a metal hammer. If necessary, tap gently with a plastic tipped hammer. NOTE: Nuts and bolts with the [star] mark are special corrosion-resistant Dacro fasteners. Use the same type if replacement is necessary. 1. Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper location. Page 10199 Power Window Switch: Testing and Inspection Passenger's Window Switch Test/Replacement Passenger's Window Switch Test/Replacement 1. Remove the passenger's door panel. 2. Disconnect the 5P connector (A) from the passenger's power window switch (B). 3. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table. 4. If the continuity is not as specified, remove the two screws and replace the switch. Locations 7. Front of Engine Page 1127 46. Ignition Key Switch/Key Light M/T, CVT Page 2699 12. Remove the mounting bolts for the battery condition monitor (BCM) module and the motor control module (MCM). Disconnect the electrical connectors, then remove the two modules. 13. Install the new BCM and the new MCM. Make sure all electrical connectors are secure. 14. Reinstall the IPU lid. 15. Remove the locking cover from the battery module switch, install the 5 mm bolt, turn the switch on, and reinstall the locking cover. 16. Reinstall the remaining parts in the reverse order of removal. 17. Reconnect the negative cable to the 12-volt battery in the engine compartment. 18. Remove the EPS fuse from the under-hood fusel relay box. 19. With the transmission in neutral and the clutch released, run the engine at 3,500 rpm until the battery level shows at least 50 percent charge. 20. Turn off the engine, then reinstall the EPS fuse. 21. Enter the radio station presets, and set the clock. Disclaimer Page 6441 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. Page 5177 Ignition System - Component Location Index Page 255 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: - Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest OHMS" range. Page 1651 6. If you feel too much or too little drag, loosen the locknut (A), and turn the adjusting screw (B) until the drag on the feeler gauge is correct. 7. Tighten the locknut and recheck the clearance. Repeat the adjustment, if necessary. 8. Rotate the crankshaft 240° clockwise (camshaft sprocket turn 120°). The second TDC mark (A) should be aligned with the cylinder head surface. 9. Check and, if necessary, adjust the valve clearance on No. 3 cylinder. 10. Rotate the crankshaft 240° clockwise (camshaft sprocket turn 120°). The third TDC mark should be aligned with the cylinder head surface. 11. Check and, if necessary, adjust the valve clearance on No. 2 cylinder. 12. Install the cylinder head cover. Diagram Information and Instructions Relay Box: Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System Terminal Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown below is #6. Page 8034 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 9618 5. Door Switch, Driver's Or Passenger's Page 3432 83. ELD Unit Service and Repair Brake Bleeding: Service and Repair Brake System Bleeding NOTE: ^ Do not reuse the drained fluid. ^ Always use Honda DOT 3 Brake Fluid. Using a non-Honda brake fluid can cause corrosion and decrease the life of the system. ^ Make sure no dirt or other foreign matter is allowed to contaminate the brake fluid. ^ Do not spill brake fluid on the vehicle, it may damage the paint; if brake fluid does contact the paint, wash it off immediately with water. ^ The reservoir on the master cylinder must be at the MAX (upper) level mark at the start of the bleeding procedure and checked after bleeding each brake caliper or wheel cylinder. Add fluid as required. 1. Make sure the brake fluid level in the reservoir is at the MAX (upper) level line (A). 2. Have someone slowly pump the brake pedal several times, then apply steady pressure. 3. Starting at the left-front, loosen the brake bleed screw to allow air to escape from the system. Then tighten the bleed screw securely. 4. Repeat the procedure for each wheel in the sequence shown until air bubbles no longer appear in the fluid. Page 2650 Using the SYMPTOM TROUBLESHOOTING INDEX or the DTC INDEX in the applicable service manual, follow the diagnostic procedure: ^ Refer to the appropriate section in the service manual, or ^ From the Interactive Network (iN) main menu: - Select SERVICE. - Select ISIS (Service Publications). - Select SEARCH BY VEHICLE. - Enter the model and the model year. - Enter a keyword: IMA or BATTERY - Select the appropriate Service Bulletin, ServiceNews article, or DTC Troubleshooting from the list. 2. Repair the vehicle according to your diagnosis: ^ If the problem is gone, return the vehicle to the customer. ^ If the problem is still there or your diagnosis leads you to replace the IMA battery, go to step 3. 3. Replace the IMA battery with a remanufactured one: ^ For vehicle service contract (VSC) and certified used car (CUC) repairs, call 800-999-5901. ^ For goodwill repairs, contact your dealership's district parts and service manager (DPSM). * ^ For 2003-08 Civic Hybrids and 2005-07 Accord Hybrids, refer to Service Bulletin 10-083, IMA Battery Software and Hardware Updates.* IMA BATTERY ORDERING Service Technician: NOTE: ^ Use the iN to order a remanufactured IMA battery. Do not call the Remanufactured Parts Dealer Service Group. ^ A Tech Line reference number is not required to submit the order. Check Yes, and enter the Reference Number only when there is a pre-existing Tech Line contact. 1. Go to an iN workstation. 2. From the iN main menu, select SERVICE, select Remanufactured Parts, then select IMA Battery Order. Performance Test Refrigerant: Testing and Inspection Performance Test CAUTION: - Air conditioning refrigerant or lubricant vapor can irritate your eyes, nose, or throat. - Be careful when connecting service equipment. - Do not breathe refrigerant or vapor. WARNING: - Compressed air mixed R-134a forms a combustible vapor. - The vapor can burn or explode causing serious injury. - Never use compressed air to pressure test R-134a service equipment or vehicle air conditioning systems. The performance test will help determine if the air conditioner system is operating within specifications. Use only service equipment that is U.L.-listed and is certified to meet the requirements of SAE J2210 to remove HFC-134a (R-134a) from the air conditioning system. If accidental system discharge occurs, ventilate work area before resuming service. R-134a service equipment or vehicle air conditioning systems should not be pressure tested or leak tested with compressed air. Additional health and safety information may be obtained from the refrigerant and lubricant manufacturers. 1. Connect a R-134a refrigerant recovery/recycling/ charging station to the high-pressure service port and the low-pressure service port, following the equipment manufacturer's instructions. 2. Insert a thermometer in the center air vent. Determine the relative humidity and air temperature. 3. Test conditions : - Avoid direct sunlight. - Open the hood. - Open the front doors. - Set the temperature control dial on MAX COOL, the mode control switch on VENT and the recirculation control switch on RECIRCULATE. - Turn the A/C switch on and the fan switch on MAX. - Run the engine at 1,500 rpm. - No driver or passengers in vehicle. 4. After running the air conditioning for 10 minutes under the above test conditions, read the delivery temperature from the thermometer in the dash vent, the intake temperature near the blower unit behind the glove box and the high and low system pressure from the A/C gauges. A/T - Avoiding Fluid Contamination Fluid - CVT: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Avoiding Fluid Contamination SOURCE: Honda Service News TITLE: Avoiding Comebacks From A/T Contamination APPLIES TO: All models SERVICE TIP: Installing a reman A/T? Here are some important tips to keep in mind to ensure a first-time fix and to avoid any come-backs: - If the vehicle has an ATF cooler, make sure you clean the cooler with the ATF Cooler Cleaner (P/N GHTTTCF6H). See S/B 89-022, ATF Cooler Cleaner, for details. - If the reman A/T kit includes an in-line filter, don't forget to install it. If the vehicle already has an in-line filter from an earlier A/T replacement, then remove the existing filter, and install the new one. - Spray the driveshaft splines with solvent and compressed air before installing them in the reman A/T. If the failed A/T had a speed sensor, make sure it's clean before you install it. Debris from the failed A/T can catch in the driveshaft splines or on the speed sensor and contaminate the reman A/T. - If the reman A/T comes with a heater/cooler, make sure you install the reman A/T with that heater/cooler. Never install the heater/cooler from the failed A/T; you could contaminate the reman A/T. Page 6724 1. Place the vehicle on a commercially available, computerized, four-wheel alignment rack, and record the following measurements. Follow the equipment manufacturer's instructions. NOTE: Enter each reading in decimal degrees. Example 30' = 0.50. 2. If any measurement is out of specification, inspect the front suspension for any damage. Repair any damaged parts before continuing your diagnosis. 3. Determine how the front wheel camber is affecting the pull. Pick the combination of left- and right-front camber that best matches the vehicle you are repairing, then note the camber thrust direction for that combination: NOTE: ^ If the camber of both front wheels is negative, but one wheel is grossly more negative than the other, the camber thrust direction will be opposite the wheel with more negative camber (for example, if the left-front wheel is more negative, the camber thrust direction is right). ^ If the camber of both front wheels is positive, but one wheel is grossly more positive than the other, the camber thrust direction will be the same as the wheel with more positive camber (for example, if the left-front wheel is more positive, the camber thrust direction is left). 4. Determine how the camber needs to be adjusted. 5. Adjust the camber as needed. Front Camber Adjustment, Double Wishbone Suspension Page 9263 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. Page 2600 9. Measure voltage at the junction board terminals. ^ If the reading is 30 V or less, the capacitors are discharged enough for you to continue; go to step 10. ^ If the reading is more than 30 V, there is a problem with the IMA system. Troubleshoot the system using the IMA section of the service manual, then continue with this procedure. 10. Lift out the battery module foam insert. 11. Replace the BCM (2002-04 Insights) or the BCM and the MCM (2000-01 Insights): ^ Remove the mounting bolts. ^ Disconnect the connectors: The BCM has three; the MCM has five. Locations 41. Under Left Side of Dash Page 6725 ^ Loosen the front subframe bolts. See the applicable service manual for more information. NOTE: The front wheels are being viewed from the rear of the vehicle. ^ Depending which way you need to shift the subframe, insert a pry bar between the subframe and body at both the front and rear positions of the subframe. NOTE: Be careful not to damage the vehicle. You could bend and damage the frame and/or body if you apply too much pressure. ^ Press on both pry bars to shift the subframe. It will move only a few millimeters. This should adjust the camber about 0.2-0.5°. ^ While holding the subframe in place, have an assistant torque the subframe bolts to their proper torque. Front Camber Adjustment, Strut Suspension ^ Raise the vehicle, and remove the front tires. ^ Loosen the damper pinch bolts and the flange nuts. ^ Adjust the camber by moving the bottom of the damper within the range of the damper pinch bolt free play. NOTE: Some vehicles have special pinch bolts that allow more adjustment. For more information, refer to the parts catalog. ^ Tighten the damper pinch bolts to the specified torque. ^ Reinstall the front wheels and lower the vehicle. Bounce the front of the vehicle several times to stabilize the suspension. Page 937 5. Behind Middle of Bumper Page 4949 Terminals - "T" Shielding Switches Fuses Page 8212 Wire Color Coding Distinct Of Circuit By Wire Base Color All wires have color-coded insulation. Wires belonging to a system's main harness will have a single color. Wires belonging to a system's sub-circuits will have a colored stripe. Striped wires use the codes found in the chart to show wire size and colors. Abbreviations are used to indicate wire color within a circuit diagram. Wire Color Abbreviations The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics: WHT................................... White YEL................................... Yellow BLK................................... Black BLU................................... Blue GRN................................... Green RED................................... Red ORN................................... Orange PNK................................... Pink BRN................................... Brown GRY................................... Gray PUR................................... Purple LT BLU................................... Light Blue LT GRN................................... Light Green The wire insulation has one color or one color with another color stripe. The second color is the stripe. How to Identify Connector Terminals How to Identify Connector Terminals Locations Parking Brake Warning Switch: Locations Gauges - Component Location Index Page 6910 Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow from power at the top of the diagram to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another for example is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors Page 3195 ECM Inputs and Outputs at Connector A (32P) Part 1 Page 3345 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: - Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest OHMS" range. Page 596 Wires Page 8826 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. Page 3258 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 520 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. Page 4564 18. Middle Rear of Engine 130. Transmission Housing (CVT) Locations 94. Left Side of PCU (PCU Removed) Locations Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor: Locations EVAP System - Component Location Index 128. Right Side of Fuel Tank Page 3772 DTC P2240 thru U0073 Diagrams 110. DRL And Low Beam Cut Relays (Canada) Page 8216 Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution diagram set to get a more detailed picture of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Page 3245 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Diagram Information and Instructions Spot Lamp: Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System Terminal Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown below is #6. Page 4869 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. Page 408 DTC P1861 thru P2238 Page 5266 For instructions on downloading/uploading the immobilizer transponder codes, refer to page 9 of Service Bulletin 00-049, Immobilizer System (Type 2). 1. Download the immobilizer transponder codes from the ECM to the HDS. 2. Replace the ECM: * ^ Refer to page 11-7 of the 2000-2006 Insight Service Manual,* or ^ Online, enter keyword ECM REP, and select ECM Replacement from the list. 3. Upload the immobilizer transponder codes from the HDS to the new ECM. 4. Center-punch a completion mark below the first character of the engine compartment VIN: 5. For California Residents Only: Fill out a Vehicle Emissions Recall - Proof of Correction certificate, and use Q50 as the recall number. Give the certificate to your customer, and advise him or her to keep it as proof that the product update was completed. Your customer will need to submit the certificate to the DMV only if the DMV requests it. If you need more certificates, use reorder number Y0657. Disclaimer Page 5258 For instructions on downloading/uploading the immobilizer transponder codes, refer to page 9 of Service Bulletin 00-049, Immobilizer System (Type 2). 1. Download the immobilizer transponder codes from the ECM to the HDS. 2. Replace the ECM: * ^ Refer to page 11-7 of the 2000-2006 Insight Service Manual,* or ^ Online, enter keyword ECM REP, and select ECM Replacement from the list. 3. Upload the immobilizer transponder codes from the HDS to the new ECM. 4. Center-punch a completion mark below the first character of the engine compartment VIN: 5. For California Residents Only: Fill out a Vehicle Emissions Recall - Proof of Correction certificate, and use Q50 as the recall number. Give the certificate to your customer, and advise him or her to keep it as proof that the product update was completed. Your customer will need to submit the certificate to the DMV only if the DMV requests it. If you need more certificates, use reorder number Y0657. Disclaimer Page 5196 Shift Interlock Solenoid: Diagrams 186. Inhibitor Solenoid (CVT) 187. Shift Lock Solenoid (CVT) Page 7188 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 9934 Wire Color Abbreviations Page 614 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 602 Cavity Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity / terminal shown is # 6. Circuit Schematics Page 9516 Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution diagram set to get a more detailed picture of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Page 8386 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 6554 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 8019 Diodes How to Identify Wiring Color-Coded Insulation Wire Color Page 4915 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 1823 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. Page 571 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 1059 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Diagrams 185. Idle Stop Switch (CVT) Page 5139 Ignition Hold Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relay Test Normally-open type A: 1. Turn the battery module switch OFF, and measure the voltage. 2. Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is disconnected. A/C compressor clutch relay - Air fuel ratio sensor relay - Condenser fan relay - Daytime running lights relay (Canada) - Headlight relay 1 - Headlight relay 2 - High speed battery module fan control relay - High speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - High voltage conductor control relay - Horn relay - Ignition hold relay - Low speed battery module fan control relay - Low speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - Power window relay - Radiator fan relay - Rear window defogger relay - Reverse relay - Starter cut relay Page 8904 All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416 etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector or by a capital letter (A, B, C etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Connector Views that shows the connector terminals wire colors connector cavity numbers and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints shown on diagram [8] . Except for the DLC (data link connector) disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554 for example means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Locations Headlamp Relay: Locations Relay And Control Unit Location - Engine Compartment Page 3872 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. Page 8054 Page 258 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. Page 9709 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 6458 175. Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box Page 4335 Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Description and Operation PGM-FI Main Relay The PGM-FI main relay contains two separate relays. One is energized whenever the ignition is on which supplies battery voltage to the ECM, power to the fuel injectors, and power for the fuel cut relay. The fuel cut relay is energized to supply power to the fuel pump for 2 seconds when the ignition is switched ON (II), and when the engine is running. Diagrams Page 4839 EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 10129 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Campaign - ECM Update for MIL ON/DTC P0420 Technical Service Bulletin # 07-038 Date: 071107 Campaign - ECM Update for MIL ON/DTC P0420 07-038 November 7, 2007 Applies To: 2000-01 Insight - ALL With M/T Product Update: MIL Comes On With DTC P0420 (Supersedes 07-038, MIL Comes On With DTC P0420, dated June 16, 2007, to update the information marked by the black bars and asterisks) *BACKGROUND The PGM-FI software can misinterpret sensor inputs as a deteriorated three-way catalytic converter. If this happens, the MIL comes on with DTC P0420 CFWC catalyst system efficiency below threshold). CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION Before this service bulletin became a product update (from June 16 thru November 6, 2007), some vehicles were repaired with ECM P/N 37820-PHM-355 or P/N 37820-PHM-326. Owners of these vehicles will receive a notification that their vehicles are already repaired and no further action is needed. All owners of vehicles still needing repair will be sent a notification of this product update. Both customer notifications will include reimbursement information for previously replaced catalytic converters. An example of each customer notification is at the end of this service bulletin. To verify vehicle eligibility, you must check for at least one of these items: ^ The customer has a notification letter. ^ The vehicle is shown as eligible on a VIN status inquiry. In addition, check for a punch mark below the first character of the engine compartment VIN. A punch mark in that location means this product update has already been completed.* CORRECTIVE ACTION Replace the ECM. PARTS INFORMATION *Engine Control Module (2000 Insight): P/N 37820-PHM-505, H/C 8813602 Engine Control Module (2001 Insight): P/N 37820-PHM-506, H/C 8813610* WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION REPAIR PROCEDURE NOTE: Page 5523 5. Fit the rollers (A) onto the spider (B) with their high shoulders facing outward, and note these items: - Reinstall the rollers in their original positions on the spider by aligning the marks (C). - Hold the driveshaft pointed up to prevent the rollers from failing off. 6. Pack the inboard joint with the joint grease included in the new driveshaft set. 7. Fit the inboard joint onto the driveshaft, and note these items: - Reinstall the inboard joint (A) onto the driveshaft (B) by aligning the marks (C) on the inboard joint and the rollers. - Hold the driveshaft so the inboard joint points up to prevent it from falling off. Page 901 Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Description and Operation ECT (Engine Coolant Temperature) Sensor The ECT sensor is a temperature dependent resistor (thermistor). The resistance of the thermistor decreases as the engine coolant temperature increases. Page 4253 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 6312 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 471 ECM/PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector C (31P) Part 1 Page 1207 Hazard Warning Switch: Testing and Inspection Hazard Warning Switch Test/Replacement 1. Remove the instrument panel. 2. Disconnect the 10P connector (A) from the hazard warning switch (B). 3. Remove the two screws from the switch. 4. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table. 5. If the continuity check is not as specified, replace the illumination bulb (B) or the switch. Page 3169 9. Connect the PGM Tester to the data link connector (DLC). 10. Use the PGM Tester to program the customer's immobilizer key codes into the ECM. Verity that all the keys will start the engine. 11. Center-punch a completion mark above the first character (J) of the engine compartment VIN. Disclaimer Page 868 Brake Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch: Adjustments For information regarding the Adjustment of this component and the system that it is a part of, please refer to Brake Pedal Assy; Adjustments. Page 8291 Trunk / Liftgate Switch: Diagnostic Aids Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Page 339 DTC P2240 thru U0073 Page 9444 Number. See: Diagrams/Connector Views/Connector Views By View Number Locations Evaporative Shut Valve: Locations EVAP System - Component Location Index 128. Right Side of Fuel Tank Page 9713 EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 5588 Fluid - M/T: Fluid Type Specifications M/T Fluid Type ........................................................................................................................................ Honda Manual Transmission Fluid (MTF): P/N 08798-9016 If not available you may use 10W-30 or 10W-40 motor oil as a temporary replacement. An SG grade is preferred, but an SH or SJ grade may be used if SG grade is not available. Replace with Honda MTF as soon as it is convenient. Using motor oil can cause stiffer shifting because it does not contain the proper additives. Page 3883 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. Page 8300 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 9208 First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 855 Brake Booster Vacuum Sensor: Description and Operation Brake Booster Pressure Sensor System Diagram The brake booster pressure sensor converts brake booster vacuum into an electrical input to the ECM. Page 6336 Multiple Junction Connector: Diagrams 141. C104 (Junction Connector) 159. C507 (Junction Connector) Page 8259 Trunk / Liftgate Lock Cylinder: Service and Repair Hatch Lock Cylinder Replacement NOTE: - Take care not to scratch the body. - Take care not to bend the cylinder rod. 1. Remove the right side of the rear trim panel 2. Remove the hatch lock cylinder as shown. 3. Install the hatch lock cylinder in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - Make sure the cylinder switch connector is plugged in properly and the cylinder rod is connected properly. - Make sure the hatch opens properly and locks securely. Page 8092 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 6069 16. With the help of an assistant, lift the battery module out of the vehicle, and carefully set it down on a flat surface. 17. Install the new battery module in the reverse order of removal (steps 16, 15, 14, 13, 12, and 11). 18. Install a new BCM (2002-04 Insights) ora new BCM and MCM (2000-01 Insights): ^ Remove the mounting bolts. ^ Disconnect the connectors: The BCM has three the MCM has five. ^ Remove the module(s). ^ Install the new module(s) in the reverse order of removal, and torque the mounting bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb-ft). 19. Reinstall the foam insert. 20. Reinstall the IPU lid. Torque the bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb.ft). 21. Reinstall the under-cover (two bolts, two clips, and three screw clips.) Torque the bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb.ft). 22. Remove the battery module switch locking cover, flip the switch to ON, then reinstall the locking cover. 23. Reinstall the battery module switch cover. 24. Reinstall the rear clips on the middle bulkhead carpet. 25. Reinstall the cargo floor mat. 26. Check for and clear any DTCs with the HDS. Page 638 96. Left Rear Side of PCU Page 3602 5. If spark plugs need to be replaced, select the spark plugs according to the designation on the cylinder head and the table shown. 6. Apply a small quantity of anti-seize compound to the plug threads, and screw the plugs into the cylinder head finger-tight. The torque them to 23 N.m (2.3 kgf.m,17 lbf.ft). NOTE: If a spark plug is to be reused, use it in the cylinder where the plug was originally located. Page 6643 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 4955 Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution diagram set to get a more detailed picture of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Page 3703 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. Page 3992 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Page 5727 Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Testing and Inspection Mode Switch Test 1. Remove the screws securing the mode switch, then remove the switch. 2. Disconnect the connector from the switch. 3. Check the S mode switch for continuity between connector terminals No. 3 and No. 5. There should be continuity while pressing the S mode switch, and no continuity when the switch released. 4. Check the D mode switch for continuity between connector terminals No. 1 and No. 5. There should be continuity while pressing the D mode switch, and no continuity when the switch is released. 5. If either switch is faulty, replace it. 6. If the switch is OK, but switch failure occurred, check and repair the wire harness on the mode switch circuit. Page 9564 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 2219 Oil Pressure Sender: Service and Repair Oil Pressure Switch Replacement 1. Remove the throttle body. 2. Disconnect the oil pressure switch connector, then remove the oil pressure switch. 3. Apply liquid gasket to the oil pressure switch, then install the oil pressure switch. 4. Install the throttle body. Page 1555 NOTE: Do this repair procedure if, after doing step 10 of the test-drive, the vehicle pulled in the opposite direction after you swapped the front tires. 1. Swap wheels 2 and 4 on the passenger's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again. ^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 2, then go to step 3. ^ If the pull does not go away, put wheels 2 and 4 back to their original positions, and go to step 2. 2. Swap wheels 1 and 3 on the driver's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again. ^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 1, then go to step 3. ^ If the pull does not go away, use a known-good tire in position 1 and continue diagnosis. 3. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC. REPAIR PROCEDURE B Page 9864 Daytime Running Lamp Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relay Test Normally-open type A: 1. Turn the battery module switch OFF, and measure the voltage. 2. Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is disconnected. A/C compressor clutch relay - Air fuel ratio sensor relay - Condenser fan relay - Daytime running lights relay (Canada) - Headlight relay 1 - Headlight relay 2 - High speed battery module fan control relay - High speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - High voltage conductor control relay - Horn relay - Ignition hold relay - Low speed battery module fan control relay - Low speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - Power window relay - Radiator fan relay - Rear window defogger relay - Reverse relay - Starter cut relay Page 4690 Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution diagram set to get a more detailed picture of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. A/C Compressor Belt Drive Belt: Adjustments A/C Compressor Belt Water Pump-A/C Compressor Belt Inspection and Adjustment // With A/C Special Tools Required - Belt tension gauge 07JGG-001010A Belt Tension Gauge Method Inspection 1. Remove the right rear splash shield. 2. Attach the belt tension gauge to the belt, and measure the tension. Follow the gauge manufacturer's instructions. If the belt is worn or damaged, replace it. If the belt needs adjustment, go to step 3. Adjustment 3. Loosen the idler pulley center nut (A). 4. Turn the adjusting bolt (B) to obtain the proper belt tension, then retighten the idler pulley center nut. 5. Recheck the belt tension. 6. If you installed a new belt, run the engine for five minutes, then readjust the belt to the used belt specification. Deflection Method Inspection Page 6404 174. Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box Part 2 Page 591 51. Under Left Side of Dash Page 3620 45. IAT Sensor Page 6846 Steering Control Module: Service and Repair EPS Control Unit Removal/Installation 1. Write down the frequencies for the radio preset buttons. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. 2. Remove the right kick panel. 3. Remove the EPS control unit and the power relay. 4. Disconnect the EPS control unit connectors and power relay connector. 5. Install the EPS control unit in the reverse order of removal. 6. Reconnect the battery cable and do the following: 1. Power window control unit reset procedure. 2. Reset the radio station presets. 3. Set the clock. Page 10300 Windshield Washer Hose: Service and Repair Washer Tubes Replacement 1. Remove the right front inner fender. 2. Remove the washer nozzles and clips, then remove the tubes. 3. Install in the reverse order of removal. Take care not to pinch the washer tubes. Check the washers operation. Page 5953 Parking Brake Warning Switch: Testing and Inspection Parking Brake Switch Test 1. Remove the console, and disconnect the connector (A) from the switch (B). 2. Check for continuity between the positive terminal and body ground: ^ With the brake lever up, there should be continuity. ^ With the brake lever down, there should be no continuity. Page 3952 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: Page 2832 4. Install the guide pins (A), then remove the remaining three bolts (B). 5. Attach the rotor puller with the bolts supplied. 6. Remove the motor rotor (A). Page 35 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. Page 321 P/N 17012-S01-A00 H/C 5999016 ECM/PCM: P/N 37820-P2P-A12 H/C 6104426 Defect Code: 072 Contention Code: C01 Skill Level: Repair Technician Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Connect the PGM Tester to the 16P data link connector. 2. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). Turn on the PGM Tester. 3. From the PROGRAM MENU screen, select HONDA SYSTEMS. 4. From the SYSTEM SELECT screen, select 1: PGM-FI. 5. From the TEST MODE MENU screen, select 6: INSPECTION. 6. From the INSPECTION MENU screen, select 2: EVAP TEST. 7. From the EVAP TEST MENU, select 1: SINGLE SOLENOIDS. 8. From the SINGLE SOLENOIDS MENU, activate the EVAP bypass solenoid valve. Listen for a click and feel for a light tap from the solenoid valve as you activate it. ^ If you can hear the solenoid valve click or feel it tap when activated, disregard this service bulletin, and look for other possible causes. ^ If you cannot hear the solenoid valve click or feel it tap when activated, go to step 9. 9. Replace the EVAP bypass solenoid valve (see section 11 of the appropriate service manual). 10. Test the new solenoid valve with the PGM Tester. ^ If you can hear the solenoid valve click or feel it tap when activated, go to step 15 or 16 as appropriate. ^ If you cannot hear the solenoid valve click or feel it tap when activated, go to step 11. 11. Check the wire harness and the connectors for damage. ^ If you find any damage, repair it, then go to step 12. ^ If you find no damage in the wire harness or connectors, go to step 13. 12. Test the solenoid valve again with the PGM Tester. ^ If you can hear the solenoid valve click or feel it tap when activated, go to step 15 or 16 as appropriate. ^ If you cannot hear the solenoid valve click or feel it tap when activated, go to step 13. 13. Replace the ECM/PCM (see section 11 of the appropriate service manual). 14. Use the PGM Tester to retest the solenoid valve. ^ If you can hear the solenoid valve click or feel it tap when activated, go to step 15 or 16 as appropriate. Page 7980 ^ Online, enter keyword AUDIO, NAVI, or RES, and select the appropriate removal procedure from the list. NOTE: If the customer's media (CD, CD magazine, DVD, DVD-A, cassette tape, navigation DVD, etc.) is stuck in the unit, leave it there. The manufacturer will remove and return it. 3. Obtain an Out-of-Warranty/New Replacement component repair form, and complete the Technician section.To obtain the form, do this: ^ On ISIS, click on Technical Library, then click on Job Aids. ^ Select the applicable form from the list, and print it out: - Out-of-Warranty/New Replacement Audio System Component Repair Form - Out-of-Warranty/New Replacement Navigation System Component Repair Form - Out-of-Warranty/New Replacement Rear Entertainment System Component Repair Form Parts Manager: 4. Complete the parts manager's section of the Out-of-Warranty/New Replacement component repair form. Make sure you include your name, department, and dealership phone number on the form. 5. Identify the manufacturer. Units sent to the wrong manufacturer may not be shipped back within the usual 5-7 days. ^ Look for the number code on the face of the unit. ^ If the unit has no number code on its face, check the label on the unit housing, and compare the first two or three letters of the radio reference number (or the audio unit model number) to this list: Alpine - CM, CD, MR, or MF Clarion - PH Fujitsu Ten - CE or SD Panasonic - CQ or CR Pioneer KEH or DEH 6. Contact the manufacturer (see step 9) to request an estimate for the cost of the repair plus shipping. 7. Complete the required paperwork: ^ Paying by check - Make a dealership check out to the manufacturer for the cost of repair and return shipping. Make sure to include the check number on the form. NOTE: For all Panasonic products, make your check out to Komtec Electronics. ^ Paying by credit card (Visa or Mastercard only) - When you use a credit card, fill in all of these fields on the component repair form: - Credit card number - Credit card expiration date Page 8882 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. Page 6852 101. EPS Motor Relay Page 5998 Brake Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch: Diagrams 25. Brake Fluid Level Switch 205. Brake Fluid Pressure Sensor A 206. Brake Fluid Pressure Sensor B Diagram Information and Instructions Headlamp Reminder Indicator: Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System Terminal Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown below is #6. Page 6322 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Page 4161 2. Remove the carpet hold-down clips on the door sill. 3. Remove the carpet hold-down clip in the passenger's footwell under the glove box. Pull back the carpet. 4. Remove the ECM cover mounting nuts. 5. Pivot the lower edge of the ECM cover off the mounting studs. Lift the upper edge of the cover off the mounting studs, then pull the cover down and back so it clears the evaporator drain tube. 6. Remove the two bolts mounting the ECM to the cover. Disconnect the ECM connectors, and remove the ECM. 7. Install the new ECM and the cover in the reverse order of removal. 8. Reinstall the carpet and the door sill trim. 9. Connect the PGM Tester to the data link connector (DLC). 10. Use the PGM Tester to program the customer's immobilizer key codes into the ECM. Verify that all the keys will start the engine. NOTE: Make sure the PGM Tester software is SN32OP or later. 11. Do the idle learn procedure: ^ Warm the engine to normal operating temperature. ^ Let the engine idle for 10 minutes. If the radiator fan comes on, do not include its running time in the 10 minutes. 12. Center-punch a completion mark above the eighth character of the engine compartment VIN. 13. For California residents: Fill out and give to your customer a Vehicle Emission Recall - Proof of Correction certificate. Advise them to keep this certificate as proof that the emissions recall was completed. Your customer will need to submit this certificate to the DMV if the DMV requests it. A supply of these salmon-colored certificates was sent to your service manager. If you need more, use reorder number Y0657. Page 1825 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. Locations 42. Under Left Side of Dash Page 6350 Multiple Junction Connector: Service and Repair How to Install New Terminals HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. Page 6295 Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box Page 6629 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. Page 5549 Wheel Bearing: Service and Repair Rear Hub Bearing Unit Replacement NOTICE: To avoid damage, do not strike aluminum parts with a metal hammer. If necessary, tap gently with a plastic tipped hammer. NOTE: Bolts and nuts with the [star] mark are special corrosion-resistant Dacro fasteners. Use the same type if replacement is necessary. 1. Raise the rear of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper location. 2. Remove the fender skirt. 3. Remove the center cap (A), wheel nuts (B), and rear wheel (C). Page 7650 157. SRS Unit Diagram Information and Instructions Seat Belt Reminder Lamp: Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System Terminal Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown below is #6. Page 6755 The road crown gauge measures the amount of road crown. Almost all roads have a crown to help drain water during rainstorms. Use the suction cup to attach the road crown gauge bracket to the vehicle in a vertical position. If necessary, bend the bracket until the gauge is vertical. Once you attach and align the road crown gauge, calibrate the gauge to zero. There are two ways to calibrate the gauge: ^ Park the vehicle on a level surface, such as an alignment rack, and calibrate the gauge by moving the gauge until the ball is on the zero mark. ^ If you do not have a perfectly flat surface, park the vehicle on a reasonably flat surface and note the gauge reading. Turn the vehicle 1800 and, with the tires in the same spot, note the new gauge reading. Then move the gauge half of the difference. For example, if your first reading is +3 and, after moving the vehicle, the gauge reads -1, then the difference is 4 degrees. Position the gauge to read +1. NOTE: You must calibrate the gauge with the same weight in the vehicle that you will use for the test-drive. If you plan to have an assistant help you during the test-drive, calibrate the gauge while both of you are sitting in the vehicle. Page 13 Splices Components Ground - "G" Page 8368 Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution diagram set to get a more detailed picture of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Page 9342 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Page 521 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 9427 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. Page 4976 Fuel Pump Relay: Connector Views Page 1870 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. Page 4918 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Page 4026 Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution diagram set to get a more detailed picture of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Page 2431 21. Connect the CMP sensor A (TDC sensor 1) connector (A), CMP sensor B (TDC sensor 2) connector (B), ECT sensor connector (C), IAT sensor connector (D), and EVAP purge control solenoid valve connector (E). Install the harness clamp (F) and water bypass hose (G). 22. Install the air cleaner housing/intake air duct assembly (A), then-install the brake booster vacuum hose bracket (B) and breather pipe (C). 23. Install the engine cover. 24. Refill the radiator with engine coolant, and bleed air from the cooling system with the heater valve open. 25. Start the engine. Hold the engine at 3,500 rpm with no load for 10 minutes. 26. The IMA Battery Level indicator should read full. 27. Perform the engine control module (ECM) idle learn procedure. 28. Enter the customer's radio station presets. Page 3272 - Taillight relay Locations Trunk / Liftgate Relay: Locations Page 4079 16. Rear of Engine Page 8770 Diodes How to Identify Wiring Color-Coded Insulation Wire Color Page 6585 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. Page 7973 1. Print out the appropriate system worksheet from an Interactive Network (iN) workstation. ^ From the iN main menu, click on SERVICE. ^ Click on (ISIS) Service Publications. ^ Click on SEARCH BY PUBLICATION. ^ Click on Job Aids. ^ Click on Audio System Worksheet, Navigation System Worksheet, or Rear Entertainment System Worksheet. 2. Duplicate and confirm the problem using the customer information written on the repair order or have the customer demonstrate the problem, then write down the results on the worksheet. Using the SYMPTOM TROUBLESHOOTING INDEX or the DTC INDEX (if applicable) in the applicable service manual, find the symptom that matches the customers complaint, and follow the diagnostic procedure: ^ Refer to the appropriate section in the service manual, or ^ From the iN main menu: - Click on SERVICE. - Click on ISIS (Service Publications). - Click on SEARCH BY VEHICLE. - Enter the model and the model year. - Enter a keyword: AUDIO, NAVIGATION, or RES, and the DTC (if applicable) - Select the appropriate Service Bulletin, ServiceNews article, or Symptom Troubleshooting from the list. 3. Repair the vehicle according to your diagnosis, then confirm the repair by trying to duplicate the customer's original complaint, or check to see if the DTC returns: ^ If the problem is gone, return the vehicle to the customer. ^ If the problem is still there, go to step 4. 4. Replace the audio/navigation/RES unit with a remanufactured unit: Page 2467 Radiator Cooling Fan Motor Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relay Test Normally-open type A: 1. Turn the battery module switch OFF, and measure the voltage. 2. Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is disconnected. A/C compressor clutch relay - Air fuel ratio sensor relay - Condenser fan relay - Daytime running lights relay (Canada) - Headlight relay 1 - Headlight relay 2 - High speed battery module fan control relay - High speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - High voltage conductor control relay - Horn relay - Ignition hold relay - Low speed battery module fan control relay - Low speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - Power window relay - Radiator fan relay - Rear window defogger relay - Reverse relay - Starter cut relay Page 7321 Dash Board View Page 8884 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 7768 In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locater) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: - Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. Page 1839 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 3935 Terminals - "T" Shielding Switches Fuses Page 569 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. Page 2231 Intake Manifold Page 10125 Vanity Lamp: Diagnostic Aids Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Service and Repair Countershaft: Service and Repair For further information regarding this component and the system that it is a part of, please refer to Manual Transmission/Transaxle; Service and Repair. Locations SRS Components Page 10144 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 9513 Cavity Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity / terminal shown is # 6. Circuit Schematics Page 7153 Air Door Actuator / Motor: Testing and Inspection Recirculation Control Motor Circuit Troubleshooting Climate Control Recirculation Control Motor Circuit Troubleshooting 1. Check the No. 16 (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box. Is the fuse OK? YES - Go to step 2. NO - Replace the fuse, and recheck. 2. Disconnect the recirculation control motor 4P connector. 3. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 4. Measure the voltage between the No. 1 terminal of the recirculation control motor 4P connector and body ground. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 5. NO - Repair open in the wire between the recirculation control motor and the No. 16 fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box. 5. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 6. Test the recirculation control motor. Is the recirculation control motor OK ? YES - Go to step 7. NO - Go to step 12. 7. Disconnect climate control unit connector B (22P). 8. Check for continuity between the No. 18 and No. 19 terminals of climate control unit connector B (22P) and body ground individually. Is there continuity? YES - Repair any short to body ground in the wire(s) between the climate control unit and the recirculation control motor. Page 3397 Clutch Switch: Testing and Inspection Clutch Switch Signal Circuit Troubleshooting 1. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 2. Measure voltage between ECM connector terminals B14 and B20. Is there approx. 5 V? YES - Go to step 3. NO - Go to step 5. 3. Press the clutch pedal. 4. Measure voltage between ECM connector terminals B14 and B20. Is voltage less than 1.0 V? YES - Clutch switch signal is OK. NO - Go to step 12. 5. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 6. Disconnect the clutch switch 2P connector. 7. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 8. Measure voltage between ECM connector terminals B14 and B20. Is there approx. 5 V? Page 7157 Air Door Actuator / Motor: Testing and Inspection Recirculation Control Motor Test Climate Control 1. Disconnect the 4P connector from the recirculation control motor. 2. Connect battery power to the No.1 terminal, and ground the No.2 and No.4 terminals one at a time; the recirculation control motor should run smoothly. To avoid damaging the recirculation control motor, do not reverse power and ground. Disconnect the No.2 or No.4 terminals from ground; the recirculation control motor should stop at Fresh or Recirculate. Don't cycle the recirculation control motor for a long time. 3. If the recirculation control motor does not run in step 2, remove it, then check the recirculation control linkage and door for smooth movement. - If the door move smoothly, replace the recirculation control motor. - If the door is stuck or binding, repair them as needed. Heating and Air Conditioning Recirculation Control Motor Test 1. Disconnect the 4P connector from the recirculation control motor. NOTE: Incorrectly applying power and ground to the recirculation control motor will damage it. Follow the instructions carefully. 2. Connect battery power to the No. 1 terminal of the recirculation control motor, and ground the No. 2 and No. 4 terminals one at a time; the recirculation control motor should run smoothly. To avoid damaging the recirculation control motor, do not reverse power and ground. Disconnect the No. 2 or No. 4 terminals from ground; the recirculation control motor should stop at Fresh or Recirculate. Don't cycle the recirculation control motor for a long time. 3. If the recirculation control motor does not run in step 2, remove it, then check the recirculation control linkage and door for smooth movement. - If the linkage and doors move smoothly, replace the recirculation control motor. - If the linkage or doors stick or bind, repair them as needed. Page 515 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Page 280 Fuse-to-Components Index Image 6-3 Page 8784 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 2914 10. Check for continuity between body ground and MCM connector terminal A6. Is there continuity? YES- Go to step 11. NO- Repair open in the wire between the MCM (A6) and the low speed motor power inverter module fan control relay. 11. Measure voltage between body ground and the low speed motor power inverter module fan control relay 4P connector terminals No. 2 and No. 4 individually. Is there battery voltage? YES- Go to step 12. NO- Check for: ^ A blown No. 5 IMA FAN (15 A) fuse. ^ An open in the wire between the No. 5 IMA FAN (15 A) fuse and the low speed motor power inverter module fan control relay. 12. Disconnect the MPI module fan 2P connector. 13. Connect the MPI module fan 2P connector terminal No. 1 and body ground with a jumper wire. Page 9120 Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow from power at the top of the diagram to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another for example is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors Page 4264 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Page 9577 Dome Lamp: Electrical Diagrams Diagram 114-0 Diagrams: Other diagrams referred to by number (See Diagram ##-#, etc.) within these diagrams can be found at Diagrams by Number. See: Diagrams/Electrical Diagrams/Diagrams By Number Locations: Location photographs (references to PHOTOS) referred to within these diagrams can be found at Locations by Photo Number. See: Locations/Component Locations/Locations By Photo Number Connector Views: Connector terminal views (references to VIEWS) referred to within these diagrams can be found at Connector Views by View Locations Relay And Control Unit Locations - Dashboard Page 4920 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. Page 4972 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. Page 2268 25. Install the cam chain on the camshaft sprocket with the punch mark (A) aligned with the colored piece (B). 26. Fit the camshaft sprocket on the camshaft. 27. Turn the camshaft sprocket counterclockwise to relieve cam chain free play, and check the alignment of the TDC mark (C) on the camshaft sprocket with the cylinder head surface. If the camshaft sprocket is not positioned at TDC, remove the camshaft sprocket from the camshaft, and reposition the cam chain to bring the camshaft sprocket to TDC. 28. Hold the camshaft with an open-end wrench, then tighten the camshaft sprocket mounting bolt. 29. Put the new cylinder head plug into the cylinder head. 30. Press the rod to pump the oil out of the timing chain auto-tensioner. 31. Install the new O-ring into the spacer. Set the spacer and new gasket on the cam chain auto-tensioner, then tighten the bolt and nuts equally while pressing the cam chain auto-tensioner against the cylinder head. 32. Adjust the valve clearance. 33. Install the cylinder head cover. 34. Install the engine oil cooler bypass hoses. Page 1241 Camshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation Camshaft Position (CMP) A and B (Top Dead Center (TDC) 1 and 2), and Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensors The CMPA (TDC 1) and CMPB (TDC 2) sensors detect the position of the No.1 cylinder as a reference for sequential fuel injection to each cylinder. The CKP sensor detects engine speed and determines ignition timing and timing for fuel injection of each cylinder. Page 6853 Power Steering Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relay Test Normally-open type B: EPS Motor Relay 1. Turn the battery module switch OFF, and measure the voltage. 2. Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 3 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 2 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 3 terminals when power is disconnected. Page 1891 Fuse-to-Components Index Image 6-2 Locations Shift Interlock Solenoid: Locations 132. Valve Body (Remove) (CVT) 133. Middle of Floor (CVT) Page 2076 Cavity Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity / terminal shown is # 6. Circuit Schematics Page 6700 174. Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box Part 2 Page 8741 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 1640 Spark Plug: Testing and Inspection Spark Plug Inspection/Replacement 1. Remove the spark plugs, and note which cylinder each one came from. 2. Inspect the electrodes and ceramic insulator. Burned or worn electrodes may be caused by: Advanced ignition timing - Loose spark plug - Insufficient cooling Fouled plug may be caused by: Retarded ignition timing - Oil in combustion chamber - Incorrect spark plug gap - Excessive idling/low speed running - Clogged air cleaner element - Deteriorated ignition coil 3. Do not adjust the gap of iridium tip plugs (A); replace the spark plug if the gap is out of specification. Electrode Gap: Standard (New): 1.0 - 1.1 mm (0.039 - 0.043 in.) Service Limit: 1.3 mm (0.051 in.) 4. Replace the plug at the specified interval, or if the center electrode is rounded (A). Page 9232 3. Using the tool, loosen the fuel pump locknut (A), and remove the fuel pump. 4. Measure the resistance between the No.1 and No.2 terminals with the float at E (EMPTY), 1/2 (HALF FULL), and F (FULL) positions. If you do not get the given readings, replace the fuel gauge sending unit (A). 5. Install the pants in the reverse order of removal with a new base gasket and new quick connect retainers, then check these items: - When connecting the wire harness, make sure the connection is secure and the connector (B) is firmly locked into place. Page 7333 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 2860 12. Remove the mounting bolts for the battery condition monitor (BCM) module and the motor control module (MCM). Disconnect the electrical connectors, then remove the two modules. 13. Install the new BCM and the new MCM. Make sure all electrical connectors are secure. 14. Reinstall the IPU lid. 15. Remove the locking cover from the battery module switch, install the 5 mm bolt, turn the switch on, and reinstall the locking cover. 16. Reinstall the remaining parts in the reverse order of removal. 17. Reconnect the negative cable to the 12-volt battery in the engine compartment. 18. Remove the EPS fuse from the under-hood fusel relay box. 19. With the transmission in neutral and the clutch released, run the engine at 3,500 rpm until the battery level shows at least 50 percent charge. 20. Turn off the engine, then reinstall the EPS fuse. 21. Enter the radio station presets, and set the clock. Disclaimer Page 6123 3. Remove the battery module switch cover (two bolts), then remove the locking cover from the switch. 4. Flip the battery module switch to OFF, then reinstall the locking cover. 5. Wait at least 5 minutes for the capacitors in the system to discharge. 6. Remove the rear clips from the middle bulkhead carpet. Emissions/Engine Controls - MIL ON/DTC P1457 (EVAP) Engine Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins Emissions/Engine Controls - MIL ON/DTC P1457 (EVAP) 03-001 January 28, 2003 Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED MIL Comes On With DTC P1457: EVAP Bypass Solenoid Valve Failure SYMPTOM The MIL is on, and DTC P1457 [leak detected in EVAP control system (EVAP control canister system)] is set. PROBABLE CAUSE The EVAP bypass solenoid valve can fail due to corrosion. The solenoid valve may get water inside. If the water contains road salt, the solenoid windings could corrode, causing the valve to fail. In a few rare instances, the corrosion could be severe enough to cause an internal short in the solenoid valve, which could damage the ECM/PCM. If this happens, both the bypass solenoid valve and the ECM/PCM would need to be replaced. Vehicles driven in the Northeastern part of the U.S. are more likely to have this problem because of the salting of roads during the winter months. Vehicles driven where salt is not used on the roads are much less likely to have this problem. VEHICLES AFFECTED 1998-02 Accord 1998-00 Civic 1998-01 CR-V 2000-02 Insight 1999-03 Odyssey 2003 Pilot 2000-03 S2000 CORRECTIVE ACTION Test and, if necessary, replace the EVAP bypass solenoid valve. Replace the ECM/PCM if needed. PARTS INFORMATION Refer to the parts catalog for the appropriate part number and Honda code. WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Failed Part: EVAP Bypass Solenoid Valve: Page 2324 Splices Components Ground - "G" Page 9548 Splices Components Ground - "G" Page 6518 51. Noise Condenser Page 9126 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. Page 5799 Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution diagram set to get a more detailed picture of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Component Locations Power Trunk / Liftgate Lock Actuator: Component Locations Hatch Opener - Component Location Index Page 8383 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. Page 1424 16. Measure voltage between the clutch pedal position switch 2P connector terminal No.2 and body ground. Is there about 5 V? YES - Repair open in the wire between the clutch pedal position switch and G402. NO - Repair open in the wire between the ECM (B14) and the clutch pedal position switch. Page 2198 Engine Oil Pressure: Testing and Inspection Test If the low oil pressure indicator stays on with the engine running, check the engine oil level. If the oil level is correct: 1. Connect a tachometer. 2. Remove the oil pressure switch, and install an oil pressure gauge (A). 3. Install the throttle body. 4. Start the engine. Shut it off immediately if the gauge registers no oil pressure. Repair the problem before continuing. 5. Allow the engine to reach operating temperature (fan comes on at least twice). The pressure should be: Engine Oil Temperature: 176°F (80°C) Engine Oil Pressure: At Idle: 70 kPa (0.7 kgf/cm2, 10 psi) minimum At 3,000 rpm: 340 kPa (3.5 kgf/cm2, 50 psi) minimum 6. If oil pressure is NOT within specifications, inspect the oil pump. 7. After inspection, install the oil pressure switch. Page 4139 DTC P0158 thru P0400 Page 7956 1. Print out the appropriate system worksheet from an Interactive Network (iN) workstation. ^ From the iN main menu, click on SERVICE. ^ Click on (ISIS) Service Publications. ^ Click on SEARCH BY PUBLICATION. ^ Click on Job Aids. ^ Click on Audio System Worksheet, Navigation System Worksheet, or Rear Entertainment System Worksheet. 2. Duplicate and confirm the problem using the customer information written on the repair order or have the customer demonstrate the problem, then write down the results on the worksheet. Using the SYMPTOM TROUBLESHOOTING INDEX or the DTC INDEX (if applicable) in the applicable service manual, find the symptom that matches the customers complaint, and follow the diagnostic procedure: ^ Refer to the appropriate section in the service manual, or ^ From the iN main menu: - Click on SERVICE. - Click on ISIS (Service Publications). - Click on SEARCH BY VEHICLE. - Enter the model and the model year. - Enter a keyword: AUDIO, NAVIGATION, or RES, and the DTC (if applicable) - Select the appropriate Service Bulletin, ServiceNews article, or Symptom Troubleshooting from the list. 3. Repair the vehicle according to your diagnosis, then confirm the repair by trying to duplicate the customer's original complaint, or check to see if the DTC returns: ^ If the problem is gone, return the vehicle to the customer. ^ If the problem is still there, go to step 4. 4. Replace the audio/navigation/RES unit with a remanufactured unit: Electrical - Battery Replacement Precautions Battery Cable: Technical Service Bulletins Electrical - Battery Replacement Precautions Replacing a Battery? Don't Disconnect the Cables With the Engine Running When replacing a battery, many service techs disconnect the battery cables with the engine running to keep the data alive in volatile memory. This practice worked fine back in the day when vehicles were pretty much a box on wheels, but with so many of today's vehicles sporting a impressive array of cool, high tech hardware, it's not recommended. Here's why: ^ The battery works as a capacitor to prevent sudden swings in voltage. With the battery cables disconnected, the alternator voltage regulator tries to stabilize the system voltage, but it can only do so by turning the alternator on and off. ^ When solenoids or relays are turned on and of{ they produce a very high voltage spike that travels through the 12-volt system. This voltage spike can fry sensitive solid state components or corrupt the data that's stored in volatile memory for such components as the gauge control module, the radio, and the various control units. The best way to keep data alive in volatile memory when replacing a battery is to hook up a Honda Computer Memory Saver to the 16P data link connector (DLC). This portable tool works as a secondary 12-volt source. It saves you the hassle of writing down your customer's audio presets, resetting the clock, or even doing the idle learn procedure. Page 1034 Dimmer Switch: Testing and Inspection Dash Lights Brightness Controller Control Circuit Input Test 1. Remove the gauge assembly. 2. Disconnect the 22P connector from the gauge assembly. 3. Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are making good contact. - If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system. - If the terminals look OK, go to step 4. 4. With the connector still disconnected, make these input tests at the connector. - If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system. - If all the input tests prove OK, replace the printed circuit board in the gauge assembly. Campaign - Integrated Motor Assist Controller Update Technical Service Bulletin # 01-102 Date: 011127 Campaign - Integrated Motor Assist Controller Update 01-102 November 27, 2001 Applies To: 2000-01 Insight with M/T - See VEHICLES AFFECTED Product Update: IMA Controller Modification BACKGROUND The IMA (Integrated Motor Assist) system supplies power to various 12-volt loads on the vehicle (lights, radio, windows, etc.) and assists the engine to improve vehicle performance. In very cold weather, power demands on the IMA battery module can exceed output, causing permanent damage to the battery module. VEHICLES AFFECTED Not all 2000-01 Insights with M/T are affected by this product update. Only vehicles that are registered and normally driven in cold weather areas are affected. Before you begin, verify that the vehicle is registered in one of the states affected by the update (see the map). Then check for vehicle eligibility by doing one of the following. ^ Verify that the customer has a notification letter. ^ Check the vehicle's VIN on your campaign responsibility report. ^ Do a VIN status inquiry on DCS. CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION All owners of affected vehicles will be sent a notification of this product update. An example of the customer notification. CORRECTIVE ACTION Replace the battery condition monitor (BCM) module and the motor control module (MCM). PARTS INFORMATION Page 9058 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 8203 Page 3311 Fuel Pump Relay: Connector Views Page 585 111. Rear Window Defogger, Fuel Cut, Radiator Fan Main (Climate Control) And Intermittent Wiper Relays Specifications Specifications Idle Speed: Specifications Idle Speed ........................................................................................................................................... .............................................................. 900 ± 50 rpm Page 497 Terminals - "T" Shielding Switches Fuses Locations 39. Upper Left Kick Panel Area Page 7207 Blower Motor: Service and Repair Components Replacement Blower Unit Components Replacement Note these items when overhauling the blower unit: - The recirculation control motor (A), the blower motor high relay (B), and the blower motor (C) can be replaced without removing the blower unit. - Before reassembly, make sure that the recirculation control linkage and door move smoothly. - After reassembly, make sure the recirculation control motor runs smoothly Page 362 Page 688 11. Use the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) with version 1.011.014 or later software to clear any set DTCs. 12. Reinstall the IPU lid and the mid-frame cover bolts. Torque the bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb-ft). 13. Reinstall the right trunk shelf support. Torque the bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb-ft). 14. Remove the battery module switch locking cover, and flip the switch to ON. Reinstall the locking cover. 15. Reinstall the battery module switch cover. 16. Reinstall the cargo floor mat. 17. Return the vehicle to your customer. Advise your customer that it is OK to drive the vehicle as is until the replacement parts arrive, but the vehicle will have reduced power (no IMA assist). 18. Order a battery module and, if needed, a BCM, an MCM, or both. REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Remove the battery module from the vehicle (see page 12-113 of the service manual). (In ISIS, use the keyword BAT MOD, and select Battery Module Removal/Installation from the list.) 2. Remove the lifting tool from the battery module. 3. Remove the mounting bolts for the MCM and the BCM (eight total). Unplug the electrical connectors (five for the MCM and three for the BCM), then remove the modules. 4. Install the MCM and the BCM in the new battery module. Use the original MCM and BCM if no replacement was needed; otherwise, use the appropriate replacement parts. Torque the mounting bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb-ft). 5. Install the lifting tool on the battery module. 6. With someone to help you, carefully lift the battery module into the vehicle, and set it down into position. Remove the lifting tool. 7. Plug in the connectors, and install the Y condenser harness. Then install the mounting bolts. Torque the bolts to 24 N.m (17 lb-ft). 8. Install the battery module air duct. Torque the bolt to 9.8 N~m (7.2 lb-ft). 9. Connect the high voltage cables to the junction board. Torque the bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb-ft). 10. Install the front and rear IPU braces and the mid-frame. Torque the bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb-ft). 11. Install the foam inserts. Page 9129 First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 7967 Locations Blower Motor Relay: Locations Heating - Component Location Index Page 4914 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Locations Fuel Pump Relay: Locations Fuel Supply System - Relay Locations Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box Page 9374 Wire Color Coding Distinct Of Circuit By Wire Base Color All wires have color-coded insulation. Wires belonging to a system's main harness will have a single color. Wires belonging to a system's sub-circuits will have a colored stripe. Striped wires use the codes found in the chart to show wire size and colors. Abbreviations are used to indicate wire color within a circuit diagram. Wire Color Abbreviations The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics: WHT................................... White YEL................................... Yellow BLK................................... Black BLU................................... Blue GRN................................... Green RED................................... Red ORN................................... Orange PNK................................... Pink BRN................................... Brown GRY................................... Gray PUR................................... Purple LT BLU................................... Light Blue LT GRN................................... Light Green The wire insulation has one color or one color with another color stripe. The second color is the stripe. How to Identify Connector Terminals How to Identify Connector Terminals Page 2325 Terminals - "T" Shielding Switches Fuses Climate Control Unit Control Assembly: Service and Repair Climate Control Unit Climate Control Unit Removal and Installation 1. Remove the instrument panel with the climate control unit. 2. Remove the self-tapping screws and the climate control unit (A) from the instrument panel (B). 3. Install the control unit in the reverse order of removal, and note these items. - Be sure to install the short black self-tapping screw in the position shown. If a longer screw is used, it will damage the instrument panel. - After installation, operate the control unit controls to see whether it works properly. 4. Run the self-diagnosis function to confirm that there are no problems in the system. Page 7396 Evaporator Case: Service and Repair Disassembly and Assembly 1. Remove the filter lid (A), then pull out the A/C filter (B). 2. Pull out the evaporator temperature sensor (C) from the evaporator fins. 3. Remove the screws, carefully separate the upper housing (D) from the lower housing (E), then remove the evaporator core (F). 4. If necessary, remove the expansion valve (G). Use a second wrench to hold the other fitting on the valve so the evaporator line won't twist. Leave the first fitting loosely connected so you can use it to hold the valve while you loosen the second fitting. 5. Reassemble in the reverse order of disassembly, and note these items: - Replace the O-rings with new ones at each fitting, and apply a thin coat of refrigerant oil before installing them. - Be sure to use the right O-rings for HFC-134a (R-134a) to avoid leakage. - Immediately after using the oil, replace the cap on the container, and seal it to avoid moisture absorption. - Install the capillary tube (H) directly against the outlet line, and wrap it with electrical tape (I). - Reinstall the evaporator temperature sensor in its original location. - Make sure no air is leaking from the upper housing and the lower housing fitting. Page 3301 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: Page 8408 3. Remove the glove box, then disconnect the passenger's airbag 2P connector (A) from the floor wire harness. Seat Belt Tensioner: 4. Remove the B-pillar lower trim panel, then disconnect the seat belt tensioner2P connector (A) from the floor wire harness. Page 543 Wire Color Abbreviations Page 9483 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. Page 1541 NOTE: Do this repair procedure if, after doing step 10 of the test-drive, the vehicle pulled in the opposite direction after you swapped the front tires. 1. Swap wheels 2 and 4 on the passenger's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again. ^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 2, then go to step 3. ^ If the pull does not go away, put wheels 2 and 4 back to their original positions, and go to step 2. 2. Swap wheels 1 and 3 on the driver's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again. ^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 1, then go to step 3. ^ If the pull does not go away, use a known-good tire in position 1 and continue diagnosis. 3. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC. REPAIR PROCEDURE B Page 8268 102. Hatch Opener Relay Service and Repair Front Strut / Shock Tower: Service and Repair Page 4758 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 4540 First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 9471 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. Page 8221 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 8080 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. Page 4553 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 5069 8. Set the locknut on the cable bracket (A). Adjust the adjusting nut (B) so that its free play is 0 mm. 9. Remove the cable from the throttle bracket (A). Reset the adjusting nut (B) and tighten the locknut (C). 10. With the cable properly adjusted, check the throttle valve to be sure it opens fully when you push the accelerator pedal to the floor. Also check the throttle valve to be sure it returns to the idle position whenever you release the accelerator pedal. Page 9858 Daytime Running Lamp Control Unit: Testing and Inspection Daytime Running Lights Control Unit Input Test - Canada 1. Remove the left door sill trim, and pull away the carpet from left front side of floor. 2. Disconnect the 14P connector (A) from the daytime running lights control unit (B). 3. Inspect all connector and socket terminals to be sure they are all making good contact. - If the terminals are bent, loose, or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system. - If the terminals look OK, go to step 4. Page 5372 204. TCM (CVT) Page 6308 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 6670 Connectors - "C" Page 2651 3. Enter the VIN for the vehicle you are working on, then select Search. 4. Review all displayed publications for additional repair information. If you cannot repair the problem with the information provided, select IMA Battery Order. 5. Enter the mileage for the vehicle you are working on, and select Submit to view the IMA Battery Order form. 6. Fill in the IMA Battery Order form. Questions with a red asterisk (*) are required fields that you must answer to submit the form. Make sure the information is complete. This information is critical to the remanufacturing process. Page 8397 Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Service Precautions Wiring Precautions Wiring Precautions SRS wiring can be identified by special yellow outer covering (except the SRS indicator light circuit). Never attempt to modify, splice, or repair SRS wiring. If there is an open or damage in SRS wiring, replace the harness. Be sure to install the harness wires so that they are not pinched, or interfere with other parts. Make sure all SRS ground locations are clean, and grounds are securely fastened for optimum metal-to-metal contact. Poor grounding can cause intermittent problems that are difficult to diagnose. Page 6964 9. Install the boot band by aligning the tabs (A) with holes (B) of the band. Make sure the ear portion (C) is within the range shown. 10. Close the ear portion (A) of the band with commercially available pincers, Oetiker 98 or equivalent (B). 11. Slide the rack right and left to be certain that the boots are not deformed or twisted. Page 6399 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. Diagram Information and Instructions Dimmer Switch: Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System Terminal Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown below is #6. Page 1447 125. EPS Torque Sensor Page 2336 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 4052 10. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and measure voltage between ECM connector terminals B1 and B20, and between B9 and B20. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 11. NO - Check for an open in the wires between the PGM-FI main relay and the ECM (B1, B9). If the wires are OK, replace the PGM-FI main relay. 11. Turn the ignition switch OFF, then ON (II) again, and measure voltage between ECM connector terminals A15 and B2 within the first two seconds after the ignition switch is turned ON (II). Is there 1.0 V or less? YES - The PGM-FI main relay may be faulty. NO - Update the ECM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM, replace the original ECM. Page 9852 Backup Lamp Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relay Test Normally-open type A: 1. Turn the battery module switch OFF, and measure the voltage. 2. Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is disconnected. A/C compressor clutch relay - Air fuel ratio sensor relay - Condenser fan relay - Daytime running lights relay (Canada) - Headlight relay 1 - Headlight relay 2 - High speed battery module fan control relay - High speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - High voltage conductor control relay - Horn relay - Ignition hold relay - Low speed battery module fan control relay - Low speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - Power window relay - Radiator fan relay - Rear window defogger relay - Reverse relay - Starter cut relay Page 1973 Connectors - "C" Page 9385 First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 9644 Headlamp Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relay Test Normally-open type A: 1. Turn the battery module switch OFF, and measure the voltage. 2. Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is disconnected. A/C compressor clutch relay - Air fuel ratio sensor relay - Condenser fan relay - Daytime running lights relay (Canada) - Headlight relay 1 - Headlight relay 2 - High speed battery module fan control relay - High speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - High voltage conductor control relay - Horn relay - Ignition hold relay - Low speed battery module fan control relay - Low speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - Power window relay - Radiator fan relay - Rear window defogger relay - Reverse relay - Starter cut relay Page 1992 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: Specifications Idle Speed: Specifications Idle Speed ........................................................................................................................................... .............................................................. 900 ± 50 rpm Page 1866 In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locater) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: - Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. Page 1066 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. Page 4932 10. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and measure voltage between ECM connector terminals B1 and B20, and between B9 and B20. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 11. NO - Check for an open in the wires between the PGM-FI main relay and the ECM (B1, B9). If the wires are OK, replace the PGM-FI main relay. 11. Turn the ignition switch OFF, then ON (II) again, and measure voltage between ECM connector terminals A15 and B2 within the first two seconds after the ignition switch is turned ON (II). Is there 1.0 V or less? YES - The PGM-FI main relay may be faulty. NO - Update the ECM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM, replace the original ECM. Page 9666 Page 8071 Cavity Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity / terminal shown is # 6. Circuit Schematics Page 8065 Wires Page 2626 3. Remove the battery module switch cover (two bolts), then remove the locking cover from the switch. 4. Flip the battery module switch to OFF, then reinstall the locking cover. 5. Wait at least 5 minutes for the capacitors in the system to discharge. 6. Remove the rear clips from the middle bulkhead carpet. Locations 19. Rear of Transmission (M/T) Locations 96. Left Rear Side of PCU Page 162 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. Page 6499 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. Page 4073 89. MAP Sensor Service and Repair Trunk / Liftgate Latch: Service and Repair Hatch Latch and Hatch Opener Actuator Replacement NOTE: - Put on gloves to protect your hands. - Take care not to scratch the body. - Take care not to bend the cylinder rod. 1. Remove the rear trim panel and cargo box. 2. Remove the hatch latch and hatch opener actuator as shown. 3. Install the hatch latch and hatch opener actuator in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - Make sure the connectors are plugged in properly and the cylinder rod is connected properly. - Make sure the hatch opens properly and locks securely. Page 6381 All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416 etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector or by a capital letter (A, B, C etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Connector Views that shows the connector terminals wire colors connector cavity numbers and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints shown on diagram [8] . Except for the DLC (data link connector) disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554 for example means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Page 9902 Relay And Control Unit Locations - Dashboard Page 8829 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Diagrams 185. Idle Stop Switch (CVT) Page 416 DISCLAIMER Page 9321 Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow from power at the top of the diagram to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another for example is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors Page 1545 ^ If the wheels are pointed to the right, shorten the driver's side tie-rod, and lengthen the passenger's side. ^ If the wheels are pointed to the left, shorten the passenger's side tie-rod, and lengthen the driver's side. ^ Each 360° turn of the tie-rod equals about 8 mm of steering wheel adjustment. For example, a steering wheel is off-center by 4 mm with the front wheels pointed right (when the steering wheel is centered). To correct the off-center, shorten the driver's side tie-rod by a half-turn, and lengthen the passenger's side tie-rod by a half-turn. 4. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC. Page 8470 system will not enter the programming mode.) 3. Within 10 seconds, close and open the door two times. 4. Turn the ignition switch to the ACC position and then to the LOCK position three times. Close and open the door. (Complete this process within 10 seconds.) Verify that the power door locks cycle once to confirm that the system is in programming mode. 5. Within 20 seconds, press the "LOCK" button on the transmitter you are programming. Verify that the door locks cycle once. 6. Within 20 seconds, press the "UNLOCK" button on the transmitter. Verify that the door locks cycle once to confirm that the system has accepted the transmitter's code. Turning the Audible Chirp On/Off (1998-99 only) NOTE: On '00-02 Passports, the audible chirp sounds only when you push the LOCK button on the transmitter a second time. 1. Open the driver's door, then insert the key in the driver's door lock. 2. Turn the key to the "LOCK" position, then to the "UNLOCK" position. Repeat this two more times. (Complete this procedure within 10 seconds.) 3. Within 10 seconds, close and open the door two times. 4. Within 10 seconds, turn the key to the "LOCK" position, and then to the "UNLOCK" position, three times. Close and open the door once. Verify that the power door locks cycle once to confirm that the chirp has been turned on/off. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda using normal parts ordering procedures. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery number is CR2016. Each transmitter uses two batteries. Page 1451 125. EPS Torque Sensor Page 8885 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Page 4532 All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416 etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector or by a capital letter (A, B, C etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Connector Views that shows the connector terminals wire colors connector cavity numbers and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints shown on diagram [8] . Except for the DLC (data link connector) disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554 for example means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Page 10092 Combination Switch: Service and Repair Combination Light Switch Test/Replacement 1. Remove the steering column covers. 2. Disconnect the 16P connector (B) from the combination light switch (A). 3. Remove the two screws, then pull out the switch. 4. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table. If the continuity check is not as specified, replace the switch. Page 10238 Glass Primer And Adhesive Application Page 1052 In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locater) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: - Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. Page 6238 Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow from power at the top of the diagram to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another for example is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors Control Unit Input Test Key Reminder Switch: Testing and Inspection Control Unit Input Test Lights-on, Key-in, Seat Belt Reminder, Key Light Timer, Indicator/Reminder Systems 1. Remove the gauge assembly. 2. Disconnect the gauge assembly 30P connector A and 22P connector B. 3. Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are making good contact. - If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system. - If the terminals are OK, go to step 4. Page 8498 180. Unlock Relay (Honda Accessory) Page 7364 Splices Components Ground - "G" Page 2074 Diodes How to Identify Wiring Color-Coded Insulation Wire Color Service and Repair Rear Fender Liner: Service and Repair Rear Inner Fender Replacement NOTE: Take care not to scratch the body. 1. Remove the rear inner fender as shown. 2. Install the rear inner fender in the reverse order of removal, and check for damaged or stress-whitened clips, and replace them with new ones. Page 9283 4. With the connectors still disconnected, make these input tests at the connector. - If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system. - If all the input tests prove OK, go to step 5. 5. Connect the connectors to the gauge assembly and make these input tests at the connector. - If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system. - If all the input tests prove OK, replace the printed circuit board in the gauge assembly. Service and Repair Front Door Window Regulator: Service and Repair Door Glass and Regulator Replacement NOTE: - Put on gloves to protect your hands. - Take care not to scratch the door. - Take care not to drop the window glass inside the door. 1. Remove these items: - Door panel - Plastic cover 2. Remove the door glass and regulator in the numbered sequence. Page 1890 Fuse-to-components Index Image 6 Page 2598 CORRECTIVE ACTION Based on the model and/or model year, install the appropriate IMA repair kit or part. WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Turn the ignition switch to the LOCK (0 position). 2. Remove cargo floor mat: ^ Refer to page 20-44 of the 2000-2006 Insight Service Manual, or ^ Online, enter keywords FLOOR MAT, then select Interior Trim Removal/Installation - Cargo Area from the list. 3. Remove the battery module switch cover (two bolts), then remove the locking cover from the switch. Page 367 PARTS INFORMATION Engine Control Module: P/N 06380-PHM-A00, H/C 6441117 WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Carefully remove the passenger's side door sill trim. 2. Remove the two carpet hold-down clips on the door sill. 3. Remove the carpet hold-down clip in the passenger's footwell under the glove box. Pull back the carpet. 4. Remove the ECM cover mounting nuts. 5. Pivot the lower edge of the ECM cover off the mounting studs. Lift the upper edge of the cover off the mounting studs, then pull the cover down and back so it clears the evaporator drain tube. 6. Remove the two bolts mounting the ECM to the cover. Disconnect the ECM connectors. 7. Install the new ECM in the reverse order of removal. 8. Reinstall the carpet and the door sill trim. Page 9718 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Service and Repair Front Door Exterior Handle: Service and Repair Door Outer Handle Replacement NOTE: - Put on gloves to protect your hands. - Take care not to scratch the door. - Take care not to bend each rod. 1. Raise the glass fully, and remove these items: - Door panel - Plastic cover, as necessary 2. Remove the door outer handle in the numbered sequence. Page 43 Alarm/Immobilizer Control Unit: Description and Operation How the Immobilizer System Circuit Works The immobilizer system is designed to prevent the car from being started without the owner's ignition key. If an attempt is made to start the car with any other key, the immobilizer system will disable the car's fuel supply. The immobilizer system consists of the ignition key, immobilizer receiver unit, immobilizer system indicator, PGM-FI main relay, fuel pump, fuel cut relay, and the ECM. With the ignition switch in ON (II) or START (III), the immobilizer receiver unit and the ECM receive an "ignition on" signal through fuse 7 and the PGM-FI main relay. The ECM then sends power to the ignition key transponder through the immobilizer receiver unit. The transponder then sends a coded signal back to the ECM through the receiver. If the signal is correct, the ECM will enable the car's fuel supply system by grounding the fuel cut relay. The immobilizer system indicator then flashes a code to indicate that the correct key has been inserted. If the ignition key signal is not correct, the ECM will disable the car's fuel supply system by not grounding the fuel cut relay. The immobilizer system indicator then flashes a code to indicate that an incorrect key has been inserted. Refer to the Body Electrical System for specific tests and troubleshooting procedures. Page 7872 Alarm System Transponder: Service and Repair Immobilizer Receiver Unit Replacement 1. Remove the steering column covers. 2. Disconnect the 5P and connector (A) from the immobilizer receiver unit (B). 3. Remove the screws and the immobilizer receiver unit from the ignition key cylinder (C). 4. Install in the reverse order of removal. 5. After replacement, check the immobilizer system. Page 6681 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: - Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest OHMS" range. Specifications Valve Clearance: Specifications Valves Clearance (cold) Intake ................................................................................................................................................... ................ 0.18 - 0.22 mm (0.007 - 0.009 inch) Exhaust ..................................................................... ........................................................................................... 0.21 - 0.25 mm (0.008 - 0.010 inch) Page 5535 11. Unwind the boot band tool, and cut off the excess 5 to 10 mm (0.2 to 0.4 in.) from the clip. 12. Secure the end of the boot band by tapping it down over the clip with a hammer. 13. Make sure that the boot band and clip do not interfere with anything and that the band does not move. 14. If necessary, repeat steps 5 through 13 to install the boot band on the small end of the boot. Disclaimer Page 1553 The steering wheel offset gauge is a sticker that attaches to the steering wheel and the steering column cover. Place the sticker on the steering wheel when the steering wheel is straight. When you test-drive the vehicle, you can read how many millimeters the steering wheel is off-center. NOTE: If the vehicle is pulling, repairing the pull may correct the steering wheel offset. Page 4702 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Page 6286 Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box Page 8218 In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locater) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: - Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. Page 3346 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. Page 4562 Vehicle Speed Sensor: Locations Gauges - Component Location Index Page 1834 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. Page 5060 Throttle Body: Testing and Inspection NOTE: - Do not adjust the throttle stop screw. It is preset at the factory. - If the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) has been reported on, check for diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs). 1. With the engine off, check the throttle cable operation. The cable should move without binding or sticking. - If the cable operates OK, go to step 2. - If the cable binds or sticks, check it and its routing. If the cable is faulty, reroute it or replace it, and adjust it, then go to step 2. 2. Operate the throttle lever by hand to see if the throttle valve and/or shaft are too loose or too tight. - If there is excessive play in the throttle valve shaft, or any binding in the throttle valve at the fully closed position or fully open, replace the throttle body. - If the throttle valve and shaft are OK, go to step 3. 3. Connect the scan tool to the data link connector (DLC). 4. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 5. Check the throttle position with the scan tool. The reading should be about 10 % when the throttle is fully closed and about 90 % when the throttle is fully opened. If the throttle position is correct, the throttle body is OK. - If the throttle position is not correct, replace the throttle body. Page 3784 2. Remove the carpet hold-down clips on the door sill. 3. Remove the carpet hold-down clip in the passenger's footwell under the glove box. Pull back the carpet. 4. Remove the ECM cover mounting nuts. 5. Pivot the lower edge of the ECM cover off the mounting studs. Lift the upper edge of the cover off the mounting studs, then pull the cover down and back so it clears the evaporator drain tube. 6. Remove the two bolts mounting the ECM to the cover. Disconnect the ECM connectors, and remove the ECM. 7. Install the new ECM and the cover in the reverse order of removal. 8. Reinstall the carpet and the door sill trim. 9. Connect the PGM Tester to the data link connector (DLC). 10. Use the PGM Tester to program the customer's immobilizer key codes into the ECM. Verify that all the keys will start the engine. NOTE: Make sure the PGM Tester software is SN32OP or later. 11. Do the idle learn procedure: ^ Warm the engine to normal operating temperature. ^ Let the engine idle for 10 minutes. If the radiator fan comes on, do not include its running time in the 10 minutes. 12. Center-punch a completion mark above the eighth character of the engine compartment VIN. 13. For California residents: Fill out and give to your customer a Vehicle Emission Recall - Proof of Correction certificate. Advise them to keep this certificate as proof that the emissions recall was completed. Your customer will need to submit this certificate to the DMV if the DMV requests it. A supply of these salmon-colored certificates was sent to your service manager. If you need more, use reorder number Y0657. Page 4298 Fuel Supply System - Component Location Index Part 2 Page 1984 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: - Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest OHMS" range. Page 6239 All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416 etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector or by a capital letter (A, B, C etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Connector Views that shows the connector terminals wire colors connector cavity numbers and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints shown on diagram [8] . Except for the DLC (data link connector) disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554 for example means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Page 3339 Cavity Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity / terminal shown is # 6. Circuit Schematics Page 4020 Terminals - "T" Shielding Switches Fuses Page 4691 Fuel Injector: Diagnostic Aids Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Page 10222 Doors - Component Location Index Page 3469 Oxygen Sensor: Description and Operation Secondary Oxygen Sensor Secondary Heated Oxygen Sensor (Secondary HO2S) The secondary HO2S detects the oxygen content in the exhaust gas downstream of the Three Way Catalytic Converter (TWC) and sends signals to the ECM which varies the duration of fuel injection accordingly. To stabilize its output, the sensor has an internal heater. The secondary HO2S is installed behind the TWC. Page 5913 Brake Master Cylinder: Adjustments Master Cylinder Pushrod Clearance Adjustment Special Tools Required Pushrod adjustment gauge 07JAG-SD40100 NOTE: Master cylinder pushrod-to-piston clearance must be checked and adjustments made, if necessary, before installing the master cylinder. 1. Set the special tool (A) on the master cylinder body (B), push in the center shaft (C) until the top of it contacts the end of the secondary piston (D) by turning the adjusting nut (E). 2. Without disturbing the center shaft's position, install the special tool (A) backwards on the booster. 3. Install the master cylinder nuts (B), and tighten to the specified torque. 4. Connect the booster in-line with a vacuum gauge (C) 0 - 101 kPa (0 - 760 mm Hg, 30 inch Hg) to the booster's engine vacuum supply, and maintain an engine speed that will deliver 66 kPa (500 mm Hg, 20 inch Hg) vacuum. 5. With a feeler gauge (A), measure the clearance between the gauge body and the adjusting nut (B) as shown. If the clearance between the gauge body and the adjusting nut is 0.4 mm (0.02 inch), the pushrod-to-piston clearance is 0 mm. However, if the clearance between the gauge body and the adjusting nut is 0 mm, the pushrod-to-piston clearance is 0.4 mm (0.02 inch) or more. Therefore it must be adjusted and rechecked. Page 4039 EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 5674 Transmission Speed Sensor: Locations 13. Middle of Engine 15. Front Top of Transmission Page 3080 DTC P1679 thru P1860 Page 4171 18. Remove the EPS fuse from the under-hood fusel relay box. 19. With the transmission in neutral and the clutch released, run the engine at 3,500 rpm until the battery level indicator shows at least 50 percent charge. 20. Turn off the engine, then install the EPS fuse. 21. Enter the radio station presets, and set the clock. 22. Center-punch a completion mark above the sixth character of the engine compartment VIN. Locations Power Steering Relay: Locations Relay And Control Unit Locations - Dashboard 74. Under Right Side of Kick Panel Page 2288 Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution diagram set to get a more detailed picture of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Page 4459 PGM-FI System - Component Location Index Page 1701 Clutch Fluid: Fluid Type Specifications Clutch Fluid type ................................................................................................................................................ Always use only Honda DOT 3 brake fluid Page 4859 Wire Color Coding Distinct Of Circuit By Wire Base Color All wires have color-coded insulation. Wires belonging to a system's main harness will have a single color. Wires belonging to a system's sub-circuits will have a colored stripe. Striped wires use the codes found in the chart to show wire size and colors. Abbreviations are used to indicate wire color within a circuit diagram. Wire Color Abbreviations The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics: WHT................................... White YEL................................... Yellow BLK................................... Black BLU................................... Blue GRN................................... Green RED................................... Red ORN................................... Orange PNK................................... Pink BRN................................... Brown GRY................................... Gray PUR................................... Purple LT BLU................................... Light Blue LT GRN................................... Light Green The wire insulation has one color or one color with another color stripe. The second color is the stripe. How to Identify Connector Terminals How to Identify Connector Terminals Page 8090 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. Component Locations 100. Left Front Side of Battery Module Page 8388 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 4019 Splices Components Ground - "G" Page 8900 Diodes How to Identify Wiring Color-Coded Insulation Wire Color Page 3414 Crankshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation Camshaft Position (CMP) A and B (Top Dead Center (TDC) 1 and 2), and Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensors The CMPA (TDC 1) and CMPB (TDC 2) sensors detect the position of the No.1 cylinder as a reference for sequential fuel injection to each cylinder. The CKP sensor detects engine speed and determines ignition timing and timing for fuel injection of each cylinder. Locations Combination Switch: Locations Exterior Lights - Component Location Index Page 7516 Terminals - "T" Shielding Switches Fuses Page 7734 2. Soak a clean cloth in the cleaner. Insert the cloth between the seat belt and metal loop on the upper anchor. Use a credit card or similar item to help insert the cloth into the loop. Work the cloth back and forth to clean the dirt out of the inside of the loop. 3. Pull the seat belt out fully. Soak a clean cloth in the cleaner, and clean both sides of the seat belt webbing. Dry the webbing thoroughly with a clean cloth. Do not use a hair dryer or similar device. 4. Test the belt for proper retraction by pulling the latch plate down to the floor of the vehicle and then releasing it. The belt should retract fully in 4 seconds or less. Three-Point Passive Seat Belts 1. Clean the metal loop in the upper anchor as described for Three-Point Active Seat Belts. 2. Remove the door panel and the seat belt guide. Refer to the appropriate service manual. 3. Soak a clean cloth in the cleaner, and clean both sides of the seat belt webbing. Dry the webbing thoroughly with a clean cloth. Do not use a hair dryer or similar device. Page 6254 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. Specifications Page 8097 Alarm/Immobilizer Control Unit: Description and Operation How the Immobilizer System Circuit Works The immobilizer system is designed to prevent the car from being started without the owner's ignition key. If an attempt is made to start the car with any other key, the immobilizer system will disable the car's fuel supply. The immobilizer system consists of the ignition key, immobilizer receiver unit, immobilizer system indicator, PGM-FI main relay, fuel pump, fuel cut relay, and the ECM. With the ignition switch in ON (II) or START (III), the immobilizer receiver unit and the ECM receive an "ignition on" signal through fuse 7 and the PGM-FI main relay. The ECM then sends power to the ignition key transponder through the immobilizer receiver unit. The transponder then sends a coded signal back to the ECM through the receiver. If the signal is correct, the ECM will enable the car's fuel supply system by grounding the fuel cut relay. The immobilizer system indicator then flashes a code to indicate that the correct key has been inserted. If the ignition key signal is not correct, the ECM will disable the car's fuel supply system by not grounding the fuel cut relay. The immobilizer system indicator then flashes a code to indicate that an incorrect key has been inserted. Refer to the Body Electrical System for specific tests and troubleshooting procedures. Adjustments Front Door Striker: Adjustments Door Position and Door Striker Adjustment NOTE: - After installing the door, check for a flush fit with the body, then check for equal gaps between the front, rear, and bottom door edges and the body Check that the door and body edges are parallel. - Place the vehicle on a firm, level surface when adjusting the door. - Place a shop towel on the jack to prevent damage to the door when holding the door 1. Slightly loosen the striker mounting screws (A). 2. Adjust the door alignment in this sequence: - Adjust at the hinges (B): - Loosen the door mounting bolts (C) slightly, and move the door in or out until it's flush with the body - Remove the front inner fender, then slightly loosen the hinge mounting bolts (D), and move the door backward or forward, up or down as necessary to equalize the gaps. - Turn the door cushions (E), as necessary, to make the rear of the door flush with the body 3. Make sure the door and body edges are parallel, and the door is flush with the body. Tighten the door and hinge mounting bolts, and recheck. 4. Adjust the striker (F): - Move the striker in or out to make the latch fit tighter or looser. - Move the striker up or down to align it with the latch opening. 5. Make sure the door latches properly. Tighten the striker mounting screws, and recheck 6. Apply multipurpose grease to the pivot portions of the hinges (A) indicated by the arrows. 7. Apply touch-up paint to the hinge and door mounting bolts, and around the hinges. 8. Check for water leaks. 9. Test-drive and check for wind noise. Page 1666 1. Apply a force of 98 N (10 kgf, 22 lbs.), and measure the deflection at the mid point (A) between the water pump and crankshaft pulleys. If the belt is worn or damaged, replace it. If the belt needs adjustment, go to step 2. Adjustment 2. Loosen the idler pulley center nut (B). 3. Turn the adjusting bolt (C) to obtain the proper belt deflection, then retighten the idler pulley center nut. 4. Recheck the belt deflection. 5. If you installed a new belt, run the engine for five minutes, then readjust the belt to the used belt specification. Without A/C Water Pump-A/C Compressor Belt Inspection and Adjustment // Without A/C Special Tools Required - Belt tension gauge 07JGG-001010A Belt Tension Gauge Method Inspection 1. Remove the right rear splash shield. 2. Attach the belt tension gauge to the belt, and measure the tension. Follow the gauge manufacturer's instructions. If the belt is worn or damaged, replace it. If the belt needs adjustment, gotostep3. Adjustment 3. Loosen the idler pulley center nut (A). 4. Turn the adjusting bolt (B) to obtain the proper belt tension, then retighten the idler pulley center nut. 5. Recheck the belt tension. Page 8991 Headlamp Reminder Indicator: Testing and Inspection Lights-on, Key-in, Seat Belt Reminder, Key Light Timer, Indicator/Reminder Systems 1. Remove the gauge assembly. 2. Disconnect the gauge assembly 30P connector A and 22P connector B. 3. Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are making good contact. - If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system. - If the terminals are OK, go to step 4. 4. With the connectors still disconnected, make these input tests at the connector. Page 425 18. Remove the EPS fuse from the under-hood fusel relay box. 19. With the transmission in neutral and the clutch released, run the engine at 3,500 rpm until the battery level indicator shows at least 50 percent charge. 20. Turn off the engine, then install the EPS fuse. 21. Enter the radio station presets, and set the clock. 22. Center-punch a completion mark above the sixth character of the engine compartment VIN. Page 2450 Radiator Cooling Fan Motor: Component Tests and General Diagnostics Fan Motor Testing Test 1. Disconnect the 2P connector from the radiator fan motor. 2. Test the motor by connecting battery power to the No. 2 terminal and ground to the No. 1 terminal. 3. If the motor fails to run or does not run smoothly, replace it. Without A/C Radiator Fan Circuit Troubleshooting (without A/C) 1. Check the No. 11 (30 A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box and the No. 16 (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box. Are the fuses OK? YES - Go to step 2. NO -Replace the fuse(s) and recheck. 2. Remove the radiator fan relay from the under-hood fuse/relay box, and test it. Is the relay OK? YES - Go to step 3. NO - Replace the radiator fan relay. 3. Measure the voltage between the No. 1 terminal of the radiator fan relay 4P socket and body ground. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 4. NO - Replace the under-hood fuse/relay box. A Page 519 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. Page 6293 Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box Part 2 Page 9605 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 1508 4. With the connectors still disconnected, make this input test at the connector. - If the test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system. - If the input test proves OK, go to step 5. 5. Reconnect the connectors to the switch, and make these input tests at the appropriate connectors. - If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system. - If all the input tests prove OK, the power window master switch must be faulty, replace the switch. Page 9214 EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 6192 Disassembly/Reassembly Page 4266 Engine Control Module: Connector Views 137. MPI Module Page 2027 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 5485 Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Service and Repair Transmission Range Switch Replacement 1. Remove the air cleaner housing. 2. Remove the transmission range switch connector from the connector bracket (A), then disconnect it. 3. Remove the transmission range switch (B). 4. Shift the transmission into the [N] position by turning the control lever (A). Do not squeeze the end (B) of the control shaft tips together when shifting. If the tips are squeezed together it will cause a faulty signal or position due to the play between the control shaft and the switch. 5. Set the transmission range switch to the [N] position. The switch clicks in the [N] position. 6. Install the transmission range switch gently on the control shaft, then tighten the bolts. Do not move the switch when tightening the bolts. 7. Connect the connector securely, then install it on its bracket. Page 4145 DTC P1486 thru P1585 Page 8580 Power Door Lock Control Module: Testing and Inspection Power Door Locks Control Unit Input Test 1. Remove the driver's pocket. 2. Disconnect the 18P connector (B) from the keyless door lock control unit (A). 3. Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are making good contact. - If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system. - If the terminals look OK, go to step 4. Page 4813 Gauges - Component Location Index Page 10027 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. Starting System - Unable To Key In Ignition Switch Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: Technical Service Bulletins Starting System - Unable To Key In Ignition Switch Can't Turn Ignition Switch? Check for Locked Steering Got a service customer complaining he or she can't turn the ignition switch to start the engine? The reason could just be the steering column lock pin is engaged with the front wheels turned. Here's what typically happens: Some folks use the steering wheel to help support themselves while climbing in or out of the vehicle. This is very common among elderly or disabled drivers. Doing this turns the front wheels, which twists the tires against the ground. The twisted tires apply torque to the steering column. With the ignition switch in LOCK (0), the steering column lock pin is engaged. But the applied torque on the steering column binds the lock pin, making it tough to turn the ignition switch. The ignition switch won't turn to ON (II) if the lock pin isn't disengaged from the steering column. Tell your customer there's nothing wrong with the ignition switch itself. All he or she needs to do is turn the steering wheel from side to side while turning the switch. This usually releases the lock pin so the engine can be started. In some cases, though, your customer may need to give a good tug on the wheel. This could easily happen when parking on a hill and the wheels are turned sharply before the engine is shut off. Testing and Inspection Windshield Washer Control Module: Testing and Inspection Wiper/Washers Control Circuit Input Test 1. Remove the gauge assembly. 2. Disconnect the 22P connector from the gauge assembly. 3. Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are making good contact. - If the terminals are bent, loose, or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system. - If the terminals look OK, go to step 4. 4. With the connector still disconnected, make these input tests at the connector. - If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system. - If all the input tests prove OK, replace the printed circuit board in the gauge assembly. SRS Components Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Description and Operation SRS Components SRS Components The SRS is a safety device which, when used in conjunction with the seat belt, is designed to help protect the driver and passenger in a frontal impact exceeding a certain set limit. The system consists of the SRS unit, including a safing sensor and an impact sensor (A), the cable reel (B), the driver's airbag (C) and the passenger's airbag (D). The seat belt tensioner (E) is linked with the SRS airbags to further increase the effectiveness of the seat belt. In a front-end collision, the tensioner instantly retracts the belt firmly to secure the occupants in their seats. Page 1086 Fuel Gauge Sender: Service and Repair Fuel Gauge Sending Unit Test/Replacement Fuel Gauge Sending Unit Test/Replacement Special Tools Required Adjustable ring wrench 07XAA-001010A NOTE: This article has been updated as per TSB SN030415. NOTE: For the fuel gauge system circuit diagram, refer to the Gauges Circuit Diagram. Test 1. Check the No.6 fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box before testing. 2. Remove the middle floor panel. 3. Remove the access panel from the floor. 4. Turn the ignition switch OFF, then disconnect the fuel pump 5P connector. 5. Measure voltage between the fuel pump 5P connector terminals No.1 and No.2 with the ignition switch ON (II). There should be Battery Voltage. - If the voltage is as specified, go to step 6. - If the voltage is not as specified, check for: an open in the YEL/BLK or BLK wire. - poor ground (G502). 6. Turn the ignition switch OFF. Remove the No.18 (7.5 A) fuse from the under-dash fuse/relay box for at least 10 seconds, then reinstall it. 7. Install a 2 Ohms resistor between the fuel pump 5P connector terminals No.1 and No.2, then turn the ignition switch ON (II). 8. Check that the pointer of the fuel gauge starts moving toward the "F" mark. - If the pointer of the fuel gauge does not move at all, replace the gauge. - If the gauge is OK, inspect the fuel gauge sending unit. NOTE: Turn the ignition switch OFF before the pointer reaches "F" on the gauge dial. Failure to do so may damage the fuel gauge. - The fuel gauge is a bobbin (cross-coil) type, hence the fuel level is continuously indicated even when the ignition switch is OFF, and the pointer moves more slowly than that of a bimetal type. Replacement 1. Remove the fuel tank. 2. Disconnect the quick-connect fittings from the fuel pump. Page 6163 Clutch Switch: Testing and Inspection Clutch Pedal Position Switch Signal Circuit Troubleshooting M/T model 1. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 2. Measure voltage between ECM connector terminals B14 and B20. Is there about 5 V? YES - Go to step 3. NO - Go to step 5. 3. Press the clutch pedal. 4. Measure voltage between ECM connector terminals B14 and B20. Is voltage less than 1.0 V? YES - The clutch pedal position switch signal is OK. NO - Go to step 12. 5. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 6. Disconnect the clutch pedal position switch 2P connector. 7. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 8. Measure voltage between ECM connector terminals B14 and B20. Page 7622 Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Service and Repair Connector Disconnection / Connection Disconnecting System Connectors Before removing the airbag or SRS related devices (the SRS unit, the cable reel and the seat belt tensioner connector), disconnecting connectors from SRS related devices, or removing the dashboard or the steering column, disconnect the airbag connectors and seat belt tensioner connectors to prevent accidental deployment. Turn the ignition switch OFF, disconnect the negative cable from the battery, and wait at least 3 minutes before beginning the following procedures. - Before disconnecting the SRS unit connector A (18P) (A) from the SRS unit, disconnect both airbag 2P connectors (C, D) and both seat belt tensioner 2P connectors (E, F). - Before disconnecting the cable reel 2P connector (B), disconnect the driver's airbag 2P connector (C). 1. Disconnect the battery negative cable, and wait at least three minutes. Driver's Airbag 2. Remove the access panel from the steering wheel, then disconnect the driver's airbag 2P connector (A) from the cable reel. Passenger's Airbag Page 5805 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. Page 2823 IMA battery level indicator (BAT) will not indicate the state of charge when you start the engine. To correct this, start the engine, and hold it between 3,500 - 4,000 rpm without load (in park or neutral) until the IMA battery level indicator (BAT) functions properly. - Follow these instructions when you inspect or service the IMA system. - If the IMA system indicator is on, troubleshoot the IMA system first. - Wear insulated gloves whenever you inspect or service the IMA system. Be sure to check the gloves for pin holes, tears, and other damage. - Turn the battery module switch OFF, and secure it in the OFF position with the locking cover before you work on the IMA system. - Wait at least 5 minutes for the condensers to discharge after you turn off the battery module switch. - Before you disconnect the high voltage cable terminals, make sure the voltage between them is about 0 V when measured with a voltmeter. - When working on or around parts with no insulation, be sure to use insulated tools to prevent short circuiting. - The motor rotor contains very strong magnets and should be handled with special care. People with pacemakers or other magnetically sensitive medical devices should not handle the rotor. - Use the special tool to remove or install the rotor. WARNING: If you try to install the rotor by hand, it will suddenly be pulled toward the stator with great force which could cause serious hand or finger injury. Always use the special tool to remove or install the rotor. - Do not use the rotor if the fiberglass band around it is damaged. If the band breaks during use, magnets may come loose from the rotor. - Keep the rotor away from magnetically sensitive devices such as credit or ID cards with magnetic strips on them. - After disconnecting the high voltage terminals, busbar, etc., insulate the connections with electrical tape. - Make two signs saying, "WORKING ON HIGH VOLTAGE PARTS. DO NOT TOUCH!" Attach one to the steering wheel, and set the other one near the parts you're working on. Turning off power to the high voltage circuit Follow this procedure before you work on or near any high voltage components. Follow it exactly, otherwise, you may injure yourself or damage equipment. 1. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 2. Remove the cargo floor mat. Page 3430 PGM-FI System - Component Location Index Page 10062 In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locater) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: - Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. Page 9927 Combination Switch: Testing and Inspection Combination Light Switch Test/Replacement 1. Remove the steering column covers. 2. Disconnect the 16P connector (B) from the combination light switch (A). 3. Remove the two screws, then pull out the switch. 4. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table. If the continuity check is not as specified, replace the switch. Page 2958 Failed Part: P/N 1K000-PHM-000 Defect Code: 03214 Symptom Code: 03205 Skill Level: Repair Technician INSPECTION PROCEDURE 1. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 2. Remove the cargo floor mat (see page 20-44 of the 2000-04 Insight Service Manual). (In ISIS, use the keyword FLOOR MAT, and select Interior Trim Removal/Installation - Cargo Area from the list.) 3. Remove the battery module switch cover (two bolts), then remove the locking cover from the switch. 4. Flip the battery module switch to OFF. Reinstall the locking cover. 5. Wait at least 5 minutes to let the capacitors in the system discharge. Page 9909 - If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system. - If all the input tests prove OK, go to step 5. 5. Connect the connectors to the gauge assembly and make these input tests at the connector. - If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system. - If all the input tests prove OK, replace the printed circuit board in the gauge assembly. Locations Crankshaft Position Sensor: Locations PGM-FI System - Component Location Index Page 3996 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. Service and Repair Gauge Bulb Replacement Page 5420 130. Transmission Housing (CVT) Page 4163 Page 4545 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Emissions/Engine Controls - MIL ON/DTC P1457 (EVAP) Engine Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins Emissions/Engine Controls - MIL ON/DTC P1457 (EVAP) 03-001 January 28, 2003 Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED MIL Comes On With DTC P1457: EVAP Bypass Solenoid Valve Failure SYMPTOM The MIL is on, and DTC P1457 [leak detected in EVAP control system (EVAP control canister system)] is set. PROBABLE CAUSE The EVAP bypass solenoid valve can fail due to corrosion. The solenoid valve may get water inside. If the water contains road salt, the solenoid windings could corrode, causing the valve to fail. In a few rare instances, the corrosion could be severe enough to cause an internal short in the solenoid valve, which could damage the ECM/PCM. If this happens, both the bypass solenoid valve and the ECM/PCM would need to be replaced. Vehicles driven in the Northeastern part of the U.S. are more likely to have this problem because of the salting of roads during the winter months. Vehicles driven where salt is not used on the roads are much less likely to have this problem. VEHICLES AFFECTED 1998-02 Accord 1998-00 Civic 1998-01 CR-V 2000-02 Insight 1999-03 Odyssey 2003 Pilot 2000-03 S2000 CORRECTIVE ACTION Test and, if necessary, replace the EVAP bypass solenoid valve. Replace the ECM/PCM if needed. PARTS INFORMATION Refer to the parts catalog for the appropriate part number and Honda code. WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Failed Part: EVAP Bypass Solenoid Valve: Page 2682 Page 10156 - Taillight relay Page 8083 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 6216 Starting System - Component Location Index Campaign - Park Brake Lever Update Technical Service Bulletin # 03-030 Date: 030515 Campaign - Park Brake Lever Update 03-030 May 15, 2003 Applies To: 2000 Insight - ALL 2001 Insight with M/T - From VIN JHMZE1...1T000001 thru JHMZE1...1T001923 Product Update: Insight Parking Brake Lever BACKGROUND A weak support rod in the parking brake lever can cause the release button to stick. This condition makes the parking brake difficult to set, but it does not affect normal braking while driving. CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION All owners of affected vehicles will be mailed a notification of this product update. A copy of the customer notification is shown in this service bulletin. Not all of the vehicles in the VIN range are affected by this campaign, and some have already been repaired. Before beginning work on a vehicle, verify its eligibility by checking one of these items: ^ The customer has a notification letter. ^ The vehicle is shown on your campaign responsibility report. ^ The vehicle is shown as eligible on an IN VIN status inquiry. If any affected vehicles are in your new or used vehicle inventory, repair them as described in this service bulletin. CORRECTIVE ACTION Replace the parking brake lever. PARTS INFORMATION Parking Brake Lever: P/N 47105-S3Y-033ZA, H/C 6819478 WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION Operation Number: 412108 Flat Rate Time: 0.3 hour Failed Part: P/N 47105-S3Y-033ZA H/C 6819478 Defect Code: 5BK Contention Code: L89 Template ID: 03-030A Skill Level: Repair Technician REPAIR PROCEDURE Page 7456 1. Before adding any leak-detection dye, check to see if there is dye in the system now. ^ Check for a label in the engine compartment indicating that fluorescent leak-detection dye has been added to the system. ^ Dye may have been added even though no label is present. To confirm this: - Put on the fluorescence-enhancing glasses, and remove the low-side service port sealing cap. - Direct the ultraviolet lamp into the valve stem area. If dye has been previously added, the lubricant traces will have a bright yellow fluorescent glow. You may need to press the port's valve stem briefly to release some lubricant and dye from the system. ^ If there is no dye in the system, go to step 2. ^ If there is dye in the system, go to step 5. Do not add more dye. 2. Add the dye. NOTE: Air and moisture must be evacuated from the universal connect set if it is being used for the first time, or if it has been stored with the control valve open. If the air and moisture have been evacuated, go to step 3; otherwise do the following: (a) Attach the empty dye capsule (provided in the dye kit) to the control valve fitting. (b) Attach the service valve fitting (provided in the kit) to the empty dye capsule. (c) Attach the low-side hose of the A/C recovery and charging station, and open the quick coupler's hand-wheel valve. Then open the control valve (black knob) on the universal connect set. (d) Following the manufacturer's instructions for your recovery and charging station, evacuate the universal connect set for approximately 3 minutes. (e) When evacuation is complete, be sure the set's control valve is closed (finger tight), and disconnect the NC recovery and charging station. (f) Remove the service valve fitting and the empty dye capsule from the set, and store them for future use. NOTE: ^ Check the refrigerant charge level. There must be enough refrigerant in the system to operate the A/C compressor and to circulate refrigerant oil. ^ If the refrigerant charge is too low, recover the remaining amount and recharge the system before adding any dye. (g) Start the vehicle and operate the A/C system. Follow your A/C refrigerant recovery and charging station's operating instructions for low-side charging to install the dye. * NOTE: Only 0.05 lb (0.02 kg) of refrigerant is needed to push the dye into the A/C system.* (h) Once the refrigerant charge is programmed, open the control valve on the set to allow the dye to enter the system. (i) After the dye capsule clears, allow the low-side of the A/C system to reach its lowest operating pressure, then quickly close both the service equipment's low-side coupler valve and the control valve on the set. (j) Remove the set from the vehicle by releasing its quick coupler. Remove the empty dye capsule from the service valve fitting. Return the hose, control valve, and service-valve fitting to the storage case. * NOTE: Store the hose with the control valve closed. This will retain a small amount of refrigerant in the hose so it does not have to be evacuated the next time you use it.* (k) Fill out an identification label (provided in the kit), and attach it to a location near the A/C charge label. Page 4375 126. Below Right Side of Engine Page 6256 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. Page 7255 Compressor Clutch Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relay Test Normally-open type A: 1. Turn the battery module switch OFF, and measure the voltage. 2. Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is disconnected. A/C compressor clutch relay - Air fuel ratio sensor relay - Condenser fan relay - Daytime running lights relay (Canada) - Headlight relay 1 - Headlight relay 2 - High speed battery module fan control relay - High speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - High voltage conductor control relay - Horn relay - Ignition hold relay - Low speed battery module fan control relay - Low speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - Power window relay - Radiator fan relay - Rear window defogger relay - Reverse relay - Starter cut relay Diagram Information and Instructions Brake Warning Indicator: Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System Terminal Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown below is #6. Page 4215 DTC P1486 thru P1585 Page 9154 Connectors - "C" Technician Safety Information Air Bag Control Module: Technician Safety Information Be careful not to bump or impact the SRS unit or the side impact sensors whenever the ignition switch is ON (II), or at least for three minutes after the ignition switch is turned OFF. During installation or replacement, be careful not to bump (by impact wrench, hammer, etc.) the area around the SRS unit and the side impact sensor. The airbags could accidentally deploy and cause damage or injury. After a collision in which the airbags were deployed, replace the SRS unit. After a collision in which the side airbag was deployed, replace the side impact sensor on the side where the side airbag deployed and the SRS unit. After a collision in which the airbags or the side airbags did not deploy, inspect for any damage or any deformation on the SRS unit and the side impact sensors. If there is any damage, replace the SRS unit and/or the side impact sensors. Do not disassemble the SRS unit or the side impact sensors. Turn the ignition switch OFF, disconnect the battery negative cable and wait at least three minutes before beginning installation or replacement of the SRS unit, and disconnect the connectors from the SRS unit. Be sure the SRS unit and side impact sensors are installed securely with the mounting bolts torqued to 9.8 Nm (1.0 kg.m, 7.2 lb.ft) Do not spill water or oil on the SRS unit or the side impact sensors and keep them away from dust. Store the SRS unit and the side impact sensors in a cool (less than 104°F / 40°C) and dry (less than 80% relative humidity, no moisture) area. Page 7561 Cabin Temperature Sensor / Switch: Testing and Inspection In-car Temperature Sensor Test Check for a change in resistance by heating or cooling the sensor with a hair drier. Compare the resistance reading between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals of the in-car temperature sensor with the specifications shown in the graph; the resistance should be within the specifications. Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box Page 203 Horn Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relay Test Normally-open type A: 1. Turn the battery module switch OFF, and measure the voltage. 2. Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is disconnected. A/C compressor clutch relay - Air fuel ratio sensor relay - Condenser fan relay - Daytime running lights relay (Canada) - Headlight relay 1 - Headlight relay 2 - High speed battery module fan control relay - High speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - High voltage conductor control relay - Horn relay - Ignition hold relay - Low speed battery module fan control relay - Low speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - Power window relay - Radiator fan relay - Rear window defogger relay - Reverse relay - Starter cut relay Page 7672 61. MES Connector Page 2264 Timing Chain: Service and Repair Cam Chain Installation Installation Special Tools Required ^ Holder handle 07JAB-001020A ^ Holder attachment, HEX 50 mm, offset 07MAB-PY3010A ^ Socket, 17 mm 07JAA-001010A or a commercially available 17 mm socket 1. Set the crankshaft sprocket so that the No.1 piston is at top dead center (TDC). Align the TDC mark (A) on the crankshaft purser plate with the pointer (B) on the cylinder block. 2. Install the cam chain with the colored piece (A) aligned with the punch mark (B) on the crankshaft sprocket. 3. Clean and dry the oil pump mating surfaces. Page 4022 Wire Color Coding Distinct Of Circuit By Wire Base Color All wires have color-coded insulation. Wires belonging to a system's main harness will have a single color. Wires belonging to a system's sub-circuits will have a colored stripe. Striped wires use the codes found in the chart to show wire size and colors. Abbreviations are used to indicate wire color within a circuit diagram. Wire Color Abbreviations The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics: WHT................................... White YEL................................... Yellow BLK................................... Black BLU................................... Blue GRN................................... Green RED................................... Red ORN................................... Orange PNK................................... Pink BRN................................... Brown GRY................................... Gray PUR................................... Purple LT BLU................................... Light Blue LT GRN................................... Light Green The wire insulation has one color or one color with another color stripe. The second color is the stripe. How to Identify Connector Terminals How to Identify Connector Terminals Page 7134 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Page 3859 Page 10066 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. Locations Headlamp Relay: Locations Relay And Control Unit Location - Engine Compartment Diagram Information and Instructions Brake Warning Indicator: Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System Terminal Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown below is #6. ECM/PCM Terminal Values Engine Control Module: Testing and Inspection ECM/PCM Terminal Values ECM/PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector A (32P) Part 1 Page 3255 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. Page 4485 Diodes How to Identify Wiring Color-Coded Insulation Wire Color Page 6529 Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box Locations Instrument Panel View Page 8877 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: Page 4464 8. Connect the GRN test harness clip (D) to the positive probe of a voltmeter. Is there 5 V or more? YES - Go to step 9. NO - Repair short in the BLU/WHT wire between the VSS and the ECM. 9. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 10. Connect the other test harness connector (A) to the VSS (B). 11. Raise the front of the vehicle, and make sure it is securely supported. 12. Put the vehicle in neutral with the ignition switch ON (II). 13. Slowly rotate one wheel with the other wheel blocked. Does voltage pulse from 0 to approx. 5 V or more? YES - Go to step 14. NO - Replace the VSS. 14. Disconnect the 30P connector "A" from the gauge assembly. 15. Connect a voltmeter between the BLU/WHT wire and body ground. 16. Slowly rotate one wheel with the other wheel blocked. Page 4722 4. Align the quick-connect fittings with the pipe (A), and align the retainer (B) locking pawls with the connector (C) grooves. Then press the quick-connect fittings onto the pipe until both retainer pawls lock with a clicking sound. NOTE: If it is hard to connect, put a small amount of new engine oil on the pipe end. 5. Make sure the connection is secure and that the pawls are firmly locked into place; check visually and by pulling the connector. 6. Reconnect the battery negative cable, and turn the ignition switch ON (II). The fuel pump will run for about two seconds, and fuel pressure will rise. Repeat two or three times, and check that there is no leakage in the fuel supply system. Page 3323 Fuel Shut-off Solenoid Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relay Test Normally-open type A: 1. Turn the battery module switch OFF, and measure the voltage. 2. Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is disconnected. A/C compressor clutch relay - Air fuel ratio sensor relay - Condenser fan relay - Daytime running lights relay (Canada) - Headlight relay 1 - Headlight relay 2 - High speed battery module fan control relay - High speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - High voltage conductor control relay - Horn relay - Ignition hold relay - Low speed battery module fan control relay - Low speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - Power window relay - Radiator fan relay - Rear window defogger relay - Reverse relay - Starter cut relay - Taillight relay Page 4125 9. Connect the PGM Tester to the data link connector (DLC). 10. Use the PGM Tester to program the customer's immobilizer key codes into the ECM. Verity that all the keys will start the engine. 11. Center-punch a completion mark above the first character (J) of the engine compartment VIN. Disclaimer Page 6030 Clutch Switch: Testing and Inspection Clutch Pedal Position Switch Signal Circuit Troubleshooting M/T model 1. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 2. Measure voltage between ECM connector terminals B14 and B20. Is there about 5 V? YES - Go to step 3. NO - Go to step 5. 3. Press the clutch pedal. 4. Measure voltage between ECM connector terminals B14 and B20. Is voltage less than 1.0 V? YES - The clutch pedal position switch signal is OK. NO - Go to step 12. 5. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 6. Disconnect the clutch pedal position switch 2P connector. 7. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 8. Measure voltage between ECM connector terminals B14 and B20. Page 4676 Fuel Injector: Locations PGM-FI System - Component Location Index Part 2 Page 3878 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 7846 Alarm/Immobilizer Control Unit: Diagnostic Aids Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Page 4973 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 1801 Fuse: Connector Locations Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box Page 9794 EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 6550 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. Page 8578 38. Under Left Side of Dash 43. Under Left Side of Dash (Honda Accessory) Page 2453 3. Measure the voltage between the No. 1 terminal of the radiator fan relay 4P socket and body ground. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 4. NO - Replace the under-hood fuse/relay box. 4. Connect the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals of the radiator fan relay 4P socket with a jumper wire. Does the radiator fan run? YES - Go to step 5. NO - Repair open in the BLU/BLK wire between the under-hood fuse/relay box and the radiator fan. 5. Disconnect the jumper, and turn the ignition switch ON (II). Check for voltage between the No. 3 terminal of the radiator fan relay 4P socket and body ground. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 6. NO - Check for an open in the BLK/YEL wire between the under-hood fuse/relay box and the under-dash fuse/relay boxes 6. Reinstall the radiator fan relay. 7. Disconnect the radiator fan switch connector. Jump terminals 1 and 2 to see if the fan runs. Does the fan run? YES - Replace the radiator fan switch. NO - Go to step 8. Page 6693 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. Page 9859 4. Make these input tests at the connector. - If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system. - If all the input tests prove OK, the control unit must be faulty; replace it. Page 8899 Terminals - "T" Shielding Switches Fuses Page 4821 3. Using the tool, loosen the fuel pump locknut (A), and remove the fuel pump. 4. Measure the resistance between the No.1 and No.2 terminals with the float at E (EMPTY), 1/2 (HALF FULL), and F (FULL) positions. If you do not get the given readings, replace the fuel gauge sending unit (A). 5. Install the pants in the reverse order of removal with a new base gasket and new quick connect retainers, then check these items: Page 9354 116. PGM-FI Main Relay And A/T Reverse Relay (CVT) Page 1486 Transmission Speed Sensor: Locations 13. Middle of Engine 15. Front Top of Transmission Page 3110 PARTS INFORMATION Engine Control Module: P/N 06380-PHM-A00, H/C 6441117 WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Carefully remove the passenger's side door sill trim. 2. Remove the two carpet hold-down clips on the door sill. 3. Remove the carpet hold-down clip in the passenger's footwell under the glove box. Pull back the carpet. 4. Remove the ECM cover mounting nuts. 5. Pivot the lower edge of the ECM cover off the mounting studs. Lift the upper edge of the cover off the mounting studs, then pull the cover down and back so it clears the evaporator drain tube. 6. Remove the two bolts mounting the ECM to the cover. Disconnect the ECM connectors. 7. Install the new ECM in the reverse order of removal. 8. Reinstall the carpet and the door sill trim. Page 7125 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: - Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest OHMS" range. A/T - Vehicle Speed Sensor Installation Precautions Transmission Speed Sensor: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Vehicle Speed Sensor Installation Precautions Install VSS Properly to Avoid Reman A/T Damage We can't emphasize enough how important it is to follow, to the letter, the installation instructions that come with a reman A/T. These instructions help ensure that you avoid damaging the A/T and score a successful repair. This is particularly true when it comes to installing the vehicle speed sensor (VSS). Step 6 of the instructions tells you to make sure its gear is fully engaged and the VSS is fully seated before you tighten the retaining bolt. If you don't install the VSS properly, the speed sensor gear will get stripped and the A/T will be seriously damaged. So don't take risks with your customer's vehicle. Always follow these instructions to the letter. You can rest assured you're doing the job right. Page 2627 7. Remove the under-cover (two bolts, two clips, and three screw clips). 8. Remove the IPU (intelligent power unit) lid (six Torx bolts and 17 hex bolts). 9. Measure voltage at the junction board terminals. ^ If the reading is 30 V or less, the capacitors are discharged enough for you to continue; go to step 10. ^ If the reading is more than 30 V, there is a problem with the IMA system. Troubleshoot the system using the IMA section of the service manual, then continue with this procedure. 10. Lift out the battery module foam insert. Page 8712 30. Clutch Pedal Position Switch (M/T) Page 9574 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Locations Ignition Hold Relay: Locations Relay And Control Unit Locations - Floor And Rear Page 5140 - Taillight relay Page 8236 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 5791 Connectors - "C" Page 3307 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. Page 6644 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Service and Repair Tie Rod Boot: Service and Repair Ball Joint Boot Replacement 1. Remove the boot set ring and boot from the tie-rod end. 2. Wipe the old grease of the ball pin. 3. Pack the lower area of the ball pin (A) with fresh multipurpose grease. 4. Pack the inside of the new boot (B) and lip (C) with fresh multipurpose grease. 5. Note these items when installing new grease: - Keep grease off the boot installation section (D) and the tapered section (E) if the ball pin. - Do not allow dust, dirt, or other foreign materials to enter the boot. 5. Using flat-blade screwdrivers (A), expand the boot set ring (B) as shown, and set it in the groove of the boot. Take care not to damage the boot with the tips of the flat-blade screwdrivers. Dust Seal Holder and Boots Replacement Note during replacement, do not allow dust, dirt or other foreign materials to enter the gearbox. 1. Remove the steering gearbox. 2. Remove the boot bands (A) and discard them. 3. Pull the boots (B) and dust seal holder (C) away from the ends of the gearbox. 4. Apply multipurpose grease to the sliding surface of the slider guide (D). 5. Apply multipurpose grease to the entire sliding surface (where the slider guide moves) on the housing (E). 6. Install the slider guide on the steering rack by aligning the bolt holes. 7. Clean off any grease or contamination from the grooves (F) around on the housing. 8. Pass the left boot, dust seal holder and the right boot over the steering gearbox in this order. Then, set the boots in the corresponding installation grooves in the gearbox housing and the dust seal holder. Page 1611 10. Measure voltage between ECM connector terminals A31 and B20. Is there battery voltage? YES - Replace the idle stop switch. NO - Go to step 11. 11. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 12. Disconnect ECM connector A (32P). 13. Check for continuity between ECM connector terminal A31 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Repair short in the wire between the ECM (A31) and the idle stop switch. NO - Update the ECM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM, replace the original ECM. 14. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 15. Disconnect the idle stop switch 2P connector. 16. Check for continuity between the idle stop switch 2P connector terminals No.1 and No.2. Is there continuity? YES - Go to step 17. NO - Replace the idle stop switch. Page 2714 4. Remove the switch cover from the battery module, then remove the locking cover from the battery module switch. 5. Turn off the battery module switch. Reinstall the locking cover on the switch, and remove the 5 mm bolt on the side of the switch. 6. Wait at least 5 minutes to allow the capacitors to discharge. 7. Remove the three clips from the middle bulkhead carpet. 8. Remove the under-cover (two bolts, two clips, and three screw clips). Air Bag Disarming and Arming Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Service and Repair Air Bag Disarming and Arming General Precautions Please read the following precautions carefully before performing the airbag system service. Observe the instructions described or the airbags could accidentally deploy and cause damage or injuries. Except when performing electrical inspections, always turn the ignition switch OFF and disconnect the negative cable from the battery, and wait at least three minutes before beginning work. NOTE: The contents in the memory is not erased even if the ignition switch is turned OFF or the battery cables are disconnected from the battery. Use the replacement parts which are manufactured to the same standards as the original parts and quality. Do not install used SRS parts from another vehicle. Use only new parts when making SRS repairs. Carefully inspect any SRS part before you install it. Do not install any part that shows signs of being dropped or improperly handled, such as dents, cracks or deformation. Before removing any of the SRS parts (including the disconnection of the connectors), always disconnect the SRS connector. Use only a digital multimeter to check the system. If it is not a Honda multimeter, make sure its output is 10 mA (0.01 A) or less when switched to the lowest value in the ohmmeter range. A tester with a higher output could cause accidental deployment and possible injury. Do not put objects on the front passenger's airbag. The original radio has a coded theft protection circuit. Be sure to get the customer's radio code before disconnecting the battery cable. Electrical Specifications Page 7285 First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Service and Repair Wheel Cylinder: Service and Repair Rear Wheel Cylinder Replacement NOTE: ^ Do not spill brake fluid on the vehicle; it may damage the paint; if brake fluid does contact the paint, wash it off immediately with water. ^ To prevent spills, cover the hose joints with rags or shop towels. ^ Use only a Honda wheel cylinder special bolt. 1. Remove the brake shoes. 2. Disconnect the brake line (A) from the wheel cylinder (B). 3. Remove the bolt (C) and the wheel cylinder from the backing plate. 4. Apply Three Bond 1109G sealant (E) between the wheel cylinder (B) and backing plate (D), and install the wheel cylinder. 5. Install the removed parts in the reverse order of removal. 6. Bleed the brake system. 7. Check for leaks at the line joint and bleed screw, and retighten if necessary. Page 4184 DTC P0A94 thru P0157 Connector Views 111. Rear Window Defogger, Fuel Cut, Radiator Fan Main (Climate Control) And Intermittent Wiper Relays Page 9384 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. Page 6311 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 3146 DTC P2240 thru U0073 Page 404 DTC P1253 thru P1459 Page 6292 Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box Part 1 Page 4006 Knock Sensor: Description and Operation Knock Sensor The knock control system adjusts the ignition timing to minimize knock. Page 7119 Cavity Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity / terminal shown is # 6. Circuit Schematics Page 5927 Parking Brake Cable: Adjustments Parking Brake Check and Adjustment Check 1. Pull the parking brake lever (A) with 196 N (20 kgf, 44 lbs.) of force to fully apply the parking brake. The parking brake lever should be locked within the specified number of clicks (B). Lever locked clicks: 4 - 8 2. Adjust the parking brake if the lever clicks are not within the specification. Adjustment NOTE: After servicing the rear brake shoes, loosen the parking brake adjusting nut, start the engine, and press the brake pedal several times to set the self-adjusting brake before adjusting the parking brake. 1. Block the front wheels, then raise the rear of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper location. 2. Remove the console. 3. Pull the parking brake lever up one click. 4. Tighten the adjusting nut until the parking brakes drag slightly when the rear wheels are turned. 5. Release the parking brake lever fully, and check that the parking brakes do not drag when the rear wheels are turned. Readjust if necessary. 6. Make sure the parking brakes are fully applied when the parking brake lever is pulled up fully. 7. Reinstall the console. Page 8026 In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locater) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: - Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. Locations Heated Glass Element Switch: Locations Rear Window Defogger Page 7289 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: Page 4209 DTC P0158 thru P0400 Page 1877 EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 6243 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: - Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest OHMS" range. Page 3886 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 7636 - If the red light on the tool comes on, the airbag or seat belt tensioner is ready to be deployed. 10. Push the tool's deployment switch. The airbags and tensioners should deploy (deployment is both highly audible and visible: a loud noise and rapid inflation of the bag, followed by slow deflation). If the airbags deploy and the green light on the tool comes on, continue with this procedure. - If an airbag doesn't deploy, yet the green light comes ON, its igniter is defective. Go to Disposal of Damaged Components. - During deployment the airbag can become hot enough to burn you. Wait 30 minutes after deployment before touching the airbag. 11. Dispose of the complete airbag. No part of it can be reused. Place it in a sturdy plastic bag (A) and seal it securely. Deploying the Airbags/Tensioner (Outside Vehicle) Airbag Disposal Special Tool Required Deployment tool 07HAZ-SG00500 Before scrapping any airbags (including those in a whole vehicle to be scrapped), the airbags must be deployed. If the vehicle is still within the warranty period, the Honda District Service Manager must give approval and/or special instructions before you deploy the airbags (and seat belt tensioners). Only after the airbags (and seat belt tensioners) have been deployed (as the result of vehicle collision, for example), can they be scrapped. If the airbags (and seat belt tensioners) appear intact (not deployed), treat them with extreme caution. Follow this procedure. Deploying Components Out of the Vehicle If an intact airbag or seat belt tensioner has been removed from a scrapped vehicle, or has been found defective or damaged during transit, storage, or service, it should be deployed as follows: 1. Confirm that the special tool is functioning properly by following the check procedure or on the tool label. 2. Position the airbag face up, outdoors on flat ground at least 30 feet (10 meters) from any obstacles or people. 3. Follow steps 8, 9, 10 and 11 of the in-vehicle deployment procedure. Deployment Tool Check Procedure Deployment Tool Check 1. Connect the yellow clips to both switch protector handles on the tool; connect the tool to a battery. 2. Push the operation switch: green means the tool is OK; red means the tool is faulty. 3. Disconnect the battery and the yellow clips. Page 3355 EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 7216 Blower Motor Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relay Test Normally-open type B: Blower Motor Relay, Type 1: Blower Motor Relay, Type 2: Blower Motor High Relay 1. Turn the battery module switch OFF, and measure the voltage. 2. Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 3 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 2 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 3 terminals when power is disconnected. Page 1865 Relay Box: Diagnostic Aids Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Page 57 180. Unlock Relay (Honda Accessory) Page 1185 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. Page 7355 Control Assembly: Service and Repair Heater Control Panel Heater Control Panel Removal and Installation 1. Remove the instrument panel with the heater control panel. 2. Remove the self-tapping screws and the heater control panel (A) from the instrument panel (B). 3. Install the control panel in the reverse order of removal, and note these items. - Be sure to install the short black self-tapping screw in the position shown. If a longer screw is used, it will damage the instrument panel. - After installation, operate the control panel controls to see whether it works properly. 4. Run the self-diagnosis function to confirm that there are no problems in the system. Page 9370 Connectors - "C" Page 4188 DTC P0750 thru P0977 Diagram Information and Instructions Key Reminder Switch: Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System Terminal Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown below is #6. Page 1467 Shift Interlock Switch: Service and Repair Park Pin Switch Replacement 1. Remove the front console. 2. Remove the A/T gear position indicator panel light, and remove the bulb (A) from the socket (B). 3. Separate the A/T gear position indicator panel from the shift lever bracket base (C). 4. Disconnect the park pin switch connector (D), and remove it from the bracket base. 5. Remove the park pin switch clamp (E) and the park pin switch (F). 6. Install the new park pin switch in the shift lever bracket base, and install the park pin switch clamp to secure it. 7. Install the removed parts in the reverse order of removal. Page 2739 1. Inspect the cooling air intake behind the passenger seat and the cooling exhaust holes in the IMA case above the spare tire. If either is obstructed, remove the obstruction, and clear the code. Advise the customer that blocking the vents can cause this problem. 2. Remove the IMA cover (steps 3-10 of REPAIR PROCEDURE). Refer to page 12-4 of the 2000 Insight Service Manual. 3. Make sure the cooling fan on the battery pack is operating normally. Use the PGM Tester to run the fan in high and low speed modes. ^ If the fan is OK, check the part number on the battery condition monitor module. If the part number is not 1K100-PHM-030, then the battery condition monitor module and the motor control module need to be replaced. Go to REPAIR PROCEDURE. ^ If the fan is not OK, repair as needed. REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Write down the radio station presets. 2. Turn the ignition switch off, then disconnect the negative cable from the 12-volt battery in the engine compartment. 3. Remove the cargo area carpet and the cargo box. (Refer to page 20-43 of the Insight Service Manual). Page 2279 Wires Page 9517 Dimmer Switch: Diagnostic Aids Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Page 3951 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 9509 Splices Components Ground - "G" Page 1048 Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow from power at the top of the diagram to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another for example is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors Page 9298 Speedometer Head: Description and Operation Speedometer and Odometer The speedometer and odometer (part of the LCD Display) are controlled by the CPU in the gauge assembly. The CPU receives a pulsing input from the vehicle speed sensor. The pulse rate increases as the car accelerates. The frequency and duration of these input pulses are measured by the CPU. The CPU controls the LCD Display to turn on the correct number of segments to indicate the vehicles speed and mileage. Refer to the Gauges System for specific tests or troubleshooting procedures. Page 6818 10. Remove the cotter pin (A) from the lower arm ball joint, and remove the castle nut (B). 11. Remove the lower arm ball joint from the knuckle using the special tool. NOTE: Make sure you position the ball joint remover jaw on the bushing (D) and not on the aluminum surface of the knuckle. 12. Loosen the damper pinch bolts (A) while holding the nuts (B), and remove the bolts and nuts. 13. Pull the knuckle off of the driveshaft while holding the outboard joint (c), and remove the knuckle from the damper. NOTE: Do not pull the driveshaft end outward. The driveshaft joint may come off. 14. Separate the hub (A) from the hub bearing unit (B) using the special tool and a press. Hold onto the hub to keep it from falling when pressed clear. Page 1088 - When connecting the wire harness, make sure the connection is secure and the connector (B) is firmly locked into place. - Do not fold over the lower part of the suction filter (C). - When installing the fuel gauge sending unit (A), make sure the connection is secure and the connector is firmly locked into place. Be careful not to bend or twist it excessively. Page 7489 Relay And Control Unit Location - Engine Compartment Page 6325 174. Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box Part 2 A/T - Avoiding Fluid Contamination Fluid - CVT: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Avoiding Fluid Contamination SOURCE: Honda Service News TITLE: Avoiding Comebacks From A/T Contamination APPLIES TO: All models SERVICE TIP: Installing a reman A/T? Here are some important tips to keep in mind to ensure a first-time fix and to avoid any come-backs: - If the vehicle has an ATF cooler, make sure you clean the cooler with the ATF Cooler Cleaner (P/N GHTTTCF6H). See S/B 89-022, ATF Cooler Cleaner, for details. - If the reman A/T kit includes an in-line filter, don't forget to install it. If the vehicle already has an in-line filter from an earlier A/T replacement, then remove the existing filter, and install the new one. - Spray the driveshaft splines with solvent and compressed air before installing them in the reman A/T. If the failed A/T had a speed sensor, make sure it's clean before you install it. Debris from the failed A/T can catch in the driveshaft splines or on the speed sensor and contaminate the reman A/T. - If the reman A/T comes with a heater/cooler, make sure you install the reman A/T with that heater/cooler. Never install the heater/cooler from the failed A/T; you could contaminate the reman A/T. Page 3333 Wires Page 7464 5. To complete the charts : - Mark the delivery temperature along the vertical line. - Mark the intake temperature (ambient air temperature) along the bottom line. - Draw a line straight up from the air temperature to the humidity. - Mark a point 10 % above and 10 % below the humidity level. - From each point draw a horizontal line across the delivery temperature. - The delivery temperature should fall between the two lines. - Complete the low-side pressure test and high-side pressure test in the same way. - Any measurements outside the line may indicate the need for further inspection. Page 4258 EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 4064 NO - Repair open in the wire between the PGM-FI main relay (IGP) and the ECM (B1, B9). 37. Measure voltage between body ground and ECM connector terminals B2, B10, B20 and B22 individually. Is there more than 1.0 V? YES - Repair open in the wire(s) that had more than 1.0 V between G101 and the ECM (B2, B10, B20, B22). NO - Go to step 38. 38. Measure voltage between body ground and ECM connector terminal C19. Is there about 5 V? YES - Go to step 46. NO - Go to step 39. 39. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 40. Disconnect the manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor 3P connector. 41. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 42. Measure voltage between body ground and ECM connector terminal C19. Is there about 5 V? YES - Replace the MAP sensor. NO - Go to step 43. Page 4829 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: - Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest OHMS" range. Locations Relay And Control Unit Locations - Dashboard Diagram Information and Instructions Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System Terminal Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown below is #6. Page 225 40. Upper Left Kick Panel Area Page 9836 EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 7199 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Page 804 115. Right Side of Cargo Area Page 1903 Malfunction Indicator Lamp: Description and Operation Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) Indication (In relation to Readiness Codes) The vehicle has certain "readiness codes" that are part of the on-board diagnostics for the emissions systems. If the vehicle's battery has been disconnected or gone dead, these codes are reset. In some states, part of the emissions testing is to make sure these codes are set to complete. If all of them are not set to complete, the vehicle may fail the test. To check if the readiness codes are set, turn the ignition switch ON (II), but do not start the engine. The MIL will come of for 15 - 20 seconds. If it then goes off, the readiness codes are set. If it blinks several times, one or more readiness codes are not set to complete. To set each code, drive the vehicle or run the engine as described in the procedures to set them in this section. Component Locations Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Component Locations Component Location Index Page 6857 73. Under Right Side of Kick Panel (M/T) 134. Under Right Side of Kick Panel (CVT) Page 9394 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. Page 4355 Camshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation Camshaft Position (CMP) A and B (Top Dead Center (TDC) 1 and 2), and Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensors The CMPA (TDC 1) and CMPB (TDC 2) sensors detect the position of the No.1 cylinder as a reference for sequential fuel injection to each cylinder. The CKP sensor detects engine speed and determines ignition timing and timing for fuel injection of each cylinder. Page 7290 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Locations 14. Top of Transmission Page 7912 1997 Accord SE With Factory-Installed Security System 1997 Accord SE with factory-installed security system Programming the Transmitter NOTES: ^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased. ^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the programming mode. ^ You must complete steps 1-6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from exiting the programming mode. 1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter can be used for this step.) 3. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 4. Repeat steps 1, 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2. 5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode. 7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted the transmitter's code. 5. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda using normal parts ordering procedures. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery. 98-02 Accord EX & 00-02 Accord SE 1998-02 Accord EX with factory-installed security system 2000 and 2002 Accord SE with factory-installed security system Page 7346 The evaporator temperature sensor is located on the evaporator housing. It the temperature at the evaporator gets too cold, the evaporator temperature sensor sends a signal to the climate control unit to turn off the compressor clutch. This prevents condensation from freezing on the evaporator fins and blocking air delivery into the passenger compartment. A/C Pressure Switch The A/C pressure switch is located in the condenser outlet line where refrigerant is in a high temperature/high pressure liquid state. The switch will sense abnormally high or low pressure, and open the circuit. This removes ground from the ECM, and turns off the compressor. Refer to the HVAC System for specific tests or troubleshooting procedures. Capacity Specifications Refrigerant Oil: Capacity Specifications REFRIGERANT OIL CAPACITY REFRIGERANT OIL CAPACITY System Oil Capacity (Fluid Ounces) 4.33 oz. Page 9460 Splices Components Ground - "G" Page 9405 Brake Light Switch: Description and Operation Brake pedal position Switch The brake pedal position switch signals the ECM when the brake pedal is pressed. Page 9760 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 7482 1. Right Side of Engine Compartment Page 2084 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 5307 Transmission Cooler: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Avoiding Fluid Contamination SOURCE: Honda Service News TITLE: Avoiding Comebacks From A/T Contamination APPLIES TO: All models SERVICE TIP: Installing a reman A/T? Here are some important tips to keep in mind to ensure a first-time fix and to avoid any come-backs: - If the vehicle has an ATF cooler, make sure you clean the cooler with the ATF Cooler Cleaner (P/N GHTTTCF6H). See S/B 89-022, ATF Cooler Cleaner, for details. - If the reman A/T kit includes an in-line filter, don't forget to install it. If the vehicle already has an in-line filter from an earlier A/T replacement, then remove the existing filter, and install the new one. - Spray the driveshaft splines with solvent and compressed air before installing them in the reman A/T. If the failed A/T had a speed sensor, make sure it's clean before you install it. Debris from the failed A/T can catch in the driveshaft splines or on the speed sensor and contaminate the reman A/T. - If the reman A/T comes with a heater/cooler, make sure you install the reman A/T with that heater/cooler. Never install the heater/cooler from the failed A/T; you could contaminate the reman A/T. Page 805 Power Trunk / Liftgate Lock Switch: Diagrams 42. Hatch Opener Switch 85. Hatch Key Cylinder Switch Page 5668 Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Service and Repair Transmission Range Switch Replacement 1. Remove the air cleaner housing. 2. Remove the transmission range switch connector from the connector bracket (A), then disconnect it. 3. Remove the transmission range switch (B). 4. Shift the transmission into the [N] position by turning the control lever (A). Do not squeeze the end (B) of the control shaft tips together when shifting. If the tips are squeezed together it will cause a faulty signal or position due to the play between the control shaft and the switch. 5. Set the transmission range switch to the [N] position. The switch clicks in the [N] position. 6. Install the transmission range switch gently on the control shaft, then tighten the bolts. Do not move the switch when tightening the bolts. 7. Connect the connector securely, then install it on its bracket. Page 7827 15. Audio Unit Antenna Page 9259 In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locater) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: - Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. Page 5172 Knock Sensor: Description and Operation Knock Sensor The knock control system adjusts the ignition timing to minimize knock. Page 6368 Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box Page 5268 Page 3144 DTC P1679 thru P1860 Page 2770 High/Low Speed Battery Module Fan Control Relay: Diagrams 113. Battery Module Fan Control Relay, High Speed & Battery Module Fan Control Relay, Low Speed 114. MPI Module Fan Control Relay, High Speed; High Voltage Contactor Relay; Ignition Hold Relay; And MPI Module Fan Control Relay, Low Speed Page 605 Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution diagram set to get a more detailed picture of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Page 5832 Brake Pad: Testing and Inspection Front Inspection and Replacement CAUTION: Frequent inhalation of brake pad dust, regardless of material composition, could be hazardous to your health. ^ Avoid breathing dust particles. ^ Never use an air hose or brush to clean brake assemblies. Use an OHSA-Approved vacuum cleaner. NOTICE: To avoid damage, do not strike aluminum parts with a metal hammer. If necessary, tap gently with a plastic tipped hammer. NOTE: Nuts and bolts with the [star] mark are special corrosion-resistant Dacro fasteners. Use the same type if replacement is necessary. Inspection 1. Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper location. Remove the front wheels. 2. Check the thickness of the inner pad (A) and outer pad (B). Do not include the thickness of the backing plate. Brake pad thickness: Standard: 8.0 - 9.0 mm (0.31 - 0.35 inch) Service limit: 1.5 mm (0.06 inch) 3. If the brake pad thickness is less than the service limit, replace all the pads as a set. Locations Shift Indicator: Locations Component Location Index Component Locations 89. Behind Passenger's Seat Page 9164 In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locater) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: - Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. Page 8859 Splices Components Ground - "G" Page 517 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. Page 336 DTC P1586 thru P1678 Page 1879 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. Locations Page 6763 9. Test-drive the vehicle on the same road you used earlier. - If the drift is now within spec, swap each rear tire back to the front, one at a time, and test-drive the vehicle on the same road you used earlier. Replace the bad tire, then return the vehicle to your customer. - If the drift is still out of spec after swapping the front and rear tires, go to step 10. 10. Test-drive a known-good donor vehicle on the same road you used earlier, and check its pull. 11. Swap all four tires from the donor vehicle with the tires on your customer¡C■s vehicle. 12. Test-drive your customer¡C■s vehicle on the same road you used earlier. - If the drift is now within spec, swap the tires back to the donor vehicle one at a time, and test-drive your customer¡C■s vehicle on the same road you used earlier. Do this until the drift comes back. Replace the bad tire(s), then return the vehicle to your customer. - If the drift is still out of spec using the donor vehicle tires, contact Tech Line for further action. Technical Service Bulletin # 06-068 Date: 090502 Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right 06-068 May 2, 2009 Applies To: ALL *Vehicle Pulls or Drifts, and/or Steering Wheel Is Off-Center (Supersedes 06-068, Vehicle Pulling or Drifting, dated October 4, 2007, to revise the information marked by asterisks) (Replaces 90-011, Steering Wheel Off-Center Adjustment at PDI)* *REVISION SUMMARY The title description was revised.* SYMPTOM While driving on a straight road, the vehicle pulls or drifts to the right or left. BACKGROUND New tools were developed to help you diagnose and correct a pulling and/or steering wheel off-center issue. There is a diagnosis worksheet included to take on your test-drive and record your findings. These values are used to build the 15-digit DTC (diagnostic trouble code) that is required for your warranty claim. The last step in each repair procedure helps you create the correct code. In the rare case that you have to repair a vehicle that pulls and has the steering wheel off-center, use REPAIR PROCEDURE B to file your warranty claim. For more information, refer to Training Module SSC 44 - Steering Drift or Pull Interactive Service Bulletin. PROBABLE CAUSES Several conditions can cause the vehicle to pull or drift: ^ Wheel alignment ^ Tires ^ Off-center steering wheel (no pulling or drifting, but a customer may believe this is the case) CORRECTIVE ACTION Diagnose the problem using the special tools and the worksheet on page 4 that guides you to one of four repair procedures. Page 125 Compressor Clutch Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relay Test Normally-open type A: 1. Turn the battery module switch OFF, and measure the voltage. 2. Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is disconnected. A/C compressor clutch relay - Air fuel ratio sensor relay - Condenser fan relay - Daytime running lights relay (Canada) - Headlight relay 1 - Headlight relay 2 - High speed battery module fan control relay - High speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - High voltage conductor control relay - Horn relay - Ignition hold relay - Low speed battery module fan control relay - Low speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - Power window relay - Radiator fan relay - Rear window defogger relay - Reverse relay - Starter cut relay Page 9635 Hazard Warning Switch: Service and Repair Hazard Warning Switch Test/Replacement 1. Remove the instrument panel. 2. Disconnect the 10P connector (A) from the hazard warning switch (B). 3. Remove the two screws from the switch. 4. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table. 5. If the continuity check is not as specified, replace the illumination bulb (B) or the switch. Page 6317 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. Page 5817 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 5098 Camshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation Camshaft Position (CMP) A and B (Top Dead Center (TDC) 1 and 2), and Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensors The CMPA (TDC 1) and CMPB (TDC 2) sensors detect the position of the No.1 cylinder as a reference for sequential fuel injection to each cylinder. The CKP sensor detects engine speed and determines ignition timing and timing for fuel injection of each cylinder. Page 860 35. Left Rear of Engine Compartment Page 1667 6. If you installed a new belt, run the engine for five minutes, then readjust the belt to the used belt specification. Deflection Method Inspection 1. Apply a force of 98 N (10 kgf, 22 lbs.), and measure the deflection at the mid point (A) between the water pump and crankshaft pulleys. If the belt is worn or damaged, replace it. If the belt needs adjustment, go to step 2. Adjustment 2. Loosen the idler pulley center nut (B). 3. Turn the adjusting bolt (C) to obtain the proper belt deflection, then retighten the idler pulley center nut. 4. Recheck the belt deflection. 5. If you installed a new belt, run the engine for five minutes, then readjust the belt to the used belt specification. Page 5009 In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locater) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: - Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. Page 2083 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. Page 9773 Connectors - "C" Page 6912 Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution diagram set to get a more detailed picture of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Page 2451 4. Connect the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals of the radiator fan relay 4P socket with a jumper wire. Does the radiator fan run? YES - Go to step 5. NO - Go to step 6. 5. Disconnect the jumper, and turn the ignition switch ON (II). Check for voltage between the No. 3 terminal of the radiator fan relay 4P socket and body ground. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 9. NO - Check for an open in the BLK/YEL wire between the under-hood fuse/relay box and the under-dash fuse/relay box. 6. Disconnect the radiator fan connector. 7. Check for continuity between the No. 2 terminal of the radiator fan relay 4P socket and the No. 2 terminal of the radiator fan connector. Is there continuity? YES - Go to step 8. NO - Repair open in the BLU/BLK wire between the under-hood fuse/relay box and the radiator fan. Page 3807 DTC P0A94 thru P0157 Page 7309 26. Measure the voltage between the No. 1 terminal of the fan control relay 5P socket and body ground. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 27. NO - Repair open in the wire between the condenser fan and the fan control relay. 27. Turn the A/C and fan switches OFF, then turn the ignition switch OFF. 28. Disconnect the radiator fan 2P connector. 29. Check for continuity between the No. 4 terminal of the fan control relay 5P socket and the No. 2 terminal of the radiator fan 2P connector. Is there continuity? YES - Go to step 30. NO - Repair open in the wire between the fan control relay and the radiator fan. 30. Check for continuity between the No. 1 terminal of the radiator fan 2P connector and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Replace the radiator fan motor. NO - Check for an open in the wire between the radiator fan and body ground. If the wire is OK, check for poor ground at G301. Page 5424 8. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). Move the shift lever through all gear positions, and check the transmission range switch synchronization with the A/T gear position indicator. 9. Check that the engine can start in the [P] and [N] positions, and cannot start in any other shift lever position. 10. Check that the back-up lights come on when the shift lever is in the [R] position. 11. Allow the wheels to rotate freely, then start the engine, and check the shift lever operation. Page 7525 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: - Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest OHMS" range. Page 6552 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. Page 3513 122. Fuel Consumption Display Select Switch Page 359 7. Remove the rear clips from the middle bulkhead carpet. 8. Remove the under-cover (two bolts, two clips, and three screw clips). 9. Remove the intelligent power unit (I PU) lid (six Torx bolts and 17 hex bolts). 10. Measure the voltage between the junction board terminals. There should be 10 V or less. ^ If you have more than 10 V, there's a problem in the MA system. Look for and troubleshoot any DTCs before continuing. ^ If you have 10 V or less, continue to step 11. Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter Information Technical Service Bulletin # 98-011 Date: 040220 Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter Information 98-011 February 20, 2004 Applies To: ALL Keyless Remote Transmitter Information (Supersedes 98-011, dated February 6, 2003) Updated information is shown by asterisks and a black bar. This service bulletin gives you information about keyless remote transmitters for most Honda vehicles. Each procedure describes transmitter programming (if applicable), transmitter ordering, and transmitter batteries. A remote transmitter quick reference guide is shown below. Page 5544 2. Remove the center cap (A), wheel nuts (B), and front wheel (C). 3. Remove the brake hose bracket mounting bolt (A). 4. Remove the caliper bracket mounting bolts (B), and remove the caliper assembly (C) from the knuckle. To prevent damage to the caliper assembly or brake hose, use a short piece of wire to hang the caliper assembly from the undercarriage. Do not twist the brake hose with force. 5. Remove the spindle nut (A). Page 4234 11. Lift out the battery module foam insert. 12. Remove the mounting bolts for the battery condition monitor (BCM) module and the motor control module (MCM). Disconnect the electrical connectors, then remove the modules. 13. Install the new BCM and MCM. Make sure all module connectors are secure. 14. Install the IPU lid. 15. Remove the locking cover from the battery module switch, install the 5 mm bolt, turn the switch on, reinstall the locking cover, and install the battery module switch cover. 16. Install the remaining parts in the reverse order of removal. 17. Reconnect the negative cable to the under-hood 12 V battery. Locations 44. Under Left Side of Dash (Honda Accessory) Page 6488 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 1093 48. Left Side of Steering Column Page 4345 - Taillight relay Page 2035 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. Locations Gauges - Component Location Index Page 164 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. Page 9274 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. Page 7746 Seat Belt Buckle: Service and Repair Seat Belt Replacement SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations and the precautions and procedures in the SRS section before performing repairs or service. NOTE: Check the seat belts for damage, and replace them if necessary. Be careful not to damage them during removal and installation. Seat Belt Buckle 1. Remove the seat, and remove the center cover. NOTE: On the driver's seat belt buckle, to get to the seat belt switch connector, pull the seat cushion cover back by releasing the hooks. 2. Remove the seat belt buckle in the numbered sequence. 3. Install in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - Assemble the washer and collar on the center anchor bolt. Refer to the Anchor Bolt Construction. - Apply liquid thread lock to the center anchor bolt before reinstallation. - To prevent wrinkles in the seat cushion cover, stretch the material evenly over the pad (on the driver's seat). - Apply liquid thread lock to the seat mounting bolts before reinstallation. Page 7297 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Page 1438 NO - Replace the neutral position switch. 16. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 17. Measure voltage between neutral position switch 2P connector terminal No.2 and body ground. Is there battery voltage? YES - Repair open in the wire between the neutral position switch and G101. NO - Repair open in the wire between the ECM (B16) and the neutral position switch. Page 6455 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Engine - Connecting Rod Damage Information Connecting Rod: Technical Service Bulletins Engine - Connecting Rod Damage Information Why Do Connecting Rods Break? Curious why connecting rods break? Afier all, these are heavy-duty parts specifically designed to endure punishing forces and temperatures. Yet, every once in a while they do bend or break and wind up as cool conversation pieces for a coffee table or desk. Connecting rods break only after they've gotten bent. And they won't get bent unless the engine hydro-locks or the rod bearings fail. When troubleshooting a bent or broken connecting rod, here are some things to consider: ^ The number one culprit for connecting rod breakage is hydro-lock. This happens when liquid (water or fuel) entering the combustion chamber exceeds the chamber's volume. Since liquids don't compress, that extra volume in the chamber causes the rod to bend. You won't really notice anything wrong, until that bent rod finally gives out and breaks. This could happen if you're driving through deep, standing water and someone coming the other way splashes water over your hood. On very rare occasions, a bad ECM/PCM or fuel injector can cause too much fuel to enter a cylinder, causing hydro-lock and resulting in a bent rod. Before this happens, though, there are usually some kind of drive ability problems that crop up and remain afier the engine is fixed. A bent rod might not show any symptoms until it actually breaks. But bent rods leave a wider-than-normal carbon witness line in the cylinder because they're shorter. Typically, a healthy engine has a carbon line that's 6 mm deep. An engine that's suffering from bent rods has a second carbon line that's 9 to 12 mm deep. ^ Connecting rod bearings fail for a number of reasons. To properly determine what actually caused a rod bearing to fail, you've got to take apart all rod bearings and main bearings and compare them side by side. If all or most of the bearings and journals show similar damage (scoring, exposed copper, or heat discoloration) the likely cause is oil starvation, poor maintenance, customer abuse, or running the engine with an aftermarket power booster (nitrous oxide setup, supercharger, turbocharger). If only the bearing or journal for the failed rod looks bad but all the other ones look good (no scoring, no exposed copper or heat discoloration) and the crankshaft journals are smooth with no heat discoloration, then that particular bearing/ clearance would be suspect. Locations Hazard Flasher Relay: Locations Turn Signal/Hazard Flasher Page 8398 Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Service Precautions Airbag Handling and Storage Airbag Handling and Storage Do not disassemble an airbag. It has no serviceable parts. Once an airbag has been deployed, it cannot be repaired or reused. For temporary storage of the airbag during service, please observe the following precautions. - Store the removed airbag with the pad surface up. Never put anything on the removed airbag. - Keep free from any oil, grease, detergent, or water to prevent damage to the airbag assembly. - Store the removed airbag on a secure, flat surface away from any high heat source (exceeding 200 °F/93 °C). - Never perform electrical inspections to the airbags, such as measuring resistance. - Do not position yourself in front of the airbag assembly during removal, inspection, or replacement. Page 4843 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. Specifications Axle Nut: Specifications Front Axle Nut 22 x 1.5 mm ......................................................................................................................................... ......................... 181 Nm (18.5 kgf-m, 134 ft. lbs.) Rear Axle Nut 20 x 1.5 mm ......................................................................................................................................... ......................... 162 Nm (16.5 kgf-m, 119 ft. lbs.) Page 3699 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: Connector Views 111. Rear Window Defogger, Fuel Cut, Radiator Fan Main (Climate Control) And Intermittent Wiper Relays Specifications Brake Shoe: Specifications Brake shoes Lining thickness Rear Standard or New .................................................................................................................................. .................................... 4.3 mm (0.17 inch) Service Limit .................................................................... ....................................................................................................... 1.0 mm (0.04 inch) Page 4414 9. Knock Sensor Page 7240 5. Check resistance of the field coil. If resistance is not within specifications, replace the field coil. Field Coil Resistance: 3.05 - 3.35 ohms at 68 °F (20 °C) Page 6582 203. C108 (Junction Connector) (CVT) Page 7154 NO - Go to step 9. 9. Turn the ignition switch ON(II), and check the same terminals for voltage. Is there any voltage? YES - Repair any short to power in the wire(s) between the climate control unit and the recirculation control motor. This short may also damage the climate control unit. Repair the short to power before replacing the climate control unit. NO - Go to step 10. 10. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 11. Check for continuity between the following terminals of climate control unit connector B (22P) and the recirculation control motor 4P connector. 22P: 4P: No. 18 No. 4 No. 19 No. 2 Is there continuity? YES - Check for loose wires or poor connections at climate control unit connector B (22P) and at recirculation control motor 4P connector. If the connections are good, substitute a known-good climate control unit, and recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away, replace the original climate control unit. NO - Repair any open in the wire(s) between the climate control unit and the recirculation control motor. 12. Remove the recirculation control motor. 13. Check the recirculation control linkage and door for smooth movement. Do the recirculation control linkage and door move smoothly? YES - Replace the recirculation control motor. NO - Repair the recirculation control linkage or door. Heating and Air Conditioning Recirculation Control Motor Circuit Troubleshooting Page 9006 Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Description and Operation Definitions Air Bag An inflatable cloth cushion designed to deploy in certain frontal crashes. It supplements the protection offered by the seat belts by distributing the impact load more evenly over the vehicle occupant's head and torso. Asynchronous Performed in a nonperiodic fashion, (i.e., no defined time or interval). (B+) Battery voltage, (B+) The voltage available at the battery at the time of the indicated measurement. With the key "ON" and the engine not running, the system voltage will likely be between 12 and 12.5 volts. At idle the voltage may be 14 to 16 volts. The voltage could be as low as 10 volts during engine cranking. Bulb Check The SDM will cause the "AIR BAG" warning lamp to flash seven times and then go "OFF" whenever the ignition switch transitions to the ON position from any other ignition switch position and no malfunctions are detected. "CONTINUOUS MONITORING" Tests performed by the SDM on the SRS every 100 milliseconds while "Ignition 1" voltage is in the normal operating voltage range at the SDM. Data Link Connector (DLC) Formerly "DLC" a connector which allows communication with an external computer, such as a scan tool. Datum Line A base line parallel to the plane of the underbody or frame from which all vertical measurements originate. Deploy To inflate the air bag. Deployment Loops The circuits which supply current to the air bag assemblies to deploy the air bag. Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) Formerly "Code", a numerical designator used by the SDM to indicate specific SRS malfunctions. Driver Current Source An output of the SDM which applies current into the driver air bag assembly circuit during the "Initiator Assembly Resistance Test". Driver Air Bag Assembly An assembly located in the steering wheel hub consisting of an inflatable bag, an inflator and an initiator. EEPROM Electronically Erasable Programmable Read Only Memory. Memory which retains its contents when power is removed from the SDM. Ignition Cycle The voltage at the SDM "Ignition 1" inputs, with ignition switch "ON", is within the normal operating voltage range for at least ten seconds before turning ignition switch "OFF". Ignition 1 Page 1021 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 960 63. Behind Center Lower Cover Page 9800 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Page 7949 NOTE: Known-good test iPods are available from Tech Line. No - Repair the faulty connection at the audio unit. Music Link has no sound, the disc number and track number flashes on the audio display. Disconnect and reconnect the iPod, then retest. Does Music Link operate normally? Yes - The iPod connector pins are loose. Replace the cable if the connector is damaged. No - There is a firmware error. Advise the customer to install the latest iPod firmware (unit software). Check mark is shown on iPod display screen, radio does not switch to CD-C or CD-4 mode. 1. Make sure the audio unit works in all other modes. Does the audio unit work in all other modes? Yes - Go to step 2. No - Do a vehicle battery cable reset, then retest: ^ Remove the negative and positive battery cables. Use a jumper wire to short the two cables together, then turn the ignition switch to ON (II) and wait 15 minutes. ^ Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), and remove the jumper wire. Reconnect the positive battery cable first, then reconnect the negative cable. 2. Remove the Music Link interface unit, and verify the software version on the unit label is SW 1.06 or higher. Is the software version SW 1.06 or higher? Yes - Do the "Check mark is not shown on iPod display screen, radio will not switch to CD-C or CD-4 mode" troubleshooting. No - Replace the Music Link interface unit and iPod cable. iPod music and XM radio music play at the same time (Pilot). There is a software compatibility issue in the XM receiver unit. Refer to S/B 06-061, XM(R) Satellite Radio and Audio Accessories Play at the Same Time for repair information. Music Link will not do Disc 1-4 search functions. NOTE: TTS software must be loaded on the customer's home computer before Disc 1-4 search functions work. 1. Use a known-good iPod to verify that the search functions (Disc 1-4) work. NOTE: Known-good test iPods are available from Tech Line. Does the known-good iPod do search functions (Disc 1-4)? Yes - Verify with the customer if the TTS software is loaded. If the customer needs assistance, refer the customer to American Honda's Automobile Customer Service Department for assistance with TTS software loading problems (see page 6 of this bulletin). No - Do the battery cable reset, then retest: ^ Remove the negative and positive battery cables. Use a jumper wire to short the two cables together, then turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and wait 15 minutes. ^ Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), and remove the jumper wire. Reconnect the positive battery cable first, then reconnect the negative cable. 2. If the problem does not go away, do "Check mark is not shown on iPod display screen, radio will not switch to CD-C or CD-4 mode" troubleshooting. Artist is not categorized in the correct grouping when using (Disc 2) search function. Page 9946 In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locater) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: - Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. Page 9441 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Locations Trunk / Liftgate Relay: Locations Page 10043 Tail Lamp Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relay Test Normally-open type A: 1. Turn the battery module switch OFF, and measure the voltage. 2. Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is disconnected. A/C compressor clutch relay - Air fuel ratio sensor relay - Condenser fan relay - Daytime running lights relay (Canada) - Headlight relay 1 - Headlight relay 2 - High speed battery module fan control relay - High speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - High voltage conductor control relay - Horn relay - Ignition hold relay - Low speed battery module fan control relay - Low speed motor power inverter module fan control relay - Power window relay - Radiator fan relay - Rear window defogger relay - Reverse relay - Starter cut relay Page 9962 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 2570 Water Pump: Testing and Inspection Inspection 1. Loosen the idler pulley center nut (A). Turn the adjusting bolt (B) clockwise (counterclockwise for models without A/C compressor), then remove the water pump-A/C compressor belt or water pump belt (C). 2. Turn the water pump pulley clockwise. Check that it turns freely. 3. Check for signs of seal leakage. A small amount of "weeping" from the bleed hole (A) is normal. Page 272 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 10132 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Component Locations Power Door Lock Control Module: Component Locations Relay And Control Unit Locations - Dashboard Page 6758 NOTE: Do this repair procedure if, after doing step 10 of the test-drive, the vehicle pulled in the opposite direction after you swapped the front tires. 1. Swap wheels 2 and 4 on the passenger's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again. ^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 2, then go to step 3. ^ If the pull does not go away, put wheels 2 and 4 back to their original positions, and go to step 2. 2. Swap wheels 1 and 3 on the driver's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again. ^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 1, then go to step 3. ^ If the pull does not go away, use a known-good tire in position 1 and continue diagnosis. 3. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC. REPAIR PROCEDURE B Page 6089 16. With the help of an assistant, lift the battery module out of the vehicle, and carefully set it down on a flat surface. 17. Install the new battery module in the reverse order of removal (steps 16, 15, 14, 13, 12, and 11). 18. Install a new BCM (2002-04 Insights) ora new BCM and MCM (2000-01 Insights): ^ Remove the mounting bolts. ^ Disconnect the connectors: The BCM has three the MCM has five. ^ Remove the module(s). ^ Install the new module(s) in the reverse order of removal, and torque the mounting bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb-ft). 19. Reinstall the foam insert. 20. Reinstall the IPU lid. Torque the bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb.ft). 21. Reinstall the under-cover (two bolts, two clips, and three screw clips.) Torque the bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb.ft). 22. Remove the battery module switch locking cover, flip the switch to ON, then reinstall the locking cover. 23. Reinstall the battery module switch cover. 24. Reinstall the rear clips on the middle bulkhead carpet. 25. Reinstall the cargo floor mat. 26. Check for and clear any DTCs with the HDS. Page 4649 Idle Speed: Description and Operation Idle Stop Switch (CVT Model) Idle Stop Switch (CVT model) The idle stop switch signals the ECM when the brake pedal is pressed. Page 9814 Wires Page 2794 CORRECTIVE ACTION Based on the model and/or model year, install the appropriate IMA repair kit or part. WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Turn the ignition switch to the LOCK (0 position). 2. Remove cargo floor mat: ^ Refer to page 20-44 of the 2000-2006 Insight Service Manual, or ^ Online, enter keywords FLOOR MAT, then select Interior Trim Removal/Installation - Cargo Area from the list. 3. Remove the battery module switch cover (two bolts), then remove the locking cover from the switch. Page 5750 Braking Sensor/Switch: Adjustments Brake Pedal and Brake Pedal Position Switch/Idle Stop Switch Adjustment Pedal Height 1. Disconnect the brake pedal position switch connector, loosen the brake pedal position switch locknut (A), and back off the switch (B) until it is no longer touching the brake pedal. 2. Disconnect the idle stop switch connector, and loosen the idle stop switch (CVT). 3. Lift up the carpet. At the insulator cutout, measure the pedal height (C) from the middle of the right side center of the pedal pad (D). Standard pedal height (with carpet removed): 184 mm (7 1/4 inch) 4. Loosen the pushrod locknut (A), and screw the pushrod in or out with a pair of pliers until the standard pedal height from the floor is reached. After adjustment, tighten the locknut firmly. Do not adjust the pedal height with the pushrod pressed. Page 1797 Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box Part 1 Page 10004 Splices Components Ground - "G" Page 2232 Page 9926 145. Combination Light Switch Description and Operation Charging System: Description and Operation NOTE: The Insight is a hybrid vehicle, for information on the charging system refer to Hybrid Drive Systems. IMA System The IMA (Integrated Motor Assist) system is a high efficiency hybrid system that consists of a gasoline-powered engine and an electric motor. The IMA system uses the engine as its main source of power and the motor as a supplemental source of power. By using the two units, overall weight is lower than a powertrain which uses only an electric motor as its source of power. High voltage DC circuits such as the battery module, junction board, PCU (Power Control Unit), etc. are stored in the IPU (Intelligent Power Unit), which is located at the rear of the car for efficient packaging and for safety. The engine is an inline 3-cylinder, SOHC, 12-valve engine that displaces 0.995 liter. It is a sequential multipoint fuel injected engine specially developed for the IMA system. The motor is a DC brushless type located between the engine and the transmission. In addition to providing assist to the engine, it starts the engine and it acts as a generator to recharges the battery. The MCM (Motor Control Module) controls the motor through the MPI (Motor Power Inverter) module and the voltage control unit. The MCM determines the amount of assist and regenerative power needed by communicating with the BCM (Battery Condition Monitor) module to prevent excessive battery drain and to prevent battery overcharging. The 144 V Ni-MH (nickel-metal hydride) battery is used as the source of energy for the motor. Power to the car's conventional 12 V circuits is supplied by the battery module with voltage reduction done though the DC-DC converter. Page 6985 Front Steering Knuckle: Service and Repair Knuckle/Hub/Hub Bearing Unit Replacement Special Tools Required Hub assembly driver attachment 07GAF-SD40200 - Ball joint remover, 28 mm 07MAC-SL00200 - Hub dis/assembly tool 07965-SA70100 - Support base 07965-SD90100 NOTICE: To avoid damage, do not strike aluminum parts with a metal hammer. If necessary, tap gently with a plastic tipped hammer. NOTE: Nuts and bolts with the [star] mark are special corrosion-resistant Dacro fasteners. Use the same type if replacement is necessary. 1. Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper location. Locations Body Control Module: Locations 109. Top Front of Battery Module 110. Top Rear of Battery Module Page 3074 DTC P0563 thru P0748 Page 6616 Wires Campaign - Integrated Motor Assist Controller Update Technical Service Bulletin # 01-102 Date: 011127 Campaign - Integrated Motor Assist Controller Update 01-102 November 27, 2001 Applies To: 2000-01 Insight with M/T - See VEHICLES AFFECTED Product Update: IMA Controller Modification BACKGROUND The IMA (Integrated Motor Assist) system supplies power to various 12-volt loads on the vehicle (lights, radio, windows, etc.) and assists the engine to improve vehicle performance. In very cold weather, power demands on the IMA battery module can exceed output, causing permanent damage to the battery module. VEHICLES AFFECTED Not all 2000-01 Insights with M/T are affected by this product update. Only vehicles that are registered and normally driven in cold weather areas are affected. Before you begin, verify that the vehicle is registered in one of the states affected by the update (see the map). Then check for vehicle eligibility by doing one of the following. ^ Verify that the customer has a notification letter. ^ Check the vehicle's VIN on your campaign responsibility report. ^ Do a VIN status inquiry on DCS. CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION All owners of affected vehicles will be sent a notification of this product update. An example of the customer notification. CORRECTIVE ACTION Replace the battery condition monitor (BCM) module and the motor control module (MCM). PARTS INFORMATION Locations Hazard Warning Switch: Locations Turn Signal/Hazard Flasher - Component Location Index Page 4187 DTC P0563 thru P0748 Locations Fuel Supply System - Component Location Index Page 8288 Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow from power at the top of the diagram to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another for example is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors Page 5025 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 6977 Ball Joint: Service and Repair Ball Joint Boot Replacement Replacement Special Tools Required Ball joint boot clip guide, 07GAG-SD40700 1. Remove the boot clip and the boot. 2. Pack the interior and lip (A) of the new boot with fresh grease. Do not contaminate the lower collar of the boot (B) with grease. 3. Wipe the grease off the tapered section of the pin (c), and pack fresh grease onto the base (D). 4. Install the boot onto the ball joint pin, then squeeze it gently to force out any air. Do not let dirt or other foreign materials get into the boot. 5. Adjust the special tool with the adjusting bolt (A) until its base is just above the groove around the bottom of the boot. Then slide the clip over the tool into the position (B) on the boot. 6. After installing a boot, wipe any grease off the exposed portion of the ball joint pin. Page 7611 Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Service Precautions Precautions For Electrical Inspections Precautions For Electrical Inspections When using electrical test equipment, insert the probe of the tester into the wire side of the connector. Do not insert the probe of the tester into the terminal side of the connector, and do not tamper with the connector. Use a U-shaped probe. Do not insert the probe forcibly. Use specified service connectors in troubleshooting. Using improper tools could cause an error in inspection due to poor metal-to-metal contact. Page 1421 Clutch Switch: Description and Operation Clutch pedal position Switch (M/T model) The clutch pedal position switch signals the ECM when the clutch pedal is pressed. A/T - Vehicle Speed Sensor Installation Precautions Vehicle Speed Sensor: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Vehicle Speed Sensor Installation Precautions Install VSS Properly to Avoid Reman A/T Damage We can't emphasize enough how important it is to follow, to the letter, the installation instructions that come with a reman A/T. These instructions help ensure that you avoid damaging the A/T and score a successful repair. This is particularly true when it comes to installing the vehicle speed sensor (VSS). Step 6 of the instructions tells you to make sure its gear is fully engaged and the VSS is fully seated before you tighten the retaining bolt. If you don't install the VSS properly, the speed sensor gear will get stripped and the A/T will be seriously damaged. So don't take risks with your customer's vehicle. Always follow these instructions to the letter. You can rest assured you're doing the job right. Page 3244 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. Page 9596 Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution diagram set to get a more detailed picture of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Page 6986 2. Remove the center cap (A), wheel nuts (B), and front wheel (C). 3. Remove the brake hose bracket mounting bolt (A). 4. Remove the caliper bracket mounting bolts (B), and remove the caliper assembly (C) from the knuckle. To prevent damage to the caliper assembly or brake hose, use a short piece of wire to hang the caliper assembly from the undercarriage. Do not twist the brake hose with force. 5. Remove the spindle nut (A). Page 9159 Cavity Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity / terminal shown is # 6. Circuit Schematics Page 5116 96. Left Rear Side of PCU Page 6486 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: - Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest OHMS" range. Page 3267 Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Testing and Inspection PGM-FI Main Relay Test PGM-FI Main Relay Test Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No.3 and No.4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals when power is disconnected. Front Page 4371 Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Service and Repair ECT Sensor Replacement 1. Disconnect the ECT sensor connector, then remove the ECT sensor (A). 2. Install the ECT sensor using a new O-ring (B). Page 8363 Diodes How to Identify Wiring Color-Coded Insulation Wire Color Page 4563 PGM-FI System - Component Location Index Page 10307 Windshield Washer Motor: Service and Repair Washer Motors/Washer Reservoir Replacement 1. Pull away the right front inner fender. 2. Disconnect the 2P connectors (A) from the washer motors (B). 3. Disconnect the washer tubes (C) from the washer motors. 4. Remove the three mounting bolts and washer reservoir. Page 9327 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. Page 8289 All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416 etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector or by a capital letter (A, B, C etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Connector Views that shows the connector terminals wire colors connector cavity numbers and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints shown on diagram [8] . Except for the DLC (data link connector) disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554 for example means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Page 8903 Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow from power at the top of the diagram to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another for example is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors Page 7751 33. Seat Belt Switch, Driver's Page 1117 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: Diagrams 110. DRL And Low Beam Cut Relays (Canada) Locations Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Locations Relay And Control Unit Locations - Dashboard Page 3994 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. Page 6512 Technician Safety Information Air Bag Control Module: Technician Safety Information Be careful not to bump or impact the SRS unit or the side impact sensors whenever the ignition switch is ON (II), or at least for three minutes after the ignition switch is turned OFF. During installation or replacement, be careful not to bump (by impact wrench, hammer, etc.) the area around the SRS unit and the side impact sensor. The airbags could accidentally deploy and cause damage or injury. After a collision in which the airbags were deployed, replace the SRS unit. After a collision in which the side airbag was deployed, replace the side impact sensor on the side where the side airbag deployed and the SRS unit. After a collision in which the airbags or the side airbags did not deploy, inspect for any damage or any deformation on the SRS unit and the side impact sensors. If there is any damage, replace the SRS unit and/or the side impact sensors. Do not disassemble the SRS unit or the side impact sensors. Turn the ignition switch OFF, disconnect the battery negative cable and wait at least three minutes before beginning installation or replacement of the SRS unit, and disconnect the connectors from the SRS unit. Be sure the SRS unit and side impact sensors are installed securely with the mounting bolts torqued to 9.8 Nm (1.0 kg.m, 7.2 lb.ft) Do not spill water or oil on the SRS unit or the side impact sensors and keep them away from dust. Store the SRS unit and the side impact sensors in a cool (less than 104°F / 40°C) and dry (less than 80% relative humidity, no moisture) area. Page 6673 Diodes How to Identify Wiring Color-Coded Insulation Wire Color Page 6003 26. Brake Pedal Position Switch Locations 44. Under Left Side of Dash (Honda Accessory) Page 6369 Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box Page 8881 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. Page 6722 DIAGNOSTIC WORKSHEET REPAIR PROCEDURE A Page 4607 36. EVAP Bypass Solenoid Valve Page 6481 Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow from power at the top of the diagram to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another for example is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors Page 1754 5. To complete the charts : - Mark the delivery temperature along the vertical line. - Mark the intake temperature (ambient air temperature) along the bottom line. - Draw a line straight up from the air temperature to the humidity. - Mark a point 10 % above and 10 % below the humidity level. - From each point draw a horizontal line across the delivery temperature. - The delivery temperature should fall between the two lines. - Complete the low-side pressure test and high-side pressure test in the same way. - Any measurements outside the line may indicate the need for further inspection. ATF Level Check Fluid - CVT: Service and Repair ATF Level Check ATF Level Check NOTE: Keep all foreign particles out of the transmission. 1. Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature (the radiator fan comes on). 2. Park the vehicle on level ground, and turn the engine off. 3. Remove the dipstick (yellow loop) (A) from the transmission, and wipe it with a clean cloth. 4. Insert the dipstick back into the transmission. 5. Remove the dipstick and check the fluid level in 60 - 90 seconds after the engines is turned off. It should be between the upper mark (A) and lower mark (B) on the Hot portion of the gauge (C). Do not check the fluid level when the engine is cold. NOTE: Some dipsticks do not have HOT and Cold printed on them. 6. If the level is below the lower mark, check for fluid leaks at the transmission, hose and line joints, and cooler lines. 7. if the level exceeds the upper mark (A), drain the fluid for proper level. 8. Pour the recommended fluid into the opening of the dipstick pipe (A) to bring it to the upper mark. Always use genuine Honda ATF-Z1 Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF). Using a non-Honda ATF can affect shift quality. Page 649 55. Under Middle of Dash Page 9388 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 2428 6. Disconnect the camshaft position (CMP) sensor A (top dead center (TDC) sensor 1) connector (A), CMP sensor B (TDC sensor 2) connector (B), engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor connector (C), and intake air temperature (IAT) sensor connector (D), and evaporative emission (EVAP) purge control solenoid valve connector (E). Remove the harness clamp (F) and water bypass hose (G). 7. Remove the ground cable (A), manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor bracket (B) and harness holder mounting bolts (C). 8. Remove the heater hoses. 9. Remove the throttle body. 10. Remove the connecting pipes (A) and upper radiator hose (B). 11. Remove the CMP sensor A (TDC sensor 1) and the CMP sensor B (TDC sensor 2). Adjustments Brake Pedal Assy: Adjustments Brake Pedal and Brake Pedal Position Switch/Idle Stop Switch Adjustment Pedal Height 1. Disconnect the brake pedal position switch connector, loosen the brake pedal position switch locknut (A), and back off the switch (B) until it is no longer touching the brake pedal. 2. Disconnect the idle stop switch connector, and loosen the idle stop switch (CVT). 3. Lift up the carpet. At the insulator cutout, measure the pedal height (C) from the middle of the right side center of the pedal pad (D). Standard pedal height (with carpet removed): 184 mm (7 1/4 inch) 4. Loosen the pushrod locknut (A), and screw the pushrod in or out with a pair of pliers until the standard pedal height from the floor is reached. After adjustment, tighten the locknut firmly. Do not adjust the pedal height with the pushrod pressed. Page 9016 102. Right Front Side of PCU Page 6291 Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box Part 2 Locations 41. Under Left Side of Dash Specifications Spark Plug: Specifications Gap and Torque Gap and Torque TORQUE 23 Nm (2.3 kgf.m, 17 lbf.ft) GAP STANDARD SERVICE LIMIT (NEW) 1.0 - 1.1 mm (0.039 - 0.043 in.) 1.3 mm (0.05 in) Page 9705 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 7493 Blower Motor Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relay Test Normally-open type B: Blower Motor Relay, Type 1: Blower Motor Relay, Type 2: Blower Motor High Relay 1. Turn the battery module switch OFF, and measure the voltage. 2. Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 3 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 2 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 3 terminals when power is disconnected. Page 2629 16. With the help of an assistant, lift the battery module out of the vehicle, and carefully set it down on a flat surface. 17. Install the new battery module in the reverse order of removal (steps 16, 15, 14, 13, 12, and 11). 18. Install a new BCM (2002-04 Insights) ora new BCM and MCM (2000-01 Insights): ^ Remove the mounting bolts. ^ Disconnect the connectors: The BCM has three the MCM has five. ^ Remove the module(s). ^ Install the new module(s) in the reverse order of removal, and torque the mounting bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb-ft). 19. Reinstall the foam insert. 20. Reinstall the IPU lid. Torque the bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb.ft). 21. Reinstall the under-cover (two bolts, two clips, and three screw clips.) Torque the bolts to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb.ft). 22. Remove the battery module switch locking cover, flip the switch to ON, then reinstall the locking cover. 23. Reinstall the battery module switch cover. 24. Reinstall the rear clips on the middle bulkhead carpet. 25. Reinstall the cargo floor mat. 26. Check for and clear any DTCs with the HDS. Page 6021 Wheel Speed Sensor: Testing and Inspection Inspection 1. Inspect the front and rear pursers for chipped or damaged teeth. 2. Measure the air gap between the wheel sensor and the purser all the way around while rotating the purser. Remove the rear brake disc to measure the gap on the rear wheel sensor. If the gap exceeds 1.0 mm (0.04 inch), check for a bent suspension arm. Standard: Front/Rear: 0.4 - 1.0 mm (0.02 - 0.04 inch) Suspension - Drifting & Pulling At Highway Speeds Alignment: All Technical Service Bulletins Suspension - Drifting & Pulling At Highway Speeds SOURCE: Honda Service News September 2003 TITLE: Drifting and Pulling at Highway Speeds APPLIES TO: All Models SERVICE TIP: Got a customer complaining that the vehicle drifts or pulls when driving at highway speeds? Use this handy procedure to diagnose and repair the problem. NOTE: Before doing the procedure in this article, check ISIS for related S/Bs and other S/N articles for the model you're working on. 1. Check if your customer has original equipment wheels and tires and that the ride height hasn't been modified. - If the wheels, tires, and ride height are OK, go to step 2. - If the wheels or tires aren't original equipment or the ride height was modified, stop here. Aftermarket wheels or tires or a ride height that's been modified pose challenges that this article doesn't cover. Resolve these issues with your customer before going further. 2. Set the tire pressures to the recommended cold inflation values listed on the doorjamb sticker. 3. Find a straight stretch of 4-lane road where you can safely (and legally) go 60 mph for several minutes. Ideally, you want a road that's perfectly flat, but most roads have a crown that¡C■s anywhere from 1.5° to 1.75° so they can drain. Flat Road - While driving at 60 mph, use a stopwatch to time how long it takes to drift one full lane from center to center. Record the time. Repeat this, driving in the opposite direction to cancel the effects of wind, then average the two times you recorded. If the vehicle drifts one full lane from center to center in less than 6 seconds, go to step 4. If not, return the vehicle to your customer. Crowned Road - While driving at 60 mph, check if the vehicle climbs the crown. Do this for both a left- and right-crowned road. A drift to the right on a right-crowned road and a drift to the left on left-crowned road are considered normal. If the vehicle climbs the crown or it drifts to the right on a left crowned road, go to step 4. 4. Record the original toe, camber, and caster readings. On Passports, set the ride height to spec if needed. Refer to Ride Height Adjustment in S/B 99-043, Steering Wheel Shimmy or Chassis Vibration. 5. Loosen the subframe mounting bolts, and move the rear beam (it¡C■s the entire front subframe on some models) to get the maximum amount of caster and equal side-to-side camber. (As little as 0.4° of camber stagger can cause the vehicle to pull.) 6. Make sure the steering wheel is centered, then set the front and rear toe to the maximum toe-in spec. (Toe-in improves vehicle stability and reduces the tendency to drift or pull.) 7. Test-drive the vehicle on the same road you used earlier. - If the drift is now within spec, return the vehicle to your customer. - If the drift is still out of spec, go to step 8. 8. Swap the front and rear tires on each side of the vehicle, then adjust the tire pressures to the recommended cold inflation values listed on the doorjamb sticker. 9. Test-drive the vehicle on the same road you used earlier. - If the drift is now within spec, swap each rear tire back to the front, one at a time, and test-drive the vehicle on the same road you used earlier. Replace the bad tire, then return the vehicle to your customer. - If the drift is still out of spec after swapping the front and rear tires, go to step 10. 10. Test-drive a known-good donor vehicle on the same road you used earlier, and check its pull. 11. Swap all four tires from the donor vehicle with the tires on your customer¡C■s vehicle. Page 163 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. Locations Door Switch: Locations 85. Left B-pillar 90. Right B-pillar Page 1016 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 289 169. BCM Module Page 5491 Transmission Speed Sensor: Locations 13. Middle of Engine 15. Front Top of Transmission Page 9555 Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution diagram set to get a more detailed picture of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Locations Knock Sensor: Locations PGM-FI System - Component Location Index Page 8466 Programming the Transmitter NOTES: ^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased. ^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the programming mode. ^ You must complete steps 1-6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from exiting the programming mode. 1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter can be used for this step.) 3. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 4. Repeat steps 1 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2. 5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode. 7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted the transmitter's code. 8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda using normal parts ordering procedures. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery. 94-95 Passport (Except 1995-1/2) 1994-95 Passport (except 19951A) with dealer-installed security system NOTES: ^ The system uses a stacking-type memory that accepts up to four transmitters. If you program a fifth transmitter, the memory for the first transmitter is pushed out, and it will no longer work. ^ To clear a lost or stolen transmitter from the system's memory, program a transmitter four times. This will remove the missing transmitter from memory, since only four transmitters can be accepted. Page 1660 Drive Belt: Testing and Inspection Water Pump-A/C Compressor Belt Inspection and Adjustment Special Tools Required Belt tension gauge 07JGG-001010A Belt Tension Gauge Method Inspection 1. Remove the right rear splash shield. 2. Attach the belt tension gauge to the belt, and measure the tension. Follow the gauge manufacturer's instructions. If the belt is worn or damaged, replace it. If the belt needs adjustment, go to step 3. Tension: Used Belt: 390 - 540 N (40 - 55 kgf, 88 - 121 lbs) New Belt: 930 - 1,130 N (95 - 115 kgf, 209 - 254 lbs) Adjustment 3. Loosen the idler pulley center nut (A). 4. Turn the adjusting bolt (B) to obtain the proper belt tension, then retighten the idler pulley center nut. 5. Recheck the belt tension. 6. If you installed a new belt, run the engine for five minutes, then readjust the belt to the used belt specification. Deflection Method Inspection 1. Apply a force of 98 N (10 kgf, 22 lbs), and measure the deflection at the mid point (A) between the water pump and crankshaft pulleys. If the belt is worn or damaged, replace it. If the belt needs adjustment, go to step 2. Deflection: Page 7529 First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 5396 Fluid Pan: Specifications Design Specifications Information not supplied by the manufacturer. Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right Alignment: Customer Interest Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right 06-068 May 2, 2009 Applies To: ALL *Vehicle Pulls or Drifts, and/or Steering Wheel Is Off-Center (Supersedes 06-068, Vehicle Pulling or Drifting, dated October 4, 2007, to revise the information marked by asterisks) (Replaces 90-011, Steering Wheel Off-Center Adjustment at PDI)* *REVISION SUMMARY The title description was revised.* SYMPTOM While driving on a straight road, the vehicle pulls or drifts to the right or left. BACKGROUND New tools were developed to help you diagnose and correct a pulling and/or steering wheel off-center issue. There is a diagnosis worksheet included to take on your test-drive and record your findings. These values are used to build the 15-digit DTC (diagnostic trouble code) that is required for your warranty claim. The last step in each repair procedure helps you create the correct code. In the rare case that you have to repair a vehicle that pulls and has the steering wheel off-center, use REPAIR PROCEDURE B to file your warranty claim. For more information, refer to Training Module SSC 44 - Steering Drift or Pull Interactive Service Bulletin. PROBABLE CAUSES Several conditions can cause the vehicle to pull or drift: ^ Wheel alignment ^ Tires ^ Off-center steering wheel (no pulling or drifting, but a customer may believe this is the case) CORRECTIVE ACTION Diagnose the problem using the special tools and the worksheet on page 4 that guides you to one of four repair procedures. TOOL INFORMATION Centering Tape (enough to diagnose 240 vehicles): T/N O7AAJ-001A300 Steering Drift Set Level: T/N 07AAJ-00100 Steering Drift Set: T/N O7MJ-001A140 Replacement Weight for Steering Drift Set: T/N 07AAJ-001A400 WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Failed Part: P/N 53560-SDA-AO1 H/C 7139652 Page 3947 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. Page 3369 Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Testing and Inspection PGM-FI Main Relay Test PGM-FI Main Relay Test Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No.3 and No.4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals when power is disconnected. Page 2010 Connectors - "C" Page 6413 Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box Page 1044 Terminals - "T" Shielding Switches Fuses Page 6686 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 8523 6. Remove the three screws and the actuator (A). 7. Route the wire harness (A) of the new actuator through the hole in the bracket (B). 8. Install in the reverse of removal. Replace the three screws with new ones. 9. Insert the new actuator terminals into the connector in the original arrangement as shown above. 10. Operate the power mirror to check that the actuator works smoothly. Page 9179 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. Hybrid System - IMA Battery Module Warranty Extension Technical Service Bulletin # 06-057 Date: 110316 Hybrid System - IMA Battery Module Warranty Extension 06-057 March 16, 2011 Applies To: 2000-04 Insight - See VEHICLES AFFECTED Warranty Extension: Insight IMA Battery Module (Supersedes 06-057, dated October 18, 2007, to revise the information marked by the black bars and asterisks) *REVISION SUMMARY Under WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION, some operation number and flat rate time information was changed.* BACKGROUND NOTE: Because of a class action settlement, the warranty extension coverage for the IMA battery module on 2002-04 Insights purchased or leased between April 13, 2002, and November 7, 2006, is now 10 years or 157,500 miles, whichever occurs first. For more information, refer to Service Bulletin 06-085 Warranty Extension: Vehicle Warranty Mileage. To ensure continued reliability with the IMA system, American Honda is announcing an IMA battery module warranty extension for certain 2000-04 Insights. The IMA battery module is now covered for 10 years or 150,000 miles, whichever occurs first. This warranty extension applies to the 43 states not already covered by Service Bulletin 06-027, Warranty Extension: IMA Battery VEHICLES AFFECTED This warranty extension affects 2000-04 Insights registered in the shaded states on this map*: *2000-04 Insights registered in Arizona, California, Colorado, Florida, Hawaii, Nevada, and Texas are covered by Service Bulletin 06-027, Warranty Extension: IMA Battery. CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION Owners of affected vehicles within the 43 affected states will receive a notification of this warranty extension. An example of the warranty extension notification is at the end of this service bulletin. To verify warranty extension eligibility, you must do a VIN status inquiry. CORRECTIVE ACTION Replace the IMA battery module if it has failed. In addition, replace the battery condition monitor and the motor control module on 2000-01 models or, on 2002-04 models, replace the battery condition monitor only. Page 4567 Vehicle Speed Sensor: Testing and Inspection Vehicle Speed Signal Circuit Troubleshooting Special Tools Required: Test Harness 07LAJ-PT3020A Before testing, inspect the No. 4 (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box. 1. Disconnect the 3P connector from the VSS (vehicle speed sensor) (A). 2. Connect the test harness only to the engine wire harness. 3. Connect the RED test harness clip (B) to the positive prove of an ohmmeter. Cover the white (C) and green (D) test harness with protective tape (E). 4. Check for continuity between the RED test harness clip and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Go to step 5. NO - Repair open in the BLK wire between the VSS and G101. 5. Connect the WHT test harness clip (C) to the positive probe of a voltmeter, and connect the RED test harness clip (B) to the negative probe. 6. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 7. NO - Repair open in the BLK/YEL wire between the VSS and the under-dash fuse/relay box. 7. Disconnect the WHT test harness clip (C). Page 4148 DTC P1861 thru P2238 Page 5276 Shift Interlock Solenoid: Service and Repair Shift Lock Solenoid Replacement 1. Remove the front console. 2. Disconnect the shift lock solenoid connector. 3. Pry the shift lock solenoid clamp (A) with a screwdriver, and remove it. 4. Remove the shift lock solenoid. 5. Install the shift lock solenoid plunger (B) and plunger spring (C) in the new shift lock solenoid (D). 6. Install the shift lock solenoid by aligning the joint of the shift lock solenoid plunger with the tip of the shift lock stop (E). 7. Secure the shift lock solenoid with the solenoid clamp. 8. Connect the shift lock solenoid connector. 9. Install the front console. Page 403 DTC P0979 thru P1193 Page 1045 Diodes How to Identify Wiring Color-Coded Insulation Wire Color Page 7524 In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locater) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: - Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. Page 9206 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 4190 DTC P1253 thru P1459 Page 9479 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Gas Tank - Fuel Pump/Sending Unit Installation Tip Fuel Gauge Sender: Technical Service Bulletins Gas Tank - Fuel Pump/Sending Unit Installation Tip SOURCE: Honda Service News March 2003 TITLE: Installing an In-Tank Fuel Pump/Sending Unit? Don't Forget a New Base Gasket, Locknut, and Fuel Line Retainers APPLIES TO: See Models Listed In Illustration SERVICE TIP: Whenever you install an in-tank fuel pump/sending unit into a plastic fuel tank, the S/M tells you to install a new base gasket. But did you know you also need to replace the locknut and the fuel line retainers as well? Make a note in the Fuel Supply System subsection of the appropriate S/Ms to also replace the locknut and the fuel line retainers. Then follow this handy chart to order the appropriate parts. Install the new gasket on the fuel tank side, not on the fuel pump/sending unit side; this ensures that the gasket doesn't get pinched or rolled. If you don't install the fuel pump/sending unit correctly, the MIL could come on with an EVAP control system leakage DTC set. The gasket and the locknut are currently available in Honda parts stock under separate part numbers. But soon, they'll be packaged under a single part number. The fuel sending unit, gasket, and locknut will also be packaged together under a single part number. The gasket and the locknut will then be discontinued as separate part numbers. Page 9613 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. Page 991 18. Middle Rear of Engine Page 4331 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 8827 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. Page 192 Hazard Flasher Relay: Testing and Inspection Turn Signal/Hazard Relay Input Test 1. Remove the turn signal/hazard relay (A) from the under-dash fuse/relay box (B). 2. Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are all making good contact. - If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system. - If the terminals look OK, make the following input tests at the fuse/relay box socket. If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system. - If all the input tests prove OK, the turn signal/hazard relay must be faulty; replace it. Page 5545 6. Remove the brake disc retaining flat screws (A). 7. Screw two 8 x 1.25 mm bolts (B) into the disc to push it away from the hub. Turn each bolt two turns at a time to prevent cocking the disc excessively. 8. Remove the flange bolts (A) and wheel sensor (B) from the knuckle. Do not disconnect the wheel sensor connector. 9. Turn the front of the knuckle outward. Tap the driveshaft (A) inward with a plastic hammer to allow space to install the special tool on the lower arm ball joint. Page 8479 Doors - Component Location Index Page 9360 22. Back-up Light Switch (M/T) A/T - Vehicle Speed Sensor Installation Precautions Transmission Speed Sensor: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Vehicle Speed Sensor Installation Precautions Install VSS Properly to Avoid Reman A/T Damage We can't emphasize enough how important it is to follow, to the letter, the installation instructions that come with a reman A/T. These instructions help ensure that you avoid damaging the A/T and score a successful repair. This is particularly true when it comes to installing the vehicle speed sensor (VSS). Step 6 of the instructions tells you to make sure its gear is fully engaged and the VSS is fully seated before you tighten the retaining bolt. If you don't install the VSS properly, the speed sensor gear will get stripped and the A/T will be seriously damaged. So don't take risks with your customer's vehicle. Always follow these instructions to the letter. You can rest assured you're doing the job right. Control Panel 58. Middle of Dash Page 7842 Cavity Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity / terminal shown is # 6. Circuit Schematics Page 4036 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 1938 Page 9335 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Page 6439 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. Page 4836 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Locations 44. Under Left Side of Dash Page 821 Cavity Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity / terminal shown is # 6. Circuit Schematics Page 7170 5. Behind Middle of Bumper Page 7230 Cabin Temperature Sensor / Switch: Service and Repair In-car Temperature Sensor Replacement 1. Remove the in-car temperature sensor (A) from the dashboard, then disconnect the 2P connector (B) and the air hose (C). Be careful not to damage the sensor or the dashboard. 2. Install the sensor in the reverse order of removal. Be sure to connect the air hose securely. Page 6588 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 5534 7. Measure and mark the band with a felt-tip pen at the specified distance from the clip: ^ If you are installing a new boot, mark the band approximately 10 to 14 mm (0.4 to 0.6 in.) from the clip. ^ If you are reinstalling the original boot, mark the band 10 mm (0.4 in.) from the clip. 8. Thread the free end of the band through the nose section of the boot band tool and into the slot on the winding mandrel. 9. Take up the slack in the boot band by hand, then slowly turn the winding mandrel with a wrench. Tighten the band until the mark you made in step 7 meets the edge of the clip. 10. Raise up the boot band tool to bend the free end of the band 90 degrees, then center-punch the clip to hold the band temporarily. Page 6567 Fuse Block: Connector Views 174. Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box Part 1 Page 1012 Dimmer Switch: Diagnostic Aids Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Page 4711 40. Injectors Locations Door Switch: Locations 85. Left B-pillar 90. Right B-pillar Page 8906 Door Switch: Diagnostic Aids Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Page 1085 3. Using the tool, loosen the fuel tank unit locknut (A). 4. Remove the bracket (A), the fuel pressure regulator assembly (B), the fuel filter (C), the fuel tank unit (D), the case (E), and the wire harness (F). 5. When connecting the fuel pump, make sure the connection is secure and the suction filter (G) is firmly connected to the fuel pump (H). 6. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal with a new base gasket (I), then check these items: - When connecting the wire harness, make sure the connection is secure and the connector (J) is firmly locked into the place. - Do not push the lower part of the suction filter. - When installing the fuel gauge sending unit, make sure the connection is secure and the connector is firmly locked into place. Be careful not to bend or twist it excessively. - When installing the fuel pump assembly, align the marks (K) on the fuel tank (L) and the fuel pump assembly (M). Page 4871 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 7135 EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 1538 The road crown gauge measures the amount of road crown. Almost all roads have a crown to help drain water during rainstorms. Use the suction cup to attach the road crown gauge bracket to the vehicle in a vertical position. If necessary, bend the bracket until the gauge is vertical. Once you attach and align the road crown gauge, calibrate the gauge to zero. There are two ways to calibrate the gauge: ^ Park the vehicle on a level surface, such as an alignment rack, and calibrate the gauge by moving the gauge until the ball is on the zero mark. ^ If you do not have a perfectly flat surface, park the vehicle on a reasonably flat surface and note the gauge reading. Turn the vehicle 1800 and, with the tires in the same spot, note the new gauge reading. Then move the gauge half of the difference. For example, if your first reading is +3 and, after moving the vehicle, the gauge reads -1, then the difference is 4 degrees. Position the gauge to read +1. NOTE: You must calibrate the gauge with the same weight in the vehicle that you will use for the test-drive. If you plan to have an assistant help you during the test-drive, calibrate the gauge while both of you are sitting in the vehicle. Page 7152 Air Door Actuator / Motor: Testing and Inspection Mode Control Motor Test Mode Control Motor Test 1. Disconnect the 7P connector from the mode control motor. 2. Connect battery power to the No. 1 terminal of the mode control motor, and ground the No. 7 terminal. To avoid damaging the mode control motor, do not reverse power and ground. Using a jumper wire, connect the No. 7 terminal individually to the No. 2, 3, 4, 5, and 6 terminal in that order. Each time the connection is made, the mode control motor should run smoothly and stop. If the mode control motor does not run when jumping the first terminal, jump that terminal.again after jumping the other terminals. The mode control motor is OK if it runs when jumping the first terminal again. 3. If the mode control motor does not run in step 2, remove it, then check the mode control linkage and doors for smooth movement. - If the linkage and doors move smoothly, replace the mode control motor. - If the linkage or doors stick or bind, repair them as needed. Page 8527 36. Left Side of Dash Page 5267 Page 7920 Programming the Transmitter 1. Locate the security system control unit under the driver's seat. 2. Rub your finger over the label on the top of the control unit until you find the depression. Once you find it, push your finger through the label to expose the hole underneath. Inside the hole is a square, yellow button; this is the programming button. 3. Turn the ignition switch to ON, then turn it to LOCK. 4. Press and hold the programming button. Check that the security siren emits four separate chirps followed by a five-chirp burst. This confirms that the system is in programming mode. The siren then emits prompting chirps at 3-second intervals. 5. Release the programming button. 6. After a prompting chirp, press the "LOCK" button on the transmitter. Verify that the siren emits a confirmation chirp to confirm that the transmitter's code was accepted by the control unit. If you wait more than 30 seconds after the prompting chirp before programming a transmitter, or wait more than 30 seconds between programming transmitters, the siren emits three chirps and the system exits the programming mode. 7. To program additional transmitters, wait for another prompting chirp, then press the "LOCK" button. (You can program up to four transmitters per vehicle.) 8. To exit the programming mode, turn the ignition switch to ON, then turn it to LOCK. 9. Test all the transmitters. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda using normal parts ordering procedures. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery number is 23-144 (Radio Shack), A-23 (Eveready), or MS-21/MN-21 (Duracell). Each transmitter uses one battery. Page 9101 Oil Pressure Sender: Service and Repair Oil Pressure Switch Replacement 1. Remove the throttle body. 2. Disconnect the oil pressure switch connector, then remove the oil pressure switch. 3. Apply liquid gasket to the oil pressure switch, then install the oil pressure switch. 4. Install the throttle body. Page 7081 Wheel Bearing: Testing and Inspection Wheel Bearing End Play Inspection 1. Raise the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper location. Remove the wheels. On the rear, remove the fender skirts before removing the wheels. 2. Install suitable flat washers (A) and wheel nuts, and tighten the nuts to the specified torque to hold the brake disc or drum securely against the hub. Front Rear 3. Set up the dial gauge against the hub flange as shown, and measure the bearing end play while moving the brake disc or drum inward and outward. Bearing end play: Standard: Front/Rear: 0 - 0.05 mm (0 - 0.002 inch) 4. If the bearing end play is more than the standard, replace the wheel bearing. Page 8030 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. Page 2796 9. Measure voltage at the junction board terminals. ^ If the reading is 30 V or less, the capacitors are discharged enough for you to continue; go to step 10. ^ If the reading is more than 30 V, there is a problem with the IMA system. Troubleshoot the system using the IMA section of the service manual, then continue with this procedure. 10. Lift out the battery module foam insert. 11. Replace the BCM (2002-04 Insights) or the BCM and the MCM (2000-01 Insights): ^ Remove the mounting bolts. ^ Disconnect the connectors: The BCM has three; the MCM has five. Locations 80. Middle Front of Roof Page 4993 51. Under Left Side of Dash Page 3671 Cylinder Identification Sensor: Service and Repair TDC1/TDC2 Sensors Replacement 1. Disconnect connectors from the TDC1 sensor and TDC2 sensor. Remove the TDC1 sensor (A) and the TDC2 sensor (B). 2. Install the TDC1 sensor and the TDC2 sensor using new O-rings (C). Page 1746 1. Before adding any leak-detection dye, check to see if there is dye in the system now. ^ Check for a label in the engine compartment indicating that fluorescent leak-detection dye has been added to the system. ^ Dye may have been added even though no label is present. To confirm this: - Put on the fluorescence-enhancing glasses, and remove the low-side service port sealing cap. - Direct the ultraviolet lamp into the valve stem area. If dye has been previously added, the lubricant traces will have a bright yellow fluorescent glow. You may need to press the port's valve stem briefly to release some lubricant and dye from the system. ^ If there is no dye in the system, go to step 2. ^ If there is dye in the system, go to step 5. Do not add more dye. 2. Add the dye. NOTE: Air and moisture must be evacuated from the universal connect set if it is being used for the first time, or if it has been stored with the control valve open. If the air and moisture have been evacuated, go to step 3; otherwise do the following: (a) Attach the empty dye capsule (provided in the dye kit) to the control valve fitting. (b) Attach the service valve fitting (provided in the kit) to the empty dye capsule. (c) Attach the low-side hose of the A/C recovery and charging station, and open the quick coupler's hand-wheel valve. Then open the control valve (black knob) on the universal connect set. (d) Following the manufacturer's instructions for your recovery and charging station, evacuate the universal connect set for approximately 3 minutes. (e) When evacuation is complete, be sure the set's control valve is closed (finger tight), and disconnect the NC recovery and charging station. (f) Remove the service valve fitting and the empty dye capsule from the set, and store them for future use. NOTE: ^ Check the refrigerant charge level. There must be enough refrigerant in the system to operate the A/C compressor and to circulate refrigerant oil. ^ If the refrigerant charge is too low, recover the remaining amount and recharge the system before adding any dye. (g) Start the vehicle and operate the A/C system. Follow your A/C refrigerant recovery and charging station's operating instructions for low-side charging to install the dye. * NOTE: Only 0.05 lb (0.02 kg) of refrigerant is needed to push the dye into the A/C system.* (h) Once the refrigerant charge is programmed, open the control valve on the set to allow the dye to enter the system. (i) After the dye capsule clears, allow the low-side of the A/C system to reach its lowest operating pressure, then quickly close both the service equipment's low-side coupler valve and the control valve on the set. (j) Remove the set from the vehicle by releasing its quick coupler. Remove the empty dye capsule from the service valve fitting. Return the hose, control valve, and service-valve fitting to the storage case. * NOTE: Store the hose with the control valve closed. This will retain a small amount of refrigerant in the hose so it does not have to be evacuated the next time you use it.* (k) Fill out an identification label (provided in the kit), and attach it to a location near the A/C charge label. Page 3876 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 8297 First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Locations Page 6347 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: Page 4265 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 3811 DTC P0750 thru P0977 Page 8124 - Shift to the D position, then to the N position. - Turn off the engine. It is best to tow the vehicle no farther than 50 miles (80 km), and keep the speed below 35 mph (55 km/h). NOTE: - Improper preparation will damage the transmission. Follow the above procedure exactly. If you cannot shift the transmission, the vehicle must be transported on a flat-bed. - Trying to lift or tow the vehicle by the bumpers will cause serious damage. The bumpers are not designed to support the vehicle's weight. Page 5097 Camshaft Position Sensor: Diagrams 63. TDC Sensor 1 64. TDC Sensor 2 Page 1195 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. Page 7080 Page 1911 Is there about 5 V? YES - Replace the sensor that restored about 5 V when disconnected. NO - Go to step 49. 49. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 50. Disconnect the 3P connectors from the following sensors. - Exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) valve position sensor - Brake booster pressure sensor - Fuel tank pressure (FTP) sensor - Throttle position (TP) sensor 51. Disconnect ECM connector C (31P). 52. Check for continuity between ECM connector terminal C28 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Repair short in the wire between the ECM (C28) and the EGR valve position sensor, brake booster pressure sensor, FTP sensor, or TP sensor. NO - Update the ECM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM, replace the original ECM. 53. Measure voltage between body ground and ECM connector terminal B6. Is there about 5 V? YES - Update the ECM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM, replace the original ECM. NO - Go to step 54. 54. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 55. Disconnect the TCM 22P connector. 56. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). Page 6244 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. Page 8402 Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Description and Operation SRS Operation SRS Operation The main circuit in the SRS unit senses and judges the force of impact and, if necessary, ignites the inflator charges. If battery voltage is too low or power is disconnected due to impact, the voltage regulator and the back-up power circuit respectively will keep voltage at a constant level. For the SRS to operate: 1. The impact sensor must activate and send electronic signals to the microprocessor. 2. The microprocessor must compute the signals and send them to the airbag inflators (and seat belt tensioners). 3. The inflators must ignite and deploy the airbags (and activate the tensioners). Self-diagnosis System A self-diagnosis circuit is built into the SRS unit; when the ignition switch is turned ON (II), the SRS indicator comes on and goes off after about 6 seconds if the SRS is operating normally. If the indicator does not come on, or does not go off after six seconds, or if it comes on while driving, it indicates an abnormality in the SRS. The SRS must be inspected and repaired as soon as possible. For better serviceability, the memory will store the cause of the malfunction, and the data link circuit passes on information from memory to the data link connector (DLC). This information can be read with the Honda PGM Tester connected to the DLC (16P). Page 3226 51. Under Left Side of Dash Page 1998 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. Locations 23. Left Rear of Engine Compartment Locations Fuel Supply System - Component Location Index Page 8206 Wire Color Abbreviations Page 1188 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 2990 9. Remove the Intelligent Power Unit (IPU) lid (six Torx bolts and 17 hex bolts). 10. Measure the voltage between the junction board terminals. There should be 10 volts or less. ^ If you have more than 10 volts, there is a problem in the IMA system. Look for and troubleshoot any DTCs before continuing. ^ If you have 10 volts or less, continue to step 11. 11. Lift the foam insert out of the battery module. Page 8864 Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow from power at the top of the diagram to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another for example is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors Page 3347 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 6826 Power Steering Motor: Service and Repair Replacement NOTE: Do not allow dust, dirt, or other foreign materials to enter the gearbox. 1. Remove the steering gearbox. 2. Remove the motor (A) and O-ring (B) from the gearbox. 3. Apply a thin coat of silicone grease to the new O-ring, and carefully fit it on the motor. 4. Apply steering gear grease around the pinion shaft (c). 5. Install the new motor on the gearbox by engaging the motor shaft (D) and pinion shaft (c). Note the motor installation position (direction of motor wires (E)). 6. Install the gearbox. 7. After installation, start the engine, and let it idle. Turn the steering wheel from lock-to-lock several times. Check that the EPS indicator does not come on. Page 4689 All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416 etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector or by a capital letter (A, B, C etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Connector Views that shows the connector terminals wire colors connector cavity numbers and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints shown on diagram [8] . Except for the DLC (data link connector) disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554 for example means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Page 29 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 837 EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Locations 96. Left Rear Side of PCU Page 8361 Splices Components Ground - "G" Page 5758 ABS Control Unit Inputs and Outputs for 25P Connector Locations Instrument Panel View Page 7769 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: - Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest OHMS" range. Page 242 Wire Color Abbreviations Page 8972 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. Page 2308 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 453 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 8883 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. Page 4420 11. Middle of Engine Campaign - Integrated Motor Assist Controller Update Technical Service Bulletin # 01-102 Date: 011127 Campaign - Integrated Motor Assist Controller Update 01-102 November 27, 2001 Applies To: 2000-01 Insight with M/T - See VEHICLES AFFECTED Product Update: IMA Controller Modification BACKGROUND The IMA (Integrated Motor Assist) system supplies power to various 12-volt loads on the vehicle (lights, radio, windows, etc.) and assists the engine to improve vehicle performance. In very cold weather, power demands on the IMA battery module can exceed output, causing permanent damage to the battery module. VEHICLES AFFECTED Not all 2000-01 Insights with M/T are affected by this product update. Only vehicles that are registered and normally driven in cold weather areas are affected. Before you begin, verify that the vehicle is registered in one of the states affected by the update (see the map). Then check for vehicle eligibility by doing one of the following. ^ Verify that the customer has a notification letter. ^ Check the vehicle's VIN on your campaign responsibility report. ^ Do a VIN status inquiry on DCS. CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION All owners of affected vehicles will be sent a notification of this product update. An example of the customer notification. CORRECTIVE ACTION Replace the battery condition monitor (BCM) module and the motor control module (MCM). PARTS INFORMATION Page 1661 Used Belt: 7.5 - 10.5 mm (0.30 - 0.41 inch) New Belt: 4.0 - 6.0 mm (0.16 - 0.24 inch) Adjustment 2. Loosen the idler pulley center nut (B). 3. Turn the adjusting bolt (C) to obtain the proper belt deflection, then retighten the idler pulley center nut. 4. Recheck the belt deflection. 5. If you installed a new belt, run the engine for five minutes, then readjust the belt to the used belt specification. Starting System - Unable To Key In Ignition Switch Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: Technical Service Bulletins Starting System - Unable To Key In Ignition Switch Can't Turn Ignition Switch? Check for Locked Steering Got a service customer complaining he or she can't turn the ignition switch to start the engine? The reason could just be the steering column lock pin is engaged with the front wheels turned. Here's what typically happens: Some folks use the steering wheel to help support themselves while climbing in or out of the vehicle. This is very common among elderly or disabled drivers. Doing this turns the front wheels, which twists the tires against the ground. The twisted tires apply torque to the steering column. With the ignition switch in LOCK (0), the steering column lock pin is engaged. But the applied torque on the steering column binds the lock pin, making it tough to turn the ignition switch. The ignition switch won't turn to ON (II) if the lock pin isn't disengaged from the steering column. Tell your customer there's nothing wrong with the ignition switch itself. All he or she needs to do is turn the steering wheel from side to side while turning the switch. This usually releases the lock pin so the engine can be started. In some cases, though, your customer may need to give a good tug on the wheel. This could easily happen when parking on a hill and the wheels are turned sharply before the engine is shut off. Page 9117 Diodes How to Identify Wiring Color-Coded Insulation Wire Color Page 3239 All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416 etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector or by a capital letter (A, B, C etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at Shortcuts to Popular Information/Connector Views that shows the connector terminals wire colors connector cavity numbers and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints shown on diagram [8] . Except for the DLC (data link connector) disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554 for example means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Page 3215 Engine Control Module: Service and Repair ECM/PCM Idle Learn Procedure ECM Idle Learn Procedure The idle learn procedure must be done so that the ECM can learn the engine idle characteristics. Do the idle learn procedure whenever you do any of these actions: - Disconnect the battery. - Replace the ECM or disconnect its connector. - Reset the ECM. NOTE: Erasing DTCs with Honda PGM Tester does require the idle learn procedure to be done again. - Remove the No.18 (7.5 A) fuse from the under-dash fuse/relay box. - Remove the No.2 (80 A) fuse from the under-hood fuse/relay box. - Remove the PGM-FI main relay. - Remove the battery wire from the under-hood fuse/relay box. - Disconnect any of the connectors from the under-hood fuse/relay box. - Disconnect the connector (C103, C502) between the dashborad wire harness and engine wire harness. - Disconnect the G1 terminal from the transmission housing. - Adjust the idle speed. To complete the idle learn procedure do this: 1. Make sure all electrical items (A/C, audio, rear defogger, lights, etc.) are turned off. 2. Start the engine. Hold the engine speed at 3,000 rpm with no load (in Park or neutral) until the radiator fan comes on, or the engine coolant temperature reaches 176 °F (80 °) - 221 °F (100 °). 3. Let the engine idle for about 5 minutes with the throttle fully closed and with all electrical items off. NOTE: If the radiator fan comes on during this step, the time when it is operating must not be included in the 5 minutes. Page 8594 113. Below Left Side of Cargo Area Speedo/Odometer Read Excessive Speed & Distance Speedometer Head: Technical Service Bulletins Speedo/Odometer Read Excessive Speed & Distance SOURCE: Honda Service News February 2004 TITLE: Speedo/Odo Read Excessive Speed and Distance APPLIES TO: 2000-04 Insight, 2000-04 S2000 SERVICE TIP: If an owner complains of the speedometer reading way too high and the odometer clicking off way too many miles, the problem could simply be the speedometer and odometer are set to read kilometers instead of miles. The mph/km/h button on the Insight gauge assembly (it's the SEL button for S2000s) switches the speedometer reading between miles per hour and kilometers per hour. It also switches the odometer and the trip meters to read in miles or kilometers. To switch the speedometer/odometer readings in an Insight, press the mph/km/h button. To switch the readings in an S2000, press and hold the SEL button until you hear a beep. Page 6646 Relay Box: Connector Views 174. Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box Part 1 Service and Repair Maintenance Required Lamp/Indicator: Service and Repair To Reset the MAINT REQD Indicator: 1. Turn off engine. 2. Press and hold the trip button in the instrument panel, then turn the ignition switch ON (II). 3. Hold the button until the indicator resets (approximately ten seconds.) With A/C Radiator Cooling Fan Motor: Description and Operation With A/C Voltage is provided at all times to the radiator fan relay contacts through fuse 11, and to the condenser fan relay contacts through fuse 19. With the ignition switch in ACC (I) or ON (II), voltage is provided to the coils of the relays through fuse 16 (in the under-dash fuse/relay box). The relays are grounded by either the radiator fan switch or by the ECM (only the condenser fan relay). Grounding the relays energizes their coils and applies battery voltage to the radiator and condenser fan motors. Both fans then run until the fan switch or the ECM remove ground from the relay. Page 1472 Transmission Mode Switch: Service and Repair Mode Switch Replacement 1. Remove the screws securing the mode switch, then remove the switch. 2. Disconnect the connector from the switch. 3. Install the new mode switch. Page 4255 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 545 Connectors - "C" Page 8024 Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution diagram set to get a more detailed picture of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Page 9754 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. Locations Headlamp Relay: Locations Relay And Control Unit Location - Engine Compartment Page 236 Relay Box: Connector Locations Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box Page 5851 19. Install the hub bearing unit (A) on the knuckle (B), and tighten the flange bolts (C) to the specified torque. 20. Install the splash guard. NOTE: Replace the splash guard if it is corroded. 21. Press a new hub bearing unit (A) into the hub (B) using the special tools and a press. 22. Install the knuckle/hub/hub bearing unit in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - Use a new spindle nut on reassembly. - Before installing the spindle nut, apply a small amount of engine oil to the seating surface of the nut. After tightening, use a drift to stake the spindle nut shoulder against the driveshaft. - Tighten all mounting hardware to the specified torque values. - Before installing the hub/hub bearing unit, clean the mating surface of the hub/hub bearing unit and the knuckle. - Before installing the brake disc, clean the mating surface of the hub and the inside of the brake disc. Page 7921 96-97 Passport With Dealer-Installed Security System 1996-97 Passport with dealer-installed security system NOTES: ^ The system uses a stacking-type memory that accepts up to two transmitters. If you program a third transmitter, the memory for the first transmitter is pushed out, and it will no longer work. ^ To clear a lost or stolen transmitter from the system's memory, program a transmitter two times. This will remove the missing transmitter from memory, since only two transmitter codes can be accepted. ^ Another way to clear a lost or stolen transmitter is to erase all transmitter codes and then reprogram them. To do this, refer to the security system owner's manual. Programming the Transmitter 1. Move the driver's seat forward. Locate the security system control unit mounted on the floor underneath the seat. 2. Turn the ignition switch to ON. 3. Use a pen or pencil to press and hold the green programming button on the side of the control unit. When the security system LED on the instrument panel comes on, release the programming button. (Steps 3 and 4 must be done within 5 seconds of each other.) 4. Press and release the top button on the transmitter. Verify that the LED goes out, the siren chirps once, and the front sidemarker lights flash to confirm that the transmitter's code was accepted by the control unit. 5. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK, then to ON. Page 7690 Air Bag Control Module: Vehicle Damage Warnings SRS Unit Precautions - Be careful not to bump or impact the SRS unit whenever the ignition switch is ON (II), or for at least 3 minutes after the ignition switch is turned OFF. - During installation or replacement, be careful not to bump (by impact wrench, hammer, etc.) the area around the SRS unit. The airbags could accidentally deploy and cause damage or injury. - After a collision in which the airbags were deployed, replace the SRS unit. After a collision in which the airbags were not deployed, inspect for any damage or any deformation on the SRS unit. If there is any damage, replace the SRS unit. - Do not disassemble the SRS unit. - Turn the ignition switch OFF, disconnect the battery negative cable and wait at least 3 minutes before beginning installation or replacement of the SRS unit, and disconnection of the 18P connector. - Be sure the SRS unit is installed securely with the mounting bolts torqued to 9.8 N.m (1.0 kgf.m, 7.2 lbf.ft). - Do not spill water or oil on the SRS unit, and keep it away from dust. - Store the SRS unit in a cool (less than 104 °F/40 °C) and dry (less than 80% relative humidity, no moisture) area. Page 9204 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: - Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest OHMS" range. Page 130 30. Left Front Side of Engine Compartment Specifications Wheels: Specifications Wheel Fasteners (Lug Nuts) 108 nm Air Bag Disarming and Arming Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Service and Repair Air Bag Disarming and Arming General Precautions Please read the following precautions carefully before performing the airbag system service. Observe the instructions described or the airbags could accidentally deploy and cause damage or injuries. Except when performing electrical inspections, always turn the ignition switch OFF and disconnect the negative cable from the battery, and wait at least three minutes before beginning work. NOTE: The contents in the memory is not erased even if the ignition switch is turned OFF or the battery cables are disconnected from the battery. Use the replacement parts which are manufactured to the same standards as the original parts and quality. Do not install used SRS parts from another vehicle. Use only new parts when making SRS repairs. Carefully inspect any SRS part before you install it. Do not install any part that shows signs of being dropped or improperly handled, such as dents, cracks or deformation. Before removing any of the SRS parts (including the disconnection of the connectors), always disconnect the SRS connector. Use only a digital multimeter to check the system. If it is not a Honda multimeter, make sure its output is 10 mA (0.01 A) or less when switched to the lowest value in the ohmmeter range. A tester with a higher output could cause accidental deployment and possible injury. Do not put objects on the front passenger's airbag. The original radio has a coded theft protection circuit. Be sure to get the customer's radio code before disconnecting the battery cable. Page 8130 169. BCM Module Page 72 4. With the connector still disconnected, make these input tests at the connector. - If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system. - If all the input tests prove OK, go to step 5. Page 4282 ECM/PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector C (31P) Part 2 Page 9043 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 9290 Parking Brake Warning Switch: Testing and Inspection Parking Brake Switch Test 1. Remove the console, and disconnect the connector (A) from the switch (B). 2. Check for continuity between the positive terminal and body ground: ^ With the brake lever up, there should be continuity. ^ With the brake lever down, there should be no continuity. Page 3742 Page 2284 Wire Color Coding Distinct Of Circuit By Wire Base Color All wires have color-coded insulation. Wires belonging to a system's main harness will have a single color. Wires belonging to a system's sub-circuits will have a colored stripe. Striped wires use the codes found in the chart to show wire size and colors. Abbreviations are used to indicate wire color within a circuit diagram. Wire Color Abbreviations The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics: WHT................................... White YEL................................... Yellow BLK................................... Black BLU................................... Blue GRN................................... Green RED................................... Red ORN................................... Orange PNK................................... Pink BRN................................... Brown GRY................................... Gray PUR................................... Purple LT BLU................................... Light Blue LT GRN................................... Light Green The wire insulation has one color or one color with another color stripe. The second color is the stripe. How to Identify Connector Terminals How to Identify Connector Terminals A/T - Fixing Banjo Bolt Leaks Fluid Line/Hose: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Fixing Banjo Bolt Leaks SOURCE: Honda Service News TITLE: Fixing A/T Banjo Bolt Leaks APPLIES TO: All models SERVICE TIP: Got ATF leaking from any of the A/T banjo bolts? The first thing you need to do is replace the sealing washers. Next, start threading the banjo and line bracket bolts in their holes. Finally, torque the banjo bolt to 31 Nm (22 lb-ft) and the line bracket bolt to 9.8 Nm (7.2 lb-ft.). NOTE: The banjo bolt torque spec we're recommending is slightly higher than what's listed in the S/M. This is intentional. If you torque just the banjo bolt, you won't really fix the leak. ATF leaks at the banjo bolt stem from the line bracket getting tightened before the banjo bolt. This can misalign the banjo joint, causing the banjo bolt sealing washers not to contact their mating surfaces evenly. Once the sealing washers have been used, you must replace them. Page 6096 40. Upper Left Kick Panel Area Page 846 Page 4677 8. Front of Engine Page 8053 Speaker: Connector Locations Page 1373 94. TP Sensor Page 3508 121. EGR Valve And EGR Valve Position Sensor Page 9566 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: Page 38 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 4185 DTC P0158 thru P0400 Page 4321 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 7594 57. Top Middle of Dash Page 7458 Low ambient light conditions (a dark work area) will aid in locating the leak. NOTE: Not all UV lamps work well with all types of fluorescent dye. Use only the lamp provided in the kit to inspect for leaks. (c) Inspect the entire system. Be sure to check these locations: ^ damaged and corroded areas ^ fittings ^ hose-to-line couplings ^ refrigerant controls ^ service ports ^ brazed or welded areas ^ areas near attachment points (d) Check for evaporator leaks by illuminating the evaporator drain tube area with the UV lamp and glasses. (e) After repairing a leak, remove any fluorescent residue using the GLO-AWAY dye cleaner from the kit and hot water (follow the instructions on the bottle). Disclaimer Hybrid System - IMA Indicator ON/DTC's P1447/P1449 Battery Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins Hybrid System - IMA Indicator ON/DTC's P1447/P1449 04-028 March 16, 2011 Applies To: 2000-04 Insight - ALL IMA System Indicator On With IMA DTC 77 (P1447) or DTC 78 (P1449) (Supersedes 04-028, dated April 30, 2010, to revise the information marked by the black bars and asterisks) *REVISION SUMMARY Under WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION, some operation number and flat rate time information was changed.* PROBLEM The IMA system indicator comes on and IMA DTC 77 (P1447) (battery module deterioration) or DTC 78 (P1449) (battery module deterioration) is set. CORRECTIVE ACTION Replace the battery module. Inspect the motor control module (MCM) and the battery condition monitor (BCM) to determine if they also need to be replaced. PARTS INFORMATION WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION The normal warranty applies. NOTE: IMA components (battery module, battery condition monitor, and motor control module) are covered under warranty for 8 years or 80,000 miles, whichever comes first. Page 9005 Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Description and Operation SRS Operation SRS Operation The main circuit in the SRS unit senses and judges the force of impact and, if necessary, ignites the inflator charges. If battery voltage is too low or power is disconnected due to impact, the voltage regulator and the back-up power circuit respectively will keep voltage at a constant level. For the SRS to operate: 1. The impact sensor must activate and send electronic signals to the microprocessor. 2. The microprocessor must compute the signals and send them to the airbag inflators (and seat belt tensioners). 3. The inflators must ignite and deploy the airbags (and activate the tensioners). Self-diagnosis System A self-diagnosis circuit is built into the SRS unit; when the ignition switch is turned ON (II), the SRS indicator comes on and goes off after about 6 seconds if the SRS is operating normally. If the indicator does not come on, or does not go off after six seconds, or if it comes on while driving, it indicates an abnormality in the SRS. The SRS must be inspected and repaired as soon as possible. For better serviceability, the memory will store the cause of the malfunction, and the data link circuit passes on information from memory to the data link connector (DLC). This information can be read with the Honda PGM Tester connected to the DLC (16P). Page 3005 170. Voltage Converter Module Page 10239 Back Window Glass: Service and Repair Upper Rear Window Molding Replacement Upper Rear Window Molding Replacement NOTE: - Put on gloves to protect your hands. - Use seat covers to avoid damaging any surfaces. 1. Remove the upper rear window. 2. Place the upper rear window upside down on a padded surface. 3. Remove the molding from the edge of the upper rear window. If necessary, cut the molding with a utility knife. 4. Replace the rubber dams, fasteners, and spacers with new ones. 5. Set the upper rear window (A) in the opening, and center it. Make alignment marks (B) across the window and body with a grease pencil at the four points shown. Place the hatch spoiler trim (C) on the hatch, and make alignment marks (D) on the window with a grease pencil at both sides. Be careful not to touch the window where adhesive will be applied. 6. Remove the upper rear window. 7. Install the new molding (A) around the edge of the upper rear window (B): - Be sure the alignment mark (C) of the molding line up with the alignment mark (printed dot) (D) on the upper rear window. - With tape, hold the molding to prevent it from lifting away. - Be careful not to touch the window where adhesive will be applied. Page 7425 5. Remove the mounting nut from the heater unit. Take care not to damage or bend the fuel lines, the brake lines, etc. 6. Remove the dashboard. 7. With air conditioning remove the evaporator. Without air conditioning remove the heater duct. 8. Remove the mounting bolts in the following sequence, then remove the center bracket (A), knee bolster (B), and the hanger beam (C). Page 7069 Tires: Specifications Design Specification Tires Size Front and rear tires M/T ...................................................................................................................................................... ........................................ 165/65 R14 79S CVT ................................................................................. ............................................................................................... 165/65 R14 78S (M + S) Spare tire ............................................................................................................................................. ............................................ T115/70D14 88M Diagram Information and Instructions Dimmer Switch: Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System Terminal Numbering System The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown below is #6. Page 5812 EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 9693 Splices Components Ground - "G" Page 1255 34. ECT Sensor Page 5043 122. Fuel Consumption Display Select Switch Page 2147 Piston Ring: Service and Repair For further information regarding this component and the system it is a part of, please refer to Cylinder Block Assembly; Service and Repair. Locations Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Locations Relay And Control Unit Locations - Dashboard Locations Camshaft Position Sensor: Locations PGM-FI System - Component Location Index Rear Window Wiper Motor - Radio Static Radio/Stereo: All Technical Service Bulletins Rear Window Wiper Motor - Radio Static 00-043 April 5, 2000 Applies To: 2000 Insight - From VIN JHMZE1...YT000001 thru JHMZE1...YT000569 Product Update: Insight Rear Window Wiper Motor BACKGROUND Because the rear window wiper motor is not adequately grounded, static is developed on AM radio stations when the wiper is operating. CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION All owners of affected vehicles will be mailed a notification of this product update. The text of the customer notification is at the end of this service bulletin. CORRECTIVE ACTION Add a grounding sub-harness to the rear window wiper motor. PARTS INFORMATION Sub-harness Kit: P/N 06320-S3Y-000, H/C 6441109 WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION Operation Number: 741104 Flat Rate Time: 0.5 hour Failed Part: P/N 76710-S3Y-A01 H/C 6350052 Defect Code: 546 Contention Code: K86 Template ID: 00-043A Skill Level: Repair Technician REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Open the rear hatch. Remove the two trim panel clips next to the striker. 2. Use a flat-tip screwdriver wrapped with tape or a cloth to remove the rear hatch trim panel. 3. Unclip the connector retaining clip from the wiper motor mounting bracket. Page 4966 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: Recall 04V086000: Headlamp Switch/Connector Defect Headlamp Switch: All Technical Service Bulletins Recall 04V086000: Headlamp Switch/Connector Defect DEFECT: On certain passenger vehicles, the low-beam terminal on the head light wire harness can overheat and could cause the low beams to fail without warning. An unexpected loss of low beams could result in a crash. REMEDY: Dealers will inspect the head light switch and coupler for signs of heat damage. If heat damage is present, the dealer will replace the switch and coupler. If no heat damage is present, the dealer will replace the head light switch and one mating pin in the coupler. The manufacturer has reported that owner notification was to begin on April 5, 2004 . Owners may contact Honda at 1-800-999-1009. Page 5700 204. TCM (CVT) Page 3712 away with a known-good ECM, replace the original ECM. NO - Repair open in the wire between DLC terminal No.7 and the ECM (A21). After repairing the wire, check the DTC with the OBD II scan tool/Honda PGM Tester and go to the DTC Troubleshooting index. See: Testing and Inspection/Diagnostic Trouble Code Descriptions 10. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 11. Disconnect ECM connector A (32P). 12. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 13. Measure voltage between DLC terminals No.5 and No.7. Is there 0 V? YES - Update the ECM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM, replace the original ECM. NO - Repair short to power in the wire between the DLC terminal No.7 and the ECM (A21). After repairing the wire, check the DTC with the OBD II scan tool/Honda PGM Tester and go to the DTC Troubleshooting index. See: Testing and Inspection/Diagnostic Trouble Code Descriptions Specifications Page 3302 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Page 238 Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box Page 6307 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. Page 4699 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 4194 DTC P1861 thru P2238 Locations 49. Under Left Side of Dash (Honda Accessory) Page 1163 Combination Switch: Service and Repair Combination Light Switch Test/Replacement 1. Remove the steering column covers. 2. Disconnect the 16P connector (B) from the combination light switch (A). 3. Remove the two screws, then pull out the switch. 4. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table. If the continuity check is not as specified, replace the switch. Component Locations Keyless Entry Module: Component Locations 38. Under Left Side of Dash 43. Under Left Side of Dash (Honda Accessory) Page 7686 55. Under Middle of Dash Page 1387 29. CKP Sensor Page 2286 Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow from power at the top of the diagram to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another for example is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors Page 4061 19. Disconnect each of the components or the connectors below, one at a time, and check for continuity between PGM-FI main relay (IGP) 4P connector terminal No.1 and body ground. PGM-FI main relay (FUEL PUMP) - ECM connector B (25P) - Each injector 2P connector - Idle air control (IAC) valve 3P connector Is there continuity? YES - Go to step 20. NO - Replace the component that made continuity to body ground go away when disconnected. If the item is the ECM, update the ECM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM, replace the original ECM. Also replace the No.7 (15 A) fuse. 20. Disconnect the connectors of all these components. - PGM-FI main relay (FUEL PUMP) - ECM connector B (25P) - Injectors - Idle air control (IAC) valve 21. Check for continuity between PGM-FI main relay (IGP) 4P connector terminal No.2 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Repair short in the wire between the PGM-FI main relay (IGP) and each item. Also replace the No.7 (15 A) fuse. NO - Replace the PGM-FI main relay (IGP). Also replace the No.7 (15 A) fuse. 22. Inspect the No.2 (15 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box. Is the fuse OK? YES - Go to step 29. NO - Go to step 23. 23. Remove the blown No.2 (15 A) fuse in the underdash fuse/relay box. Page 1999 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 2663 16. Connect the battery module fan 2P connector terminal No. 2 and body ground with a jumper wire. 17. Check for continuity between body ground and the low speed battery module fan control relay 4P connector terminal No. 2. Is there continuity? YES- Go to step 18. NO- Repair open in the wire between the battery module fan and the low speed battery module fan control relay. 18. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 19. Measure voltage between body ground and the battery module fan 2P connector terminal No.1. Is there battery voltage? YES- Substitute a known-good BCM module and the battery module fan, and recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away, replace the original BCM module and the battery module fan. NO- Check for: ^ A blown No. 24 IMA (7.5 A) fuse ^ A open in the wire between the No.24 IMA (7.5 A) fuse and the battery module fan. 20. Check the high speed battery module fan control relay. Is the relay OK? YES- Go to step 21. NO- Replace the battery module. 21. Disconnect the BCM module connector A (26P) and the high speed battery module fan control relay 4P connector. 22. Connect the high speed battery module fan control relay 4P connector terminal No. 3 and body ground with a jumper wire. Diagrams 118. Taillight Assembly, Left Or Right Page 6396 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. Performance Test Refrigerant: Testing and Inspection Performance Test CAUTION: - Air conditioning refrigerant or lubricant vapor can irritate your eyes, nose, or throat. - Be careful when connecting service equipment. - Do not breathe refrigerant or vapor. WARNING: - Compressed air mixed R-134a forms a combustible vapor. - The vapor can burn or explode causing serious injury. - Never use compressed air to pressure test R-134a service equipment or vehicle air conditioning systems. The performance test will help determine if the air conditioner system is operating within specifications. Use only service equipment that is U.L.-listed and is certified to meet the requirements of SAE J2210 to remove HFC-134a (R-134a) from the air conditioning system. If accidental system discharge occurs, ventilate work area before resuming service. R-134a service equipment or vehicle air conditioning systems should not be pressure tested or leak tested with compressed air. Additional health and safety information may be obtained from the refrigerant and lubricant manufacturers. 1. Connect a R-134a refrigerant recovery/recycling/ charging station to the high-pressure service port and the low-pressure service port, following the equipment manufacturer's instructions. 2. Insert a thermometer in the center air vent. Determine the relative humidity and air temperature. 3. Test conditions : - Avoid direct sunlight. - Open the hood. - Open the front doors. - Set the temperature control dial on MAX COOL, the mode control switch on VENT and the recirculation control switch on RECIRCULATE. - Turn the A/C switch on and the fan switch on MAX. - Run the engine at 1,500 rpm. - No driver or passengers in vehicle. 4. After running the air conditioning for 10 minutes under the above test conditions, read the delivery temperature from the thermometer in the dash vent, the intake temperature near the blower unit behind the glove box and the high and low system pressure from the A/C gauges. Page 1831 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Page 468 ECM/PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector A (32P) Part 2